Redback Travels : Global Adventures for Body and Soul

And That's That...India Trip Wrap-Up

2009-03-21T17:23:00.001-07:00

For those used to my usual India writings, this year's trip proved to be a different story for me. Three days into the trip and 1 day after the first clients had arrived, Ryan learned that his wife had her baby 6 weeks early! He had to return to the US leaving me as the sole leader. With Kerala as a new region for Redback, this new line-up was slightly nerve wracking but with no other options, I was forced to step up and lead without my 6'5" safety blanket!

Needless to say, I had very little time to spend on the computer. What I also discovered is that the things that used to be so interesting, mostly because life in India is so different, seem normal to me now. Chaos is bliss! What I most enjoy as leader now is seeing India through those same virgin eyes that I once possessed.

So this year, rather than write lengthy descriptions of Indian culture...I am sharing the highlights of our trip through the lens of my camera. This time, I made sure it stayed on my hip at all times and was able to come home with a gallery of new imagery.

Overall, there were no major disasters and only a few bouts of diarrhea. Our groups got along great and it was a nice mix of people from all over the US including New York, Texas, Oregon, Idaho and Alaska. Our age range was from 21-61 and this year we added two men...yeah!

I can't help but think about the amazing activities that filled each day. Many things I had done before but many activities were new to me also. Each time I learn a little more in hopes of making the next trip that much better. The most valuable lesson though is understanding how blessed we are to have the quality of life we do. No matter how much money you've lost recently or how little work there is, it could be so much worse. Removing ourselves from the economy talk and immersing ourselves into a culture with so much less financially, yet so much more spiritually, is an uplifting phenomenon that can only be understood by being there.

Anyway, enjoy the photos...Til next time...namaste.

Cochin:

Kerala:

Yoga Festival, Rishikesh:

Agra:

Dharamsala:

Adventures in Peru

2008-12-08T11:43:00.000-08:00

With its ideal combination of outdoor activities, spirituality rooted in the ancient Andean religion, a safe and friendly culture, and unbelievable mountain scenery, Peru lived up to my expectations. The first couple of days I stayed in Cusco scouting out hotels and restaurants and getting a feel for this small magical city stationed at 11,000 feet. I was so happy to have given myself 2 days to acclimatize before my epic mountain bike ride and 4 day trek began because I definitely could feel it.

At first, I found myself struggling with comparisons of India…Cusco is easy to navigate, relatively calm and clean. In fact, I almost wanted to call it boring! No beggars. No chaos. Normal driving. The most unique thing I saw were the little Quechuan ladies wearing their colorful blankets filled with child on their backs and walking llamas through the center of town. I seized the opportunity for a photo opp only to come to learn that they dressed that way so tourists would take their photos for money. Hey, at least they were working! Soon enough, I settled into the Peruvian culture and came to the conclusion that “boring” is the new cool.

Before my husband Adam arrived, my goal was to do as much mountain adventure “scoping” as I could. My first adventure was a mountain bike ride with my awesome guide Duillio and an ex-BMX racer from Atlanta. I rarely travel with Americans but it was fun to be with a Southerner (borderline redneck complete with jeans and a hoody). From the Sacred Valley we drove an hour up a dirt road. By the time we got the top it was totally hailing. Needless to say, none of us were that fired up. Luckily, it stopped hailing but the dusting of ice made for some interesting travel, especially since the trail started off with a steep downhill and big rocks. I got a monster adrenaline rush straight out of the gate and did my best to hang on. The technical trail on a new bike definitely tested my nerves.

I’m not sure which was more ridiculous..the super drunk potato farmers who insisted I drink their homemade Chicha (local moonshine) or the Quechuan woman who wanted me to hold a dead hummingbird?

The next day I headed off on my next adventure with a new guide Huber and a couple from St. Louis. This 4-day trek headed to a pass below the massive Salkantay Mountain (20,574ft). Our first campsite located in the valley floor near the mountain was spectacular (and cold). Day 2 we climbed a pass reaching 15,000+ feet. According to Huber, we crushed the record for climbing the pass by over an hour…Good work team!

