The Escape

The Red Lines Mean Gravel Roads

2009-10-02T00:19:00.002+02:00

After a great 3 nights in Swakopmund it was off to our last destination in the southern part of the country. But not after fixing our flat tire.

We set out early morning for a rather short 380km drive to NamibRand Reserve near Sesriem. At least it seemed that way on the map. Little did we know that shortly after passing through Walvis Bay with its flamingos were we in for sand, salt and gravel roads. That made our 4 hour journey at 60km/h nearly an 8 hour drive. Damn was I pissed. Rocks on the road. Bumps and rivets. Everything to slow me down and without solution. Slow and easy.

The start of the journey had us driving through sand dunes and by now we were more into rocky terrain with mountains. No matter where you are in Namibia, the landscape is to die for.

After watching the minutes go by we finally arrive at Wolwedans Lodge by which time I had enough of this gravel bullshit and just wanted to get to a cold bottle of Tafel beer. Even at the gate to the lodge it was still another 20km on bad dirt road. But for all of this trouble we were in a truly untouched and unspoiled part of the country.

With its tented rooms surrounded by mountains and sand filled valleys this was a place to take it all in. I definitely recommend this place if you can arrange for a flight in.

Now how will I handle the drive back to Windhoek on these dirt roads?

Off to the Coast.

2009-09-26T01:48:00.002+02:00

From Mokuti, we headed towards the coast making a stopover at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. The lodge is just off the beaten track and built in between huge stone croppings. Crazy to think that all the building materials had to be carried up to the site. We even had to be transported to the lodge by a 4x4 just to get over the top.

We spent one night there and were treated to baboons and a beautiful sunset. From our tented rooms (with ensuite) we could sit and enjoy the surrounding serenity. Something that is actually very easy to find in this country.

From Erongo, we made our way to Swakopmund. This was were I had spent my New Year on the beach. We rented a flat and weren't too sure what it would be like. I had some help from our neighbours next to the lodge who helped plan this trip and they recommended a flat over a hotel room. And it ended up being the right choice.

The flat had 2 bedrooms, kitchen, living room and large balcony overlooking the ocean. It even had a garage for the Toyota to sleep in. No doubt the right choice, and much cheaper. I even paid for it!!!

We explored Swakopmund and I was able to get out and wander on my own. A few bars pulled me in and I met some more great people. It so happened that there would be an Oktoberfest that weekend and we were keen on checking it out. With a full band and 100 people, I think the whole town showed up!

Every evening was spent on the balcony waiting for the sun to go down and every night the sunset turned out perfect!

Just before we left Swakopmund our little Toyota suffered its first flat tire.

My House, My Home, My Life

2009-09-22T21:16:00.001+02:00

Now it was time to show my parents my life. Where was I spending my last 8 months...without much time off.

Mokuti, just outside Etosha National Park, is 525km north of Windhoek. So the stop at Okonjima broke up the journey. Not to say my 160km/hr+ driving did help speed things up. The roads are straight, smooth and quiet. Not to mention that my first time behind the wheel in 12 months was going to be exciting. Pedal to the metal!

At Mokuti, my parents were treated to a fantastic room and were able to do nothing but relax. The only appointments were for wildlife safaris and of course, the spa. What a way to live. And get this, they saw 87 elephants at one waterhole. Four herds coming together. Quite spectacular.

I introduced my parents to all my new friends and colleagues; Anand, Ina, Chris, Vendi, and the whole bar team, Jackson, Daniel, Patrick, Erenst and Daement. These are the faces I see everyday...every...day.

I did spend some time in the office, but at least dinner was a family event and I think the liked what they saw.

The Fam in Nam

2009-09-20T21:00:00.002+02:00

It didn't take much convincing, but my parents finally made it to another continent. I would get some time off and we would explore Namibia and all its treasures.

Their first night was spent in Windhoek to catch up on some sleep and relax for a bit. We had rented a car and our first task was to pick it up. Just as a general note I told my Dad not to expect to much in terms of customer service and punctuality. Sure enough, I didn't have to repeat myself after we finally had the keys to the rental in my hand.

That evening we had a fantastic dinner with colleagues at The Heinitzburg Hotel.

