Ann's Fashion Studio

I am still around :)

2008-07-19T18:57:00.004-03:00

Today was a wonderful day. Life is just so busy lately we barely have time to relax. So we decided that today was a do - nothing - day :) We spent the day just driving around and stopping in wherever! One of my stops - my local fabric store. When my husband heard there was a garment steamer I had wanted - in he went with me and bought it...and...he chose some fabric :o Some nice patchwork cotton fabric! He thought the fabric would be great for pj's - for him and our son. And I love this fabric! (I'll post a picture later). I also had the greatest chat with one of the women that works there * Hi Diana * She commented that she had visited my blog :) and that she remembered selling me the fabric for my jacket (Vogue 8043). Diana is also in the process of making her own blog. (Diana make sure you let me know when you are up and posting :) It was great talking to you). We had a great chat about one of our favorite sites - Stitchers Guild - and the great people that post there. It was just so nice to actually "talk" to some one that also visits sites that I just love to visit - like Paco and Tany and so many more....... To finish off a perfect day, I am going to start (I am so far behind) working on my coat for the Great Coat Sew Along.

Jacket - Vogue 8043 Details

2008-06-08T20:12:00.026-03:00

I embroidered my own label for this Jacket. I included the pattern number. To sew the chain to the hem I used fishing line. It worked really well.

Bound Buttonholes.

I lightened the picture so you can see the welts on the bound buttonhole. I used black wool crepe for the welts.

Jacket - Vogue 8043

2008-06-07T20:48:00.040-03:00

I absolutely love this jacket. It fits perfect. (I pretty much always make bound buttons on jackets. This time I took pictures when making them and will post as a different entry.) Pattern Description: Semi-fitted,fully interfaced,lined jacket has princess seams, shoulder pads, welt pockets,front button closure and long two piece sleeves. Pattern Sizing: A/32- B/34-C/36. I initially did my muslin for size C/36, but it was too big. I made the B/34. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? It looked exactly like the picture on the pattern. Were the instructions easy to follow? It is a very straight forward, well written and laid out pattern. Sandra Betzina gives allot of tips on fitting and placement for plaids. Her instructions are very easy to follow. (There are allot of instructions on different fitting issues, it's a matter of picking what pertains to you) What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the style! I like everything about the pattern. The fit, the instructions, the fact that I didn't make "any" fit alterations and that all went together very easy. Fabric Used: I used a black and white boucle. Black Bemberg Lining. I also interfaced the whole jacket. Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made no fitting alterations to this pattern. Design changes I made: I love bound buttonholes so that's what I made instead of the normal machine stitched button holes. I also added cording around the collar. I did not totally "bag" the lining. I sewed it by machine but didn't sew the bottom as instructed. I finished the lining hem with a decorative stitch and then sewed it by hand to the jacket hem.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes I will sew this again. But I think next time it will be with a plain fabric -no matching lines :) Cutting the pieces single layer, making sure everything matches, pockets/body/sleeves- takes much longer. Also more care has to be taken when sewing pieces together. I don't mind doing all this, I do truly like the end result, it was worth all the time and effort. (There maybe the odd line that doesn't totally match up :) but overall I am pleased.) I would highly recommend this pattern.

. Conclusion:I really like the fit and look of this jacket. I brought this jacket to work to show my friend and she, and all my co-workers, loved the jacket. I received allot of compliments. One of the guys from another office wants me to make one for his wife - as a Christmas gift. I was pretty pleased with the response :) I will take pictures of the inside of the jacket and add them to this post tomorrow.

Do you have a Favorite Yves Saint Laurent Outfit?

2008-06-02T20:22:00.010-03:00

This is my very favorite...Mondrian Cocktail Dress (1965) Models present dresses inspired by painter Piet Mondrian during Yves Saint Laurent's farewell show at the Georges Pompidou Center in Paris in 2002 . (Pictures are from Fashion Today.)

Legendary designer Yves Saint Laurent dies at 71

2008-06-01T22:07:00.023-03:00

Here are a couple of great Vintage patterns from this talented Fashion Designer: Vogue Paris Original 1569; 1960s; Yves Saint Laurent - Suit and Blouse. .Pictures from: http://vintagepatterns.wikia.com/wiki/Category:Yves_Saint_Laurent Here's more information: http://www.canadaeast.com/search/article/312562 http://www.thestarpress.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20080601/NEWS06/80601045 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yves_Saint-Laurent_%28designer%29

Ann's Coat- The Great Coat Sew-Along

2008-06-01T19:12:00.013-03:00

I kept reading everyone's post on the Coat Sew Along site and was getting very nervous that I still had not found my fabric. Everyone has such nice fabrics for their coats. So today I was going to find something.....and I did.

