tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-82313803882662133062009-06-10T16:51:41.065-07:00The Ancient Art of BonsaiHobby Bonsaihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.comBlogger30125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-51289816289825665662009-05-22T23:18:00.000-07:002009-05-22T23:19:05.204-07:00The Ancient Art of Bonsai: Glossary, Chapter II<span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"></span></span> <p><a name="Anchor-48213"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="largeV"><b>L</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>lava</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>layering</b> - a method of propagating a tree by ring-girdling the trunk and inducing roots to grow from the wound.</span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-37516"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="largeV"><b>M</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>miyogi</b> - Japanese term for informal upright style</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>mycorhizzae</b></span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-23522"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="largeV"><b>N</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>neagari</b> - Japanese term for exposed root or octopus style</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>nebari</b> - Japanese term for the exposed root base of a tree</span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-21683"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="largeV"><b>O</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>overpotting</b> - planting a bonsai in a container that is larger than necessary to maintain it.</span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-46919"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="largeV"><b>P</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>pH</b> - measure of soil acidity. pH 7.0 is neutral. lower pH is acid, higher pH is alkaline.</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>perlite</b> - lightweight, porous, white granules that can hold water and air.</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>pot</b> - A growing container for bonsai, usually high-fired clay</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>pumice</b> - A white, hard volcanic product used as an agricultural amendment</span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-47383"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="largeV"><b>R</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>raffia</b> - A dried shredded reed used to wrap branches and trunk before bending to cushion and reduce the likelihood of splitting.</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>raft style</b> - a bonsai style in which multiple trunks grow in a line from a connected base.</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>ramification</b> - the development of a twigging structure by a series of divisions of branches into twigs and twiglets</span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-49425"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="largeV"><b>S</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>sabamiki</b> -A Japanese term for a tree with a wounded trunk tree that is hollow or split open</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>saikei</b> - tray plantings containing stones, trees, plants, but in the strict sense, without figurines - See bonkei.</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>shari</b> - Japanese term for exposed deadwood on a tree</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>sokan</b> - Japanese term for a twin trunk tree</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>shakkan</b> - Japanese term for slant style bonsai</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>sifting</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>suiban</b> - Japanese term for a shallow tray without drainage holes intended for the display of suiseki</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>suiseki</b> - Japanese term for viewing stone</span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-17304"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="largeV"><b>T</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>tachiagari</b> - Japanese term for the lower portion of the trunk</span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-51540"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="largeV"><b>V</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>variegated</b> - a tree with foliage spotted or striped in two or more colors.</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>vermiculite</b> - mica that has been expanded with heat into a lightweight granule. Useful in rooting seedlings.</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>viewing stone</b> - a stone appreciated for its natural characteristics, as a mountain or natural scene, including cliffs, waterfalls or an appearance reminiscent of a figure, animal, implement or structure, or perhaps an entirely abstract shape.</span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-44591"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="largeV"><b>W</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>whetstone</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>wire</b></span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-43793"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="largeV"><b>Y</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>yamadori</b> - Japanese term for a tree collected from the wild mountain, or a tree with that appearance.</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>yose-ue</b> - Japanese term for forest or group planting</span></span></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8231380388266213306-5128981628982566566?l=lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com'/></div>Hobby Bonsaihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-57974649429948574242009-05-22T23:17:00.000-07:002009-05-22T23:18:06.184-07:00The Ancient Art of Bonsai: Glossary, Chapter I<span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span class="largeV">A</span></b></span> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>apex</b> - the tip of a tree or branch</span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-47857"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span class="largeV">B</span></b></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>bonsai</b> - Japanese term for the the art of cultivating and training a plant to create the illusion of a dwarfed tree.</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>bonkei</b> - tray plantings containing stones, trees, plants and figurines</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>branch bender</b> - a clamp or jack used to bend branches or trunk</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>branch splitter</b> - a cutting tool used to divide branch or trunk to allow it to be bent more easily.</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>broom style</b> - A training form for bonsai which resembles an inverted broom with a single trunk dividing into many symmetric branchlets which subdivide into twigs and so forth. See Hokidachi</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>bunjin</b> - Japanese term for an educated person or literati, a tree grown in this style, usually emphasizing a thin trunk, with a lean appearance and container with rough-hewn appearance.</span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-11481"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span class="largeV">C</span></b></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>callus</b> - The raised roll of tissue that forms as a wound heals and closes</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>cambium</b> - The layer of tissue between the xylem and phloem, where new wood is formed.</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>chokkan</b> - Japanese term for the formal upright style</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>clump style</b> - see Kabaduchi</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>concave cutters</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>cutting</b> - a bit of a plant that has been cut and rooted. A means to propagate.</span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-35882"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span class="largeV">D</span></b></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>deciduous</b> - a plant that sheds its leaves and enters a state of dormancy annually</span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-14210"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="largeV"><b>E</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>eda</b> - Japanese term for branch</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>evergreen</b> - a tree that does not shed its leaves in winter</span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-23240"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><b><span class="largeV">F</span></b></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>fungicide</b> - a chemical used to combat the growth of fungus</span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-3800"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="largeV"><b>G</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>graft</b> - to join a stem of one plant with another so they grow together. Grafting is used both to propagate plant species and to add foliage where none previously existed on a bonsai.</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>grafting knife</b></span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-35326"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="largeV"><b>H</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>han-kengai</b> - Japanese term for semi-cascade - See also Kengai</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>hokidachi</b> - Japanese Term for Broom Style</span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-44867"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="largeV"><b>I</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>ishitsuki</b> - Japanese term for root-over-rock style</span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-33869"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="largeV"><b>J</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>jin</b> - Pronounced JEEN - Japanese term for snags of deadwood on the ends of branches or trunk.</span></span></p> <p><a name="Anchor-6296"></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="largeV"><b>K</b></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>kabaduchi</b> - Japanese term for clump style bonsai</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>kengai</b> - Japanese term for cascade style. See also han-kengai</span></span></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8231380388266213306-5797464942994857424?l=lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com'/></div>Hobby Bonsaihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-30834126796908484542009-05-22T23:12:00.000-07:002009-05-22T23:16:26.101-07:00Hobby Bonsai: Tools & Supplies<div align="center"> <img src="file:///D:/Bozze/The_Ancient_Art_of_Bonsai/Learning%20The%20Art%20Of%20Bonsai%20%28BonsaiHut.com%29/chap_04/tools_and_supplies/images/shears.jpg" alt="" width="150" border="0" height="150" /><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><br /> --------------------------------<br /> <br /> </span></span><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;color:#990000;"><span class="standardV"><b>Shears</b></span></span></div> <div align="left"> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><b>ASHINAGA Shear</b> - The Ashinaga shear is a basic tool for thinning and defoliating bonsai. Together, the Concave Branch Cutter and the Ashinaga shear are generally considered the two most basic bonsai tools.</span></span></p><div align="center"> <img src="file:///D:/Bozze/The_Ancient_Art_of_Bonsai/Learning%20The%20Art%20Of%20Bonsai%20%28BonsaiHut.com%29/chap_04/tools_and_supplies/images/trimmers.jpg" alt="" width="150" border="0" height="150" /><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><br /> --------------------------------<br /> <br /> </span></span><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;color:#990000;"><span class="standardV"><b>Trimmers</b></span></span></div> <div align="left"> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV">Leaf trimmers, also known as defoliating shears, are the preferred tool for removal of unwanted leaves and buds. They allow fast and precise removal of foliage. Very popular for bonsai.</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV">The <b>JR-166 Professional Grade Leaf Trimmer</b> is the most versatile of the leaf trimmers in the JR line because its extended length permits reaching deep with a minimum of disturbance to the surrounding foliage.</span></span></p><div align="center"> <img src="file:///D:/Bozze/The_Ancient_Art_of_Bonsai/Learning%20The%20Art%20Of%20Bonsai%20%28BonsaiHut.com%29/chap_04/tools_and_supplies/images/saw.jpg" alt="" width="150" border="0" height="150" /><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><br /> --------------------------------<br /> <br /> </span></span><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;color:#990000;"><span class="standardV"><b>Saws</b></span></span></div> <div align="left"> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV">This saw is made specifically for cutting dense root stock. The 1” wood handle is 4” long and curved to provide a good grip for working the roots. Its heavy duty blade has a strong pointed tip for probing and 7 teeth/inch for fast cuts. A durable saw for this special task.</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV">6” blade, 10 3/4” overall length.</span></span></p><div align="center"> <img src="file:///D:/Bozze/The_Ancient_Art_of_Bonsai/Learning%20The%20Art%20Of%20Bonsai%20%28BonsaiHut.com%29/chap_04/tools_and_supplies/images/wire.jpg" alt="" width="150" border="0" height="150" /><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><br /> --------------------------------<br /> <br /> </span></span><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;color:#990000;"><span class="standardV"><b>Wire</b></span></span></div> <div align="left"> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV">Our copper wire is fully annealed and ready to use. Copper wire is much stronger than aluminum, and is frequently used in the shaping of branches of trees where the greater holding power is most required. Copper is annealed so it goes on soft, yet takes a "set" that keeps branches in place.</span></span></p><div align="center"> <img src="file:///D:/Bozze/The_Ancient_Art_of_Bonsai/Learning%20The%20Art%20Of%20Bonsai%20%28BonsaiHut.com%29/chap_04/tools_and_supplies/images/wire_cutters.jpg" alt="" width="150" border="0" height="150" /><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><br /> --------------------------------<br /> <br /> </span></span><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;color:#990000;"><span class="standardV"><b>Wire Cutters</b></span></span></div> <div align="left"> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV">Bonsai wire cutters are designed specifically for bonsai wire. Although initiates to bonsai sometimes substitute standard wire cutters, the Japanese have designed these bonsai wire cutters with a rounded head to prevent damage to the branch, and with jaws that cut the wire symmetrically and cleanly. Highly recommended for serious enthusiasts.</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV">Variations in the quality of material and finish are reflected in the price. Smaller wire cutters are also available in most grades.</span></span></p><div align="center"> <img src="file:///D:/Bozze/The_Ancient_Art_of_Bonsai/Learning%20The%20Art%20Of%20Bonsai%20%28BonsaiHut.com%29/chap_04/tools_and_supplies/images/pliers.jpg" alt="" width="150" border="0" height="150" /><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><br /> --------------------------------<br /> <br /> </span></span><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;color:#990000;"><span class="standardV"><b>Pliers</b></span></span></div> <div align="left"> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV">These pliers, known in Japan as <i>Yattoko</i>, are designed specifically for manipulating bonsai wire when applying and removing wire from trunks and branches. They also find use in repotting operations in tightening tie wires. High carbon steel construction provides durability.</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV">Large Intermediate Wire Pliers have 7/8 in. jaws, and are 9 in. long overall.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;color:#990000;"><span class="standardV"><b>Chopsticks</b></span></span> </p><div align="left"> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV">One of the most useful bonsai tools, this set of durable jumbo chopsticks is carved from bamboo. Made especially for working soil around bonsai, these hearty bamboo chopsticks are packaged in a set of two in 8-1/2 and 11" lengths.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><br /> </span></span><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;color:#990000;"><span class="standardV"><b>Brush</b></span></span> </p><div align="left"> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV">Bonsai brooms are great for leveling the topsoil after transplanting, dusting off work benches and pottery, and grooming the branches of pines to remove loose pine needles.</span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV">The <b>JR- 6003 Bonsai Broom</b> is 6-1/2 inches in length and has medium bristles.</span></span></p><div align="center"> <img src="file:///D:/Bozze/The_Ancient_Art_of_Bonsai/Learning%20The%20Art%20Of%20Bonsai%20%28BonsaiHut.com%29/chap_04/tools_and_supplies/images/watering_can.jpg" alt="" width="150" border="0" height="150" /><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV"><br /> --------------------------------<br /> <br /> </span></span><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;color:#990000;"><span class="standardV"><b>Water Can</b></span></span></div> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV">Watering with a can is a popular method for small collections and a great way to dispense water soluble fertilizers.</span></span></p> <span style="font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="standardV">This is the traditional approach and some say, "the only way to water.</span></span> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8231380388266213306-3083412679690848454?l=lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com'/></div>Hobby Bonsaihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-32486184130241909232009-05-22T23:01:00.001-07:002009-05-22T23:03:36.698-07:00Bonsai Groups: The planting of groups is essentially the same as that for one tree<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SheRZcjg6rI/AAAAAAAAAFg/EEdYY9n_xpg/s1600-h/29cff752.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 155px; height: 200px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SheRZcjg6rI/AAAAAAAAAFg/EEdYY9n_xpg/s200/29cff752.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5338895749618920114" border="0" /></a>The planting of groups is essentially the same as that for one tree. However before planting is started, build up a mental picture of the group as it should look when finished.<br /><br />Avoid straight lines either front to back or side to side between two or more trees. In other words, do not have three trees in a row; the effect will be entirely unnatural. Position and secure the main two trees first, the lesser trees are planted to complement and give depth to the larger main trees, securing each tree as it is planted.<br /><br />One can tie in the whole group with string ; going over the whole of the pot. This is not very attractive but might be found easier with complicated groups.<br />This Trident Maple is trained in the clump style and is approx. 45 years old<br /><br />Rock planting<br />Some rock such as tuffa, which comes from Derbyshire, can be drilled and chiselled away o form an almost natural pot within the rock itself. The soil mixture for planting a tree in a rock pot is exactly the same as that used for the same variety of tree. If the tree is to straddle the rock-roots growing down the sides into the soil-use a mixture of 50% peat and 50% fine loam. Mix this with water to give a sticky mud. Dampen he rock and apply a thin layer of compost over the face of the rock. Clean and separate the tots of the tree, positioning it so that the main roots run down any available crevices in the Sock. Bury the ends of the roots in the soil (the compost in the pot will be the same as when potting normally). If it is necessary to tie the tree in position this can be done with twine or elastic-covered garden wire, protecting the roots with thin strips of rubber. If it is difficult to secure the wire, small rings of copper can be cemented to the rock surface.After tying in apply an ample layer of peat/loam mix over all exposed roots. To stop rain washing this off, plant moss over the whole planting, securing it with 'V's of copper wire. This will also help to stop evaporation. Always protect rock plantings from bright sunlight and heavy rain for at least a month, spraying the whole planting at least twice a day.<br /><br />Training<br />Of the two basic methods for shaping a Bonsai tree, pruning is by far the most important. This is carried out throughout the life of every Bonsai tree where as wiring to shape is only done when the tree's shape needs to be corrected fairly radically. Even then, it might only be me branch that has moved away from its desired position.<br /><br />A flowering Peach Bonsai approx. 12 years old<br />Pruning<br />Pruning can be divided into three main headings:<br /><br />(1) Heavy Branch Pruning:<br />This is a general thinning out of old, diseased, weak, or unnecessary branches that grew the previous year. This should always be carried out during the Autumn, early Winter or early Spring before the sap has begun to flow at full strength. I have used the Samuri Stainless Steel Cutters to great effect over the years(<br /><br />2) General Pruning:<br />This is the pruning carried out throughout every growing season. It is designed to maintain and create shape, thin excessive growth, and produce an abundance of flower buds in flowering trees. Best to use delicate trimming shears to minimise and ancillary damage. General Pruning is also needed to maintain the ever-important balance between the smallness of the root ball and the top growth; if the top is allowed to grow away from this balance the roots will not be able to maintain it in good condition; the roots may rot or die out and a vicious circle can be created-the end result being severe dying-back or even death.<br /><br />(3) Leaf Cutting:<br />Leaf cutting is one of the 'secrets' of Bonsai training. In June, providing the tree is in good condition and has been amply fertilised to promote strong healthy growth, some or all the leaves of most deciduous trees can be removed by cutting them away with sharp scissors or defoliating shears. One leaves the petiole or leaf stalk on the tree which, in two to three weeks, withers and drops off. The tree has a false autumn and anew set of leaves and shoots appear. The effect is to produce bushy growth, smaller leaves and much better autumn colouring.<br />The trees most suitable for leaf cutting are the Maple family, Elms, Beech, Birch, etc., but not fruiting or flowering specimens. To find out which trees are best suited for leaf<br />trimmming and get an overview of all the different varieties of Bonsai have a look at "The A-Z of Bonsai"<br /><br />Wiring<br />Wiring is generally considered to be one of the most difficult techniques for shaping Bonsai trees. However, after a little practice on a small branch cut from an ordinary tree its mystery will soon disappear. The most important point to bear in mind is that one mustn't rush-take your time. Before using wire consider the subject from all angles. If it is possible to achieve the desired shape by pruning alone then don't use wire. If wire has to be used choose the gauge that just holds the branch in position-if it is too stiff the wood will tend to bend in and out between the coils.<br /><br />Copper wire (sizes 8 to 24 are generally used, 8 being the largest) that has been annealed in a slow fire is more suitable than iron wire. It does not rust or look unsightly on the tree.Deciduous trees should be wired immediately after their leaves have attained full size when the sap is flowing freely. Wires should only be left on deciduous for a maximum of 6 months. Some trees have very soft bark and the wire should have paper wrapped round it to protect the tree.Evergreen and coniferous trees take longer to become set in position and wires can be left on for 12-18 months. They must always be removed if they start cutting into the bark. Always start wiring from the base of the trunk, burying the wire in the soil to anchor it. After the trunk progress to the largest branches, continuing from large to small until finishing on the topmost smallest branches.<br /><br /><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--><br /><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?12211798C1306351348T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?12211798C1306351348" alt="PEC_250x250c.gif" width="250" align="bottom" border="0" height="250" hspace="1" /></a><br /><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --><div style="text-align: center;"><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --> </style> <table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <col width="128"> <col width="128"> <tbody><tr valign="top"> <td width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Related Post</b></span></span></p> </td> <td rowspan="2" width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --></span></span></p> <p align="center"> <span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--></span></span></p> <div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://www.jdoqocy.com/click-2791513-10635798" target="_top"><img src="http://www.awltovhc.com/image-2791513-10635798" alt="" width="120" border="0" height="600" /></a></span></span></div> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="50%"> <ul><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/secret-art-of-bonsai-revealed.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - The Secret Art of Bonsai Revealed</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/seasonal-care-and-protection.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - Seasonal care and protection</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/acquiring-bonsai-buying-trained-tree.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - Acquiring a Bonsai-buying a trained tree</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/11/bonsai-essentials-fertilizer.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Essentilas: Fertilizer, Nutrient Selection and Major Selection, Organic vs Inorganic</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">10/03 - Bonsai Teacher</a><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">: </a><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">After 23 years of bonsai it was great to see a book that was teaching me new things page after page. 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Insetticidi, fungicidi e diserbanti</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/wabi-e-sabi.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Wabi and Sabi</span></span></a></p></li></ul></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8231380388266213306-3248618413024190923?l=lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com'/></div>Hobby Bonsaihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-33617661313692632712009-05-07T22:17:00.000-07:002009-05-08T00:29:01.794-07:00Bonsai Styles, Chapter 3<span style="font-weight: bold;">ISHITSUKI</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgPOwTUH9RI/AAAAAAAAAFI/I8T3POkI3Ek/s1600-h/styles_bonsai_chapter3_html_m71904a8d.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 237px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgPOwTUH9RI/AAAAAAAAAFI/I8T3POkI3Ek/s400/styles_bonsai_chapter3_html_m71904a8d.