Mexico Musing

Mexican Economic Woes Highlighted

2009-05-03T09:57:00.000-07:00

As I posited in my post from last week Mexico is taking a heavy third blow from the swine flu hysteria - with the US media, particularly the US cable TV networks, fanning the flames. Two articles in the more reasoned reportage of the print media have touched on these aspects. One headlined locally "Some see media flu coverage as overblown" and it does seem a bit unfair as I read recently the US recorded something like 13,000 flu deaths (another website cites 20K annually) last year from "normal" seasonal flu outbreaks. It is interesting to note that absolutely no swine flu cases have been reported in any of Mexico's most popular resort destinations, such as Los Cabos, Cancun, Puerto Vallarta, and Acapulco (a popular spot for weekend vacations from Mexican City). The other article highlighted the continuing impacts to Mexico's economy recent events have had (along with the damaging media coverage).

That article, by San Francisco Chronicle reporter Carolyn Lochhead, while focusing on the current hits that Mexico's economy is/has been taking (and how that impact will magnify an already reeling lower class) also emphasized the tremendous strides that Mexico has taken in the last 20 years. It noted the percentage of citizens deemed to live in extreme poverty has declined from 18.6% in 1990 to 9% in 2006 (I suspect though a reversal in that trend this year).

Another aspect that was cited as having a decided economic impact on Mexicans was the decline in remittances sent home by immigrants (legal and illegal) to relatives in Mexico - however, not mentioned, but somewhat mitigating is the change in in currency values - the exchange rate a year ago was around 10.5 to 1, as of today, it stood at 13.8 pesos to the dollar.

Perhaps a little more sanity (and sensitivity) would go a long way in aiding one of our most important trading partners in this time of great stress for both countries.

Is Swine Flu Killing Mexican Tourism ?

2009-04-29T19:48:00.000-07:00

- or is it a Great Time to Go?

Mexican tourism, already in a funk because of the the depressed world economy and spiraling narco killings, has been dealt a devastating third blow with the outbreak of the swine flu.

A Yahoo! News article today reports virtually empty planes from Miami and beaches in Cancun. The Mexican central bank had predicted a 4.8% contraction in the Mexican economy this before the outbreak. No telling how much it will shrivel now and how severe the impacts will be to the tourist industry.

The peso, already at a bargain exchange rate of 13 to one earlier in the month (I was a beneficiary of that to a degree in a recent trip to La Paz and San Jose del Cabo, was at 14 to one on 4/27.

So some would argue it's a great time to travel there, me among them - it's just a question of managing risk. What are good destinations? Los Cabo, for one, the standard of living there is already high, they have a proactive state government (Baja California Sur) that has already made impressive shows of force to counteract any perception the the narco-mafiosos have made any inroads there or can operate with impunity. Airfares are dropping, and even lodgings that priced in dollars are willing to negotiate (worked for me - I managed to get a suite with kitchen for the price of a small double).

Other areas to consider would be Nayarit and Western Jalisco, both accessible from Puerto Vallarta. Similar to the stock market, when everyone's selling it's often a good time to buy.

Good Gringos and Bad Gringos

2009-04-19T06:09:00.000-07:00

Most Americans believe that being referred to as a "gringo" is meant strictly as a derogatory term. This isn't necessarily true. There can be "good" gringos and "bad" gringos to a Mexican (or other Latin American - be aware that Mexicans think of themselves as Norte Americanos). The term gringo dates back nearly two hundred years, to the Mexican-American war - there a number of theories for the origin of gringo, from the color of the jackets worn by US troops, to Irish-Catholic deserters who joined forces with the Mexicans and sang a song called "Green Grow the Lillacs" and to one about a US railroad builder urging the Mexican engine drivers to "Green-Go" at signals. All are discussed in depth in Wikipedia.

Whatever the origin, there is also much debate as to how pejorative or derogatory the word is - with context obviously making the strongest case for how its meaning should be interpreted. A recent article (Spring 2009) in a local Los Cabos magazine called Destinos (www.destinomagazines.com) discussed just that concept posited above - the "good" gringo. Here I've paraphrased some of the 23 aspects of being a "good" gringo that author J. Michael Sullivan made in the article entitled "Good Gringo? Si or No".

