Travel magic

Kanheri caves

2009-10-26T20:03:00.029+05:30

At the northern tip of Mumbai, in Borivili, lies the magnificent Sanjay Gandhi National Park.

It is the breathing space for stressed out Mumbaikars who wish to go birding, or just a walk in the forest!

Nestled in the green environs are the glorious Kanheri caves. These caves date back to 11th century AD and beyond. As per the records work on these caves began in 1st century BC and carried on right through 11th century AD. It is 6 km from the National Park Main Gate. Kanheri comes from the Sanskrit word Krishnagiri generally meaning black in colour. They were chiseled out of a massive basaltic rock outcropping.There are 109 rock-cut cells, carved into the side of a hill. Each cave has a stone plinth for a bed. A congregation hall with huge stone pillars contains the stupa, a Buddhist shrine.

Farther up the hill are the remains of an ancient water system, canals and cisterns that collected and channeled the rainwater into huge tanks. Most of the caves are the Buddhist viharas meant for living, study, and meditation. The larger caves were chaityas, or halls for congregational worship, are lined with intricately carved Buddhist sculptures, reliefs and pillars, and contain rock-cut stupas for congregational worship.

The large number of viharas obviously prove a well-organized existence of Buddhist monks' establishment. Kanheri was a University center by the time the area was under the rule of the Maurayan and Kushan empires. It is credited with the largest number of cave excavations in a single hill and it thrived due to its proximity to ancient sea port towns like Sopara (Surparaka, the Supara of Greek; Subara of Arab writers; the ancient capital of northern Konkan), Kalyan a thriving port. It is generally believed that Buddhism first arrived in Aparantha (Western India) at Sopara which is very close to Kanheri. The caves were mentioned by early visitors like the Portuguese in the 16th century A.D. and other travellers and voyagers of Europe. Of the numerous donor inscriptions found here mention of ancient cities like Suparaka (Sopara); Nasika (Nasik); Chemuli (Chemula); Kalyana (Kalyan); Dhenukakata (Dhanyakataka, modern Amaravati in Guntur district of Andhra Pradesh) are found. The donors were from all class of the society, from the members of the royal families to the commoners.

The most prominent among the excavations at Kanheri is the Cave 3, which is a chaityagriha which was excavated during the period of Yajna Satakarni (c. 172-201 A.D.) On plan it consists of a large rectangular hall with an apsidal back, a verandah and a spacious court in front, the dimensions of the hall being 26.36 X 13.66 X 12.9 m (l x b x h). A row of 34 pillars divide the hall into a central nave and flanking aisles. The roof of the nave is barrel vaulted while of the aisles are flat.

There are evidences of provision of wooden rafters to the vaulted ceiling of nave which are gone now.

The pillars of the hall are not uniform and of different styles and shapes and devoid of symmetry.

A stupa is provided at the apse of the hall which measures 4.9 m in diameter and 6.7 m in height.

The façade of the hall is pierced by three doors with two groups of two couples, each group

carved in the oblong recesses between the doors. A huge chaitya window bereft of any ornamentation was provided for the passage of light.

The side walls are sculpted extensively with two massive images of standing Buddha in varada

mudra and other Bodhisattva images. These sculptures are of later additions and are datable to around 5th – 6th centuries A.D. Cave 1 is an unfinished chaityagrha, originally planned to have a double-storeyed verandah and a porch, apart from the pillared hall. The cave is dated to 5th – 6th centuries A.D. as the pillars with compressed cushion or amalaka top appears generally during this period. Cave 11 which is also known as ‘Darbar Hall’ consists of a huge hall with a front verandah.

The hall has a shrine on its back wall and cells on two sides. The floor of the hall two low stone benches resembling Cave 5 of Ellora.

Buddha in dharmacakrapravardana mudra adorns the shrine.

The cave has four inscriptions of different periods, one dated in Saka 775 (A.D. 853) of the reign of Rashtrakuta King Amoghavarsha and his feudatory the Silahara prince, Kapardin. The inscription records the donation of various gifts and funds provided for the purchase of books and repairs to the damages.Even if you are not a history buff, it is worth the visit for the

wonderful views that you get on the way to the top and from the top. It is an invigorating trip that one would not mind, whether one has interests in history, culture or just plain adventure.

Nearest Railway Station: Borivili on the Western sector.

Entrance fee to the Park: Rs20/-per head and Rs.50/-per vehicle.

Entrance to Kanheri caves: Rs.5/-per head.

Timings: 0730hrs to 1730hrs.

Buses available from Main entrance to the caves at regular intervals at Rs.30/-per head.

Of Waterfalls, Fog and Royalty

2009-08-11T10:00:00.059+05:30

In the southern range of Sahyadri hills, there is a quaint hill station at an altitude of 690m., called Amboli. Being on record as the wettest place in Maharashtra, with an average of nearly 750 centimetres (269 inches) of rainfall a year, mainly falling between June and October, it is shrouded in thick fog most of the time. This monsoon seemed an ideal time to explore this hazy heaven. While going from Mumbai we drove down the 519kms to Amboli via Kolhapur, Sankeshwar, Gadhinglaj and Ajra. The drive upto Sankeshwar on the Golden Quadrilateral was smooth but beyond that right upto Amboli it was a slightly bumpy ride on a two laned pockmarked road. The weather right through was beautiful, cloudy and cool. The last 5kms we drove through clouds – heavenly! We checked in at the MTDC resort ‘Green Valley’ which, like all MTDC resorts, is located at a lovely spot. It is about 500m from the main road, at the tip of a forested area. Had tea and went exploring around the resort. We discovered a deserted Botanical garden cum research centre. The empty playing grounds in the foggy deserted area looked eerie and straight out of a horror movie! Had an early dinner at MTDC which is managed by the famed Vithal Kamaths. The food was reasonably good and the service excellent. Next morning, we had an idli/dosa breakfast at Vithal Kamath’s restaurant which is just next door to the MTDC resort and moved on to Hiranyakeshi Temple, 6kms away, which is the point where the Hiranyakeshi river originates. An idyllic spot, with a small pond in front of the Hiranyakeshi temple that houses a Shivling, Ganapati idol and of course the Hiranyakeshi Devi idol. Next to this temple, there is an entrance to a cave which we did not dare explore as we were told it is not safe to do so in the monsoons when it becomes a safe harbour for a lot of creepy crawlies. On the way back to the main road, there is a Ragheshwar Ashram. There is a Swayambhu Ganesha temple, a Naag Devata temple, in addition to the ashram where Swami Ragheshwar meditated and attained Samadhi. This location is heavenly on the banks of the Hiranyakeshi river. After a spiritual awakened morning we headed to the most popular waterfall in Amboli, about 3kms on the way to Sawantwadi. There are steps carved alongside the waterfall to enable people go halfway up the waterfall. During monsoon, these steps are also under flowing water. Huge crowds are there enjoying their hydraulic massage under this waterfall all through the day. We went ahead on to Sawantwadi which is just about 30kms from Amboli. The road was beautiful right through. Headed straight to ‘Shilpgram’, managed by the Sawantwadi Municipal Council, which was advertised widely as the place to go to see the wonderful crafts of Sawantwadi. However, to our disappointment, we were told that only the restaurant was open and the crafts/craftsmen were there only during scheduled stops of the luxury train ‘Deccan Odyssey’ to cater to the tourists therein. But the watchman there gave us directions to ‘Kanekar Toys’ in ‘Chitra Alli’, just a couple of kms away, where we would find the best examples of wooden crafts for which Sawantwadi is famous. And indeed, the Woodcraft was amazing. There were vintage cars, touring motorcycles and vintage aircrafts all finely crafted from wood! All the shopping had made us hungry so we made our way back to ‘Shilpgram’ and had some delicious Malwani lunch in excellent ambience and served like royalty at a very humble price. Now it was time to visit the royals at the Sawantwadi Palace. You get a guided tour of the palace for a fee of Rs.25/- per head. You are taken to the Queen’s Durbar where the Royal Throne made of silver, and a couple of wild animals shot by the Queen are on display along with some sword and shield decorations. It is here that you can see and admire the craftsmanship of the artists who are busy making ‘Ganjifa’ cards – It had originated in Persia but this art is now practiced only in Sawantwadi. A set of these handmade cards numbering 120 cost Rs.3000/-. They also have a lot of other items like the palanquin and other vintage artefacts that were found in the erstwhile state of Sawantwadi. To wind up the Royal tour you will be taken to their ‘Crafts Sales’ Durbar where you can check out all the different handmade papier-mâché items and some items that were crafted by the Queen herself. The Queen still resides with her family in the adjoining palatial grounds. We exited the Palace and returned to Amboli. There were still hordes of people dancing in the rain at the waterfalls. Our next destination was Kavaleshet point which is about 6kms from Amboli. This is a place from where one can get spectacular views but unfortunately for us it was fogged out totally. Having reached there after driving about 2kms on a terrible road, we did not want to return before getting a glimpse of the heavenly views. We waited for about 30mins but were not favoured by the rain gods as the clouds just refused to clear out. Next on the list was the Nangartaas falls which is about 15kms on the road to Belgaum. The roar of the falls and the viewing facility reminds one of the great Jog falls. Not much of a crowd here as you can only view the falls and not frolic around. Having had our fill of waterfalls and living in the clouds we set back to Mumbai after a hearty breakfast at Vithal Kamath’s, not very early but around 1030am next morning. Our return trip was via Sawantwadi on NH17. Had a great lunch in ‘Alankar’ in Hathkhamba and reached Mumbai, back to earth, after a couple of days in the clouds. The route was scenic with lot of ups and downs on good roads, a distance of 545kms.

Getting there:
By Rail: Nearest Railway station - Sawantwadi (30kms) on Konkan Railway.
By Road: Mumbai –Kolhapur-Sankeshwar-Gadhinglaj-Ajra-Amboli – 519kms or
Mumbai-Panvel-Chiplun-Hathkhamba-Sawantwadi-Amboli – 545kms
Accomodation: MTDC’s Green Valley and other private hotels.

Mumbai Revealed

2009-07-27T16:27:00.009+05:30

Bang in the centre of Mumbai city, in the midst of all the urban chaos is a quiet little place where the history of Mumbai is revealed, right from the time it was known as Heptanesia (Greek for "cluster of seven islands") - the earliest documented name for the seven islands of Bombay (Mumbai) in India. The Greek geographer, Ptolemy mentioned the area in his geographic works. About 12kms from Bandra, in Byculla stands the Bhau Daji Lad Museum in the same compound as that of the Veer Jijamata Udyan (the zoo). They have a parking lot and the charge of Rs.20/- has to be paid at the entrance itself. At the entrance there is a beautiful clock tower. This museum is the oldest museum in Mumbai. Built in 1872, it was initially christened as Victoria & Albert Museum. It was renamed as the Bhau Daji Lad museum in 1975 to honour the dedication and vision of the man who ensured its establishment. The history of this Museum reveals that it was planned with an amount of Rupees 6,000, at the initiative of Dr. Bhau. The marvellous structure of building had lost its sheen with the times, but thanks to Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage, Mumbai (INTACH) it has been renovated with utmost care. In 1996, INTACH approached the Corporation with a proposal to resurrect the institution, and to set up a conservation laboratory. After a considerable period of negotiation and discussion, the Municipal Corporation decided to collaborate with INTACH and with the Jamnalal Bajaj Foundation, to restore the fortunes of the museum. The treasury comprises of more than 6000 valuable artefacts, including sculptures, pottery, coins, ivory work, paintings, etc. It also has special sections on the social and cultural life in India. On the lawn adjacent to the museum is the elephant that had given Elephanta caves its name. Apparently the British wanted to transport it to England, but in the process the crane dropped it and was broken into pieces. It was finally restored and placed at the entrance to the museum. It is flanked by cannons on either side making it look formidable. On the same lawns are a few statues of British Royalty and a beautifully designed light tower. Unfortunately photography is not allowed inside the museum hence cannot show you the beauty inside. The inside of the museum is exquisitely decorated by chandeliers and pillars. Do not miss the opportunity to visit this gem during your visit to Mumbai. It is an experience one would cherish. For a virtual tour visit http://www.bdlmuseum.org Getting there: The nearest railway station on the Central line is Byculla and Mahalaxmi on the Western line. It is well connected by BEST buses from all over Mumbai. Visiting hours are 1000hrs to 1730hrs. It is closed on Wednesdays and certain Public holidays. You can call them on 022-23731234. The entrance fees are Rs.10/- for adults and Rs.5/- for children between 5-15years. Children under 5yrs are admitted free.

Maharashtra Nature Park

2009-06-23T16:14:00.016+05:30

Last Saturday, decided to fulfil the long pending desire of visiting the Mahim Nature Park which is now known as Maharashtra Nature Park, near Dharavi.

Had heard and read a lot about this place being ‘the’ place for a nature lover. I love nature and I wanted a peek into this heaven. Conceived by the WWF-India in the late 1970s, an area of about 37 acres in the "H" Block of Bandra-Kurla Complex, which was earlier a garbage dump or land fill, was decided to be ecologically restored and developed as a Nature Park by MMRDA. It is located on Bandra-Sion Link Road at the Southern bank of Mithi River.

