The Nocturnal Novelist

Cape Town Harbor

2008-08-19T10:17:00.000-07:00

With the mesmerizing ocean at center stage and the majestic Table Mountain as the backdrop, Cape Town's Waterfront is a magical place. Even though August is known as South Africa's wet & windy winter, it felt so good to just sit under the sun and watch the yachts float by. There is a small white bridge near the Clock Tower that lets pedestrians cross the small channel to Quay 4. The bridge swings off to the right every time a large ship wants to pass through, and then returns into place for pedestrians.

Cape Town: Music at the Waterfront

2008-08-10T01:31:00.001-07:00

Steel Drum Band

Electric Gas-Can Guitar

Thanks for not losing it, but...

2008-08-09T14:31:00.000-07:00

I have only one question to ask of Cape Town International Airport:

How does an airport lose not my luggage.... but the wheels of my luggage?

A just-over-the-weight-limit luggage bag without ANY wheels is not the best way to start off of your travels! Yikes.. I better keep my mouth shut because I still have the return trip to worry about! My luggage is already so tattered as it is. Sure the Samsonite label is all but melting away, and the front zipper has completely stopped working for the small front pocket, and the black nylon looks, well, it's seen better days ... but at least I could be thankful that it had wheels!

I had already been warned about this second largest airport in South Africa "rifling" through checked luggage, but what the heck could have happened on the runway to totally rip those wheels right off? I don't even want to think about it.

Other than the wheel debacle, the Cape Town airport was a breeze and only 20 km from the city center. Not bad after a 16 hour flight from London!

I see London, I see France...

2008-07-15T15:58:00.000-07:00

Stunning blue waters. Palm tree-lined boulevards. Butter-yellow buildings with almond-green shutters. And endless raspberry tarts. I must be in France!

My long holiday in Nice, France sure melted away the stress and worries of busy London! I had a wonderful time there exploring the city and enjoying the sunshine. It was quite an emotional, surreal experience finally seeing the neighborhood "La Madeleine" where my mom, Jacqueline, spent her childhood and where five generations of our family go back. All I really had as a starting point was a dusty old photo album and so I felt like a detective exploring Nice and trying to match up areas and landmarks I came across with these very old photos. I finally could see the setting for all those family stories I heard from my Mom and grandparents. It was the trip of a lifetime for me and the perfect way to spend my birthday on the 5th!

My Top 5 Favorite Things to do in London

2008-06-27T12:21:00.000-07:00

Now that it has been officially six months since I've first moved to London, I'll be honest and say that the incessant noise and stressful, frantic pace of London gets to me sometimes... well, more than sometimes. Just about all the time, really.

But luckily, I found a few favorite places that I enjoy so much here that I can forget all about it and escape... even if it's only for a moment.

1. A weekend afternoon at Borough Market
If there's one thing that can make me feel better, it's food. Located just south of the River Thames, near the London Bridge Station, this outdoor market is HUGE. Fresh produce abound, and so does every tasty delicacy you can imagine. Thursdays are quiet and Fridays and Saturdays are positively bustling. Best of all, the stand-owners and shop-keeps are immensely knowledgeable and usually quite excited to discuss their specialty items with you. I always come back with delicious cheeses and French Sea Salt and an amazing box of whole black peppercorns that I swear smells like spicy rose petals. Bonus: there's plenty of BBQ so my husband is always excited to accompany me.

2. A picnic in Regents Park
Although this gorgeous, well-maintained park is so huge that I get tired just thinking about walking through all of it, this one makes my list for a top place for an impromptu picnic. My favorite spot is in under a tree, right in front of the winding river where dozens of white swans drift ever so elegantly along the water. Just add a fresh baguette, some Milano Salami, creamy blue cheese and a bottle of red wine and you have yourself a perfect picnic for two. Once that summer breeze starts to blow through the tree branches above, you can't help but lay back on your blanket and fall asleep.

