Hi Bo, my scanner is my densitometer. Vuescan can show the densities moving the mouse and pressing the control button. Scan as 8 bit grey and there you are.
At f/1.4 you have to decide where to put the focus on ;-)
I've always wondered, what effect does overfixing have? I've heard people mention to be careful not to overfix a few times. I vary my fixing times from 10 mins to 45mins, depending on whats on the telly and when they have their ad breaks and I don't think it's had any major effect that I can see...
45 minutes with regular strength fixer? I would never ever do that.
Those technical (micro) films have a very thin emulsion and can be overfixed. With 35 mm film I always(!) do a clearing test. It's no additional effort at all besides a small mug for the snippet from the film leader. It makes sure that do a proper fixing for archival purpose and not to overfix at the same time. And if the clearing time increases noticeable, you know it's time to mix new fixer.
January 14, 2015 at 10:06 PM
Inspired by a discussion on a german board I made a new test with the Kodak Technical Pan in Caffenol-C-L, compared with older results of Rodinal. The film was exposed @ EI 25, developed in Caffenol-C-L with 0.1 g/l pot. bromide, 11 minutes 20°C, constant agitation for the first 30 seconds, then 3 turns every minute.
No presoak here. I recommend using destilled or demin. water, the thin emulsion is very sensitive for spots. Check if your fixer is clean! And make a clearing test, fix for double clearing time, not longer, you can overfix these films quite easy. Here I fixed for 1 minute total with my regular strength fixer. Development was perfectly even, so I guess there is no need at all to use pot. bromide and maybe get a little bit more speed. After development I made 3 intermediate rinses (tap water this time) with shaky agitation to reduce possible spots. The final rinse was again made with demin water and the film carefully wiped with a V-folded paper tissue.
As you can see, the real speed is like ISO 20, with both developers Rodinal and C-C-L. But the red Rodinal curve is more contrasty. The blue C-C-L curve is better suitable for wet prints. Quite a nice result for a film that is said to be very difficult to handle, isn't it?
On my walk to do the test shots I met 4 young photographers and they were eager models for the test. Thank you very much, guys. I exposed @ EI 25, short before dawn I shot with 1/30 and f/1.4.
Happy developings - Reinhold
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posted by imagesfrugales at 9:08 PM on Jan 4, 2015
4 Comments
Close this window Jump to comment formWow, you have a densitometer? I wish I could be as thorough as you Reinhold, great work with the zones!
ps. funny how the focus in your pics always seem to be on the girls.. :) ;)
Best,
Bo
January 6, 2015 at 6:02 AM
Hi Bo, my scanner is my densitometer. Vuescan can show the densities moving the mouse and pressing the control button. Scan as 8 bit grey and there you are.
At f/1.4 you have to decide where to put the focus on ;-)
January 6, 2015 at 11:51 AM
I've always wondered, what effect does overfixing have? I've heard people mention to be careful not to overfix a few times. I vary my fixing times from 10 mins to 45mins, depending on whats on the telly and when they have their ad breaks and I don't think it's had any major effect that I can see...
January 13, 2015 at 8:11 AM
45 minutes with regular strength fixer? I would never ever do that.
Those technical (micro) films have a very thin emulsion and can be overfixed. With 35 mm film I always(!) do a clearing test. It's no additional effort at all besides a small mug for the snippet from the film leader. It makes sure that do a proper fixing for archival purpose and not to overfix at the same time. And if the clearing time increases noticeable, you know it's time to mix new fixer.
January 14, 2015 at 10:06 PM