MNP plays host to a large number of butterflies and more than 80 species of birds.

Butterfly species commonly found in Mumbai are Swallowtail, Common Mormon, Blue Mormon, Tailed Jay, Lime Butterfly, Red Helen, Commander and Common Blue Bottle.

Also, as many as 200 tree species have been listed, many naturally planted by birds and insects!

Alongside the Park is, the Mahim Creek, which supports a lush evergreen mangrove forest.

This estuarine vegetation and the surrounding mud flats are home for migratory and aquatic birds that winter in the Indian subcontinent. Hence, the park has become a particularly popular spot for birdwatchers from mid-October all the way to February-March.

Though the waters of the Mithi river are very polluted, the park and the surrounding mangroves provide resting spots for thousands of birds.

Unfortunately my visit to the park was unseasonal. Yet, I was not disappointed.

Though, apart from being able to identify crows and sparrows, I enjoy bird music and was fortunate to be accompanied by a passionate birder, who has now got me hooked onto birding. He pointed out different species and taught me to associate the different bird calls with the species.

I indulged in capturing as many beauties as I could on my camera and thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

It sure made me realize how we tend to neglect the beauty in our backyard. I have now vowed to visit this park at least once in a couple of months and learn to spot and capture a different bird every visit.

Visitors are provided a guide cum interpretation facility on request, for which advance intimation is necessary.

Timings: Monday to Saturday between 0930 hrs. and 1800 hrs. (On Sundays and National

Public Holidays too, visits are possible, but with prior intimation.)

For individual visits the entrance fee is Rs.5/- per head.

Parking space available.

For group visit and further queries please contact the office of the

Dy. Director, MNPS, Maharashtra Nature Park Society,

Maharashtra Nature Park,

Near Dharavi Bus Depot,

Opp. P.M.G.P. Colony,

Dharavi, Mumbai 400 017.

( 2407 7641/9939. )

E-mail: mnps@bom7.vsnl.net.in

In passing....

2009-05-08T16:08:00.020+05:30

Had to visit Vittal which is about 40kms south of Mangalore, where I have a retreat to de-stress the urban chaos from my system. The process of stress reduction begins once you get on the road. Generally we always have an early morning start to avoid all the manic traffic jams that plague Mumbai. But this time, due to unavoidable circumstances could start only at half past noon. The city traffic did not disappoint. It took us an hour to navigate just 10kms and another hour to get onto the Mumbai Pune Expressway! It was precisely for this reason that I had decided to take the faster NH4 route which is part of the Golden Quadrilateral rather than the NH17 route via Goa which is more scenic and laid back.

Took me 7hrs to reach Kolhapur, a distance of 390kms.

Since I hate driving in the night, decided to spend the night in Kolhapur and next morning left for Shirali which is on the western coast. The drive all the way to Ankola via Hubli and Yellapur was a breeze. From Ankola onwards to Shirali it was the NH17 where the roads were not as broad as NH4 but smooth and very scenic.

Covered this distance of 450kms in 7hrs.

Shirali is a small village between Bhatkal and Murudeshwar. Shirali is important to Chitrapur Saraswats as it is the location of one of their primary maths. A maţha (also written math, matha or mutt) is a term for monastic and similar religious establishments of the Hindu, Buddhist and Jain traditions. A maţha is usually more formal, hierarchical, and rule-based than an ashram.

For more details on this math please visit http://www.chitrapurmath.net/our_maths/shirali.asp

Since Murudeshwar was just about 15kms away, went there to see the tallest Shiva idol in the world.

And now there is also the tallest gopuram in the world! Both are awe inspiring.

The original Shiva temple also has an amazing story to tell.

The origin of the name "Murudeshwara" dates to the time of Ramayana. The Hindu gods attained immortality and invincibility by worshipping a divine lingam called the AtmaLinga. The Lanka king Ravana wanted to attain immortality by obtaining the AtmaLinga. Since the AtmaLinga belonged to Lord Shiva, Ravana worshipped Shiva with devotion. Pleased by his prayers, Lord Shiva appeared before him and asked him what he wanted.

Ravana requests the AtmaLinga as his boon. Lord Shiva agreed to give him the boon with a condition that it should never be placed on the ground. If it was, it would get embedded there. Having obtained his boon, Ravana started back on his journey to Lanka.

Sage Narada, fearing that Ravana may become invincible, approached Lord Vishnu to retrieve it.

Ravana used to perform his rituals religiously in the evening. Lord Vishnu and Ganesha decided to exploit his devotion. As Ravana was nearing Gokarna, Lord Vishnu blotted the sun with his Sudarshana Chakra to make it look like evening. A Brahmin boy (Ganesha) approached Ravana, who requested him to hold the Aatmalinga until he performed his rituals.

Ravana returned to find the boy gone and the Aatmalinga on the ground. Lord Vishnu removed his Chakra, and it was daylight again. An angry Ravana tried to uproot the Aatmalinga. He threw away everything covering the Linga, including its cloth, to a placed called Mrideshwara in Kanduka-Giri (Kanduka Hill). Mrideshwara has been renamed to Murudeshwara.

This entire legend has been carved on the temple gopuram.

He called the Linga, Mahabala, as he was unable to lift it, and the Mahabaleshwara temple was built in Gokarna. A small hole in the temple permits devotees to have a glimpse of the top of the Aatmalinga.

Murudeshwar also has an amazingly beautiful beach which has been developed as a resort with water sports.

R.N.Shetty is the man who has developed this place and responsible for putting it on the tourist map. One cannot escape his name which appears at every nook and corner, on almost every establishment in Murudeshwar!

Having had a wonderful time here, it was time to move on to Udupi.

The Shri Krishna temple here also has a fascinating tale to narrate.

Whenever you enter a temple, you would have the idol facing you. But in this temple Shri Krishna has his back towards you. The reason? Simple. When the temple was built untouchables were not allowed inside the temple. There was this steadfast devotee called Kanaka Dasa, who, since he could not enter the temple, stood outside at the entrance to pray. But he was hounded away. He did the next best thing. He went to the rear of the temple and prayed there. Lord Krishna was touched by this man’s devotion and turned around to face him. And he has remained so ever since.

There is a small window built at the rear named ‘Kanaka Dasana Kindi’ (Kanaka Dasa’s window) from where one can get a darshan of the idol.

The musicians at the temple.

As it was almost brunch time, we went to the much spoken of restaurant ‘Mitra Samaj’ just outside the temple, and satiated our taste buds and hunger with some delicious dosas and wadas washed down by aromatic heady coffee.

We wanted to try out the famous ‘Gadbad’ a famous ice cream concoction at Diana restaurant. But unfortunately, due to some reason we were told that we would have to wait at least for half an hour to get a table. There were at least 6 vacant tables but ‘No Service’ placards were placed on them. Hence we skipped the ‘gadbad’ and moved on.

Had it in Puttur (10kms from Vittal) in a restaurant which too is famous for this concoction.

Spent a rejuvenating couple of days in Vittal and returned to Mumbai on the same route but with just a night halt at Kolhapur.

On our return trip we stopped for breakfast in Udupi for some wonderfully awesome Dosas and coffee in ‘Sunshine’ restaurant on the highway.

By the time we reached Dharwad we were ready for lunch and stopped at a ‘Rajasthani Dhaba’ for some oily fare. Having rested in Kolhapur for the night, started for Mumbai after a heavy breakfast of ‘Kanda Pohey’, had

burgers and fries with coke for lunch at McDonalds in Lonavala on the Mumbai Pune expressway, reached Mumbai ready to face the urban chaos till the next de-stressing trip!

Matheran

2009-03-18T12:03:00.009+05:30

If your idea of paradise is a place without motorised vehicles whizzing past, that pollute the atmosphere, then Matheran is where it is! A tiny hill station at 800m. above sea level is a mere 90kms from bustling organized chaos that’s Mumbai.

To reach the base station Neral (close to Karjat) you can take a train from either Mumbai or Pune or if you prefer to drive/ride, you can take the old Mumbai Pune highway and turn off at Chowk to reach via Karjat.

The drive upto Matheran from Neral is full of steep hairpin bends and if you are not confident of driving all the way up, you can park your car/bike in the many private parking lots there and take the mini train all the way up. However if you decide to drive up or take a taxi you can only drive upto ‘Dasturi Naka’ which is about 3kms from the main market area of Matheran. No motorised vehicles are allowed beyond Dasturi Naka where a huge parking lot is maintained by the Matheran Municipal Council for you to leave your rides behind.

From hereon you have options of riding into town ala Clint Eastwood and John Wayne or maybe ride the handpulled rickshaws or just walk the distance along the railway tracks to reach your preferred destination!

The walk should not take you more than an hour from Dasturi Naka. The train ride from Neral all the way to Matheran takes about two hours as it crawls along on its way up.

We drove up all the way to Dasturi Naka and found a nice parking spot where the car would rest for a couple of days. The drive up was thrilling and we crossed the railway tracks quite a few times. The entrance charges for the car is Rs.25/- and Rs.10/- per day for parking. The Matheran Municipal Council also charges a flat Rs.25/- per head for entering Matheran.

We were besieged by horsemen and rickshaw pullers as we got out of the car and when we said we preferred to walk up, there were porters who wanted to carry our backpacks. Bidding all of them goodbye we started our trek along the tracks to reach our hotel where we had made our booking. Took us about 45mins to reach the hotel which was a mere 10mins walk from Matheran Railway station.

The main market is around the Matheran railway station and this is the place to do all your shopping for leather goods and Chikki/fudge for which Matheran is famous.

Once in Matheran you again have a couple of options – go for long walks in any direction and you are bound to visit some ‘point’ or the other or refer to the map that is printed on the reverse of your entrance ticket to visit all the 38 points marked therein.

My research revealed that a max of 4points are worth the visit and while visiting them you will visit maybe 20 others by default! So, to begin our point visitation, decided to visit the Sunset point aka Porcupine Point. If you wish, you can take a minor detour and visit 5 other points (refer the map).

At this point we had a great entertainer who kept us entertained till the sun started its spectacular show.

The sunset spectacle lasted for a bare 10minutes after which it was back to the hotel. Fortunately the path is well lit and of course one just has to follow the crowds to get back.

Next morning, we visited the Alexander point (as it was close by) and then the Rambaug point (also considered to be a fine sunrise point) followed by Chowk Pt. (southernmost), One tree Hill point and then back for a hearty meal at the hotel.

The evening was left free for shopping around for the mandatory chikki/fudge and I picked up a leather belt which I think is a bargain (hopefully) – only time will tell.

For those interested in visiting some more points, you can do the Panorama point (northernmost) on your way back, if you have come up by road, as it is close to Dasturi Naka. On the way you can even do the Garbut point.

If you have more time at your disposal you may also wish to visit Charlotte lake. We did not, hence we missed out on it and got back on the tracks to Dasturi Naka, where again you will find guys clamouring for a chance to clean your car – of course for a small fee. The car would be inevitably covered with a layer of red mud and bird droppings so you may wish to hire the services of these fine young lads to drive back home in a clean car!

Dive Agar

2008-12-29T19:04:00.016+05:30

On the vast coastline of Maharashtra there lies this little gem – Dive Agar. A tiny hamlet that is on the verge of a tourist boom due to the saturation of neighbouring ‘awesome’ tourist spots like Alibag and Janjira Murud. From Mumbai it will take you about five hours of leisurely driving with stopovers. The distance is just 195kms and the roads are also lovely. You have to travel on the NH17 – the Mumbai Goa highway upto Mangaon and then take a diversion to Shrivardhan and Harihareshwar. On this road you will come across a village called Mhasla from where this spot of heaven is just 16kms. There are two decent restaurants with clean washrooms between Mumbai and Mangaon. In Karnala that is 10kms from Panvel, is the ‘Vittal Kamaths’ multi cuisine restaurant and in Kolad 2okms before Mangaon is ‘Mai Bhavani’ an ethnic Maharashtrian restaurant which has a ‘Tulzapur Bhavani’ temple too! Dive Agar has become famous for its ‘Suvarna Ganesha’. On 17thNov97, Draupadi Dharma Patil, while digging in her betel nut farm, found a copper box which contained a Gold mask of Ganesha. On discovery of this treasure, she went and told her neighbours and the police about the same. Then as per law a ‘panchanama’ was carried out and the Gold Ganesha mask was taken over by the local governing council. It was then decided to place it in the existing Ganesha temple in the village for worship and display. Unfortunately, the ‘finder’ is not the ‘keeper’ in this case and all that she has received until now are just vacuous promises from the governing and the temple authorities. Who said honesty pays?! However, she has set up a small temple at the place where she had found it and people who visit there do donate towards her effort. Then there is another temple being built called the ‘Rupnarayan mandir’. It is still under construction behind which there is an old temple called the ‘Sundernarayan Mandir’ of 1962 vintage from where the idol is removed and placed in the new ‘Rupnarayan Mandir’. Now that one has taken care of ones spiritual needs, one can indulge. The beach is virginal, clean and beautiful. The sunset is awesome. There are tiny cottages all along the street and most if not all will offer you a hearty meal at very reasonable prices. However one has to inform them in advance or be prepared to wait for a while as the food is cooked on order. Did not see any liquor shop around and when we asked for beer, were told that it has to be procured from ‘Borli’ another village about 10kms away, so go stocked with your wines if you so wish. The sea food, especially ‘Surmai’ is delicious and you will get an option of either a Chicken Thali or a Fish Thali in the restaurants apart from the vegetarian Thali. For dessert, you can indulge in the ‘Ukdiche Modak’ – the steamed dumpling stuffed with grated coconut and jaggery. The use of oil is minimal but the coconut is used generously in all preparations. As far as accommodation is concerned, one can stay in any of the homestay cottages or in regular hotels of which there are just about three in all of Dive Agar. One is the MTDC leased ‘Exotica’ and then there is the popular mid range ‘Prathamesh’ where we stayed or ’Pinakin’ also a mid range hotel. Exotica is the only one that is bang on the beach while the other two are about a 10min walk away. Like all the villages in Maharashtra there is the ‘Shivaji Chowk’ which is the focal point of the village.