3. Night out at the Duke of Cambridge.
There's nothing quite like a night out with your favorite girlfriends at your local Organic Pub. This one in Islington is nothing short of fantastic as a regular spot simply because the entire menu changes weekly! The only problem is if you fall in love with a dish... because it might not be there the next week (I'm looking at you, pot-of-chocolate dessert!). The vibe is very laid back with (gasp!) plenty of room. Dozens of huge wooden tables fill the space making it a perfect place for conversations and uncontrollable laughter with friends. Isn't that the best therapy? I'm also very pleased that organic white wine doesn't give me the slightest headache at all.

4. A sunny afternoon at the Narrow Boat
Yes, it rains a lot in London. Okay, it rains all the time. But once in a while, there will be a stunningly gorgeous afternoon that is filled with sunshine. But those moments can be fleeting and so I've learned what other Londoners have learned: when it's sunny, take advantage of it, because it won't last. And so if it's sunny I love to head over to the tiny little riverside restaurant, The Narrow Boat. Set right beside the canal, the view of the sun through the trees is downright therapeutic when you can grab a table in the patio.

5. A stroll through Camden Passage
Living on a busy main street definitely has its drawbacks: 24-hour double-decker buses that make the ground tremble, a mass of very-quick walking people that fill the entire sidewalk, terrible traffic noise of angry honks and screeching brakes. If it weren't for the quaint little network of side alley called Camden Passage to detour my walk home, I'd go mad altogether. Camden Passage is usually quiet, lined with cobblestone and filled with lovely shops and cafes, but it's also home to a village of antique dealers (the rarest tea cups and lithographs in all of England, perhaps). My favorite is the man who always sells antique jewelry right beside his collection of horrifyingly old, yellowed dentures in a silver dish. This antique market is deliciously odd but the perfect detour and the even more perfect escape.

Upcoming Trips

2008-06-26T02:29:00.000-07:00

July: Nice, France
August: Cape Town, South Africa
September: Bruges, Belgium

I'm hoping I'll be able to squeeze Basel, Switzerland in there too, but I'm not sure just yet. Keeping my fingers crossed!

What Do You Mean, a "Feet Festival?"

2008-06-26T01:49:00.000-07:00

I just returned from a short holiday in the beautiful village-town of Lanshut, Germany. It was absolutely gorgeous. After reaching the six-month mark of living in the frantic city of London, it was definitely a welcome and much needed change. Lanshut rests near the Mosel River and is surrounded by endless rolling hills dotted with vineyards and evergreens. It felt so good to hear nothing but the still quiet of nature. I already miss it!

My visit coincided with their annual "Viez" Festival on Saturday night. Pronounced "feets", Viez is their local apple wine and tastes like a very tart apple cider. There's also plenty of music and curry-bratwurst! For just three Euros, I got a glass and entry into the huge open grassy area, completely surrounded by thick, deer-filled forests. I then navigated my way through the dozen giant, competing bonfires that blazed under the stars. With the entire town in attendance, the festival began at sundown and continued on well past morning . The Viez bar is in the center and bigger groups ordered their Viez in large plastic watering cans that your neighbor might use to water her roses. The festival got much rowdier as the night went on, but for the most part everyone was in very good spirits.

"Prost!"

Back Across the Pond

2008-05-20T14:18:00.000-07:00

My visit to the States was wonderful... but it does feel a little strange to have left it again for London. Still, my Islington flat is starting to finally feel like home. I think a lot has to do with the sun actually beginning to shine in England! Thank goodness for Spring. One more dark day of winter and I probably would have just stayed in bed.

Dear Isabelle on NPR!

2008-05-08T09:24:00.000-07:00

I just found out that I will be getting interviewed on
NPR on this Friday, May 9th at 10:30a-11a.
I will be in the studio discussing Dear Isabelle with
Michael on KNPR-FM, Las Vegas (88.9).

If you're not in the Las Vegas area, you can listen live
on the web at http://www.knpr.org/index.cfm

Tune in!

From London to Vegas... Did Isabelle Have a Gambling Addiction to Boot?

2008-05-03T15:47:00.000-07:00

Final dates for my upcoming book signings for Dear Isabelle in Las Vegas:

Friday, May 9th : 5-7 p.m., Cheesecake and Crime, Mystery bookshop and cheesecake joint, 10545 S. Eastern Ave. #100, Henderson, Nevada.