After a night in Windhoek we were headed to Okonjima Lodge. The lodge used to be a hunting farm now turned into a conservation area for big cats and hyenas. Our two nights there really kicked off the trip.

Our first activity at the lodge was to drive into one of the cheetah habitats and search for the cats. Not too much longer and five cheetahs were circling the truck. The cheetah are obviously used to the people and cars so they are somewhat habituated. Still, to see these creatures so close really makes an impression. Most of these cats are either orphans or don't have much chance to return to the wild. Cheetahs are one of the only cats that learn how to hunt from their mother. Other cats can do it instinctively. So when a cub is orphaned it stands little chance in the wild.

The next day would be leopard spotting. Once again, these cats also stand little chance of surviving in the wild. They are all fitted with radio collars to help with the spotting. Now, make no mistake. The conservancy is on a huge farm. And even if you get close enough by radar it still doesn't mean the leopard is out in the open. The first day we had no luck and didn't find anything. We headed out a second time and after traversing a dry river bed, up and over rocks, we spotted a leopard hovering over its warthog carcass. Again, at close range we see how impressive this animal is.

Without any complaints and leaving bewildered and astounded by the first stop of our trip we would head north to Mokuti lodge to relax for four nights before making our way to the coast.

FORE...and a leopard

2009-08-08T01:51:00.004+02:00

No rain.

On the upside things are looking much better at the lodge. Guests from around the world are coming and checking out the park and enjoying the sights of Namibia. AND ITS TIME FOR ME TO EXPLORE AGAIN...

I had the chance to tag along with a professional photographer into Etosha National Park last week and it was a great to get off the property again. We headed out at 7h00 and spent the entire morning in the park. Its is a surreal place. Something you can't describe. The waterholes are bringing in all the animals. Amazing to see what most of you have only seen on TV.

The best sightings were of a male lion with its wildebeest kill and a leopard just jumping out of its tree. Amazing...Oh, and the large bull elephant knocking a makalani palm tree for its fruit.

Later that week a few of us tried a new take on golf and took a swing out at the airstrip. No doubt I should have kept up my foursome.

Still in the Bush

2009-05-13T02:04:00.002+02:00

So now I really don't have a good excuse. No sharks, no buses and no border crossings.

The lodge is coming to life. Finally all major buildings have been finished and the few remaining projects, IT, pathways and landscaping details are underway. All we need are guests! No doubt we are all waiting for our first full house.

The snake park curator is busy catching snakes, scorpions and freeing snared warthogs. There are bushmen who live around the area and our fences make perfect routes for placing snares on game trails. Definitely a problem and our anti-poaching drives are trying to catch the culprits.

I went on a full moon game drive with another conservation worker. It's quite amazing how much you can see in the bush with a full moon. Even some animals wandering around; kudu, giraffe, oryx, and more. And the birds. There are so many birds here.

It hasn't rained since early March and the bush is slowly thinning and dulling to brown. This is the best time to see the animals as the water holes start drying up and only a few main water holes remain full.

AND...EVERY SUNSET IS OUT OF THIS WORLD! REALLY!

And then the stars...you have to see them for yourself. Learning all new constellations and can't resist looking up every night I walk home. But also down to avoid stepping on anything.

Off to Work

2009-03-14T20:43:00.005+02:00

The hotel is still quiet, but we finally have a full management team together. The next few weeks will involve trainings, and setting policies and procedures. Lots of homework for me to do. Buildings are still going up and its exciting to watch the progress in the Boma outdoor grilling restaurant, pool bar, and spa.

Crazy thing last week. I was walking home early in the morning and stumbled across a group of giraffes. Maybe 6 or 8. They saw me and then galloped away, but being so close was amazing.

Then, later on I caught a scorpion in front of my house. Something like 3 or 4 inches long. But now it has gone missing...and all scorpions are poisonous. Bad news.

In the Bush

2009-02-21T19:57:00.006+02:00

After spending those last weeks travelling around east and southern Africa, it was either time to pack up and head home or find a solution to stay longer. And here is the solution. While in Namibia I picked up a job at a lodge in Etosha National Park.

Shortly after my visit to Johannesburg I flew back to Tanzania to pick up the rest of my belongings. Augustine kept my room and all of my things in order while I was away. I only spent two days in Morogoro before heading back to Dar Es Salaam to catch my flight to Namibia. It was great to meet the new volunteer staff with YCI and to sit with Jessica and Godfrey. I was craving local food so we went out for some mishikaki and chipsi.

