TravelingFood

A Delightful Dinner Detour

2008-11-07T05:36:00.000-08:00

Because the old city of Quebec was cordoned off with security to protect the dignitaries that were in town for the French summit, we had to cancel our dinner reservations because we simply couldn’t get there. No cars were allowed in that part of town at all.

My hostess from Quebec Tourism ended up taking me to a wonderful little place just down the street from the Hotel Royal William call Le Clocher Penché, and it turned out to be one of those happy accidents where you discover a real gem that you wouldn’t have ever considered.

The cozy corner restaurant has an excellent wine list (almost 200 bottles) and small, but eclectic menu filled with foodie favorites like ox tail and calf sweetbreads. Our server told us that two of the popular house specialties are the Headcheese appetizer, pork grills with lentils and gribiche sauce, and the Blood Pudding entrée with apple tarte tatin and salad.

Since eating internal organs and animal blood is not my thing, I chose the creamy tomato soup topped with crème fraiche and the Free-Range Chicken with a potato gratin, as well as a lovely glass of red wine. My friend, who eats often at Le Clocher Penché, had one of her favorites, the Salmon Tartare with potato salad and pink peppercorns.

The service was excellent and the food was even better. We both warmed up on the chilly night with the soup de jour. My chicken was perfectly cooked…nice and brown on the outside and juicy on the inside…and it sat atop a slice of potato gratin. And if you love salmon, the tartare was fabulous.

This charming bistro is one of the standout dining destinations of the lower city, and definitely worth a visit. (203 rue Saint-Joseph Est, 418 640-0597)

My Sing-Along Dinner

2008-11-04T04:39:00.000-08:00

In general, hotel food is usually in the same dismal category as airline food, but this is not the case at the Hotel Royal William in Quebec (www.royalwilliam.com). Their restaurant, Le Sainte-Victoire, which features traditional French cuisine and regional favorites, is very popular with local residents. On Friday and Saturday nights, a pianist plays classic tunes and it’s not unusual for both patrons and waiters to burst into song.

That’s exactly what happened on the Friday evening I dined at Le Sainte-Victoire. The party of four next to me joined in on Edith Piaf’s “La Vie en Rose”, with a little help from their waiter who had a pretty decent baritone. Combined with the cozy ambiance of the small dining room, it was like being at a fun dinner party.

I started with a mushroom and puff pastry appetizer, which was as pretty as it was tasty, and followed that with a traditional steak au poivre with hand-cut fries. Dining alone is usually boring, but a nice glass of Pinot Noir and the convivial entertainment made this solo meal really enjoyable.

The next morning, I returned to the same dining room for the breakfast that’s included in the room rate. You can choose from several hot dishes from French toast to a spinach and mushroom omelet, or opt for the French-style breakfast of fresh, crusty baguettes, croissants, and pastries. I tried the French toast on my first morning, and the bread basket on my second day, which was so generous that I saved some of the pastry for a mid-afternoon snack. While I’m not sure why the hotel is called the Royal William, I did receive the royal treatment at my meals there.

Having a Bowl of Coffee at Le Cochon Dingue

2008-11-03T04:48:00.001-08:00

I recently returned from one of my favorite cities, Quebec. I had never visited in the fall and the foliage was just spectacular. It was also the final week of the city’s year-long 400th anniversary celebration and the weekend of the global French summit, so the city was packed with the leaders of the French-speaking countries of the world, as well about 1000 Canadian law enforcement officers brought in to augment local security. I saw the motorcade of Nicolas Sarkozy, the President of France, but didn’t actually get a glimpse of the famous leader. Most of the dignitaries were ensconced in my favorite hotel, the Chateau Frontenac and it was off-limits to the public during their visit.

I stayed in the lower city this time, which is becoming a trendy entertainment district filled with boutiques, restaurants, and clubs. The Hotel Royal William (www.royalwilliam.com) is within walking distance of most of those, although it’s about a $5 cab ride to the Old City.

Since I had arrived on an early morning flight, the cerulean sky and flaming foliage were a perfect backdrop for a day of exploring so I headed into the Old City to see the new promenade along the St. Lawrence River. This two-and-half-mile waterside park, along with a pier and observation tower, is a gorgeous track for biking, walking, or rollerblading. It was one of the major improvements that the city made during the 400th celebration, wanting to give their residents the gift of riverside access as a permanent and tangible reminder of the year-long party.

