Gothic Epicures VinCuisine

VINTAGES July 18, 2009 Releases: tasting notes

2009-07-12T15:17:00.001-04:00

WORLD WINE WATCH (VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JULY 18, 2009
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing <deantudor@deantudor.com>
Always at www.deantudor.com since 1995. Also visit my "Wines, Beers and
Spirits of the Net Compendium", a guide to thousands of news items and
RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits.
My tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are
QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated
wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the
release for wine writers or product consultants. Also, some defective
or corked wines are not available for re-tasting.

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Cave Spring Chardonnay Musque 2007 VQA Beamsville Bench: light and
sort of musky, useful for summer patios. +246579, $15.95, QPR:90.
2. Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2008 VQA Twenty Mile Bench: off-dry, long
fruity and citric finish, 9.5% ABV. +43281, $16.95, QPR: 90.
3. Santa Ana La Moscota Chardonnay 2008 Mendoza: lightly toasted wood,
fresh chardonnay tones, citrus and apples. 14% ABV. +126870, $15.95,
QPR: 90.
4. Kim Crawford Pinot Gris 2007 Marlborough: some body, leafiness,
length, good for first course food, or sip on summer patio. 13.5% ABV.
Twist top. +680983, $19.95, QPR: 90.
5. Domaene Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner 2007 Kamptal: off-dry but with a
great finish, summery wine. Twist top. +965368, $14.95, QPR: 90.
6. Vinosia Essenza di Malvasia 2007 Salento: first course food wine,
upfront apricots and melons. +122341, $15.95, QPR: 90.
7. Gramona Gessami 2007 Penedes: tasty blend of muscats and sauvignon
blanc for length, multi-purpose sipper. +115782, $19.95, QPR: 90.

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Kim Crawford Hawkes Bay Merlot 2007: good blend with some obvious
franc showing, slightly leafy and herbal. 13.5% ABV. +680967, $19.95,
QPR: 90.
2. Kumkani Cradle Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Stellenbosch: very Euro
in style, earthy, black fruits. +107391, $19.95, QPR: 90.
3. Domaine de la Sauveuse Cuvee Carolle 2007: very expressive of the
region, good blend of syrah, cabernet sauvignon, Grenache, and
mourvedre. 13.5% ABV. Organic. +43174, $19.95, QPR: 90.
4. Domaine de Poujo Madiran 2005: Delivers rich complexity. Needs time
but don't pass up this value. +719674, $14.95, QPR: 90.
5. La Casa dell'Orco Aglianico 2005 Irpinia: deep, dense, delightful,
slightly bitter-sourish finish. Needs food. +123406, $15.95, QPR: 90.
6. Gladiator Primitivo di Manduria 2006: made for North Americans
watching the "Rome" DVD. 14% ABV, Zin-like, strong. +23119, $14.95,
QPR: 90.
7. Messapicus Riserva Salice Salentino 2005: tasty, cherries are
suggested, some mocha tones, longer than expected length. +121087,
$16.95, QPR: 90.
8. Tharru Cannonau di Sardegna 2006: herby, dry complexity, useful with
all manner of foods. +121053, $14.95, QPR: 90.
9. Can Bonastre Crianza 2006 Penedes: juicy, mostly merlot and cabernet
sauvignon with a touch of syrah. Ozzie anyone? +115733, $18.95, QPR:
90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

MEDIA TASTING: Latin American Wines, June 17, 2009

2009-07-10T17:26:00.001-04:00

The Time and Date: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 10AM to 1 PM

The Event: Wine Writers Circle of Canada tasting of Latin American wines.

The Venue: LCBO Scrivener Square

The Target Audience: wine writers

The Wines:

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

- Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Maipo Valley 14.5% alc LCBO #337238 Vintage Essentials $19.95

-Kankura Malbec 2007 Edition Limitee Valle de Colchagua 14.5% alc Consignment Small Winemakers Collection $24.95

-Sociedad Agricola los Maquis Calcu 2006 Valle de Colchagua 14.1% alc Consignment Small Winemakers Collection $14.95

-Dominio Del Plata BenMarco Malbec 2006 Mendoza 14% alc Consignment Profile Wine Group $22.95

-Bodega Catena Zapata Catena Malbec 2006 Mendoza 14% alc Vintage Essentials

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

- Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Syrah 2006 Rapel Valley 15% alc Vintages Jan 31/09 #19042 $19.95

-Trivento Golden Reserve Malbec 2006 Mendoza

14.8% alc Vintages avail June 20/08 #588731 $24.95

-Sociedad Agricola los Maquis Lien 2005 Valle de Colchagua 14.5% alc Consignment Small Winemakers Collection $24.95

-Vicar SA G7 Chardonnay 2006 Gran Reserva Casablanca Valley 13.5% alc Consignment Small Winemakers Collection $19.95

-Vicar SA G7 Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Gran Reserva Concomilla Valley 13.5% alc Consignment Small Winemakers Collection $19.95

-Cono Sur Chardonnay 2007 20 Barrels 13.5% alc Casablanca Valley +127498 $24.95

-Cono Sur Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 20 Barrels 14% alc Maipo Valley

-Vina Calina Alcance Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 14.5% alc Maule

*** Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Vicar SA G7 Shiraz 2007 Reserva Loncomilla Valley 13.5% alc Consignment Small Winemakers Collection $19.95

The Contact Person: sdarby@rogers.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 90

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *: Passion for Pinot

2009-07-09T17:32:00.000-04:00

1. PASSION FOR PINOT; a journey through America's pinot noir country
(Ten Speed Press, 2009, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-986-9, $30 US hard
covers) is by Jordan Mackay, a Texas and California wine writer. The
photography for this (largely) picture book is by Andrea Johnson and
Robert Holmes. Both are experienced travel photographers. "Pinot noir
country" actually just refers to the American West Coast. There is
nothing here on British Columbia, or on New York State. Nor is
sparkling wine covered. The blurb says that this is a portrait of the
most fashionable grape in the wine world, showcasing California and
Oregon producers. Pinot noir has been described as the perfect food
wine, with occasional silkiness for sipping. But most pinot noirs on
the US west coast don't even taste like a pinot noir should; they just
don't have the Modal Varietal Characteristics (MVC) of what makes pinot
great (i.e., classified Burgundy). Pinot noir come from Burgundy, and
it should taste Burgundian. There is nothing wrong with that.
Nevertheless, this is an engaging book, with profiles of top US pinot
producers, terroirs, and bottles. The text promotes the different
styles and approaches to the viticulture and viniculture of the pinot
grape. The photography clearly shows most of the terroir through the
many landscapes and seasons. Additional material is found in quotes and
sidebars and maps. All the AVAs are described, and there are photos of
the winemakers and owners. Typical estates covered include Calera,
Abbott Claim Vineyard, Acacia, Domaine Drouhin, Donum, Tualatin, Quail
Ridge, and many more.
Audience and level of use: travelers, pinot noir fanatics.
Some interesting or unusual facts: Statistics show that pinot noir
sales have increased 120 percent in the last two years. This is due to
the "Sideways" factor and to increased mass production of the lower
quality wines.
The downside to this book: there are very few actual tasting notes.
The upside to this book: great photography.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

LUNCHEON TASTING: Treana Red and White, Toronto, June 4, 2009

2009-07-08T21:29:00.001-04:00

The Time and Date: Thursday, June 4, 2009

The Event: a tasting of 10 vintages of Treana Red Paso Robles, from Hope Family Wines, led by Austin Hope, proprietor and winemaker.

The Venue: National Club

The Target Audience: wine media, sommeliers, clients.

The Availability/Catalogue: only Treana Red 2003 is currently available, although Liberty School labels are in Vintages.

The Quote/Background: The blend has varied over the years, beginning with sangiovese and petit syrah in its first vintage of 1996. Cabernet sauvignon and merlot and some syrah have been the anchors, but the Hope Family has also played around with mourvedre. With the Treana Red 2000, the blend became a consistent cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and syrah, with 14 months in all French oak (40% new). Then, in 2004, it became just cabernet sauvignon 70% and syrah 30%. This ratio moved forward into the 2005, 2006, 2007, and 2008 vintages, with now 65% new French oak. The 2002 wine was declassified because it was not up to their standards.

The Wines: we tasted 10 Treana Red vintages, with the Liberty School wines at lunch. We also had the current vintage of Treana White, a blend of viognier 53% and Marsanne 47% grapes. It showed mounds of fruit and Rhonish character (Consignment Bridge and then Vintages, +11247, $33.95). The 1996 Treana Red was their first vintage; no wine was bottled as Treana Red in 2002.

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Treana Red 1996 (with petit syrah and sangiovese added), not available

-Treana Red 1997, same blend

-Treana Red 2004 (70% cab, 30% syrah, +11221 Consignment Bridge and then Vintages, $44.95)

-Treana Red 2005

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Treana Red 1998 (with added mourvedre but no sangiovese)

-Treana Red 2001 (cab, merlot, syrah)

-Treana Red 2003 (cab, syrah, merlot: $48.95 Vintages +11221)

-Treana Red 2006

*** Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Treana Red 1999 (with added mourvedre), a bit leafy.

-Treana Red 2000 (cab, merlot and syrah)

The Food: at lunch, we had tiger shrimps with Liberty School Chardonnay 2007, +960120, $16.95 at Vintages August 15, 2009, a decidedly unabashed California chard with 50% French oak. Gnocchi with a mushroom ragout was accompanied by Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, +738823 Vintages Essential at $18.95, very robust with the potato component of the dish. Braised short ribs had a delightful Liberty School Syrah, +942383 $17.95 Vintages, with added viognier. Best wine at the meal.

The Downside: there were some vacant seats at this major tasting, which I found distressingwhere were these people?

The Upside: it is very rare in Toronto to have a vertical tasting of a California wine, and I was glad to have participated.

The Contact Person: phillip@nobleestates.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOKS...

2009-07-05T11:27:00.001-04:00

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOKS...

...are one of the hottest trends in cookbooks.
Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such
proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be
flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a
celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up
on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans
of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes in these books
actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally,
there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for
items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to
the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American,
they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes
there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not.
I'll try to point this out. The usual schtick is "favourite recipes
made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying
ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic
phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell
such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers
that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't
seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen
tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by
name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well
as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos
abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a
lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from
other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are
cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some
companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them
altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books

12. THE COMPLETE ROBUCHON (Alfred A. Knopf, 2008, 813 pages, ISBN 978-
0-307-26719-1, $35US hard covers) is by Joel Robuchon, who got three
stars in Michelin in 1984 and now has more than any other chef. He
was named "Chef of the Century" in 1989 by Gault Millau. He now works
as a consultant and runs L'Atelier restaurants around the world. This
current book was originally published in Paris in 2006, and has now
been translated for the English-speaking world. To his credit, notable
log rolling here is from various food writers, and not cooking
celebrities. At once this book is the definitive guide to how the
French person cooks now. Here are more than 800 precise, easy-to-follow
preps. The classics are here, some with updating such as the pot-au-
feu, cherry clafoutis, and sole meuniere. There are regional
specialties. The layout is terrific, with clear and precise service,
preparation times, and cooking and resting times. The lists of
ingredients include both avoirdupois and metric measurements. There are
no photos of platings or techniques, just the recipes. There is some
material on food and wine matching, but no specific names or labels are
used. Try pork skewers with prunes and bacon, saddle of hare with
mushrooms, smothered baby turnips with chicken juices, or roast duck
with spiced honey. It's just a shame, though, that this English book
could not spell hors d'oeuvre in its singular context. Quality/Price
rating: 89.

13. SANTA FE FLAVOURS; best restaurants and recipes (Gibbs Smith, 2009;
distr. Raincoast), 112 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0318-4, $9.99 US soft
covers) is by Anne Hillerman, a Santa Fe journalist and writing coach
who also reviews restaurants. In this book she delves into some 49
restaurants. For each, she gives a basic guide as to what to expect
(with signature dishes and price ranges), plus of course, the address,
phone number and website. Each description is illustrated by the logo,
and followed by a recipe, in most cases NOT a signature dish. It's all
arranged by course, beginning with the mains and moving through to
desserts. There is an index to both the recipes and to the restos, and
this is followed by a metric table of equivalents for the avoirdupois
measurements used in the ingredients' listing. It is nice to know that
some faves of mine are still in operation. A short glossary of New
Mexican dishes and foods completes the small package. Try basque-style
lamb hash, chipotle shrimp with corn cakes, carne adovada with chile
caribe, or sweet potato chipotle soup. The book is sure to do well as
POS at the establishments. Quality/Price rating: 89.