If you are the type who wants to relax and enjoy a bit of solitude while taking long walks on the beach, this is the place to go. But please go soon before it is trashed by noisy tourists.

Ellora Caves

2008-12-18T11:49:00.014+05:30

The parking lot at Ellora is right in front of the largest single monolithic excavation in the world, the great Kailasa (Cave 16). The Great Kailasa is attributed to Krishna I (c. 757-83 A.D.), the successor and uncle of Dantidurga. A copper plate grant from Baroda of the period of Karka II (c. 812-13 A.D.) speaks about the greatness of this edifice. Ellora represents one of the largest rock-hewn monastic-temple complexes in the entire world, that too of three different religions - Buddhism, Brahmanism and Jainism. These caves are hewn out of the volcanic basaltic formation of Maharashtra, known as ‘Deccan Trap’, the term trap being of Scandinavian origin representing the step like formation of the volcanic deposits. The rock formation, on weathering has given rise to the appearance of terraces with flat summits. One can also have a glimpse of the channels (near Cave 32) through which the volcanic lava once flowed. These channels, due to overheating, have a characteristic brownish red colour. The basaltic rock is ideal for rock hewing, as it is soft during the initial excavation and hardens on exposure to environment. This induced the religious followers of various creeds to establish their settlements in them. The Ellora caves are datable from circa 6th - 7th century A.D. to 11th - 12th century A.D. There are nearly 100 caves of which 34 caves are popular and visited by many tourists. Caves 1 to 12 are Buddhist; Caves 13 to 29 are Brahmanical and Caves 30 to 34 are Jaina. Thus, we have the greatest religious conglomeration at a single place, signifying the religious tolerance and solidarity of different faiths. The caves are excavated in the scarp of a large plateau, running in a north-south direction for nearly 2 km, the scarp being in the form of a semi-circle, the Buddhist group at the right arc on the south, while the Jaina group at the left arc on the north and the Brahmanical group at the centre. A tourist can plan the visit of these caves according to the time available and depending upon the interest in ancient art. If a visitor has at his disposal three to four hours, then Cave nos. 10 (Visvakarma Cave), 16 (Kailasa), 21 (Ramesvara) and 32 & 34 (Jaina group of caves) should not be missed and one can have a glimpse of the representative art of Buddhism, Brahmanism and Jainism. If a visitor has an entire day at his disposal, then Cave nos. 2, 5, 10 & 12 of the Buddhist group; Cave nos. 14, 15, 16, 21 & 29 of the Brahmanical group and Caves 32 to 34 of the Jaina group should be visited. All this valuable information about the caves has been gleaned from the Archaeological Survey of India’s website We had barely a couple of hours, hence just reveled in the beauty of Cave 16 and visited Caves 10 & 12. The sunset from Ellora is also worth a view and we spent some time gazing at the beautiful sight. On return to the parking lot, we were surprised to see a bunch of langurs being fed peanuts by tourists. We were told by the peanut vendors that these monkeys are harmless and will wait patiently for the visitors to feed them. You buy a packet of peanuts worth Rs.5/- and empty them out on your palm and hold it out to the langur. The langur will then amble towards you, hold your hand and pick out the peanut with the other hand and eat! So friendly! Our only regret was we could not see more of Ellora and missed out on the other two major attractions of Aurangabad – the Daulatabad Fort and Paanchakki. Hopefully will do that some other time. Some important information about Ellora Caves Open from sunrise to sunset Closed on Tuesday Entrance Fee: Citizens of India and visitors of SAARC (Bangladesh, Nepal, Bhutan, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Maldives and Afghanistan) and BIMSTEC Countries (Bangladesh, Nepal, Bhutan, Sri Lanka, Thailand and Myanmar) - Rs. 10 per head. Others: US $ 5 or Indian Rs. 250/- per head (children up to 15 years free)

Ajanta caves

2008-12-04T12:47:00.009+05:30

Though we had planned to leave from the MTDC resort in Aurangabad by 0700hrs for Ajanta caves, we could leave only around 0830hrs, thanks to their laid-back restaurant service. It took us two and a half hours to cover the 105kms to Ajanta. The roads and signage all the way were pretty good. Four kms from the caves there is a huge parking lot where all vehicles have to be parked. From hereon you have to use the environment friendly buses run by the authorities. The charges for the shuttle service are Rs7/- one way by non-aircon and Rs.15/- one way by the aircon buses.

The distance between the parking lot and the Bus Bay is filled with stalls selling souvenirs, snacks and bottled water. At the base of the caves too, there is an MTDC restaurant, just after you purchase the entrance tickets. Since the usage of flash for photography in the caves is prohibited, they have installed fibre optic lights, which will be switched on for you on production of a Rs.5/- ticket that has to be purchased at the time of purchasing entrance tickets. The caves attained the name from a nearby village named Ajanta. Apparently, these caves were discovered by an Army Officer in the Madras Regiment of the British Army in 1819 during one of his hunting expeditions. The official guide’s charges are Rs.600/- (non negotiable) or you can avail the services of the freelancers at the door of every cave who will do the job per cave (Rs.20/- to Rs.50/-) or all caves for Rs.300/-. All rates negotiable.

The caves, famous for its murals, are the finest surviving examples of Indian art, particularly painting. They were excavated (circa. 2nd century B.C. to 6th century A.D.) in the shape of a horseshoe, overlooking a narrow stream known as Waghora and each cave was connected to the stream by a flight of steps, which are now almost obliterated.

Totally, 30 excavations were hewn out of rock including an unfinished one. The earliest excavations belong to the Hinayana phase of Buddhism. These caves are datable to the pre-Christian era, the earliest among them being Cave 10 dating from the second century B.C.

The object of worship is a stupa and these caves exhibit the imitation of wooden construction to the extent that the rafters and beams are also sculpted even though they are non-functional.

The world famous paintings at Ajanta fall into two broad phases. The earliest, in cave nos. 9 & 10, are datable to second century B.C. The second phase of paintings started around 5th – 6th centuries A.D. and continued for the next two centuries. These exemplary paintings of the Vakataka period can be seen in cave nos. 1, 2, 16 and 17. The main theme of the paintings is the depiction of various Jataka stories, different incidents associated with the life of Buddha, and the contemporary events and social life.

The ceiling decoration invariably consists of decorative patterns, geometrical as well as floral. The paintings were executed after the elaborate preparation of the rock surface by chiseling grooves so that the layer applied over it could be held in an effective manner. The chief binding material used here was glue. These paintings are not frescoes as they have been painted with the aid of a binding agent, whereas in frescoes, the paintings are executed while the lime wash is still wet and acts as an intrinsic binding agent. It took us about three hours to explore Ajanta so on return near the parking lot, we fortified ourselves with some hot ‘Puri Bhaaji’ and ‘Aloo Parathas’ at one of the ‘fast food stalls’.

Grishneshwar

2008-11-14T16:17:00.010+05:30

Grishneshwar Temple is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas and a must visit for all Lord Shiva devotees. It is located just ½ km from Ellora Caves and has some interesting legends. One of them is about how, while playing chess, Lord Shiva lost to Parvati and on a whim, he went south to the forest of Kamyavana. Parvati followed and wooed him resulting in the two deciding to stay there for a few days.

One day Parvati was thirsty and there was no water nearby so Shiva pierced the earth with his trident and created a lake. This lake came to be known as Shivalay. The legend continues with Parvati preparing sindur. Sindur is a paste made from vermilion powder, which married women apply in the hair parting on their forehead, to indicate that they are married. As Parvati was rubbing the vermilion powder and water with her thumb, the vermilion turned into a lingam and a great light appeared in it. Parvati installed the lingam there and called it Grishneshwar, because it was created by “grishna” or friction of her thumb.

Another legend is from Shivapurana, which narrates a tale about a Brahmin named Sudharm and his wife Sudeha who lived in Devagiri. They lived happily but for the fact that they were childless. Sudeha blamed herself for this and to ensure that her husband’s lineage continued, she got her sister Ghushma married to Sudharm. She also instructed Ghushma to make 101 lingams, worship them at Grishneshwar and then immerse them in the Shivalay Lake. Soon, with the blessings of Shiva, a boy was born to Ghushma after which Sudeha felt neglected, resulting in jealousy and a murder most foul. She killed Ghushma’s son and threw him in the lake. When his wife awoke, she saw that instead of her husband there was a blood stained sheet and in a panic went and informed Ghushma, her mother in law, who was busy praying and so did not respond and continued with her daily rituals. When she went to immerse the lingams, she saw her son emerge from the lake. Then Shiva appeared before her and told her that Sudeha had killed her son. Ghushma requested Shiva to forgive her sister. Pleased with her devotion and generosity, Shiva offered her a boon. Ghushma requested Shiva to eternally reside there so that she could worship him up close. Shiva agreed and decreed that the shrine be named Ghushmeshwar. Hence, the temple is known by both the names ‘Grishneshwar’ and ‘Ghushmeshwar’.

The temple looks as if it is built with redstone. As per the ‘Archaeological Survey of India’, quote, “The Ellora caves are hewn out of the volcanic basaltic formation of Maharashtra, known as ‘Deccan Trap’, the term trap being of Scandinavian origin representing the step like formation of the volcanic deposits. These channels, due to overheating, have a characteristic brownish red colour. Similar rock was used in the construction of the Grishneshwar Temple nearby and also utilised for the flooring of the pathways at Bibi-ka-Maqbara.” Unquote.

There are carvings all over the temple and the pillars within.

To enter the sanctum sanctorum the males have to be topless. Photography in the sanctum is prohibited.

The langurs have a free run outside the temple. Was fun watching and clicking them.

The Grishneshwar temple was re-constructed by Maloji Raje Bhosale of Verul, (grandfather of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj) in the 16th century. His Samadhi is outside the temple.

Temple Timings Open 5.30 am - 9.30 pm

During Shravan (Aug-Sep): 3 am - 11 pm

Bibi-ka-Maqbara

2008-11-04T10:04:00.012+05:30

Taj Mahal, the pinnacle of Mughal architecture, was built by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan (1628-1658), in the memory of his queen Arjumand Bano Begum. Inspired by this wonder, Emperor Shah Jahan’s grandson Prince Azam Shah, built a similar mausoleum near Aurangabad, in memory of his mother, between 1651 and 1661 A.D.

Bibi-ka-maqbara, as it is called, is a beautiful mausoleum of Rabia-ul-Daurani alias Dilras Banu Begum, the wife of the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb (1658-1707 A.D.). An inscription on the main entrance door states that it was designed and erected by Ata-ullah, an architect and Hanspat Rai, an engineer. Though Azam Shah wanted to construct the monument wholly in marble, it was not to be as his father Aurangzeb was not in favor of building a monument as lavish as the Taj and even blocked the transportation of marble that was being procured from the mines near Jaipur. Somehow, Azam Shah prevailed upon his father who eventually relented and ultimately the "Taj of Deccan" was constructed, though a poor imitation, hence also known as the poor man’s Taj!

It is built on a high square platform with four minarets at its corners, and is encased with marble up to the dado level. Above the dado level, it is constructed of basaltic trap up to the base of dome, which is built of marble. A fine plaster covers the basaltic trap, given a fine polished finish, and adorned with fine stucco decorations.

The mortal remains of Rabia-ul-Daurani are placed below the ground level surrounded by an octagonal marble screen with exquisite designs, which can be approached by descending a flight of steps. The mausoleum is crowned by a dome pierced with trellis works and accompanying panels decorated with floral designs.

One enters the mausoleum through the main entrance gate on its south, which has excellent foliage designs on brass plates that cover the wooden doors. A screened pathway that leads to the mausoleum from the entrance has a series of fountains at its centre, which adds to the serene ambiance. As you approach the monument, you notice that there is only one mosque on the main plinth of the Maqbara as against the two mosques on either side of the Taj, giving it symmetry. Apparently, this mosque was a later addition. Legend has it that in 1803, Nizam Sikander Jahan was so captivated by the Maqbara that when Aurangabad and the Marathwada area were annexed to his kingdom he had planned to shift the Maqbara to his capital, Hyderabad. He even ordered the dismantling of the monument, slab by slab, to facilitate the smooth transfer. But then, he had a premonition of some disaster, which would befall him, were he to harm the existing structure. Hence, he stopped the work and got the mosque built as penance. According to the "Tawarikh Namah" of Ghulam Mustafa, the cost of construction of the mausoleum was Rs.6,68,203-7 (Rupees Six Lakh, Sixty Eight Thousand, Two Hundred and Three & Seven Annas) in 1651-1661 A.D. It is now a protected monument under The Archaeological Survey of India and a must see when in Aurangabad and is situated just around five kms from the city. Aurangabad is around 375kms from Mumbai.