Surprisingly, just over the pass the scenery quickly turned lush and tropical. We must have seen 15 types of orchids, brommalids living on tree branches and all sorts of crazy flora and fauna. Huber carefully explained each plant’s uses as we scampered down the valley floor. After that long, hard day of hiking, we were stoked to wake up the next morning and immediately hit a hot springs pool in the middle of the forest. Best $1 I’d spent yet!

The trek ended at a train that took us to Aguas Calientes, the closest town to Machu Picchu. I had arranged transport for Adam who was traveling from the US to meet our group. So many things could have gone wrong with him coming from the States and me being in the middle of nowhere. Luckily, his travels went smoothly and I arrived at his train just in time. Phew!

We woke up at 5am to catch the bus for Machu Picchu. The misty weather wasn’t in our favor but we went anyway and lucky we did because when we left, the rain started and didn’t stop for hours. Nonetheless, Machu Picchu is deservedly one of the Wonders of the World and something everyone should see once in their lifetime! It totally lived up to the hype (although I could have done without the dorky tourists in yellow and red ponchos) and we enjoyed Huber’s guidance through its history.

From Machu Picchu we spent the next several days in the Sacred Valley, an incredibly scenic area dotted with historic ruins, corn farms and surrounded by the Andes Mountains. We splurged on a beautiful yoga retreat center for 2 nights. The only drawbacks were its location just off the main road and there wasn’t a ton of stuff to do in the immediate vecinity. One day we cruised around the main town of Urubamba, which was a pleasant place with a fantastic restaurant and interesting pottery studio by the famous artist Seminario. The other day we hiked to a salt mine where salt literally poured out of a mountainside…Very unusual and cool.

Our guide Duillio had suggested we stay next door to him at a hotel that just opened. He said we’d like it. His recommendations were so good that we went for it and traveled to the other end of the Valley to stay there. A nice British guy answered the gate and brought us in to this newfound paradise. Nestled at the base of some amazing peaks, the stunning views from the glass reception area immediately felt right. With hiking trails galore, a yoga camp just 20 minutes away, and Duillio’s guiding facilities next door, this was the spot. The energy was right, the service good, and it’s a brand new hotel so not many people know about it. Jackpot! Strange how life turns…

The next morning we shipped off for our mountain bike ride. Adam warned me about 10 times that if we were mountain biking and if he fell, we’d be sleeping in different hotels that night. I was a bit nervous but Duillio said he’d be fine so we went. The ride was spectacular and easy enough for Adam but also presented us with some challenging technical sections. He did great and actually “caught the buzz.” Welcome to my world! In between navigating singletrack and an ancient trade road used by the Spanish, we stopped at the Moray Ruins and again at the salt mine which not only broke up the ride, but also were interesting historical features. After the ride, Duillio and his wife Andrea had us over for a long, delicious lunch. A young couple with a 2-year old daughter and western ways, we hit it off immediately and talked for hours. They invited us to stay at their house, which we did for the night. We now had real Peruvian friends ☺

On our way back to Cusco, we made a quick stop in Pisaq to visit the famous ruins, which were now looking all the same, and the touristy market, which had the same stuff we had seen everywhere. The best part by far was the “Choclo con Queso” the women sold in the market. This corn on the cob had huge kernels which and was with 2 pieces of cheese (that squishy, rubbery white kind that every other country has but ours) and a green pesto sauce. Delicious!

We spent the last 2 nights and one full day back in Cusco. I felt like a regular at this point and we shopped a little and ate at more amazing restaurants per Duillio’s recommendations. We were even able to find a crepe shop with WiFi for Adam to do a little work. We also randomly found a great jazz band that played in an intimate, funky bar. Aside from the cigarette smoke, it was cool to be listening to a funky, younga band in a bar where at least 5 languages were spoken.

Getting home was a long, drawn out process that involves an afternoon in Lima and a late flight home…Not worth writing about.