Learn some Spanish - then use it.
Don’t insist America is the best and/or the center of the universe.
Know that Mexicans are also North Americans.
Don't lose your cool when dealing when things don't go like you'd expect them to in the states (government, customer service).
Be friendly, warm, sincere - always.
Know that it's an honor to be introduced and meet the members of a Mexican family and be invited into their homes.
Give your tips to your workers with the phrases “por cerveza” or “por sus ninos,” or for beer or for your children.
Acknowledge that you tell Mexicans to arrive at 6 PM but be cool when they arrive at 7 PM.
Realize that, for Mexicans, it’s considered rude to say no to an invitation even if they have no intention of showing up. Later you say that they were missed.
Go with the flow when driving, knowing that, somehow, it all works.
Understand how helpful Mexicans are, even if it takes a half dozen eight guys a half hour before the action plan hatches.
Figure out that Mexicans see their history going back several thousand years.
Be entertained, not annoyed, that all documents have to have three official stamps. Wap, wap, wap.
Be alert to, and respectful of, the status and power issues among Mexican social classes, even if you don’t agree with them.
And one my favorites: adopt a Zen-like attitude when you hear “manana".

All that said, one hopes that there many more good gingos (or gringas) out there than bad ones.

Lunch in San Jose del Cabo

2009-04-14T19:10:00.000-07:00

At last time to spend blogging - it's been 7 months of serious work and Mexico Musing neglect - not that I haven't been thniking about being in Mexsico. Spending another week at the Esperanza resort on Los Cabo's corridor - one of the premier resorts in Mexico. We are fortunate enough to have friends that never seem to tire of our company - this is our 6th visit. Most trips to Esperanza we've managed to get in a few days in real world Mexico in the Cabo area and this trip is no exception. A return trip to La Paz is on tap.
Today saw us take a lunch visit to San Jose del Cabo, the older, quainter and frankly more appealing of the dos cabos. We tried to find a Taco place called Guacamayas but were unsuccessful - instead we went to "el centro" and checked out the newly remodeled and expanded zocalo - they did a nice job - it includes a large civic monument with bronze busts of past Mexican heroes. Two streets, one on the west side of the plaza and other in front of the municipal building has created a larger and more expansive space.

We poked around looking for a place to eat, remembering a sweet cafe from a previous stay in San Jose called Tulipan but finding it closed. We then moseyed over to Calle Obregon to a restaurant that had received good reviews on Trip Advisor called Salsitas. As we had a rental car to return, we were unfashionably early even by Gringo standards and were the first customers. Decorated in clean and classic Mexcian rustic , we were warmly greeted and sat in pleasant window location open to the street. My wife Eva has a knack for picking out the unusual (and uncannily delicious) menus items and today was no exception - Fish Tacos on Jicama tortillas. I hedged my bets and made one of my three tacos a carne asada. Chips and four salsas, including a rojo served warm, arrived in moments and already we were salivating, as I slurped one of the best horchatas (rice milk flavored with cinnamon) I've ever put to mis bocas (lips).

What arrived next was truly stunning visually. We'd assumed that jicama tortillas meant flour version made with jicama - instead each "tortilla" was a paper thin slice of jicama six inches in diameter, artfully arranged - the moist and tender grilled white fish was smothered with thinly chopped white cabbage and drizzled with a slightly sweet red sauce of unknown origin. These tacos were divine - the rather ordinary carne asada "back-up" I had ordered was a pale (and stupid) substitute. It was a truly satisfying almuerzo.

Salsitas, Calle Obregon, San Jose del Cabo

Learning Spanish in Guanajuato

2009-02-01T19:40:00.000-08:00

For quite some time Guanajuato has been high on on my list of places to visit next in Mexico and a recent article in our local paper help reinforce my desire. What makes it so attractive? I guess it's the many diverse cultural aspects, a long and colorful history, the fact it has a very old (1732)university (with 20K students in town of 80K), and at one time the extensive network of mines produced 70% of the world's silver. Guanajuato is also the birthplace of artist Diego Rivera, and commemorates that with a museum dedicated to the artist.

According to Wikipedia the Spanish name "Guanajuato" derives from P'urhépecha Quanaxhuato , meaning "Hill of Frogs".

The city has an intimate feel provided by the many passageways, called callejones, that wind up the hillsides. Much of the auto traffic runs under the town in former mining tunnels.

What captivated me about the article, entitled Mexico's Hidden City, was the reason for the author, Molly Baker, to take the trip - enrolling in a Spanish immersion school for a four week stint - exactly what I envision for my own trip to Guanajuato. Now to find those four weeks...