So now I am working and living at a lodge in the middle of the bush. It is still under renovation and will be a spectacular 106-room property when finished. We currently only have a few guests in house, but just a few days ago we did have a tour group of 100 guests. The lodge has an airstrip and most groups fly in. This group flew in on two DC-6 aircraft. Unbelievable machines!The experience so far is hard to describe. Its been almost two weeks and everything is amazing. Last week we had lions roaming the property and there is always the possibility of crossing paths with a spitting cobra or black mamba when heading home after work. Not to worry. The closest medical facilities are only one hour away. I really am in the bush.

J-Bay to Jo'burg

2009-02-03T11:30:00.003+02:00

Now you might be wondering why I haven't written any new information about my travels. The answer is quite simple; exciting fun! The past days in Jeffreys Bay have turned from one night to two, and in the end, to five nights. No doubt due to the convincing of Emma at reception.

Each day, more and more interesting people would pass through. People travelling from Norway, Egypt, Mauritius, Sweden, Holland, France, UK, Brazil, Canada and the US. And the staff (like the bar staff, Ronel, Werner, Kim, and Fabian) compliment the vibe and everything about the place; hence the name Island Vibe I guess.

After spending at least two hours surfing everyday, sometimes four, we would head in for lunch and then for a relaxing nap. Love the napping. And then after the napping some more surfing and lounging around. This place is amazing. Then as the sun went down the bar turned into a party. It felt like being in someone's house or being at home with friends, a lot of friends.

Every day came the thought of leaving, but there was no reason to. The only way I was going to leave was if I booked a flight out to Tanzania. So I did. And I booked it all the way back to Namibia.

J-Bay, or at least Island Vibe, is one of the greatest places to relax and meet friends.

I met Adam from Egypt and Alex from Mauritius who were heading up to Port Elizabeth and was able to catch a lift with them. Great guys.

From PE I flew to Johannesburg to meet up with Shannon who I met in Swakopmund. She picked me up from the airport and it took us four hours on a normal 45 minute route. Imagine the hectic traffic during the 2010 Worldcup. I will crash here for two night before flying to Dar Es Salaam and head back to Morogoro to pick up my things. Nothing exciting in Jo'burg.

Supertubes

2009-01-27T12:37:00.006+02:00

With only four backpackers staying at Storms River the night quickly turned into a competition of quarters with the bartender. We made sure he left coming back the next morning with a headache.

The worlds highest commercial bungy is at the Bloukrans Bridge between the Eastern and Western Cape. 216 metres. Unfortunately, not one of the three other backpackers wanted in and I was left without a shuttle to get to the bridge.

From Storms River I headed east to surfing mecca Jeffreys Bay where all the pros come out to ride the tubes and compete for price money. I tried my hand at a few tiny waves and managed to ride a few of them in standing up. But the hits I took were hard. The water is very shallow and any fall puts your body in contact with the sandy bottom.The backpackers I am staying at is right on the beach and the bar is always busy. My head still hurts and now I feel sorry for that bartender.

Into the Wilderness

2009-01-24T10:15:00.004+02:00

I arrived in Wilderness yesterday taking the Bazbus from Cape Town.

The quite little town is nestled between rolling hills and the rolling waves of the ocean. The backpackers is relaxing and inviting. We enjoyed a guitar session around a bonfire last night.

Time to enjoy the sand, sun and maybe check out some surfing and bungee jumping tomorrow.

Shark Bait

2009-01-21T09:26:00.012+02:00

Cape Town is wonderful. The waterfront is built up and new looking with a vast selection of restaurants and bars. Easy to spend money. Trapped again.

Most visitors to Cape Town will notice the shanty townships that line the highway into the city. Nothing nice to look at or even debate with the locals. Simple houses, actually shacks with tin roofs and a single power line to a central transformer in the middle. Looks like the skeleton of a circus big top.

Our dorm at The Backpack has eight beds, one of which hosts a new friend from the UK. Michael is from England and just finished his travels in Australia and will leave on an overlander tour up to Kenya. With the city leaving our pockets feeling lighter than when we first arrived we decided to head out on the open ocean for some diving with the infamous White Shark. You can add "Great" to the title for glitz and glamour.

