NEO VINO

Smell the Cork!

2008-01-04T14:02:00.000-05:00

Well, now that I read this article from Slate Magazine that Ben sent me, I have to add on to the saying:

"Love French Wine. Hate French politics"

It's now:

"Love French Wine. Hate French politics. Laugh because we have better sommeliers."

Booyahhhh Jacques Chirac! Seriously, if you need good service USA-style and want to sip on some delicious West Coast Pinot, come on over. You can stay at my cousin Terry's house. He's got a sweet above ground pool and a fridge full of corn dogs.

Domaine Alar...ehhhhhhhhh!

2007-10-30T20:18:00.000-05:00

I tried the 2005 Domaine Alary Daniel Et Denis, Cairanne (Cotes Du Rhone) a few months ago and really liked it. It costs around $15 retail and drinks more like a $30-40 wine. What a deal. If you can find it, buy it up. I drank another bottle (with friends of course) tonight, and it was even better than I remembered. Soooo smoooth, settled acid and nice subtle fruit.

My only real concern is, why was the Fonz's "office" the men's bathroom?

My television debut

2007-09-23T19:48:00.000-05:00

As a young boy raising horses on my father's Shetland Pony stud ranch, I always dreamed of being on television. I'd ride around the farm in my chaps with my ascot fluttering to the side in the chilly night air, dreaming about being Matthew Burton's hilarious best friend on It's Your Move (probably the most under-appreciated show of all time next to "Freaks and Geeks").

Obviously it never happened. But I did make it on two episodes of the new Food Network show, Heavyweights. Check out "Chips Cash In" and "Big Chocolate". I miss those horses.

Thomas Jefferson and Unicycles...

2007-08-20T10:55:00.000-05:00

Last night I watched "The Cultivated Life: Thomas Jefferson and Wine" on PBS. Fascinating.

Did you know that, in addition to appointing Jefferson as Secretary of State, President George Washington made him the White House sommelier? Jefferson also acted as personal sommelier to Madison and Adams.

Earning $25,000 a year as President, Jefferson was known to spend the majority of his cash on importing wine and food from France. At the end of his 8 year term, he was in the red $10,000.

Jefferson was also known to have invented the unicycle as means to quickly and drunkenly ride through his vineyard picking grapes without damaging nearby vines. Okay, I made that one up.

Check it out..

Are you kidding me?

2007-08-05T12:09:00.000-05:00

I've had some bad luck lately...

I ate dinner the other night at Azzurro in Richmond
with my in laws, my incredibly pregnant and glowing
wife and newly pregnant and lovely friend, Laurie.
The food was painfully average for the price, and I
had the misfortune (fortune) of experiencing a new
low in wine service.

After telling me that he knew every wine on the list,
the waiter recommended the 2005 Robert Pecota
Sauvignon Blanc. Sounded good to me. So, he brings the
wine to the table a few minutes later and pours me a
glass. I glance at the label as he presents it, and it
looks overly sweaty. HMMMM. I swirl it a little, take in the
aroma and swallow. Warm. Not barely cold. Warm.

So, I passed it to my wife to make sure it wasn't
me. Look, I hate sending back wine. I hate the feeling
of the server going back in the kitchen and slagging
me. Chefs and dishwashers popping out to see who the
a-hole is who sent it back. And I know I shouldn't feel bad,
but I do.

Anyway, after I tell him it's not at the right
temperature, he says, "Yeah, I know, we've been having
some problems with our refrigerator." What?

But...you still served my table a warm bottle? Not knowing the
proper temp to serve a wine is kind-of understandable. But this
is unforgivable.

At the very least, the manager/owners should have pulled popular bottles and put them in buckets before dinner service. My mind is blown.

So, he brought over a bucket with ice, and we had to
wait until our entrees were served to drink it. By that
time, everyone was ready for red.

I'm not a picky guy. I just can't stomach warm white white. And I hate bad service. If I did something that ridiculous at my job, I wouldn't last long.

The Robert Pecota Sauvignon Blanc L'Artiste was nice though – a subtle lime, grapefruit, melon, green apple flavor; crisp, not too electric.

My face is going to explode!