So that’s it. Once again, another amazing international adventure. It was so nice to not read the paper, not talk or hear about the economy and meet new people. What a treat to wake up to an Obama victory and the world giving us a thumb’s up for making a good decision (we hope!). When we won, we were staying at a hotel with a French Canadian couple, a Dutch couple, an Argentinian, a Brit and us. It was interesting how involved they were in our election. But I guess everyone was watching, huh?

I’m officially awesome at traveling abroad. I love that I am able to write and photograph my experience so others can vicariously enjoy the experience. We Americans are blessed with creativity and energy and freedom. It is my desire to use these gifts as a way to better my life as well as the lives of those around me. Stepping outside the comfort box and into someone else’s world is so liberating. It’s always reassuring to see that no matter where you are, life is about filling it with family, friends, good food and a warm bed.

‘Til the next adventure….Ciao!

A Little Help from Our Friends

2008-10-02T12:37:00.000-07:00

Redback Travels takes groups to India to explore its spiritual core, which to me, is the heart and soul of this crazy country. We have a team of people helping whom all have extensive knowledge of India, its culture, religions, and environment, as well as yoga and spirituality.

We have an exciting schedule planned for next year that is sure to get you at least thinking about stepping outside your comfort zone and into the fascinating world of one of the oldest and most dynamic cultures on earth.

More details on our other trips will follow in the coming weeks but for now, we are focusing our efforts on getting people signed up for our annual pilgrimage this February. The South India section is filling fast, the Yoga Festival is always a big draw and the North section, well, the Dalai Lama’s health isn’t great these days and to have the honor of being in his presence is not something to take for granted!

Obviously, we are in troubled times. But as my friend Dave Romanelli so graciously wrote me last night, it is during times like these that we must support our friends and their endeavors. Group energy will pull us out of this mess to become stronger than ever.

I am counting down the days to be on the airplane transported to another world where I can focus on my own internal exploration while at the same time, serving as a catalyst to open doors for the entire group in their own development. The thing about India is that when you go, you never come back the same person. You are guaranteed to have a shift in your perspective and in how you see yourself in the world.

I ask that you send this along to anyone you might know you would have an interest in traveling to India (or Costa Rica or Peru). This year we have 3 (out of 12) people returning to India which makes me feel like we are doing something right!

Just a reminder, the early bird special is ending soon…If you sign up by Oct 15, you save $200!

For all trip details visit www.redbacktravels.com

Love and light,
ashley

Yoga Festival Lineup Posted!

2008-09-19T13:31:00.001-07:00

It's interesting how as we get older, our priorities change. It happens without it us even realizing or doing it intentionally. One day, you love this. 8 years later, you love that. I guess we all evolve and grow. I remember when I used to frantically check Widespread Panic's website to see if Summer or Fall Tour had been posted. Come February, I'd look for the Jazzfest Lineup. This summer I really noticed this when I went to a mountain bike festival. The whole time I kept thinking how familiar it seemed due to the countless concert festivals I'd been to...only this time people were there to exercise and be in the mountains. Sure there was some beer but that was hardly the focus. It was an incredible weekend and one of those times I realized that yes, I guess I'm officially older and seeing an epic version of "Chilly Water" just doesn't hold a candle to the inagural "Heckletooth" ride I experienced with a bunch of strangers.

So here I find myself thinking the same thing....Yesterday I learned that the Yoga Festival Lineup was posted! Last year's fest was so amazingly fantastic that I've been waiting for this announcement ever since. This year doesn't disappoint. The line-up is amazing.

See for yourself:

www.internationalyogafestival.com

For those new to yoga, these names probably look like gibberish. Take it from me, after listening to these people talk, taking their classes and just "feelin' the vibe," you'll never look back on your decision to have yoga be a part of your life.

For those seasoned veterans of yoga, there is so much variety and expertise in the teachers that you are sure to learn something from everyone. I know our group did last year! In fact, 3 women from last year are joining us again this year. That's how good it was!

The energy of Rishikesh is like no other place on earth. I encourage you to join Redback Travels and attend this festival. You won't find anything like it in the States.