I was being very stubborn and wanted to buy my fabric here instead of ordering on line. Only because I wanted to feel the fabric before I bought it. So the choice was limited because where I live the winter fabrics are not out, all but one little table of about 10- light to medium weight wools -that was it.

Not exactly the wools I was looking for. So I just changed my plan from a heavy winter coat to a lighter fall- to mild winter coat. It was very hard to photogragh this fabric.

This fabric is somewhat medium weight. The clour is a dark charcoal with specs of different colours running thru it. The red is a bright red, not pink as it appears in the picture. I was actually going to be bold,(for me) and get the matching red Kasha lining, but at the last minute went for the grey tone, which matches perfectly with the grey in the fabric.

This colour is more accurate. I love the colours, the feel and the weight of this fabric. It will make a very comfortable coat.

I am still very undecided on the pattern. It will be either Butterick 5145 (View B), McCall's 5247 (ViewC) or Neue Mode 23215 (view B). I bought enough fabric for whichever one. I'm leaning towards B5145? I would change the pockets to welt pockets with a flap.

I'm also still looking thru the few BWOF magazines I have just in case something catches my attention. All in all a great day!

The Great Coat Sew-Along

2008-05-17T20:32:00.020-03:00

For those that may be interested - Marji is organizing a Coat Sew-Along * for July * and I have joined. My sewing time has been at an all time low - non exsistent really - but if I join then I know I will participate. She has set up a group blog so we can all post as we go. She has started posting great information on this new Blog called "The Great Coat Sew-Along". I'm hoping to decide on my pattern this week end and then post my choice. ******************************************** ************** Sigrid posted a great link to the Burda site - Styles of Spring/Summer 66. I love this sleeveless dress/jacket!....... and the Jacket Sigrid posted on her site. . . Picture from the Burda site. The dresses are awesome, very stylish. Unfortunately the patterns are not for sale. Maybe ebay is an option? They also have Autumn 56/57 styles. There are some very nice patterns here too but my favorites are from the "66" Fashions.

Chado Ralph Rucci - Exhibition

2008-05-12T20:21:00.015-03:00

Ivory double-faced silk and wool twill jacket and skirt with orange "suspension" insets.

Chado Ralph Rucci, Haute Couture spring/summer 2005 Collection.

Thank You so much Paco for pointing out The Kent State University Museum site. I see why you said the fabric must be "noble".

Curator Anne Bissonnette wrote "While Mr. Rucci is well-known and admired throughout the international fashion community for his impeccable garments, the Kent State University Museum exhibition represents the first major public display of his work".

These are just a few pictures of Chado Ralph Rucci's collection. All his garments are a piece of art. I choose these garments because I especially like his "suspension" technique.

Black wool crepe "suspension" dress Chado Ralph Rucci, Haute Couture spring/summer 2005 Collection.

Orange double-faced wool twill dress with "suspension" insets and enameled belt. Chado Ralph Rucci, Haute Couture spring/summer 2005 Collection.

Close up of the "suspension" technique.

Lavender double-faced cashmere brushed-twill jacket with scarf neckline and “suspension” insets worn with a matching skirt. Chado Ralph Rucci, Ready-to-wear fall/winter 2005 Collection .

All pictures are from the Kent State University Museum site.

100 kms - I'm almost there

2008-05-11T22:31:00.002-03:00

I got Mail

2008-05-11T21:24:00.009-03:00

When I came home on Friday my mail order was waiting for me. I received "the" Vogue 1048, Vogue 2920 , I love the pants, and Vogue 8493. My Mother and Father in law are visiting this week end so I haven't had the time to truly read thru Vogue 1048, my favorite. This pattern has caught the attention of many thru blog land and I'm anxious to see others version of this great pattern. Kathryn Brenne wrote an informative article in the June/July Vogue magazine on Chado Ralph Rucci's signature couture technique he calls "suspension". His Vogue 1048 dress just happens to have this tailored touch! It looks like it will be an interesting and fun technique to learn. I am still pondering what fabric to use? It suggests Dupioni, Sateen and Lightweight Linen. The dress made up in white is beautiful but I might go with a blue-ish?? dupioni ???? or stay with the white ?? Not sure at this point, I'll have to look around. Suggestions? :) ....... Hope everyone had a wonderful Mother's Day!