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333333712950523154" border="0" /></a>The tree itself may follow any style, the significance is that a rock is used instead of a pot, with the roots growing in a crevice or hollow.<br /><br />The rock may stand in a shallow dish of soil or, better still, in a water tray Mixed plantings of pines with red maples or dwarf quince and azalea are particularly successful.<br /><br />The essence of the root on rock style is the natural landscape that the composition evokes.<br /><br />The choice of rocks, tree species and various accompanying plants must be carefully made, ensuring that they all harmonise visually and horticulturally, since repotting can be a difficult operation.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-2791513-10593904" target="_top"><br /><img src="http://www.tqlkg.com/image-2791513-10593904" alt="CallYa 1/15" width="300" border="0" height="250" /></a><br /></div><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">NETSUNANARI</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgPOe8dGRDI/AAAAAAAAAEw/J0CPyyBjsD4/s1600-h/styles_bonsai_chapter3_html_fc07eea.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 284px; height: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgPOe8dGRDI/AAAAAAAAAEw/J0CPyyBjsD4/s400/styles_bonsai_chapter3_html_fc07eea.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333333414756369458" border="0" /></a><br />As the name suggests, this is a raft planting where the original horizontal trunk has attractive snake-like curves and is exposed in such a way as to show this feature to its best advantage.<br /><br />With a style like this it is even acceptable for the old trunk to be above the ground in places.<br />The natural inspiration for the sinuous raft style is a fallen tree that has sprouted vertical branches and then taken root in places where it has come into contact with the earth.<br /><br />Although trees of this kind themselves may conform to any style, they should harmonise and all be similar in trunk movement.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.jdoqocy.com/click-2791513-10544216" target="_top"><br /><img src="http://www.ftjcfx.com/image-2791513-10544216" alt="Find your perfect holiday" width="300" border="0" height="250" /></a><br /></div><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">IKADABUKI</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgPOUP3v5KI/AAAAAAAAAEg/lG26WuQiVV0/s1600-h/styles_bonsai_chapter3_html_46fad831.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 273px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgPOUP3v5KI/AAAAAAAAAEg/lG26WuQiVV0/s400/styles_bonsai_chapter3_html_46fad831.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333333230989862050" border="0" /></a><br />Another obvious one: a raft planting where the original trunk lies in a straight line.<br /><br />Most rafts created from nursery stock follow this style because of the difficulty of bending a fairly thick trunk into sinuous curves.In such cases the trunk is usually buried in the soil or covered with moss to disguise its unnatural appearance.<br /><br />The main problem to solve when making a straight raft is how to avoid a straight row of trunks.<br />This can be achieved by training some branches horizontally forward or backward before bending them up to form trunks.<br /><br />It is even possible to create a fairly dense forest in this way.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.kqzyfj.com/click-2791513-10486084" target="_top"><br /><img src="http://www.awltovhc.com/image-2791513-10486084" alt="uBid Computer Auctions" width="300" border="0" height="250" /></a><br /></div><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">NEAGARI</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgPOpox23vI/AAAAAAAAAFA/hLk49bMsL6U/s1600-h/styles_bonsai_chapter3_html_m8011d5d.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 390px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgPOpox23vI/AAAAAAAAAFA/hLk49bMsL6U/s400/styles_bonsai_chapter3_html_m8011d5d.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333333598453292786" border="0" /></a>Most of us have driven down lanes where the steep banks have been washed away to expose the roots of an ancient beech or pine, and this style is based on such cases.<br /><br />The roots, which must have mature bark and interesting shapes, add a dramatic, rugged appearance, so the design of the tree itself should echo this.<br /><br />The foliage mass should be kept fairly small so that its weight or wind resistance doesn’t cause the exposed roots to bend over.<br /><br />You might find wild specimens that lend themselves to training in this style, but more often than not, growing from scratch is the easiest method.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-2791513-10461107" target="_top"><br /><img src="http://www.ftjcfx.com/image-2791513-10461107" alt="" width="336" border="0" height="280" /></a><br /></div><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">SÔJU</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgPO2OMITjI/AAAAAAAAAFQ/fkcqMSfBiaU/s1600-h/styles_bonsai_chapter3_html_mc90edea.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 221px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgPO2OMITjI/AAAAAAAAAFQ/fkcqMSfBiaU/s400/styles_bonsai_chapter3_html_mc90edea.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333333814654029362" border="0" /></a><br />Two trunks, one smaller than the other, joined together at the base.<br /><br />Trunks which divide significantly above the base are unacceptable.<br /><br />The smaller or secondary trunk should be slightly to the rear of the dominant one to enhance the perspective.<br /><br />The trees themselves may follow any appropriate style. These bonsai can sometimes be difficult to maintain in the long term, because as the trunks thicken with age, the fork between<br />them inevitably begins to fill.<br /><br />This has the effect of raising the junction until eventually it is too high. When starting a sôju, make the angle between the trunks as wide as possible.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-2791513-10544615" target="_top"><br /><img src="http://www.tqlkg.com/image-2791513-10544615" alt="" width="324" border="0" height="188" /></a><br /></div><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">BANKAN</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgPOkLyTwgI/AAAAAAAAAE4/pjtlWHMR3Rg/s1600-h/styles_bonsai_chapter3_html_m5261d2a4.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 241px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgPOkLyTwgI/AAAAAAAAAE4/pjtlWHMR3Rg/s400/styles_bonsai_chapter3_html_m5261d2a4.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333333504771211778" border="0" /></a><br />This most unnatural of all bonsai styles has heavy Chinese in uence. It became popular for a time last century and was grown in large numbers.<br /><br />Although still popular among some hobbyists, it is seldom accepted in classic circles. The trunk spirals from base to apex while the branch structure follows that of the informal upright.<br /><br />Unfortunately, the majority of commercial, mass-produced small bonsai — intended for the gift market - are bad examples of this style.<br /><br />Far Eastern growers seem to think that this is what Westerners believe a tree looks like<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://clk.tradedoubler.com/click?p=66838&amp;a=1629215&amp;g=17314108"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 250px;" src="http://www.sitonline.it/it/images/td/banner_300x250.gif" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">KABUDACHI</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgPOZRHybAI/AAAAAAAAAEo/f0M5qmEVFA8/s1600-h/styles_bonsai_chapter3_html_320c6bd2.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 231px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgPOZRHybAI/AAAAAAAAAEo/f0M5qmEVFA8/s400/styles_bonsai_chapter3_html_320c6bd2.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333333317224918018" border="0" /></a>Any (odd) number of trunks, which must be in a variety of sizes, all growing on the same roots.<br />This may either be created from suckers (shoots arising naturally from the roots) or by cutting off a thick trunk at the base and using the new shoots which spring up from the stump.<br /><br />The trees can be any style. The horticultural advantage of using a clump rather than separate<br />plants is that the ‘trees’ do not compete for water and nutrients.<br /><br />As with the raft and group styles, the trunks should have similar movement and characteristics but must also vary in thickness.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --><br /><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--><br /><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?12211730C270959698T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?12211730C270959698" alt="Dark Orbit 300x250" width="300" align="bottom" border="0" height="250" hspace="1" /></a><br /><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --><br /><br /></div><span style="font-weight: bold;">YOSE-UE</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgPOLoXH6aI/AAAAAAAAAEY/qDLXLVdsFH0/s1600-h/styles_bonsai_chapter3_html_3d258a1c.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 277px; height: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgPOLoXH6aI/AAAAAAAAAEY/qDLXLVdsFH0/s400/styles_bonsai_chapter3_html_3d258a1c.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333333082945087906" border="0" /></a><br />This style may incorporate any number of trunks from seven up to as many as you like.<br />The main interest is in the interplay between the trunks, which should be of different sizes and should be arranged to give the impression of depth and perspective.<br /><br />No three trunks should form a straight line and no trunk should be obscured by another when viewed from the front.<br /><br />The trees in the centre of the group or forest should be the tallest, with the thickest trunks bearing the most foliage.<br /><br />The trunks on the perimeter should lean outward, reaching for the light.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--><br /><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?12211798C1306351348T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?12211798C1306351348" alt="PEC_250x250c.gif" width="250" align="bottom" border="0" height="250" hspace="1" /></a><br /><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --> </style> <table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <col width="128"> <col width="128"> <tbody><tr valign="top"> <td width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Related Post</b></span></span></p> </td> <td rowspan="2" width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --></span></span></p> <p align="center"> <span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--></span></span></p> <div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://www.jdoqocy.com/click-2791513-10635798" target="_top"><img src="http://www.awltovhc.com/image-2791513-10635798" alt="" width="120" border="0" height="600" /></a></span></span></div> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="50%"> <ul><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/secret-art-of-bonsai-revealed.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - The Secret Art of Bonsai Revealed</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/seasonal-care-and-protection.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - Seasonal care and protection</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/acquiring-bonsai-buying-trained-tree.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - Acquiring a Bonsai-buying a trained tree</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/11/bonsai-essentials-fertilizer.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Essentilas: Fertilizer, Nutrient Selection and Major Selection, Organic vs Inorganic</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">10/03 - Bonsai Teacher</a><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">: </a><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">After 23 years of bonsai it was great to see a book that was teaching me new things page after page. 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style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">03/04 - San Carlos de Bariloche is a resort center on the southern shore of Lake Nahuel Huapí</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Dam-The-Nihuil--k1-San-Rafael,-Mendoza-k2-.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/04 - A half hour drive from San Rafael takes the visitor to a heaven of spectacular beauty: Atuel Canyon and the Nihuil Dam</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Nahuel-Huapi-Lake--is-a-lake-of-the-lake-region-of-northern-Patagonia-between-the-provinces-of-R%EDo-Negro-and-Neuqu-e2-n.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/04 - Nahuel Huapi Lake is a lake of the lake region of northern Patagonia between the provinces of Río Negro and Neuquén</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a 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style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Bermuda-Islands.htm">02/03 - Images of </a><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Bermuda-Islands.htm">British Overseas Territory </a></span></span> </p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Greenland.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/02 - Images of Greenland</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Popocat-e2-petl-second-largest-volcano-in-Mexico,-5600-meters-above-sea-level.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/02 - Popocatépetl second largest volcano in Mexico, 5600 meters above sea level</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Spain.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/11 – Images of Spain</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Italy.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/11 – Images of Italy</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Chile.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Chile</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Argentina.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Argentina</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/le-strutture-interne-dellalbero.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Le strutture interne dell'albero</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/sistemazione.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 - Sistemazione</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/insetticidi-fungicidi-e-diserbanti.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Insetticidi, fungicidi e diserbanti</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/wabi-e-sabi.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Wabi and Sabi</span></span></a></p></li></ul></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8231380388266213306-3361766131369263271?l=lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com'/></div>Hobby Bonsaihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-82407903538622405582009-05-07T22:12:00.000-07:002009-05-08T00:33:03.756-07:00Of the two basic methods for shaping a Bonsai tree, pruning is by far the most important<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgPAQhvZtrI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/N9wt6EAa9Wg/s1600-h/40_fotos_bonsai_html_5485e8e5.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 193px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgPAQhvZtrI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/N9wt6EAa9Wg/s200/40_fotos_bonsai_html_5485e8e5.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333317773904426674" border="0" /></a>Groups<br />The planting of groups is essentially the same as that for one tree. However before planting is started, build up a mental picture of the group as it should look when finished. Avoid straight lines either front to back or side to side between two or more trees. In other words, do not have three trees in a row; the effect will be entirely unnatural.<br /><br />Position and secure the main two trees first, the lesser trees are planted to complement and give depth to the larger main trees, securing each tree as it is planted. One can tie in the whole group with string ; going over the whole of the pot. This is not very attractive but might be found easier with complicated groups.<br /><br />This Trident Maple is trained in the clump style and is approx. 45 years old<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?12211730C270959698T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?12211730C270959698" alt="Dark Orbit 300x250" width="300" align="bottom" border="0" height="250" hspace="1" /></a><br /></div><span style="font-weight: bold;">Rock planting</span><br />Some rock such as tuffa, which comes from Derbyshire, can be drilled and chiselled away o form an almost natural pot within the rock itself. The soil mixture for planting a tree in a rock pot is exactly the same as that used for the same variety of tree. If the tree is to straddle the rock-roots growing down the sides into the soil-use a mixture of 50% peat and 50% fine loam. Mix this with water to give a sticky mud. Dampen he rock and apply a thin layer of compost over the face of the rock. Clean and separate the tots of the tree, positioning it so that the main roots run down any available crevices in the Sock. Bury the ends of the roots in the soil (the compost in the pot will be the same as when potting normally).<br /><br />If it is necessary to tie the tree in position this can be done with twine or elastic-covered garden wire, protecting the roots with thin strips of rubber. If it is difficult to secure the wire, small rings of copper can be cemented to the rock surface.After tying in apply an ample layer of peat/loam mix over all exposed roots. To stop rain washing this off, plant moss over the whole planting, securing it with 'V's of copper wire. This will also help to stop evaporation. Always protect rock plantings from bright sunlight and heavy rain for at least a month, spraying the whole planting at least twice a day.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Training</span><br />Of the two basic methods for shaping a Bonsai tree, pruning is by far the most important. This is carried out throughout the life of every Bonsai tree where as wiring to shape is only done when the tree's shape needs to be corrected fairly radically. Even then, it might only be me branch that has moved away from its desired position.<br /><br />A flowering Peach Bonsai approx. 12 years old Pruning<br />Pruning can be divided into three main headings:<br /><br />1) Heavy Branch Pruning:<br />This is a general thinning out of old, diseased, weak, or unnecessary branches that grew the previous year. This should always be carried out during the Autumn, early Winter or early Spring before the sap has begun to flow at full strength. I have used the Samuri Stainless Steel Cutters to great effect over the years(<br /><br />2) General Pruning:<br />This is the pruning carried out throughout every growing season. It is designed to maintain and create shape, thin excessive growth, and produce an abundance of flower buds in flowering trees. Best to use delicate trimming shears to minimise and ancillary damage. General Pruning is also needed to maintain the ever-important balance between the smallness of the root ball and the top growth; if the top is allowed to grow away from this balance the roots will not be able to maintain it in good condition; the roots may rot or die out and a vicious circle can be created-the end result being severe dying-back or even death.<br /><br />3) Leaf Cutting:<br />Leaf cutting is one of the 'secrets' of Bonsai training. In June, providing the tree is in good condition and has been amply fertilised to promote strong healthy growth, some or all the leaves of most deciduous trees can be removed by cutting them away with sharp scissors or defoliating shears.<br /><br />One leaves the petiole or leaf stalk on the tree which, in two to three weeks, withers and drops off. The tree has a false autumn and anew set of leaves and shoots appear. The effect is to produce bushy growth, smaller leaves and much better autumn colouring.<br />The trees most suitable for leaf cutting are the Maple family, Elms, Beech, Birch, etc., but not fruiting or flowering specimens. To find out which trees are best suited for leaf trimmming and get an overview of all the different varieties of Bonsai have a look at "The A-Z of Bonsai"<br /><a href="http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-2791513-10593904" target="_top"><br /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-2791513-10593904" target="_top"><img src="http://www.tqlkg.com/image-2791513-10593904" alt="CallYa 1/15" width="300" border="0" height="250" /></a><br /></div><span style="font-weight: bold;">Wiring</span><br />Wiring is generally considered to be one of the most difficult techniques for shaping Bonsai trees. However, after a little practice on a small branch cut from an ordinary tree its mystery will soon disappear. The most important point to bear in mind is that one mustn't rush-take your time. Before using wire consider the subject from all angles. If it is possible to achieve the desired shape by pruning alone then don't use wire. If wire has to be used choose the gauge that just holds the branch in position-if it is too stiff the wood will tend to bend in and out between the coils.<br /><br />Copper wire (sizes 8 to 24 are generally used, 8 being the largest) that has been annealed in a slow fire is more suitable than iron wire. It does not rust or look unsightly on the tree.Deciduous trees should be wired immediately after their leaves have attained full size when the sap is flowing freely. Wires should only be left on deciduous for a maximum of 6 months.<br /><br />Some trees have very soft bark and the wire should have paper wrapped round it to protect the tree.Evergreen and coniferous trees take longer to become set in position and wires can be left on for 12-18 months. They must always be removed if they start cutting into the bark. Always start wiring from the base of the trunk, burying the wire in the soil to anchor it. After the trunk progress to the largest branches, continuing from large to small until finishing on the topmost smallest branches.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?12211798C1306351348T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?12211798C1306351348" alt="PEC_250x250c.gif" width="250" align="bottom" border="0" height="250" hspace="1" /></a><br /><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></div><div style="text-align: center;"><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --> </style> <table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <col width="128"> <col width="128"> <tbody><tr valign="top"> <td width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Related Post</b></span></span></p> </td> <td rowspan="2" width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --></span></span></p> <p align="center"> <span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--></span></span></p> <div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://www.jdoqocy.com/click-2791513-10635798" target="_top"><img src="http://www.awltovhc.com/image-2791513-10635798" alt="" width="120" border="0" height="600" /></a></span></span></div> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="50%"> <ul><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/secret-art-of-bonsai-revealed.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - The Secret Art of Bonsai Revealed</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/seasonal-care-and-protection.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - Seasonal care and protection</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/acquiring-bonsai-buying-trained-tree.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - Acquiring a Bonsai-buying a trained tree</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/11/bonsai-essentials-fertilizer.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Essentilas: Fertilizer, Nutrient Selection and Major Selection, Organic vs Inorganic</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">10/03 - Bonsai Teacher</a><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">: </a><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">After 23 years of bonsai it was great to see a book that was teaching me new things page after page. 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<ul><li><p style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/A-visit-to-Patagonia-is-an-adventure_travel-rite-of-passage.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">04/04 - A visit to Patagonia is an adventure-travel rite of passage</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Big-Skies-and-Silly-Birds-Abound-in-Argentina%E2%80%99s-Pen%EDnsula-Vald-e2-s.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">03/04 - Big Skies and Silly Birds Abound in Argentina’s Península Valdés</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/San-Carlos-de-Bariloche-is-a-resort-center-on-the-southern-shore-of-Lake-Nahuel-Huap%ED.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">03/04 - San Carlos de Bariloche is a resort center on the southern shore of Lake Nahuel Huapí</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a 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</li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Chile.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Chile</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Argentina.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Argentina</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/le-strutture-interne-dellalbero.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Le strutture interne dell'albero</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/sistemazione.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 - Sistemazione</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/insetticidi-fungicidi-e-diserbanti.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Insetticidi, fungicidi e diserbanti</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/wabi-e-sabi.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Wabi and Sabi</span></span></a></p></li></ul></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8231380388266213306-8240790353862240558?l=lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com'/></div>Hobby Bonsaihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-67278244811935749752009-05-07T22:05:00.001-07:002009-05-08T00:34:27.478-07:00The Importance of the Pot<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgO9yDt4ukI/AAAAAAAAAEI/JRS4UfJ8zlE/s1600-h/7fa81bd5.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SgO9yDt4ukI/AAAAAAAAAEI/JRS4UfJ8zlE/s200/7fa81bd5.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333315051425675842" border="0" /></a>To be called a Bonsai the tree or shrub will have to live within the confines of a pot or container of some sort. To a certain extent the pot has the same function as the frame of a picture; it must show and display the tree to its best advantage.<br /><br />It must not clash or tend to draw one's attention away from the tree. As it must last for at least a year or two, it should be chosen with care. For an example of the types of pots that I have used to rear my bonsai successful click here.<br /><br />It must have at least one good drainage hole in the bottom to allow stale water to seep away and to encourage good air circulation round the roots of the tree. Generally speaking, the colour of the pot is usually subdued. Shades of brown, dark blue, green, black or off-white, are most popular.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?12211730C270959698T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?12211730C270959698" alt="Dark Orbit 300x250" width="300" align="bottom" border="0" height="250" hspace="1" /></a><br /></div>Lighter colours are sometimes used with flowering trees but again the colour must be chosen with care. A Japanese quince would look out of place in a pink or orange pot because of its bright red flowers. The pot may be glazed or unglazed on the outside but it should not be glazed inside as this removes the rough texture of the clay on which the soil grips and holds the tree steady.A strong wind could literally blow a tree completely out of such a pot.