14. SIPS & APPS; classic and contemporary recipes for cocktails and
appetizers (Chronicle Books, 2009; distr. Raincoast, 204 pages, ISBN
978-0-8118-6406-0, $19.95 US hard covers) is by Kathy Casey, a
celebrity chef and mixologist, and author of nine cookbooks who has
appeared on TV and radio. She's also picked up some Beard nominations
and a Food & Wine award. She owns Dish D'Lish cafes and a consulting
firm. Here she produces a very useful match of "creative libations"
with "mouthwatering appetizers". There are about 100 recipes, 36 of
which deal with food. There is the usual primer data plus a sources
list. The creative cocktails are fusion version of standards, such as a
red square martini, a gin flower crush, or Lill'pertif (my fave). There
is also a mango mai tai, a green-eye daiquiri, and harvest pumpkin
toddy. For food, try sausage olive poppers, Bollywood chicken skewers,
pineapple avocado salsa, mushroom and fontina purses, croquet monsieur
puffs, or roasted pear crostini with gorgonzola. Quality/price rating:
88.

15. TASSAJARA DINNERS & DESSERTS (Gibbs Smith, 2009, 224 pages, ISBN
978-1-4236-0520-1, $30 US, hard covers) is by Dale and Melissa Kent,
who worked at the world famous Tassajara Zen Mountain Center for seven
years. I still remember the Tassajara Bread Book from the early 1970s,
written by Ed Brown. Here, the Kents take a look behind the doors of
the monastic kitchen. Preparing food can be a spiritual practice. There
are vegan and vegetarian recipes here. There are also accounts from
guest cooks such as Ed Brown, Deborah Madison, and scores of others.
There are vivid descriptions on how the kitchen process works and how
much zen is involved with food. The arrangement of the book is from
starters to sides to mains, beans, tofu, gains, pasta, and desserts.
Measurements are in avoirdupois, but there is a table of metric
equivalents at the back. Good, simple, solid food. Try Kahmiri-style
greens with roasted potatoes, mushroom galette, chickpea stew with
collard greens, olive oil date cake, peach pie, coconut custard with
lychees. Quality/price rating: 90.

16. 'WICHCRAFT; craft a sandwich into a meal and a meal into a
sandwich (Clarkson Potter, 2009, 208 pages, ISBN 978-0-609-61051-0
$27.50 US hard covers) is by Tom Colicchio, the chef-owner of Craft in
New York City. He has won many awards, including numerous Beards for
best chef, best new restaurant, and best general cookbook ("Think Like
a Chef"). Even so, his latest book needs logrolling from Eric Ripert,
executive chef/co-owner of Le Bernardin. He is assisted by Sisha
Ortuzar, his partner in the 'wichcraft sandwich shops in New York, San
Francisco, and Las Vegas; 13 of the chain have opened since 2003.
Additional credits include "text by Rhona Silverbush, photographs by
Bill Bettencourt". Colicchio has also been head judge for the four
seasons of "Top Chef" reality show. The preps here include fan faves
from his resto chain. There is a primer on stocking the pantry (along
with recipes), how to layer a sandwich (they're all huge), and making a
meal out of it all. There are also some detail and stories about the
restaurants themselves. The basic divisions in this fine book are
breakfast sandwiches (eight of them), cool sandwiches (19), warm
sandwiches (25), and sweet sandwiches (6, which can also double for
breakfast). Each sandwich has a photo, once in the contents listing
with a page reference, and once with the recipe. There's a US resources
list, and avoirdupois ingredient listings (no table of equivalents is
furnished). Try chopped chickpeas with roasted peppers, pan-fried
eggplant with mozzarella and white anchovies, flatiron steak with
cucumber and ginger salad, cheddar with smoked ham and poached pear,
fried squid po-boy, cured duck breast with caramelized apples. All are
scrumptious. Quality/price rating: 89.

17. THE FLAVORS OF ASIA (DK, 2009, 272 pages, ISBN 978-0-7566-4305-8,
$35 US hard covers) has been pulled together by Mai Pham, the
chef/owner of Lemon Grass Restaurant, plus a grill and noodle bar --
all in Sacramento. She has done extensive work for the Culinary
Institute of America, who is also the major sponsor of this book. Log
rollers include Thomas Keller and the team of Naomi Duguid and Jeffrey
Alford. This book culls recipes from 40 chefs of India, Asia, and the
US. Pham joins the CIA in presenting 125 accessible recipes. This is
the second book in the DK series covering the CIA's "World of Flavor
International Conference and Festival". These are top ten type dishes
from each country, and while there is little room to explore the myriad
flavours of each cuisine, there is room to be creative within a limited
range, and concentrate on just a few but basic dishes. Arrangement is
by course, with a range of countries represented in each. Appetizers
and small plates leads to soups and salads, followed by veggies, meats,
seafood, noodle and rice dishes, and the vast range of sauces needed.
There is a glossary, bios of the chefs involved, and a US sources list.
So from India, we get a faluda drink and rice pudding, Vietnam has
ginger-peanut ice cream and warm banana with tapioca pearls, Japan has
a buckwheat noodle roll and yakitori of duck and young chicken,
Thailand has stir-fried chicken with basil and spinach wraps with
coconut and ginger. The vernacular terms are also used, and the weights
are in avoirdupois. There are no tables of metric equivalents. Still,
the photography is sharp (there is a picture for each prep) and the
material is bountiful, especially for beginners and/or armchair
travelers/cooks. Quality/Price rating: 85.

18. GALE GAND'S BRUNCH! (Clarkson Potter, 2009, 208 pages, ISBN 978-0-
307-40698-9, $27.50 hard covers) contains about 100 preps. Gand is a
Beard award winner, co-owner of Tru in Chicago, a consulting pastry
chef, and host of the US Food Network's "Sweet Dreams", a daily show
devoted to baking. She's also authored six other cookbooks. Christie
Matheson, a food and lifestyle writer, is the focusing coauthor.
Traditional dishes are given a contemporary spin, such as an almond
ciabatta French toast. She has five "lessons" for eggs, each
concentrating on one of omelets, quiches, strata, frittata, and crepes
all with variations. There's plenty here for the adventurous to roam
around with. The book, arranged by food type, concludes with a section
on condiments, including her own version of Nutella spread. There's
some material on equipment and ingredients. Menus are given for events
such as a bridal shower, a summer weekend, a going away party, the
traditional Champagne brunch, the baby shower, Mother's day ten in
all, and all with page references. But avoirdupois-only measurements,
with no metric tables of conversion. Try breakfast burritos (bean
free), pineapple noodle kugel, spiced apple-raisin turnovers, corn and
parmesan fritters, cheddar grits, or wheat berry salad. Quality/price
rating: 85.

19. RELAXED COOKING WITH CURTIS STONE (Clarkson Potter, 2009, 272
pages, ISBN 978-0-307-40874-7 $32.50 hard covers) deals with the
national fantasy of easy cooking. Stone is the host of The Learning
Channel's "Take Home Chef", now in its third season. It is TLC's only
cooking show. The premise of the show is that he will cook for you, and
show you how to do it. So he picks one grocery shopper each week, and
shows how her (and the TV audience) to shop and cook with ease. He's
experienced: head chef, trained under Marco Pierre White, voted one of
People magazine's sexiest men alive. The book covers just about every
occasion, such as breakfast, brunch, weekend lunches, snacks, dinners,
crowd-pleasers, side dishes and sweets. The recipes are readable, set
in larger type, but I cannot stand the white- on-beige text (I also
don't like the too-many pix of Stone the Hunk). There are avoirdupois-
only measurements, with no metric tables of conversion, which is common
in US cookbooks. Try green tea ice cream, asparagus with raspberry-
shallot vinaigrette, chili crab, Brazilian-style chicken with okra,
roasted fennel and potato soup, shrimp salad with fennel and blood
orange. Nothing here is too demanding, but he tries well. Quality/price
rating: 86.

20. BURGER BAR; build your own ultimate burgers (John Wiley & Sons,
2009, 168 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-18767-8, $22.95 US hard covers) is by
Hubert Keller, chef and owner of Burger Bar in diverse hotels in Las
Vegas, St. Louis, and San Francisco. He also owns upscale restos in
those same cities. He was named a Beard Chef: California. Here, he is
assisted by Penelope Wisner, a freelance writer and recipe developer.
Log rolling features Alain Ducasse. Keller uses upscale ingredients and
flavourings, so the final product is not necessarily cheap.it is just
"cheaper" than the usual upscale resto dishes because of the modest
platform. Here are 50 creations, with tips on prepping, presentation
and "Build Your Own" techniques. It is not all beef: there are chapters
dealing with other meats (bison, pork, etc.), poultry, seafood, and
veggies. Keller finishes off with material on side dishes, sauces,
"sweet burgers" (chocolate-hazelnut, s'more, cheese cake burger) and
even mixed alcohol beverages. Overall, it will be sliders that will win
out. Quality/price rating: 88.

21. DINOSAUR BAR-B-QUE; an American roadhouse (Ten Speed Press, 2001,
2009. 184 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-971-5, $19.95 US paper covers) is the
paperback reissue of the 2001 book. Despite an additional copyright
date of 2009, there appears to be minimal updating beyond the addresses
and URLs in the Resources area. No new pix were taken. John Stage and
Nancy Radke are the authors. The Dino BBQ in Syracuse is an icon; I've
eaten there many times and have also done take out. I assume the
Rochester and Harlem NYC locations are similar. It all began in 1988,
and this book celebrates the resto's 20th anniversary. The 100 recipes
here cover the entire menu; there are also lots of references to blues
music, which goes hand in hand with ribs. The rationale for their being
is on page 93: Dinosaur-style ribs. It calls for a St. Louis cut of
spareribs, red rub, mop sauce, and mutha sauce. Look it up. Beef, pork,
chicken, fish, and lamb are the meats. Sides are here, as well as soups
and "leftovers" and desserts. There is material on how to do your own
smoking and pit work, as well as how and what to maintain in the pantry
staples. The publishers claim that the hard cover has sold more than
120,000 copies. For the BBQ lover. Quality/price rating: 90.

22. GOLDEN DOOR COOKS AT HOME (Clarkson Potter, 2009, 288 pages, ISBN
978-0-307-45079, $40 US hard covers) is by Dean Rucker, executive chef
of the Golden Door since 2005. Marah Stets is the focusing food writer.
These are supposed to be favourite recipes from that celebrated spa,
which is synonymous with healthy eating and cuisine. It's a California
spa, with branches in Florida, Colorado, Arizona, and Puerto Rico. This
is their 50th year of operation, and the book celebrates with 100
recipes and the overblown photography. I think that the book is really
meant for previous clients to cook at home: lean proteins, whole
grains, fresh veggies, and the like. Courses run from appetizers
through to desserts, with breakfasts, teas and drinks, and some sauces.
Nutritional data has been provided per serving, but at the back, not
with the recipe itself. The only rationale for this is that the
publisher or authors did not want people to actually use the book as a
collection of weight control recipes. Try marinated vegetable focaccia
sandwich, vegetable pizzetta, quinoa tabbouleh, Moroccan spice-rubbed
lamb loin, or miso-glazed mero. Quality/price rating: 86.

23. FAMILY-STYLE MEALS AT THE HALI'IMAILE GENERAL STORE (Ten Speed
Press, 2009, 236 pages, ISBN 978-1-58008-951-7, $35 US hard covers) is
by Beverly Gannon, chef-owner of the resto, now celebrating its 20th
year in business. She's also a founder of Hawaii Regional Cuisine
movement, executive chef of Hawaiian Airlines, and owns another
restaurant on Maui. The focusing food writer is Joan Namkoong, who
lives in Kamuela and has written many books about Hawaiian foods. The
family-style meals here emphasize a fusion with Pacific-Asian-Southern
US accents. This recipe collection comes from the restaurant's files,
and has been simplified to reflect family or large gatherings.
Ingredient substitutions are included, and leftovers are adapted into
future meals. Preps are presented by the days of the week. In between
it all there are anecdotes of life in Hawaii and gorgeous (but
touristy) photography. There is the inevitable logrolling (even from
Dean Fearing, who has not been heard from in quite awhile). Try mango-
chile dipping sauce, dried-fried long beans with cumin and chile, Cajun
blackened 'ahi, Asian fried calamari, hoisin-marinated short ribs and
wasabi mashed potatoes, kona coffee-marinated rack of lamb, corn and
edamame and jicama slaw. Quality/price rating: 85.

