Erbil Times

Demonstrations

2008-02-29T02:31:00.000-08:00

Just in case you're wondering whether or not I am safe, let me assure you that I am. Because of recent attacks against the PKK in Northern Iraq, many students have taken liberties to protest the incursion. See the above pictures of my university and sign-carrying students. There are some signs of democracy in the making.

A must-see site to check out

2008-02-23T04:13:00.000-08:00

Listed below is a really cool website (related to Iraqi children) which I think you will enjoy checking out. If your internet connection is slow, like mine, you'll have to wait a few minutes to load the videos, but they are worth the wait.

http://buyshoessavelives.com/

Valentine's Day in Iraqi Kurdistan

2008-02-15T22:25:00.000-08:00

Me and a sweet little Kurdish girl at the University

Let's just say that the way that non-westerners celebrate Valentine's Day is unlike anything I've ever witnessed. It's a mixture of the East and the West....kind of. It was wonderful to see the Kurds, Assyrians and Arabs dancing and celebrating this day together. Similar to sports, holidays can bring out the best in everyone.

Seeing the snow in Kurdistan!

2008-02-14T22:32:00.001-08:00

Student get-together

2008-01-30T06:43:00.000-08:00

A special holiday with the students
Couldn't leave this one out
An all-school special day
Three of my students

Iraq's New Flag half satisfies everyone

2008-01-16T03:59:00.000-08:00

Iraq’s new flag half satisfies everyone
by Chalaan Charif*
15-01-2008

After years of debate, Iraq has finally ended the uncertainty over its national flag. At least for now.

The new Iraqi flag is the sixth since modern Iraq was created in 1921. The colours white, black, green and red form the basis of five of them and represent the four most important Arab-Islamic powers from history. The first Arabic flag is the present Palestinian one.

These four colours are used in the flags of most Arabic countries. In 1958, the army overthrew the monarch and founded a republic. A year later, a new flag was devised. In addition to the four colours, there was a yellow Sun symbolising the Iraqi Kurds. In 1963, Arab nationalists came to power, with the aim of setting up a single state with Egypt and Syria called the Federation of Arab Republics. A flag was prepared with three stars.

In 1990, after the invasion of Kuwait, Saddam wanted to get the Muslims behind him in his war against the West. He added the Islamic slogan "Allah Akbar" to the Iraqi flag, written in his own handwriting.Opponents of the present flag, especially the Kurds, are having to make do for the moment with a few minor changes and a new explanation of its three stars. These interim changes are designed as a stopgap solution until the divided Iraqi community can dream up a national flag acceptable to all.

On the new flag, the text "Allah akbar" (God is great) changes from green to yellow, the Kurdish national colour. It is also printed in traditional Kufi script, replacing Saddam Hussein's handwriting.

The stars no longer stand for the three aims of Saddam Hussein's Ba'th Party, (Arabic) unity, freedom and socialism but for the cornerstones of the new Iraq, peace, tolerance and justice. The flag's colours now represent Islamic civilisation, rather than Arabic glory. For nearly five years, the leaders of Iraq have been squabbling over a new flag. This often led to irritation and confusion amongst international partners, who no longer knew precisely what the Iraqi flag looked like.

In May 2004, more than a year after Saddam's statue had been toppled in Baghdad's Paradise Square, Iraq's new leaders had to think of a solution to the flag problem. In just a few weeks, the Olympic Games were starting in Greece and the Iraqi athletes did not know which flag they should parade under.

The Iraqi leaders decided to have a new flag designed. One of them phoned his brother, a well-known architect working in London, and asked him to come up with a possible flag as quickly as possible. The design had to include an Islamic symbol and satisfy Kurdish demands. Apart from these provisos, he could let his fantasy run wild.

The architect, who had been domiciled in the West for 40 years, put down what came into his head: a white flag with, in the lower part, two blue stripes separated by a yellow one. In the white area, there was a blue crescent moon. Mesopotamia's two rivers, Islam and the Kurds were all represented. The white background stood for hope in a new future.