2007-08-01T20:39:00.000-05:00

I've had a sinus infection for two weeks and haven't been drinking any wine. Feeling better finally and will be back on the bottle tomorrow.

The wine that saved my "anniversary" dinner

2007-07-10T20:41:00.000-05:00

Over the July 4th weekend, my brother and his wife, my mom and dad and Anya and I went out for a dinner at one of our favorite places in Virginia Beach, One Fish, Two Fish. That night, it should have been called, One Douche, Two Douche.

The service and meal was ridiculously bad (I'll spare you the details). And I haven't experienced "food-tude" from servers like in a long time.

The good news is that we had a great bottle of wine – Patricia Green 2005 Sauvignon Blanc. I know that Oregon is becoming known for it's Pinot Noir, but this wine was one of the best West Coast Sauvignon Blancs I've tasted. It reminded me of a well-balanced Sancerre, thankfully void of the trendy, overly electric New Zealand zing (that's fancy wine talk, yo).

Aroma: Green Apple, grapefruit, grass
Flavor: Green Apple, lime, smooth
Price: $17 retail

This is actually pretty good

2007-06-03T12:01:00.000-05:00

I was outside by the pool thirsty, sweating my arse off and didn't feel like a glass of white wine. So I went inside and grabbed a Coors Light. As I walked back by our herb garden, I pulled some cilantro and stuffed it in the bottle - not sure why. I've cooked with both together before, so I figured it might give the Coors a little more flavor. And it did. It was really good.

But to confirm my discovery, I had to test it on other people - without telling them of course. I handed out a few bottles and waited...Everyone really liked it.

There could have been many factors why, however:
The cilantro added a fresh and envigorating flavor.
It was 92 degrees and the beer was ice-cold.
The Amy Winehouse record was playing and people were feeling good.
And my Johnathan Taylor Thomas-like body was glistening in the sun, igniting lightening fast hormone synapses. For the girls. I think.

Seriously, try the cilantro in a light beer when you're not in the mood for wine. It gives it a really nice flavor.

A Legend in the Wine World

2007-05-22T19:51:00.000-05:00

It’s really cool to learn about the stories and folklore that surround certain wineries. Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio is one of those special wines.

The story goes: One day Jesus’ lesser known brother, Toby, was walking down the streets of Jerusalem when he came across a street merchant selling Bahamian hair braids. He was jealous of his brother’s long flowing hair, so he thought it would be the perfect thing to boost his self- confidence and attract the ladies.

The hair braider’s name was …. Christi, and she was born of a sheepherder and “modern” dance teacher. She was so excited about doing Toby’s hair that she severely over-tightened the braids.

When Toby showed up to meet Jesus and the gang at the local watering hole, he was laughed out of the club. So embarrassed, he returned to Christi’s street side salon and pelted her with gefilte fish until she cried tears of merlot.

Okay, I may be missing a few details, so here’s the real story as told by Alexis Lichine from Global Gourmet.

“When Lucifer fell from grace, he and his retinue landed with such a crash that the land beneath them collapsed, to form the Bay of Naples. Lucifer soon realized he was in the place nearest to his lost Paradise, so he populated the area of Naples with his demons. The result was that Naples became a citadel of wickedness. The Savior, looking down one day, grieved to see the terrestrial paradise so steeped in sin and He wept, His tear falling on Mount Vesuvius. From the tear a vine sprang up, and it multiplied into a vineyard.”

This wine was introduced to me by my father-in-law in Brooklyn 6 years ago. And every year on my birthday, he brings me a bottle.

It’s a fantastic Italian table wine for the price. Check it out.

Aroma:Fruity, a little smoke
Flavor:Plums, Pepper
Price:$20

If I knew then what I know now, I might have just gone to beauty school, started collecting ascots and wearing pinky toe rings. Damn it…

2007-05-14T20:30:00.000-05:00

I was sitting on my couch listening to the St. Vincent song, “Now Now” (she’s on tour with John Vanderslice at the moment). And I guess it put me in a real euphoric and sensitive mood because I caught myself using a phrase that’s historically reserved for guys named Giles.

I took a sip of Domaine Charvin’s 2004 “Le Poutet” and, without hesitation, I spurted out, “my God, this is lovely.”