24. REAL CAJUN; rustic home cooking from Donald Link's Louisiana
(Clarkson Potter, 2009, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-39581-8, $35 US hard
covers) is by Link who is chef-owner of Herbsaint and Cochon
restaurants in New Orleans. He's also a Beard winner. As is typical of
many of these celebrity chef books, here is a focusing food writer
(Paula Disbrowe) and some logrolling (Alice Waters, Anthony Bourdain).
In addition to the preps, there are anecdotes covering fishing,
shrimping, sausage-making, festivals, funerals, holidays, fish fries,
crawfish boils, and seafood gumbo. He gives us updated versions of
iconic recipes such as crawfish boudin, turtle soup, bread pudding. And
there is a small resources list for such items as sausage-making
supplies, andouille and boudin. Try pork belly cracklings, Cajun tasso,
crawfish boudin, andouille gumbo, meat pie, and maque choux with fried
green tomatoes. Worthwhile photography, but ultimately too many
touristy or cutesy photos. Quality/price rating: 84.

25. PAULA DEEN'S: the Deen family cookbook (Simon & Schuster, 2009, 269
pages, ISBN 978-0-7432-7813-5, $26 US hard covers) is by Paula Deen,
who has been spinning off Southern food recipes for quite some time.
She's also a major Food Network host. Here she takes her shots at a
family cookbook. Certainly, the American book publishing community has
found the luster in an economic downturn: creating family cookbooks.
Every publisher must have a dozen or so they are everywhere in
catalogues and passing through my hands as well. Here are 140 recipes,
mostly new, for family gatherings. Her own family, based on the back
cover, seems to number 14. Plus three dogs. Melissa Clark, a cookbook
author, is the focusing food writer. There's nothing fancy here, just
preps and pix of her family. Try stuffed eggs with smoked salmon,
Italian pasta salad, bacon vinaigrette over greens, guacamole,
buttermilk biscuit, zucchini bake, and the like. Each prep is some
family member's version Jodi's cream cheese dip, Aunt Trina's shrimp
boulettes, Michelle's pimento cheese sandwiches. Quality/price rating:
80.

26. EAT CHEAP BUT EAT WELL (John Wiley & Sons, 2009, 207 pages, ISBN
978-0-470-29336-2, $18.95 US paper covers) is by Charles Mattocks, who
appears regularly on US television as "The Poor Chef", specializing in
cheap food. He demonstrates cheap but healthy meals for two, costing
around $7 (or less). His book has 120 recipes, basic food but with
international cuisine flavourings. This also makes them delicious. As
for healthy foods, you do need balance. Too much pasta, no mater how
ell you cook it and flavour it, is unwise. It must be mixed, put in
rotation, or at least NOT made into a main course every single night.
His book is arranged by product, beginning with poultry, moving through
beef, pork, other meats, pasta, fish, seafood, eggs, salads, veggies,
soups, sandwiches, and desserts. He uses the cent sign (try finding
that on a computer keyboard) to indicate a cost of under $5 for 4
servings. But most dishes are under $7 for two or four servings. Try
West Indian chicken curry, chicken Waikiki, sauerbraten-burgers,
moussaka, ham with corn pudding, beef in beer, pork and apple pie with
potato crust. Quality/price rating: 88.

27. ANNAPOLIS VALLEY TASTES; recipes from the valley's best restaurants
(Nimbus Publishing, 2009, 82 pages, ISBN 978-1-55109-703-9, $22.95
Canadian, soft covers) has been collated by Sean Buckland, a co-founder
of Valley Wine Tours and a former sommelier. Photography is by Colleen
Dagnall and Bob Federer. More than half the pictures concern touristy
stuff in the Annapolis Valley, but there are sharp food photos too. The
book's drawing points are the 29 recipes from sterling restaurants in
the area, plus the obvious tourist attractions in the valley. Here is a
combination of fin, fowl, and farmstock, plus all the fruits and
veggies. Along with the food comes wine and fine restaurants. There's
no index to the preps, but there is a table of contents divided into
four: soups and starters, mains from the land, mains from the sea, and
desserts. Restaurants are listed in a directory (but with no addresses
nor phone numbers) and recipes are sourced there. So from Tempest we
get crusted lamb racks with celery root puree, from Port Pub there is a
very good porter cheddar soup, Halls Harbour Lobster Pound offers a
basic lobster bisque, while Blomidon Inn has mussels with double-smoked
bacon and vermouth. Measurements are all avoirdupois, with no metric
conversion tables. Quality/price rating: 87.

28. BLUE WATER CAFÉ SEAFOOD COOKBOOK (Douglas & McIntyre, 2009, 202
pages, ISBN 978-1-55365-368-4, $45 Canadian, hard covers) is by Frank
Pabst, the executive chef at the Vancouver restaurant since 2003. In
fact, the copyright is held by the restaurant's owner, Top Table
Restaurants & Bars. Recipes are by Frank Pabst and Yoshi Tabo (who has
been chef at the Raw Bar since 2002), wine pairings are by Andrea
Vescovi, and "text" is by Jim Tobler. The largely French-inspired food
from Pabst and the Japanese-inspired raw bar from Tabo are all based
also on "sustainability" principles. Thus, the 80 recipes here all
concern seafood that will not be diminished. If you can get it, try
periwinkles with nettle puree and potato chips. No metric conversion
charts, though. 120 photos illuminate the likes of grilled mackerel
with chunky Romesco sauce, terrine of sardines with heirloom tomatoes
and zucchini, sea urchins (done several ways), and squid and octopus
(also done several ways). The raw bar section is amazing. Not a book
for everyone just for those explorative seafood lovers. Quality/price
rating: 90.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

TASTING NOTES: LCBO Vintages Releases July 4, 2009

2009-07-02T09:25:00.003-04:00

WORLD WINE WATCH (VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JULY 4, 2009
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing <deantudor@deantudor.com>
Always at www.deantudor.com since 1995. Also visit my "Wines, Beers and
Spirits of the Net Compendium", a guide to thousands of news items and
RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits.
My tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are
QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated
wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the
release for wine writers or product consultants. Also, some defective
or corked wines are not available for re-tasting.

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Niagara College Teaching Winery Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2006
Donald J.P. Ziraldo Vineyard VQA St. David's Bench Niagara: creamy
butterscotch dominates, one for the woodies among us. +40634, $18.95,
QPR: 92.
2. Clay Station Viognier 2007 Lodi: very good balance, more a food wine
than a sipper, longer length with crispness. +25411, $17.95, QPR: 90.
3. Clos du Bois Sauvignon Blanc 2008 North Coast: longer finish, best
with food, refreshing and typical MVC for California Sauvignon Blanc. A
restaurant wine. +146258, $16.95, QPR: 90.
4. Ravenswood Vintners Blend Chardonnay 2007 California: another decent
restaurant wine exhibiting a juicy blend of fruit. +683847, $16.95,
QPR: 90.
5. Sileni Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Marlborough: a straight
ahead, MVC typical sauvignon from New Zealand. +662882, $16.95, QPR:
90.
6. Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Gris 2007 New Zealand East Coast: good
defining body, slightly grey-pink colour tones, lovely fruity MVC pear
aromas. +727255, $18.95, QPR: 90.
7. Beauvignac Viognier 2008 Pays d'Oc: classic summery viognier, useful
for doing food or sipping, south of France style. +525295, $14.95, QPR:
90.
8. Grandes Serres Les Portes du Castelas Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2007: a
nifty blend of Rousanne, Marsanne, viognier, et al at a fab price. Just
peachy. +103697, $14.95, QPR: 90.

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Emiliana Organico Natura Carmenere 2008 Colchagua: fabulous textures
and mouthfeel, lots of mocha tones. +56887, $15.95, QPR: 90
2. Chateau de la Tuilerie Syrah/Grenache 2007 Costieres de Nimes: some
accessible syrah hits here, another winner from the south of France.
+126128, $15.95, QPR: 90.
3. Villa Giada Suri Rosso Barbera d'Asti 2007: affordable good quality,
long lip smacking finish. +117168, $14.95, QPR: 90.
4. Allegrini Corte Giara Ripasso Valpolicella 2007: juicy fruit, a wine
to suckle. +83964, $17.95, QPR: 90.
5. Torres Celeste Crianza 2005 Ribera del Duero: North American style,
fruit jumps right out at you and onto the BBQ grill. +672691, $19.95,
QPR: 90.
6. Ontanon Crianza 2005 Rioja: traditional style, 13% ABV, best with
food, but not in summer. +976910, $16.95, QPR: 90.
7. Pares Balta Mas Petit Garnatxa/Cabernet 2006 Penedes: 14.5% ABV,
good blend shows, fruity, organic wine. +114264, $14.95, QPR: 90.

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are ready to enjoy right now. Consumers
could buy and bring to those restaurants with corkage programs.
1. Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2006 Monterey/Santa
Barbara, +59576, $29.95 retail.
2. Robert Mondavi Fume Blanc 2007 Napa, +221887, $22.95 retail.
3. La Chablisienne Vaulorent Chablis Premier Cru 2006, +111666, $38.95.
4. Z-52 Agnes' Vineyard Old Vines Zinfandel 2005 Lodi, +104174, $28.95.
5. Cooper Mountain 20th Anniversary Reserve Pinot Noir 2007 Willamette
Oregon Organic, +127308, $37.95.
6. Chateau Cabannieux 2001 Graves, +125849, $29.95.
7. Le Tobele Amarone della Valpolicella 2005, +106898, $49.95.
8. Fortius Gran Reserva 1999 Navarra, +114363, $23.95.
9. Querciabella Chianti Classico 2006, +728816, $34.95.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

TASTING: Canada Day BBQ and Porker Numbers

2009-07-02T09:25:00.001-04:00

The Time and Date: Wednesday, July 1, 2009, 4PM 8 PM

The Event: evaluating BBQ VQA wines with pork ribs, and establishing Porker numbers. Best to do on Canada Day.

The Venue: Gothic Epicures World Corporate HQ

The Target Audience: Michael Pinkus and myself, Dean Tudor.

The Availability/Catalogue: all Ontario wines were available from the winery.

The Quote/Background: we were attempting to set up a series of numbers, based on Robert Parker, that would relate to how a wine matched up with pork. They are to be known as Porker numbers, and could be expressed in oinks.

The Wines: each wine was cross-referenced with some BBQ pork.

**** Four Oinks (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Alvento Sondra Merlot Cabernet Franc 2006, 12.5%: a 90/10 blend with a great finish, 18 months in French barrels.

-Stoney Ridge Baco Noir Reserve 2007, 11.7%: perfect BBQ wine.

***1/2 Three and a Half Oinks (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Cave Spring Pinot Noir 2007, 12.5%: better Euro nose, classic style.

-EastDell Pinot Noir 2007, 12.5% ABV: a bit tart in the finish, better with food.

-Reif Estate Pinot Noir 2007, 12%: woody, some softness and berries, best quaffer.

-Strewn Terroir 2007 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay Amalgam 2007, 13.6%: oaky with French and US barrels, fullish.

-Strewn Terroir Strewn Vineyard French Oak Chardonnay 2007, 14.6%: burning finish, but otherwise OK with BBQ.

*** Three Oinks (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Hillier Pinot Noir 2004 Closson Road, not VQA but Ontario, 12.5% ABV: light in style

-Dan Aykroyd Pinot Noir 2007, $12% ABV: good MVC, basic

-Alvento Emilie Cabernet Franc Merlot 2006, 12.5%: perhaps a 90/10 blend? Sondra was definitely better.

-Pillitteri Chardonnay Sur Lie 2007, 12.5%: much fruit, no wood, suffered from BBQ flavours.

The Food: I made some BBQ baby back ribs AND some BBQ side ribs. Taste wise, I think the sides won, although Pinkus decided that he preferred backs. We also referenced a Rosenblum Zinfandel 2005 and a TerraPater Zinfandel Shiraz 2001 from Chile. Ontario won.

The Downside: not enough wine, and not enough porkjust kidding.

The Upside: a good chance to get serious about a variety of wines.