Happy Mother's Day

2008-05-11T14:59:00.000-03:00

I hope all Mom's are having a great day :)

Marley & Me *

2008-04-28T13:09:00.017-03:00

I had to post about a book I just finished reading . "Marley & Me" by John Grogan. What a fantastic story. (true story). It was one of those stories that you instantly fall in love with the main character, in this case Marley, the dog, and what a dog he is. (The family is not too bad either :) The story makes you laugh, out loud laugh and cry....tears rolling down your face cry... It's such a heartwarming story! What is so amazing is that John and Jenny kept Marley and accepted and loved him as he was! I imagine not many could handle a dog like Marley. As you can tell I really enjoyed this story. If you love dogs (or not :) you have to read this book. Marley is a bad dog that you end up loving and almost wishing you had one just like him. And really he's not all that bad.....just a little "attention-deficit, hyperactive, nutty dog, but he had a pure heart and an incredible gift of canine-human empathy". Authors own words :)

How nice that there will be a "Marley & Me" movie - which is scheduled for a Christmas day 2008 release. I'm actually excited and anxious to see it. Owen Wilson and Jennifer Aniston will play the couple who owns Marley, John & Jenny Grogan. There is even a "Marley & Me" Blog

Pictures are from the "Marley & Me" blog.

I'm Still Here

2008-04-24T20:26:00.007-03:00

I wish I had something more exciting to write about but I'm just not having much time to sew or blog. Just so busy .....plain and simple. Hopefully I will have something to post after this week end. Happy Sewing to everyone!

Vogue Dresses * My Favorites *

2008-04-12T19:27:00.080-03:00

I absolutely * love * this dress.......... Vogue 1048 also.........Vogue 8493 . They are both beautiful styles.

Matching Up Lines!

2008-04-11T13:31:00.018-03:00

I just thought I'd post a short update on my Jacket. (V8043) I am moving foward - ever so slowly - but still moving foward. I took great care cutting out the pieces so they would match when sewn together and it was well worth the time and effort as all the lines are matching up nicely, all except the armsyce princess seam ones :{ Thank you AnnR for confirming that some things will just have to be :) and this is one of them. Due to the curve it's just not going to happen. The pockets are basted on and ready for sewing. I'm making the "faux" welt pockets. The fabric is somewhat bulky and I didn't want to add any more bulk. (I still have to add the upper pocket - well the welt.) I'm really hoping to have this jacket done by the week-end so I can start on summer garments. I recieved my fabric from Julie today and I love the white/blue print. It's a Cotton poplin with some stretch (3%lycra). The White Stretch Denim Shantung has 5% stretch. They will make comfy top and pants.

Pictures uploaded from Timmel Fabrics .

I also received a railroad striped cotton, but I'll have to take a picture and post. It's also a very nice cotton.

Neue Mode Patterns * Part 2 *

2008-04-01T18:48:00.006-03:00

I received my order today :) I am very pleased with the patterns. However.... The only one that was out of stock was the one I really wanted - 22471. I'll just keep checking to see if they will get more.

Briefly browsing thru the patterns I noticed that the instuctions are booklet style, approx 7 1/2" by 5". My initial thought was -WOW- this is great, no huge pages, very convenient. I'll see if that is how I feel once I start sewing them up. Hopefully there is enough information on these smaller sheets - but I'm really not too concerned. They all seem quite straight foward.

For the interfacing, for all the patterns that require it, they do use a specific brand that I have never heard of. It is "Vilene" interfacing. Has any one used this interfacing and what brand is it comparable to? (It is a sew in interfacing).

(When I finish my blog posting, if there's time, I'll do a little surfing to see if I can find answers too :)

Also there are letters beside the pattern number. Does anyone know what they stand for

S -M -V. (you can see on picture above).

I'm very anxious to get started on some of these patterns, but first I must finish my Jacket,V8043.

Progress is slow but I'm hoping to have it done this week.

Neue Mode Patterns

2008-03-24T20:21:00.020-03:00

I have been looking at purchasing - on and off -Neue Mode Patterns. I would print out the patterns cover picture that I liked and put them up on my inspirational board. Today I finally decided to actually buy some. A sort of a little pick me up for the past couple of bad weeks. I found several sites that sell them, but the best I found was Mynotions*com. They also have a sale on patterns - for $1.00 . So - yes I did indulge and buy - allot - I have never used these patterns but they appear to be like Burda?? If anyone has used them I would appreciate your input on how they are compared to other pattern companies. I did check out Pattern Review and there are not many reviews. I hope I don't regret my purchase. Here are some of the patterns I bought. I like them all but I really like the 22471 dress.