Saturday, May 10th: 2-4 p.m., Borders at Summerlin Charleston, 10950 W. Charleston Boulevard, Las Vegas, Nevada.

I will be doing readings of the novel and a signing afterwards. Hope to see you there!

English Sunset

2008-04-29T15:37:00.001-07:00

Sunset in Islington neighborhood of London, taken just after the rains had stopped... and just before they started up again.

It's Not Easy Being Green

2008-04-28T12:26:00.000-07:00

Despite the ten kinds of rain that fell from the sky this weekend, Spring has arrived in London! Finally! Sure, it's the very last days of April... but better late than never. The best part is that Islington Green is actually beginning to look... well, green. This picture was taken from the living room window of my flat in Islington. I love the juxtaposition of the brave tree in the forefront, who is boldly embracing Spring, against the bare, wintry branches in the background.

note: click on the image to enlarge it. A funny little bird's nest is in the top left corner.

Peace Without Quiet

2008-04-18T01:45:00.000-07:00

In this week's New York Times, one headline in particular caught my attention: "A City Where You Can’t Hear Yourself Scream". Immediately I thought of Cairo, Egypt.

And I was right. The article cites a study done by the National Research Center that spent five years measuring noise levels throughout the city of Cairo. Their conclusion? "...the average noise from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. is 85 decibels, a bit louder than a freight train 15 feet away."

85 decibels? Oh, I believe it. With 18 million people all crammed together, this city indeed makes a lot noise. The most constant offenders are car horns. When I first visited Cairo, I was quite uneasy with the amount horn honking we encountered on a simple drive to a museum. It never stopped. We were always receiving blaring series of honks from other cars. And when we weren't-- our driver was doing the honking. It took me a couple days to realize that the intent behind all the incessant honking doesn't mirror that of New York or even Los Angeles, where honking is clearly done to express anger or discontent at other cars.

Cairo is different.

Locals tend not to ever use their turn indicators when making any lane changes or turns. Instead they just honk. Everyone there is quite comfortable with it. Passing a car? Just honk at them. Turning left? Honk away! Turning right? Honk, and honk again if no one heard you. Honking in Cairo is basically the equivalent of letting everyone on the road know, "Here I am! I'm coming!". But it isn't just one car. With over 2 million cars on the roads in Cairo, it is every single car on every road, in every traffic jam, on every commute. Car horns honk in unified alarm throughout the entire city for the entire day, well near midnight.

It's the sort of noise that doesn't soften when you close the windows or shut the door. It just is part of the Cairo background. All you can do, really, is turn on some other noise to help drown it out. Like turning on the radio or TV at a decent level.

The NY Times article also noted that often the noise reached levels higher than 85-- often 95, which is the same level noise a jackhammer reaches.

That was the word that took me back to Cairo as I read through it. "Jackhammer." It is the perfect word to capture the jarring, unceasing, maddening level of noise in Cairo. It just gnaws away at you, to your core. And all you can do is either hold your hands tight over your ears and frown or, you can what the Caironese do: You can cheerfully accept the noise as life. You will never, ever hear an Egyptian in Cairo complain about the noise. They just talk louder and louder until everyone is practically shouting to each other on the street.

Life makes noise! After all, there will be more than enough silence afterwards.

London Book Fair at Earl Court

2008-04-16T08:34:00.001-07:00

... taken from the window inside the tube station

....inside the fair

The London Book Fair is in town! I checked it out and learned quite a lot about the publishing industry in the UK. The most interesting booth I came across was actually found on my way towards the exit-- Book Aid International.

I learned that Book Aid International sends "over half a million books to developing countries (mainly in Sub-Saharan Africa) each year" to promote literacy in poverty-stricken countries. They send everything from fiction and nonfiction, how-to manuals and children's books. It is a wonderful program that tackles an issue not often talked about.

Check them out at www.bookaid.org

It rained, it poured... it hailed. It was the London Marathon!