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 100.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

TRADE TASTING: Sip and Savour Ontario Wines, June 16, 2009

2009-06-30T16:35:00.001-04:00

The Time and Date: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 2 PM to 4:30 PM

The Event: Sip & Savour Ontario, celebrating Ontario wine week.

The Venue: Fermenting Cellar, Distillery District.

The Target Audience: wine trade in the afternoon, consumers at night.

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available through the winery, but very few from the LCBO. Surprisingly, there was a Vintages table pouring some wines.

The Quote/Background: There were different wines poured at night. The showcase in the afternoon was toward wines being marketed to restaurants.

The Wines: Because of check-in delays and a prompt closing time, I was unable to taste all of the red wines that I wanted to. My apologies to some of the wineries affected, especially since I told them that I would be back AFTER I had finished with the white wines.

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Calamus Estate White 2007 (C-PG-Ge), $17

-Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Musque Estate Bottled 2007, $16.95

-Creekside Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

-Fielding Estate Viognier 2007, $30

-Hidden Bench Estate Chardonnay 2006, $30

-Hidden Bench Estate Riesling 2007, $26

-Konzelmann Estate Gewurztraminer 2007, $17

-Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Chardonnay 2006, +36806, $40

-Legends Sauvignon Blanc 2007, $15.50

-Ravine Vineyard Estate Merlot Reserve 2007, $55

-Ravine Vineyard Estate Chardonnay Reserve 2007, $38

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Peninsula Ridge Estates Viognier 2007, +662601, $14.95 Vintages

-Alvento Winery Elige 2004 (CS-SF-M), $20

-Alvento Sondra 2006, $30 (M-CF)

-Calamus Estate Pinot Gris 2008

-Cattail Creek Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2007, $19

-Chateau des Charmes Sauvignon Gris Estate Bottled 2007, $19.95

-Coyote's Run Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Gris 2007

-Coyote's Run Black Paw Vineyard Chardonnay 2007

-Flat Rock Twisted 2008, +1578, $16.95

-Flat Rock The Rusty Shed Chardonnay 2006, +1552, $24.95

-Hidden Bench Terroir Cache Red Meritage 2006, $35

-Jackson-Triggs Proprietors Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2008, +618413, $13.95.

-Kacaba Vineyards Riesling Reserve 2008, $17.95

-Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Chardonnay 2006, +33936, $30

-Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2006, +33894, $30

-Mike Weir Chardonnay 2007, +26, $15.95

-Palantine Hills Estate Riesling Traminer 2007, +58602, $13.95

-Palantine Hills Estate Gewurztraminer Proprietor's Reserve 2008, $13.95

-Ravine Vineyard Estate Cabernet Franc 2006, $34

-Riverview Cellars Gewurztraminer 2008, $16.95

-Southbrook Vineyards Triomphe Chardonnay 2006, $21.95

-Stonechurch Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $19.95

-Strewn Chardonnay Barrel Aged 2007, $12.95

-Wayne Gretzky Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2007, $18.95

*** Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Malivoire Chardonnay Musque 2008, +129759, $11.95 half-bottle Vintages

-Alvento Vio Viognier 2007, $35

-Creekside Reserve Merlot Butler's Grant 2005

-Creekside Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2006, +53371, $18.95

-Fielding Estate Riesling 2008, $16

-Flat Rock Pinot Noir 2007, +1545, $19.95

-Hidden Bench Estate Pinot Noir 2007, $45

-Jackson-Triggs Delaine Vineyard Gewurztraminer 2007, $22.80

-Konzelmann Estate Merlot Barrel Aged 2007, $30

-Lailey Niagara River Chardonnay 2006

-Legends Cabernet Merlot Reserve 2002, $22

-Pillitteri Estates Sauvignon Blanc 2007, $18

-Riverview Cellars Angelina's Reserve Chardonnay 2007, $31.95

-Rosewood Estates Gewurztraminer 2008, $18

-Southbrook Vineyards Triomphe Sauvignon Blanc 2007, $18.95

-Strewn Riesling Semi-Dry 2008, $11.95

-Wayne Gretzky Estate Riesling 2007, $17.95

The Food: four artisanal breads from Stonemill, and three Ontario cheeses from Dairy Farmers of Canada (but why Ontario gouda? Ontario asiago? But the Upper Canada Cheese Co.'s Comfort Cream was phenomenal)

The Downside: we were late in getting started because the seminar ran over. Eventually, they let us in while the seminar was wrapping up, but we also had delays with the check-in procedure. We were asked to leave on time, but we should have been allowed to stay on, to make up for the lost time. At any rate, I was not able to taste all the wines that I wanted to taste.

The Upside: our once a year tasting of VQA wines, the frequency of which is shameful.

The Contact Person: sandy@forefrontcom.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 85.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

LUNCHEON TASTING: MADEIRA wines in Toronto, June 10, 2009

2009-06-28T13:57:00.001-04:00

The Time and Date: Wednesday, June 10, 2009 11:30 AM 5:30 PM

The Event: Madeira Wine luncheon and tasting, sponsored by IVBAM from Madeira, the European Union and the Portuguese Trade and Tourism Commission.

The Venue: Jacobs & Co. steak house, King St West

The Target Audience: wine writers and sommeliers, restaurateurs.

The Availability/Catalogue: most of the Madeira in the tasting were for show, with the possibility of some orders for the future. Prices were not always known.

The Quote/Background: Five wineries were included the Madeira Wine Company, Henriques & Henriques, Vinhos Justinos Henriques, Vinho Barbeito, and Pereira d'Oliveira. Together they market well over a dozen different labels, and many more styles (Ten Year Old, 5 Year Old, Rich, Old, Colheita), plus the various names of the grapes of sercial, bual, verdelho, terrantez, malmsey or malvasia AND the many labels such as Cossart Gordon, Blandy's, Leacock's, and Miles.

The Wines: I did not try all the wines.

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Henriques & Henriques 10 YO Sercial (Cavima Ent.)

-Henriques & Henriques 15 YO Sercial (Cavima Ent.)

-Henriques & Henriques 15 YO Verdelho (Cavima Ent.)

-Justino Broadbent Bual 1978 (RKW Wine Imports)

-Justino Colheita 1996 (RKW Wine Imports)

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Cossart Gordon 5 YO Sercial

-Leacock's 5 YO Sercial

-Blandy's 10 YO Verdelho

-Pereira d'Oliveira Harvest Bual 1980

-Pereira d'Oliveira Harvest Malvazia 1990

-Pereira d'Oliveira 15 YO Sweet

-Justino Boal 10 YR (RKW Wine Imports)

-Justino Sercial 10 YO, $40 (RKW Wine Imports)

*** Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Cossart Gordon 5 YO Bual

-Justino Old Reserve Fine Dry 10 YO, $35 RKW Wine Imports

The Food: For the lunch, the only downer was the consommé. Only "double consommé" can stand up to Madeira, and we just had regular consommé. Maybe next time. Meanwhile, I added some Madeira to my soup, and it picked up. The hors d'oeuvre comprised salt cod fritters, red pepper and goat cheese on broche, steak tartar, lobster rice paper spring rolls (where was my lobster? I couldn't find it) all served against Henriques & Henriques 10 yr Sercial. The second course had some of dry-aged beef that Jacobs and Co does (USDA prime roasted tenderloin, Oakleigh Ranch wagyu striploin, and Alberta wagyu bavette). I liked the bavette the best. Unfortunately, there was only ONE Madeira to try with three styles of beef. I cross-sampled with what I already had (10 year sercial, 10 year verdelho, 15 year verdelho). Next up[ came a cheese course, with two unidentified cheeses, both quite good with the 5 yr bual and the 10 year bual. Dessert was rich chocolate three ways, with Justino's Colheita 1996 and Justino's Broadbent Bual 1978, both superb

With the stand alone tasting, there were skewers of meat and about a dozen different Portuguese cheeses. Unfortunately, there were no labels to explain what these cheeses were. I could read some incomplete packaging, but of course, they were all in Portuguese. The cheeses tasted pretty good, even better with the Madeira. Buals were the best choices for cheese. The Downside: the luncheon was very crowded, and service was consequently slow. Also, I had to request a spit bucket: there was no way I was going to swallow different fortified wines after tasting. There were 7 wines to sample with the food.

The Upside: great food matches.

The Contact Person: William.delgado@portugalglobal.pt

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

2009-06-26T17:02:00.001-04:00

THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent "re-editions"...

16. PLATTER'S SOUTH AFRICAN WINES 2009; the guide to cellars,
vineyards, winemakers, restaurants and accommodation (The John Platter
SA Wine Guide Ltd; distr. by Wines of South Africa Canadian Office,
keenan@propellerpr.com, 416-461-6016, 567 pages, ISBN 978-0-95-845067-
6, $30CAD (includes shipping) hard cover) is the recognized authority
on South African wines. It has been published for 29 years. For this
latest edition, there are now 17 tasters all identified, and with
initials after tasting notes. Some of the tasters have changed over the
years. Some 6000 wines are here evaluated (800 are new to this
edition), along with new wineries. One-quarter of all top ranking 5
star wines are now being made by mom-and-pop operations, a remarkable
achievement. Even the large co-ops are making more credible, limited
collections of superior wine. The contents of the guide are
straightforward: there are chapters on the wine industry, vintages and
styles, touring (accommodation and food, all in some 75 pages) followed
by some 400 pages of dictionary-arranged wineries, detailing most
aspects. To quote, "Wines are entered under the name of the private
producer, estate, co-operative winery or brand name of a merchant, and
listed alphabetically. Entries feature some or all of: producer's name,
address, phone/fax number, email address, website; wine name, colour
and style, grape varieties, vintage, area of origin; selected recent
awards and star ratings. Where applicable, other attractions to be
enjoyed on the property, such as meals and accommodation, are
highlighted." The book also has an indication of organic wines
available for sale and sketch maps to show the location of all the
wineries. The index at the front is by grape, so you can see at a
glance what is the top performing pinotage, or cabernet sauvignon, or
sparkler. Quality/Price Rating: 95.

17. RIVER CAFÉ COOK BOOK EASY (Ebury Press, 2003, 2008, 269 pages, ISBN
978-0-091925321, $39.95 Canadian soft covers) is by Rose Gray and Ruth
Rogers, the two owner-chefs of the River Café in London. They founded
it in 1987. They have had previously successful cookbooks, and a TV
show. This book is a straight reprint of the 2003 issue. God forbid
that we need another "easy Italian" cookbookwhat's different here?
Well, the photos are very good and the large print is terrific. The
"easy" part is explained by the premise that the food should be easy to
shop for, and you can get it all on the table within an hour or two.
The 200 recipes here rely on a well-stocked pantry (checklist is
included here) plus fresh seasonal ingredients. The bruschetta section
has 24 preps (all photographed) plus 15 antipasti. Soup, pasta,
risotto, seafood, meats, potatoes, and verdure are completed by lots of
desserts. The source list and the measurements are all UK. Try chicken
with nutmeg, fig arugula bruschetta, Sardinian bottarga, or gnudi
bianchi. Most, but not all, of the photos are
for final plating. Quality/Price rating: 83.

18. SANTA FE SCHOOL OF COOKING; flavors of the Southwest (Gibbs Smith,
2006, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-4236-0470-9
$24.99 soft covers) is by founder Susan Curtis. The School has been
operating since 1989. Her co-author is the school manager, Nicole
Curtis Ammerman. The 2006 book was originally titled "SOUTHWEST
FLAVORS; Santa Fe School of Cooking", but this time out, they retitled
it. Otherwise, it is the same book. The emphasis is on lighter foods
100 preps in all. Her typical classes are described: she covers
Mexican, Spanish, Native American, New Mexican, and Southwestern US
cuisine. Many of the preps come from some of the area's notable chefs,
such as James Caruso of El Farol and Eddie Lyons of the Pink Adobe and
Galisteo Inn. The theme and foundation, of course, is the chile. There
are glossary notes on equipment and larders, a bibliography for further
reading, and a directory of US sources for food ingredients. Only US
weights and measures are given without any metric conversion charts.
For more details, go to www.santafeschoolofcooking.com.
Try blue corn tamales with calabacitas filling, sunset soup with red
pepper (black bean soup and sweet corn bisque), nopales and golden beet
salad, or tumbleweed of sweet potato. Large typeface, but the deficient
index has not changed. Quality/Price rating: 83.