After climbing the observation tower to enjoy the panoramic views, I headed into the lower part of the Old City to warm up at Le Cochon Dingue (www.cochondingue.com). You’ll see this sign of the rosy, happy pig in other parts of the city as the restaurant has other locations, but this one has a busy take-out bakery and café on its lower level with a wide variety of soups, sandwiches, quiche, and pizza. It was a bit brisk out, so I chose and soup and sandwich combination…hearty tomato soup with a fresh baguette stuffed with brie and ham…and I also ordered a café au lait for an energizing infusion of caffeine.

There’s something really fun about drinking coffee out of a cereal-sized bowl, which offers the side benefit of warming up your hands in chilly weather. I wish now I had purchased a couple of the cute bowls, decorated with the pink pig logo, so that I could have my morning coffee French-style.

Stairway to Tuscany

2008-10-02T05:34:00.001-07:00

I’ve been exploring my home state of Virginia while updating a guidebook on the region, and during my travels, I’ve discovered wonderful new places to eat in the heart of the historic small towns of the state. In 2009, Virginia will celebrate the 40th anniversary of its Virginia is for Lovers campaign, but they may want to change that to “Virginia is for Food Lovers”!

The charming town of Fredericksburg is about 60 miles north of Richmond and is full of colonial and civil war history. Often overlooked for the more highly publicized Williamsburg, Fredericksburg is well worth a visit and full of wonderful restaurants. I recently ate at the Poppy Hill Tuscan Kitchen, a “farm-to-table” restaurant that is garnering foodie raves around the country.

Sourcing their food from local farmers, the rustic Tuscan fare is not only about as close to that of their namesake as possible, but also a great value. My friend and I started with the Antipasto Platter ($9) and could have made our entire meal from that one bountiful starter. A platter loaded with artisanal cheeses, proscuitto, salami, roasted garlic, red peppers, tomatoes, and olives was topped with crostini. Grab a bottle of one of the many good Chianti’s on the wine list and this is absolutely heaven on a plate!

Homemade soups like the Tomato Basil Bisque were tough to resist, but since I had gorged on the generous antipasto, I went straight to the entrée list for a spicy shrimp diavlo. Other options that I passed up included Saffron Roasted Salmon, Balsamic-glazed Chicken, and of course, hearty pastas with Bolognese, Marinara or Alfredo sauces. As it turned out, I still had to pack a doggy bag as, again, the portions were very large.

Open for lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch, the prices are incredibly reasonable, with lunch in the $7.95-$9.95 range, and dinner from $14.95-$19.95. The thoughtful wine list includes some of Italy’s best reds and whites and the cozy atmosphere of this cellar encourages a long leisurely lunch or dinner. www.ciaopoppyhill.com

Finding Room at the Inn

2008-08-27T07:19:00.000-07:00

Hidden in these unabashedly simple farming communities and small towns is one of the most romantic inns in Virginia, a member of the Select Registry of Distinguished Inns of North America. The Inn at Vaucluse Springs, midway between Winchester and Belle Grove Plantation, dates back to Federal days and features six private guest houses on 100 acres of rolling orchards.

The 200-year-old Manor House serves as the gathering spot for an elegant three-course breakfast and end-of-the-day socializing over fresh lemonade and cookies or a glass of regional wine. The Old Mill House, once an artist’s studio, sits at the spring’s edge, while the Gallery Guest House offers panoramic meadow views. Innkeepers Neil and Barry Myers offer genial country hospitality, elegant accommodations, and first-class food that have earned them top accolades for almost two decades.

My guest cottage was totally charming with a rustic ambience and upscale amenities including a gas fireplace, huge bathtub with jets, and gourmet coffee. I could have comfortably moved in for months, and the view from my balcony was peaceful. I had morning coffee out there and watched the rabbits and squirrels play in the trees and gently rolling hills beside the gurgling creek.

Breakfast was a three-course affair with attentive and friendly service. We started with delicious berry muffins, still warm from the oven and then moved on to homemade applesauce topped with crème fraiche. The main course was Eggs Vaucluse, a tasty scramble with fresh veggies, artisanal cheese, and a side of turkey sausage. Neil and Barry are happy to accommodate special dietary needs and requests, and you won’t need to ask twice. A couple at the next table were worried that their vegetarian meal had been forgotten, but no sooner had they voiced their concern to the server , their special meal arrived at the table.

