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We set off by road for Glenmalure, one of the most beautiful spots in Eire. The roads were pretty wet but the sun was peeking through. As we climbed up into the clouds, we could see only occasional glimpses of the wonderful views, but we began to get an idea of where Fauna Cottage was, ringed by mountains banked with conifers, attended by sheep, deer, and a few cattle. There are lakes everywhere, and as the weather systems come over the mountains, clouds cling to them and precipitation forms before your eyes. If ever there was a place to witness all your geography lessons at once, this was it.

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We turned into the glen and started up the longest cul-de-sac in Eire. A couple of miles up, the road dipped and there was a 50 foot stretch of water ahead of us. John slowed the trusty diesel - but not enough - we hit the water which was surprisingly deep and a huge wave washed over the bonnet. The engine began to whine and sound alarmingly unlike a diesel, steam billowed out from back and front obscuring the view and the car stopped mid-water. John kept the revs up and somehow got us out of there, but lost a part of the car in the process, and loosened the front number plate so it was almost falling off.

The car took about 10 minutes to recover, but it did so to everyone's relief. Less than half a mile up the road we came to the ford which has to be crossed to access the deep valley. Sheer sides rose up all about us, dramatic, red, rocky.

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There was a memorial stone to the rebels of 1798, which we inspected, and we took five minutes to look around the place and relax after our hair-raising adventure.

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While we were there, a 40-tonne log lorry from up the valley crossed the ford with ease. We could see the force of the water over the wheels.

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There was no way we were going over the ford - the water was incredibly fierce, and it was obvious that even a car with four of us in it could be swept away, so we headed back.