<br /><br />If one has difficulty in deciding on the right colour for a particular tree, play safe and pick one that is neutral. For instance, dark brown is suitable for almost any tree. It can always be changed at the time of the next repotting.Apart from the question of colour there is the shape and size to take into account.<br /><br />The basic shapes are round, ectangular, oval, and hexagonal. Others can be more fancy: ponds, petals, etc. Choose the shape of the pot bearing in mind the tree for which it is intended. An upright Cryptomeria would look odd in a pot like a lotus flower, but perfectly at home in a plain rectangular one. Some pots have curved sides, some straight; the top lip may be turned in or out, or it may not have a lip at all; the feet may be "cloud" shaped or completely plain.<br /><br />The height of the container can vary from a flat piece of slate, on which groups of small trees are often planted, to the tall pots, twelve inches or more, used for trees trained in the cascade style. A tall heavy pot would not suit the lightness of a group of maples, being completely out of proportion. In the same way, a cascade tree would give the impression that it was about to fall over if it has been planted at the edge of a very shallow pot. It can be seen that the size of the pot also depends on the tree and its character, as well as the size of the root ball. The rule of thumb is that the cubic capacity of the pot will be approximately a half to one third that of the tree.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Front or Back</span><br />When looking at a bonsai tree it is essential to determine the front. This might sound obvious, but looking at the back of a tree will simply lessen one's pleasure. There are a<br />number of simple ways to ascertain the front. Look at the top of the tree. It is often trained to incline slightly towards the front, giving a certain depth to the tree.<br /><br />The branches will always be at their longest when breaking from the sides of the tree. There will also be well-defined branches growing at the back, though few if any at the<br />front, except near the top. This is simply to allow the form of the trunk to be seen.Very formally trained trees often have branches in sets of three. A tree of this type will have one branch to either side of the trunk and a smaller one at the back: each set going up the trunk and none at all at the lower front. When a planting consists of a number of trees the front is the position from where the viewer gets the best impression of depth and distance. The major trees, always taller, will be planted towards the front of the group.<br /><br />This magnificent 50 year old Mountain Maple clings strongly to a rock When considering the question of front and back be sure to have the tree at almost eye level; looking down on it can be very misleading.<br /><a href="http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-2791513-10593904" target="_top"><br /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-2791513-10593904" target="_top"><img src="http://www.tqlkg.com/image-2791513-10593904" alt="CallYa 1/15" width="300" border="0" height="250" /></a><br /></div><span style="font-weight: bold;">Display</span><br /><br />The majority of bonsai trees are hardy and their natural habitat is the open air. Those that have to be protected from the frost and are looked on more as indoor bonsai will also benefit from a holiday outside in the warmer months. As this is the case, it is worthwhile making a permanent display stand in some quiet comer of the garden.<br /><br />The ideal spot would be against a westerly heldge or fence where they can be seen and are out of reach of inquisitive pets and small children. Having the trees on a stand also makes it easier to tend them and keeps some of the more earthbound insects at bay.<br /><br />The number and size of the trees will determine the size of the stand. For the collector with some six to a dozen trees it would be eight to ten feet in length and about four feet in height. It should be made of good quality wood treated with a wood preservative, or a metal framework and wooden top.<br /><br /> It is inadvisable to put them on a gravel bed as the roots will grow into the gravel through the drainage holes. Incorporating a shelf at the back will increase the surface area and allow smaller trees to be displayed. Above and at the back of the stand a weather shade can be made from strips of thin timber, such as plaster laths or a medium to small grade plastic netting that can be bought from most good garden shops.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.jdoqocy.com/click-2791513-10544216" target="_top"><img src="http://www.ftjcfx.com/image-2791513-10544216" alt="Find your perfect holiday" width="300" border="0" height="250" /></a></div>This will stop hot summer sunshine scorching the leaves of deciduous trees and heavy rain washing the tree from the pot. It will also provide protection from a certain amount of frost. The bottom of the stand can be utilised as a winter storage area by either burying the trees to the rim of the pots or by building another shelf for them just off the ground.<br /><br />The back and sides of this lower part should be enclosed with plywood or some other suitable material. Sliding glazed panels cover the front or a double curtain of heavygrade clear polythene secured at the bottom. On fine sunny days the front should be opened to allow the circulation of air but closed again before evening. This winter protection will only be found necessary in the more exposed parts of the country, or if the less hardy varieties are kept, such as members of the Prunus family.<br /><br />A tool rack might also be incorporated under one end, where it is easily accessible and does not interfere with the trees.However much trouble is taken with the outdoor display the enthusiast will want to admire his trees in the home from time to time. As long as they are kept inside for no more than a few days they will not be harmed in any way.In Japanese homes there is an alcove in the main living room called a Tokonoma. This is a narrow recess, slightly raised above floor level, against one wall. It is used for the display of scrolls, bonsai trees and ikebana flower arrangements, etc. It will be the only place in the room to hold an ornament of any sort-at least this is so in the more traditional homes.<br /><br />If a specimen bonsai tree is the focal point then a simple scroll and either a small bonsai or an ornament-beautifully weathered stones are often used-are displayed with it. These subsidiary objects should not distract one's attention from the principal tree. They are carefully arranged to achieve the triangle the Japanese love so much: that of heaven, earth, and man (heaven is the scroll, the minor object is earth, and man is represented by the bonsai tree in this case).<br /><br />In the West we relax by sitting in deep comfortable armchairs and not on a thin mat on the floor. Therefore we display our bonsai on a higher level. The height of the average table is ideal for most trees, though the smaller ones should be still higher. Apart from this minor difference, the basic spirit of the Japanese display can still be maintained. The essential point to remember is that the tree should be shown with as few distracting objects as possible.<br /><br />It will look out of place next to a cut-glass vase filled with roses, or on top of the television set. Avoiding competition also applies to the background. Heavily-patterned wallpapers can reduce the effect considerably. Natural colours are best: tan, off-white, ochre, etc. The use of secondary objects in the display is really a matter for one's own discretion. They can look extremely effective but large ornaments, or too many, will make a tree look out of place.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?12211798C1306351348T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?12211798C1306351348" alt="PEC_250x250c.gif" width="250" align="bottom" border="0" height="250" hspace="1" /></a><br /><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></div><div style="text-align: center;"><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --> </style> <table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <col width="128"> <col width="128"> <tbody><tr valign="top"> <td width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Related Post</b></span></span></p> </td> <td rowspan="2" width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --></span></span></p> <p align="center"> <span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--></span></span></p> <div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://www.jdoqocy.com/click-2791513-10635798" target="_top"><img src="http://www.awltovhc.com/image-2791513-10635798" alt="" width="120" border="0" height="600" /></a></span></span></div> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="50%"> <ul><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/secret-art-of-bonsai-revealed.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - The Secret Art of Bonsai Revealed</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/seasonal-care-and-protection.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - Seasonal care and protection</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/acquiring-bonsai-buying-trained-tree.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - Acquiring a Bonsai-buying a trained tree</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/11/bonsai-essentials-fertilizer.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Essentilas: Fertilizer, Nutrient Selection and Major Selection, Organic vs Inorganic</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">10/03 - Bonsai Teacher</a><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">: </a><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">After 23 years of bonsai it was great to see a book that was teaching me new things page after page. 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href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Dam-The-Nihuil--k1-San-Rafael,-Mendoza-k2-.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/04 - A half hour drive from San Rafael takes the visitor to a heaven of spectacular beauty: Atuel Canyon and the Nihuil Dam</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Nahuel-Huapi-Lake--is-a-lake-of-the-lake-region-of-northern-Patagonia-between-the-provinces-of-R%EDo-Negro-and-Neuqu-e2-n.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/04 - Nahuel Huapi Lake is a lake of the lake region of northern Patagonia between the provinces of Río Negro and Neuquén</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://worldimages.nirudia.com/9349">28/03 - The Palacio de Cristal is a glass </a><a href="http://worldimages.nirudia.com/9349">pavilion inspired by The Crystal Palace in London</a></span></span></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://worldimages.nirudia.com/9348"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/03 - The Royal Palace of Madrid is the official residence of the King of Spain</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Iguazu-Falls,-in-Iguazu-River,-are-one-of-the-world%5C-h-s-largest-waterfalls.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/03 - Iguazu Falls, in Iguazu River, are one of the world's largest waterfalls</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Andes.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">09/03 - Images of Andes (Argentina)</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Bermuda-Islands.htm">02/03 - Images of </a><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Bermuda-Islands.htm">British Overseas Territory </a></span></span> </p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Greenland.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/02 - Images of Greenland</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Popocat-e2-petl-second-largest-volcano-in-Mexico,-5600-meters-above-sea-level.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/02 - Popocatépetl second largest volcano in Mexico, 5600 meters above sea level</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Spain.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/11 – Images of Spain</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Italy.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/11 – Images of Italy</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Chile.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Chile</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Argentina.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Argentina</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/le-strutture-interne-dellalbero.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Le strutture interne dell'albero</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/sistemazione.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 - Sistemazione</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/insetticidi-fungicidi-e-diserbanti.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Insetticidi, fungicidi e diserbanti</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/wabi-e-sabi.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Wabi and Sabi</span></span></a></p></li></ul></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8231380388266213306-6727824481193574975?l=lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com'/></div>Hobby Bonsaihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-83794541984700746712009-04-28T09:19:00.000-07:002009-04-29T02:08:22.488-07:00The Secret Art of Bonsai Revealed<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/Sfcs2mw2zDI/AAAAAAAAAEA/faBHJHutTuQ/s1600-h/40_fotos_bonsai_html_5485e8e5.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 193px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/Sfcs2mw2zDI/AAAAAAAAAEA/faBHJHutTuQ/s200/40_fotos_bonsai_html_5485e8e5.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5329778000646294578" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">The History of Bonsai</span><br /><br />Although it is possible that the Chinese were the first to start planting small wild trees in pots there is no doubt that it has been the Japanese who have raised the culture of Bonsai trees to the<br />art it is today.<br /><br />Interest in Bonsai goes back many centuries in Japan. The first authentic record is in a picture scroll painted early in the fourteenth century by Takakane Takashina. Originally Bonsai (the word simply means a plant in a tray or container) were more or less confined to grotesque and tortured shapes.<br /><br />After this came the extremely formal pyramidal forms, developing towards the end of the 19th century into softer, more natural forms. Nowadays the majority of trees are trained simply to look like natural trees in miniature. We have come to a time when there is a place for all of Nature’s moods for the Bonsai enthusiast.<br /><br />About the beginning of the 20th century the interest in Bonsai began to spread to the Western<br />world, especially to America. The United States now have many Bonsai societies and clubs.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.tkqlhce.com/click-2791513-10544615"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 324px; height: 188px;" src="https://members.cj.com/member/publisher/creative/10552628.gif" alt="" border="0" /></a>Here in Great Britain we have now caught “bonsai fever” as well. There are many bonsai societies and clubs throughout the country. These all hold regular meetings for discussion and instruction.<br /><br />Some also publish journals and news letters that are informative and interesting.<br /><br />A Trident Maple which has been trained in the clump style and is approx.40 years old The Bonsai Kal and the British Bonsai Association exhibit trees at the Royal Horticultural Society’s<br />halls in Vincent Square, and put on exhibits at the Chelsea Flower Show every year. Bonsai<br />culture is not regarded as an art form in this country but the Japanese Government recognized it as such in 1935. Perhaps we shall reach those dizzy heights one day!<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Appreciation</span><br />Admiration, even love, for Bonsai Trees is not something that can be taught in a few sentences. It will emerge and grow stronger only after some understanding has been reached )if the methods for growing and training these miniature works of art.<br /><br />Art? Yes, for although a Bonsai grower cannot paint a single straight line he chooses a canvas<br />from amongst the hundreds of different species of trees and plants. His hands and tools become<br />the brushes and he has the whole expanse of Nature's different moods for a palette.<br /><br />Furthermore, he helps to create something that is not relatively static. It is very much alive and<br />can continue living for literally hundreds of years; being admired by each succeeding eneration.<br />But although appreciation is essentially personal there are a number of points worth Bearing in<br />mind when considering Bonsai.<br /><br />A bonsai tree in its container is not a contradiction of nature any more than a well-clipped awn or a cordon-trained fruit tree. It is an attempt, however modest, to emulate nature in miniature. Not only will it suggest its counterpart growing in the wild, it will also intimate the landscape in which it could be growing. For instance, a Needle Juniper can also suggest the rugged mountain where it might live: the cold wind keening through its branches and the sudden dart of a golden-eyed lizard across a rock. A group planting of Zelkovas might hint at undulating countryside, small wild flowers, and the sun shining on a meandering stream.<br /><br />Although bonsai trees are small they lose nothing in this. Their lack of size enables one to<br />appreciate every part of them. Seeing a cherry orchard blossoming in the English countryside is a moment to be remembered and treasured. Lovely, but it is impossible fully to appreciate even<br />one of those magnificent trees. On the other hand, a cherry tree trained as a Bonsai still brings<br />forth a profusion of blossom and shows, perhaps for the first time, the perfection to be found in a single flower.<br /><br />A fully wired 40 year old White Pine<br /><br />Missing the details in nature, as most of us tend to do, is no longer necessary with a small<br />collection of bonsai trees. Once Nature's small miracles are seen on one's own trees they will<br />soon be noticed occurring in woodland and countryside throughout the seasons. How often does<br />one notice the candles on a Pine slowly getting longer as the warm weather approaches, until<br />finally the new needles make their tentative advance into the world? Or watch as the Maples<br />gradually assume their autumn colouring?<br /><br />Each bonsai tree is unique in itself, there is no other tree quite like it. Every moment of its life,<br />season by season, can be shared; its crises, when under attack by hoards of voracious insects,<br />and its moments of glory when it radiates health.<br /><br />In Japan the trees are placed on a low display stand, and although genuine stands are hard to<br />come by it is still possible to find the odd one tucked in a corner of an antique shop. Simple rafts of bamboo reeds and slices of tree trunk also make good stands. If one prefers something a little more elaborate, making a dark wood stand should not prove an insurmountable problem to the enthusiast. Although they should not be considered essential, they do provide a finishing touch.<br /><br />A 25 year old Cypress Bonsai growing over a rock<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-2791513-10461107"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 336px; height: 280px;" src="https://members.cj.com/member/publisher/creative/10467810.gif" alt="" border="0" /></a><br />Styles of Bonsai<br />If one reads a Japanese book on Bonsai it might appear that the different styles are rigidly divided. However, it should be realized that they merely serve as a guide and general classification for shows and judging, etc.<br /><br />The first classification is that of size, miniature bonsai up to six inches, small bonsai from six inches to one foot, medium bonsai from one foot to two and a half feet, and large bonsai over three feet. It might be of interest to know that in the Imperial Palace in Tokyo they do have bonsai up to six feet. This is because they are displayed in an extremely large hall, and<br />the average size bonsai, say one foot to eighteen inches, would simply be lost and could not be appreciated.<br /><br />The second classification of bonsai is the angle at which the trunk stands in the pot. Number one is the formal upright style, number two is from upright to approximately 25 degrees from the vertical; then there is the slanting in number three, and the semi-cascade in number four. The full cascade, number five, is trained so that the upper growth of the tree reaches below the<br />rim of the pot.<br /><br />Naturally enough, one can plant more than a single tree in a pot; this is a third classification. It might be noted that the Japanese do not plant an even number of trees in a pot, such a four, six, or eight. Apart from two, they prefer to plant odd numbers, such as three, five, seven and nine. After one has plan ted more than eleven trees in a pot this odd and even difference can be ignored. Although this insistence on planting odd numbers might sound finicky, trying to plant four trees in a group is extremely difficult; the whole planting tends to look unnatural. Apart from this, four is regarded as an unlucky number in Japan.<br /><br />Then one can have more than one trunk emerging from one set of roots; in other words, you can have two or three coming from one root. One can also lay a tree flat in the pot, training the branches to represent a forest. This is called the raft style.<br /><br />The only essential difference between rock plantings and the other styles is that the tree is planted in a cavity of the rock-using the rock as a pot-or with the roots trained over the rock and into the soil. The most important thing about any particular style is that the end result must look natural and balanced.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Watering</span><br />Never let the bonsai tree dry out. In the Summer it might be necessary to water twice a day. In the Winter one might only need to water every fortnight or every month. This depends entirely on the dryness of the soil.<br /><br />As with other plants, bonsai prefer to be watered with rain water, but tap water, that has been allowed to stand over night adjusting its temperature and giving off any chemical content, is perfectly adequate.<br /><br />Use a watering can with a very fine rose or watering nozzle; heavy droplets will tend to wash the soil from the pot and also form a skin over the surface of the soil, which will inhibit the circulation of oxygen to the roots. The best times to water are early morning and late afternoon, avoiding the heat of the an. In the Winter and up to the middle of day, when late frosts<br />sometimes occur, I always water in the morning. It is not a good idea to water in the evening at this time of the year as the tree will not have had time to assimilate the moisture before the frost comes, and too much water in the soil will freeze solid, sometimes fracturing the pot.<br /><br />During the Summer and early Autumn one an switch the main watering to the evening or late<br />afternoon. This is more convenient than the morning. However, try to maintain rhythm of watering; in other words, if you water in the morning, stick to watering in the morning; if you water in the evening, stick to watering in the evening. Believe it or not, a plant almost expects its regular watering; if it doesn't get it, its health can be affected. At the height of the Summer<br />it might be found necessary to water more than twice a day, in which ase the third watering will take place about mid-day.<br /><br />If this is the case, do not water with a watering can as the droplets of water on the leaves of deciduous trees will form a magnifying glass through which the sun will scorch the leaves. To avoid this use a watering nozzle or immerse the pot to the rim in water, allow the soil to assimilate the moisture and then allow the tree to drain off. This method of watering is also<br />very useful for trees that have just been potted as it does not disturb the soil.<br /><br />It must always be remembered that a thorough soaking is better than a few drops given more often. After each watering, the water must be seen to run out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot and only then can one be sure that the moisture has ) penetrated to every part of the root system. The only exception to this is if the tree has been allowed to dry out completely; the soil will then crack away from the sides of the pot, and imply watering overhead with a watering-can will allow the water to slip straight down the ides of the pot and out of the drainage holes. In this case again the method of immersing he pot to the rim should be used, and the soil should be pressed down around the edges so hat it again forms contact with the pot.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.tkqlhce.com/click-2791513-10386792"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 250px;" src="https://members.cj.com/member/publisher/creative/10391783.gif" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">A Final Word</span><br />I hope this booklet has stimulated your interest in Bonsai trees. Although all of us react<br />differently it has been my experience that a hobby like Bonsai has almost limitless<br />possibilities. One can spend hour after hour with them, moving a twig here, cuffing a<br />shoot there.<br /><br />On the other hand it does not take a lifetime of dedicated patience to enjoy<br />the beauty of Bonsai trees; it is certainly possible that the reader has little time to sparethen a few minutes a day can keep a small collection looking cheerful and happy.<br /><br />One can also experiment with many different plants, not just trees and shrubs. The<br />Japanese plant a lot of herbs, grasses, etc. to enjoy during the hot (we hope!) yellow<br />summer months. Why not plant a small collection of so-called weeds in a shallow<br />container? Weeds such as Couch grass, Mare's tail and dandelions can look very<br />effective, either together or by themselves. Once again one can appreciate a part of<br />nature that is usually ignored.<br /><br />Finally the rules of Bonsai culture are not nearly as rigid as they might appear. One can<br />roughly divide them into two categories: the health and vitality of the plant and the<br />aesthetic reproduction of nature in miniature. The first is absolutely essential, it should<br />never be ignored. The second category is basically personal-perhaps you feel the tree<br />looks better with two branches opposing; aesthetically it might be wrong but if you like<br />your tree that way then keep it like that. You can still appreciate the delicate tracery on<br />a newly-opened leaf. Just enjoy the company and life of your Bonsai trees.<br /><br />This is one of many types of Citrus Bonsai, it is 6 years old and stands 30cm tall<br />For further reading on the world of Bonsai click here We are constantly trying to improve the products and services that we offer to you our customers and would welcome any feedback good or bad, it will all be taken on board and if possible we will take action to incorporate your suggestions into the site and this report. Click here to email me your feedback.<br /><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --> </style> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"> <col width="128*"> <col width="128*"> <tbody><tr valign="TOP"> <td width="50%"> <p align="CENTER"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Related Post</b></span></span></p> </td> <td rowspan="2" width="50%"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.tkqlhce.com/click-2791513-10605273"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 120px; height: 600px;" src="https://members.cj.com/member/publisher/creative/10636684.gif" alt="" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="TOP" width="50%"> <ul><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/secret-art-of-bonsai-revealed.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - The Secret Art of Bonsai Revealed</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/seasonal-care-and-protection.