All of the ingredients are regionally sourced, and many come from the nearby Marker-Miller Farmer’s Market, which the innkeepers highly recommend visiting. They’re also very knowledgeable about the wineries in the region, and happy to assist guests with directions. www.vauclusespring.com

Crazy for the Wayside Theater

2008-08-26T17:17:00.000-07:00

Middletown is also home to the second oldest regional theater company in Virginia, and the newly renovated Wayside Theater and its adjoining Curtain Call Café are a wonderful place to spend an entertaining evening. I was fortunate enough to attend the opening night of Always, Patsy Cline which was a huge event for the community, not only because the popular country singer hails from these parts, but also because the theater had been closed for a massive renovation for over a year, and this was its debut performance in the new and improved space.

The Curtain Call Café next door offers a relaxing space to grab a drink before or after the performance, as well as at intermission. On the opening night, they hosted a cocktail reception with light appetizers for the sold-out crowd.

Some of Patsy Cline’s family were in the audience, along with the movers and shakers of the town who spearheaded the fundraising drive to renovate the historic theater.

Not Eating Dinner at the Wayside Inn

2008-08-13T10:54:00.000-07:00

On my recent visit to the Shenandoah Valley, I was invited to have dinner at the Wayside Inn in Middletown, just a few miles outside of Winchester on Route 11. I was going to the opening night performance of Always, Patsy Cline at the newly renovated Wayside Theatre right down the street, so it seemed like a great plan.

Unfortunately, wicked thunderstorms delayed my arrival and by the time I arrived at the Wayside, all I had time for was a quick soup and salad, and a slice of chocolate cake. I did get a brief tour of the historic restaurant, including a peek at what used to be the slave kitchens, but is now a dining room. The Inn/Restaurant/Antique store used to be a stagecoach stop and is definitely worth a stop to look around and browse through the collectibles. I just wish I had actually had time to have a full meal.

Oddly enough, a couple dining next to us turned out to be old acquaintances from my days in the music biz, a member of the Baltimore band Crack the Sky and his lovely wife. They had been to the Wayside about a year previously and the manager remembered them.

Desirable Real Estate at The Cork Street Tavern

2008-08-04T12:53:00.001-07:00

During the Civil War, the town of Winchester changed hands over 70 times. One of the oldest streets in the historic town, Cork Street, was named by Lord Fairfax in 1759 and is home to one of the oldest taverns in the area. Known for its hearty sandwiches and barbequed ribs, The Cork Street Tavern was a perfect choice for lunch on the day I explored the area.

I started with the rib appetizer, and as promised, the ribs were fall-off-the-bone tender and perfectly seasoned. I had a few friends with me for lunch, so we all ordered different sandwiches so I could get a good sampling of the tavern fare. The crab cake sandwich passed the Eastern Shore test—more crab than breading—and the bacon burger with a healthy helping of fries was as good as any I’ve had. The only disappointment was the pulled pork BBQ sandwich, which was not nearly as good as the ribs and was drowning in sauce. Less is always more when it comes to barbeque, I think.

The tavern is old, full of wood and the requisite animal heads, and definitely has the ambiance of a place that has been around for quite some time. It’s located on the edge of the pedestrian-only shopping area in the center of town, which is filled with boutiques and local shops. (8 West Cork Street, Winchester, VA (540) 667-3777) www.virginia.org/site/description.asp?attrID=29632

A Bath, Bed, and Breakfast

2008-07-26T04:53:00.001-07:00

A Bath and Breakfast

Soaking in the Jefferson Pools was really cool, and just one of the “walking in the footsteps of history” experiences that Virginia is filled with…like the tale of George Washington throwing a silver dollar across the river, you can’t throw a rock in Virginia without hitting a historical site. And, it’s easy to imagine our early leaders and socialites retiring to The Homestead in the summers to take the waters and socialize. I talked with an employee who had been working at the resort for over 40 years, and she remembers the days when you walked into the lobby after 5 p.m. and the dazzle of jewels would be shooting rays of light off the walls.