Mexico Travel Maps

2009-01-13T17:54:00.000-08:00

When planning your next trip to Mexico, if you're doing any driving, you should do as much research as possible about road conditions, political unrest, drug wars etc.

I've discovered a website that has some very good information on travel routes in Mexico www.milebymile.com utilizing Google Earth - not a lot of routes are mapped yet - basically two sets: Northern Mexico with 14 and Southern Mexico (15) routes. Lot's of good photos, and many of the routes are mapped with Google Earth, so you can get a good idea of the landscape and character of the towns and villages you're interested in by clicking on photos that GE users have uploaded. Definitely a resource to to be used for your next driving trip.

El Dia de Los Muetos

2008-11-06T07:50:00.001-08:00

In many cultures around the world, people feel the very human need to honor and remember their ancestors and important events from the past. El Dia de los Muertos (aka Day of the Dead) and the Roman Catholic All Saints or All Souls Day are two of the most popular celebrations that honor the dead in Mexico. The focus of these holidays is on prayer and remembrance of friends and family who have died. Entire families participate in the typical traditions that include building private altars honoring the departed and visiting the graves of the deceased.

For Mexicans expressing these connections with those that have departed are humorous rather than morbid. Throughout Mexico, and especially in Michoacán cemeteries are fearful places but an occasion for a family gathering. Often spending the night by candlelight, extended family groups pray, reminisce, sing, and feast on delicious homemade delights, frequently enjoying many of the departed's favorite meals.

I recently spent a Halloween weekend on the Northern California coast and was privileged to attend a Dia de los Muertos celebration that took place at the Gualala Arts Center. Many beautiful and fascinating shrines were present and I spent some magical moments examining these complex and touching homages to loved ones across the great divide.

Exploring Remote Baja: Cave Paintings and Old California Culture

2008-08-19T10:21:00.000-07:00

There is a treasure trove of cultural history hidden in Baja's Sierra San Francisco: isolated ranches, a thriving cowboy lifestyle, and centuries-old rock art sites with extraordinary paintings of animals.

Exploring Remote Baja: Cave Paintings and Old California Culture
9/2/2008 7:00 PM

Tonight, Baja resident Trudi Angell, mule packer and founder of Paddling South?outfitter for REI Adventures, will introduce you to Baja?s rich cowboy culture with a screening of the documentary film she co-produced last year, Corazón Vaquero (The Heart of the Cowboy). Following the film, she?ll share slides and information on hiking/riding pack animals into Baja?s remote canyons to visit the remarkable cave paintings of Cueva El Palmarito, Cueva Pintada and Cueva de Las Flechas.

* Location:REI Concord, CA
* Contact:REI Concord Customer Service at 925-825-9400
* Cost: Free

Also check out The Cave Paintings of Baja

A Mexican Exotic - El Mastretta MXT

2008-08-01T09:20:00.000-07:00

This aggressive looking coupe debuted at the Mexico City Auto Show in December. Mastretta Design has produced Mexico's first home-grown sports car with deeply sculpted, energetic stance. Mastretta is involved with all sorts design and manufacturing, ranging from bottles to buses and had produced a VW Bettle based sports kit-car called the MXB. This latest model is dubbed the MXT (for Mastretta MeXico Transverse). Like expensive exotic cars from Europe the body structure is bonded aluminum and the power train is a transversely mounted 2.3 liter Ford Duratec unit making 200 HP. First year production is targeted at 150 units per year with the first units going on sale in the UK shortly at a rumored list price of £32,999.
Exports to the US are planned, with a price of $55,000. Mexican pricing looks to be around $500,000 pesos.

Mexico's Best Zocalo?

2008-05-31T07:14:00.000-07:00

The Zocalo (or zócalo, a town plaza) is a central (and crucial) feature of every town and city in Mexico. It is literally where it's happening - the focal point for both organized and casual social activity. Most Mexicans take great pride in their zocalo, and it is often the best kept area of town. Warm evenings will find vendors of every sort, clusters of young adults flirting and strutting, venerated Dons and Donas holding court at their exclusive benches, small children racing around

Every town's zacalo is characterized by its own distinctive meeting area - and of course, large cities will have numerous plazas, many of which might have a unique architectural aspect or singularly beautiful garden (jardin). The focal point might be a bandstand (as in Oaxaca) or a fountain (like Puebla), it might be in the layout of the paths crisscrossing the square, perhaps interspersed with trees, or it might be a vast open space dominated by the imposing edifices that surround the perimeter (as in Mexico City's main plaza, the Plaza de la Constitucion).