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - Seasonal care and protection</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/acquiring-bonsai-buying-trained-tree.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - Acquiring a Bonsai-buying a trained tree</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/11/bonsai-essentials-fertilizer.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Essentilas: Fertilizer, Nutrient Selection and Major Selection, Organic vs Inorganic</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">10/03 - Bonsai Teacher</a><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">: </a><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">After 23 years of bonsai it was great to see a book that was teaching me new things page after page. 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href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/A-visit-to-Patagonia-is-an-adventure_travel-rite-of-passage.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">04/04 - A visit to Patagonia is an adventure-travel rite of passage</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Big-Skies-and-Silly-Birds-Abound-in-Argentina%E2%80%99s-Pen%EDnsula-Vald-e2-s.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">03/04 - Big Skies and Silly Birds Abound in Argentina’s Península Valdés</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/San-Carlos-de-Bariloche-is-a-resort-center-on-the-southern-shore-of-Lake-Nahuel-Huap%ED.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">03/04 - San Carlos de Bariloche is a resort center on the southern shore of Lake Nahuel Huapí</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a 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style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Chile</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Argentina.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Argentina</span></span></a><br /></p></li></ul></td></tr></tbody></table><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --></style><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8231380388266213306-8379454198470074671?l=lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com'/></div>Hobby Bonsaihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-6374246717750640772009-04-28T09:18:00.001-07:002009-04-29T02:12:42.895-07:00Seasonal care and protection<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SfcsWvwCV2I/AAAAAAAAAD4/rNovo8QtSdQ/s1600-h/29cff752.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 155px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SfcsWvwCV2I/AAAAAAAAAD4/rNovo8QtSdQ/s200/29cff752.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5329777453302962018" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">General care</span><br /><br />Contrary to a popular misconception, the first principle of bonsai culture is to maintain the trees in a healthy state. The dwarfing of a tree is not achieved by soil starvation or by having the tree the minimum water necessary. Nor is it necessary to perform strange rites before a bonsai tree. Bonsai trees have similar needs to the oak or the tiny daisy. The essence of their care is continuity and regularity; a few minutes a day is infinitely better than a couple of hours every two weeks.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Fertiliser and humus</span><br />Adding humus to the tree should not be necessary as this vital element in the soil is added then the tree is repotted.<br /><br />Fertiliser should be given at regular intervals from Spring to Autumn. Inorganic fertilisers are not often used with bonsai trees as their action is too sudden. Organic fertilisers have a low<br />continuous action. However, if a tree needs a quick lift then inorganic is preferable.<br /><br />One of the easiest methods of fertilising is to use an organic liquid feed that can be bought from<br />a Garden Centre or a garden shop; it might be added that it is not essential to use Japanese<br />fertiliser such as soya bean mash, rice bran etc. Dilute the liquid feed to the minimum suggested.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.tkqlhce.com/click-2791513-10544615"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 324px; height: 188px;" src="https://members.cj.com/member/publisher/creative/10552628.gif" alt="" border="0" /></a>One generally fertilises at 10-day intervals but this is not to be regarded as exact; if the weather<br />is very wet and one continues to fertilise, it will tend to produce a lot of long sappy growth which will have to be removed from the tree. In this particular instance the fertiliser should be cut down to about every two to three weeks. Watching the tree and applying when it is necessary is much the best.<br /><br />One can also use solid fertilisers, again organic, but as a lot of these tend to form moulds on the soils, or to give off an offensive smell, one will probably find that liquid feeding is the most convenient. If the tree is to be leaf cut (see notes on Training), it should be given a little more fertiliser for three weeks before and after it has been cut. One can also slow down the frequency of the application between the middle of May and the end of June as the trees should be growing vigorously during that period.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Soil</span><br />The tree might be beautifully trained but the effect will be greatly marred by careless treatment<br />of the soil surface. Moss should be encouraged to grow or planted at the time of re-potting. This<br />cuts down excessive evaporation from the soil surface during hot weather, and also stops the<br />soil being washed from the pot during heavy rain. However, it should be thinned out every few<br />months by pulling up a tuft here and there to stop the moss from becoming too packed. All<br />weeds, especially liverwort, should be removed immediately and any small under plantings of<br />rockery plants should be thinned out from time to time.<br /><br />When adding compost be sure that it isn't too fine. If compost is too fine it then cakes up and<br />the Bonsai tree cannot get air and water to the roots. If this happens it can die. Try using a<br />scoop and sieve when applying the compost to avoid this potential problem.<br /><br />Rotting leaves, twigs and general debris should be removed from the soil surface. Not only do<br />they look unsightly but they provide an excellent breeding ground for insects. Apart from moss,<br />one can also decorate the soil surface with small rocks, gravel, pebbles, etc.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Fungus and mildew</span><br />As with other plants Bonsai trees are subject to attack from fungus and mildew. They should<br />always be kept in a light airy position where there is plenty of air circulation and ventilation is<br />good. Immediately one sees either fungus, mildew, or rust on one's trees they should be treated<br />with a proprietary brand of fungicide mixed to the manufacturers' instructions.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Insects</span><br />All insects are not committed to the utter destruction of expensive bonsai trees. Ladybirds, for<br />instance, feed on the young of the aphids. In the soil centipedes-thin and yellowish with a host<br />of legs-are beneficial, whereas wireworms-thin and yellowish with few legs-are enemies; as are<br />millipedes-dark grey with many legs.<br /><br />The insects to be discouraged above the soil are as follows: the Aphid family, green black and<br />woolly (usually seen feeding on the sap of young growth), mealy bugs (tiny scraps of cotton<br />wool in leaf axils), red spider (occasionally seen on warm days on the underside of leaves;<br />leaves attacked turn bronze and drop off), thrips (thunder bugs, small holes and silvery marks<br />on leaves), boring insects (the leopard moth is one; the pupal case might be seen adhering to<br />the trunk or branch attacked), leaf miners (silvery or irregular lines appear on leaves). Other<br />more easily recognised pests are caterpillars, slugs, snails, earwigs, etc.<br /><br />Ants, worms and woodlice do not cause as much damage as the above but they should not be<br />encouraged. Ants disturb soil, encourage aphids, and remove seed from seed trays. They may<br />also disturb soil and block drainage holes. Woodlice live under debris and rubbish and attack<br />seedlings and young growth close to the ground. Neither worms nor woodlice are likely to attack trees if they are kept off the ground. Ants can be discouraged by immersing the whole tree in water for twenty-four hours. Fo rpsecific information on Pests and Insects try "The Art of Indoor Bonsai" or if you want to know which pests are attracted to which trees check out "The A-Z of Bonsai".<br /><br />The best way of discouraging attacks by insects is to maintain the health of the trees and by<br />regular spraying with cold water during the Spring and Summer. Occasionally, however,<br />insecticides are needed, but when these are used they should always be applied at their<br />weakest to avoid damaging young growth.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Seasonal care and protection</span><br />Varieties of bonsai trees that come from tropical and sub tropical climates will have to be protected from even the slightest frost As such they can be kept indoors during the winter months, but they will benefit from periods outside during the summer.<br /><br />Most trees from Japan are hardy and a light frost will not affect them at all. However, continuous severe frost will stop the translocation of water from the roots to the trunk and branches and might also fracture the pots. To avoid this some protection can be given (please refer to chapter on Display). If a display bench, such as the one described in the chapter on<br />Display, is used one should have little need to worry about the extremes of weather that occur throughout the year. However, always be on the lookout for excessively heavy rain, high wind, burning sun, snow, etc., and take the necessary precautions<br />to ensure the health of the trees.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-2791513-10461107"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 336px; height: 280px;" src="https://members.cj.com/member/publisher/creative/10467810.gif" alt="" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Re-potting</span><br />When re-potting most plants one chooses a larger pot to allow for the expansion of the root ball.<br /><br />When Bonsai trees are re-potted the same pot is used unless the tree has been allowed to<br />develop out of proportion to the pot. Generally speaking, trees should only be re-potted when<br />they have become pot-bound. In other words, the roots will have thoroughly penetrated the<br />compost and will be growing out of the drainage holes. If allowed to remain in this condition they will eventually die through simple starvation.<br /><br />The best time for re-potting is in early Spring, through March and early April, though some trees such as Winter Jasmine can be re-potted at almost any time of the year. It is still safer to re-pot in the Spring just before the tree has started to grow. The materials used are (1) small pieces of plastic mesh to cover the drainage holes, (2) garden wire to tie the tree into the pot, (3) gravel or flint chips to act as drainage in the bottom of the pot, (4) sterilised sand, (5) peat and/or leaf mould, and (6) sterilised loam.<br /><br />It is suggested that soil mixtures are made up for three basic types of trees: evergreens,<br />deciduous trees, fruiting and flowering trees. For evergreens a mixture seven parts sterilised<br />loam to three parts sharp sand is ideal. For deciduous trees, use eight parts sterilised loam to<br />two parts sharp sand. For fruiting and flowering trees, use eight parts sterilised loam, one part<br />sharp sand and one part peat or leaf mould. Naturally enough, for individual species in any<br />group, the suggested mixtures might have to be altered to a certain extent: Pines for instance,<br />need faster drainage than Junipers. Therefore an extra part sharp sand would be needed.<br /><br />To remove the tree from the pot, run a sharp knife around the sides of the pot, knock the sides<br />of the pot with the heel of the hand; the tree can then be lifted from the pot. Clean the pot<br />completely, cut pieces of plastic netting to cover the drainage holes, insert the holding wires<br />through the holes, put a layer of flint chips or sterilised gravel on the bottom and a thin layer of<br />compost. Remove all dead roots from the tree and cut back the remaining roots from the sides<br />and the bottom by approximately one to two thirds. This will depend on the age of the tree: the<br />older it is the fewer roots are removed. Position the tree in the pot, moving it gently backwards<br />and forwards to ensure a firm grip with the soil underneath.<br /><br />Tie the tree in with the wire (not too tight), pour the soil mixture in around the sides of the root ball until the pot is full up. Work the soil in around the roots with fingers or a small stick-this is to ensure that there are no air pockets. After putting in the main soil and tamping it down a thin layer of top soil can be used; this can be of a finer grade than that used in the main potting. The tree can then be watered by immersing it to the rim of the pot in a bowl of rain water. When it has been thoroughly soaked, remove it from the water, allow it to drain and protect it for two weeks from harsh sunlight and heavy rain. This will give it a chance to get over the shock of re-potting. During this time do not fertilise it at all. For detailed instructions on how to re-pot your bonsai see "The Art of Indoor Bonsai"<br /><br /><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --> </style> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"> <col width="128*"> <col width="128*"> <tbody><tr valign="TOP"> <td width="50%"> <p align="CENTER"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Related Post</b></span></span></p> </td> <td rowspan="2" width="50%"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.tkqlhce.com/click-2791513-10605273"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 120px; height: 600px;" src="https://members.cj.com/member/publisher/creative/10636684.gif" alt="" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="TOP" width="50%"> <ul><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/secret-art-of-bonsai-revealed.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - The Secret Art of Bonsai Revealed</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/seasonal-care-and-protection.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - Seasonal care and protection</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/acquiring-bonsai-buying-trained-tree.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - Acquiring a Bonsai-buying a trained tree</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/11/bonsai-essentials-fertilizer.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Essentilas: Fertilizer, Nutrient Selection and Major Selection, Organic vs Inorganic</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">10/03 - Bonsai Teacher</a><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">: </a><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">After 23 years of bonsai it was great to see a book that was teaching me new things page after page. 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href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/A-visit-to-Patagonia-is-an-adventure_travel-rite-of-passage.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">04/04 - A visit to Patagonia is an adventure-travel rite of passage</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Big-Skies-and-Silly-Birds-Abound-in-Argentina%E2%80%99s-Pen%EDnsula-Vald-e2-s.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">03/04 - Big Skies and Silly Birds Abound in Argentina’s Península Valdés</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/San-Carlos-de-Bariloche-is-a-resort-center-on-the-southern-shore-of-Lake-Nahuel-Huap%ED.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">03/04 - San Carlos de Bariloche is a resort center on the southern shore of Lake Nahuel Huapí</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Dam-The-Nihuil--k1-San-Rafael,-Mendoza-k2-.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/04 - A half hour drive from San Rafael takes the visitor to a heaven of spectacular beauty: Atuel Canyon and the Nihuil Dam</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Nahuel-Huapi-Lake--is-a-lake-of-the-lake-region-of-northern-Patagonia-between-the-provinces-of-R%EDo-Negro-and-Neuqu-e2-n.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/04 - Nahuel Huapi Lake is a lake of the lake region of northern Patagonia between the provinces of Río Negro and Neuquén</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://worldimages.nirudia.com/9349"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/03 - The Palacio de Cristal is a glass pavilion inspired by The Crystal Palace in London</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a 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style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Chile</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Argentina.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Argentin</span></span></a></p></li></ul></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --></style><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8231380388266213306-637424671775064077?l=lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com'/></div>Hobby Bonsaihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-16676678924297381352009-04-28T09:16:00.001-07:002009-04-29T02:12:27.983-07:00Acquiring a Bonsai-buying a trained tree<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SfcsBx0kodI/AAAAAAAAADw/MwJ8DgFIhmE/s1600-h/4e86274b.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 193px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SfcsBx0kodI/AAAAAAAAADw/MwJ8DgFIhmE/s200/4e86274b.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5329777093081604562" border="0" /></a>With the increasing demand for bonsai trees it is not surprising that more and more garden centres and florists are stocking<br />them.<br /><br />Most of the trees being sold are of an excellent quality, but there are few points to bear in mind when buying. Although<br />bonsai trees imported from the Far East are thought to be expensive, a small tree, say a Mountain Maple or Fig of eight to ten<br />years, can be bought for approximately £20 fully potted up. Naturally enough, one can pay almost anything for a Bonsai, the<br />record price being over £100,000 in Japan for an exceptionally beautiful tree over five hundred years old.<br /><br />Apart from the age and the shape of the tree, its general health is of the utmost importance. The soil should be damp but not sodden unless it has just been watered-certainly not rock-hard and dry. The leaves should look bright and healthy-not burnt around the edges or spotted. If one buys a deciduous tree in the Winter, examine the last year's growth to see that it is<br />smooth and plump, with no sign of the bark wrinkling.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.tkqlhce.com/click-2791513-10544615"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 324px; height: 188px;" src="https://members.cj.com/member/publisher/creative/10552628.gif" alt="" border="0" /></a>The tree should be steady in the container in which it is growing. The container must have at least one drainage hole. Moss growing on the surface can either show that the tree has been in its pot for a number of months or years, or that the dealer has taken some trouble in its repotting. When buying a tree from a shop during the Summer, be sure to give it at least two weeks outside, avoiding heavy rain and high winds, before displaying it inside again.<br /><br />If a tree has been bought from a shop or the show house of a Garden Centre during the Winter, do not allow it to be exposed to the frost for the rest of the season as it will probably have begun to shoot. This is most important with deciduous trees, and whilst varieties of Junipers are very hardy, it is, as well not to take any chances. They will, of course, benefit from the fresh air during milder weather.<br /><br />Trees can be propagated by any of the normal methods; in other words, by seed, cuttings, layering, dividing, air-layering or grafting. Grafting, however, is not used very often as it tends to leave a scar around the trunk for a number of years. To reduce scaring I use Kiyonal Sealant. Kiyonal is the perfect substance for healing wounds on Bonsai. It forms a skin but stays<br />liquid underneath so will not crack away from parts of the wound. It will expand and contract with the different seasons.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Natural free</span><br />In Japan, the most admired bonsai trees are those that Nature has trained herself. Wherever<br />growing conditions are a struggle, the tiny tree that has fought for decades to survive the storms<br />and droughts might be found high in the mountains clinging to a cliff, or yen on a grassy<br />moorland constantly being pruned back by wild deer. When collecting from nature, there three<br />essential rules.<br /><br />1. Find a suitable tree.<br />2. Always have the owner's permission before removing it.<br />3. Be sure that it can be looked after; trees from nature, nlcss little more than seedlings, need<br />almost constant care for the first few months, as the shock of transplanting will be considerable.<br /><br />The best season to lift a wild tree is early Spring-March/April time. The tools needed re a small<br />spade or strong trowel, secateurs, a saw, a strong knife, plastic bags or polythene heeting,<br />Sphagnum moss, scissors, and string.<br /><br />Dig a trench around the tree at the furthest extent of the branches (normal trees usually have<br />roots extending this far; dwarfed trees will often have roots that have been forced to seek out<br />nourishment much further from the main trunk). Avoid cutting roots over half an inch in diameter until the trench has been completed. All roots will be cut so that the cut plants in at the bottom helping to stop moisture lying on the wound. Once the trench is dug, cut all the roots over half an inch in diameter. If the soil is firm, grasp the root ball in both iands and gently rock it to and fro.<br /><br />If there is no tap root the tree can be lifted almost straight out; otherwise the tap root should be<br />cut down as low as possible.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Inside or out?</span><br />The idea that bonsai trees can be permanent house guests is a fallacy that should never have<br />arisen. Most of them are hardy trees and shrubs whose natural homes is the open air. Others,<br />that come from the tropics and sub tropics. need protecting from the frost and these should be<br />kept in a warm environment during the winter months.<br /><br />This can either be your house or a warm greenhouse. However even these need to go outside as much as possible during the summer months. Hardy bonsai trees should never be brought in the house for longer than a few days at a time. To extend the tree's stay inside for longer than four or five days can cause injury to the tree. In the Summer the plant must be able to carry out the process of photosynthesis: this is The production of plant food and oxygen from carbon dioxide when the sun activates the chlorophyll in the leaves.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-2791513-10461107"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 336px; height: 280px;" src="https://members.cj.com/member/publisher/creative/10467810.gif" alt="" border="0" /></a>During the Winter the plant is resting and building up reserves of energy for the coming growing season. Too long in a warm room will persuade it to start shooting as though it were Spring. But this does not apply to trees from the tropics that need an approximate minimum winter temperature of 5degrees F or 1 degree C, although temperatures in excess of 7OF or 2C can be detrimental. 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href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Dam-The-Nihuil--k1-San-Rafael,-Mendoza-k2-.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/04 - A half hour drive from San Rafael takes the visitor to a heaven of spectacular beauty: Atuel Canyon and the Nihuil Dam</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Nahuel-Huapi-Lake--is-a-lake-of-the-lake-region-of-northern-Patagonia-between-the-provinces-of-R%EDo-Negro-and-Neuqu-e2-n.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/04 - Nahuel Huapi Lake is a lake of the lake region of northern Patagonia between the provinces of Río Negro and Neuquén</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://worldimages.nirudia.com/9349"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/03 - The Palacio de Cristal is a glass pavilion inspired by The Crystal Palace in London</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://worldimages.nirudia.com/9348"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/03 - The Royal Palace of Madrid is the official residence of the King of Spain</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Iguazu-Falls,-in-Iguazu-River,-are-one-of-the-world%5C-h-s-largest-waterfalls.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/03 - Iguazu Falls, in Iguazu River, are one of the world's largest waterfalls</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Andes.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">09/03 - Images of Andes (Argentina)</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Bermuda-Islands.htm">02/03 - Images of </a><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Bermuda-Islands.htm">British Overseas Territory </a></span></span> </p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Greenland.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/02 - Images of Greenland</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Popocat-e2-petl-second-largest-volcano-in-Mexico,-5600-meters-above-sea-level.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/02 - Popocatépetl second largest volcano in Mexico, 5600 meters above sea level</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Spain.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/11 – Images of Spain</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Italy.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/11 – Images of Italy</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Chile.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Chile</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Argentina.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Argentin</span></span></a></p></li></ul></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --></style><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8231380388266213306-1667667892429738135?l=lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com'/></div>Hobby Bonsaihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-52725395116304249412009-03-10T07:02:00.000-07:002009-05-08T00:43:37.261-07:00Classic Bonsai Styles, Chatper 2<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbZzb922ARI/AAAAAAAAADI/9Y3fs9dDrWo/s1600-h/Classic_Bonsai_Styles,+Chapter_II_html_39d20769.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 211px; height: 320px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbZzb922ARI/AAAAAAAAADI/9Y3fs9dDrWo/s320/Classic_Bonsai_Styles,+Chapter_II_html_39d20769.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311559734828335378" border="0" /></a>KENGAI<br /><br />The difference between this style and the semi-cascade is thathere the trunk must fall below the base of the pot.<br /><br />All other criteria are the same.<br /><br />Good cascades are rare because of the difficulty in maintainingvigour in the lower parts of the tree, opposing its natural urgeto grow upwards.<br /><br />This is probably the most difficult of all styles to designconvincingly, partly because of the horticultural problem, butmainly because we have few natural examples to recall asinspiration.<br /><br />It is important to include dramatic features and sharp angles to evoke the feeling of a tree clinging to life in the harsh mountain conditions.