The day started at 0530 with a pickup and then a 2 hour drive to Gansbaai. Michael had wanted to pick up some motion sickness tablets and gladly took an offer from another diver when she offered a tablet.

At Gansbaai we met the rest of the crazies who paid money to swim with these fish. A short drive from Gansbaai to the harbour we boarded the vessel, packed with 20 people, and set out over the choppy seas. Choppy seas...Oh boy, my night before with the Norwegians wasn't too bright.

Near the infamous Shark Alley and seal colony we set anchor. Up and down. The crew began chumming and luring in the sharks. No guarantee of seeing anything as it was low in the season. With a slick of fish oil trailing the boat and fish heads tied to a buoy how could a shark resist?

Within about 30 minutes we caught a glimpse of the first White Shark. Seconds later the cage was in the water, wet suits were stretched over stomachs and we were in the cage. With 5 at a time in the cage, the crew would lure the shark with the fish heads towards the cage and just as it approached you would take a breath and go under into the 13C water. Up and down. The sharks would swim past the cage and sometimes going for a bite at the bait. I had a great view, face to face, or more like face to jaws, teeth, death of one shark. Adrenaline and excitement left me bewildered. Was it real?

We would trade places in the cage. Up and down. Taking a break from the cold water and battering waves. We saw three sharks that day with the largest measuring 2.5 metres.

After 3 hours at sea with everyone thrilled at their experience, we raised anchor, the boat went down and my lunch came up.

Out of Namibia

2009-01-17T18:08:00.007+02:00

Finally out of Namibia. Daniel and I planned to head down to Cape Town, South Africa early in the week by bus. At the hostel we met Carly, a Canadian from Vancouver, who was driving down to Cape town as well and offered us a ride. Or at least we suggested the idea of having us for company in her car.

We left on Friday morning making it through more desert with dry and long straight roads. It took us almost 8 hours to reach the border into South Africa.

At the border we stopped to go through customs. We parked our car and then proceeded to the numbered doors. Behind door number one was immigration. Door number two, customs. And finally, door number three, police. Behind the third door, numbered with a big red number 3, the police asked us who the driver was. Unsure if it was a serious question we hesitated as both Daniel and Carly were drivers. I had the luck of leaving my driver's license in Tanzania giving me the privilege of sleeping in the backseat. The police told us that whoever was driving should check the note on the driver side door. What did they leave for us? I tried making a joke out of it by asking if our car was too dirty to cross the border. Carly has a black car and after eight hours it had turned a brownish tan.

We walked back to the car and looked for the note left for us. No piece of paper, but on the hood of the car in big finger cursive the words, "Please wash me!" were traced into the dirt. Through the window of the police station I could see the officers laughing and we laughed back. Imagine crossing into the U.S.A. with a good laugh!

That evening we were told to visit Fiddler's Creek just into South Africa. A tour guide from Windhoek had suggested it to us. Twenty minutes down a dirt road and through farmer's field we found the campsite and Orange River, one of the longest in Africa. These are the kinds of places you wouldn't find unless someone pointed you in the right direction. Fiddler's Creek is mainly an overlander campsite, but the season is slow now and there were only two trucks there. Daniel even bumped into a tour guide he met in Swaziland.

We arrived just before sunset without food or a tent. We asked for any leftover dinner, which they generously offered us. Before dinner we went for a quick dip in the river. Nice and warm.

Without a tent we grabbed our sleeping bags, found a lush soft spot of grass and camped out under the stars. The resident dog curled up next to Daniel.

The next morning we headed down to Cape Town. The landscape changes from dry land to mountainous rock spotted with wineries and citrus trees thanks to the river flowing through the valley.

After 6 speedy hours we made it to Cape Town with Table Mountain setting an impressive background.

With penguins, mountains and great white sharks....when will I leave?

Hurray for Che

2009-01-15T11:57:00.003+02:00

So the German I met in Swakopmund, Daniel, and I are still exploring Windhoek. Or at least trying not to get robbed. Looks like we might leave soon enough.