19. MOUTH WIDE OPEN; a cook and his appetite (North Point Press, 2008;
distr. Douglas & McIntyre, 410 pages, ISBN 978-0-374-53143-0 $16.50
Canadian soft covers) is by John Thorne, well-known culinary writer
living in Massachusetts. He is assisted by his wife Matt Lewis Thorne.
This is his sixth book, and like all of them, is derived from his
newsletter "Simple Cooking" with some autobiographical and memoirish
pieces. "Pot on the Fire", one of his earlier books, won a James Beard
Book Award. He picks his food choices carefully. Here he details
pistachios, falafel, Scottish marmalade, bagna caoda, salted anchovies,
improvised breakfasts, minestrone, and midnight snacks. He has prepared
us for many scenes along his food journeys. His writing style is
impeccable and iconoclastic; he delights in everything he thinks is
good. And wants us to think of them as good too. He says he does not
follow recipes, but rather he interacts with them. Here he gives us
about 125 preps, all listed at the front and indexed at the back. There
is a bibliography of his favorite food and cookbooks. And the index is
stunning in its detail you can find his thoughts on a wide variety of
food matters in an instant. This is literary food writing at its
finest. Please read it in small doses, just before nodding off at
night. Quality/Price rating: 94.

20. CRÈME BRULEE (Chronicle Books, 2005, 2009; distr. Raincoast, 96
pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6682-8, $14.95 US hard covers) is by Lou Seibert
Pappas, who has written several dozen cookbooks for Chronicle Books.
This book was originally published in 2005; here, it is simply
reissued. It is a collection of some 50 different varieties, beginning
with the classic vanilla bean crème brulee and moving through similar
creations such as mango crème brulee, cherry risotto crème brulee,
toffee crème brulee, and some savoury: mushroom and goat cheese crème
brulee, gorgonzola and leek crème brulee, sun-dried tomato and olive
crème brulee, and roasted onion and gruyere crème brulee. As with any
single food cookbook, you've got to like the end creation a lot. There
are photos of some of the final platings, plus the usual primer advice
on how to make crème brulee and spin off the variations. There is a
table of equivalents for the avoirdupois measurements. If this is your
bag, then at this price level this is your book. Quality/Price
rating: 85.

21. THE UNTOLD STORY OF THE POTATO (Vintage Books, 2009, 315 pages,
ISBN 978-0-099-47479-1, $23.95 Canadian soft covers) is by John Reader,
an author who has specialized in popular anthropological studies. Here
he tackles the ubiquitous potato. The book was originally published in
the UK by William Heinemann, under the title "Propitious Esculent"
(which means "benevolent edible"). It seems to have had rave reviews
from everywhere in the UK. It is a scholarly book, with endnotes, a
sterling bibliography of books and articles and websites, a good index,
and some black and white plates of photos and archival drawings. The
story begins in South America of course (pre-Incas, 8000 years ago),
and moves to Europe (Spanish Conquest spoils, Irish famine). Reader
looks at it all via human ecology (the extent to which culture and
social systems are influenced by environment and food production
systems). Readable. Quality/Price rating: 89.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

OPENING: Event space at Thompson Landry/A Taste of Quebec in Distillery District, June 25, 2009

2009-06-26T11:14:00.001-04:00

The Time and Date: Thursday, June 25, 2009 6Pm to 9PM

The Event: A Taste of Quebec/Thompson Landry Gallery Cooperage Space Grand Opening of New Venue

The Venue: Cooperage Space, Building 32, Distillery District.

The Target Audience: private clients, selected media

The Quote/Background: The 3,000 square foot art gallery showcases Quebec artists and sculptors. The emphasis tonight was as its alternate function, an event space for up to 200 people, in co-operation with Distillery Restaurant Corp.

The Wines: We had two good beers, Blanche de Chambly and La Fin du Monde (both from Quebec). Wines included the straight forward Red Knot Shiraz 2007 McLaren Vale ($19 Lifford) and the mature Francis Ford Coppola Bianco Pinot Grigio 2006 (2008 is $12 Lifford). Other beverages included Ciderie St. Nicolas Cider and Ciderie St. Nicolas Ice Cider, plus Pinnacle Ice Cider 2006 (a bit sweeter than the St. Nicolas).

The Food: caterers were showing off their signature dishes. 10tation served cremoni mushrooms and braised short ribs; they also did a rich chocolate hazelnut torte with strawbs. Daniel et Daniel had one of the healthiest dishes, with grilled shrimp on a bed of cooked greens and edamame. Presidential Gourmet did a substantial spiced lamb and beef on truffled polenta (with a Pinnacle iced cider as accompaniment). Barbara Murphy was showing off her St. Nicolas with rabbit terrine. Jean-Pierre + Co did a Caribbean cod cake with two habanero sauces (one a hot relish, the other an aioli) followed by a cucumber shooter chaser. Jayne's did a crab salad in a double martini glass. There were also liver mousse cones, cucumber nibbles, and oysters. A Taste of Quebec had both Quebecois foods from their new Chef Pierre of Café du Lac on the Lakeshore, and a coffee bar with real coffee, espresso, etc. A Taste of Quebec specializes in cheese from Quebec, and Tom the fromagier led me through a tasting of Bleu Moutonniere (raw sheep), Miranda (organic raw), Fleur des Monts (raw sheep), Migneron (pasteurized cow), Reserve La Perade (organic raw), Vieux Charlevoix 3 year old cheddar, and Bleu Benedictin. I asked him what went with my espresso; he paused and then got me a slice of Chevre Noir cheddar-style. It went perfectly. Kudos to the cheese section and selection!

The Contact Person: jt@thompsonlandry.com; info@atasteofquebec.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: New Zealand Wine Fair in Toronto, May 21, 2009

2009-06-26T10:33:00.001-04:00

The Time and Date: Thursday, May 21, 2009 1:30 PM to 5:30 PM

The Event: New Zealand Wine Fair in Toronto

The Venue: Design Exchange, Trading Floor

The Target Audience: wine trade

The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are available through agents or the LCBO. The catalogue was its usual splendid self, with full details on the wines and their availability. And as usual, it suffered from last minute price changes, wines that never arrived, substituted wines, and the like. Some, but not all, agents proffered updated order sheets. EVERY AGENT SHOULD BE DOING THIS IF THEY WANT ORDERS assuming that said agents are computer literate.

The Quote/Background: There was a self-pour, self-tour trade seminar on 15 Sauvignon Blanc wines, with a large booklet of details derived from a Powerpoint presentation. A first-rate job, complemented by excellent sandwiches.

The Wines:

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Esk Black Label Sauvignon Blanc 2008, $20.99 (PMA Canada)

-Neudorf Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Nelson 2008, $19.95 (Rubaiyat)

-Omaka Springs Estates Sauvignon Blanc 2008, $21.99 (B & W Wines)

-Seresin Marama Sauvignon Blanc 2007, $39.95 (Dionysus) [woody]

-Kawarau Estate Reserve Chardonnay Central Otago 2007, $29.95 (Living Vine)

-Millton Vineyard Opou Vineyard Chardonnay Gisborne 2007, $24.95 (Living Vine)

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Clos de Ste. Anne Chardonnay Gisborne 2007, $37.95 (Living Vine)

-Clos de Ste. Anne Pinot Noir Gisborne 2007, $37.95 (Living Vine)

-Mt. Difficulty Sauvignon Blanc Central Otago 2008, $25 est. (Small Winemakers)

-Pegasus Bay Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Waipara 2008, $35 (Empson Canada)

-Villa Maria Reserve Wairau Sauvignon Blanc 2008, $29.95 (PMA Canada)

-Paddy Borthwick Chardonnay Wairapara 2007, $21.90 (Conoval)

-Churton Pinot Noir Marlborough 2007, $29.95 Licensee (Merchant Vintner)

-Elephant Hill Sauvignon Blanc Reserve Hawke's Bay 2008, $28.95 (HHD Imports)

-Elephant Hill Syrah Reserve Hawke's Bay 2007, $34.95 (HHD Imports)

-Gibbston Highgate Estate Dreamer Pinot Gris Central Otago 2007, $32 (Amethyst)

-Kim Crawford SP Spitfire Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2008, $24.95 (Vincor)

-Schubert Marion's Vineyard Pinot Noir Wairapara 2007, $39 (Hobbs & Co.)

-Spy Valley Gewurztraminer Marlborough 2008, $19.95 (Kylix)

-Spy Valley Envoy Chardonnay Marlborough 2007, $29.95 (Kylix)

-Staete Landt Chardonnay Marlborough 2007, $38.95 (Lifford)

-Summerhouse Chardonnay Marlborough 2007, $21.95 (Amethyst)

-Te Kairanga Swing Bridge Pinot Gris Gisborne 2008, $20 (Small Winemakers)

-Villa Maria Cellar Selection Syrah Hawke's Bay 2007, $37.95 (PMA Canada)

-Richmond Plains Pinot Noir Nelson 2007, $19.95 (Living Vine)

-Kawarau Estate Reserve Pinot Noir Central Otago 2007, $34.95 (Living Vine)

-Millton Vineyard Te Arai Vineyard Chenin Blanc Gisborne 2007, $24.95 (Living Vine)

-Millton Vineyard Riverpoint Vineyard Viognier Gisborne 2008, $24.95 (Living Vine)

*** Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Clos de Ste. Anne Syrah The Crucible Gisborne 2007, $37.95 (Living Vine)

-Brancott Terroir Series Festival Black Sauvignon Blanc 2008, $27 est. (Corby)

-Churton Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2008, $19.95 Licensee (Merchant Vintner)

-Gibbston Highgate Estate Soultaker Pinot Noir Central Otago 2007, $32 (Amethyst)

-Mount Fishtail Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2008, $17.50 (Vergina)

-Ngatarawa Alwyn Chardonnay Hawke's Bay 2006, $28.95 (Whitehall)

-Nobilo Icon Pinot Noir Central Otago 2006, $25.75 (Churchill Cellars)

-Ra Nui Pinot Noir Marlborough 2007, $29.95 (Churchill Cellars)

-Spy Valley Envoy Pinot Noir Marlborough 2006, $35.95 (Kylix)

-Neudorf Tom's Block Pinot Noir Nelson 2007, $26.95 (Rubaiyat)

-Richmond Plains Sauvignon Blanc Nelson 2008, $15.95 (Living Vine)

The Food: sandwiches at the trade seminar, cheeses and breads and crackers at the show. Water coolers were present for an unending supply.

The Downside: it seemed a little light, and the crowd was different too.

The Upside: the spit buckets were constantly being emptied, as fast as I could spit.

The Contact Person: rketchin@ketchin.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 92.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: Come Walkabout Media lunch, sponsored by Wine Australia, Tourism Australia, and Emirates.

2009-06-25T14:19:00.001-04:00

The Time and Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 12 PM to 3 PM

The Event: Come Walkabout Media lunch, sponsored by Wine Australia, Tourism Australia, and Emirates.

The Venue: Crush Wine Bar, King Street

The Target Audience: media

The Availability/Catalogue: the wines accompanying the lunch were generally thought to be available, although prices were not discussed.

The Quote/Background: Australian Chef Mark Olive and Crush Chef Michael Wilson created a traditional Australian menu. Geoff McFadzean, Canadian Market Development Manager for Wine Australia, provided some wine discussion. Short speeches were proffered by Anita Stewart who had taken gastronomy courses in Australia, and Chef Michael Smith from PEI, who was promoting his Chef Abroad TV series with a segment on Australia.

The Wines and Foods: during the reception we had glasses of DeBortoli Emeri Sparkling Shiraz NV, which was sweetish and useful if you didn't eat the food. A more sensible aperitif was Skillogalee Riesling 2008. Platters of lamb medallions on toasted brioche came along, while the polenta-based layered vegetable slices with macadamia nuts enhanced the Riesling. The starter was oven-roasted wild barramundi with pickled ginger and a mango salsa. D'Arenberg Hermit Crab Viognier/Marsanne 2007, though light, worked well with the off-dry food. Vasse Felix Chardonnay 2007 from Margaret River was the traditional accompaniment. The main was hot-spiced kangaroo loin (tails were not available) with peas, carrots, and sweet potatos. The beverage of choice was Alkoomi Blackbutt 2004, a Bordeaux blend, which ate up the competition (Wakefield Cabernet 2006). Yalumba Museum Muscat NV, a Brown Muscat, was a highlight with the lamingtons (sponge cake, choclate sauce, chantilly cream). Then we adjourned to the bar for some Australian cheeses, such as Roaring Forties blue, Sea Bay Triple Creme, and Stokes Point Apple Cheddar, accompanied by a plum paste and grissini, plus a botrytised Nugan Cookoothama Semillon 2006.