Many Iraqis found the change shockingly radical. The four colours which had formed the basis of all Iraq's flags in the 20th century had gone. Blue and yellow are not to be seen in any Arabic flag, and the only country in the region with a blue and white flag is Israel. Many Iraqis thought that this could not be coincidence. The design symbolised American Iraq, on which Arabic brothers were turning their backs and which had thrown itself into the arms of the enemy, Israel and the West. The revolutionary design disappeared deep in a drawer, with the result that Iraq has been without an official flag over the intervening years.

Massoud Barzani, president of Iraq's Kurdistan regional government, took a bold decision that the flag under which thousands of Kurds had been killed would no longer fly in Kurdish areas. However, the Kudish province of Sulaymaniyah, stronghold of the rival Kurdish leader Jalal Talabani, took a more pragmatic view of the flag and its ‘fascist past'. The flag carried on being used there but without the text "Allah akbar"which had been added by Saddam during the First Gulf War.

A conference of Arabic parliaments is to be held in the Kurdish capital, Erbil, and this has led to the flag again becoming an issue. Initially, Mr Barzani refused to use the present Iraqi flag. Now, he will accept the present flag as long as a completely new one is eventually found.

Copyright Radio Netherlands Worldwide 2008 Disclaimer

Enjoying students at the University

2008-01-04T03:18:00.000-08:00

Dohuk

2007-12-29T05:42:00.000-08:00

My friend with local Yazidi friends
Dohuk Dam
Ancient Yazidi Temple
Another view of the Dohuk Dam

A trip to Dohuk & Akre

2007-12-28T09:10:00.000-08:00

On the way to Akre
The ancient city of Akre
Me and a good friend in Akre
Girls celebrating the Eid Festival
A scary ride for the children (Akre)

During my Christmas/Eid break I took a trip to Dohuk, Akre and Zakho. I had a great adventure over 6 days. Thanks to a good friend, I was able to drive the car during one of our trips. Since I haven't driven for a year it was exciting to get behind the wheel again. Although driving in Iraq is considered to be dangerous, mostly due to crazy drivers, I must say the drive was uneventful and we arrived at our destination intact. During my break I was unable to visit all of my friends in Dohuk during my time there. I also spent a fun day in Zakho with some like-minded people and feasted on American junk food. The pictures on this post were taken in Akre.

Santa's in Iraq!

2007-12-28T08:52:00.000-08:00

This Christmas season has been especially nice for me because I've been able to spend quality time with my friends here in Erbil and in Dohuk. I've been amazed at the transformation of the city, especially the Santas and Christmas lights sprouting up all around Erbil. Although there is not a large Christian community here, I find that many people enjoy this celebration even if they are muslims. I also decorated my apartment with streams of lights, some reindeer, a beautiful christmas tree and door lights. During this Christmas season I've thoroughly enjoyed hosting some friends here in my home too. Hospitality is something the Kurds are experts at and I've learned many important things from them. Because of this, I want to reciprocate their hospitality....this truly brings joy into my life. I think Christmas in Kurdistan has been very good for me and I hope to repeat it next year too.

Chips

2007-12-04T04:57:00.000-08:00

This is one of my most favorite pictures I've taken since returning to Kurdistan.

Carpets

2007-12-04T03:42:00.000-08:00

Traditional Kurdish carpets

Where They Don't Shoot Americans

2007-11-27T04:44:00.000-08:00

ABC News' Terry McCarthy has been reporting on war, peace, and everything in between from all around the world for 20 years. He writes about daily life in the areas he is reporting from.
March 14, 2007 http://blogs.abcnews.com/bizarrebazaar/2007/03/where_they_dont.html

Being an American in Iraq is, to say the least, not an automatic passport to friendship. While most Iraqis were relatively favorably disposed to Americans at the time of the 2003 invasion, attitudes have hardened since then, as the inexorable violence has soured people on the US project to bring freedom and democracy to this region. Polls now find that more than half of all Iraqis think it is legitimate to attack US soldiers. Iraqis are still courteous to American civilians, but many mutter darkly behind their backs about the horrendous mistakes Americans have made here.