Things are more business casual these days, but breakfast is still an elegant affair in the Main Dining Room, with one of the largest buffets I’ve ever seen. Literally rows and rows of banquet tables hold silver chafing dishes filled with everything from cheese blintzes, waffles and pancakes to every kind of breakfast meat and side dish imaginable. Egg stations on both ends will prepare anything you request, if you manage to have room left after the pastry and fruit table.

Breakfast and dinner are included in the hotel’s meal plan, the best value at the resort, and special packages available on their website make a weekend here an affordable splurge. www.thehomestead.com

Hanging Out With Thomas Jefferson

2008-07-17T08:41:00.001-07:00

I just got back from a weekend at one of the most historic resorts in Virginia, The Homestead in Hot Springs. Since 1766, America’s presidents and most prestigious families have been retreating to this mountain resort for a little R & R, a lot of golf, and to take advantage of the therapeutic springs.

The view of the stately red brick colonial hotel is breathtaking when you arrive. Decorated in colonial style, The Homestead has a laid back, Southern vibe where casual golf and tennis clothes are replaced by jacket and tie for dinner in the Main Dining Room. The resort offers a European-style meal plan which includes dinner and breakfast, definitely a better value than booking your room separately, especially since other dining options off property are minimal. This is a resort made for extended stays, whose slogan is “your home away from home”.

My sister and I took the hotel shuttle to the nearby Jefferson Pools in Warm Springs to soak up a little history. It is widely accepted that regular visitor, Thomas Jefferson, designed the octagonal-shaped men’s bath structure. You can soak in either that pool or the women’s pool for $17 an hour in the warm mineral springs that have been rejuvenating weary travelers since George Washington’s day. In the women’s bath, there’s a chair on a platform with a pulley mechanism that may be the first handicapped-accessible bathing in America. It was designed for Robert E. Lee’s invalid wife so that she could partake of the healing waters. Feeling very relaxed after floating in the bath-tempature mountain waters, we headed back to The Homestead to dress for dinner in the Main Dining Room.

This elegant ballroom is filled with sparkling crystal chandeliers and tables are set around a central dance floor. A three-piece combo played classic tunes, and fathers took their daughters for a spin before and after dinner.

The dinner menu offers several selections of appetizers, entrées, and desserts, and special dietary needs can be easily accommodated. For my starter, I chose the portabello mushrooms wrapped in phyllo with goat cheese and beets. The sweet beets were a wonderful complement to the chalky goat cheese. For my entrée, I went for the fresh Mountain Trout, a local specialty that the resort’s fly fishing outfitter will teach you to catch in one of the mountain streams. It was perfectly cooked, crispy on the outside and moist on the inside.

Unfortunately, there was no chocolate on the dessert menu and since I was stuffed anyway, I retired to my room in the West Wing to rest up for the gigantic buffet breakfast. www.TheHomestead.com

Breakfast Under Glass

2008-07-06T12:45:00.001-07:00

My breakfast in the Main Dining Room of the Greenbrier was elegant, and my server, Joyce, had great stories since she has worked there for 40 years. She recommended the Eggs Benedict, which are included in the huge buffet, so I ordered those and then set off to load my plate with raspberry stuffed brioche, blueberry Belgian waffles, fresh fruit, quiche lorraine, and tons of other goodies.

By the time I returned to my table, Joyce was approaching with my beautiful eggs. I devoured those and moved on to the dessert portion of my morning meal. It’s good that experts say you should have a hearty breakfast, because I ate as much at that one meal as I usually do in a whole week.

Dinners here are formal (jacket and tie required), but breakfast is resort casual. Even at breakfast, the chandeliers are magnificent, setting the tone for an elegant meal

Gourmet Golf at the Greenbrier

2008-07-04T06:09:00.000-07:00

Growing up in Washington, D.C., I had heard about the fabulous Greenbrier Resort in West Virginia for as long as I can remember. My mother, who worked at the Pentagon in the Defense Department, knew about the secret bunker built into a hillside at the resort that was intended to house Congress in the event of a nuclear attack, but never said a word about it until it was declassified in the early 90’s. Finally, this past weekend, I had a chance to visit both the bunker and the restaurants at this incredible mountain retreat in the Allegheny Highlands.