PANCHAVATI and some....

2008-08-05T19:25:00.007+05:30

The name is derived from the Sanskrit pañca (five) vata (Banyan Tree). This area of five Banyan trees is situated on the banks of River Godavari in Nasik, Maharashtra, India. The Ramayana has a huge presence here as every other stone and pond here has a tale from the great epic to narrate since Rama, along with his wife Sita and brother Laxman, stayed in Panchavati during their Vanwasa (exile) period. There is also a cave here called Sita Gumpha where they worshipped Lord Shiva during their exile.The ancient Shivalinga still exists in the small temple in the cave and is visited by devotees. Lakshmana is supposed to have cut off Surpanakha's nose (nasika) at Panchavati. The famous Laxman Rekha is located in Panchavati about a kilometre away from Sita Gumpha. It was from here that Ravana abducted Goddess Sita. Today this area is a major pilgrimage and tourist attraction. Panchavati is a pilgrims' and tourists' destination for various reasons. My recent visit was very personal - to immerse the ashes of my beloved father, who passed away after leading a very fruitful life of eighty eight years. It is believed that if the ashes of the deceased are immersed in the 'Ram Kund', the soul attains nirvana. Ramkund is one of the most important places in Panchavati.It is so called because Lord Rama is believed to have bathed there. The ashes (Asthi) immersed in this kund or pond, are immediately absorbed in the water. A dip in this sacred kund is also considered very holy. Adjacent to this is the Gandhi Lake in which there is a white marble monument, in memory of Mahatma Gandhi. His 'Asthi' were immersed in Ramkund too. Situated in Panchavati area, on the bank of river Godavari is the Naroshankar Temple of Rameshwar built by Naroshankar Rajebahaddur in 1747. This temple houses a famous bell , called 'Naroshankar'. This bell is a memorial to celebrate the victory over the Portuguese by the Maratha Ruler Bajirao Peshwa's younger brother Chimaji Appa who won the fort of Vasai from the Portuguese. Naroshankar Rajebahaddur played a critical role in this war. After winning the fort over, the Vasai Portuguese Church bell was removed and taken in a procession on elephant back till Nashik with great celebration and offered to Naroshankar as a medal - an award for his bravery. It is made of bronze, and six feet in diameter. The year engraved on it is 1921. The toll of the bell is said to be heard up to about 5 kilometers. This bell and its ringing is so famous that there is a title in Marathi "Naroshankarachi ghanta" which is given to a woman talking loudly! Panchavati is a good side trip while you visit Nasik. You would not require more than a couple of hours to explore Panchavati so plan your trip accordingly. There are plenty of temples around to worship in, depending on ones beliefs. For more information on all the temples in and around Panchavati, and there are plenty, Click here Or you may just soak in the religious ambience, walk around and amuse yourself at the various con games being played out by the so called priests making a living exploiting the religious sentiments of the pilgrims. We were swarmed by these on arrival and given a list of our sins that could be washed away here by various rituals! The minute they sighted the ashes urn, they listed out different rites and rituals which once performed, there would be no need ever to even think of performing a ritual for the deceased as all their souls would have acquired 'moksha' or freed from the cycle of rebirth! Then you have the fruit/meal vendors who at a price would distribute fruits and or meals to the poor. They too have rates to suit every pocket depending on the type of charity that you wish to indulge in starting from Rs.100/- which would be eight dozen bananas distributed among those lining the steps for handouts. If you intend spending a day there, for whatever reasons, you would be well advised to carry packed lunch/snacks and bottled water. There are plenty of stalls selling snacks and stuff but I did not see any place worth having a bite out there. This could possibly be because nobody goes there to eat or sleep. Whoever that goes there goes with a definite purpose and leaves the minute it is over. Mostly it is people who go there to perform the last rites/rituals of immersing the ashes of ones' beloved. The others are those who wish to experience Ramayana. Panchavati is at a distance of about 5kms from Nasik and around 190kms from Mumbai. We set out from Mumbai at 0630 and reached Panchavati at 1100hrs. The roads were mostly good except on the ghats which were potholed and bad, although one must admit that the authorities had started patching up the bad roads. There were plenty of waterfalls of various sizes along the way that one could stop and revel in. The Mumbai Nasik route during the monsoons is very picturesque with rolling greens and as you traverse through the Kasara ghats you are actually driving through dense clouds! The visibility on certain stretches is just about 50metres! It is an enthralling sight to watch all vehicles crawling with their hazard lights blinking. The signage all along is very good and does not leave you wondering at any crossroads. Enroute, along the highway, there are a couple of good places to eat like 'Bhagat Tarachand' which serves up wholesome vegetarian food at reasonable prices and 'Manas' which is good for both vegetarians and the non vegetarians too. Manas has a bar but Bhagat Tarachand does not. Bhagat Tarachand is near Vashind, closer to Mumbai while Manas is in Igatpuri, closer to Nasik. Manas is a motel while Bhagat Tarachand is only a restaurant. So take your pick! And then of course once you reach Nasik the choices are limitless. Once in Nasik, you can also plan a visit to Shirdi and Trimbakeshwar. Shirdi is famous for its 'Sai Baba' and Trimbakeshwar for its 'swayambhu' (naturally occurring) Shiva temple which is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas, a must visit for all Lord Shiva devotees. There is a belief that anybody who visits Trimbakeshwar attains salvation. It is considered to be the holiest place to perform Shraddha ceremony as mentioned in 'Nirnaya Sindhu' - a religious book of Hindus. Non Hindus are not allowed inside the temple but one can get a clear view from outside. Trimbakeshwar is about thirty kilometers west of Nasik, and if you are going from Mumbai, you have the diversion before reaching Nasik. So, you can either do it on your way to Nasik or Panchavati or on your way back to Mumbai. About 8km south of Nasik, off the Mumbai Nasik highway, is a group of 24 rock cut Hinayana Buddhist caves dating from around the 1st century BC. They are know as 'Pandav Leni' or the 'Pandavas' caves. The Pandavas are supposed to have spent some time there. Some of them have excellent carvings on the doorways. Of them, caves 3, 10 and 18 are noteworthy. Cave 3 and cave 10 are viharas with some interesting sculptures. There is a carved Buddha in Cave 10. Cave 18 is a Chaitya, well sculptured with an elaborate facade which is particularly noteworthy. Shirdi is at a distance of about seventy five kilometers from Nasik. Shirdi is famous for 'Sai Baba'. Saibaba is believed to have arrived at the village of Shirdi when he was about sixteen years old. He took up residence in a Khandoba temple, where a villager (Mahalsapathi) at worship first called him Sai ("saint"). Bearing an extremely simple and ascetic life, Sai Baba lived in the village as a mendicant monk. His inherent charisma soon began attracting followers. He has been attributed numerous miracles which still live expanding the list of his devotees. Presently, Shirdi is almost a twin city of Nasik and offers almost all if not more facilities available in Nasik. All these places are easily accessible from Mumbai which is very well connected to the world by air, rail, sea and road. Due to this the opportunities for the type of visits from Mumbai are plenty. You could plan on a day trip, wherein you just visit Shirdi or Panchavati. Or maybe an overnighter at Nasik which would be the base from where you can visit Trimbakeshwar and Panchavati one day and Shirdi and Pandav Leni the next, on the way back to Mumbai. Or maybe a two nighter wherein you could also spend a night at the beautiful hill station Bhandardara which is at a distance of about eighty kilometers from Nasik off the Nasik Mumbai highway. All These places are tourist oriented and hence offer accomodation and cuisine to suit all pockets and palates. For more on Bhandardara Click here To read about Trimbakeshwar Click here

Travel - A pilgrimage... Concluding Part 4 (Vittal-Hassan-Shravan Belagola-Halebid-Belur-Bangalore-Mumbai)

2008-02-28T11:05:00.029+05:30

The time had come now to embark upon the most dreaded part of the journey. From Vittal had to reach Hassan to visit Shravan Belagola, Belur and Halebid. There were two routes to do so. One was via Charmadi Ghats and the other via Shiradi Ghats and both the Ghat roads were reputed to be a challenge for offroaders, so it was a matter of choosing between the devil and the deep sea. After a lot of consultation and advice received on various auto and travel forums, decided on the route via Shiradi Ghats. We left Vittal in the afternoon at 1430hrs, after attending an important religious function in the temple that was followed by a sumptuous prasadam lunch. The road, right upto the Shiradi Ghats, though two laned was good. Had to crawl all along the Shiradi Ghats after which again the road was good right upto Hassan. Took us four hours to cover 151kms and checked in the Hotel Sri Krishna at 1900hrs. This Hotel is clean and convenient. Next morning we decided to visit Shravan Belagola before visiting Belur and Halebid to ensure that we did not have to climb up the steps in the hot sun. We checked out at 0815hrs after an ‘Idli Vada’ breakfast in the in-house restaurant, got on to the Mangalore Bangalore highway, and at Chanarayapatna took a right to reach Shravan Belagola at 0900hrs – a distance of 50kms.

The signage throughout is good. Parking at the designated parking lot costs Rs.20/- and the police ensure that everyone parks in the right place, thankfully. Everything is very organized out there. Since it has a religious significance, one has to climb it barefoot. At the base there is a stall with attendants where, for a small price, you can leave your footwear against a token and can climb assured that it is safe. There are people selling socks too if you wish to protect your feet. Next to it are clean pay and pee toilets and areas to wash your feet before and after the climb.

It took us about 30minutes to climb up the 600+ steps to reach the top. You may hire the services of palanquin bearers who will cart you all the way to the top for a nominal fee.

At the top we were breathless as a result of the climb and the panoramic views apart from the giant monolith towering over us.

Shravan Belagola is an important Jain pilgrimage center. Incidentally, in the Kannada language, Bel means white and kola means pond.

The white pond that is alluded to is possibly the pretty pond at the bottom of the hill. The giant statue of Gomateshwara (17meters high) is situated on the summit of Indragiri hill.

It was carved out of a single block of stone sculpted by Aristanemi in 981 AD and Chamundaraya, a General and minister of the Ganga King Rachamalla installed it in 983 AD. Regarded as one of the largest monolithic statues in the world, it symbolizes renunciation, self-control, and subjugation of ego as the primary steps towards salvation. The naked Digambara form of Bahubali represents complete victory over earthly desires. The statue came to be known as Gomateshwara, which in local parlance means ‘a handsome young man’.

The sheer size of the statue does not permit any devotee to bathe the entire Gomateshwara statue everyday hence only the feet are washed. However, every 10 to 15 years, when there is a favorable conjunction of the stars and planets, the entire statue is bathed in milk, honey and herbs and is called Mahamastakabhisheka.

The monolith stands in a compound surrounded by a colonnade sheltering additional Tirthankara images.

The sacred Chandragiri hill with Chamundaraya Basadi with manastambha on the top. The photograph is taken from the Indragiri hill on which the Gommateshwar idol stands. After taking in all the views and blessings, we raced down in 15minutes and moved back towards Hassan to go to Halebid. Reached Halebid, 81kms away in 90minutes, at 1230hrs. Halebid was the capital of the Hoysalas until it was destroyed in the early 14th century after attacks by the Delhi Sultanate.

The Hoysaleshwara temple survived the pillage but it somehow managed to remain incomplete even after 87 years of uninterrupted construction.

The temple is dedicated to Shiva and has two enormous Nandi bulls at the entrance.

The intricate architecture of ancient times and the meticulous craftsmanship is nothing short of Divine.

There are carvings inside, outside and on the roof of the temples!

There are plenty of stories depicted on the panels all round the temple and are interpreted by local guides to suit the interests of their clients! After spending an hour there and talking to some research students who were busy replicating the art and the architecture, we moved on to Belur which is just 23kms away. The road connecting Belur to Halebid is single laned and it took us 30minutes to cover the distance. The parking fees at Belur and Halebid are Rs.30/- each. Since both are temple premises, footwear is not allowed, and if you reach there in the afternoon socks are advisable as the stone tends to get extremely hot in the afternoons. Bittiga, the fourth and mightiest monarch of the Hoysala dynasty, was converted from the Jain faith to the Vaishnava faith by the sage Ramanuja. The king changed his name to Vishnuvardhana and built temples with great vigor and dedication. In order to commemorate his victory over the Cholas in the battle of Talkad, he built Belur Temple in 1117 A.D. His queen Shantala, though a Jain by faith, was noted for catholicity of her religious outlooks.

She was a well-known dancer and on one of the temple's brackets her dancing pose has been sculptured in the most ornate and in exuberant style. The most outstanding temple in Belur is the Chenakeshava (handsome Keshava), a monumental edifice that took 103 years to build, possibly because of the intricate details and the myriads of friezes and sculptures that embellish the temple walls.

It is about one hundred feet high and has a magnificent gateway tower (gopuram), built in Dravidian style.