These pictures are all taken from Mynotions*com site. .....and I do have a few more on my Flicker album that I purchased. I had so much fun shoppping! They are all such nice styles. I'm so anxious to get this parcel in the mail :)

Where has the time gone????

2008-03-22T18:58:00.059-03:00

I can not believe it has been almost a month since I last blogged.

My husband and I took turns getting the cold that was going around - and it was such a nasty one. It seemed to take every bit of energy I had. I still am not my 100% well self, but feel so much better than the past few weeks. Plus throw in a little family matter.....plus a very very busy time at work - with not being able to take time off - and well there it is - a whole month has gone by. Winter like this cold is just hanging on and just doesn't want to go. I'm really ready for some sunshine and warmth :)

It's time to see this.............. ..No more of this * even if it is beautiful *

Pictures are from my home town web site.

These pictures are taken at my in laws house. They live in the same province, but 4 hrs away! They have gotten way too much snow!

I am so happy I am feeling better. I plan on getting back to work on my Vogue 8043 Jacket that I started, weeeeeks ago. It is all cut out and just waiting to be put together. It always seems that all is right when "something" with sewing is being done.

I did buy some fabric from Julie.(Timmel Fabrics). One of the fabrics is a Jersey knit - turquoise colour. It is such a beautiful colour and I plan on making a Jalie sweetheart top with it. I never wear red but when I saw this fabric, I loved the embroidery design and thought it would make such a cute sleeveless shirt.....maybe this one? View B or this one? Something simple in design but nice. The fabric is a nice light weight cotton and might also make a comfy summer pj?

Have a wonderful Easter!

How Cute are These Pin Cushions? :)

2008-02-25T20:20:00.009-04:00

These are my latest ebay purchases....This one is a Pin Cushion..... just toooooo cute....

And then this one is a Pin Cushion - Sewing Box. The top opens up.......

From Els's house - to Ann's house :)

2008-02-18T19:21:00.016-04:00

I received my ham holder from Els today.

Els mailed it on Feb 9th from The Netherlands and I received it today...in New Brunswick....that is very fast....and I was so very pleased to receive it. I have been looking for a ham holder for quite sometime, and had asked if anyone knew where I could possibly find one, since "nobody" anywhere sells these any more? Els kindly offered to sell me hers since she hardly used it. I just love it and I know I will enjoy using it. Thank You so much again Els.

*Note* For those who have not yet read Els post on her blog about "Presssing Equipment-Part 1 & 2", be sure to read them, they are full of great information - I really enjoyed reading them.

I have pretty much all the - fabric -lining - interfacing cut out for my Jacket * V8043 (View B). Seems like I am only getting in 30 minute sewing sessions these days ....so it's taking so long to actually see any progress.... not only was there allot to cut but I chose fabric that needed to be matched up. Now putting it together begins :)

Last week I also received my Jalie 2794 Sweetheart Top Pattern from Julie. I am really anxious to make this top. I love the style. Now I need to find some really nice knit fabric.

Vogue Jacket # 8043

2008-02-04T19:24:00.001-04:00

I've been fitting my muslin for Vogue Jacket # 8043 - View B . I had to take it in at the front/back princess seams, side seams and took up the sleeve shoulder seam. I am very happy with the final results- however I see that I should have just made a size smaller and it would have probably been close to a perfect fit . I'll do a final measuring/comparing with the smaller size and then be ready to start my jacket :) (I'll post pictures next entry)

My Fitness * Jogging Chart *

I run pretty much every day so I thought keeping track of the distance I actually run might be fun to do. (Starting date today) I am now running inside, because it has been rather cold out lately, but when the nice weather returns I'll be running outside - even though the inside track is top of the line - it's so much nicer running outdoors. I've put 100 km on the "ticker" but will change it as I go beyond that distance..... (This little "ticker will be displayed at the bottom of my blog page)

Lost - Is Back - Yay!