So where in Mexico exist the best zocalos? As is most of the cases beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and arguments can be made for numerous stellar candidates among the hundreds that might be put forth. Perhaps the most famous is Mexico City's, because of it's immense size, it's location (on the spot where Cortes met Montezuma for the first time).

Arguably the most beautiful is Patzcuaro's Plaza Vasco de Quiroga - a Mexican colonial classic, surrounded by period buildings and filled with trees. Often, it's just a small mountain town's humble offering, set against the fog enshrouded backdrop of the surrounding Sierra Madre Mountains, such as the little puebla of San Sebastian de Oeste, in the mountains of Jalisco east of Puerto Vallarta. Founded in 1605, San Sebastian was once mining centers of Mexico, the gold and silver giving this one time provincial capital a population of nearly 40,000 people it's now virtually deserted with only 600 or so people living there now, but with the opening of the highway between PV and the lovely inland valley town of Mascota (whose plaza is pictured at the top, and is also enjoying a tourism boost from the highway - it is gaining some notice as an eco-tourism destination) San Sebastian de Oeste is now back on the map as a tourist destination.

Another interesting zocalo can be found in the mountain town Tapalpa. While it's not particularly intimate area, it has an interesting, multi-level layout, an imposing church, is surrounded by interesting stores and restaurants and quaint calles that provide delightful walking opportunities for the small town exploration that make destinations such as Tapalpa so rewarding.

Evenings can provide the most satisfying people watching, culture absorbing zocalo experience - especially during festivals (which can last for a week for the town's patron saint). Carnival attractions, numerous band competitions, nightly (and even early morning) fireworks are all part of the mix, such as this lively scene from the Lake Chapala town ofAjijic attests.

A Useful Resource for Travel in Mexcio

2008-05-03T09:18:00.001-07:00

I recently came across another site of interest to anyone wishing to explore Mexico. Mexico Vacation Travel has frequent posts about various travel destinations in Mexico, most recently about Monterrey - evidently Monterrey is considered one of the safer Mexican cities and has attracted many high-tech industries. I had no idea it had over three and half million residents! Additionally, you'll find some interesting pages dedicated to more often topics such lagoons, ruins, diving, colonial cities, and budget travel.

This site also has a bevy of interesting travel links for Mexico that are worth checking out...and speaking of links and resources, Explore Retire Mexico has recently added a Links and Resources about Mexico page.

Learning Spanish

2008-05-02T17:47:00.001-07:00

Recently I resumed taking an evening class in Spanish at our local JC, the College of Marin. Previous classes, while in the community education system, used a serious college textbook (Como se Dice - very expensive @ over $150) and had an emphasis on learning grammar.

What a pleasant surprise this semester to find an instructor that took the course description to heart and actually was teaching conversational Spanish. No textbook - 90% speaking with handouts for homework exercise that form the basis of the next week's conversation. Two months into the class I'm already comfortable enough to converse in Spanish with little or no stammering. I making intelligent conversation. Asking questions. My recent trip to Cabo, while very resort oriented and not conducive to connecting much with an authentic Mexican experience, still afforded me many opportunities interact and speak Spanish. It sure opens doors to a friendly interchange - every Mexican I spoke with seemed to appreciate my efforts to converse.

So I owe a bit of thanks to my instructor, Patricio Tapia, and I'm now motivated enough to take an additional private classes from him through his "Spanish in Marin" program in San Rafael, CA.

Esperanza - A Perfect 10 Resort

2008-04-15T08:53:00.000-07:00

Far be it for me to claim to be a connoisseur (or even a frequent visitor) of high-end resorts, but I have had the pleasure of staying in many 5-star hotels and resorts in the past 20 years (an awesome perk when your wife works as a consultant to such hotels as Four Seasons, Ritz-Cartlton, and the like). So for whatever that's worth, I feel confident in declaring Los Cabos' Esperanza Resort a perfect 10.

As they say in the real estate biz, it's all about location, location, and location - Esperanza occupies some of the choicest real estate in Baja California Sur's Corridor, the 20 mile stretch of divided highway between San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas (ergo Los Cabos). Set above the ocean, with stunning views of the rocks and arches at land's and occupying some 40 plus acres, Esperanza is divided into two distinct but visually integrated areas: the hotel proper with 56 rooms to the east and 60 fractionally owned one to four bedroom residences grouped in 12 buildings around three sublime swimming pools that climb in succession up the gentle slope from the cliff side playa.