My sister, her daughter Susie, and grandson Joe, accompanied me and we started with dinner at the Sam Snead Golf Club. No burgers and club sandwiches here…touted as the “casual” dining room (no jackets and ties required), the Club overlooks one of the beautifully manicured golf courses at the resort. I started with the huge sea scallops, while Susie chose the Beef Carpaccio. Both were wonderfully tender and tasty, and I couldn’t wait for my “Maine” course, lobster.

I wasn’t disappointed. If lobster isn’t fresh, it can be as chewy as a rubber band, but this was melt-in-your-mouth pleasure, and the savory broth full of vegetables was complemented the rich and buttery taste of the crustacean. My nephew, Joe, only had a bowl of French Onion soup, since he already had his eye on dessert, a raspberry crème brulée.

He pronounced it the “best” of all the crème brulées he’s ever had, and even waited for 10 seconds to dive in, so I could snap a picture. The table next to us burst out laughing, whispering and pointing at us when I whipped out my camera to capture the dishes we had ordered. I guess they thought we were a bunch of hillbillies who had never eaten at a nice restaurant, and that’s why we were taking pictures of our food.

Eating brettljause in Richmond

2008-06-24T10:53:00.000-07:00

What I absolutely loved about the European Market & Café was its selection of some of my favorite European products. Located on West Main Street near Virginia Commonwealth University, this place does a roaring take-out business with its gourmet sandwiches, soups, and ready-to-heat selections.

I had dropped by for lunch and as it was very busy, ended up creating my own menu from the take-out offerings. This is the perfect place to pick up not only lunch or dinner, but also an impromptu picnic. A great cheese display stocks some of my favorite French brie and a triple cream called Saint André that I’ve had difficulty finding, and the meat section includes an Italian ham called speck that I love.

They also have an excellent selection of European beers, with several good German and Belgian choices, including a great, lemony summer beer called Stiegl. What’s nice is that you can buy these as singles or mix and match a six-pack and get a 10% discount on the total. Often it’s harder to find these imported beers than to find European wines, but the Café stocks a decent selection of those as well, alongside olive oils, condiments, pastas, and chocolate from Italy, France, Spain, and Germany.

If you’re a fan of antipasto, you can create your own platter ($9.95-$14.95) or you can build a cheese or paté sampler of your favorites. I love the traditional European snack, called Brettljause by the Austrians, which is a selection of cold cuts, cheeses, and garnishes, and the European Market has the authentic ingredients to create one of your own. In fact, I got to know GoNomad’s editor, Max Hartshorne, over several glasses of good wine and beer and several boards of Brettljause.

The vodka and marinara sauces are packaged in take-home sizes, as are the desserts which include cannolis ($3), a Molten Lava soufflé ($4), several flavors of Italian Gelato and Sorbet ($5.95 a pint),individual brownies and cookies, and a “pastry du jour”, which was a luscious apple and raisin tart on the day of my visit. I couldn’t resist adding a dollop of whipped cream to that when I got home.

Since a huge part of the European Market’s business is take-out, complete menus for the lunch and dinner fare, as well as for catering, are available to take home. Because this is a small place with limited staff, eating lunch or dinner in the Café is going to be continental in timing as well, so if you’re in a hurry, call in your order for pick-up.

www.euromarketgourmet.com

My First Garden Tea

2008-06-08T18:50:00.000-07:00

I went to my first garden tea a few days ago, and not in just any garden. The Lewis Ginter Botanical Gardens in Richmond are one of the city’s best-kept secrets. Located on the north side of town in an area called Lakeside, the site features several themed gardens including a healing garden and a brand new rose garden, as well as a conservatory with a wonderful display of orchids and tropical plants.

There's also a special children’s area which is part playground, part garden, part learning center and in addition to the casual café where you can get snacks to enjoy on the grounds, there’s a lovely Tea House that should be called the Tree House, since it’s nestled high in the green canopy and is walled with windows.

I had a very serene and ladylike lunch, and sampled some Southern favorites including shrimp and grits. More contemporary entrees included a panini with brie and peaches, as well as a variety of soups and salads, and the prices were very reasonable in the $5 to $10 range. Desserts ran the gamut from a light mango sorbet to a decadent chocolate brownie sundae, which came with a large dish of whole walnuts so that you could garnish it to your heart’s content.