2008-01-31T19:34:00.000-04:00

We are "Lost" fans in this house and we are sooooooooo happy it's back - a 2 hour Premiere tonight :)

Picture from www.tv.com http://image.com.com/tv/images/processed/super/52/e1/174361.jpg

Re-Thinking Pattern Drafting

2008-01-19T14:01:00.000-04:00

Patternmaking for Fashion Design. - Helen Joseph-Armstrong (4th Edition)

Designing Apparel Through the Flat Pattern - Ernestein Kopp, Vittorine Rolfo, Beatrice Zelin, Lee Gross (6th Edition)

Metric Pattern Cutting - Winifred Aldrich

Dress Pattern Designing- Natalie Bray (5th Edition)

Make Your Own Patterns - Rene Bergh

I've been thinking lately I'd like to re-visit Pattern Drafting. (Maybe because I'm having a drafting/cutting table made :) (Not Pattern Drafting using a software program.)

A couple of years ago I took a Pattern Drafting Course - Intro to Fashion, at my local college. It's part of a Fashion Design program. I haven't really touched pattern drafting I believe since I finished that course. I've done the odd pattern alteration,but not drafting. I learned so much from this course. Pattern drafting can be lots of fun, and as I found out it was not as hard as I first imagined. Mind you I can say that "now" after someone "showed" me how to do it. ( I made a doll size sample of a skirt pattern I drafted for myself). I found it so much better to learn hands on, than to try and figure it out from a book. Now when I use these books I find it easier to follow. The books posted above were very helpful during this cousre. My favorites were "Patternmaking for Fashion Design" and "Designing Apparel through the Flat Pattern". The "Metric Pattern Cutting" book was also an excellent reference. These are all great books to have in your sewing library.

I've been asked by different people in the past if I'd make them an outfit for a special occasion. At this point I don't feel confident enough to take up a request like that, and I normally don't have that kind of time to put into such a project. There are so many wonderful patterns out there and I love having them in my "collection" - but to be able to draft your own pattern feels like a great accomplishment. However - it is so much more time consumimg, and when reality sets in, it's easier to just take a commercial pattern and work with it. Which is what I've been doing. So I'm going to re-visit my notebooks, work on and improve the skills I've learned. In between making garments with my bought patterns, I'll work on drafting my own patterns too. When there is no time line for a garment it's such a pleasure working on it, and everything seems to go along just fine. That's just how I'll approach pattern drafting :)

Teal Silk Doupioni Top - Vogue 8391

2008-01-11T21:56:00.000-04:00

I made View A because I just love the neckline style.

The colour is close but I just cannot get it right with my camera.It looks more vibrant like this picture.

Silk Baron

My inspiration for this top was Kathryn's top.

View A - is sleevless and I wanted 3/4 length sleeves - View C.

So I made the appropriate changes to the front/back pattern pieces to accomodate the sleeves.

As previously reported on Stitchers Guild I knew there was going to be issues with the fit of the armhole. I made my muslin with no alterations, other than the changes for the sleeves, as I wanted to see exactly how it would fit. Sure enough , it was quite tight. However the rest of the top fit just fine.

This is a very fitted top and the armhole is high.This style has practically no "ease" at the armhole, and it was definetly pulling -enough to say it was uncomfortable. I made adjustments on my muslin, till the fit was right. It took allot of fiddling -- it's still a fitted top, but it doesn't feel snug under the arms anymore.

I then transferred these adjustments to my pattern pieces.

The adjustments were:

4 added to the armhole on the front and back pattern pieces

4lowered the armhole depth and

4 adjusted the sleeve cap.

I made another muslin, just to be sure and the fit felt perfect.

I was really happy that my adjustments ended up being quite minor and not too difficult. The fabric is a very vibrant teal colour and I could not find serger thread to match "perfectly",

so I finished the seams by folding each seam allowance toward the seam, refolding it to one side and machine blanket stitching.

I embroidered a design on the front - this fabric embroiders really well.

I only lined the front pieces that I embroidered. I pondered doing it this way for quite some time. The fabric is fairly light but it feels nice as is. I knew I'd wear it with a camisole too, so I really didn't want to line the whole top.

To make the lining I simply made a lining pattern from the origianl front pattern piece, removing the facing and adding a 5/8" seam allowance. I used silk charmeuse for the lining.

When I attached the facing/lining I also sewed in clear elastic in the front neckline.

The only thing that holds this top closed are the ties, and that is really not enough to feel secure. I added snap fasteners along the front panel. I don't know how you could wear this top without doing this :)

I down sized the ties - length and width - and I tie them in the back.

The overall construction of this top was very easy. The silk doupioni was great to work with.

I believe I can call this a TNT pattern :)

All Work....and no Play

2008-01-10T23:04:00.000-04:00

I'm back to work and just too tired to sew much....But I have managed to do some work on a top...Vogue 8391. I hope to have it done this week end. Will post when complete.