2008-04-14T05:55:00.000-07:00

Feels a bit strange to be back in England after two weeks in Egypt. For some reason (one that is thoroughly unwarranted) I expected the weather here to be all birds and sunshine and everything that is Spring when we returned. Boy, was I wrong. Not only did it snow while we were gone, but it snowed on our first day back! This is by far the coldest, most unruly and unpredictable Spring I have ever experienced. In fact, it's downright schizophrenic!

But not even bad weather could ruin the big charity event of the year...

Yesterday was the London Marathon! Spanning 26 miles, there were lots of hilarious costumes and incredible athletic ability to behold!

The marathon was quite an experience. The runners had to fare in sun, rain and even hail... all on the way to the finish line. I watched from the London Tower, first near the 11-mile mark and then near the 20-mile mark.

I was there supporting my good friend Jaimie who was running on behalf of the charity "Refuge", which provides much needed help for women and children who are victims of domestic abuse. More info can be found at www.refuge.org.uk.

Don't Smile in a Sandstorm... Unless You Want Sand in Your Teeth

2008-04-10T07:36:00.001-07:00

And what would a Springtime trip to Cairo be without the grand sandstorm that makes everyone want to stay indoors for the entire day? This is the storm that ruined many a football game that day. You could barely see across the River Nile during that storm... the camera was able to find a little more contrast than our eyes could.

And By Day....

2008-04-09T12:23:00.000-07:00

The River Nile, shot from the "26th of July Bridge" into Zamalek neighborhood

The River Nile.... At Night

2008-04-09T12:15:00.000-07:00

I still can't believe that my hotel room in Cairo overlooks the stunning River Nile. There is nothing in the world quite like it. There is something magical about this river at night... the way the city lights play off the water's surface... it just comes alive.

Cairo, Up Close

2008-04-09T01:41:00.000-07:00

* remember to click on the images to make them bigger. some of the best details can only be seen when you enlarge the image.

Fathi Salama!

2008-04-07T03:06:00.000-07:00

So far, the city of Cairo has been even more wonderful that I had remembered it. On Saturday I was invited by my new friend Shymaa to the Cairo Opera House on Gezira Island to watch Fathi Salama and his band, Sharkiat. What an amazing experience. Fathi Salama is a famous pianist and Egyptian composer (a musical genius and jazz prodigy, really!) and the music was incredible. The entire theater was filled with his loyal fans from all over the world, thanks in part to his recent European and Japanese tours. And I can certainly see why! His music really captures the mysterious essence that infuses all of Egypt, while blending it together with French jazz, American blues and even Oriental sounds. The effect is mesmerizing and highly entertaining. You may just look like you are sitting in your seat, but simultaneously elegant and primitive sounds carry you far, far away.

I absolutely loved it.

..............KFJC Interview Update...............

2008-04-02T08:56:00.000-07:00

My interview with Ann Arbor on KFJC in the SF Bay Area, California will now be next week at

Wednesday, April 9th, 7:45am

She will do a second reading of Dear Isabelle right before the interview.

I'm so glad I'm able to listen to KFJC online even though I'm in Egypt. Ann did a such great job with the reading today! It was the first time I had ever heard someone's voice other than my own read my book. I loved her British accent for James!!!

A very, very special thank-you to Ian Whitaker for his beautiful music he played on the piano. It created such a mysterious, wonderful background for Ann's reading of D.I.! It really made the story come alive. I was really touched. And Ann was quite right about the story of the piano. Ian's father, Bruce, bought that piano from me right before I left for London. I loved that piano and was so sad to part with it! It was a mahogany Hamilton Upright Grand that dated back to 1900. And it was utterly gorgeous!

But it also weighed a zillion tons and my husband said, "There's no way we're taking that monster to England." He must have remembered the agony and uncertainty when we first moved it in to our Belmont apartment! Four strong boys came out bruised and nearly destroyed that day, vowing "Never again!" along with, "You better play this thing every day after what we went through." I contend it was worth it. It gave such a rich, almost haunting tone when played... no other piano has ever sounded quite like it. But David was right. There was no way we could take it to our tiny London flat (3rd floor with nothing but narrow, winded stairs leading to our door.... ouch!)