The main temple, surrounded by a group of subsidiary shrines, stands in the center of a rectangular, paved courtyard along the perimeter of which are ranges of cells fronted by a pillared veranda. The main temple has a pillared hall (navaranga). The extensive hall is supported by forty-six pillars, each of a different design.

The Narasimha pillar it seems could be rotated at will, but not now. :)

The Hoysala kingdom that flourished in these parts of ancient India between the 11th and 14th centuries is widely acknowledged as the 'crowning glory' in Indian architecture. After reveling in the splendid historic art ambience for an hour, we had to return to the present to satiate our hunger at Mayura restaurant outside the complex. Simple, airy and clean. Left Belur at 1530hrs and reached Malleshwaram in Bangalore at 1900, a distance of 220kms. Enjoyed our stay in my in-laws house for a few days and was privileged to be driven around and then regrettably had to end the vacation. While in Bangalore visited the HAL (Hindustan Aeronautics Limited) Museum. Somehow it gave the impression that it was more of a botanical garden than a museum for aircrafts. They had proudly displayed the trophies that they had won in horticulture and of course the flowers were beautiful.

Unfortunately, the aircrafts were left dusty and forgotten.

The drive back to Mumbai with an overnight halt at Belgaum was uneventful but pleasant.

Back to the grind.

Travel - A pilgrimage.... Part 3 (Agumbe-Sringeri-Horanadu-Vittal)

2008-02-18T11:49:00.018+05:30

Was looking forward to some real nice mountain drives and sure enough was not disappointed as we set out for Sringeri from Agumbe. The weather had been consistently pleasant and carried on being lovely all the way.

The road from Agumbe to Sringeri, winding through the Ghats was pretty good and enjoyable. Covered the distance of 30kms in 45minutes. A huge parking lot awaited us at Sringeri. There were plenty of Lord Ayappa devotees on their pilgrimage traveling in vehicles of varied sizes. They could be easily identified as all of them were dressed in black and the vehicles were heavily garlanded. The Jagadguru Shankaracharya Mahasamsthanam, Dakshinamnaya Sri Sharada Peetham, Sringeri, is the first and foremost of the four Peethams established by the renowned 8th century philosopher saint Sri Adi Shankara, the principal exponent of Advaita (non-dualism). The Divinity of Knowledge, Goddess Sharada, installed at Sringeri by Sri Adi Shankara, graces the Peetham as the presiding deity. According to legend, Adi Shankaracharya is said to have selected the site as the place to stay and teach his disciples, because when he was walking by the Tunga River, he saw a cobra with a raised hood, providing shelter from the hot sun, to a frog about to spawn. Impressed with the place where natural enemies had gone beyond their instincts, he stayed here for twelve years.

The Sharada temple, dedicated to the Goddess of learning and wisdom, has grown from a simple shrine dating to the time of Adi Shankaracharya. In the fourteenth century, Vidyaranya is said to have replaced the old sandalwood image with a stone and gold image. The temple structure itself continued to be made of wood until the early 20th century. After an unexpected fire that damaged the structure, the current structure was built in the traditional south Indian (Dravidian) style of temple architecture. The Vidyashankara temple was built in commemoration of the pontiff Vidyashankara, around 1357-58 A.D. It was built by Vidyaranya, patron saint of Harihara and Bukka, the brothers who founded the Vijayanagara Empire. The niches in the temple have a number of sculptures from Hindu, Buddhist and Jain mythologies. The temple combines Hoysala and Vijayanagara architectural features. This temple also features 61 images carved in bas-relief, of various scenes from the puranas.

Buddha is depicted as one of the incarnations of Vishnu here. The main temple hall features 12 pillars designated for the 12 signs of the zodiac and the windows and doors along the temple walls are arranged in such a way that the sun's rays fall on each of them, in the order of the solar months. The 'garbha-griha' has a linga called Vidyashankara installed in the memory of Guru Vidyatheertha.

At the entrance of the temple complex, on the left there is this beautiful wooden structure. The details of this ‘heritage structure’ are there on a board.

The temple administration has built guesthouses for devotees who wish to stay. There are many private lodges also available in the vicinity. We had many miles to go and Horanadu to visit, so off we went, on the scenic route flanked by tea and coffee estates on either side all the way to Hornadu.

Took us almost two hours to complete the 80kms journey as we stopped often on the way to admire and capture the beautiful sights. Sri Annapoorneshwari Temple is an ancient and revered shrine located in the picturesque surroundings of Horanadu. Everyone who visits the Horanadu Annapoorna temple is provided with a vegetarian meal irrespective of his or her religion, caste or creed. Before entering the temple to pay your respects to the Goddess, the temple authorities exhort you to have lunch! But seeing that there were not many people in the queue for darshan we decided to skip lunch and visit the Goddess first. Male visitors to the temple have to remove their shirts and preferably cover their shoulders with a towel or a shawl as a symbol of respect and humility. The main deity of Annapoorna is made of gold and looks beautiful. It is said that a person who seeks the goddess' blessings would never have any scarcity for food in life. It is also believed that Lord Shiva was once cursed and that this curse was reversed when the Lord visited Goddess Annapoorna and sought her blessings. Feeling blessed, we made our way to our car to move on to Vittal, where we would stay for a couple of nights in our house. On the way, we passed Kudremukh – the township for the iron ore miners. And on the winding roads of the Western Ghats via Karkala and Mudbidri (been there done that) we cruised in the cool climes to reach Vittal at 1700hrs, covering a distance of 140kms in three hours. Vittal is a small town in the Puttur Taluka of South Kanara district of Karnataka. There is a beautiful temple dedicated to Lord Ananteshwar where people from far and near come to seek blessings. There is also a ‘Naag Katte’ outside the temple, which is worshipped daily. Our stay in Vittal was blessed with lovely weather and views so lovely that words cannot possibly justify.

While in Vittal I also fulfilled an old desire of visiting the village ‘Ammembal’ from which we derive our surname.

It is an extremely small place, just about 4sq kms. Visited the local ‘Somnatheshwar temple’ there but could not get inside as it was closed for darshan. The days flew by and we had to move on yet again to Hassan and Bangalore via ShravanBelagola, Belur and Halebid.

Travel - A pilgrimage... Part 2 (Belgaum-Agumbe)

2008-02-11T15:17:00.000+05:30

Left Belgaum at the decent morning hour of 0740hrs, after a hearty breakfast of huge idlis downed by some aromatic filter coffee, at the in-house restaurant of Hotel Ramdev. Tanked up just before getting on NH4 to be on our way to Agumbe. The weather was very pleasant befitting a chilly January morning and the drive comfortable right up to Harihar where we had to turn off the highway towards Shimoga. From the turnoff, the road was reduced to a two-lane tarmac with a few potholes thrown in as bumpy surprises. The traffic volume was low and mostly that of tractors and trucks.

Reached Shimoga at 1330hrs having covered a distance of 314kms in six hours. Saw a decent looking restaurant and parked for lunch. The menu mentioned ‘Palak Rice’ along with ‘Dahi Rice’. I love Dahi Rice but had never heard of Palak Rice so decided to try it out so called for one of each. Both were delicious and they also served a couple of glasses of hot ‘Rasam’, which was slurpicious. All this for a mere Rs.70/-. Feeling contented we set out again on the two laner onwards towards Agumbe via Teerthahalli. The bamboo forest all along kept the weather nice and pleasant. Unfortunately, the greenery had faded. It was lovely when we had passed through it in August last year. The rains had painted the forest bright green. However, even now, it was pleasant enough to keep the paths through the forest cool and refreshing. We passed through Teerthahalli at 1530hrs having covered a distance of 63kms in an hour and twenty minutes from Shimoga. The market place at Teerthahalli was very crowded. Seemed it was a ‘market day’ and the whole village and neighbouring villagers was out there to trade their goods. It was only later, in Agumbe that we learnt that the ‘Teerthahalli Jatra (fair) had just started and would last for a couple of days. We maneuvered through the crowds and got back on to the road to Agumbe, which was just 33kms away. The 45minutes drive to Agumbe brought back memories of our fears as we had passed through the place last year. We were repeatedly told not to stop anywhere on the Agumbe ghat, especially if yours is the lone vehicle on the road. We were also advised to look for other vehicles and travel along with them like a convoy. All this as, apparently, there was a huge amount of Naxalite activity in the area and the Naxals would stop vehicles and rob/harm random vehicles passing through. We had zipped through and counted our blessings for the safe passage then. And we had done it to avoid the terrible condition of national highway17 between Mangalore and Mumbai, which actually is a beautiful coastal route to travel on. But we had suffered enough on the way to Mangalore and were in no mood to get our body aching and the car damaged. We had preferred to take our chances with the feared Naxals! While web surfing, chanced upon a blog that spoke very highly about Agumbe and its surroundings and there were quite a few references by people who had visited and stayed there. That got me thinking ‘why not’ and zeroed in on the accommodation offered at the ‘Agumbe Rainforest Research Station (ARRS)’ an NGO established by the famous Romulus Whittaker who also runs a snake/crocodile research centre in Chennai. Checked out the location of ARRS on Google earth and thought no further. It was in a small clearing in the forest, away from the main road. The ARRS is managed wonderfully by a young man Mr.Gowrishankar, ably assisted by Mr.Prashant who lives in the Agumbe village. For accommodation, one has to get in touch with Mr.Gowrishankar, who insisted that since they do not want noisy vacationers frequenting the place, would like to have nature lovers as guests. Having convinced him of my bonafides, managed to get a couple of nights booked in this heavenly place.

Drove into ARRS at 1615hrs and as I shut off the engine there was total silence. Just some birds chirping, that’s it. Gowrishankar was there to receive us and he showed us to our cottage. The exterior of the cottage was done very tastefully and looked very pretty. The interior was very basic – a couple of cots, chairs and a very clean bathroom. Very airy and filled with natural light. The ARRS was powered by solar energy so no television. Our cell phones also died due no network coverage. The only phone connection was BSNL cdma that existed in the ARRS main cottage. It was the lifeline for people in and around Agumbe who had a snake encroaching on their premises. On receiving an SOS, he would rush in his jeep to ‘rescue’ the snake and release it in the forest on the ARRS premises. Around 1730hrs Gowrishankar had to go to the village and offered to take us to the house made famous in the ‘Malgudi Days’ television serial.

We met Kasturi akka – the owner of the property – who offered us some wonderful ‘Masala Kurmura (puffed rice)’ and ‘Kashaya (hot herbal brew)’. Spent the evening chatting with her and learnt that she rents out rooms on the upper floor of the now famous ‘Malgudi Days cottage’ Dinner at ARRS was at 2030hrs and we would all have it together in the beautiful dining area. Over dinner, Gowrishankar explained why snakes thrived in Agumbe.

A) In South Kanara, the snake is revered and the King Cobra has temples devoted to it. B) Agumbe has the second highest rainfall after Cheerapunji hence the climate is perfect for the King Cobra to proliferate. Next morning, after a hearty breakfast of eggs on toast, at around 1030hrs we set out to visit Parshwanath Chaityalaya on Kundadri hill. It is located 18kms away and 320metres above Agumbe which itself is 600metres above sea level. Kundadri hill is in fact a single gigantic monolithic rock formation with various outgrowths.

This place is also a Jain pilgrimage centre.

Kundadri, named after the Jain monk Kundakundacharya who is said to have practiced severe penance here, throngs with Jain Pilgrims during Makar Sankranti.

The single lane road that climbs up is steep and has a dozen hairpin bends. An awesome drive. There is a small parking lot on top from where you climb up a dozen steps to reach the temple - a Vrushabha Teerthankara Jain basadi said to have been built in the 17th century.

The views from the top are breathtaking. After spending a few minutes of absorbing the beauty, we head back. Next on the agenda was the ‘Sunset Point’. We were advised to be there by 1700hrs, to ensure ringside seats of the spectacle. The sunset per se is not spectacular but the view of the valley at dusk and the festive atmosphere is.

Made use of the multi photo ops offered and traced our way back to ARRS for an early dinner. After a restful night, we were treated to some wonderfully delicious ‘Neer Dosas’ for breakfast. Departed from Agumbe towards Sringeri, Hornadu and Vittal with hopes of returning, maybe during the monsoons to commune some more with nature at its best. Finally may I add that all the locals whom I spoke to averred that the Naxals do not attack anybody at random but only those whom they perceive as enemies of the common man. It was their fervent hope that Agumbe grows as a tourist destination boosting their economy.