<br /></span><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" lang="en-US"><span style="font-size:100%;"><a href="http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-2791513-10593904" target="_top"><img src="http://www.tqlkg.com/image-2791513-10593904" alt="CallYa 1/15" width="300" border="0" height="250" /></a></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" align="justify"><span style="font-size:100%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbZznYzmzqI/AAAAAAAAADQ/2OIeY4jx6SQ/s1600-h/Classic_Bonsai_Styles,+Chapter_II_html_m7b952c7d.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 183px; height: 320px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbZznYzmzqI/AAAAAAAAADQ/2OIeY4jx6SQ/s320/Classic_Bonsai_Styles,+Chapter_II_html_m7b952c7d.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311559931041074850" border="0" /></a></span></p> SHARIMIKI<br /><br />Echoing the natural appearance of mountain junipers, whichproduce areas of bare, sun-bleached wood as they age, this styleis seldom successfully created from other species.<br /><br />The focal point is the beautiful and dramatic shapes of the grainin the exposed wood.<br /><br />These shapes may be natural but are more often elaboratelycarved and then bleached and preserved with lime-sulphur.<br /><br />The foliage masses, although acknowledging some of the rulesof other styles, serve more as a foil or frame to the driftwood.<br /><br />This style is suitable for conifers and rarely, if ever, applied todeciduous species of bonsai tree.<br /><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" align="justify"><span style="font-size:100%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbZzytoMyiI/AAAAAAAAADY/MUVHGDejUtQ/s1600-h/Classic_Bonsai_Styles,+Chapter_II_html_m643838cf.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 206px; height: 320px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbZzytoMyiI/AAAAAAAAADY/MUVHGDejUtQ/s320/Classic_Bonsai_Styles,+Chapter_II_html_m643838cf.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311560125608938018" border="0" /></a></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: center; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" lang="en-US"><a href="http://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-2791513-10544615" target="_top"><img src="http://www.tqlkg.com/image-2791513-10544615" alt="" width="324" border="0" height="188" /></a></p>HOKIDACHI<br /><br />This style was modelled on the natural habit of the zelkova andis seldom successfully used for other than related species, sinceit works best with trees bearing alternate foliage.<br /><br />All branches should emerge from the top of a straight trunk andfork at regularly diminishing internals until a network of fineshoots at the tips forms an even-domed crown.<br /><br />For broom styles to work well, they must be perfectly symmetricaland meticulously trained and pruned to ensure an even andgradual transition from trunk, through heavy branches, to thefinest terminal shoots.<br /><br />Trying to rush the development will always end indisappointment.<br /><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" align="justify"><span style="font-size:100%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbZz-lNSdoI/AAAAAAAAADg/fD_dF92UhgE/s1600-h/Classic_Bonsai_Styles,+Chapter_II_html_m3461af08.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 170px; height: 320px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbZz-lNSdoI/AAAAAAAAADg/fD_dF92UhgE/s320/Classic_Bonsai_Styles,+Chapter_II_html_m3461af08.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311560329507010178" border="0" /></a></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" align="justify" lang="en-US"><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /></span></p><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://clk.tradedoubler.com/click?p=66838&amp;a=1629215&amp;g=17314108"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 250px;" src="http://www.sitonline.it/it/images/td/banner_300x250.gif" alt="" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">BUNJINGI</span><br /><br />This style is reminiscent of ancient pines, which tend to shedtheir lower branches as they get old.<br /><br />It gets its name from the calligraphic style of ancient Chineseartists.<br /><br />The focal point of the design is the trunk, so it should be full ofcharacter.<br /><br />The branches are limited to the uppermost part of the trunk andshould bear just enough foliage to keep the tree healthy and vigorous.<br /><br />The foliage should, however, be immaculately positioned.<br /><br />The pots used for literati styles are generally round andcomparatively small to balance the sparse foliage.<br /><br />They are also frequently’rustic’ in appearance, to re ect thetree’s rocky habitat.<br /><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" align="justify"><span style="font-size:100%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbZ0GJnwSFI/AAAAAAAAADo/KHLn5bW8FLQ/s1600-h/Classic_Bonsai_Styles,+Chapter_II_html_m2bb16502.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 189px; height: 320px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbZ0GJnwSFI/AAAAAAAAADo/KHLn5bW8FLQ/s320/Classic_Bonsai_Styles,+Chapter_II_html_m2bb16502.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311560459540777042" border="0" /></a></span></p> <div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?12211730C270959698T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?12211730C270959698" alt="Dark Orbit 300x250" width="300" align="bottom" border="0" height="250" hspace="1" /></a><br /></div><span style="font-weight: bold;">SEKIJÔJU</span><br /><br />In rocky terrain the scarce soil is constantly being eroded,<br /><br />exposing the rocks and the roots of the trees growing amongstthem.<br /><br />This style depicts such a tree whose roots, as they thicken, clingto any rocks beneath them.<br /><br />The tree itself can be of any style, although broom and formalupright styles look out of place.<br /><br />The most important factor is that the roots should cling tightlyto the rock and should have a mature texture.<br /><br />This can take many years to accomplish.<br /><br />First, the root-covered rock must first be planted in the groundfor several seasons to consolidate, and then exposed to the airand sun for the bark to develop mature characteristics.<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?12211798C1306351348T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?12211798C1306351348" alt="PEC_250x250c.gif" width="250" align="bottom" border="0" height="250" hspace="1" /></a><br /><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></div><div style="text-align: center;"><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --> </style> <table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <col width="128"> <col width="128"> <tbody><tr valign="top"> <td width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Related Post</b></span></span></p> </td> <td 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href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Dam-The-Nihuil--k1-San-Rafael,-Mendoza-k2-.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/04 - A half hour drive from San Rafael takes the visitor to a heaven of spectacular beauty: Atuel Canyon and the Nihuil Dam</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Nahuel-Huapi-Lake--is-a-lake-of-the-lake-region-of-northern-Patagonia-between-the-provinces-of-R%EDo-Negro-and-Neuqu-e2-n.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/04 - Nahuel Huapi Lake is a lake of the lake region of northern Patagonia between the provinces of Río Negro and Neuquén</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://worldimages.nirudia.com/9349">28/03 - The Palacio de Cristal is a glass </a><a href="http://worldimages.nirudia.com/9349">pavilion inspired by The Crystal Palace in London</a></span></span></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://worldimages.nirudia.com/9348"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/03 - The Royal Palace of Madrid is the official residence of the King of Spain</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Iguazu-Falls,-in-Iguazu-River,-are-one-of-the-world%5C-h-s-largest-waterfalls.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/03 - Iguazu Falls, in Iguazu River, are one of the world's largest waterfalls</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Andes.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">09/03 - Images of Andes (Argentina)</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Bermuda-Islands.htm">02/03 - Images of </a><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Bermuda-Islands.htm">British Overseas Territory </a></span></span> </p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Greenland.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/02 - Images of Greenland</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Popocat-e2-petl-second-largest-volcano-in-Mexico,-5600-meters-above-sea-level.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/02 - Popocatépetl second largest volcano in Mexico, 5600 meters above sea level</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Spain.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/11 – Images of Spain</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Italy.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/11 – Images of Italy</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Chile.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Chile</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Argentina.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Argentina</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/le-strutture-interne-dellalbero.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Le strutture interne dell'albero</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/sistemazione.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 - Sistemazione</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/insetticidi-fungicidi-e-diserbanti.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Insetticidi, fungicidi e diserbanti</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/wabi-e-sabi.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Wabi and Sabi</span></span></a></p></li></ul></td></tr></tbody></table></div><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8231380388266213306-5272539511630424941?l=lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com'/></div>Hobby Bonsaihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-16770632558037393282009-03-08T03:24:00.000-07:002009-05-08T00:44:59.131-07:00Classic Bonsai Styles, Chapter 1<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbOdhsFtpVI/AAAAAAAAACY/CXmqQriHu7o/s1600-h/Classic_Bonsai_Styles_html_31b8e4c1.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 238px; height: 320px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbOdhsFtpVI/AAAAAAAAACY/CXmqQriHu7o/s320/Classic_Bonsai_Styles_html_31b8e4c1.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5310761587696313682" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">MOYOGI</span><br /><br />This is a variation on the formal upright style but is much easier to create. The rules for the branch structure are the same but the trunk may have any number of curves, both from left to right and from front to back. The branches should ideally grow from the outside of the curvesand never on the inside as this creates a shock to the eye. The apex should lean towards the front. <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></span></span> </p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></span></span></p>The tree illustrated is just one of the many variations on the informal upright style. Unlike the Formal Upright, Moyogi works equally as well with deciduous and coniferous species.<!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --><br /><div style="text-align: center;"> <!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--><br /><a href="http://www.jdoqocy.com/click-2791513-10544216" target="_top"><img src="http://www.ftjcfx.com/image-2791513-10544216" alt="Find your perfect holiday" width="300" border="0" height="250" /></a><br /><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbOhNp0JvOI/AAAAAAAAACo/-1VHo4mAafs/s1600-h/Classic_Bonsai_Styles_html_3b206cc1.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 182px; height: 320px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbOhNp0JvOI/AAAAAAAAACo/-1VHo4mAafs/s320/Classic_Bonsai_Styles_html_3b206cc1.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5310765641534913762" border="0" /></a></div> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"></p><span style="font-weight: bold;">CHOKKAN</span><br /><br />As the name implies, this is the most formalised of all styles. The trunk must be ramrod straight and bolt upright, tapering uniformly from base to tip. The branches should be arranged alternately either side of the trunk with every third branch to the rear.<br /><br />The branches should diminish in thickness and in length from the lowest one upwards, and should be either horizontal or sloping downwards. Ideally, the spaces between the branches should also diminish toward the top of the tree, in proportion to their thickness and length.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--><br /><a href="http://www.kqzyfj.com/click-2791513-10486084" target="_top"><img src="http://www.awltovhc.com/image-2791513-10486084" alt="uBid Computer Auctions" width="300" border="0" height="250" /></a><br /><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbOhf64d99I/AAAAAAAAACw/-sYd_evzjB8/s1600-h/Classic_Bonsai_Styles_html_2a461666.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 195px; height: 320px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbOhf64d99I/AAAAAAAAACw/-sYd_evzjB8/s320/Classic_Bonsai_Styles_html_2a461666.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5310765955354064850" border="0" /></a></div> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></span></span></p><span style="font-weight: bold;">SHAKAN</span><br /><br />Another variation on the formal upright style, except that it is not upright. The trunk is usually straight-ish, although it may have a gentle curve or two. The placement of the branches needs to be carefully thought out in order to stabilise the design and to prevent the tree looking as if it is about to fall over.<br /><br />Unlike the previous two styles, the number and placement of the branches is less crucial, providing the opportunity for creativity. For instance, using only the top branches and training them down steeply can result in a dramatic image.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?12211730C270959698T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?12211730C270959698" alt="Dark Orbit 300x250" width="300" align="bottom" border="0" height="250" hspace="1" /></a><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbOh3ZckACI/AAAAAAAAAC4/6_7AUcYFNfE/s1600-h/Classic_Bonsai_Styles_html_ad2e3a7.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 254px; height: 320px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbOh3ZckACI/AAAAAAAAAC4/6_7AUcYFNfE/s320/Classic_Bonsai_Styles_html_ad2e3a7.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5310766358695510050" border="0" /></a> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></span></span></p><span style="font-weight: bold;">FUKINAGASHI</span><br /><br />Although this is one of the more naturalistic styles, it is also one of the most dramatic. The aim is to capture the dynamic shape and movement of a tree living high in the mountains or on a clifftop, where it is constantly exposed to high prevailing winds.<br /><br />There are no rules governing the trunk shape or location of branches, but in spite of this freedom this is one of the most difficult styles to create successfully. The difficulty lies in making the image appear authentic, rather than merely looking like a tree with branches on one side.<br /><br />The trick is to ensure that the windswept effect begins at the base of the trunk and is re ected in every aspect of the tree.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://clk.tradedoubler.com/click?p=66838&amp;a=1629215&amp;g=17314108"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 250px;" src="http://www.sitonline.it/it/images/td/banner_300x250.gif" alt="" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbOiNNqPXNI/AAAAAAAAADA/ZI8C1uVPvcs/s1600-h/Classic_Bonsai_Styles_html_47dfd935.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 271px; height: 320px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbOiNNqPXNI/AAAAAAAAADA/ZI8C1uVPvcs/s320/Classic_Bonsai_Styles_html_47dfd935.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5310766733488774354" border="0" /></a> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></span></span></p><span style="font-weight: bold;">HAN-KENGAI</span><br /><br />Both this style and the cascade style depict trees clinging to a cliff face, where they are beaten by snow, wind and rockfalls. The trunk should have dramatic curves and taper, and the branches should ideally also cascade from the trunk. Tradition states that the inverted ‘apex’ should be positioned directly below the base of the trunk when the tree is viewed from the ‘front’, but this can inhibit the design somewhat.<br /><br />These days it’s perfectly acceptable to allow the lowest point of the tree to be placed to one side of the pot, as if it was reaching out from a cliff face to find light. The one unbreakable rule is that the lowest point must be below the rim of the pot, but not its base.<br /><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?12211798C1306351348T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?12211798C1306351348" alt="PEC_250x250c.gif" width="250" align="bottom" border="0" height="250" hspace="1" /></a><br /><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></div><div style="text-align: center;"><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --> </style> <table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <col width="128"> <col width="128"> <tbody><tr valign="top"> <td width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Related Post</b></span></span></p> </td> <td rowspan="2" width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --></span></span></p> <p align="center"> <span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--></span></span></p> <div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://www.jdoqocy.com/click-2791513-10635798" target="_top"><img src="http://www.awltovhc.com/image-2791513-10635798" alt="" width="120" border="0" height="600" /></a></span></span></div> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="50%"> <ul><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/secret-art-of-bonsai-revealed.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - The Secret Art of Bonsai Revealed</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/seasonal-care-and-protection.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - Seasonal care and protection</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/acquiring-bonsai-buying-trained-tree.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - Acquiring a Bonsai-buying a trained tree</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/11/bonsai-essentials-fertilizer.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Essentilas: Fertilizer, Nutrient Selection and Major Selection, Organic vs Inorganic</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">10/03 - Bonsai Teacher</a><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">: </a><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">After 23 years of bonsai it was great to see a book that was teaching me new things page after page. 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GIF" width="468" align="bottom" border="0" height="60" hspace="1" /></a><br /><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr valign="top"> <td rowspan="2" width="50%"> <a href="http://www.jdoqocy.com/click-2791513-10378254" target="_top"> </a><p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://www.jdoqocy.com/click-2791513-10378254" target="_top"><img src="http://www.ftjcfx.com/image-2791513-10378254" alt="Items in Bulk" width="120" border="0" height="600" /></a></span></span></p> </td> <td width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>My Favorites</b></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="50%"><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><ul><li><p style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/A-visit-to-Patagonia-is-an-adventure_travel-rite-of-passage.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">04/04 - A visit to Patagonia is an adventure-travel rite of passage</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Big-Skies-and-Silly-Birds-Abound-in-Argentina%E2%80%99s-Pen%EDnsula-Vald-e2-s.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">03/04 - Big Skies and Silly Birds Abound in Argentina’s Península Valdés</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/San-Carlos-de-Bariloche-is-a-resort-center-on-the-southern-shore-of-Lake-Nahuel-Huap%ED.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">03/04 - San Carlos de Bariloche is a resort center on the southern shore of Lake Nahuel Huapí</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Dam-The-Nihuil--k1-San-Rafael,-Mendoza-k2-.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/04 - A half hour drive from San Rafael takes the visitor to a heaven of spectacular beauty: Atuel Canyon and the Nihuil Dam</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Nahuel-Huapi-Lake--is-a-lake-of-the-lake-region-of-northern-Patagonia-between-the-provinces-of-R%EDo-Negro-and-Neuqu-e2-n.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/04 - Nahuel Huapi Lake is a lake of the lake region of northern Patagonia between the provinces of Río Negro and Neuquén</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://worldimages.nirudia.com/9349">28/03 - The Palacio de Cristal is a glass </a><a href="http://worldimages.nirudia.com/9349">pavilion inspired by The Crystal Palace in London</a></span></span></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://worldimages.nirudia.com/9348"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/03 - The Royal Palace of Madrid is the official residence of the King of Spain</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Iguazu-Falls,-in-Iguazu-River,-are-one-of-the-world%5C-h-s-largest-waterfalls.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/03 - Iguazu Falls, in Iguazu River, are one of the world's largest waterfalls</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Andes.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">09/03 - Images of Andes (Argentina)</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Bermuda-Islands.htm">02/03 - Images of </a><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Bermuda-Islands.htm">British Overseas Territory </a></span></span> </p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Greenland.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/02 - Images of Greenland</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Popocat-e2-petl-second-largest-volcano-in-Mexico,-5600-meters-above-sea-level.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/02 - Popocatépetl second largest volcano in Mexico, 5600 meters above sea level</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Spain.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/11 – Images of Spain</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Italy.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/11 – Images of Italy</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Chile.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Chile</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Argentina.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Argentina</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/le-strutture-interne-dellalbero.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Le strutture interne dell'albero</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/sistemazione.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 - Sistemazione</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/insetticidi-fungicidi-e-diserbanti.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Insetticidi, fungicidi e diserbanti</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/wabi-e-sabi.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Wabi and Sabi</span></span></a></p></li></ul></td></tr></tbody></table></div><br /><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></span></span></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8231380388266213306-1677063255803739328?l=lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com'/></div>Hobby Bonsaihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-34885340881776361342009-03-08T01:44:00.001-08:002009-05-08T00:39:33.136-07:00Displaying Your Bonsai Outdoors<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 128px; height: 128px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRakFEA4FzI/AAAAAAAAABI/DN3sh6OvrQU/s200/rss_green_subscribe.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266577221140092722" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbOTrKGoi3I/AAAAAAAAACA/kN3ZMLrJk30/s1600-h/40_fotos_bonsai_html_m67f4d1a4.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 163px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbOTrKGoi3I/AAAAAAAAACA/kN3ZMLrJk30/s200/40_fotos_bonsai_html_m67f4d1a4.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5310750755255782258" border="0" /></a>Displaying Your Bonsai Outdoors aesthetics and bonsai should be displayed in an uncluttered environment where the details of the plant Remember that simplicity is very important in Japanese can be appreciated. This is, after all, a wonder of nature trees and shrubs made miniature. Gravel beds in the garden are good backgrounds for bonsai outdoors, and a simple stand or table before a blank wall makes an appropriate setting indoors.<br /><br />Make sure that the front view faces the viewer. Your beautiful bonsai can greatly benefit by the right setting.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Outdoor Display</span><br />If you grow just a few bonsai plants, you will have no problem displaying them. All you need is something that elevates the pots so that you can view them from the front rather than from the top down. A patio bench, for example, will accommodate one or several bonsai plants, and can also define the edge of a deck or serve as seating.<!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--><br /><a href="http://www.jdoqocy.com/click-2791513-10544216" target="_top"><img src="http://www.ftjcfx.com/image-2791513-10544216" alt="Find your perfect holiday" width="300" border="0" height="250" /></a><br /><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --><br /></div><span style="font-weight: bold;">Benches and Shelves</span><br />You can put together a simple bonsai bench in a matter of minutes. Select a sturdy wooden plank, such as a 2 x 12, and raise it on concrete blocks, bricks, or flat stones. If you use slats (2 x 2’s, or 2 x 4’s) instead of a single plank, water will drain through the bench. If you display bonsai on helves placed against a wall or fence, remember that the heat reflection from lightcolored walls can seriously damage bonsai plants in the summer.<br />Make sure these displays are sheltered from direct sun during the warmest part of the day, usually late morning through afternoon.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbOXWVRh5MI/AAAAAAAAACI/RXRxIDMSkZ4/s1600-h/40_fotos_bonsai_html_137ed09f.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 261px; height: 320px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbOXWVRh5MI/AAAAAAAAACI/RXRxIDMSkZ4/s320/40_fotos_bonsai_html_137ed09f.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5310754795523531970" border="0" /></a></div><span style="font-weight: bold;">Tables</span><br />Outdoor tables will certainly hold a collection of bonsais trees, but they may not display them to their best advantage as all the pots rest on the<br />same level. If you do keep your collection on a table, choose one just wide enough for three plants, then place the larger specimens in the center, with smaller plants on the outside rows. Stagger placement so that no plant is directly behind another one. For better display, construct a unit along the lines of a patio table that has built-in benches. Make the center section (table) just wide enough to hold a single or double row of plants; the two<br />lower sections (benches) can be just a bit wider to show off a number of smaller specimens on each side.