And so, we put in an ad on Craigslist and was hoping for a nice family to come and love it, despite it's missing key faces here and there and all the scratches and bruises it had earned over the years.

Lo and behold, just a week before we left for England, Mr. Whitaker and his wife come in through the door telling me they want to give their talented son a surprise for Christmas: the piano that he always asked for. Upon leaving, Mrs. Whitaker kindly tells me that her husband Bruce (AKA "Skokiaan Guy" knows someone who might just like to read Dear Isabelle... Ann Arbor on KFJC.
And now it's five months later and I heard my beloved piano on the radio, accompanying the reading of my first novel. Thank-you, Ian!

And what time is that in Egypt?

2008-03-27T17:59:00.000-07:00

Big news! I will be on the wonderful Ann Arbor Show on KFJC (out of Los Altos Hills, CA) on Wednesday, April 3rd, bright and early at 7:45 am PST. After the interview, Ann will be giving 4 twenty-minute readings of Dear Isabelle on air.

I will actually be in Cairo, Egypt from March 30th until April 10th, so I will be calling in from my hotel in Zamalek!

If you're not in the San Francisco Bay Area, then check out KFJC over the web:
http://www.kfjc.org/netcast/index.php

Because Every Crime Should Have Cheesecake

2008-03-27T17:39:00.000-07:00

Just a super quick but very important update: I will be doing another reading/signing for Dear Isabelle right before the Borders date.

The address: Cheesecake & Crime (Mystery Book Shop & Cheesecake Joint), 10545 S Eastern Avenue, #100, Henderson, NV

The date/time: Friday, May 9 at 5 p.m.

I absolutely adore bookshops devoted to mystery - and homemade cheesecake makes it all the more delicious! Such a clever idea. I can't wait to check it out.

Does the Borders in Vegas have a casino?

2008-03-02T17:46:00.000-08:00

I'll be back in the States for a couple weeks in May to visit family and friends who are constantly wondering if I will return with a fake British accent a la Madonna. No worries - I still sound American as ever. My accent definitely doesn't pass for a local here either. Words like "totally" and "awesome" are dead giveaways for Yanks here... which I never really said much before coming to England. It's almost as if I've become more American once I left America.

Or maybe I'm just homesick.

Either way, another signing is on the way!

I will be doing a reading of Dear Isabelle on May 10th at the huge Borders in Las Vegas, Nevada, located on W. Charleston. This will be my first signing ever in Vegas!

After that, I'm renting a car and driving that long 4-hour drive to Bakersfield for a few days to reassure my family that I'm still alive and kicking. Can't wait to see my nephews and nieces and I'm desperately hoping they aren't taller than me yet.

Going back to Cairo

2008-03-01T07:17:00.000-08:00

I'm very, VERY excited because I just learned that my husband and I will be returning to Cairo, Egypt in a few weeks. I first traveled to Egypt year and I had such an amazing experience that I couldn't wait to go back. Whenever I visit a new country, I always try to always read a novel that is set there. During my travels to Cairo and Alexandria, I had such a great time reading Naguib Mahfouz. The people of Cairo absolutely adore him and now I can really see why. His writing captures the city of Cairo with such honesty and dignity -- an unusual combination -- that you can't help fall in love with Egypt as you turn the pages. I recommend The Thief and the Dogs - a quick, but very rewarding read, for anyone traveling to Egypt. I also recommend Children of the Alley as well-- a longer read more suitable for long bouts of time such as waiting in Cairo's insanely chaotic airport for your flight.

p.s. I almost forgot! An indispensable guide for getting around Egypt was The Rough Guide to Egypt 6 (Rough Guide Travel Guides) by Dan Richardson. The author gives quite an honest look at what to love about Egypt and what to really keep your distance from (I'm looking at you, scamming touts, in front of the Egyptian Museum!). This guide really prepares you for the trip and helps you experience far more than what the typical tourist sees. I also used this guide when I took the train into Alexandria-- again very helpful, especially with cafe and restaurant recommendations.