Perhaps it's the hotel's incredibly well situated infinity pool, offering the lounging guest a tranquilizing and mesmerizing view over the edge of a sometimes seething azul and white surf that makes Esperanza so special.

It also could be the absolutely perfect architecture and landscaping - really nothing is out of place or over the top - it's tasteful and attractive.

But it really can be defined by the exceptional service one receives as a guest there, although this probably is an expectation that you have if you know that Esperanza is an Auberge run resort. No matter beautiful a place is, if the staff is surly (Kona, HI anyone?) it will surly spoil the experience.

The Delightful Mountain Town of Tapalpa

2008-01-23T20:07:00.000-08:00

Old brick arcades line the sidewalk of Tapalpa, a small alpine town in the sierra of west central Mexico. Surrounded by pine forests, lakes and streams, Tapalpa beguiles the traveler with its peaceful landscape, quiet pace of life and tradition of colorful arts and crafts.

Nestled in the hills atop a plateau, Tapalpa is a town of some 16,000 inhabitants sitting high at 1950 meters (6350 feet). A gorgeous two and a half hour drive, 81 mile (130 kilometer), southwest from Guadalajara. When Guadalajara heats up in the late spring, the tapatío (as Guadalajarans are known colloquially) flock to the fresh water and air of this beautiful and restful village. The pueblo’s name is derived from náhuatl word, 'Tlapalpan', which translates as “Land of Colors” and is know locally as by the same appellation in Spanish, Lugar de Tierra de Color. The ascent up the twisty road to the sierra de Tapalpa from the San Marcos valley is quite dramatic; a glance back at the impressive view is best left for the return trip, as this road requires all the driving attention you can muster.

Once there, park where you can, and take to the streets, as Tapalpa is for walking. Stroll along the quiet cobblestone calles, poke your head into numerous small tiendas offering local crafts, take in one of the impressive churches (such as the Templo San Antonio at the right), sample the delightful wares, the wide variety of fruits, nuts and vegetables and tempting aromas of the luscious dishes being served up by the vendors off the jardin principal, that surround the main zacalo (plaza)

We had a fabulous lunch in a delightful courtyard at a nearby restaurant called Girasol (sunflower) that features one of the mouthwatering local specialties, tamales de acelgas, stuffed with swiss chard.

Surrounding Tapalpa are other attractions that will engage the adventurous hiker. In a small village known as 'La Barranca De Refugio’, about six miles (ten kilometers) from the plaza you’ll find an impressive waterfall called El Salto de Nogal that plunges 341 feet (105 meters). Nearby the are the crumbling ruins of the 'Taberna' or saloon, where a mezcal named "Barranda' was produced until the late 1940s. Local guides are available in nearby La Barranca that can assist you in visiting the waterfall.

Four and half miles (seven kilometers-the first being the worst, rut wise) northwest of the town from town is the Valley of the Enigmas, where you’ll find the enormous Piedrotes, an unusual outcropping of volcanic rock. Also nearby are the ruins of the Tula ironworks, destroyed in the revolution of 1917. Numerous hiking trails crisscross the local hills and circle the small lakes located nearby.

Tapalpa is definitely worth a full day trip, more like two or three if you really want to savor this Mexican masterpiece of colonial charm and endurance

Mexican Volanco Popocatepetl Erupting

2008-01-12T07:58:00.000-08:00

Earthweek reports that Popocatepetl, Mexico's 2nd tallest volcano @ 17,634 ft. (5426 meters), has erupted, spewing ash across neighboring villages. Popo is one of Mexico's most active volcanoes, last erupting in 1994 and having done so 15 previous times since the Spanish conquest in the 1519. It's located 45 miles (70 km) southeast of Mexico City, and 30 miles (45 km) southwest of Puebla.

View Larger Map
All of central Mexico teems with Volcanic activity, and I had an opportunity to view the effects on a recently trip to Michoacán, where I visited the village of San Juan Parangaricutiro, almost completely buried by the young Volcán de Parícutin that rose out of a Tarascan farmer's cornfield in 1943. It was eerie to hike across the craggy lava field to visit all that remains of the village, the church spires rising out of the once molten rock.
As I researched for more information about Popocatepetl I punched Mexico Volcano into Yahoo!. Not surprisingly, ads appeared on the right hand column, and how well remembered your thoughtful gift of a Mexican Volcano will be - just like VD, a "Give the Gift that Keeps on Giving".