As the praise sang out of my mouth, I froze solid. My wife, who already thinks I’m more “metro” than I need to be, heard me. So, I tried to shake it off with a couple of forced, muscle-tearing neck cracks and a fake yawn. As her laughter began to echo in the back of my head and the cold chills sprinted down my arms in slow motion, I did what any self-respecting man would do … I stood up as tall as I could, arched my back, balled my right fist and punched myself in the zipper as hard as I could.

I’ve been on a Southern Rhone tear for a while, and right as I began to feel like I needed a change, I tried this one. It blows me away that there are so many amazing wines in this region … and I haven’t even cracked the surface.

Try this wine … and don’t judge me.

Aroma: Perfect amount of earthiness, cherry, chocolate
Flavor: smooth, cherry, chocolate, hint of coffee
Price: $16-ish

Ben in France

2007-05-02T19:22:00.000-05:00

Sure, I'm jealous. Ben is spending a month in Southern France touring and sampling the hyped 2005s. Some say they're the best in decades.

He's also visiting local beauty shops with his "Bottle caps and Ballsackery" magic show. Huge success, I hear.

Anyway, here are some gorgeous photos of his day at Domaine Catherine Le Goeuil. He said lunch with Catherine was incredible.

Le Roc the House

2007-04-30T20:33:00.000-05:00

Finally, a wine for coffee lovers.

The 2005 Les Roc Des Domaine Anges “Segna De Cor” (or Roc de Anges spelled backwards) has one of the more unique taste profiles I’ve come across during my “short bus” tour through the wine world.

It has an amazing roasted coffee finish. It’s not an incredibly fruity wine though, which is why I think I like it so much. I’ve been drinking so many fruity grenache blends, that this was a nice change.

Aroma: chocolate, coffee, very light fruit, slightly earthy
Flavor: coffee, dark fruit
Price: $18.99

Shroomin'...on a Sunday Afternoon

2007-04-08T18:59:00.000-05:00

We grew up being told that if you took hallucinogens, like mushrooms, you’d have flashbacks years later. Recently, I discovered it’s true.

But, I didn’t re-enter a world of sunburned Barbie dolls with harmonicas as mouths riding purple beret–wearing gargoyles through a forest of giant asparagus.

I used to hate it when people embellished their ”war” stories to sound cool and “experienced.” They’re the same people who name drop, stop liking bands when they get popular and say stuff like, “you want to come with?” Think about it.

Sure, I had my fair share of weird experiences in college, but I never once found myself in Druggachusettes. Barfing and paranoid, yes. Cartoon characters dancing down the walls to “Love is Alright Tonight," no.

But, when I smelled the aroma of 2005 Domaine De Fenouillet, the mushroom aroma brought me back. It was earthy as all get-out, and I had to let it breathe for 10 minutes after my first sip just to pick the clay and straw out of my teeth.

Once it opened up and settled down a bit, it was a nice wine for the price. I really like interesting wines like this that have guts to them. I like to smell and taste the ground from where the grapes where grown.

If you get a chance, try this wine. And if you didn’t get the “Druggachusettes“ reference, I declare this video to be…AWESOME.

Domaine De Fenouillet
Vin de Pays De Vaucluse
2005
Price: $10.00

Aroma: Mushroom, Earth, dark fruit, tobacco
Flavor: Blackberry, tobacco heat, slightly gritty when just opened

Something to question and make you feel weird

2007-03-26T20:35:00.000-05:00

What's worse to say in public...?

"Grip it and rip it" – made popular by crazy redneck and professional embarrassment, John Daly.

Or

"Rip it and sip it"– created by my friend Ben who is the only guy I know who wears t-shirts with French winemakers (Henri Bonneau for example) on them...more on that later.

Wine Harmony – John Vanderslice

2007-03-08T20:14:00.000-05:00

Great record labels are like great wine producers. They have depth. And I have to thank Barsuk Records for opening my shallow southern ears to a stable of music that has really changed my life.

While waiting for a Death Cab for Cutie record to come out, I discovered John Vanderslice on the Barsuk website. "Time Travel Is Lonely" made me feel all warm inside. Like seconds after a shot of Maker’s or … or… or when Mr. Stratton finally married Kate on Silver Spoons.