There is one exception -- Kurdistan. Up in the mountainous north they love the US of A. People with money buy Chevy Tahoes and Hummers -- painted red and yellow, the civilian models, a world away from the up-armored military versions that brave roadside bombs in the rest of the country. In Sulaymaniyah they still crowd into MaDonalds, the burger outlet that is close to its American inspiration. As we moved through the streets filming, people constantly came up to us to tell us about their cousins in San Diego or their uncle in Detroit. One man with family in Orange county insisted on inviting us to a meal of roasted sheep’s head, a local delicacy. We told him we had an interview with the prime minister and had to leave immediately...

The reason for all this goodwill is the same reason Kurdistan is so peaceful: from 1991 the US provided air cover to enforce a no-fly zone over the Kurdish north, keeping Saddam’s army out and allowing the Kurds to build up their own defense force, the peshmerga. When the US invaded in 2003 the Kurds cheered as Saddam, who had bombed them with poison gas, was deposed. The Kurds are surrounded by countries who are, at best deeply suspicious of them, and at worst openly hostile to their separatist aspirations: Turkey, Syria and Iran. The US has become the Kurds’ best friend.

Today American civilians live openly and quite safely in the Kurdish north. Harry Shute, a former US army colonel and one-time New Jersey cop, has set himself up in Erbil as a private security consultant, and does a lot of work for the local government. He likes to answer the question of how many US soldiers have been killed in Kurdistan since the war began -- “None, Zero.”

One day we were filming in the old bazaar in Erbil and we suddenly found ourselves in the middle of a large group of American tourists. Kurdistan, it seems, is the hot new destination for those who like a little thrill of excitement when they get an Iraq stamp in their passport, but don’t have to worry about actually getting shot at. The worst that could happen is to find oneself facing a sheep’s head without a good excuse to turn down the hospitality.

Even in the rain there is beauty to behold

2007-11-24T23:58:00.000-08:00

The beautiful Kurdish mountain-range

Shanadar Cave

The beautiful scenery in Kurdistan never ceases to amaze me. I'm so thankful for wonderful friends who let me explore God's majestic beauty. Today was the first day I heard the birds singing joyously and the little critters (like squirrels) scampering around the mountainside. It's truly a sign for me, that peace has come once again.

A walk through town

2007-11-24T20:08:00.000-08:00

Down the street from the University

A local advertisement

Choly Minaret (Al- Mudhafferiya Minaret) originally was a mosque. It's named after (Mudhaffer Al- Deen Kokberi). It's (37) m high and dates back to (1123-1163 A.D.)

A Mural of dancing Kurds
The local car lot filled with SUV's and Hummers

Taxi rides in style?

2007-11-15T02:12:00.000-08:00

Well, I must say this was the first time I've ever experienced a taxi ride where the driver had a DVD player in his visor! Only in Kurdistan can you see these things! When a friend and I got into the taxi, the driver immediately started a Bollywood film in the player. When we started laughing about the film, the driver changed the DVD to a MTV-like dancing/singing video. Many men in Iraq believe that western women want to listen to loud disgusting music and/or watch revealing videos in their midst....the reason....Hollywood.

Did anyone say shopping??

2007-11-10T11:13:00.000-08:00

If there is one past-time that takes my breath away it is shopping at the local Langa Bazaar (market). It is an open market filled with new and used goods. As you can see by the pictures, a person could get lost in the piles of clothing that are scattered about the bazaar. Even the young boys get in on the act! In the massive heaps of used garments, you can find beautiful knit sweaters, wool, velvet and leather jackets, and designer coats literally for 250 ID (Iraqi Dinar) to 5000 ID. And even though the exchange rate is only 1250 ID = $1.00, you can still hunt down a bargain. After the clothing area, one must check out the shoe and boot section of the market so you can try on some really cool black leather knee boots or a pair of Birkenstock’s. Needless to say, I never leave that place without a pile of clothing in my arms. Next to sharing a meal with my Kurdish friends, I must say that shopping the local markets for bargains is my second greatest pleasure here.

Local Mosque

2007-11-10T11:04:00.000-08:00

Even though my shutter refused to open for this picture, I thought the lighting came through very nicely on this newly-built mosque in Erbil.