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Outdoor Bonsai Maintenance Tips</span><br />• Don’t crowd bonsai plants. You should leave about 8 - 12 inches of space between the outspread branches of adjacent plants so that each plant can develop independently.<br />• Make sure the plants receive at least morning sun, more if climate permits. This is particularly important in spring when plants are putting out new growth.<br />• Rotate containers about a quarter turn in the same direction every other week to expose all sides to the same conditions. Otherwise, new growth will be strongest on the side facing the light while roots will tend to grow away from the sun.<br /><br />The exquisite beauty of a bonsai tree well trained in a simple style, and growing vibrantly in a pot of suitable size and shape, can be the<br />focus of many happy hours of contemplation.<br /><br />Specimens placed too close to a wall or fence can become onesided as rear branches dwindle from lack of light.<br />• Rotating small containers is easy; turning larger specimens is more difficult. Use a lazy susan-type turntable, and you’ll be able to turn the largest bonsai with the push of a finger.<br /><br />Display Stands &amp; Winter Shelter Display Stands. Keeping your collection of bonsai trees on a stand makes them easier to work with and to see, and gives protection from extremes of weather. The large design on the left is simple to build from wood, having a shade of timber battens and a slatted bench-top.<br /><br />There is a shelf for miniature bonsai at the back and a tool drawer under the bench. In severe weather, the trees can be placed under the bench<br />and enclosed with heavygauge clear plastic sheeting (shown rolled).<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Building A Display Stand.</span><br />The number of trees in your bonsai collection will determine the size of the stand. When calculating the dimensions, be sure to allow each tree plenty of space, and remember that small as they are, they do grow. To allow for easier working, the stand should be made a little higher than an indoor table. It should be made of good quality wood, treated with a preservative, or it could have a metal frame with a wooden top.<br /><br />The trees can be placed on a gravel bed, as this cuts down on the need to water; but in this case they should be lifted every now and then to make sure the roots are not growing into the gravel. Above the stand, around the sides and at the back, a weather-shade of thin timber laths or canes should be made. Each strip should be secured an inch apart. This will help protect the trees from all extremes: hot sunlight, heavy rain, high winds, and even a certain amount of frost. For harder winter conditions the bottom of the stand can be enclosed and the trees placed inside.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Winter Care</span><br />Container plantings of any kind are more subject to damage from cold than plants growing in the ground. Containers just don’t hold enough soil to insulate plant roots. Where winter temperatures are frost free or relatively mild (above 20F or -7C) you can leave a bonsai outside if its normal display area is protected from wind.<br /><br />Spreading straw or mulch around the pots also helps insulate the soil. An unheated greenhouse is ideal as a winter shelter since the plants receive good light, are somewhat protected from the cold, and with a door ajar or vents opened slightly, get plenty of air. You can devise a polyethylene plastic and wood greenhouse by extending a leanto from under house eaves. Leave all or part of one end open, unless winters are severe.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--><br /><a href="http://www.kqzyfj.com/click-2791513-10486084" target="_top"><img src="http://www.awltovhc.com/image-2791513-10486084" alt="uBid Computer Auctions" width="300" border="0" height="250" /></a><br /><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --><br /><br /></div><span style="font-weight: bold;">Building A Cold Frame</span><br />With just a bit more effort you can build a simple cold frame - essentially a low greenhouse with a translucent hinged top. Placed against a south-facing wall and recessed into the ground it will keep plants dormant but not frozen (unless you live in the colder regions of Canada, for example).<br /><br />Dig a rectangle about six to eight inches deep beside the wall. Using scrap lumber or plywood, build a frame with sides the slope down toward the front; a six inch slope is sufficient. Make sure the front is high enough (about 18 inches) to accommodate your shortest bonsai. Then set the frame againt the wall and spread 3 - 4 inches of gravel in the bottom.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbOXlO7VI1I/AAAAAAAAACQ/MBsuT-y7Zdo/s1600-h/5c3dc52e.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 310px; height: 320px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SbOXlO7VI1I/AAAAAAAAACQ/MBsuT-y7Zdo/s320/5c3dc52e.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5310755051517846354" border="0" /></a></div>Traditionally, old window Wind-swept style bonsai sashes formed the tops of cold frames, but you can also use clear plastic, fiberglass, or olyethylene plastic sheeting. In snowy areas, first cover the fame with fine mesh chicken wire or hardware cloth. Place the bonsai on the gravel base and surround and cover the pots lightly with straw. Close the lid for protection from extreme cold, opening it slightly for ventilation when the temperature is above freezing.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Winter Watering</span><br />During freezing weather, water your bonsai (if they need it) in the morning. This allows excess water to drain out before the temperature drops. Water-soaked soil expands as it freezes, which can cause containers to crack.<p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br /><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--><br /><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?12211798C1306351348T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?12211798C1306351348" alt="PEC_250x250c.gif" width="250" align="bottom" border="0" height="250" hspace="1" /></a><br /><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></p><div style="text-align: center;"><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --> </style> <table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <col width="128"> <col width="128"> <tbody><tr valign="top"> <td width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Related Post</b></span></span></p> </td> <td rowspan="2" width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --></span></span></p> <p align="center"> <span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--></span></span></p> <div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://www.jdoqocy.com/click-2791513-10635798" target="_top"><img src="http://www.awltovhc.com/image-2791513-10635798" alt="" width="120" border="0" height="600" /></a></span></span></div> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="50%"> <ul><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/secret-art-of-bonsai-revealed.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - The Secret Art of Bonsai Revealed</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/seasonal-care-and-protection.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - Seasonal care and protection</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/04/acquiring-bonsai-buying-trained-tree.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/04 - Acquiring a Bonsai-buying a trained tree</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/11/bonsai-essentials-fertilizer.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Essentilas: Fertilizer, Nutrient Selection and Major Selection, Organic vs Inorganic</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">10/03 - Bonsai Teacher</a><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">: </a><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">After 23 years of bonsai it was great to see a book that was teaching me new things page after page. 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</li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/using-artificial-bonsai-to-decorate.html">30/10 – Using Artificial Bonsai to Decorate Your House</a></span></span></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/life-of-flowering-bonsai.html">30/10 – The Life of a Flowering Bonsai</a></span></span></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/bonsai-care-what-to-consider-when.html">30/10 – Bonsai Care: What to Condiser When Lookin After Your Plants</a></span></span></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/chicago-botanic-gardens-bonsai.html">30/10 – The Chicago Botanic Garden's Bonsai Collection is Regarded by Bonsai Experts as one of the Best Public Collections in the World</a></span></span></p> </li></ul> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" valign="top" width="100%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --></span></span></p> <p align="center"> <span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?10548723C267916427T"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--></a><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?12211892C1508942190T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?12211892C1508942190" alt="468 x 60 IMU Full Banner 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style="text-align: left;"><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/A-visit-to-Patagonia-is-an-adventure_travel-rite-of-passage.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">04/04 - A visit to Patagonia is an adventure-travel rite of passage</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Big-Skies-and-Silly-Birds-Abound-in-Argentina%E2%80%99s-Pen%EDnsula-Vald-e2-s.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">03/04 - Big Skies and Silly Birds Abound in Argentina’s Península Valdés</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/San-Carlos-de-Bariloche-is-a-resort-center-on-the-southern-shore-of-Lake-Nahuel-Huap%ED.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">03/04 - San Carlos de Bariloche is a resort center on the southern shore of Lake Nahuel Huapí</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Dam-The-Nihuil--k1-San-Rafael,-Mendoza-k2-.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/04 - A half hour drive from San Rafael takes the visitor to a heaven of spectacular beauty: Atuel Canyon and the Nihuil Dam</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Nahuel-Huapi-Lake--is-a-lake-of-the-lake-region-of-northern-Patagonia-between-the-provinces-of-R%EDo-Negro-and-Neuqu-e2-n.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/04 - Nahuel Huapi Lake is a lake of the lake region of northern Patagonia between the provinces of Río Negro and Neuquén</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://worldimages.nirudia.com/9349">28/03 - The Palacio de Cristal is a glass </a><a href="http://worldimages.nirudia.com/9349">pavilion inspired by The Crystal Palace in London</a></span></span></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://worldimages.nirudia.com/9348"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">28/03 - The Royal Palace of Madrid is the official residence of the King of Spain</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Iguazu-Falls,-in-Iguazu-River,-are-one-of-the-world%5C-h-s-largest-waterfalls.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/03 - Iguazu Falls, in Iguazu River, are one of the world's largest waterfalls</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Andes.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">09/03 - Images of Andes (Argentina)</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Bermuda-Islands.htm">02/03 - Images of </a><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Bermuda-Islands.htm">British Overseas Territory </a></span></span> </p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Greenland.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/02 - Images of Greenland</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Popocat-e2-petl-second-largest-volcano-in-Mexico,-5600-meters-above-sea-level.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/02 - Popocatépetl second largest volcano in Mexico, 5600 meters above sea level</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Spain.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/11 – Images of Spain</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Italy.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/11 – Images of Italy</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Chile.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Chile</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Argentina.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Argentina</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/le-strutture-interne-dellalbero.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Le strutture interne dell'albero</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/sistemazione.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 - Sistemazione</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/insetticidi-fungicidi-e-diserbanti.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Insetticidi, fungicidi e diserbanti</span></span></a></p> </li><li><p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/wabi-e-sabi.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Wabi and Sabi</span></span></a></p></li></ul></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8231380388266213306-3488534088177636134?l=lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com'/></div>Hobby Bonsaihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-43619239894214700962008-11-09T00:15:00.000-08:002009-03-10T07:59:47.139-07:00The History of Bonsai<span style="font-size:100%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRakRtKuxtI/AAAAAAAAABQ/-QgppPQ5V04/s1600-h/The_History_of_Bonsai_html_m3b581910.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 154px; height: 146px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRakRtKuxtI/AAAAAAAAABQ/-QgppPQ5V04/s200/The_History_of_Bonsai_html_m3b581910.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266577438345709266" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 128px; height: 128px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRakFEA4FzI/AAAAAAAAABI/DN3sh6OvrQU/s200/rss_green_subscribe.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266577221140092722" border="0" /></a></span><span style="font-size:100%;"><img src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Hugo/IMPOST%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-5.jpg" alt="" /></span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">Isolated monasteries on a steep mountainside often come to mind.<br /><br />While no one can say with certainty, it Gazing upon the stark beauty of a bonsai, images of is quite likely that the gentle Chinese monks first began transplanting naturally dwarfed trees into ornamental </span></span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">containers, and that it was they who first began to appreciate the windswept beauty of these trees in their homes and gardens.</span></span> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">The Japanese, however, have since been responsible for refining the art of cultivating bonsai trees to its present standards. The word bonsai simply means “a plant in a tray”. Authentic records of bonsai trees date back to the early 14th century. It is quite possible, however, that the practice of bonsai culture originated over 1,000 years ago in China on a very basic scale known as pun-sai,<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">where only a single specimen is grown in a pot. These early specimens displayed sparse foliage and rugged, gnarled trunks which often looked like animals, dragons and birds. There are a great number of myths and legends surrounding Chinese bonsai,</span></span></span></span>and the grotesque or animal-like trunks and root formations are <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">still highly-prized today.</span></span></span></span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">Chinese bonsai come from the landscape of the imagination<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style=""> </span></span></span></span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">and images of fiery dragons and coiled serpents take far greater precedence over the natural beauty of the trees, which is </span></span></span></span>preferred by Japanese bonsai artists - so the two forms of this <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">art are quite far apart. The Japanese tend to focus on using native species for their bonsai - namely pines, azaleas and </span></span></span></span>maples (regarded as the traditional bonsai plants). In other <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">countries however, people are more open to opinion, and even perennial herbs and common weeds are may be grown as</span></span></span></span> summer bonsai.</span></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: center;" lang="en-US"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?10548886C1939322412T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?10548886C1939322412" alt="www.zanox.com" width="400" align="bottom" border="0" height="265" hspace="1" /></a><br /><br /></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">It is generally accepted, however, that most bonsai are<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style=""> </span></span></span></span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">trees or shrubs. With Japan’s adoption of many cultural</span></span></span></span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="center"><span style="font-size:100%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRahWFmaFKI/AAAAAAAAAAY/M3YWJA9VbYI/s1600-h/The_History_of_Bonsai_html_m1b3acafc.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 202px; height: 318px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRahWFmaFKI/AAAAAAAAAAY/M3YWJA9VbYI/s320/The_History_of_Bonsai_html_m1b3acafc.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266574215088837794" border="0" /></a></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">trademarks of China - bonsai was also taken up, introduced to <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">Japan during the Kamakura period (1185 - 1333) by means of Zen Buddhism - which at this time was rapidly spreading around Asia. The exact time is debatable, although it is possible that it had arrived in AD 1195 as there appears to be a reference to it in a Japanese scroll attributed to that period. Once bonsai was introduced into Japan, the art was refined to an extent not yet approached in China.</span></span></span></span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">Over time, the simple trees were not just confined to the<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style=""> </span></span></span></span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">Buddhist monks and their monasteries, but also later were introduced to be representative of the aristocracy - a symbol of prestige and honor. The ideals and philosophy of bonsai were greatly changed over the years. For the Japanese, bonsai represents a fusion of strong ancient beliefs with the Eastern</span></span></span></span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">philosophies of the harmony between man, the soul and nature.</span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">In an ancient Japanese scroll written in Japan around the<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style=""> </span></span></span></span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">Kamakura period, it is translated to say : “To appreciate and find pleasure in curiously curved potted trees is to love deformity.” Whether this was intended as a positive or negative statement, it leaves us to believe that growing dwarfed and twisted trees in containers was an accepted practice among the upper</span></span></span></span>class of Japan by the <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">Kamakura period. By the fourteenth century bonsai was indeed viewed as a</span></span></span></span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">highly refined art form, <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">meaning that it must have been an established practice many years before that time.</span></span></span></span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">Bonsai were brought<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style=""> </span></span></span></span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">indoors for display at special times by the “Japanese elite” and became an important part of Japanese life by being displayed on specially designed shelves. These </span></span></span></span>complex plants were no <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">longer permanently reserved for outdoor display, although Over time, bonsai began to take on different styles, each which varied immensely from one another.</span></span></span></span></span></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: center;" lang="en-US"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style=""><a href="http://www.kqzyfj.com/click-2791513-10387621" target="_top"><img src="http://www.tqlkg.com/image-2791513-10387621" alt="uBid is the marketplace you can trust! " width="468" border="0" height="60" /></a><br /></span></span></span></span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="center"><span style="font-size:100%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRahlbMiq_I/AAAAAAAAAAg/hadJhPRkzmA/s1600-h/The_History_of_Bonsai_html_m4bdf4585.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 258px; height: 216px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRahlbMiq_I/AAAAAAAAAAg/hadJhPRkzmA/s320/The_History_of_Bonsai_html_m4bdf4585.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266574478583966706" border="0" /></a></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">the practices of training and pruning did not develop until later <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">- the small trees at this time still being taken from the wild. In the 17th and 18th century, the Japanese arts reached their </span></span></span></span>peak and were regarded very highly. Bonsai again evolved to a <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">much higher understanding and refinement of nature – although the containers used seemed to be slightly deeper than those used today.</span></span></span></span></span></span></p><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /></span><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">Bonsai also became <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">commonplace to the general Japanese public – which greatly increased demand for the small trees collected from the wild and firmly established the art-form within the culture and traditions of the country.</span></span></span></span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">Over time, bonsai began to take on different styles, each<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style=""> </span></span></span></span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">which varied immensely from one another. Bonsai artists gradually looked into introducing other culturally important elements in their bonsai plantings such as rocks, supplementary and accent plants, and even small buildings and people which itself is known as the art of bon-kei. They also looked at reproducing miniature landscapes in nature - known as sai-kei which further investigated the diverse range of artistic possibilities for bonsai.</span></span></span></span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">Finally, in the mid-19th century, after more than 230 years<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style=""> </span></span></span></span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">of global isolation, Japan opened itself up to the rest of the world. Word soon spread from travelers who visited Japan of the </span></span></span></span>miniature trees in ceramic containers which mimicked aged.</span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="center"><span style="font-size:100%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRah08ghtiI/AAAAAAAAAAo/ok5BFcPkdiI/s1600-h/The_History_of_Bonsai_html_m7f081a0.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 257px; height: 320px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRah08ghtiI/AAAAAAAAAAo/ok5BFcPkdiI/s320/The_History_of_Bonsai_html_m7f081a0.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266574745224197666" border="0" /></a></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">Bonsai is no longer reserved for the upper-class, but is a joy shared by <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">executive and factory worker alike.</span></span></span></span></span></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: center;" lang="en-US"><span style="font-size:100%;"><a href="http://www.tkqlhce.com/click-2791513-10481683" target="_top"><br /><img src="http://www.ftjcfx.com/image-2791513-10481683" alt="" width="468" border="0" height="60" /></a><br /></span> </p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="center"><span style="font-size:100%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRaiC9T9m1I/AAAAAAAAAAw/JpRHu78N5SI/s1600-h/The_History_of_Bonsai_html_677ffb7e.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 233px; height: 320px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRaiC9T9m1I/AAAAAAAAAAw/JpRHu78N5SI/s320/The_History_of_Bonsai_html_677ffb7e.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266574985958103890" border="0" /></a></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">mature, tall trees in <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">nature. Further exhibitions in London, Vienna and Paris in the latter part of the century – especially the Paris World Exhibition in 1900 opened the world’s eyes up to bonsai.</span></span></span></span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">Due to this<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style=""> </span></span></span></span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">phenomenal upsurge in the demand for bonsai, the now widely expanding industry and lack of naturally-forming, stunted plants led to the commercial production of bonsai by artists through training young plants to grow to look like bonsai.</span></span></span></span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">Several basic styles <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">were adopted, and artists made use of wire, bamboo skewers and growing techniques to do this – allowing the art to evolve even further.</span></span></span></span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">The Japanese learned to capitalize on the interest in this art<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style=""> </span></span></span></span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">form very quickly - opening up nurseries dedicated solely to grow, train and then export bonsai trees. Different plants were </span></span></span></span>styling and grafting of unusual, different or tender material onto <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">hardy root stock were further developed.</span></span></span></span></span></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="justify" lang="en-US"> <span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;">Bonsai has now evolved to reflect changing tastes and<span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style=""> </span></span></span></span><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">times - with a great variety of countries, cultures and conditions in which it is now practiced. In Japan today, bonsai are highly regarded as a symbol of their culture and ideals. The New Year is not complete unless the tokonoma - the special niche in every Japanese home used for the display of ornaments </span></span></span></span>and prized possessions - is filled with a blossoming apricot or <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style="">plum tree. Bonsai is no longer reserved for the upper-class, but is a joy shared by executive and factory worker alike.