The Downside: well, it's not named Crush for nothing we were wall-to- wall during the reception, with no room to move.

The Upside: a chance to try some yummy food and Oz spices.

The Contact Person: geoff.mcfadzean@wineaustralia.com; msrnie.williamson@austrade.gov.au

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 93.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! * "The Foie Gras Wars

2009-06-25T14:18:00.001-04:00

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *
++++++++++++++++++++++

2. THE FOIE GRAS WARS; how a 5,000-year-old delicacy inspired the
world's fiercest food fight (Simon & Schuster, 2009, 355 pages, ISBN
978-1-4165-5668-8, $35 US hard covers) is by Mark Caro, a Chicago
Tribune reporter whose writing on the foie gras controversy received
honours from the Association of Food Journalists and the James Beard
Foundation. This book is an elaboration of his reporting which began in
2005 with questions directed to Charlie Trotter. Notable log rollers
include Michael Ruhlman and Anthony Bourdain. The fattening of poultry
livers (gavage) through forced feeding is a 5,000 year old history. So
is the slaughter of the bird just for the liver, although today the
whole bird is eaten in some form. Today, it is mostly done with ducks
in France, and mainly ducks in North America. You can get "non-gavaged"
goose livers for a premium, but they won't be as fatty. Foie gras has
more flavour and smooth character, mostly because of the fat. And foie
gras is a niche market anyway. So niche that when Charlie Trotter gave
up cooking foie gras in 2002, barely anybody noticed. Yet he was the
main chef responsible for creating the foie gras craze. He had always
had it on his menu, and would go through over 60 double lobes a week.
After visiting many farms, he then became disgusted by the practice of
gavage and the unsanitary conditions. Now he is outspoken about foie
gras. Caro crafts a good read about how we all ignored what we know
about what we eat. Apparently, it is one thing to have a relationship
with a cow whose name we know, while it is another thing to deal with
mass poultry and fish and other nameless creatures. One rule to make in
order to eat all your food: don't personalize your food source. Using a
wide range of sources such as videos, court documents, personal
interviews with the players involved (chefs, animal activists, farmers,
producers, politicians, and professional eaters), government hearings
and publications, visits to foie gras farms, Caro weaves a compelling
story of the conflicts between those who believe in "names" and those
who don't. He used extensively the Google News Alerts for "foie gras"
and websites.
Audience and level of use: food memoirists, animal lovers, those who
like reading about food and not cooking.
Some interesting or unusual facts: Caro covers picket lines at
restaurants; bans enacted (and sometimes repealed) by cities and
countries; celebrity food follies; besieged duck farms; the French
gastronomic tourism extravaganza labeled "Foie Gras Weekend".
The downside to this book: Roger Ebert contributes "praise" why?
The upside to this book: there is well-developed bibliography of books
and articles, plus a great index. This is a good expose of a nasty
racket.
Quality/Price Rating: 94.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: Lailey Vineyard double header: a tasting of 2007 vintages AND a comparison of syrah aged in oak from three different countries.

2009-06-23T17:05:00.000-04:00

The Time and Date: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 6PM to 9PM

The Event: Lailey Vineyard double header: a tasting of 2007 vintages AND a comparison of syrah aged in oak from three different countries.

The Venue: Faculty Club, University of Toronto

The Target Audience: OWS members and friends, wine press.

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines were available for ordering from the winery.

The Quote/Background: we began with 2008 Vidal, made as a social beverage (slightly off-dry), and 2007 Chardonnay, a creamy wine good for food. All the red wines were tasted blind.

The Wines: I confused the US oak with the French oak (mainly because older, used barrels were employed), but I identified the Canadian oak AND all the other wines (including the mystery wine).

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Lailey Impromptu 2007 [syrah, cabernet sauvignon, Malbec, petit verdot], $45

-Lailey Meritage 2007 [cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot], $30

-Lailey Syrah American Oak 2007, not available for sale.

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Lailey Cabernet Franc 2007, $30

-Lailey Chardonnay 2007, $20

-Lailey Vidal 2008, $14

-Lailey Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, $30

-Lailey Syrah French Oak 2007, $25

-Lailey Syrah 2007 [the blend], $25

*** Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Lailey Pinot Noir 2007, $25

-Lailey Syrah Canadian Oak 2007, $35

The Food: basic appetizers of cheese, fruit, veggies, pate, breads.

The Contact Person: www.ontariowinesociety.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: Discover Australia - a world of difference! Trade show, May 12, 2009

2009-06-22T13:19:00.001-04:00

The Time and Date: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 1 Pm to 5 PM

The Event: Discover Australia a world of difference! Trade show, consumer show in the evening.

The Venue: Grand Banking Hall, The Suites, King Street

The Target Audience: wine trade

The Availability/Catalogue: just about all the wines were represented by an agency. Many of the food and cosmetics, etc. were not.

The Quote/Background: This used to be a speculative wine tasting with food adjuncts. Wineries had been looking for agencies in Ontario. This time around, most of the wines were already repped except for Farmer's Leap. My approach would have been different if I had known that there were wines available for sale in the province. Also, consumers were coming for the first time, in the evening.

The Wines: I tasted a few wines.

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Alkoomi Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, $19.95 (Merchant Vintner)

-Alkoomi Chardonnay 2007, $36.95

-Alkoomi Jarrah-Shiraz 2005, $31.95

-Balnaves Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, $34.95 (Merchant Vintner)

-Giant Steps/Innocent Bystander Pink Moscato 2008, $11.95 half-bottle (Portfolio)

-Giant Steps/Innocent Bystander Shiraz-Viognier 2006, $20.95 (Portfolio)

-Turner's Crossing Shiraz-Viognier 2006, $29.95 (Portfolio)

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Angove Red Belly Black Shiraz 2007, +58669 GL, $16.95

-Geoff Merrill Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon, $14.50 (TWC)

-Geoff Merrill Shiraz Pimpala Road 2005, $14

-Geoff Merrill Premium Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, $24

-Andrew Pirie Sparkling Chardonnay/Pinot Noir, $35 (Ex-Cellars)

-Andrew Pirie Pinot Noir 2007, $39

-Krinklewood Biodynamic Chardonnay 2007, $31.95 (The Living Vine)

-Paxton Vineyards Jones Block McLaren Vale Shiraz 2005, $30.95 (Living Vine)

-Turner's Crossing Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, $29.95 (Portfolio)

*** Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Krinklewood Biodynamic Semillon 2009, $29.95 (The Living Vine)

-Krinklewood Biodynamic Verdelho 2009, $29.95 (The Living Vine)

-Paxton Vineyards Thomas Block Chardonnay 2008, $26.95 (The Living Vine)

-Paxton Vineyards Quandong Farm Shiraz 2007, $26.95

The Food: lots of Oz products, most of which I skipped. I had some kangaroo loin and some lamb, plus Canadian water.

The Downside: I was not properly informed about the content of the show, and this slowed me down.

The Upside: the Buyer's Guide was nicely put together.

The Contact Person: Australian.consulatetoronto@austrade.gov.au

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: Wines from Greece Road Show 2009, May 12, 2009

2009-06-21T18:30:00.001-04:00

The Time and Date: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 11AM to 4 PM

The Event: Wines from Greece Road Show 2009

The Venue: Metropolitan Toronto Hotel

The Target Audience: wine trade and press

The Availability/Catalogue: availability varied. The wine catalogue for the show was nicely laid out, but as usual, there were wines missing or additions not listed, and prices were not given.

The Quote/Background: John Szabo MS and Tara Thomas (Wine & Spirits Magazine) co-led a 10 wine seminar, with input from attending winemakers. The seminar was completely full. Nevertheless, this is the fourth (I think) time that a general introduction was presented. It makes sense to move on to just one region or one grape or one year, for comparisons.

The Wines:

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Skouras Nemea Grande Cuvee 2006, $29.95

-Parparoussis Muscat Rio Patras 2005

-Boutari Reserve Naoussa 2003, $15.95 LCBO

-Dom. Mercouri Cava 2004, $29.95

-Dom. Papagiannakos Vareli 2008 white, $23

-Tsantali Kanenas 2006, $19.90

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Skouras Cuvee Prestige Red 2008, $12.50

-Dom. Spiropoulos Porfyros 2005, $19.95

-Boutari Moschofilero 2008

-Gaia Thalassitis 2008

-Tsantali Rapsani Reserve 2005, $18.90

-Alpha Estate 2006, $45 Vintages

-Amyndeon Rose Sparkling 2007

-Dom. Gerovassiliou Avaton 2005, $40

-Katogi Averoff Estate 2004, $24.95

-Kir Yianni Paranga 2008, $14.50

-Dom. Mercouri 2006, $18.95

-Papaioannou Estate Nemea 2005, $20.95

-Dom. Sigalas Santorini Barrel 2008, $28

*** Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Dom. Sigalas Santorini 2008, $20

-Cair Athiri of Rhodes 2008

-Papagiannakos Savatiano 2008, $17.95

-Spiropoulos Meliasto 2008

-Kir Yianni Ramnista 2005, $21.95.

-Alpha Estate White 2008, $28

-Oenoforos Mikros Vorias Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc 2008, $15.95

-Ktima Tselepos Amalia Brut NV, $25

-Ktima Tselepos Nemea Driopi 2006, $19.95.

The Food: lamb lollipops, hot roast beef, cheeses, shrimp, crab cakes, beef kabobs, lobster and tortilla chips, and the like.

The Downside: it was lightly attended, possibly because the LCBO Product Consultants did not come (conflict-of-interest rules). Also, there was no water on the trade floor.

The Upside: great food, sometimes exceeding the quality of the wines.

The Contact Person: sperpera@allaboutgreekwine.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 89.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH!

2009-06-21T18:29:00.001-04:00

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *
++++++++++++++++++++++

2. HEART HEALTHY FOODS FOR LIFE; preventing heart disease through diet
and nutrition (Penguin Books, 2009, 413 pages, ISBN 978-0-14-305659-1,
$24 Canadian soft covers) is by Leslie Beck, RD, and author of many
books and food columns on nutrition. Indeed, she manages about one book
a year. Here she concentrates on which foods are the best to eat if you
want to avoid or prevent heart disease, and how often to eat them, how
much to eat of them, and how to add them to your daily diet. She also
has useful guidelines on how to buy, store and prepare these foods. All
the heart healthy foods are rich in fibre, low in saturated fats, and
low in sodium. Chapter 10 is devoted to that bugaboo word "exercise".
Nobody really wants to do it, but it is unavoidable. She gives some
cardiovascular workouts plus exercises for strength and flexibility.
Michelle Gelok, RD, did the recipe development and nutritional analysis
(this is her third such work with Beck). The recipes have large type,
cover all courses, include both avoirdupois and metric listings of
ingredients, and have a separate index. There's more at
www.lesliebeck.com.
Audience and level of use: those who want a healthier diet.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: blueberry and apple
smoothie; spinach and mushroom and goat cheese salad; lemon poppy seed
loaf; carrot ginger soup; chicken barley soup; beef and vegetable stew.
The downside to this book:
The upside to this book: there is a nice chapter on how to eat in
restaurants.
Quality/Price Rating: 91.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

TASTING: LCBO Vintages releases of June 20, 2009

2009-06-17T19:21:00.001-04:00

WORLD WINE WATCH (VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR JUNE 20, 2009
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing <deantudor@deantudor.com>
Always at www.deantudor.com since 1995. Also visit my "Wines, Beers and
Spirits of the Net Compendium", a guide to thousands of news items and
RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits.
My tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are
QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated
wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the
release for wine writers or product consultants. Also, some defective
or corked wines are not available for re-tasting.

TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Peninsula Ridge Viognier 2007 Niagara: great for booth food and
sipping, full flavours, long enough finish for several courses.
+662601, $14.95, QPR: 91.
2. La Chablisienne Saint-Bris Sauvignon Blanc 2007: MVC, still a curio
appellation. +641753, $15.95, QPR: 90.

TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Chakana Malbec 2008 Mendoza: mounds of flavour, North American
appeal, off-dry on mid-palate. +3509, $13.95.
2. Navarro Correas Alegoria Gran Reserva Malbec 2006 Mendoza: intense
smokey and anise flavours. +28928, $18.95, QPR: 90.
3. Evans & Tate Shiraz 2004 Margaret River: a food wine with a great
finish, some interesting mint and black fruit along the way. +606905,
$19.95, QPR: 90.
4. Nick Faldo Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Coonawarra: delicious
off-dry cabernet with a woody underside. +1685, $19.95, QPR: 90.
5. Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2008 WO Coastal South Africa: intense Rhone
syrah complexity, twist top, 14.8% ABV, buy it all at this price. It's
a Friday wine. +595280, $15, QPR: 93.
6. Pierre Sourdais Tradition Chinon 2005: excellent cabernet franc
tones of strawbs and rasps and herbs. +108506, $20.95, QPR: 90.
7. Vesevo Beneventano Aglianico 2006 Campania: more delicious wine,
wood and black fruits, all in play. Great juice. Another Friday wine to
snap up, buy lots. +120907, $16.95, QPR: 93.
8. Rocca delle Macie Rubizzo Sangiovese di Toscana 2006: ripe, well
priced summer sipper, good with food too, soft cherries. Chianti for
the North American crowd. +913780, $14.95, QPR: 90.
9. Cunha Martins Red 2006 Dao: intriguingly dense, with wood and plums,
nice engaging finish. +114462, $14.95, QPR: 90.
10. Albet I Noya Lignum 2006 Penedes: enjoyable, light, summery,
fruity, southern Rhone style. Organic. +1313, $16.95, QPR: 90.
11. Sabor Real Vinas Centenarias Tempranillo 2005 Toro: a lumber wine
with manly flavours for dad. +122325, $19.95, QPR: 90.

VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are ready to enjoy right now. Consumers
could buy and bring to those restaurants with corkage programs.
1. Stags' Leap Winery Chardonnay 2007 Napa, +655381, $29.95 retail.
2. Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Sonoma, +977173, $39.95
3. Greg Norman California Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 North Coast,
+8722, $24.95.
4. Dominio del Plata Susana Balbo Signature Malbec 2007 Mendoza,
+79798, $27.95.
5. Vina Cobas Bramare Malbec 2006 Mendoza, +123729, $39.95.
6. Perez Cruz Reserva Limited Edition Carmenere 2007 Maipo, +670539,
$24.95.
7. Chateau Courreges 2005 Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, +117606, $24.95.
8. Fontodi Chianti Classico 2006, +933317, $28.95.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

The Event: A tasting of wines from broker Christophe Garnier Selection (CGS) repped in Ontario by Ex-Cellars.

2009-06-17T19:20:00.001-04:00

The Time and Date: Monday, May 11, 2009 3 Pm to 7:30 PM

The Event: A tasting of wines from broker Christophe Garnier Selection (CGS) repped in Ontario by Ex-Cellars.

The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve, King Street

The Target Audience: clients, wine press and trade.

The Availability/Catalogue: the seven wines can be ordered through Ex-Cellars.

The Quote/Background: Christophe Garnier himself was here to lead the tasting. Established in 1987 at Tours, CGS is run by M. Garnier; he also has his own Domaine de la Croule in the Loire.

The Wines:

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Yvon & Pascal Tabordet Pouilly Fume 2008, $29.50.

-Pascal Pibaleau Cremant de Loire Rose, $28.50

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Pascal Pibaleau Cremant de Loire Brut, $28.50

-Pierre Cherrie Dom. De la Rossignole Sancerre 2007, $28.50

*** Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine de la Croule Touraine Azay-le-Rideau 2007, $25

-Pascal & Alain Lorieux St. Nicolas de Bourgueil Agnes Sorel 2005, $31.50

-Pascal & Alain Lorieux Chinon Rouge Expression 2007, $24

The Food: cheese and assorted vegetables, olives, and breads.

The Contact Person: nuray@ex-cellars.ca

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 88.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! * "The Wine Trials"

2009-06-16T19:20:00.001-04:00

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! *
++++++++++++++++++++++

1. THE WINE TRIALS (Fearless Critic, 2008; distr. T.Allen, 189 pages,
ISBN 978-0974014357, $14.95 US soft covers) is by Robin Goldstein, with
Alexis Nerschkowitsch. Both have food and wine credentials, in addition
to authoring restaurant review books and travel books. They have been
assisted by eight named contributing writers and 500 named blind
tasters. The object of the book is to come up with hidden wine values.
The cover proclaims "brown-bag blind tastings reveal the surprising
wine values under $15". That's $15 US, of course, and does not allow
for discounts and sales so prevalent in the US marketplace. For
example, top rated Segura Viudas Brut Reserva (no. 5 in the sparkling
category) is $8 US national retail. It can be cheaper. In Ontario, it
is $14.95, a firm price. So it is possible that a top rated US wine at
$20, going on sale for under $15, could be well over $30 in Ontario.
Most of the wines sold in Ontario are under $25 the trick is to find
the best ones. This book should give some guidance. They list 100 wines
under $15 US that outscored $50 to $150 bottles, using hundreds of
blind tasters who filled in a simple form. Looking at the pictures of
the tasters, I'd have to say that most were young. Nothing wrong with
that, except maybe a lack of experience. Nevertheless, the bottom line
for us is the presentation of the top 100 wines. Values available in
Ontario include Alamos Malbec from Argentina, Aveleda Vinho Verde from
Portugal, Black Box Cabernet Sauvignon from California, Campo Viejo
Rioja from Spain, the Cono Sur range from Chile, Georges Duboeuf
Beaujolais-Villages, Guigal Cotes du Rhone (under $10 US but $18.80 in
Ontario), Mouton Cadet, Osborne Solaz from Spain, and more. The authors
have lots of material justifying their choices, and there are copious
notes for each of the 100 wines. Appendices detail the designs of the
experiment, the forms, and the statistical conclusions.
Audience and level of use: those looking for good wine values.
Some interesting or unusual facts: The book goes on at great length to
debate the premise that expensive wines taste good because you know
that they are expensive, and cheaper wines taste cheap.
The downside to this book: only about half the wines are available in
Ontario, and many are not value priced because of the exchange rate,
the LCBO markup policy and lack of sales/discounts.
The upside to this book: good scientific arguments here to probe the
cost factor
Quality/Price Rating: 91.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Trade Event: Stars of Alsace - a tasting of select wines from Maison Trimbach, Leon Beyer, and Hugel et Fils.

2009-06-16T19:19:00.001-04:00

The Time and Date: Monday, May 11, 2009 1 PM 4 PM

The Event: Stars of Alsace a tasting of select wines from Maison Trimbach, Leon Beyer, and Hugel et Fils.

The Venue: Edo, Eglinton West

The Target Audience: wine trade

The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are currently released and available through the agent or the LCBO.

The Quote/Background: Hubert Trimbach (Woodman), Marc Beyer (Trilogy), and Etienne Hugel (Halpern) came over to support this initiative.

The Wines:

Maison Trimbach [http://www.maison-trimbach.com]:

* 2006 Pinot Blanc $19.95 my rating: 3 stars

* 2007 Gewurztraminer $29.95 my rating: 4 stars
* 2005 Pinot Gris Reserve $30.95 3 stars
* 2004 Riesling 'Cuvee Frederic Emile' - 92 points "The Trimbach
family continues to render some of the world's finest Riesling"
Robert Parker's, The Wine Advocate - $69 Classics Sept 2009 4 stars
* 2001 Gewurztraminer Selection de Grains Nobles - $200 (full bottle) Classics Sept 2009 4 stars.

Leon Beyer: [http://www.leonbeyer.fr]

* 2007 Pinot Gris $16.15, +165241 General 3.5 stars
* 2005 Riesling 'Les Ecaillers' $24.70 Vintages +955403 4 stars
* 2005 Pinot Gris 'Comtes d'Eguisheim' - 91 points "...opulence
and textural allure of this Pinot Gris as well as its forceful
energy and its enveloping finishing richness of pit fruits and
nuts are all enormously impressive." Robert Parker's, The Wine
Advocate $45 Vintages Online +91603 3.5 stars
* 1998 Gewurztraminer Selection Grains Nobles - $70 half-bottle; $129 full bottle 4 stars.

Hugel & Fils: [http://www.hugel.com]

* 2007 Muscat Tradition $24.45 CW 3 stars
* 2007 Riesling 'Hugel' $24.25 CW 3.5 stars
* 2005 Pinot Noir Hugel 'Jubilee' $49.50 CW 3 stars
* 2002 Gewurztraminer 'Hugel' Selection de Grains Nobles - 92
points. The Hugels like the Beyers and Trimbachs are true to
tradition in their emphasis on dry-tasting wines across the
varietal spectrum and in the release of their best wines only
after a year or (usually) more of bottle age." Robert Parker's,
The Wine Advocate $100.95 half-bottle CW 4 stars

The Food: There were cheeses, biscuits, plus platters of food (kyu maki, tuna mtemari, butter fish sweet potato tempura, mini unagi onigiri, and salmon tataki).

The Downside: nothing

The Upside: great little slice of Alsace to taste, with compatible food.

The Contact Person: info@woodmanwinesandspirits.com; trilogy@on.aibn.com; sales@halpernwine.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): 97.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

REVIEW: Food Book -- Kneadlessly Simple (Wiley)

2009-06-15T10:57:00.001-04:00

KNEADLESSLY SIMPLE; fabulous, fuss-free, no-knead breads (John Wiley & Sons, 2009, 210 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-39986-6, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Nancy Baggett, a food writer known principally for her dessert cookbooks (one was a Beard winner). Here she riffs off of Jim Lahey's successful no-knead slow-rise French bread recipe as captured by Mark Bittman (October, 2006, New York Times) by extending the concept to all kinds of yeast breads. Lahey's was not the first, but it seemed to be the most popular as evidenced by its spread through the Internet. Baggett has made changes, such as using ice water and refrigeration to slow down the biga. Log rolling is by baking authors Peter Reinhart and Nick Malgieri. The 75 recipes here are a boon to harried cooks and bakers everywhere. The secret to good bread making, whether you knead or not, is simply a long, slow rise. You'll only need one bowl, one spoon, some simple steps to follow, and minimal cleanup. What you will get is artisanal bread that is thick, crusty, with moderately sized holes in the crumb. Her details and instructions are precise, with a range of rising times to suit your own schedule. And of course, she has a troubleshooting section. It is worth the effort to read about how to convert your favourite old bread recipe into the newer mode, for then you can convert most anything. There is a 32 page section on "easiest ever yeast breads", followed by specific chapters on American favourites, Old World classics, multi-grain and gluten-free breads, and sweet breads. She believes that the best yeast for the slow rise is bread machine yeast because it does not need to be re-hydrated and don't use cake or compressed yeast. The basic technique takes nine steps, and is explained on pages 1 to 3. Each prep here usually has variations.

Audience and level of use: bakers

Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: cheddar bread; farmhouse potato bread with dill and olives; English muffin loaves; crusty yeasted cornbread; challah.

The downside to this book: the emphasis in the book is on "knowing the rules before breaking them", which I wholeheartedly agree with, but may rub some people the wrong way in these permissive times.

The upside to this book: each recipe has a rating for its ease of preparation.

Quality/Price Rating: 89.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

TRADE EVENT: Finale to Salute, May 9, 2008

2009-06-15T10:56:00.000-04:00

The Time and Date: Saturday, May 9, 2009 7 PM to 9PM

The Event: Finale to Salute

The Venue: Thompson Landry Gallery, Distillery District

The Target Audience: consumers

The Availability/Catalogue: originally billed as a "finale" to Salute week, and announced for the much larger Fermentation Cellars, this event was scaled back to a gallery, offered at an earlier time, and had only one agent (www.nokhrinwines.com)

The Quote/Background: "OK, so where is everybody?"

The Wines: I tasted every single wine.

**** Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine Bourbon Claudius 2006 Beaujolais "Reserve", $23

-Domaine Bourbon Morgon 2006 Beaujolais, $26.50

***1/2 Three and a Half Stars (88 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine du Bois des Meges Cotes du Rhone Rouge 2007, $21.50

*** Three Stars (85 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Domaine Bourbon Julienas 2006 Beaujolais, $27.25

-Vignoble Gibault Valcancay Blanc Loire 2008, $17 (70% sauvignon blanc, 30% chardonnay)

-Vignoble Gibault Sauvignon Blanc Loire 2008, $15.75

-Domaine du Bois des Meges Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2007, $21.50

The Food: tapas were announced, but the scaled-back venue had cheeses and pates from A Taste of Quebec, the gallery's sister company. There were 10 cheeses, all from cow milk. But some were raw milk cheeses: Le Ciel, Le Baluchon (also organic), and Riopelle. All cheeses but two were winners in the Dairy Farmers of Canada grand competition, held every two years. The other cheeses, made from pasteurized cow milk: Miranda, Fleurmier, Blue Benedictin, Le Migernon, Clos St-Ambroise, Le Douanier, and Sauvagine. All were available from A Taste of Quebec.