Club India

2008-08-08T15:00:00.000-07:00

Recently I found myself at a cocktail party talking in the corner with another person about our experiences in India. This has happened to me enough times that it's actually worth writing about. Anyone who's been to India knows what it's like...the smells, the chaos, the people. We've all been cheated out of an extra rupee a million times. We've all seen the head bob and can actually use it where needed. There's always a train station story or a rickshaw tale. While each person has such a unique experience, the gist is the same...what a country! Nobody would claim it to be the most beautiful (although the Himalayan mountains could be argued as such) or the most relaxing (quite the contrary). But all would agree that's there a certain "something" about it that is so different that it changes all who visit.

I hardly have times where I find myself talking and talking about say, Bhutan, or Chile, or Hawaii. I mean, sure, maybe a story here or there, but certainly not so many stories that you are practically fighting your friend to tell about the craziest thing that happened to you in India!

It's the kind of place that changes you forever. Your stories dwell in your memory for years and years. The experiences are ones that you will never find anywhere else.

For those who have been, you know what I'm talking about.

For those who haven't, what are you waiting for? It's time to see for yourself. If you find cocktail parties to be dull then why not spice things up a bit and add some India stories to your repertoire? You'll be the life of the party and when you meet someone else in "The Club," you'll have a new friend for the rest of the night and maybe even for life!

Need help posting fliers

2008-07-24T16:13:00.000-07:00

We're busy gearing up for the India trip in February. If anyone is interested in posting fliers in their town or at their yoga studio, please contact us. We are looking to branch out of our box and get some people signed up from new cities around the States.

We know that the economy and gas prices are anything but helping us right now. But we hope that with enough time, you can save your money and plan for a life moving adventure. Staying home is sometimes the most realistic way of dealing with forces outside our control. But branching out and meeting new people and learning about a new culture is way more enlightening in the long run. The economy will pick up eventually. In the meantime, how cool would it be to use this crazy time as a soul searching adventure where you never know what's around the corner? Where each day is a new beginning. Where each place you go is a totally new sight to behold.

With this down time comes an up time for personal growth. Or maybe it's time for a break from your family, your job and your regular routine? Life is full of twists and turns. Traveling in India makes you think each day about something you have never even considered. India teaches you to react quickly, to be always on your toes. The decisions you make could have a transformational outcome that often times changes the course of your trip. It's these surprises that make it so special. One second a person is trying to cheat you out of a rickshaw, the next second you meet someone who wants to discuss the meaning of life and totally transforms your entire outlook on Indian culture.

You'll never know until you try....lucky for you, we'll deal with all the logistics to make your experience one to remember for a lifetime.

Message from Swamiji

2008-07-16T11:18:00.000-07:00

Embracing Life’s Challenges So We Can Soar High

There once was a man who noticed a beautifully woven cocoon on a tree outside his home. He carefully watched the cocoon every day in order to catch the first glimpse of the beautiful butterfly he knew would emerge. Finally, one day he saw a tiny hole in the cocoon that grew quickly as the hours passed. He sat watching the butterfly break her way out of the cocoon. However, suddenly he noticed that it seemed the butterfly had stopped making progress. The hole did not get any larger and the butterfly seemed to be stuck. The cocoon was bouncing up and down on the branch as the butterfly tried to squeeze herself, unsuccessfully, through the hole she had created.

The man watched in dismay as it seemed his butterfly would not be able to emerge. Finally, he went inside, took a small pair of scissors, and carefully cut the cocoon, allowing the butterfly to emerge easily. However, the butterfly immediately dropped to the ground instead of soaring gracefully into the sky as he imagined she would.

The man noticed that the butterfly’s stomach was swollen and distended her wings were small and shriveled, explaining her inability to fly. He assumed that after sone time, the stomach would shrink and the wings would expand, and she would fly in her fullest glory. However, this was never to be.

The man didn’t know that it was the very act of forcing her body through the tiny hole in the cocoon that would push all the fluid from her stomach into her wings. Without that external pressure, the stomach would always be swollen and the wings would always be shriveled. The butterfly would never fly.