Well, since then I’ve counted the days between every release, including the highly anticipated, new record he’s mixing right now. John’s music represents the perfect evolution of music maturity and relevance – something that does not often exist.

In April he kicks off his spring tour, and if you haven’t seen him before, make the trip. One of the best shows I’ve ever seen was a Vanderslizzy explosion at North Six in Brooklyn with Christopher McGuire on drums. Freaking mind-blowing.

Anyway, here’s how he answered the same questions I always ask:

1. What are you up to right now?

Scott Solter, my engineer, is just about to start mixing the next record. We tracked all winter. Yesterday I planted a "purple tiger" passion flower in my front lawn. I'm waiting for it to bloom.

2. What's the first thing that comes to mind when you
picture a "wine drinker"?

Well I don't have the loaded connotations that many people in the states have regarding wine. In Europe wine and beer and alcohol in general doesn't have as much cultural baggage, people drink whatever is made well in the region they're in. To me a wine drinker is someone who's holding a cup of fermented grapes.

3. White? Red? What brands are you drinking?

I love red wine. I bought a 2003 Clos la Coutale at Plumpjack in Noe Valley for $10. It's a very good red table wine from Cahors, which is very close to Bordeaux.

I recently had a great bottle from Ridge, a 2004 Three Valleys Blend that's mostly zinfandel. I love zinfandel, it's the only indigenous grape to California and it is a great place to start when buying local wines.

I have a bottle of Bandol Rose in my fridge that my mom bought, so I'll wait till she shows up to open it!

4. Ever had any cool experiences drinking wine with
someone you admire?

I remember clearly Daniel from Nada Surf taking me out to dinner in Paris. He grew up in Spain and has lived everywhere. He is pretty much the savviest guy I've hung out with. We walked up Montmartre and had a bottle of Burgundy.

5. When you're in the studio, do you drink wine?

I never drink in the studio. It really screws with my voice, so I'll only drink when I have time off from music. So this probably motivates me to really enjoy it when I can.

6. If a famous winery wanted you as a sponsor, how much would it cost them to get their wine label tattooed on your arm?

Well, I hope I don't sound like too much of a pussy, but I wouldn't ever get a tattoo. The idea of permanently marking my skin sounds absurd. But that's not to say I'm not for sale...

7.Ever think it'll get to a point where, instead of a bump of coke, groupies will want to go backstage for a glass of 1947 Chateau Petrus?

You'd be surprised by the variation of backstage beverages! I've seen very fancy single malts and wine everywhere...

Time Travel Is Lonely - MP3

Scotch Guard Your Panties ...

2007-02-26T20:56:00.000-05:00

... The Cold Blooded Chillers are coming soon to a poolside near you (this site). Glasses of Rose. Tasteful clothing. Reputations. Nothing will be spared.

Let Me See That Tootsie Roll

2007-02-20T19:33:00.000-05:00

First of all, sorry about the alcohol induced Grammy tirade. Oh, Beaujolais, you sexy but destructive temptress. I still hate the Dixie Chicks like Michael Richards hates phone cams.

Anyhoo, a friend came over the other night, so I broke out a 2004 Domaine Du Joncier, Lirac. It’s such a great wine for the price. And, as he was half drunk and slightly baked, I wasn’t about to go any deeper in my collection.

After a sip or two, he flipped. This guy doesn’t often let on that he likes … well … anything too much. So it was a nice reminder of how rewarding it is to see someone get blown away by a wine.

[Sorry, dude but it’s true. And I’m not just saying it just because you said I was becoming a wine snob. Like I explained, there is a BIG difference between snobbery and selectivity.] I’ll post a detailed account of our blurry conversation later.

This wine is really interesting because, among a variety of other respectable and delicious characteristics, it has a unique Tootsie Roll aroma. It took me a few glasses to pin it down. But when it hit me, it was like a freight train. And like a 12 year old getting his first gold sticker star on a book report, I was thrilled when Ben (or as my wife calls him, my “metrosexual wine lover”) said, "you nailed it."

It may be difficult to imagine how something as refined as a French wine could be described as having a cheap candy flavor. But trust me, it’s well worth a try.