This underscores the pitfall of blind keyword insertion (not that the search engines mind:$$$) It seems we have more and more inexperienced marketeers (mouseketeers, perhaps?) that have no grasp of using negative (exclude) keywords to forestall gaffes such as these. Even the National Geographic Ad, which did lead to an article on volcanoes, did not deliver on most of the ad's promise: the article provided a few facts and one photo, but no volcano "news, wallpapers, videos and safety tips" were to be found.

Driving in Mexico - Siempre Mas Rapido

2007-12-13T20:58:00.001-08:00

Getting behind the wheel in Mexico is definitely an adventure, and while not for the feint of heart, is really one of the better ways to really explore and discover rural Mexico.
That said, driving isn't essential to see the real Mexico, as this is a country with the largest (and one of the most efficient) bus systems in the world, and a bus will get you to the remotest parts of Chiapas or Baja - but it can take a while.

The cost of driving in Mexico can actually be relatively cheap - gas prices are not subject to onerous taxation (there is only one supplier, the government owned Pemex) and the price is currently about $2.35 a gallon, car rentals can be relatively cheap (recently I rented a Dodge Attitude @ the airport in Guadalajara for $85 a week) and if you avoid the autopista (toll roads) the highways are free, albeit two-lane, clogged with trucks and pot-holed. The biggest headache is driving through any sort of town or semi-populated area and encountering the ubiquitous "topes" or speed bumps. If you're lucky they're marked with a sign, but usually there is no warning, except maybe the car in front bouncing in the air. These things are lethal, break an axle, certifiable road hazards. Occaisonally, there is a warning sign saying "reductor de velicidad" so for gringos tourists who may be all eyes on the sights it's essential to learn to watch for them. Another warning sign is the collection of roadside vendors that cluster about them, hoping that the slowdown will give you an opportunity to consider their wares.

On Lake Chapala

2007-11-25T05:14:00.000-08:00

Lake Chapala is Mexico's largest freshwater lake, 50 miles (80km) in width and a surface area about twice that of California's Lake Tahoe. Fed and drained by Mexico's longest river (called the Rio Lerma coming in, Rio Santiago on the way out), it is very shallow and is ecologically challenged in many ways. As you can see in the photo on the right, water hyacinths are a huge problem, choking the windward shoreline in many areas, agricultural run-off and the water demands of nearby Guadalajara are stressing it even further.

Despite whatever stress it may be under Lago Chapala is extremely beautiful and yesterday saw us take a boat trip in a hired panga to Isla de los Alacranes (Scorpian Island), one of two islands on the lake (the other, Isla Mezcala, is about an hour by boat from Chapala, and is of interest for the Battle of Mezcala in 1812-16 during Mexico's war of independence). Fifteen minutes over to the island found us marvelling at the incredible views back towards the Sierras El Travesano, El Vigas and El Mandrono mountains that front the northwest shoreline behind the Chapala Riveria. The island itself is occupied by three or four small restaurants and numerous small huts used by local fishermen and we walked the length of it in a half hour. We found the island charming but typically littered with trash, an unfortunate aspect of Mexico that is still in evidence everywhere (although improving glacially in some areas).

The ride back was equally pleasant with numerous bird sightings of fishing egrets and alcatrazes (white pelicans) and we followed with a delicious lunch of red snapper ala veracruz and brochetta sierra y mar on the expansive veranda of the resturant Los Cazadores in the historic Braniff (of aviation fame) mansion facing the lakeshore on Paseo Ramon Carona.

Thanksgiving in Mexico

2007-11-23T05:22:00.000-08:00

Yesterday was Thanksgiving, the first I've ever spent spent away from a family gathering. How come it took so long? My wife asked if this might be the most memorable one we've ever spent - without a doubt it is. The highlight was getting fresh frambuesas (raspberries) directly from the farms near Jocotapec, the western most town along the Lake Chapala shore. From across the lake in Ajijic you can see the shimmering reflection of the white plastic toldos (sunshades) that cover the rows of berries. Pick a farm, drive up a dirt road and look for a sorting hut between the rows. You need to bring your own pail, and hopefully they've got extra berries to sell you. What the sorters do is set aside the ripe berries as they pack the unripe ones for export to the US; the best berries are the rejects.