Apartment living

2007-11-08T04:02:00.000-08:00

Thought I'd at least show you some pictures of my new home in Erbil. Can't believe that I live in such a comfortable and beautiful setting.

A short trip to Bekhal

2007-11-08T02:49:00.000-08:00

Late last month I took a one-day trip to Bekhal with one of my students and his family.
It was a joyful trip...one filled with spectacular sights and tasty Kurdish food. Going on trips with Kurdish friends is one of the highlights of living in Iraq. I absolutely love this place and the friends I have here! It took just a few hours to get into the picnic mood and we were soon swept away by the smiling faces of the kids and the waterfall at Bekhal. It's a wonder people speak unfavorably about Iraq when they haven't experienced it firsthand. Being a peaceful part of the nation, Kurdistan relishes in its mountains and its traditions and since I don't really have traditions of my own, I'm completely content on experiencing those of my host nation. During the trip we stopped off at Pank, a very small theme park. This park had a Ferris wheel and a bobsled-type cart that rolled down the side of the mountain. It was during this ride down that I was taken by surprise by a runaway bobsled behind me, which rammed into me twice. Needless to say, I didn't go back on the ride and I was determined to warn others not to either. Unfortunately, safety on rides doesn't seem to be a priority here and when I finished the ride, I was told by my friend that 2 people were ejected and killed on this same ride just a few months before. As the evening came, we sat down and ate our 2nd meal of the day and watched a busload of picnickers dancing in their bus. It is a common occurence to see a group of Kurds riding a bus and dancing to their music and sometimes they will stop their bus and get out on the side of the road and continue their jig. It is an incredible sight, one which I really missed while I was away. On the trip home, I received a 2-hour Kurdish Sorani lesson, which were recordings used by the US military, so there were phrases in the lesson that were quite amusing. The trip ended when I arrived safely back in Erbil!

The local Citadel

2007-09-29T10:19:00.000-07:00

Today I went to a site I've always wanted to visit since I first saw it from a distance.... Arbela's (Erbil's ancient name) Citadel, located in the Suk (town center). The Citadel (an actual place of residence) is said to date back to 7000 B.C. and is still inhabited today, although just recently all but one family has been requested to move out. The reason is to restore it so its antiquity value will remain for years to come. I find that when I walk through these places you lose your sense of the past because it is so much older than my own country's history. I like nothing better than to walk the streets of these ancient places and think about the people who lived there. What was life like for them? Did they live in peace? Did the Kurds always live here or were there other tribes that walked those narrow walkways?

Summer in Greece

2007-09-26T03:00:00.000-07:00

My favorite part of traveling to Greece this past summer was having the opportunity to see the beautiful and majestic-like churches which appeared everywhere. I was fortunate enough to spend almost 1 month basking in the hot sun of this Mediterranean country. Some of my favorite places which I visited included Corinth, an ancient capital city of Greece first occupied during the Neolithic period, destroyed by the Romans in the 2nd century BC, and then rebuilt as a Roman colony by Julius Caesar in 44 BC. Another place of angelic beauty was Meteora, a fantastic sight of peaks upon which medieval monks built monasteries, several of which are still active. The city of Athens was delightful but didn't hold the same charm as other less inhabited cities. Finally, I have to mention the islands. I visited 4 in total but spent an entire week in Santorini, located in the Cyclades, Aegean Sea. It has one of the most spectacular landscapes in Greece and in the world, where traditional villages of the island are built on tall cliffs which in turn offer a breathtaking view over a submerged dorment volcano, which last erupted in 1956.

In the Beginning

2007-09-25T23:14:00.000-07:00

On a number of occasions I have contemplated starting a blog and today is that day when I'm putting it into action....on my birthday! I want this blog to be for my family and friends who have often wondered why I live in the places that I do and have had many questions for me but were too timid to ask. I'm not the best of writers but I will write with as much detail and interest as possible. Writing has never come naturally to me but it's definitely something I've always wanted to conquer. May my time on this blog be as beneficial to you as it will be for me.