Travel – A pilgrimage…… Part 1 (MUMBAI-KOLHAPUR-BELGAUM)

2008-02-02T12:06:00.000+05:30

Travel has become a religion for my wife and me. It is very fulfilling as it also gives us a spiritual connect. Have also noticed that to visit exotic locales garnished with history, all that one has to do is to ensure that one visits the local religious places, which are inevitably located in some of the most beautiful, and scenic locations. Apart from the natural beauty, one is also treated to some enlightening history. And so, this time when we decided to drive down to Mangalore by avoiding the NH17, we decided to drop in for a while at Kolhapur where the deity of Mahalakshmi, also known as Ambabai resides in the heart of the city. We set out from Bandra at 0530hrs to beat the traffic on a cool January morning. The weather and the wide-open roads were all very encouraging to eat up the road and soon we were cruising on the Mumbai-Pune Expressway. The tummy rumbled for attention as we neared the second food mall on the expressway and we decided to satiate our hunger and stopped for ‘vadapav and chai’ breakfast. The ambience was good but the food was ordinary. I suppose the first food mall must have been the better of the two as there were plenty of buses and cars parked there – precisely the reason that put us off, as I hate to queue for food. Having fortified ourselves, off we went back on the road, not wanting to miss out on the pleasure of making the best of the pleasant weather to drive in. Soon the Kolhapur exit made its presence and there we asked for directions to the famed temple. The directions were simple. Turn right, go under the flyover, enter the welcome-arch to Kolhapur, and then go straight till the third statue in a roundabout. This statue is the Shahu Maharaj statue where you turn left and bingo – the temple! The signage is pretty decent too. There are parking restrictions around the temple so you just follow the ‘Pilgrims Parking’ signs and park in the designated parking lot for a fee of Rs.10/-. The walk to the temple is a mere five minutes. We parked at 1130hrs having covered a distance of 386kms. The temple has three entrances and you may choose any. There are manned shelves to keep your footwear at all the entrances where they charge you Rs.1/- per pair. Being a Tuesday, the devotees were aplenty but orderly, as the temple had made good arrangements for disciplined darshan for all. Of course, you could barely glance and bow down your head in obeisance and you were urged to move on to ensure that all devotees got ‘darshan’. The whole process from the time we queued up till we stepped out after paying our respects just took us fifteen minutes. As photography was prohibited inside the temple, took some outside. There were some very intricate carvings on the outer walls of the temple. The temple tops were freshly painted and stood out in stark contrast to the rest of the stone colored structure. On our way back, we came across a monument atop which there was a figure of an athlete! It took me by surprise as it was the first time that I saw an athlete being adored and revered in India, ahead of cricket players. At the bottom was a plaque honoring all the Olympians from Kolhapur. Now it was time to taste the famed spicy Kolhapuri food and as advised by various foodie friends we decided to head towards ‘Opal’ restaurant for our lunch. On our way to the parking lot, we saw a school and a junior college housed in a heritage building which looked like a fortress! Wow! Walking along we spotted a residential block, which again seemed to belong to history. Kolhapur sure is a city wrapped in history. To get to ‘Opal’, we were directed to retrace our route back towards the highway till ‘Tara Rani Chowk’ – again the third roundabout where we would take a right. And there on our left stood a mansion like structure christened ‘Opal’. We were welcomed very courteously and ushered to our seats for a typically non-vegetarian thali which was accompanied by some yummy ‘sol kadi’. The vegetarian thali too was delicious. This sumptuous repast put us back by a couple of hundred rupees. Well spent. The food was good and the service – excellent! Got back on the highway onwards towards Belgaum – the preferred place for our night halt. Checked in at 1530hrs with the odo reading 501, in Hotel Ramdev and since we had an evening to loaf around, did precisely that. Had read about the famed fort in Belgaum and it turned out to be just a couple of kms from the Hotel. So after refreshing ourselves with a hot cuppa we strolled out at 1700hrs towards the fort. It is a straight road from the Hotel till the Sungoli Rayanna Circle where you turn left and adjacent to the main Bus stand is the Fort. Just inside the gates of the Fort is the Military Durga Temple. The Fort has a church and a mosque too, apart from the many government and military offices as it seems to be occupied by the military forces. All the religious structures in the fort are apparently run for and by the military forces and are open to all. Strolled back leisurely to the Hotel for a delicious South Indian meal at their in house restaurant and retired early for a restful night to ensure a refreshed departure next morning for an exciting destination – Agumbe!

Raigad Fort

2007-12-28T19:08:00.000+05:30

When Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj calls, you just get up and go. And that is exactly what we did last Sunday! On the dot at 0540, we set out from Bandra, onto the Mumbai Goa highway NH17. It was dark and chilly. The excitement at visiting a place that I had been trying to visit for the past twelve years, but somehow had never managed to do so, for a variety of reasons, was palpable. The drive, all through until Mahad on the highway was smooth. At Mahad, we took a left to reach Pachad, which is at the base of the famous fort Raigad. This road was a two-laned road that at times narrowed down to a single lane. It also had an exciting batch of about a dozen hairpin bends. Due to paucity of time and stamina, had decided to take the cable car which operates from the point where the motorable road ends and lifts you upto the fort in a matter of just four minutes. Reached the Ropeway starting point at 0915hrs, having covered a distance of 191kms.The Ropeway traverses a diagonal length of 760 metres and a steep ascent of 420 metres – a distance which would have otherwise taken us around 3 hours over 1450 steps! They charge you Rs.140/- per head for the journey up and down in addition to the services of a guide to take you around the fort. We had a typical Maharashtrian breakfast of Kanda-pohey in the café run by the Ropeway operators, purchased the tickets for the ride to the fort and bided our time in the waiting area for our turn. The Ropeway seemed more like elevators going up and down! Within minutes, it was our turn to get into the cable car and I readied my camera to get some pictures. Got some and before I could catch my breath it was time to disembark at the Mena Darwaza – the alighting point for the Ropeway travellers. There we were met by Mr. Gaikwad, our guide on ‘Raigad’, who took us to a waiting group for further action. Once he had assembled about thirty of us, he started his spiel. The starting point of our tour was the Mena Darwaza – the entrance through which the ladies of the Fort would enter. Fort Raigad was the capital of the most illustrious Maratha sovereign, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. European historians have described it as 'The Gibraltar of the East'. The sheer vertical rock face soaring into the sky above appears defiant and insurmountable. As he took us along through the various points on the Fort, he explained everything beautifully and with a great amount of passion that was heartening to note. Innumerable tales of Shivaji’s strategies and valor were narrated as reasons towards his many wives. Apparently, he married princesses from various places to ensure that he would not be attacked by the rulers of those states! We counted eight living quarters specifically meant for his queens. He was so organized that he had a full-fledged ‘Secretariat’, the remnants of which can still be seen. To ensure that his entourage and their families who lived with him on the Fort were comfortable, there was a ‘Bazaar Peth’ that was headed by one Nagappa Seth. Trading of daily consumables was carried out here for the convenience of the Fort residents. However, nowhere on the Fort was anyone allowed to display their name on any property and Nagappa wanted to feature somewhere somehow. Since he was not allowed to display his name anywhere, he displayed a ‘Naag’ or snake on the wall of his shop to symbolize his presence! We were then shown the ‘TakMak’ point, which is the edge of a sheer cliff from where traitors would be thrown off as punishment. This particular point also has a curious tale of steadfast devotion and obedience. Chhatrapati Shivaji used to visit the place often and would always be accompanied by a ‘Chhatri’ or an Umbrella bearer. On one of these visits, due to strong winds, the Chhatri bearer who was under orders not to leave the Chhatri under any circumstances, was blown off the cliff but miraculously parachuted down to a village named Nizampur. Chhatrapati Shivaji then announced that the village would henceforth be called ChhatriNizampur! The most amazing place was where he held court or Durbar. Right from the doorway to his throne, anywhere in the court, if anyone even whispered, it could be heard very clearly at the throne. Our guide proved it to us by asking us to wait near the throne and he stood near the doorway and whispered ‘Shivaji Maharaj ki’, to which all of us promptly responded with a ‘Jai Ho’! And this is no covered auditorium! Amazing architecture indeed! The architect has also carved his guarantee on the door leading to the Jagdishwar temple, which Shivaji visited daily, stating that it will stand the test of time and shall remain forever! Adjacent to this temple is the Samadhi of Chhatrapati Shivaji, behind which one can see the statue of a dog on a pedestal. This, we are told, was Shivaji’s faithful dog ‘Waghya’ who committed suicide on learning about the death of his beloved master! Hence, he was immortalized next to his master. The overall area over which the Fort is built is huge and it would take at least a couple of days or more for a thorough absorption of the history therein. So, with a promise to return yet another day and spend a couple of days in the peaceful environs, we start on our way back. Lunch at ‘Kulkarni’s Suyash’ restaurant near Mangaon on our return trip is memorable for a couple of reasons. The first of course is the delicious food in a natural ambience and second is the crows that descend on the tables at every opportunity to peck at the leftovers. This inspite of the catapult bearers who keep taking potshots at the intruders. It seems like a regular game between the birds and boys! Fun to watch. Post lunch it was a straight drive back home with a feeling of day well spent. Getting there: By Road From Pune: Chandni Chowk - Paud Road - Mulshi – Adarwadi - Nizampur - Mangaon - Mumbai-Goa Highway - Mahad - Raigad Distance from Pune to Raigad is 150 Km. From Mumbai: Mumbai to Panvel by Goa highway towards Goa up to Mahad-Raigad. Distance from Mumbai to Raigad is 190 Km. For details regarding the Ropeway, visit their website at www.raigadropeway.com Accommodation: MTDC has cottages on top and reservations can be made at www.maharashtratourism.gov.in The Ropeway organisation also has accommodation details of which can be obtained at http://www.raigadropeway.com/Raigad%20Ropeway.htm Restaurants/cafes are run by MTDC and the Ropeway organisation at the Fort. You will also find locals selling typical Maharashtrian food and buttermilk at the Fort. The locals do not have any stalls but carry the food in baskets on their heads.

2007-12-24T21:06:00.001+05:30

Karla and Bhaja caves

2007-11-03T19:17:00.000+05:30

If one has an interest in ancient Indian history and wish to indulge in some cave art appreciation, a visit to Karla and Bhaje caves is a must. Located about 10kms from Lonavala and 115kms from Mumbai the caves are worth spending the weekend at.

Karla caves

Bhaja caves

As structures excavated in stone were the most durable, rock cut architecture came to the fore in India during the reign of Emperor Ashoka who was looking for a lasting medium to commemorate and spread the teachings of Buddha. The style of architecture turned out to be especially suited to the Sahayadri ranges, as the hills were composed of alternating horizontal strata of harder and softer volcanic trap rock making excavation easy. Hence, the Sahayadri range is dotted with cave temples. Built along trade routes, the Buddhist monasteries were important stages on the journey providing resting places for the traders as well as supply-cum-banking stations for them. There are about 1000 rock cut caves in Western India, a large number of which are around Lonavala - a name that is a derivation from Lenauli (place of many caves - Lena meaning cave). Of these, the most famous are at Karla, Bhaja, Bedsa and Kondane. The Karla, Bhaja and Bhedsa cave temples are perfect examples of the early phase of Buddhist architecture known as the Hinayana phase wherein the Buddha was represented symbolically.

In the early period Hinayana Buddhism prevailed and in the latter, Mahayana Buddhism. In the Hinayana period, to which Karla belongs, the architectural design was wood based, being copies of wooden buildings of an earlier age. Also, as the Buddha, not wanting to be deified, had decreed that after his death, "neither the gods nor men shall see him", in this period he is represented by symbols. The lotus or the elephant, symbolizing his birth, the bodhi tree under which he attained Nirvana, the wheel of law which he set in motion, a stupa or mound symbolizing his death and a throne symbolizing that he is a prince among men.

By the seventh century AD, the Mahayana sect took over and representations of Buddha became more common. By the central doorway, you will find sculptures of the Buddha preaching while seated on a lion-supported throne, along with magnificent carvings of three elephants.

The excavations took the shape of the chaitya or prayer hall and the vihara or monastery.

The viharas were the dwelling place of the monks and usually consisted of cells cut into the walls around three sides of a hall.

The excavation at Karla, the site of the largest Chaitya caves in India, began around the beginning of the Christian era and culminated in the 4^th century A.D. The principal cave measuring 37.87m x 13.87m x 14.02m (L x B x H) is the largest Chaitya among the Buddhist caves in the country.

The most remarkable feature of this cave are the wooden rafters that support the arched roof. They have survived all elements over a period of more than 200years!

At the entrance of this cave is the temple of Goddess Ekvira visited by thousands of devotees from the coastal region around Mumbai during the annual festival in April (chaitra) and during Navratri.

The Ekvira temple is on the right side of the cave while on the left is a giant pillar with three lions on its top.

In the outer porch is a vestibule outlined by walls with carvings of couples and elephants.

The interior of the hall consists of a colonnade and a sun-window. The colonnade has 37 pillars, each with some fine sculpture at the top.

One group consists of two kneeling elephants each with a male and a female rider wearing ornate headdresses and jewelry. Another group has horses, originally decked with rich trappings, just as the elephants had ivory and silver tusks.

At the far end of the hall is a stupa, literally meaning funeral mound, above which is an umbrella - a symbol of royalty.

The sun window, a wonderful arrangement for the diffusion of light, deflects the rays of the sun in a manner that soft light falls on the stupa.

On the other side of the highway and railway tracks are the Bhaja caves. The 18 Bhaja caves are supposed to have been built for Buddhist nuns and are as old as Karla caves.

Cave no 12 is a chaitya hall - the finest of the cave complex. In the chaitya, there is a stupa that is 3.4 metres in diameter and has a deep socket for the shaft of an umbrella that once canopied it.

Cave no 1 is the dwelling house for the master architect, 10 are viharas and remaining 7 caves contain inscriptions about the donors.

Apart from these, there is a group of stupas at the southern end.