It took us two tries to find a hut that had any, beating out a couple of other cars with norte americano plates. We picked up a half gallon of the freshest, most delicious berries imaginable, for forty pesos (less than 4 dollars) - about the price you pay for small plastic tray at the supermarket at home.

As Ajijic and Lake Chapala are the winter home to numerous gringos and many of the local restaurants run by expats offer a Thanksgiving feast - we booked a 7 PM seating at Pedro's Gourmet on Calle Ocampo. An absolutely gorgeous day yielded buen tiempos for the evening as we sat outside sipping our limonade and tamarind margarita. We soon enjoyed a sumptuous buffet that included scallion souffle, gorgonzola cheese mashed potatos and as tender a pavo (turkey) as I've ever had. Pedro's grew up in Canada, parents of a Toronto oil executive and a Mexican mother (his father's translator). His madre, determined to bassimulate, learned to cook a Canadian Thanksgiving, and last night's menu was redux of the recipes she had mastered.

Greetings from Ajijic, Jalisco

2007-11-21T11:02:00.000-08:00

This post finds me enjoying a beautiful day in sunny Ajijic, on the shores of Lake Chapala. A town of about 15,000, it's population swells during the winter season as migratory snowbirds from all over North America come to spend winter here basking in the winter sun, grooving on the mild climate and taking advantage of the (relatively) inexpensive cost of living that can be found here.

We're staying in the Jewel House, one of two casas owned by Leo and Sheila Gutman. A pleasant 2 bedroom abode, well appointed and within walking distance of town, CasaGutman is one of many rentals catering to wintering norte americanos.

While we aren't here for the entire winter (yet) we are spending a week here and finding out what the pace of life in a small Mexican town is like, interacting with Ajijic residents, both native and expat, to find out about the quality of life here. So far, so good. Early morning found us hiking for the second day high above the town, this time beyond the little chapel that the locals trek up to on Easter week. Thick cloud cover made for a dramatic red sunrise and obscured our views across Mexico's largest lake, but still rendered an awesome vista that was very surreal . The trail up is steep after the 12 shrines one encounters on the way up to the chapel, but the scenery is dramatic, the mountains rise sharply behind Ajijic and Chapala.

Later that morning, after a delicious breakfast of fresh bodillos from the panaderia (bakery) around the corner, we trekked down to the Ajijic village street market, held every Wednesday and stocked our cocina (kitchen) with plenty of fresh fruit and veggies, and numerous varieties of queso (cheese). I'm thinking that there is an entire web page for the site on Mexican cheese in the not so distant future. We also picked up some green tortillas that were 1/4 corn and 3/4 cactus - we made open faced quesadillas smothered in fresh tomatillo salsa.

Our afternoon was spent getting fabulous massages at a spa in town for 250 pesos each (less than $25US). We followed with a beautiful sunset stroll along the Chapala Riberia waterfront park between San Antonio Tlayacapan and the town of Lake Chapala. Life is muy bueno in Mexico right now.

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Home Ownership for Expats in Mexico

2007-11-17T15:58:00.001-08:00

A recent series of articles by San Francisco Chronicle busines section columnist Kathleen Pender has highlighted overseas real estate ownership by Americans. This past Sunday she presented two additional articles specifically about buying real estate and living in Mexico.

She cites Mexico and Central America as being attractive for American buyers, because of their relative closeness and that real estate is relatively inexpensive (the relative is conditional, however, because if you currently live in Michigan and are thinking of buying in San Miguel de Allende you might pay more for something comparable in size - thankfully there is no comparing the climate).

In one of the articles, Tales of buying property south of the border, Pender has two Americans discussing their experience buying property in Mexico, one man bought coastal property in Baja with the other couple purchasing in San Miguel de Allende. Both stories were positive, the common theme being the difficulties encountered, paritcularly navigating Mexican laws and customs.

We'll discuss her other article in a future post.

Our Mexico

2007-11-16T20:21:00.000-08:00

You'd think that after 12 years of working on websites nearly 24/7 one might get a bit sick of it all...but no way, Jose. Everyday there's some new site to be found, some interesting thing that can suck you int to a topic or place that you may have never heard of or always wanted to check out.

So today, I discovered another web site with a fair degree of similarity in purpose and creation that this one has (although it predates explore-retire-mexico.com by more than a few years). It's called Our Mexico and I'll be exploring the site a bit more in the upcoming weeks - after I return from a week in Ajijic, on the shores of Lake Chapala, a little burg of 15K that has become an expat haven for norte americanos. I visited Ajijic briefly at about this same time last year and definitely found it deserved a repeat visit, albeit one of longer duration. We'll report on it's charms in the next few days.