Domaine Du Joncier
Lirac (Region)
2004
Price: $17.00

Aroma: Tootsie Roll. Leather. Earthy.
Flavor: Dark fruit. Slight Tootsie Roll.

And if my Tootsie Roll description wasn’t enough to drive the fine people at Domaine Du Joncier to collectively end it all by gorging themselves on poisoned frog legs, there’s this ...

I'm Officially Embarassed ...

2007-02-13T21:35:00.000-05:00

... for the music industry.

This post has absolutely nothing to do with wine, but I have to get this off my chest. As a rabid music fan and sometimes musician, I was so pissed after watching the Grammys. You know the Awards are bullshit when The Dixie Chicks win 5 and play a painfully average and predictable song to thunderous applause.

Okay, we get it … no one in the entertainment industry likes Bush. But for those single-minded douche bags to vote for The Dixie Chicks (5 times) just because they made a few controversial comments is unforgivable. The annoying, little one stood up there like, “yeah, you guys know I’m the wacky girl of the bunch. I could say anything at any moment. I’m craaazzzy.” Fucking high school mentality.

Wasn't that their time to show some class and maturity, maybe even use the soapbox to show they're serious about the issues. Nope. It was obviously just a Bush bashing to try to gain some credibility. Well it worked. But now the jokes on everyone that voted for them. She acted like a thirteen year old (no offense to parents of thirteen year olds) up there, as the rest of the liberal contingent in the audience (world) cringed in pain. (By the way, I think Bush screwed the war up too, and I'm not making this a one-sided political thing)

There were highlights though: JT was great - despite the weird long-face cam. Mary J was incredible. And Christina was unbelievable.

But where was the rock? Chili Peppers? Come on ... they're about as relevant as Martha Quinn. At least Death Cab was nominated...

OK. I'm done. More wine posts coming up...

By the way, I'll be posting a piece featuring my favorite artist John Vanderslice really soon.

Turbo Nose

2007-02-10T21:13:00.000-05:00

Music freaks will tell you that there’s nothing like listening through a great pair of headphones. You can really feel the bass and the high end is much more clear and bright.

Well, I recently discovered the Schott-Zwiesel “Top Ten Light White Wine” glasses, and they are the “headphones” of wine glasses. I don’t know how I could ever drink white wine out of anything else.

After a swirl or two, the aroma shoots out of the glass like self-esteem out of Britney Spears. I guess we should have seen the screaming evolution from her first “school-girl” video (which made me question myself resulting in answers I’m still working through) to her recently expressing creativity through a montage of paparazzi passenger seat snartch shots. Yeah, I wanted to see it Brit, but not like that … not like that, damn you.

In case you can’t find these glasses at your local store yet, check them out here.

Don't Light a Match

2007-02-03T14:14:00.000-05:00

I’ve read tasting notes where people describe certain wines as having a petrol quality, and I never really understood it … until now.

The Leon Beyer Riesling brought me back to days of being tucked-up inside an underpass in LA, huffing gas soaked in torn sweatshirt rags with two escapees from a local womens prison. Times were tough, but love was cheap and malt liquor rained from the sky like a spring shower.

Anyway, this was definitely the weirdest wine I’ve ever tried. I can’t see this working very well food traditionally paired with Riesling, although I’d love to hear suggestions.

Leon Beyer
Riesling
Alsace
2004
$20.00

Aroma: gas (so overwhelming my untrained nose couldn’t pick up anything else)
Flavor: pear, tart, very acidic

Wine Harmony with The Long Winters

2007-01-28T13:49:00.000-05:00

When I started writing, I only knew two things … I wanted to document what I was learning in an interesting way, and I wanted to explore the culture that surrounds the “new wine drinker.”

Wine, after all, is just a drink. (I realize thousands of people around the world just felt that comment like a seismic tremor … and pants were compromised) For me, it’s the environment that surrounds the glass after the wine’s poured that makes it so special. Sure, there have been many nights when I’ve popped a bottle by myself and had, as my father says, “a mountain top experience.” But, for me, sharing a new wine with friends and family is like introducing them to a new band.