</span></span></span></span></span><br /></span> </p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;" align="center"><span style="font-size:100%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRaiQBZjB1I/AAAAAAAAAA4/8mkE7kdr_mE/s1600-h/The_History_of_Bonsai_html_m3b581910.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 248px; height: 236px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRaiQBZjB1I/AAAAAAAAAA4/8mkE7kdr_mE/s320/The_History_of_Bonsai_html_m3b581910.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266575210393569106" border="0" /></a></span></p><br /><br /><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --> </style> <table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <col width="128"> <col width="128"> <tbody><tr valign="top"> <td width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Related Post</b></span></span></p> </td> <td rowspan="2" width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --></span></span></p> <p align="center"> <span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?10548774C11139071T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?10548774C11139071" alt="An Empress and the Warriors DVD" align="bottom" border="0" hspace="1" /></a></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="50%"> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/11/bonsai-essentials-fertilizer.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Essentilas: Fertilizer, Nutrient Selection and Major Selection, Organic vs Inorganic</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Teacher</span></span><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">: </span></span></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">After 23 years of bonsai it was great to see a book that was teaching me new things page after page. 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These beautiful bonsai trees may be any kind of tree that you may admire. Some bonsai trees are available at good plant stores and nurseries. Beginner bonsai trees will have been processed so they are ready to plant in your chosen place. Before you begin to train your bonsai, you must first get to know how you should look after it.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Tips On Beginner Bonsai Trees<br /></span><div style="text-align: center;"><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: center;" lang="en-US"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?10548886C1939322412T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?10548886C1939322412" alt="www.zanox.com" width="400" align="bottom" border="0" height="265" hspace="1" /></a></span></span></p><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span></div><br />When you start growing beginner bonsai trees, you will unfortunately have to sacrifice some of the parts of the plant to enable you to make a beautiful design. Beginner bonsai trees come to you with no design at all. They have just been processed to become bonsais; now it's up to you, and how you want your trees to look in the future.<br /><br />There are many different bonsai styles to choose from. The easiest and most common are the cascade, windswept, slanting, informal upright, formal upright and bunjin. The beginner bonsai trees enthusiast can choose the type of style which they have decided on to make their trees into.<br /><br />Some bonsai trees may have a certain amount of design inclination already as you buy them. You may be lucky and find one which already has a straight trunk or may have beautiful branches to suit the cascade style. Studying your purchase may help you obtain inspiration from their form.<br /><br />Another essential is to learn how to prune both the roots and the crown of your beginner bonsai trees. The actual pruning means when you cut off some portions to make the bonsai tree more robust or to promote more growth. It will also be necessary to repot your bonsai frequently, maybe every one or two years to promote better health and to prune the roots. Repotting and pruning of beginner bonsai trees also encourages them to grow faster.<br /><br />It's a good idea to place your beginner bonsai trees inside the house during the winter season, especially if they are tropical or subtropical varieties. Tropical bonsai trees cannot stand the cold and bonsai pots that are shallow tend to freeze over if left out in the cold and snow.<br /><br />You should however keep your beginner bonsai trees away from direct radiator heat since it can dry out the soil very quickly. Remember not to put the bonsai plants near the window during snowy months because the cold can still seep in during the night and that can possibly stress or kill the tree. It is better to research what kind of tree you have to be able to cater properly to its health.<br /><br /><br /><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --> </style> <table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <col width="128"> <col width="128"> <tbody><tr valign="top"> <td width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Related Post</b></span></span></p> </td> <td rowspan="2" width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --></span></span></p> <p align="center"> <span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?10548774C11139071T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?10548774C11139071" alt="An Empress and the Warriors DVD" align="bottom" border="0" hspace="1" /></a></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="50%"> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/11/bonsai-essentials-fertilizer.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Essentilas: Fertilizer, Nutrient Selection and Major Selection, Organic vs Inorganic</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Teacher</span></span><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">: </span></span></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">After 23 years of bonsai it was great to see a book that was teaching me new things page after page. 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They are also known as shohin-bonsai or mame-bonsai. The largest is about the size of and adults hand in diameter and the smallest that of a childs hand in diameter. Despite being so small in width and height, they still flower fruit in season and age like ordinary bonsai do.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">The Life Of Miniaturized Trees</span><br /><br />Mini bonsai bring enjoyment to many people because of their appearance as miniature trees, they are not well known, and they often appear to be difficult to keep in small pots. However the pots limit the growth of the trees because the roots cannot grow freely in a confined space. Therefore without needing complicated care of any kind the trees exhibit their natural shape on a small scale within the small pot. The tree in its miniaturized form grows the texture of the bark, tiny flowers and fruit in the same way a normal sized tree does.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: center;" lang="en-US"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?10548886C1939322412T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?10548886C1939322412" alt="www.zanox.com" width="400" align="bottom" border="0" height="265" hspace="1" /></a></span></span></p></div><br />The materials for growing mini bonsai are cheap, and they can be cared for anywhere. They can be enjoyed and used to decorate any area as they don�t require a large space in which to grow. Results can be quite fast from being planted as seeds.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Where Mini Bonsai Should Be Grown</span><br /><br />Although mini bonsai can be treated as a house plant, they do need sunshine for between 3-6 hours a day. Six hours is better as this helps create better conditions for the mini bonsai to develop, grown and for bearing fruit or flowers. They can be kept in a conservatory, however great care must be taken to ensure that they do not dry out. Good air circulation is needed for preventing disease and pests. Daily watering is required, and they should be fed once every 2 weeks.<br /><br />Positioning Of Mini Bonsai Trees<br /><br />The ideal position for a Mini bonsai is a well ventilated place that faces southeast (in the northern hemisphere) and northwest (in the southern hemisphere) but it has to be shaded from the sun if it is in an area that gets more than six hours per day. 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Sistemazione</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/insetticidi-fungicidi-e-diserbanti.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Insetticidi, fungicidi e diserbanti</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/wabi-e-sabi.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Wabi e Sabi</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/criteri-di-coltivazione.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Criteri di coltivazione</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/studiare-i-bonsai-milano.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Studiare i Bonsai a Milano</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/08/in-giappone-il-prunus-mume-da-sempre.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">09/08 – Azalea, bonsai del portamento elegante e dalla fioritura spettacolare</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/08/in-giappone-il-prunus-mume-da-sempre.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">09/08 – In Giappone il “prunus mume” è considerato un grande portafortuna</span></span></a></p></td></tr></tbody></table></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8231380388266213306-5088447019857004648?l=lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com'/></div>Hobby Bonsaihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-4212204162643956532008-10-30T09:47:00.001-07:002009-03-10T08:01:37.960-07:00Bonsai Trees Can be Revived If You Have Patience<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRakRtKuxtI/AAAAAAAAABQ/-QgppPQ5V04/s1600-h/The_History_of_Bonsai_html_m3b581910.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 154px; height: 146px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRakRtKuxtI/AAAAAAAAABQ/-QgppPQ5V04/s200/The_History_of_Bonsai_html_m3b581910.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266577438345709266" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 128px; height: 128px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRakFEA4FzI/AAAAAAAAABI/DN3sh6OvrQU/s200/rss_green_subscribe.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266577221140092722" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:100%;"><img src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Hugo/IMPOST%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-5.jpg" alt="" /></span>Bonsai trees are a beautiful tree and an addition to any garden, patio or home. They are very attractive, bit often there are times when they are just forgotten about. It may be because someone has gone on holiday, or maybe they just become less healthy. There are many ways to revive bonsai trees, and here are just a few.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Add Life to Trees by Repotting<br /></span><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: center;" lang="en-US"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?10548886C1939322412T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?10548886C1939322412" alt="www.zanox.com" width="400" align="bottom" border="0" height="265" hspace="1" /></a></span></span></p><br /><br />First, it's a good idea to think about re-potting a bonsai tree every couple of years. Early spring is a great time to do this and the gardener will need some good quality potting compost with a mix of sand or grit that will help the drainage.<br /><br />Repotting a bonsai tree will hopefully put a new lease of life into it with new soil and drainage and help on the way to reviving bonsai trees.<br />Another good way for reviving bonsai trees is to trim the roots of the tree, often the roots become very compacted and confined and give it a dying appearance. Roots may also become too big for the pot that the bonsai is growing in, so cutting the roots can be a good move. Old soil will need to be removed first to expose the roots.<br /><br />It has always been recommended that bonsai trees be situated outdoors because of the temperature and the fact that they need to be exposed to at least 3 hours of sunlight each day. However, a lot of people still keep them indoors, and do find that their bonsai tree begins to wilt and needs revival. If this is the case the best move is to place it outside, and it hopefully will help in reviving bonsai trees.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Watering And Pruning Can Help Tree Growth</span><br /><br />Water is also an issue when it comes to reviving bonsai trees. The soil needs to be kept moist all of the time, yet some people allow the bonsai to become waterlogged, and this trapped water will rot the root system and kill the bonsai tree quite fast. The bonsai pot therefore has to have enough holes to allow drainage of the water. Letting the tree dry out from lack of water is also an issue.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: center;" lang="en-US"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style=""><a href="http://www.kqzyfj.com/click-2791513-10387621" target="_top"><img src="http://www.tqlkg.com/image-2791513-10387621" alt="uBid is the marketplace you can trust! " width="468" border="0" height="60" /></a></span></span></span></span></span></span></p></div>Bonsai trees are always in need of pruning. If a bonsai tree gets to big, cutting off the top will stop it growing even taller, and should be done using a sharp pair of scissors or secateurs to prevent infection. This will allow the bonsai tree to grow new branches and spur a new lease if life into the plant, allowing it to appear wider and fuller.<br /><br /><br /><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --> </style> <table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <col width="128"> <col width="128"> <tbody><tr valign="top"> <td width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Related Post</b></span></span></p> </td> <td rowspan="2" width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --></span></span></p> <p align="center"> <span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?10548774C11139071T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?10548774C11139071" alt="An Empress and the Warriors DVD" align="bottom" border="0" hspace="1" /></a></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="50%"> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/11/bonsai-essentials-fertilizer.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Essentilas: Fertilizer, Nutrient Selection and Major Selection, Organic vs Inorganic</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Teacher</span></span><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">: </span></span></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">After 23 years of bonsai it was great to see a book that was teaching me new things page after page. 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Sistemazione</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/insetticidi-fungicidi-e-diserbanti.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Insetticidi, fungicidi e diserbanti</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/wabi-e-sabi.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Wabi e Sabi</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/criteri-di-coltivazione.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Criteri di coltivazione</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/studiare-i-bonsai-milano.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Studiare i Bonsai a Milano</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/08/in-giappone-il-prunus-mume-da-sempre.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">09/08 – Azalea, bonsai del portamento elegante e dalla fioritura spettacolare</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/08/in-giappone-il-prunus-mume-da-sempre.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">09/08 – In Giappone il “prunus mume” è considerato un grande portafortuna</span></span></a></p></td></tr></tbody></table></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8231380388266213306-421220416264395653?l=lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com'/></div>Hobby Bonsaihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-7622974020709521262008-10-30T09:46:00.000-07:002009-03-10T08:01:57.285-07:00Using Artificial Bonsai to Decorate Your Home<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRakRtKuxtI/AAAAAAAAABQ/-QgppPQ5V04/s1600-h/The_History_of_Bonsai_html_m3b581910.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 154px; height: 146px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRakRtKuxtI/AAAAAAAAABQ/-QgppPQ5V04/s200/The_History_of_Bonsai_html_m3b581910.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266577438345709266" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 128px; height: 128px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRakFEA4FzI/AAAAAAAAABI/DN3sh6OvrQU/s200/rss_green_subscribe.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266577221140092722" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:100%;"><img src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Hugo/IMPOST%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-5.jpg" alt="" /></span>If you love bonsai plants, but are one of those people who do not have the and much time or the energy to take care of a real bonsai tree, help is at hand. Today there are plenty of artificial bonsai plants available for reasonable amounts of money . Most of these artificial bonsai plants a good copies and look exactly like the real thing and unless you take a really close look at the plant, you will not really know if it is real or artificial.<br /><br />Although, an artificial bonsai plant isn't as good as the real thing, artificial plants don't need the constant care and attention in the same way as real bonsai trees, and so you can just leave it inside your home and never worry about too much water or light. Besides, what good will real bonsai plants do to your home if you cannot keep it alive and looking well? Dead and limp plants are not a good feature of your living room.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: center;" lang="en-US"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?10548886C1939322412T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?10548886C1939322412" alt="www.zanox.com" width="400" align="bottom" border="0" height="265" hspace="1" /></a></span></span></p></div><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Making The Right Choice of Artificial Bonsai Plants For Your Home</span><br />When you go to buy an artificial bonsai plant , you need to take a careful note of the present decorations that exist in your home. It's important that the artificial bonsai you choose will compliment your current home decor, and should match or contrast in some way to add to the atmosphere of your room. Do not just be content to buy any kind of artificial bonsai plants that are on sale if you do not want to end up with mismatched decorations.<br /><br />Obviously if you are limited for space in your home, don't buy those large artificial bonsai plants. A dainty artificial bonsai plant that you can put on top of the table to make a focal point will add to the ambiance of your room.<br /><br />If you can when it comes to the materials your artificial bonsai plant is made from, it would be best to buy those that are made up of biodegradable products if possible. Forget about those plastic things as they look artificial. At some time in the future when you want to dispose of your artificial bonsai plants you will not be contributing to landfill sites, so choose biodegradable products.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Where To Buy Artificial Bonsai Plants</span><br /><br />Lots of shops, department stores and garden centers sell good quality artificial bonsai plants. Check out some of the stores and shops in your locality to find something that will suit your needs. You can save yourself time by shopping in online stores which also sell artificial bonsai plants. Ring around and find the best option for you, get an idea of prices and make your choice.<br /><br /><br /><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --> </style> <table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <col width="128"> <col width="128"> <tbody><tr valign="top"> <td width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Related Post</b></span></span></p> </td> <td rowspan="2" width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --></span></span></p> <p align="center"> <span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?10548774C11139071T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?10548774C11139071" alt="An Empress and the Warriors DVD" align="bottom" border="0" hspace="1" /></a></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="50%"> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/11/bonsai-essentials-fertilizer.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Essentilas: Fertilizer, Nutrient Selection and Major Selection, Organic vs Inorganic</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Teacher</span></span><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">: </span></span></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">After 23 years of bonsai it was great to see a book that was teaching me new things page after page. 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Like all plants, flowering bonsai plants need careful feeding, watering pruning and training at regular intervals so that they can grow healthy. They usually are grown in small containers which helps to get a desired shape by the application of wire coils.<br /><br />When you are going to buy a flowering bonsai there are three main aspects to consider;<br /><br />The type of container<br />The position that the plant will occupy in the container<br />The choice of the plant type variety.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center; font-weight: bold;"><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: center;" lang="en-US"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?10548886C1939322412T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?10548886C1939322412" alt="www.zanox.com" width="400" align="bottom" border="0" height="265" hspace="1" /></a></span></span></p></div><span style="font-weight: bold;">Four Sizes Of Flowering Bonsai</span><br /><br />Flowering bonsai come in four main sizes, miniature, samll, medium and average size.There are four main sizes of flowering bonsai. Miniature bonsai grow to around two inches in height and will usually achieve this within two years. Small bonsai grow to two to six inches in height will take from five to ten years to mature, whereas medium bonsai grow to six to twelve inches in height and will reach their full potential more quickly in around three years. Average sized flowering bonsai grow to approximately two feet, and are also reach full potential within three years.<br /><br />The Two Basic Styles Of Growing Flowering Bonsai Plants<br /><br />The informal style, which is sometimes also known as comic and bunkin is the opposite of the classic style and has the top end wider than the bottom. The classic style, which sometimes is known as koten has a wider trunk at the base and as it gets towards the top becomes thinner.<br /><br />Some Popular Flowering Bonsai Trees<br /><br />Mt. Fuji Serissa - is known for its white colorings on the outer edges of the leaves. In the summer it blooms a single white flower and likes lots of warmth and sun so should be put in a correct spot in a garden. In case of watering make sure that the soil is dry before watering is commenced.<br /><br />Flowering Quince - This comes from Asian countries and has a display of white and red flowers on bare branches. It is a world favourite and the leaves have tiny teeth and flowers grow in tight clusters. It produces green and yellow fruits and may be tough, but needs a lot of sunlight and soil that is well-drained between watering. Be careful not to over water.<br /><br />Okinawa Holly - This has small pink flowers that bloom during spring and summer. It is tough, but grows best in temperatures between 60 and 85 degrees. For maintenance, it is best to be spray misted everyday from spring to fall and at least twice a day in winter.<br /><br /><br /><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --> </style> <table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <col width="128"> <col width="128"> <tbody><tr valign="top"> <td width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Related Post</b></span></span></p> </td> <td rowspan="2" width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --></span></span></p> <p align="center"> <span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?10548774C11139071T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?10548774C11139071" alt="An Empress and the Warriors DVD" align="bottom" border="0" hspace="1" /></a></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="50%"> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/11/bonsai-essentials-fertilizer.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Essentilas: Fertilizer, Nutrient Selection and Major Selection, Organic vs Inorganic</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Teacher</span></span><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">: </span></span></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">After 23 years of bonsai it was great to see a book that was teaching me new things page after page. 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Sistemazione</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/insetticidi-fungicidi-e-diserbanti.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Insetticidi, fungicidi e diserbanti</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/wabi-e-sabi.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Wabi e Sabi</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/criteri-di-coltivazione.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Criteri di coltivazione</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/studiare-i-bonsai-milano.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Studiare i Bonsai a Milano</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/08/in-giappone-il-prunus-mume-da-sempre.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">09/08 – Azalea, bonsai del portamento elegante e dalla fioritura spettacolare</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/08/in-giappone-il-prunus-mume-da-sempre.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">09/08 – In Giappone il “prunus mume” è considerato un grande portafortuna</span></span></a></p></td></tr></tbody></table></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8231380388266213306-4777413756206612581?l=lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com'/></div>Hobby Bonsaihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-13341187957493680042008-10-30T09:43:00.000-07:002009-03-10T08:02:53.582-07:00Bonsai Care: What to consider when looking after your plants<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRakRtKuxtI/AAAAAAAAABQ/-QgppPQ5V04/s1600-h/The_History_of_Bonsai_html_m3b581910.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 154px; height: 146px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRakRtKuxtI/AAAAAAAAABQ/-QgppPQ5V04/s200/The_History_of_Bonsai_html_m3b581910.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266577438345709266" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 128px; height: 128px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_j1kJIsfNkNI/SRakFEA4FzI/AAAAAAAAABI/DN3sh6OvrQU/s200/rss_green_subscribe.png" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266577221140092722" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:100%;"><img src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Hugo/IMPOST%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-5.jpg" alt="" /></span>Bonsai plants care is a job which needs to be done on a regular basis, and cannot be taken for granted. Bonsai trees are generally very delicate. They need a lot of care and attention. Here are some tips for you, If you are interested in having bonsai plants in your home.