The garden hosts a wide variety of special events from jazz concerts and wine tastings in the Rose Garden to a Fidos After 5 event every Thursday where visitors can bring their leashed and well-behaved pooches for an evening stroll. There’s also a huge gift shop that’s worthy of visit in and of itself, as it contains not only everything imaginable for the would-be gardener, but handcrafted jewelry, gift items, and art.

The garden is open daily from 9-5, and in the evenings for special events. www.lewisginter.org

LuLu's is One

2008-05-28T13:16:00.001-07:00

Everyone told me that LuLu’s was one of the new hot spots in Richmond, so I decided to check it out. Located in trendy Shockoe Bottom, LuLu’s is modeled after the hip, martini-crowd restaurants in New York with industrial piping on the ceiling and modern art on the walls.

The food is upscale, urban comfort food so I decided to try their spin on one of my favorites, mac and cheese. Called High-Falootin’ Mac and Cheese With Grilled Shrimp, the dish was very disappointing. Five very small (and most likely frozen) shrimp sat atop a mountain of penne pasta tossed with white cheddar, gruyère, and gorgonzola cheese.

The cheese wasn’t totally melted and had been nowhere near an oven, so my favorite part of mac and cheese, the slightly burnt cheesy crust on top, was missing. Had it been a homerun, the $18 price tag wouldn’t have bothered me, but I was wincing over dropping almost $20 on this bland entrée. Fortunately, my appetizer of Fried Green Tomatoes with a spicy remoulade had been really wonderful and filled me up.

One glass of wine, one appetizer, and one entrée totaled $38, so this is not an inexpensive nosh. Service was so-so…my waiter was efficient, if not friendly, although the cute young hostess was a sweetheart.

With prices at an all time high, I would expect more from an eatery in this price range. www.lu-lusrichmond.com

Visiting the Farmer's Market

2008-05-21T19:06:00.000-07:00

One of my favorite things about European cities are the bounty of outdoor food markets. I got up early on Saturday to visit my local market, just down the hill from my house at 17th Street near Richmond’s old train station. This area is called Shockoe Bottom and is a foodie destination, as there are several cool restaurants lining either side of the Farmer's Market. A few years ago, this whole low-lying neighborhood flooded badly, but now it's back and better than ever.

It’s a fairly small market, and it’s early in the season, so not all of the booths were filled. In addition to freshly picked strawberries, tomatoes and squash, there were several vintage dealers with treasures from the past to peruse. I bought my veggies for the week, some of the sweet strawberries to make that Southern classic…strawberry shortcake...and also scored a great deal on a 9 x 12 Karastan rug. Forget going to the M-A-U-L, I was in shopping heaven!

FInding Europe in Richmond

2008-05-12T11:49:00.000-07:00

It’s always exciting when you find a really wonderful restaurant, and even more so, when that place brings back memories of the food you’ve had on your travels. I never expected to find such a gem in Richmond, Virginia but the tiny Café Rustica on Main Street in the heart of downtown is a treasure.

Chef /owner Andy Howell spent several years living in Germany, which must be where the large, chalet-style cuckoo clock over the bar comes from, so I decided to try one of my favorites from that region, Schwieneschnitzel. It was really crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, and came with a great, tangy red cabbage. You have to eat schnitzel while it’s really hot, so I gobbled it down and barely had room for dessert, but what self-avowed chocoholic can resist something called “Chocolate Paté?”

My friend had the rosemary oven-roasted chicken (Pollo Asado) which was delivered on a hot skillet with roasted potatoes and fresh asparagus. I had a taste (or three) of that as well, and it was wonderful. In fact, I’ll have to go back as everything on the menu sounded wonderful. Described as “European Comfort Food”, Café Rustica is definitely going to be a favorite of mine.

I overheard several locals at the bar chatting, and one had been a patron of Chef Andy since his first venture in Richmond almost 20 years ago. That kind of loyalty is the best kind of compliment, and I’m eager to join the fan club. (414 E. Main Street, (804) 225-8811)

Virginia is For Lovers

2008-05-07T06:42:00.001-07:00

This is my new home in historic Church Hill in Richmond. Just a few blocks from my house, Patrick Henry gave a rousing speech at St. John’s Church during the Revolutionary War, and this city is loaded with Civil War historical sites as well. I’m excited to be spending the summer in my home state, and have unearthed my original Virginia is for Lovers t-shirt to celebrate my homecoming.