So, periodically, I’m going to try to get bands that I love to give us some insight into their experiences with wine. Luckily, John Roderick (Vocals, Guitar) and Eric Corson (Vocals, Bass) from The Long Winters are as nice as their music is inspiring. If you haven’t heard about them, do yourself a favor and pick up their latest record, “Putting the Days to Bed.” And once your iPod simply refuses to play it anymore, go out and buy the rest of them. They're all amazing. And check out the 2007 tour dates to see when they're playing in your city.

What's the first thing that comes to mind when you picture a "wine drinker"?

EC: Spain.

JR: Well, the first thought I had was of a flourishing fern spilling over the sides of a macrame plant hanger, so I guess a wine drinker is someone who has one of those in their house.

White? Red? What brands are you drinking at the moment?

JR: I used to drink a lot of Chianti and a lot of Burgundy. My uncle owns a vineyard called Argyle, which produces delicious sparkling wines, so I'll put in a plug for them.

EC: Usually red. It's the one most often served at parties/get togethers that I've been to recently. I had white wine with some orange glazed grilled salmon not too long ago, though. As far as brands go, the last bottle I had was some Charles Shaw cab sav from Trader Joe's ($2.99 a bottle).

Ever had any cool experiences drinking wine with someone you admire?

EC: I reconnected with an old friend recently and we were up till 5 a.m. getting stoned, drinking wine, and catching up. Good times.

JR: I once had dinner with Mike Mills, and although I had quit drinking by then, he drank four bottles of very nice wine with our meal.

If beer is rock, shots are heavy metal, what is wine?

EC: Classical.

JR: Painting? Science? Damn! I was never good at those SAT questions.

If a famous winery wanted you as a sponsor, how much would it cost them to get their wine label tattooed on your arm?

JR: I don't have any tattoos, partly because I heard that you can't be buried in a Jewish cemetery if you have tattoos and I always wanted to keep my options open. But, everyone has a price. So, right at this moment, I'd be willing to get a wine company logo tattooed on my arm for... seven million dollars.

EC: I like tattoos, but an advertisement tattoo would be pricey. In the millions of dollars range. In addition to that, the tattoo would have to be something I could present at posh restaurants and they would have to bring out a bottle at no charge. And it'd be nice if they could set me up with some Virgin Galactic space flights. Say, one flight for me and a guest every year for the next 20 years or something.

When you're in the studio, do you drink wine?

EC: It's usually coffee and/or beer.

JR: … tangerines and coffee.

Ever think it'll get to a point where, instead of a bump of coke, groupies will want to go backstage for a glass of 1947 Chateau Petrus?

EC: It's a nice thought, but probably not.

JR: Well, most of the groupies at our shows want to come backstage and tell me all about their dreams in excruciating detail, so I'd rather you not give them any coke or nice wine, thank you. They don't need the extra excitement. We've been on some tours where the nice wine was served in abundance, but a 1947 Chateau Petrus would be somewhat overkill. The backstage wine at most rock concerts tends to be from New Zealand or Spain.

THE LONG WINTERS WINE PAIRING:

Song: Pushover(MP3) (Putting the Days to Bed)
Wine: 2002 Vina Salceda Rioja

“This Tempranillo’s bright fruit and subtle oak flavor perfectly matches John Roderick’s cheerful but complex vocals.

Is Your Pinot Noir Fish Friendly?

2007-01-23T20:20:00.000-05:00

My father-in-law recently gave me a bottle of Oregon’s Benton Lane Pinot Noir (1999), and it was delicious. From a marketing standpoint, I instantly loved the label too – a simple but arresting red stamp featuring picturesque rolling vines.

I went on their website to find out a little more…

Benton Lane takes extra care in making sure that their process doesn’t harm the beautiful Willamette Valley. They’re certified by LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology) and Salmon-Safe – meaning they don’t use harmful chemicals to control weed growth that can run off into nearby streams.

From their picture on the site, owners Steve and Carol Girard look like people you would want to drink a few glasses with late-night listening to “Rubber Soul” on the porch. If they weren’t so passionate about wine, I would bet that this family would be racing boats in New Zealand or modeling for J Crew (check out the linen shirt with one button in the middle open).