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Air and Light</span><br /><br />Make sure your plants have plenty of light and air, these are two of the most important things that you need to remember for bonsai care. Like almost all other types of plants, bonsai plants need light to survive.<br /><div style="text-align: center;"><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: center;" lang="en-US"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?10548886C1939322412T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?10548886C1939322412" alt="www.zanox.com" width="400" align="bottom" border="0" height="265" hspace="1" /></a></span></span></p></div>Yes, most bonsai plants can survive indoors but you will need to give it enough light to thrive. Bonsai Plant care is no different from any other plant care, and you will need to study the different requirements they will require when it comes to light and ventilation.<br />Try to save on energy, and use natural light and fresh air for your bonsai plants. If you place your bonsai plant near a window it should be able to get enough sunlight and fresh air. Take care not to expose your plants to excessive wind and head, because bonsai plants are sensitive to heat and the wind.<br />In order to make sure that your plant is not exposed to too much sun and wind, expose your plant to directly sunlight for just a few minutes everyday and then put it in a shady place where it can rest. If you are are out of the house for long periods of time, be careful not to leave your plant near a window that will be directly exposed to sunlight for a long time during the day.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Giving Your Plant Water</span><br /><br />When it comes to bonsai care, water is very important. The bonsai root system is very shallow, and only small amounts of water can be held in the roots. As you will be aware your plant has a limited amount soil to help it retain moisture, and therefore it will need to be watered regularly, and sprinkling twice a day should be what you aim for. Once the roots of your plant have lost their moisture, your plant will start to go dry. To keep your plant healthy, sprinkle water on your plant in the morning and in the afternoon. During a hot day, it would be best to sprinkle some water on your plant two to three times a day. Do not over water. Watering should be small amounts at regular intervals.<br /><br />Pruning Your Bonsai Plant<br /><br />Your bonsai care routine will not be complete if you do not know when and how to prune your plant. Although different plants will have different pruning requirements, you will have to determine on your own when the right time to prune your plants is. There are no real rules when to prune your bonsai plant. However you should take great care that you do not cut away too much too much of the branches and end up killing your plant. Small amounts of regular pruning is the way to proceed.<br /><br /><br /><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --> </style> <table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <col width="128"> <col width="128"> <tbody><tr valign="top"> <td width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Related Post</b></span></span></p> </td> <td rowspan="2" width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --></span></span></p> <p align="center"> <span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?10548774C11139071T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?10548774C11139071" alt="An Empress and the Warriors DVD" align="bottom" border="0" hspace="1" /></a></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="50%"> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/11/bonsai-essentials-fertilizer.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Essentilas: Fertilizer, Nutrient Selection and Major Selection, Organic vs Inorganic</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Teacher</span></span><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">: </span></span></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">After 23 years of bonsai it was great to see a book that was teaching me new things page after page. 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Each one takes the stage when it is most beautiful.<br /><br />To see photographs of bonsai from the collection, visit www.chicagobotanic.org/bonsai.<br /></span><div style="text-align: center;"><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: center;" lang="en-US"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?10548886C1939322412T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?10548886C1939322412" alt="www.zanox.com" width="400" align="bottom" border="0" height="265" hspace="1" /></a></span></span></p></div><span style="font-size:100%;">BONSAI<br />Assembling the Collection<br />Predominantly composed of donated specimens, the collection includes gifts from local enthusiasts and Midwest Bonsai Society members. In 2000, Susumu Nakamura, a Japanese bonsai master and longstanding friend of the Chicago Botanic Garden, donated 19 of his finest bonsai to the collection. This gift enabled the collection to advance to world-class status.<br /><br />COLLECTION<br />A remarkable collection of majestic trees in miniature Caring for the Collection<br />When not on display, the bonsai in the Chicago Botanic Garden’s collection are housed in a secured greenhouse that has both outdoor and indoor facilities. There the bonsai are watered, fertilized, wired, trimmed and repotted by staff and volunteers. Several times a year, bonsai master Susumu Nakamura travels from his home in Japan to provide guidance for the care and training of this important collection.<br /><br />What Is a Bonsai?<br />Japanese and Chinese languages use the same characters to represent bonsai (pronounced “bone-sigh”). One character means “pot” or “tray,” and the other means “to plant.” Bonsai are ordinary trees and shrubs that have been trained in pots to grow into naturally beautiful shapes.<br /><br />BONSAI STYLES<br />Most bonsai are small enough to sit on a table, and yet they are designed to look like full-sized trees, or groups of trees. To achieve this illusion, a bonsai artist must understand how a tree grows in nature and then use his or her skills to encourage the tree to develop the characteristics of old age even though the tree isn’t necessarily old.<br />Bonsai artists train and dwarf trees through pruning, trimming and wiring plants with a clear sense of the final design of the tree.<br />Each tree is designed to have a front (intended for viewing) and a back.<br />In the Japanese bonsai tradition, each bonsai must conform to a clearly defined style. There are more than 100 recognized styles in bonsai, but most experts consider five basic styles to be essential—formal upright, informal upright, slanting, cascade and semi-cascade. The Chicago Botanic Garden’s bonsai collection includes specimens in a range of 20 different styles.<br />This guide will help you become familiar with the essential bonsai styles and their Japanese<br />names.<br /></span><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:100%;"></span><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: center;" lang="en-US"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span lang="en-US"><span style=""><a href="http://www.kqzyfj.com/click-2791513-10387621" target="_top"><img src="http://www.tqlkg.com/image-2791513-10387621" alt="uBid is the marketplace you can trust! " width="468" border="0" height="60" /></a></span></span></span></span></span></span></p></div><span style="font-size:100%;">A Brief History of Bonsai<br />Formal Upright<br />The first form of bonsai appeared in China over a thousand years ago, where it began as the practice of growing single specimen trees in pots. These earliest bonsai were naturally<br />dwarfed trees that were collected from nature, potted and trained as bonsai.<br />The Japanese began practicing bonsai sometime during the historical Heian period (794-1185), adopting the art from Chinese culture and refining it to a level of sophistication that had not yet been seen. For the Japanese, bonsai came to represent a philosophy of harmony between humans, the soul and nature.<br />By the late 1800s, Japan had opened its boundaries to the rest of the world, and the miniature trees in containers were highly sought after by enthusiastic collectors outsideof Japan. Bonsai exhibits at late 19th- and early 20th-century world’s fairs in Europe and the United States also contributed to creating interest in the West.<br />Today the art of bonsai is a well-known and respected horticultural art form that is practiced worldwide.<br />(Chokkan)<br />A bonsai tree trained in the formal upright style mimics the growth of a tree under perfect natural conditions. The mostimportant requirement for this style is that the trunk must be<br />perfectly straight, tapering naturally and evenly from bottom to top.<br />The best species for training in the formal upright style are larches, junipers, pines and spruces because of their naturally tapered shape.<br />Informal Upright<br />(Moyogi)<br />In nature, trees bend or change their growth direction in response to their environment. They might grow away from the wind or other trees, or grow toward sunlight. The informal upright bonsai style represents this natural curve of a tree trunk in an imperfect environment.<br />In the informal upright style, the top of the tree, its apex, is usually positioned directly over its base, so the overall effect is that of an upright tree. Most species of sturdy plants are suitable for training in this style, but the most popular are maples Slanting<br />Because the broom shape is so common in nature, broom-style bonsai trees are often considered to be the most realistic-looking. The broom style, though, is considered an advanced technique and is difficult to achieve.<br />Deciduous trees are the best candidates for training in this style, especially those with fine branches and leaves. The elm is the most popular species of tree used for growing and training<br />in the broom style.<br />(Shakkan)<br />Trees slant naturally as a result of exposure to buffeting winds or deep shade when they are<br />young. A bonsai tree trained in this style displays a trunk that leans to the left or right to imply<br />a difficult childhood.<br /><br />Some bonsai trees that have been trained to slant look as if they will fall over because of the<br />angle at which they lean. No need to worry, though – these trees have strong roots growing<br />under the soil that support the tree’s weight.<br /><br />The slanting bonsai style is similar to the informal upright, but in this style the tree’s apex is<br />not directly over its base.<br />Windswept<br />(Fukinagashi)<br />The windswept bonsai has all of its living branches facing the same direction, a training method creating the illusion of a tree that grew up in a very windy place.<br />Cascade<br />When done well, windswept bon(Kengai) sai trees can look as if they are still being lashed by the wind.<br />The cascade style of bonsai calls to mind a weather-beaten old The windswept effect can be applied to basic bonsai styles of trees, including formal or informal upright, slanting or semi-cascade trees. You may see a bonsai that fits into more than one styling category because of a combination of techniques.<br />The windswept style is most effectively applied to conifer species of trees. The effect is more<br />difficult to achieve convincingly with deciduous<br />trees because their leaves face in all directions.<br />tree clinging to a cliff face. In this style, the tree’s growing tip extends below the base of its container. A cascade bonsai appears to be struggling against gravity or seeking out scant sunlight.<br /><br />The semi-cascade (han-kengai) bonsai style is similar to the cascade style. In this form, the tree grows over the rim of the container but does not drop below the container’s base.<br />Many species of plants will adapt to cascade training, as long as they are not strongly upright naturally. Juniper is a favorite for training in the cascade and semi-cascade styles.<br /><br />Forest<br />(Yose-ue)<br />Forest-style bonsai plantings consist of several trees of the same species growing in a single pot.<br />In the Japanese tradition, trees Broom (Hokidachi) are always planted in odd-numbered groups that are said to echo A broom-style bonsai looks like a the randomness of nature conventional handmade broom, turned upside down.<br /><br />Branches fan out from the top of a single Although a bonsai forest is viewed from outside, the style is meant to give the viewer the sensation of actually being within a forest straight trunk. This style imitates one of the common natural shapes of trees.<br /><br />PLANTS FOR BONSAI TO LEARN MORE<br />Any substantial plant can be trained into a bonsai if it can adapt to the shallow pots and restricted growth that bonsai require. Most bonsai are hardy outdoor plants that need a period of cold dormancy in the winter to thrive, but they should be protected from the harshest winter conditions.<br /><br />Some of the most popular species have remained so for centuries among bonsai enthusiasts. They offer special features such as flowers, attractive bark, small foliage or seasonal fruits and cones. They include the following plants:<br />Lewis, Colin. Bonsai Survival Manual.<br />Pownal, Vt.: Storey Communications, Inc., 1996.<br />-<br />Naka, John Yoshio. Bonsai Techniques, Vols. I and II.<br />Whittier, Calif.: Bonsai Institute of California, 1973 &amp; 1982.<br />Yoshimura, Yuji and Giovanna M. Halford.<br />The Japanese Art of Miniature Trees and Landscapes;<br />Their Creation, Care and Enjoyment. Rutland, Vt.:<br />Charles E. Tuttle Co., Inc., 1971.<br /><br />Azalea (Rhododendron) - These are easily trained into tree form and can be used for most styles. In late spring, they produce spectacular flowers. Several flower colors are available.<br />Beech (Fagus) - Deciduous beeches tend to be grown in informal bonsai styles. They require<br />very special and delicate technique in styling.<br /><br />Fig (Ficus) - This tropical family includes some species that have been trained to grow as indoor bonsai. Still, these plants should be placed outside when the weather allows. Juniper (Juniperus) - Probably the easiest genus for a beginner, evergreen juniper is readily available and can be trained in most styles.<br /><br />Maple (Acer) - Two main species of maple are used in bonsai: Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) and trident maple (Acer buergerianum). These deciduous plants are easy to care for, and many display stunning fall colors.<br /><br />Pine (Pinus) - Pines make beautiful bonsai, but are not ideal for a first tree because they are difficult to train. The best pines are varieties with short needles because they support the illusion of a full-sized tree.<br /><br />The Chicago Botanic Garden is owned by the Forest Preserve District of Cook County.</span><br /><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --> </style> <table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <col width="128"> <col width="128"> <tbody><tr valign="top"> <td width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Related Post</b></span></span></p> </td> <td rowspan="2" width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --></span></span></p> <p align="center"> <span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?10548774C11139071T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?10548774C11139071" alt="An Empress and the Warriors DVD" align="bottom" border="0" hspace="1" /></a></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="50%"> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/11/bonsai-essentials-fertilizer.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Essentilas: Fertilizer, Nutrient Selection and Major Selection, Organic vs Inorganic</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Teacher</span></span><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">: </span></span></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">After 23 years of bonsai it was great to see a book that was teaching me new things page after page. 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Images of Andes (Argentina)</span></span></a></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Bermuda-Islands.htm">02/03 - Images of </a><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Bermuda-Islands.htm">British Overseas Territory </a></span></span> </p> <p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Greenland.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/02 - Images of Greenland</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Popocat-e2-petl-second-largest-volcano-in-Mexico,-5600-meters-above-sea-level.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">27/02 - Popocatépetl second largest volcano in Mexico, 5600 meters above sea level</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Spain.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/11 – Images of Spain</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Italy.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">02/11 – Images of Italy</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Chile.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Chile</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Argentina.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">01/11 – Images of Argentina</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/le-strutture-interne-dellalbero.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Le strutture interne dell'albero</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/sistemazione.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 - Sistemazione</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/insetticidi-fungicidi-e-diserbanti.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Insetticidi, fungicidi e diserbanti</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/wabi-e-sabi.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Wabi e Sabi</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/criteri-di-coltivazione.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Criteri di coltivazione</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/studiare-i-bonsai-milano.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Studiare i Bonsai a Milano</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/08/in-giappone-il-prunus-mume-da-sempre.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">09/08 – Azalea, bonsai del portamento elegante e dalla fioritura spettacolare</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/08/in-giappone-il-prunus-mume-da-sempre.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">09/08 – In Giappone il “prunus mume” è considerato un grande portafortuna</span></span></a></p></td></tr></tbody></table></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8231380388266213306-9164440482269095354?l=lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com'/></div>Hobby Bonsaihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-63334265106564290802007-11-30T07:15:00.000-08:002009-03-10T08:09:19.056-07:00Attracting birds to the garden<div style="text-align: center;"><span class="initial"></span><br /><p align="center"><img src="http://www.thebonsaigarden.com/images/mytrees/elm2.jpg" /></p><span class="initial"></span></div><span class="initial">A</span> gardener's relationship with birds is one of mutual benefit. The gardener provides for a few of the birds basic needs, and the birds help to keep down the insect population while treating us to an unending source of entertainment. Birds take their role as insect predator seriously. A single bird will gulp down 500 to 1,000 insects in an afternoon. Birds have four primary needs: food, water, shelter, and a place to raise a family. As you'll see, these needs are easily met.<br /><br /><b>Food</b><br /><br />Two types of seeds, white proso millet and black oil sunflower seeds, will attract most common seed-eating birds. These two seeds should be the mainstay in your feeders. To broaden the diversity of birds visiting your feeders, add species-specific seeds such as red proso millet, black- and gray-striped sunflower seeds, Niger thistle (for goldfinches, pine siskins and purple finches), milo and peanut kernels (for chickadees and white tufted titmice). Beef suet helps birds maintain their body heat in cold weather. Hang plastic mesh bags of suet or pinecones dipped in melted suet from tree limbs. Woodpeckers are particularly appreciative of this treat.<br /><br />For more suggestions on feeding birds, see Leigh Abernathy's article <a href="http://www.gardenguides.com/articles/birdfood.htm" target="_blank">It's For The Birds</a>. If you're interested in attracting hummingbirds to your garden, see Naomi Mathew's article <a href="http://www.gardenguides.com/articles/hummingbird.htm" target="_blank">Creating a Hummingbird Haven</a>.<br /><br /><b>Water</b><br /><br />An ideal water source for birds should be about three inches deep and three feet off the ground. Motion and sound will grab a bird's attention. You can create moving water by suspending a leaky container from a branch over a birdbath. Fountains and waterfalls are favorite hangouts for songbirds, and misters place in the plants near your birdbath will attract a variety of feathered visitors.<br /><br /><b>Shelter</b><br /><br />Birds need shelter to protect them from the elements and allow them to hide from predators. Dense, twiggy shrubs and evergreens are the shelter of choice for most birds.<br /><br /><b>Nesting Sites</b><br /><br />Different species of birds have different nesting requirements, and you can find ready-made bird houses or build-it-yourself plans for almost every species of bird. Choose birdhouses that are weather resistant and have a pitched roof to shed rain. There should be holes in the sides and bottom for ventilation and drainage. A hinged or removable roof is a bonus for you because it makes cleaning much easier. The birdhouse should be cleaned after each nesting season. When hanging your birdhouse, position the entrance hole away from prevailing winds.<br /><br /><b>About the Author:</b> Jackie Carroll is the editor of GardenGuides.com, a leading internet destination for gardening information and ideas. <a href="http://www.guardenguides.com/" target="_blank">Visit GardenGuides.com</a><br /><br /><br /><p style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><style type="text/css"> <!-- @page { margin: 2cm } TD P { margin-bottom: 0cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } A:link { so-language: zxx } --> </style> <table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <col width="128"> <col width="128"> <tbody><tr valign="top"> <td width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>Related Post</b></span></span></p> </td> <td rowspan="2" width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --></span></span></p> <p align="center"> <span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?10548774C11139071T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?10548774C11139071" alt="An Empress and the Warriors DVD" align="bottom" border="0" hspace="1" /></a></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="50%"> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/11/bonsai-essentials-fertilizer.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Essentilas: Fertilizer, Nutrient Selection and Major Selection, Organic vs Inorganic</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Bonsai Teacher</span></span><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">: </span></span></a><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2007/10/bonsai-teacher.html">After 23 years of bonsai it was great to see a book that was teaching me new things page after page. The book is a beautiful book</a></span></span></p> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/03/classic-bonsai-styles-chatper-2.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">10/03 - Classic Bonsai Styles, Chapter 2</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/03/classic-bonsai-styles-chapter-1.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">09/03 - Classic Bonsai Styles, Chapter 1</span></span></a></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2009/03/displaying-your-bonsai-outdoors.html">09/03 - Displaying Your Bonsai Outdoors</a></span></span></p> <p><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2008/11/history-of-bonsai.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">09/03 - The History of Bonsai</span></span></a></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2008/11/history-of-bonsai.html">09/11 – The History of Bonsai</a></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/simple-beginner-bonsai-trees-tips.html">30/10 – Simple Beginner Bonsai Treeps Tips</a></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/mini-bonsai-trees.html">30/10 – Mini Bonsai Trees</a></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/bonsai-trees-can-be-revived-if-you-have.html">30/10 – Bonsai Trees Can be Revived if You Have Patience</a></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/using-artificial-bonsai-to-decorate.html">30/10 – Using Artificial Bonsai to Decorate Your House</a></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/life-of-flowering-bonsai.html">30/10 – The Life of a Flowering Bonsai</a></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/bonsai-care-what-to-consider-when.html">30/10 – Bonsai Care: What to Condiser When Lookin After Your Plants</a></span></span></p> <p><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://lapaginaverdedelbonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/chicago-botanic-gardens-bonsai.html">30/10 – The Chicago Botanic Garden's Bonsai Collection is Regarded by Bonsai Experts as one of the Best Public Collections in the World</a></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" valign="top" width="100%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- INIZIO del codice HTML di zanox-affiliato --></span></span></p> <p align="center"> <span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!--(Il codice HTML non deve essere modificato per garantire la assoluta funzionalità)--></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://ad.zanox.com/ppc/?10548723C267916427T"><img src="http://ad.zanox.com/ppv/?10548723C267916427" alt="2009 Japanese Calendars 1" align="bottom" border="0" hspace="1" /></a></span></span></p> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><!-- FINE del codice HTML fi zanox affiliato --></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr valign="top"> <td rowspan="2" width="50%"> <a href="http://www.jdoqocy.com/click-2791513-10378254" target="_top"> </a><p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><a href="http://www.jdoqocy.com/click-2791513-10378254" target="_top"><img src="http://www.ftjcfx.com/image-2791513-10378254" alt="Items in Bulk" width="120" border="0" height="600" /></a></span></span></p> </td> <td width="50%"> <p align="center"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b>My Favorites</b></span></span></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="50%"> <p><a href="http://imagesoftheworld.page.tl/Andes.htm"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">09/03 - 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Sistemazione</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/insetticidi-fungicidi-e-diserbanti.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Insetticidi, fungicidi e diserbanti</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/wabi-e-sabi.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Wabi e Sabi</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/criteri-di-coltivazione.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Criteri di coltivazione</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/10/studiare-i-bonsai-milano.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">18/10 – Studiare i Bonsai a Milano</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/08/in-giappone-il-prunus-mume-da-sempre.html"><span style="font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size:85%;">09/08 – Azalea, bonsai del portamento elegante e dalla fioritura spettacolare</span></span></a></p> <p><a href="http://hobbybonsai.blogspot.com/2008/08/in-giappone-il-prunus-mume-da-sempre.html"><sp