Since I've been here I have heard of three people being jumped on the street. One story involves a couple at dinner and from their window seat they can see their car being broken into and some items stolen. This is all during daylight hours. When the dusk settles in the city all the streets are empty. No one is walking on the street.

Last night we checked out a local reggae band at a modern venue. Definitely fun. After the band we went next door to a bar called "El Cubano." Cool small place with flags hanging from the walls, salsa music, Cuban cigars and the staff donning shirts of "Che." Very cool hangout. Different age groups and everyone out for a good time.

What I've learned so far is that its easy to spend money in the city. Better here than in London or Paris.

Etosha National Park

2009-01-10T19:12:00.002+02:00

So far the past few days my life has offered some interesting opportunities. You will find out soon enough.

For the time I have been in Etosha National Park. More animals and even more lions. At least 8 or more.

Still enjoying Namibia. Maybe some of you can come and visit!

Short and Sweet.

Leaving Swakop

2009-01-06T16:34:00.003+02:00

Well, I finally made it out of Swakopmund, unfortunately. I arrived in Windhoek this afternoon by minibus and am not impressed at all. No breeze and no ocean. But hey, at least there's a mall.

I met a German at the hostel and I'm sure something interesting will plan itself in the next few days. Not to mention the friends I met in Swakop who live in South Africa. Just can't wait to check out and move on.

Stuck in the Sand

2009-01-05T12:01:00.007+02:00

Well, according to what the "plan", I should have left Swakopmund 5 days ago. I was ready to leave this morning, but I keep meeting interesting people.

On the way back to the hotel I bumped into a bus driver who was interested in my day and made friendly conversation. I few minutes later I found myself invited to come watch the Under 18 Fistball World Championships. Turns out he was the driver of the Swiss team. I had no idea what Fistball was so I was up for the show. Imagine a form of Volleyball.

There were only a few teams in this fairly new sport; Austria, Brazil, Chile, Switzerland, Germany and Namibia.

Germany took the title for the men and Austria for the women.
Maybe I'll move on tomorrow.

Midnight

2009-01-02T12:21:00.004+02:00

Nothing like ringing in the New Year on a beach with hundreds of friends.

We didn't make any reservations for a place to stay on New Years and luck had it that the entire city was booked full. The day we spent sandboarding we asked around and the common answers were to head to Tiger Reef Beach Bar and find a place to sleep on the beach. Maybe even shower in the ocean.

Back in town we still looked around for a room and Lindsey found a nice flat, twice the price. Oh well.

We started off with a few roadie pops and made our way to the beach to take in the last sunset of 2008! This place, Swakopmund, a mouthful to say is really beautiful. Filled with Gemuetlichkeit and all.

We then made it to Tiger Reef and met a few local friends and kept the conversation flowing. It was a pretty easy to talk. About anything really. I don't remember how deep the conversation was, but it was a great night.

The beach was full of people. Tents, bottles and a huge pyramid of wood. After midnight it turned into the tallest flame I had seen. People shot their fireworks and celebrated a new year.

I will stay here just a few more days while Lindsey and Scott head south for more adventure.

Face Full of Sand

2009-01-01T14:26:00.002+02:00

Scott, Lindsey and I spent New Years Eve on the sand dunes just outside Swakopmund, Namibia sandboarding.

The dunes are a few hundred metres tall and you are equipped with a snowboard for sandboarding, boots and a helmet. Most of us had minimal experience, but that didn't matter. We were all getting a face full of sand.

We had to walk up the dune with board in hand and attempt to make it down on the board. The last run even included a jump. Intimidating, but fun!

Skeletons

2008-12-30T11:09:00.006+02:00

During our time in Livingstone we met a Canadian engineer working in Johannesburg. He was on vacation from Jo'burg and was heading to Namibia. He offered a ride and we gladly accepted. No more buses for now.

We left Livingstone with Scott heading to Namibia. We passed up through the Caprivi strip, lush and green. and a couple monkeys. We drove for a few hours up until dusk. Throughout the park they were treating prevent foot and mouth disease. We had to get out of the car as the sprayed around it and had us step onto to a disinfecting mat.

Now we needed to find a place to stay. Looking through the lonely planet we found a safari camp that was just off the main road and outside the park. Scott's little 2-wheel drive Peugot did well through the sandy terrain and we made it to Ngepi Lodge. We reserved a deck tent for N$225. The lodge is on the banks of the Kwando River with resident Hippos.