Also right down the street from house is the 17th Street Farmers Market, which I plan to explore this weekend and a ton of trendy eateries in Shockoe Bottom near the old red brick train depot. Virginia food is about a lot more than peanuts, so look for some more Richmond dining spots soon.

Visiting Virginia's First Ice Bar

2008-04-27T15:33:00.000-07:00

Richmond, Virginia is buzzing about Infuzion’s Ice Lounge, not only a first for the city, but for the U.S. as well, according to their website. If donning an insulated parka and gloves and drinking cocktails “in the rocks” sounds like your style, this is the place. Your $15 buys you 30 chilly minutes in the cavern where the tables, bar, and highball glasses are all made of frozen H2O. You’ll also get a “been there, done that” souvenir photo from your session. If you’ve ever been to the Ice Hotel in Sweden or Quebec, this closet-sized ice bar housed in walk-in freezer won’t be very impressive, but for Richmond residents and those who haven’t ever visited the grand scale ice palaces, Infuzion is big news and something different to do.

But, there’s much more happening at this hip venue than just chilling out in a frozen tavern. Also inside this renovated 1940’s-era warehouse in the historic Scott’s Addition neighborhood are a cosmopolitan dance club and a new tapas-style lounge.

www.infuzionlounge.com

Red, White,and Drunk All Over

2008-04-21T17:50:00.000-07:00

Natalie Maclean’s new book is a self-proclaimed “wine-soaked journey from grape to glass” and is as much fun to read as the title suggests. This is one wine expert with a good nose, but no snobby attitude. The book has gotten rave reviews from the L.A. Times, The Minneapolis Star Tribune and the Seattle Times to name a few, and if my opinion counts, now from here. Published by Bloomsbury ($14.95),it’s available at most major retailers and online.

It’s a fun way to learn about wine in a Bridget Jones’ Diary sort of moment, and MacLean’s website offers great resources like a food-and-wine matcher with thousands of recipes and wine pairings. She also has a free e-newsletter with tips on wines to buy, and what to store in the cellar. www.nataliemaclean.com

A Fitting Farewell

2008-04-12T03:28:00.000-07:00

On my last night at the Hilton Papagayo, I met a nice couple from California who had just arrived at the resort. They had taken a red-eye and were experiencing serious jet lag, but were trying to reset their internal clock by staying awake until Costa Rican bedtime, something I also do when traveling to get on the local time as soon as possible.

We both had reservations for dinner at the resort’s fine dining outlet, El Dorado, so we decided to share a table. Included in the all-inclusive package (which is ending October 31st when the resort will transition to the standard á la carte Hilton model) are two dinners at either El Dorado or the Italian grill. El Dorado is definitely the way to go with this pick.

The lovely and intimate dining room is located next to the main restaurant near the pool, and the menu is filled with continental classics done Costa Rican style. I chose the seafood medley, sort of a paella without the rice…prawns and lobster and mussels piled high on a pristine white plate. My West Coast friends tried other options, including the local take on filet and mashed potatoes. This is the one outlet on the property where the Executive Chef can show off his talent and was a perfect place for my farewell dinner.

Snack Food Heaven

2008-04-11T13:28:00.000-07:00

At the Hilton Papagayo, the pool is on three levels. On the top level, you can swim, take a water aerobics class, or belly up to the Fuente de Vida bar. On the lower level, a volleyball net is set up and there’s always a game on. On the very bottom level, you can chill out within steps of the poolside grill which has the best lunch offering on the property.

I pigged out on chicken tacos, nachos, and a beef enchilada. Not only is this one of my favorite kinds of food, but when the tortillas are made fresh and the veggies are also right off the vine and tree, it can’t be beat. The grill also makes pizza, hamburgers and a variety of sandwiches and everything looked great. Special orders for the kids are no problem, and the service, as elsewhere in the resort, is incredibly friendly.

Do be careful of the bees that hang out at the soda machine. It’s part of the natural setting…if you want to hang out in an eco-friendly resort, you have to like all the indigenous critters.