On a trip to my local wine store, I spotted a bottle of their 2005 Pinot Noir, so I thought it would be fun to do a Vertical Tasting (sampling a single type of wine from multiple vintages all from the same winery).

Here is a quick overview of what I found:

Benton Lane
Pinot Noir
1999
$20.00

Aroma: earthly, cherry, a little strawberry
Flavor: crisp, fresh fruit, smooth and velvety

Benton Lane
Pinot Noir
2005
$22.00

Aroma: blackberry, herbaceous, cherry, chocolate
Flavor: a little more spice than the 1999, a more aggressive cherry, light cola

Aroma Therapy – A New Stage in Wine Puberty

2007-01-17T19:11:00.000-05:00

A touch of rusted 9-Volt battery. Wet unicycle tire. Hint of gerbil.

In my effort to read as much about wine as humanly possible, I’ve come across a few tasting notes that are completely ridiculous. I figure that some people try to be hyper insightful or look like they have a superior “nose.” (That would be a pretty good Saturday Night Live sketch.)

Well, today I hit a new stage in my vino maturation. I transformed from a scrawny teenager with a thin, uncomfortable looking moustache, to having a few puny muscles and a Little Richard stache of silk. To this day, I still can’t grow a full beard though. And all I’ve ever wanted was to be a “misunderstood genius” with the overgrown poet-style face bush (fuck you puberty … FUCK you).

Anyway, for the longest time, I’ve been trying to figure out the pinot noir aroma. I get the fruit, the earthiness, etc. But there was always a characteristic that I couldn’t nail down. So, I went online and started reading pinot noir tasting notes, and there it was … cola. Not Coca-Cola or Pepsi, but more like cola that’s in those little wax candy bottles or gummies.

With each new experience, our senses get a little sharper. And if you can’t put your finger on a particular aroma or flavor, go online and see what other people are finding. There’s no sacred wine code that says you have to figure it out on your own. The Aroma Dictionary is a great resource.

And if you're ever in a public situation where you can't figure a wine out, make it up. It’s my new favorite sport. Here are a few good ones that I use to cover you until you build an arsenal:

Salamander
WD40
Ficus
Aquarium rocks
Edible underwear
Fly trap glue
Moustache wax
Old baseball mitt
Morning breath
Bat wings

Trickey* Wine Marketing

2007-01-11T19:45:00.000-05:00

The following is a comment from my French Jazz post by Cam Trickey, Wine Director at Lemaire in the Jefferson Hotel in Richmond, Virginia. He is a good friend and great source of information for us. As it may never get its due props as a "comment," I felt that it needed to be posted. Thanks Cam. Next time, write a book why don't you!?
************

I will try to be the advocate of Satan here and offer alternative explanations (not opinions) as to the ‘backwards’ nature of the French.

First and foremost, let us not forget that these guys have made the best wines for centuries! A bold statement perhaps, but if it wasn’t for them, wine would not be where it is today. (Not exclusively, but credit is due – ‘Terroir is a French word for Pete’s sake) And I’m not talking about awards here, I’m pushing their wine traditions.

France indeed is in a bind at present, as New World techniques and marketing take over. But, to briefly counter the necessity for them to ‘update’ labels one must understand the markets. The largest consumer’s of French wine are in Europe, and most can grasp the basics of the labels, at least to the extent of knowing more-or-less what the varietals are inside the bottle. (Let’s not touch Chateau-Neuf-du-Pape and its 13 possible varietals). The Chinese are going nuts for French wines too, and are driving the prices higher, although they are purchasing the brands.

And here indeed, is one of the possible causes of the slow paced change, branding. Yes, Stag’s Leap is well known, yes Robert Mondavi is well known, but so, for example, are all the first growths of Bordeaux. 2005 prices are putting some of these wines at the $600 - $700 mark at cost, and people will buy it… especially the Chinese! Most of us are not in the market for these wines, but those that are don’t want the varietals plastered across the label. They know what’s inside and they would not see fit that people mess with tradition.

Now the stubbornness does not come from the winemakers or even the marketing groups, but the older genres that control the appellations and have yet to change. The positive example for France is the Vins de Pays Doc area in Southern France. Here, modern techniques and different varietals are used. The sacrifice is not being able the have an AOC status (I can explain the full French labeling system at a later stage), which has traditionally been the way for buyers to know what is in the bottle.