The next day we were off again just trying to get as far into Namibia as possible. Leaving the camp in the morning proved trickier than expected as the little Peugeot almost drowned itself in a puddle. Just an inch more and the water would have spilt over the floor of the car. With the help of some local kids and a 4x4 with tow rope, we managed to pull out the sinking car.

Soon after we were back on the road heading into Namibia. After 6 hours we were in a small town called Outjo. We check into a lovely Bed & Breakfast, Dan & Mari. The owner a friendly local and the rooms immaculate. We grilled up some wieners for dinner and finished a bottle of gin before gently hitting the mattress.

Next morning we were treated to a tasty breakfast, bacon, eggs and cereal. Its been a while.

Now we were headed to the Skeleton Coast near Torra Bay on the South Atlantic. I can almost see the Canadian shore on the other side. The landscape was slowly changing from green bush to rock sandstone, to simply sand. Two ostriches were kind enough to say hello. The drive took us right to the coast and salt roads and the little Peugeot made it all the way. No 4x4 needed. Amazing to see so much land with nothing on it. Just bare.

In Swakopmund we are staying at a small backpackers in hopes of finding a place for New Years Eve. Everything seems to be fully booked.

A New Swinging Adventure

2008-12-24T16:10:00.005+02:00

Today was one to keep my heart pounding. Lindsey and I were off for some adrenaline and Des went for a walking safari through the park.

We were picked up at the hostel at 0830 and stopped at another hotel to pick up some other adrenaline junkies. That said, two were under 14 years old. Shit. If they can do it so can I.

What the full day entailed is this; rappelling, abseiling, zip-lining and a gorge swing. All of this take place in a gorge 146m wide and 96m metres deep. We arrived on site and checked out the size of the gorge. We were promptly introduced to the Gorge Swing. The other clients we picked up only opted for the Gorge Swing so Linds and I watched as the each took turns jumping of the platform. If they can do it so can I. They're little kids.

First we rappelled down the side of the gorge. Pretty cook, but not too scary. Now at the bottom of the gorge we had the thrill of walking all the way back up. Only about 15 minutes, but I was sweating buckets. At the top again we took the zip line. We geared up and clipped in. After a running start we flew, one by one, across the gorge. Just like Superman.

Gorge Swing 101.
When swinging across the gorge keep your arms tucked in and of course, screaming comes naturally. 53 metres of free fall and then a giant swing into the open gorge. First forwards, just like taking a big step. And then a second time backwards, rolling into the void.

Livingstone and Victoria Falls

2008-12-23T21:36:00.009+02:00

Finally after five nights in Lusaka Des and I met Lindsey at the bus station. Thankfully, Linds was willing to keep on trucking to Livingstone after just traveling for 2 days straight. We picked up our bus tickets for 90000KW and left Lusaka for our 7 hour journey to Livingstone.

Zambia seems so different. A prayer on the bus and even cold beverages. Most roads were good and the ride went well. Even with a minor break down.

In Livingstone we checked into Jollyboys backpackers hostel. It has a private rooms, dorms, bar and swimming pool. Great place with great people.

The next day we went to Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park to take in the natural wonder Victoria Falls. We walked through the park and down into gorges taking in the sights. There is so much mist and no way of staying dry. Even now it has rained every day, seven days straight. The rainy season is well underway. During the dry season the river dries out and only the main falls are flowing over the edge.

Later in the afternoon we booked a walking trek over the falls to Livingstone Island. The trek entailed wailing over the top of the falls for a few hundred metres, over stones and through fast flowing water. Our group formed a chained as not to get swept over the falls. Unbelievable how close we managed to come to the edge of the falls. We even had the chance to sit on the edge with our legs dangling over. Crazy!

It took close to an hour to reach the island. Just past the island is a small natural pool directly on the edge of the falls. If you know what an infinity pool is, imagine one where the edge drops over one hundred metres. After swimming over the top of the falls we jumped into the pool and held onto the ledge. The water was strong and my feet were being pulled up by the current. Definitely a rush. Just feet from death.

After swimming back to the island we enjoyed some cold beers and began our chain walk back to base. If you can see my shoes imagine walking barefoot over rock. They still sting!