Elbow Bending at El Rituel

2008-04-10T17:34:00.000-07:00

The great thing about all-inclusive resorts is that alcoholic drinks are free. So, it’s not surprising that swim-up pool bars like Fuente De Vida at the Hilton Papagayo stay busy throughout the day. The friendly bartender there gave me an insider tip: he said in Costa Rica, locals don’t order “cerveza”…they ask for “una bierra”.

While the swim-up bar stays busy during the day, at 4 p.m. guests begin to gravitate to its landside counterpart, El Ritual. If you want to try a local ‘bierra’, order an Imperial, but with the abundance of fresh fruit here, you’ll definitely also want to try some kind of fruity rum drink or frozen concoction.

While hanging out at El Ritual, I met a really nice young man who is doing charity work in Sri Lanka, and a private pilot who had flown some high roller in for a week at the Four Seasons across the Bay. He said Bill Gate’s plane was also at the airport, so he was obviously over there too, and Michael Jordan owns a house there. On my earlier jet ski tour of the area, we drove by it and at least from the outside, for 10 times the price, it’s got nothing on the Hilton in terms of location or ambiance.

Invite an Iguana to Breakfast

2008-04-09T05:24:00.001-07:00

Iguanas are indigenous to this region, and the property is full of them. One of them sat munching leaves on the bush right in front of my bungalow, and at the outdoor seating areas, they wander around looking for crumbs at breakfast and lunch, and seem totally comfortable with humans invading their space.

The Hilton Papagayo offers two breakfast options, a buffet breakfast at the main restaurant, La Cosecha, and an alfresco breakfast bar by the spa pool. Buffet-style restaurants are somewhat of an oxymoron, as no food that sits in a chafing dish for hours is going to be great. However, La Cosecha has two chef stations with made-to-order omelets, and one where you can get fresh corn tortillas and scrumptious pancakes flavored with vanilla and cinnamon. I had an omelet made which I then stuffed in my tortilla for a custom breakfast taco, and then I had a “dessert” of pancakes topped with syrup and fried plantains.

At Grill Del Fuego by the spa, which is a breakfast and lunch spot by day and an Italian eatery by night, the selection was smaller, but loaded with fresh fruit, a European style meat and cheese selection, cereals, and an omelet station. It’s a beautiful and peaceful spot with views of the water, but beware of leaving your food on the table unattended. Two big blue jays swooped in and tasted my breakfast when I got up to get a pastry, and a large iguana stationed himself by the bar to watch what we were eating, which definitely added to the tropical ambiance.

Costa Rica is very eco-conscious and the Papagayo resort is on government protected land because of the black sand volcanic beach. In addition to experience the natural wildlife, you’ll notice that everywhere on the property are garbage cans for both organic and solid waste.

Partying at the new Hilton Papagayo

2008-04-07T17:07:00.000-07:00

When these folks throw a party, it’s a show stopper! Celebrating the inauguration of Hilton’s new management relationship with the resort at Papagayo, this see-and-be-seen do was a huge deal, not just for the region, but for the entire country of Costa Rica. The President was slated to attend, the secret service had swept the grounds, and the clifftop Presidential Suite was ready, but he had to cancel at the last minute. Still, the Minister of Economy and several of Hilton’s top execs worldwide, as well as the top businessmen and social stars of this Central American country, turned out for the bash that was held poolside.

Scheduled to begin at 6 p.m., a late-breaking thunderstorm could have rained on Hilton’s parade, but the incredibly friendly and hard-working hotel staff managed to pack everything up, wait until the rain ended, and put it all back together again in just an hour. I was so impressed watching, not just catering employees, but housekeepers and literally every employee in the place, hauling furniture, sweeping up debris, and drying off every soaked surface to present what turned out to be a mini “festivale”.

The Executive Chef and his staff outdid themselves. Every guest was greeted with a tropical cocktail, and the spread of food from duck wraps to tiny spoons of lobster and avocado salad was both elegant and delicious. The hot table featured a huge roast beef, roast pork, and a triumph of a paella.

The party theme was based on Costa Rica’s seasons. During the dry (gold season), the country looks like a parched, golden map of hills and valleys, but once the rainy (green) season begins in June, everything turns into a verdant green. Staffers were costumed in these two themes and guests were asked to wear green and gold.