The Ultimate Guide to Living, Working, Traveling, and Retiring in Mexico

2007-11-10T08:04:00.000-08:00

This past Wednesday my wife and I attended a 3 hour seminar at our local JC, the College of Marin, entitled "The Ultimate Guide to Living, Working, Traveling, and Retiring in Mexico" given by Paul Heller, author, world traveler and web journalist and founder of the "Big Blue Marble" website.

Despite the rather large scope of the seminar's title, on the whole it was a very informative presentation, not prone to hyperbole about any aspect of the Mexican expat experience. Paul gave a really broad overview, focusing first on the benefits and pitfalls, and thankfully saving logistic info like real estate prices for last.

I felt that one insight that made it particularly worthwhile was that Paul really got the audience to consider the "why" of making Mexico a retirement destination decision. He related both his and other expat experiences - that moving to/retiring in Mexico is not really about cost, per se, although on the surface that might be a most people's primary consideration for taking the plunge. It really is about personal growth - what happens to you when you transport yourself into a situation, circumstance, an existence that may be out of your comfort zone, but allows you to examine and shed those things that may be stifling your own development as a being (and world citizen).

Anyway, I'll muse more on these and other topics that Paul brought to discussion as I plow through his extensive hand out booklets and reading list. Check out his website and seminar page to see if he's coming to your community anytime soon - it's definitely worthwhile if you're considering Mexican retirement.

Follow the Reader

2007-11-05T19:22:00.000-08:00

As a San Francisco Bay Area resident and a longtime reader of the SF Chronicle, I'm a regular reader of their Sunday travel section - and I was do a quick scan of a feature they've had for years called "Follow the Reader". I've frequently found gems within that interested me, and few that I even motivated me to go/book/act/travel/stay. An Agriturismo in Umbria, great condo in Yosemite, a beach house in Sayalita Mexico, and more.

This past Sunday, I spied one that I'll bookmark for a future trip to the Yucatan Peninsula - Michael Guenza of San Francisco shared his experiences in the of Valladolid and in particular the Hotel Zaci (which means white hawk in Mayan). With rates in the 250 to 350 peso range, it's muy económico. Valladolid is almost in the center of the region, at the intersection of Mexico Highways 295 & 180, halfway between Merida and Cancun and well situated for exploration of Mayan ruins such as Chichen Itza and Tulum.

Fluency is on the Horizon

2007-07-30T21:11:00.000-07:00

It's been three years since I my first Spanish class and I am making progress. Sometimes it's hard to tell - there have been plenty of times in class that I have experienced complete brain freeze, it doesn't help that classes are in the evening after 8 plus hours at work and a fairly long commute.

Living in the San Francisco Bay Area does help - there are numerous opportunities to speak Spanish if I make the effort and I find that native speakers are pleasantly surprised when I blurt out "Que tenga un buen dia" after buying strawberries at the farmer's market.

I also find that just listening or reading for 10 to 20 minutes day helps keep me connected with the process and builds vocabulary. I usually visit the about.com Spanish guide a couple times a month. A great learning tool that can be accessed anytime, anywhere - from my laptop at a boring work meeting, por exemplo.

I aspire to at least two weeks in Mexico at an immersion school - living with an local family and being forced to do all my communication in Spanish should push me to the next level - to start thinking in Spanish. I've actually found myself dreaming in Spanish on more than a couple of occasions, and I realize that often when I over hear conversations that I've understood some or most of it without actual makingthe mental translation. I know what the words mean. Quite satisfying.

Another Post from Down Under

2007-05-11T21:51:00.000-07:00

My recent trip to San Jose del Cabo revealed yet another aspect of globalization, the destabilization of the local economy. We went out to dinner one night at a fairly upscale establishment with a reputation for haute local cuisine and an excellent Tequila selection. Both were in ample evidence, and we had a fine meal, and I had what might have been the two best Margaritas I've ever consumed, but the bill came to $124 US, no appetizers and a $14 bottle of Perrier. Whoa, this ain't the Mexico I remember.

But, the locals aren't eating here, and the prices across town at the local Pollo Loco are still "mui bueno". And the new Home Depot and Costco have more Mexican customers than gringos, so who's to say exactly if the boom is detrimental.