For example, an AOC classified wine from Bordeaux, say Medoc, will be from the boundaries set for the Medoc area; will contain up to 75% of Cab Sav with the bulk of the rest made up by Merlot and lessening in Cab Franc and Petit Verdot (only harvested in appropriate years and can never be more than 15%). There is Malbec in Bordeaux, but it is virtually non-existent in the Medoc. The Alc content will be no less than 13.5% give or take a couple of decimal points. The yield will be no more than 40-45 hcl (hectare liter) per hectare. There a further Vinification processes that must be adhered to, but this should do for now. I can gain all of this information merely from glancing at the label and the fact that it has AOC status. If we give the example of California Pinot Noir, you tell me how much of what we’re drinking is Pinot or Syrah?! Is it really 13.8%, or is it stretching closer to 15%? Yes we have easier to read labels, but sometimes we have little assurance that we’re getting what we paid for.

I encourage you to take a look at the German and Italian wines. They have certain wines that are easier to understand than the French, but higher tier wines are much the same. What varietals are in Tignanello or Sassicia? What the hell is a Super Tuscan, when most don’t even know what’s in a Tuscan? What goes into Hungary’s Tokaji Aszu? Most don’t know, but they love it!!

These guys have set the standards, and where I am in entire agreement that there needs to be a greater push for making certain wines easier to understand, we are unlikely to see a change in higher tier wines, and frankly that’s the way it should be! Yellowtail is for the masses; Joseph Phelps Insignia is not… what’s in that by the way?

December 28, 2006 10:57 PM

I've just read what I wrote and must make a correction - Alc content in an AOC wine can be no less than 12.5%. Apologies for misguiding you.

I wanted to add something, a bottle of wine I recently purchased - Chateau Grand Moulinet from Pomerol, and an AOC wine. It has written on the front label '90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc'! Granted it was fairly inexpensive, but it's a step in the right direction none-the-less!

Beaujolais Your Ass Off

2007-01-09T20:36:00.000-05:00

Yeah, I know. Beaujolais isn’t the most masculine sounding wine. We picture a tiny French dude with a red beret sipping wine at a riverside café with a poodle in his lap. But this is not a wimpy wine. Trust me, once you learn a little bit about it, you’ll find that drinking Beaujolais doesn’t compromise your manhood at all. Driving your Mini Cooper with the windows down listening to Justin Timberlake does.

I’m not saying that you should take a bottle to your meathead friend’s Super Bowl party, where you’re sure to be laughed at by guys who talk about porn and UFC. But when you hang out with the group of friends who likes to recreate dishes from the French Laundry Cookbook and try new wine, give it a shot.

Beaujolais is one of those great French wines because the price tops out around $30. That means you CAN afford the very best Beaujolais in the world.

My friend Ben has a great quote:

“It’s crazy to drink cheap pinot, when you can have the very best Beaujolais for the same price.”

As a rule, there aren’t many (and I won’t say all) pinots that are good for under $15.00. This is just a generalization, so those “experts” on rare Romanian pinot … save it.

I recently tried 3 bottles of Beaujolais for around the same price that were completely different. The first two were really good and the third was just wacky. By the way, the grape used in Beaujolais is Gamay.

Clos De La Roilette
2005
Price: $20

Aroma: slightly earthy, a little dark fruit.
Flavor: cherry, fruity. just the right amount of acidity. it backed off like Yosemite Sam.

Domaine de la Voute des Crozes
Cotes de Brouilly
2005
Price: $20

Aroma: light fruit, strawberry
Flavor: strawberry, watermelon, cherry. it definitely opened up after 10 minutes or so. smooth and light.

Morgon
2005
Sarl Marcel Lapierre - 69910 Villie Morgon
Price: $25

Aroma: a little earthy, slightly herbaceous.
Flavor: aggressive like Tom Cruise at a Scientology convention. it spanked my tongue (and not in a good way). sharp fruit. like sucking on an electric fruit eel. more like a Beaujolais Nouveau.

Next: Checking out a couple pinots from Oregon