The Downside: I had counted on this night to taste many wines that I had skipped over at the Thursday trade event. That was not to be, and I was so disappointed. Indeed, there were more types of cheeses than there were types of wines. Luckily, I had not tasted the Nokhrin wines on Thursday, so I was able to concentrate more on them, looking for a match with the various cheeses. This took time.

The Upside: well, it was not crowded, which ultimately was a shame.

The Contact Person: jt@thompsonlandry.com; steve@stevethurlow.com; alex@nokhrinwines.com

The Marketing Effectiveness (numerical grade): an unranked consumer event. But since I love cheese and wine matching (and hate crowds), I'd give it a personal 87. But then, that's just me.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

BOOK REVIEWS: SOME RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOKS

2009-06-10T20:10:00.001-04:00

THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOKS...

...are one of the hottest trends in cookbooks.

Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual schtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work, but how could that be? They all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. But of course there are a lot of food shots, verging on gastroporn. The endorsements are from other celebrities in a magnificent case of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books

15. TAVERN ON THE GREEN (Artisan, 2008; distr. T. Allen, 310 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-357-6, $35 US hard covers) is by Jennifer Oz LeRoy and Kay LeRoy, a daughter and mother who have been involved with the establishment (and with Maxwell's Plum). The resto is in Central Park in New York City; some 700,000 patrons dine there every year. This book is touted as a "souvenir volume" and a "perfect keepsake", with additional log rolling by celebrities. It documents its origins in the 1870s as a sheep shelter (Sheep Meadow) before becoming a resto in the 1930s, and its rebirth in the 1970s. There's a section on home entertaining with decorating tips, eight sample menus, re-creating a party, and a lot of photos and celebrities (all indexed) who have eaten there over the years. Courses range from apps with cocktails through sit-downs (soups to desserts). Try their Stiletto (a Valentine's Day cocktail), Christmas devilled eggs, cucumber-avocado puree, smoked chicken and wild rice salad, almond-crusted French toast, and banana-bourbon-raisin bread. About 125 recipes. No metric conversion charts. Quality/Price rating: 84.

16. THE EIFFEL TOWER RESTAURANT COOKBOOK; capturing the magic of Paris (Chronicle Books, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 144 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6047-5, $35 US hard covers) is by Jean Joho with Chandra Ram. Joho is a Beard award winning chef, and proprietor of the Eiffel Tower Restaurant in Las Vegas. Ram is an editor for "Plate" magazine. And yes, this is the resto in Las Vegas Nevada, and NOT the resto at the Parisian tower itself. God knows what the licensing fee must be, since there are also copious images of the tower throughout the book and the establishment itself, which sets atop the Paris Hotel & Resort. It is a definite tourist attraction, although Joho is a classy chef with top-notch food ideas. You must look beyond the red plush suede book cover. There are 75 photos showing us some of the plated foods and a lot of the restaurant operations. Fifty recipes are presented, from amuse bouche to desserts, arranged by course. Try the smoked salmon spoons, the caraway gougeres, the sweet corn madeleines with caviar, the skirt steak roulades, or the foie gras with cured duck breast. Metric conversion tables. It helps to have a good home larder and a mise en place. Nevertheless, a good foodie book: Joho needs no log rollers. Quality/Price rating: 87.

17. URBAN ITALIAN; simple recipes and true stories from a life in food (Bloomsbury USA, 2008, 311 pages, ISBN 978-1-59691-470-4, $35 US hard covers) is by Andrew Carmellini and Gwen Hyman. He's a Beard winner, once at Boulud, and now running A Voce. She's a food writing educator who is the focusing food writer here. Top log rollers include Anthony Bourdain, Sara Moulton, and Michael Ruhlman. There are about 100 family-style recipes here, covering four courses with sides, based on home Italian cooking. Very simple, too: tomato and mozzarella arancini, pasta e fagioli, penne with bacon and radicchio, broccoli rabe with goat cheese, artichoke fritto, chicken leg cacciatore. Flavours exudes from every page. The book is part memoir too, with anecdotes in the cooks' notes, and text on his times behind diverse kitchen stoves. Only avoirdupois weights and measures are given. Sources for foods are all New York city or Italy. This is an upscale home cooking book, suitable also for use at entertaining. Quality/Price rating: 85.

18. COOKING WITH THE SEAFOOD STEWARD (Arnica Publishing, 2009, 198 pages, ISBN 978-0-9801942-5-8, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Gary Rainer Puetz, an award-winning seafood chef running Seafood Steward; he is currently Executive Chef for Pacific Seafood, the largest distributor of seafood to restaurants and hotels in the USA. He is based in the state of Washington. This is the first in a series of cookbooks that he is now writing. This is a basic seafood cookbook, a primer, covering all manner of shrimp, lobster, clam, salmon, crab, oyster, tuna, scallops, squid, snapper, mahi mahi, sturgeon, and halibut items you will find on most restaurant menus. When you buy these items, you will probably find them in portions, all dressed and cleaned. And, unfortunately, there are other preps here: desserts, non-seafood sides and salads, preps that are not seafood and which can be easily found elsewhere. Over 90 recipes and many tips. Try the cheeky ones: sautéed cod cheeks with sweet peppers or halibut cheeks braised with caramelized onion and cream. Quality/Price rating: 84.

19. A PLATTER OF FIGS AND OTHER RECIPES (Artisan, 2008; distr. T. Allen, 294 pages, ISBN 978-1-57965-346-0, $35 US hard covers) is by David Tanis, who is head chef at Chez Panisse for six months a year (he's been there since the 1980s). The rest of the time he's in Paris. Logrollers of the highest order have turned out here: Michael Pollan, Madhur Jaffrey, Judy Rodgers, and Deborah Madison (but Frances McDormand?). The emphasis here is on simple but classy meals at home with friends. Here he has 24 seasonal menus, mainly served on platters family style. There's an opening section that is sort of memoirish in tone. After that, the arrangement is by seasonal menu beginning with Spring; there are six apiece. In Spring, there's the rabbit menu of spinach cake with herb salad, mustard rabbit, parsnips epiphany-style (slightly caramelized), and apple tart. In Summer, there's a fish taco menu with homemade chips, both tomato and tomatillos salsa, avocado salad, and the tacos. Fall sees a Tuscan dinner of green lasagna, bistecca with fried artichokes, and castagnaccia. Winter has a New Mexican menu of avocado quesadillas, spicy picked veggies, green chile stew, and bizochitos. There is something for everybody here. Menus are three courses, sometimes four. Themes are Italian, Moroccan and North African, French, Mexican, and Spanish. Weights and measures are avoirdupois, with no metric conversion charts. Layout is easy on the eyes, with better-than-usual photos. Quality/Price rating: 86.

20. THE VINTNER'S KITCHEN; celebrating the wines of Oregon (Arnica Publishing, 2009; dist. Canadian Manda Group, 187 pages, ISBN 0-9794771-3-1, $29.95 US hard covers) is by William King, who has been an executive chef in Oregon since 1975. He is currently Vice President of Culinary Development for McCormick & Schmick's Seafood Restaurant Group, which runs 75 restos. This is part of the Chef's Bounty cookbook series from Arnica. Recipes have been contributed by various wineries and restaurants in Oregon, and then regularized. The aim has been to pair a select number of wines throughout the state with regional food. Weights and measures are expressed in avoirdupois, but there is no metric conversion chart. Thirty of the 400 wineries are covered, with some notes about the establishments and their wines. There are a lot of meat dishes and few vegetarian (mostly seafood). Try pomegranate and spice braised pork, braised lamb shanks, braised short ribs, duck with syrah, grilled molasses-marinated quail, and cedar-planked steelhead trout. There's a brief index by major meat ingredient. Quality/Price rating: 85.

21. A GOOD CATCH; sustainable seafood recipes from Canada's top chefs (Greystone/David Suzuki Foundation, 2008; distr. Douglas & McIntyre, 186 pages, ISBN 978-1-55365-3851, $24.95 soft covers) has been pulled together by Jill Lambert, a writer and editor of food books. There are over 90 recipes here from Canadian cookbook authors and chefs (improbable as it may seem, the very first prep pan-roasted arctic char with lobster mashed potatoes and pinot noir sauce comes from my son-in-law Michael Howell of Tempest Restaurant in Wolfville, NS). Howell is actually in here three times, also contributing finnan haddie and chorizo chowder plus smoked sturgeon with apple-parsnip puree. Most chefs are here once, a few (such as Lynn Crawford) are in twice or so. Susur Lee contributes a giant Pacific octopus recipe. Patrick Lin of Senses (wokked spiny lobster), Jamie Kennedy (marinated herring), Sinclair Philip of Sooke Harbour (geoduck), and Patrick McMurray of Starfish (oyster sandwich) are also here. There are no illustrations showing techniques or plated products, but SeaChoice (an initiative of Sustainable Seafood Canada) list the best choices for fish or seafood for each prep. So, for an oyster chowder, they recommend "farmed oysters" as the best choice, while wild oysters are listed as "some concerns". For the cedar-planked salmon, there are some concerns about wild Pacific salmon, and farmed salmon is to be avoided. Alternative fish are suggested, but this is rather hard to do with shellfish and molluscs. Avoirdupois measurements are used, but there is a table of metric equivalents. The book opens with a basic primer on fish selection and cooking, a separate chapter on fish, another on shellfish and mollusks, and concluding material on sustainability. Visit www.seachoice.org for more. Quality/Price rating: 91.

22. THE SALPICON COOKBOOK; contemporary Mexican cuisine (Chronicle Books, 2008; distr. Raincoast, 192 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-6046-8, $40 US hard covers) is by Priscila Satkoff, chef and proprietor of Salpicon Restaurant in Chicago. Her co-author is her husband Vincent, who is also co-owner of the resto and its wine director. The resto has an award-winning wine list as well as over 100 tequila selections. Log rollers include Feran Adria, William Rice, Salvatore Ferragamo, and Charlie Trotter. Chef Priscila grew up in Mexico City, moved to the USA, and developed her signature melding of Mexican seasonings with American ingredients. She later opened her resto 14 years ago in 1995, and this cookbook is the initial result. This collection has 80 recipes, with wine pairing notes from Vincent. His basic wine matches are in a chart, and posit that heavily oaked white wines are to be avoided. He says to prefer high-acid crisp white wines, and fruit forward reds. With fresh chiles, go with white wines; dried chiles need reds. While the food ingredients are listed by avoirdupois weights and measures, there is a table of equivalents for metric. The sources list for ingredients and equipment is all US. Courses range from appetizers through to desserts, and naturally come off her menus. Try grilled cactus and seafood napoleons with chipotle cream, crab cakes with avocado-habanero sauce, shredded pork with roasted tomatoes and chipotle chiles, halibut in parchment with tequila, and duck two ways in ancho-almond sauce. Upscale all the way. First rate photography by Jeff Kauck makes this a winner. Quality/Price rating: 89.

23. MADE IN SPAIN; Spanish dishes for the American kitchen (Clarkson Potter, 2008, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-307-38263-4, $35 US hard covers) is by Beard award-winning chef Jose Andres, the host of PBS's "Made in Spain". These 100 recipes come mainly from the show. He and his partners operate seven restaurants in and around Washington, DC. In 2005 he had authored "Tapas", along with Richard Wolffe who also helped write this book and the TV series. This varied and diverse culinary tour of Spain almost memoirish -- includes Basque (fish and aromatic stews), Cantabria (artisanal cheeses), Valencia (paella and rice), and Castilla-La Mancha (saffron). The arrangement of the book is by course, with one region featured for each. Soup has Madrid and its gazpacho, vegetables in Navarra with oyster mushrooms, pork in Cataluna, sweets in Asturias, drinks (mostly wine) in La Rioja, plus seafood in Galicia. Resources are US, and the weights and measures are in avoirdupois only, with no metric conversions. Ingredients are also typefaced with caps. Great close-up photography by Thomas Schauer; thankfully there are no touristy pix. Quality/Price rating: 87.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com