A few minutes' walk past the last cave is a beautiful waterfall, which, during the monsoon looks beautiful. From here, you can see the Visapur and Lohagarh forts.

The last has two fascinating sculptures that are still well preserved.

One sculpture depicts the sun god "Surya" with his chariot drawn by four horses.

The other sculpture depicts Indra, sitting astride his elephant Airavata that appeared when the ocean was churned up.

Both these historic sites (Karla and Bhaja) can be covered in a day, preferably in the afternoon as they both face the West and one can enjoy the sights in the streaming rays of the setting sun.

Getting there:

By Road: Karla and Bhaja are 10kms from Lonavala, which is 100kms from Mumbai. Get onto the Mumbai – Pune expressway and take the 2^nd exit for Lonavala. Once you get onto NH4 turn left towards Karla and soon you will encounter a tollbooth. Karla is just a couple of kms drive thereon. At Karla junction if you turn left you will head towards Karla caves or if you turn right, you will head towards Bhaje caves. Both are at a distance of about 5kms from the highway either way.

One can drive up almost to the caves and need to climb only for about 20minutes from the parking lots.

Entrance charges at both caves is Rs.10/- per head and parking charges Rs.10/- at Karla.

By Rail: The closest railway station is Malavali – 5kms either way (Karla or Bhaja).

Hotels: MTDC is the best bet which has a wonderful resort at Karla or there are many other private hotels to suit every budget in Lonavala.

Bhimashankar

2007-10-14T12:51:00.000+05:30

Bhimashankar, one of the twelve Jyotirlingas is at a distance of around 200kms from Mumbai.

It is a place to revel in nature and spiritual bliss.

It is also the source of the River Bhima, which flows southeast and merges with the river Krishna.

It is built in the Nagara style of architecture and dates back to the 18th century. One can also find influences from the Indo Aryan style of architecture. It is believed that the ancient shrine was erected over a Swayambhu Linga or a Self Emanated Shiva Linga. Thus the Linga is exactly in the centre of the floor of the Garbagriha or the Sanctum.

Intricate carvings adorn the pillars and the doorframes of the temple. Within the temple precincts there is also a small shrine dedicated to Lord Shani. The statue of Nandi – Lord Shiva’s vahana is installed just at the entrance of the temple as aways. The shikhara of the temple was built by Nana Phadnavis. Shivaji - the great Maratha ruler is said to have facilitated the carrying out of worship services. As with other Shiva temples in this area, the sanctum is at a lower level.

As per the legend, once a demon called Bhima lived with his mother Karkati in the dense forests of Dakini, on the lofty ranges of the Sahaydris.

It is said that Bhima was so cruel that every one was scared of him. But what tormented Bhima was his curiosity regarding his own existence. One day, Bhima urged his mother to tell him who his father was and why he had abandoned them in the wilderness of the forest. His mother revealed that he was the son of Kumbhakarna, the younger brother of the mighty King Ravana - the King of Lanka. Bhima’s mother Kartaki also told him that Lord Vishnu in his incarnation as Lord Rama annihilated Kumbhakarna. This infuriated Bhima and he vowed to avenge Lord Vishnu. Bhima performed severe penance to please Lord Brahma. The compassionate creator was pleased by the dedicated devotee and granted him immense prowess. With so much power, Bhima began to cause havoc in the three worlds. He defeated King Indra and conquered the heavens. He also defeated a staunch devotee of Lord Shiva - Kamrupeshwar and put him in the dungeons. All this angered the Gods and they along with Lord Brahma beseeched Lord Shiva to come for their rescue to which Lord Shiva agreed. Tyrant Bhima asked Kamrupeshwar to worship him instead of Lord Shiva. When Kamrupeshwar refused, Bhima raised his sword to strike the Shiva Linga. But as soon as he raised his sword, Lord Shiva appeared before him in full magnificence. Then the terrible war began. Holy sage Narad appeared and requested Lord Shiva to put an end to this war. It was then that Lord Shiva reduced the evil demon to ashes and thus concluded the saga of tyranny. All the Gods and the holy sages present there requested Lord Shiva to make this place his abode. Lord Shiva thus manifested himself in the form of the Bhimashankar Jyotirlinga. It is believed that the sweat that poured forth from Lord Shiva’s body after the battle formed the Bhima River.

Apart from the Bhimashankar temple one can visit the Bhimashankar Wildlife Sanctuary which is home to a variety of endangered species of flora and fauna. The dominant species of flora are Mango, Hirda, Behda, various medicinal herbs, bamboo and fern. The Giant Indian Squirrel is one of the major attractions of the sanctuary. The other species found in the dense forests are Panther, Sambar, Mouse Deer, Hyena and the Wild boar

There are no hotels there. The local upadhyayas or priests make arrangements for the lodging and boarding of pilgrims at a small cost. Visitors are accommodated in either temporary hutments or in dharamshalas near the village. A new dharamshala is under construction.

The food is typically Maharashtrian available in stalls or dhaba type cafes. Basically vegetarian fare as in the temple surroundings.

One can trek to Bhimashankar too.

Bhimashankar is at a height of 3250 feet. Karjat is the nearest station from which the bus for Khandas can be taken (1st bus is at 10:00 a.m.). The 11/2 hour journey (approximately 40 Km.) will take you to Khandas. The summit can be reached either by Ganesh Ghat or Shidi Ghat. The climb via Shidi Ghat is a bit tough, but very enjoyable. Going through to the dense forest will take you to the top in around 4 hrs.

Best Time to Visit - August to February

Nearest Airport Pune (130 Km) By Rail Pune (130 Km)

By Road from Pune - 85kms

By road from Mumbai there are 2 routes

1)Mumbai-Bhimashankar (via Lonavala) - 213kms

2)Mumbai-Murbad - 87kms - Bhimashankar (via Malshej) -147kms

Total (87+147=234kms) The drive from Mumbai would take about 5 to 6 hours.

Vitla - Mudbidri - Karkala - Mumbai

2007-09-01T10:06:00.000+05:30

Once potholed twice shy! For the return drive to Mumbai, decided to take the much heard of scenic route via Moodbidri, Karkala, Agumbe and onwards to Shivamoga, Harihar, Hubli and back onto the comforts of NH4.

Set out from Vitla at 0630hrs for Moodbidri where we wanted to visit the Thousand Pillars temple. Covered the distance of 46kms in an hour on one and a half laned roads with hardly any traffic for company. Tribhuvana Tilaka Chudamani (also known as Thousand Pillars temple) basadi (temple) is the largest and the most ornate of the Jain temples of this region. Moodbidri is described as the 'Jaina Kashi'.

Built in 1430 A.D. at the instance of Devaraya Wodeyar of Nagamangala of the Mangalore kingdom, the basadi enshrines a panchaloha (5 metals) idol of Lord Chandraprabha, the eighth Thirthankara. The entrance to the temple is imposing, giving one an idea of the awe inspiring structures inside. There were barely any people inside. Just a couple of guys sitting and possibly discussing philosophy. But pillars , yes, there were plenty! One thousand of them. I didn't venture to count though as I trusted what was posted. Entry in the sanctum sanctorum was restricted to Jains. There was a board restricting entry and we had to satisfy ourselves by squinting in the darkness at the idol inside and pay our respects from a distance.

Then we did a parikrama of the temple appreciating the amount of effort that must have gone in erecting the one thousand pillars for this wondrous temple. Had also read somewhere that no two pillars are alike! Amazing. Now we were ready to face the Gomateshwara in Karkala which was a mere 25kms away. Again very decent roads helped us cover the distance in 25kms.

The 42feet high monolith is situated on the top of a hill. Fortunately the weather was very pleasant and we climbed up the steps, admired the Gomateshwara and came down appreciating the views, all in 30minutes flat! Then on to Agumbe! Had read and heard so much about these fearful ghats (a dozen hairpin bends coupled with Naxal threats) that we were quite excited at what lay in store. Thankfully, did the ghats in relative comfort and crossed Agumbe into a bamboo forest on our way to Tirthahalli where we had our breakfast - some delicious vada sambar and masala dosas followed by filter coffee - heavenly! All along, the roads were very decent and the traffic sparse. Surprisingly did not encounter much of cattle and human traffic either. Just before reaching Shivamoga, at Harakere saw this wonderful Shiva statue. Don't know why it was built. But there. Having entered Shivamoga, could not figure how to get out to Harihar. Were told that we would have to take some diversion due rain-ruined roads. Spotted a couple of elderly souls waiting to cross the road and asked them for directions. While one of them started giving directions, another asked whether they could accompany us to the spot from where it would be one straight road to Harihar?! 'Of course Sirs, Please get right in!' One of them, Mr.Narayan, was a music teacher running a music school in Shivamoga since years and entertained guests like Pandit Jasraj and other famed musicians at the school while the other gentleman was a retired Physics professor. Shortly we reached the spot where they got off and bid us farewell wishing us bon voyage and thanking us for having given them a 'lift'! Told them we were extremely grateful for their kindness and prayed 'may their tribe increase'.

Had an uneventful but a thoroughly enjoyable drive to the highway and then on NH4 right upto Belgaum. Since it was almost 1800hrs, and the sky was getting overcast, decide to spend the night in Belgaum. Did so in Hotel Ramdev International - very decent,clean and efficient Hotel with reasonably good food too - all at very very knock down prices! Set out from Belgaum at 0700hrs, had an energizing drive to Lonavala where we stopped for a vadapau lunch at Datta Snacks on the Expressway. Around 1430hrs got back onto the road and soon the rains hit us with a ferocity that can be seen and felt only on mountainous terrain. Visibility was down to maybe a hundred feet at the most. Sheets of rain wrapping all in sight and the wind howling to make us crawl in awe on the expressway! And it disappeared as quickly as it had appeared leaving behind gleaming wet tarmac and glistening greenery all around. Beautiful!

A perfect way to end our journey back in Mumbai to the daily grind! Distances Vitla-Shivamoga - 208kms Shivamoga - Belgaum - 313kms Belgaum - Mumbai - 485kms Total - 1006kms Car - Indica V2 DLS TC

Mumbai - Jog Falls - Vitla (near Mangalore)

2007-08-24T20:55:00.000+05:30

Pictures of the picturesque Jog Falls had beckoned. We responded by setting out at 0530hrs on Independence Day. The weather was perfect for a long drive and the highway – NH4 - was very supportive too.

Being a national holiday the traffic was very sparse, increasing my driving pleasure. Have always considered myself a very sedate driver, indulging in enjoying the scenery and firmly believing in the drive rather than the destination. Hence, I was rather surprised at the speed at which we reached Belgaum. We were there at 1300hrs, ready for lunch! Got off the exit and drove down to an old favorite – Ramdev International for a sumptuous South Indian thali. Surprises never cease! The two thalis cost Rs.60/- only! Got back onto the highway and soon were in Hubli, the place where I had intended to take a night halt, but as it was rather early, decided to move on to Sirsi and cut down on our drive time to Jog Falls next morning. The GQ was still under construction in places between Hubli and Harihar and it showed. As we handed over our toll pass at the Hubli check post, there was total chaos with plenty of diversions and total lack of signage. Whatever signage that existed was in Kannada only. Fortunately for me I was accompanied by my Kannada enabled wife:), without whom the journey would have been miserable! Soon we spotted a tiny cutoff for Mundgod and Sirsi. Somehow, I thought that the ‘road’ lacked the approach necessary for mighty Jog, so asked the chaiwala at the turning whether that road actually led anywhere. With great enthusiasm, he nodded vigorously and directed us to go ahead. Just then there was a passerby who had stopped by listening in to our conversation and with equal vigor he shook his head and told us not to take that route as the stretch between Mundgod and Sirsi was closed due damage by heavy rain. We were then redirected to go to Sirsi via Hangal. This road was a single laned road right through to about 10kms from Sirsi where it broadened a bit to 1 and ½ lane. This drive was a drive down the ages where time is of no consequence. The pace is gentle and time just trickles. Reached Sirsi around 1800hrs and checked in at Hotel Shivani (KSTDC approved). Got a huge room with a TV for under Rs.500/-. The staff at the Hotel was very friendly and courteous but the food was not. The weather was very pleasant. It had just rained so the aroma of wet soil lingered in the cool air. Since Jog was just an hour’s drive from Sirsi, we set out leisurely at 0730hrs. We were advised to visit Sri Marikamba Temple on the way and have breakfast in a restaurant just opposite the temple. The ‘Medu-Vadas’ were heavenly. The winding road through the Jog forest all the way to Jog was soothing. Reached Jog in an hour and joined the long line of parked vehicles. The ‘falls’ were a bit of a downer as had anticipated real aggressively full falls. However, the views did offer plenty of photo-ops and the clouds floating by added to the charm.

Inspite of being warned of ‘bad roads’ set out towards Honnavar to take the coastal route to Mangalore. Reached Honnavar for lunch – again a sumptuous South Indian thali costing Rs.22/- each! That indeed was the last bright spot of the drive. The ‘highway’ NH17 from Honnavar right upto Mangalore is the pits –literally and figuratively! The drive was more like sailing on stormy seas in a canoe. Added to the bad roads were the trucks and buses raising dust as they tried to reach their destinations on schedule. Marvanthe beach was the reason for my decision to take the coastal route. Even Marvanthe seemed to be teeming with trucks lined up on the road, as that was the only part of the highway that seemed in reasonably good condition and offered a breather to all the highway travelers. Reached Vitla at 2100hrs – happy to have finished with the nightmarish roads. Spent a couple of peaceful days unwinding and attended the Nag panchami puja at the Ananteshwar temple.

