I wish I could have been more adventurous when I was over in July. Unfortunately, I have the digestive tract of a 90 year old women and was warned not to eat at "strange places", off the side of roads, or indeed anything that had been washed but not cooked, eg. salads. Spent the entire week eating delicious rice dishes, but boy, was I constipated!!
Expat Mum - better to have suffered constipation than the other, opposite and much more frequent problem experienced by those with virgin tummies!
Graham there were definitely veggie options.
October 19, 2011 at 10:53 AM
David said...
Definetly i have to try this place, but im confuse about the location, its opposite Papaye, but which one? Osu one?, i know at least three Papayes in Accra.
That was the real deal, Chinese food at its best. Would love to try it. The only Chinese food I had in Ghana was in that fancy place in Osu on Oxford Road. Your experience is so much more fun.
I remember once finding a tiny hidden place like that in a town in Indonesia. There were 7 calendars on the wall, seven fans spread around, seven tables, one motor cycle in a corner. Very odd, very shabby, but the food was out of this world.
Holly, Hangzhou is just over an hour from where I live. We take our students there every year. It has a beautiful lake and is very scenic. I do wonder if the food is similar to the real thing! Either way...it is pretty cool!
Hello there! My name is Malte Zeeck, and I am with InterNations.org. I really enjoyed reading your fantastic blog! I think expats in Ghana and around the world could really gain some great insights and have a few good laughs on this page. The quality of the blog in general is very convincing, which is why I would love to feature you and your writing on the Recommended Blog on Ghana section on InterNations.org Not only do we feature and link to your blog prominently; we also would like to hear from you directly in our questionnaire! We have also designed a link badge for your blog. If you are interested, please feel free to contact me via email: maltezeeck@internations.org Best, Malte Zeeck
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It's been so long since I've ventured out, beyond the safe confines of my local french bakery and fancy french restaurant, it was time. Last night we took the plunge in a big way, following some brave friends to a Chinese spot, just around the corner from Papaye.
[Image]
Hangzhou Chinese Restaurant. Best Chinese food in a long long time - perhaps EVER! Now let me qualify this statement. This is not a raving review, wherein I intimate that you would take your most important business visitors to Hangzhou. I don't think they could handle it. Shame though, they'll miss the most amazing food.
We parked in a dark alley and walked into what looked like an old concrete house, through the window we could see we were going to be the only patrons. A small Chinese woman rushed over to welcome us and find us a table. Meanwhile we looked around at a room, painted a long time ago a dull non-descript colour - possibly oatmeal beige, which had long turned a brownish grey. The main features were dusty posters promoting China, Chinese food and various electronics. A huge crack cut one wall down the centre, threatening to collapse the building on top of us. A huge palm tree grew straight up through the corner of the room, the ceiling cut neatly around it to free the palm fronds somewhere above. On the centre wall was on old fashioned TV, showing a Chinese talent show. A small wooden chair was placed directly in front of the TV. This is where our host retreated to, between serving us.
[Image] Our table was covered with a plastic lining, printed in flowers and lines, faded and torn in parts. The menus bled photos of food into the writing, to create a pinky swirl of unreadable water colour art.
It turned out quite lucky there were photos, as our host and waitress and most likely proprietress all-in-one, could not speak any English. A question "How long has this place been open?" was met with a blank stare and pointing to the menu. We realised our interactions would have to be limited to fingers stabbed toward the menu photos and reassuring nods.
[Image]We lost our adventurous spirit when it came to the deep fried camel hump, but I loved the menu's offering of "chips and fired chickens"!!! (Just had to snap that!)
While our food was being made outside through the side door somewhere, we marveled at our surroundings and threw out wild assumptions about the restaurant and who (apart from us) ate here. Indentured labourers? Underground gangs? We wondered if we’d get sick, and other ethnocentricities… shame on us for sure.
[Image] The food arrived, the plates, one by one, huge portions, amazing smells… and then we ate. OMG. The food was amazing. A friend’s suggestion of cucumber plate was a great starter – fresh yet salty and addictive. Spring rolls were small and dainty and so different from the usual… Fried noodles with pork was a huge steaming plate of soba type silky noodles, veggies and small tasty bits of pork. Moreish all the way. Other plates followed, including shrimps with cashew – huge buttery but crunchy cashews and tender seasoned shrimps, and the pork dumplings – to die for…. Basically everything was great. We washed it all down with Ghana’s famous brews, Gulder and Star.
In the background our host was mesmerized by the couple singing the theme from the Titanic in Cantonese on TV. Only when we turned to watch too, the English subtitles showed lyrics that were definitely the invention of someone other than Celine Dion! “I am the honeybee, you are the flower” the petite female singer cooed, and was echoed by the bespeckled grinning guy.
It was a great ending to a delicious meal. It was only when the bill came that it got better. Or rather unbelievable. The whole feast, including all our drinks came to about GHC16 per head, or roughly $9.75.
Not sure how indicative of the real Hangzhou in Eastern China this place is, but it gave us a new found appreciation. I wonder if the woman misses home and what brought her to Ghana? There is a story behind all expats, and hers will be forever a mystery. I for one, am glad she came. If you find yourself in Accra and love good food, check out Hangzhou.
Afterwards, a lively night of drinking and dancing Ghana style awaits, just around the corner at Accra's biggest spot under the stars, opposite Papaye.
81 Comments
Close this window Jump to comment formI wish I could have been more adventurous when I was over in July. Unfortunately, I have the digestive tract of a 90 year old women and was warned not to eat at "strange places", off the side of roads, or indeed anything that had been washed but not cooked, eg. salads. Spent the entire week eating delicious rice dishes, but boy, was I constipated!!
October 17, 2011 at 2:48 PM
Can you remember any veggie options?
October 17, 2011 at 6:04 PM
Expat Mum - better to have suffered constipation than the other, opposite and much more frequent problem experienced by those with virgin tummies!
Graham there were definitely veggie options.
October 19, 2011 at 10:53 AM
Definetly i have to try this place, but im confuse about the location, its opposite Papaye, but which one? Osu one?, i know at least three Papayes in Accra.
October 22, 2011 at 12:43 PM
That was the real deal, Chinese food at its best. Would love to try it. The only Chinese food I had in Ghana was in that fancy place in Osu on Oxford Road. Your experience is so much more fun.
I remember once finding a tiny hidden place like that in a town in Indonesia. There were 7 calendars on the wall, seven fans spread around, seven tables, one motor cycle in a corner. Very odd, very shabby, but the food was out of this world.
October 30, 2011 at 1:04 AM
an interesting review
Write more thank you
November 5, 2011 at 6:26 PM
I love finding eateries like this Chinese place. Genuine good food knocks spots off fancy decor.
November 7, 2011 at 3:53 PM
thanks! cape coast doesnt have quite the same variety as accra - will have to check it out next time i'm on oxford street. maybe this weekend :)
November 10, 2011 at 2:35 PM
Holly, Hangzhou is just over an hour from where I live. We take our students there every year. It has a beautiful lake and is very scenic. I do wonder if the food is similar to the real thing! Either way...it is pretty cool!
November 19, 2011 at 12:46 PM
BTW Gracelandwest is Randy...I should have signed him out before i made a comment! Tracey
November 19, 2011 at 12:47 PM
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