Nothing to See Here

2008-12-19T15:57:00.003+02:00

A short entry. There is nothing to see in Lusaka. We are waiting for Lindsey to meet us here on Sunday so we can go to Victoria Falls.

Everyone here speaks good English making it easy to get around. There are two shopping malls and otherwise nothing interesting except getting used to the inflated currency.

Which Way to the Border?

2008-12-18T15:22:00.000+02:00

I met up with Desmond in Morogoro and we, along with Lindsey, decided to head down to Victoria Falls and then into Malawi for the holidays.

We left at 0900 and caught the bus heading to Mbeya. Mind you the bus was to leave at 0800 and the ride was long and fairly unpleasant. It took us 9 hours to cover the distance, but the landscape was spectacular. The road took us up through mountains and green forests, some coniferous. Something similar to what you could find in Canada. But it rained in the bus again. Looks like we are heading into the rainy season.

Once in Mbeya we played everything by ear as we had no Lonely Planet to inform us of the best places to stay and on how to get to Lusaka, Zambia. My Tanzanian Visa was due to expire the next day meaning I had to leave the country. We checked out the bus station for information and discovered that the trek to Lusaka was no easy feat. Only one company goes to Lusaka and it leaves at 1600 from Mbeya for 60000Tsh. The bus has to spend 24 hours at the border of Zambia, an hour away from Mbeya, before it can get clearance to enter the country. That means sleeping on the bus. At 1600 the next day it leaves the border and arrives early the next morning in Lusaka. If my math is right, that would be a 40+ hour trip. We said we would be back in the morning after we talked it over. After some local Mishikaki, grilled skewered meat, we found a hotel and spent the night.

After a hot shower, WOOHOO!, we headed back to the bus station to figure out a way to get to Lusaka. The bus employees we spoke with in the morning still didn't have anything better to offer so we inquired about walking across the border. We talked about hiring a car or finding an alternate way to get to the border. Our taxi driver from the hotel offered us a ride for 100,000Tsh! Am I white or what? Desmond went out and asked around. With brilliance, and I guess common sense as locals would never take a 60000Tsh bus, he found a local minibus that would take us to the border for 4000Tsh. It would take two hours to reach the border instead of one, but we were saving considerably. We left the bus station with smiles having won the battle.

In the minibus, now at 1000 in the morning, we told the locals our story of being offered a 100000Tsh ride to the border and we joined in a round of laughs.

Two hours later at the border we had little trouble crossing, got our $50 visas and crossed into Zambia. Right away we found a bus going to Zambia for 150000 Zambian Kwacha. The current exchange is around US$1 to KW5000. We offered 40000Tsh (a little high as we had no other currency) and got two seats on the bus. Although we arrived in Zambia at around 1200 the bus was scheduled to leave at 1600. We grabbed some food and walked around the small border town proud of ourselves for having saved time and money!

At 1600 the bus was still there and we were sitting in our seats waiting to leave. 1630. 1700. 1730. I should be getting used to this...1800. 1830. 1900. 1930. Finally at 2000 we were off! However, we noticed more safety regulations and anti-corruption posters in Zambia than in Tanzania. The bus conductor even gave a short welcoming over the PA on the bus and had someone say a short prayer. I was hoping the roads were better in Zambia, but the need for a prayer may signal otherwise.

And we were off. And the roads were great. And the bus wasn't going to fast. Des and I shared a row of three seats with another Tanzanian. It was cramped and uncomfortable. However, a free seat opened up and Des decided to move.

We arrived in Lusaka at 1030 alive, hungry and in one piece. No where to stay. It was off to a bookstore for a Lonely Planet guide.

Overlooking Morogoro

2008-12-15T15:17:00.001+02:00

Back in Morogoro and I have moved in with Augustin, our former safari guide. He has given me a room in his house overlooking Morogoro. It has a great view and the constant breeze is welcomed. Definitely thankful to have a place to stay.

Over the holidays, I will meet up with Desmond, YCI staff from Zanzibar, and we will head down to Zambia and Malawi. Lindsey has work to finish, but she will meet us in Lusaka before we make our way to Victoria Falls.

But for right now being back in Morogoro is great. I little down time before some more dreaded bus trips.