Distances travelled - Mumbai-Hubli (NH4 - superb road - part of GQ) - 589kms Hubli-Sirsi (via Hangal as Mundgod -Sirsi road was closed) single lane.- 124kms Sirsi-Jog (lovely forest 2laned road) - 60kms Jog-Honnavar (good road thru the dense forest) - 61kms Honnavar-Mangalore (NH17-nightmare) - 178kms - this road is the pits - literally and figuratively! Avoid it as far as possible. Mangalore-Vitla - tolerable after the nightmare - 45kms

Goan summer

2007-06-09T12:00:00.000+05:30

Mumbai to Margao in May was a crazy idea and that too by road! But we just wanted to do it and when you got to go you got to go (to Goa!). Weather be damned! So on a hot Friday afternoon at 1430hrs we piled on into our Maruti Omni and set out on our way. Surprisingly the traffic was rather thin and we reached Karnala (just beyond Panvel) within an hour! We stopped by at Hotel Karnala, our favorite stop for some amazing batata wadas, kanda bhajiyas and chai, to refresh ourselves. The owner Mr.Hattiangadi, who by now is our ready reference map on that route, advised us to travel up to Khed or Chiplun for our night halt, as night driving is not for us. So feeling refreshed we got on to NH17 at 1600hrs. The heat had not burned out our enthusiasm. The mercury had dropped reasonably not to fry us and the drive was easing out. Nearing Mahad, for a couple of kilometers the road runs parallel to river Savitri and it is very scenic. On the outskirts of Mahad, overlooking the river is a garden café –Ruchi Gardens. It is worth taking a short break here to refresh in the natural beauty. The roads were good, so though it was a long and winding road, which dipped and climbed at will, we made it to Khed in three and a half hours. As a matter of fact, at the fork that split the road to Khed and the bypass, we found a lovely place to stay –Hotel Anmol. There was a general sense of quiet efficiency and the cleanliness was remarkable. The food was good and the service, indeed, excellent! It was value for money. Rooms are available in the range of Rs.300/- to Rs.900/- and surely worth the stay before the final lap to Margao. Early next morning we set out in very pleasant cool weather. The roads again were wonderful making the drive through several ghats on the way a piece of cake. All along the way there were shady trees lining the roads, so we could stop as and when we felt like, to get the blood circulating in our behinds which were numbed due to being sat on for long hours! For lunch we stopped near Kudal and had a lovely Malvani treat in a restaurant –Sharmilaa. The food is cooked after you place your order so be prepared for a longish wait - but it is worth the wait for the delicious food is lip smackingly Malvani! Having sated our taste buds with some fine fishy delicacies, we got back on the road to race the sun into the sea. It took us just three hours to reach our destination – Haathi Mahal in Margao. We checked in and after a quick wash, strolled to the beach to bid goodbye to the setting sun. Welcome to Margao! Margao is the happening city South of Goa. This city has developed in recent times. All along it was the North Goan beaches that were in the limelight, popularized by the flower people – hippies – in the 70s. But now it is the turn of South Goa with its temples, forest ranges and of course the beaches to shine bright and beautiful. Margao city per se is very small and centers around one garden. The government offices and the central business district all surround this garden! This is the city, which can satiate any tourist – the beach bum, the pilgrim or the wildlife enthusiast! The famous beaches near Margao are Colva, Benaulim, Cavelossim, Mobor and Palolem. All these beaches are beautiful and clean. Since we were staying near Cavelossim, that was the beach we frequented dawn to dusk! This is dawn at Cavelossim. We would find quite a few dogs ensconced in the cool sands. A walk on these sands at dawn is very invigorating and peps you up for the day. This is the magical sunset that we would view every evening in Cavelossim. A picturesque ending to a beautiful day! For all those lovers of water sports there is parasailing and water-scooters too! The temples in the pictures are the most popular in Goa. Lata Mangeshkar and her family are supposed to be very closely associated with the Mangeshi Temple. So whatever that you wish to do, maybe even nothing, you can do it around Margao! There are plenty of restaurants to choose from along the coast and the beaches, though the ones on the beach shutdown during monsoons. The options for cuisine range from traditional Goan to oriental and continental and of course the regular North and South Indian food. You name it and its there! Margao is an amazing city indeed to chill out in, for the rejuvenation of any jaded mind or body. There are quite a few instant Yoga and Ayurveda centers too – though I did not venture or dare to try any! Maybe next time!

Mahabaleshwar

2007-05-15T19:39:00.000+05:30

Strawberries cherries and an angel's kiss in spring ...

That is exactly what Mahabaleshwar is all about in the Indian summer! A place to escape the torrid heat that grips Mumbai, a place to romance strawberries and mulberries, a place to cool off in the thunderous hailstorms that shower the hot tin roofs and plunge the temperatures for lovers to revel in!

Mahabaleshwar has something for all – young and old, trekker and stroller, shopper and foodie or maybe someone who just loves to laze around. Therefore, you will find families, backpackers, moony honeymooners, all doing their own thing and generally having a good time.

To ensure that we beat the crazy traffic, we set out from Mumbai at 0600hrs and it sure was a breeze driving on the broad, traffic free roads. The roads all along were in great shape and we covered the 230kms in just under 5hours including a leisurely halt for breakfast at Vithal Kamaths in Mahad which is about 180kms from Mumbai. After an excellent breakfast, we moved on and soon were at Poladpur – the turning point for Mahabaleshwar! Then the ghat section began with narrow roads and continued right through to Mahabaleshwar. As the traffic was sparse, the narrowness of the roads did not pose much of a problem. Just had to look out for the mini-trucks that were driven by F1drivers! The ghat is steep at places and is winding which could pose problems for people suffering from motion sickness.

The road to Mahabaleshwar on the ghats.

Before you know it, you will be facing a checkpoint where they collect ‘Pollution tax’ from all vehicles entering Mahabaleshwar. It is at a T-junction. If you want to stay in MTDC or the PWD cottages turn right, otherwise for all private Hotels, turn left.

The MTDC reception office

We had our reservations in MTDC (which always has the best locations at all destinations), so turned right and checked in. You can make your room reservation at MTDC online at http://www.maharashtratourism.gov.in. The MTDC cottages are very close to the sunset point or Bombay point and just a couple of kms away from the main market. Therefore, you have the convenience of the market place, yet away from it all, in the peaceful environs of the wooded hills.

Our cottage in MTDC

Drove down to the market place for lunch. Vehicles are not allowed on the main market street; however, there are a couple of parking lots near the bus stand, which is quite convenient. Having parked, we set out to do a recce of the restaurants in the area. There were quite a few vegetarian restaurants and a couple of restaurants serving non-vegetarian fare. Having walked the distance, munching strawberries, mulberries and chickpeas we settled for a moghlai lunch. It was okay, nothing to write about, just about average.

On the way back to MTDC, saw a board directing towards Lodwick point. Though we were not very keen on visiting many points as had been there done that, on an impulse, got onto the road towards Lodwick point.

It is named after a General, the first European to set foot on the Mahabaleshwar hills, who reached this point in 1824. A monument has been erected in his memory.

Beyond Lodwick Point is the extreme end of the mountain range known as Elephant's Head. From Lodwick point, the overhanging cliff looks like an elephant's head and trunk, and hence the name. The views were breathtaking.

Suddenly, the sky started filling up with dark rain clouds prompting us to beat a hasty retreat. We had just entered our cottage, and we were treated to a heavy hailstorm, which lasted for about half an hour. This effectively brought down the ambient temperature to a very pleasant level.

Had a disastrous dinner experience at the MTDC restaurant. It looks good but looks are deceptive. The service was good but the food atrocious.

Our friendly neighbours!

The options of early morning activities are numerous ranging from walking, jogging to horse riding or just plain strolling on the MTDC campus. On the other hand, there is Wilson point where one can go to catch the sunrise. This is very close to MTDC. Actually all points, numbering 30, are within a radius of ten kms and all motorable with a bit of walking now and then.

The view from Kate's point is......as above!

In old Mahabaleshwar, there is the Shri Shankar Mandir. The Mahalinga of lord Shiva is in the form of Rudraksha and believed to be 'self-bodied' (swayambhoo). It is called Trigunatmaka meaning Brahma-Visnhu-Mahesh are on it for ever. On the head of the Mahalinga, you see the marks of the five holy rivers (Panchaganga). Shivaji weighed his mother Jeejabai against gold in this temple and then distributed the gold in charity. No photography at the temple.

After a visit to this temple, we drove towards ‘Arthur’s seat’ and ‘Kate’s point’. Both these points are worth a visit. Plenty of photo opportunities are provided at both these points.

For lunch, we discovered a wonderful five-table restaurant ‘Grapevine’ behind Imperial stores in the market place. It is parallel to the market street. A lovely cozy place and the only restaurant that actually serves a wide range of wines along with some delicious Italian or Thai food!

These are the quaont little seats at Grapevine restaurant. Not very comfortable but the food and the ambience makes it worth the while.

Next morning, we checked out at 0900hrs, had a leisurely breakfast at Shreyas Hotel. After some wonderful masala dosas and uttappas, we set out towards Panchgani. On the way stopped at ‘Deepak strawberry farms’ and picked up some real delicious strawberries, fresh from the fields!

On the return trip took the Panchgani-Wai-Pune-Lonavala-Mumbai trip. This route is longer by about 50kms but due to the expressway is quick and the roads right through are very good.

Even the ghat section is gradual and no steep tight turns. We took a break at Lonavala at Sunny-da-dhaba, a very popular eatery on the highway serving some authentic Punjabi food with a typical village ambience.

Reached Mumbai at 1700hrs after a leisurely drive following a rejuvenating holiday in Mahabaleshwar.

The total amount of toll both ways that we had to shell out was Rs.301/-.

If anybody is interested in staying with the locals, you may visit http://www.maharashtratourism.gov.in/mtdc/html/MaharashtraTourism/Default.aspx?strpage=../MaharashtraTourism/Bed_Breakfast/Mahabaleshwar.html for further details.

Trimbakeshwar

2007-04-26T16:37:00.000+05:30

At a distance of 28kms from Nashik is Trimbak – the location of Trimbakeshwar. It is a religious center having one of the twelve Jyotirlingas. A Jyotirlinga or Jyotirling or Jyotirlingam is a shrine where Lord Shiva, is worshipped in the form of a Jyotirlingam or "Lingam of light." There are twelve traditional Jyotirlinga shrines in India.

It is believed that Shiva first manifested himself as a Jyotirlinga on the night of the Arudra nakshatra, thus the special reverence for the Jyotirlinga. There is nothing specifically different visually, to distinguish it from other Shivalingas, but it is believed that a person can see these lingas as columns of fire piercing through the earth after one reaches a higher level of spiritual attainment. Tri Ambakani Trimbaka means The Lord who has three eyes - Trimbakeshwar. The extraordinary feature of the Jyotirlinga located here is that it has three faces embodying Lord Brahma, Lord Vishnu & Lord Maheshwar (Shiva). The Shivalingam is seen in a depression on the floor of the sanctum.

All other Jyotirlingas have Shiva as the main deity. The temple, which is at the foothills of a mountain called Brahmagiri on which the river Godavari originates, is known for its appealing architecture and sculpture.

Shrimant Balaji Bajirao alias Nanasaheb Peshwa built the main temple during his regime. The work, which began in 1755, was completed in 1786. It is built of black stone in the Nagara style of architecture and is enclosed in a spacious courtyard. The entire structure is ornamented with sculptural work featuring running scrolls, floral designs, figures of gods, yakshas, humans and animals.

At the entrance to the temple there is this Lord Ganesha figure on which you will see people sticking coins. It is believed that if your coin sticks, your wish will be granted.

It is a convenient side trip on the way to or from Nasik and Shirdi. On the Mumbai Nasik route, just about 30kms before Nasik, there is a left turn for Trimbakeshwar. The road is narrow but good. From the cut off, it is about 40kms.

As you approach the temple, you are approached by the local touts, who will promise to whisk you through to the inner sanctum for a fee of Rs.100/-. No queues. In connivance with local security and police, they will even ensure you get a parking space right outside the temple gate! We decided to go on our own so had to park about 200m away in the official parking lot (the touts had told us it would be a km away!). From the entrance of the temple, right upto the inner sanctum there are barriers erected to ensure all visitors enter via a single file. Though the queue seemed long, we got to get in within half an hour. There were priests all along asking to be hired for special prayers, if any, one had to offer.

Photography is prohibited inside the temple.

Saw a board outside which mentioned that entry is for Hindus only.

If you are returning to Mumbai, you have an option of taking the Western Express Highway via Manor. The distance form Trimbakeshwar to Manor is 100kms and Manor Mumbai is 80kms. The roads are excellent all the way. There is an MTDC approved Hotel apart from local guesthouses providing accommodation to those desirous of spending more than a day.