In life, too frequently, we avoid the challenges, looking for the easy way out. We look for people who will “cut our cocoons” so that we never have to work and push our way through anything. However, little do we realize that it is going through those times of difficulty which prepares us for the road ahead. The obstacles in our path are God’s way of making us able to fly. With every bit of pushing and struggling, our wings become fuller and fuller. Without successfully navigating our challenges, struggles and hurdles we never learn how to fly. We never are able to leave the chains that bind us. We never become that beautiful, final product that God has envisioned for us. A butterfly’s ultimate destiny is to soar gracefully and beautifully, yet in order to do so she has to push herself through a tight cocoon. We can never know our own ultimate destiny is to soar gracefully and beautifully, yet in order to do so she ahs to push herself through a tight cocoon. We can never know our own ultimate, highest destiny unless we are prepared to face and overcome the struggles that life puts in our path.

So frequently, people come to me and say, “Oh, why has God given me so much strife. Why has He put so many obstacles in my path? Why is he punishing me?”

We must realize these are not punishments. Sure, karma plays a large role in what we receive in this lifetime, but even the things that seem like “bad” karma, are actually opportunities for growth. Even an extra small hole to squeeze through is actually an opportunity for our wings to expand to great lengths.

So, let us learn to take our challenges for what they are, rather than looking around for a “different” hole, or for someone with a pair of scissors. These things may help us pass quickly through the cocoon, but we will be unable to fly in life.

With love and blessings to you all.

In the service of God and humanity.

Swami Chidanand Saraswati

Kashmir Update

2008-07-07T13:00:00.000-07:00

We have sadly decided to postpone the Kashmir trip. Kashmir is so incredible that will continue to offer it again next summer. We hope this allows for enough time to plan ahead, get in shape and save your money!

Please read the lead story I wrote called Finding Solitude in Kashmir on www.yogayaya.com

For more reading about Ladakh, Pico Iyer wrote an incredible article in the New York Times recently about this fascinating place.

Click here to download New Yorker article.

Last Adventure in Kashmir

2008-04-05T10:04:00.001-07:00

I have to admit, I’m cheating a little as a write my last entry…I’m sitting on my mom’s couch next to a warm fire and drinking a decaf soy latte. And to think I was just starting to like the Nescafe special with too much sugar. Ha…

I left you with a sprinkling of the beauty of Kashmir that I was so fortunate to explore. On the flight up there, as I looked outside and saw the vastness of the Himalaya range, I felt such excitement. The other places on this trip were familiar. This was new and I had no idea what to expect. As Swamiji in Rishikesh said to the yoga fest attendees, “Never expect anything. Expectation is the root of discontent and frustration. For when you expect something, it is so easy to be disappointed.” As we began our landing process, this grandmother sitting next to me began talking to me. She liked that I was from America. She liked that I helped her daughter deal with her twin baby boys. She asked me for my address and gave me their address. She kept kissing me and invited me to come have chai at their house. I politely declined since I had a ride picking me up. Talk about friendly...already I liked this place.

Gulzar, the owner of the hotel in Dharamsala who convinced me to visit Kashmir, picked me up in his brand new SUV. Nice rig! As we made the 2 hour journey to Pahalgam, or The Shepherd’s Valley, I couldn’t believe how civilized it seemed. There were no cows, only a few motorbikes and not that many people in general. There were actually times when there were no other cars except ours. The quiet totally tripped me out after having been in Varanasi, Agra and Delhi all too recently. Mountains surrounded every direction as we drove through yellow fields of mustard and the white saffron flowers. Ah…saffron country! Next to Spain, Kashmir produces the best saffron in the world and I was lucky enough to score it straight from “the saffron guy” that all the locals went to…

We arrived at the guesthouse in the early afternoon. It’s a really cute place right on the river and my room, decorated in typical Kashmiri embroidered curtains, duvet and rugs, was JUST what the doctor ordered. After a short rest, I embarked on a two hour hike around the valley. It was lightly raining and my guide, Ransam, insisted I take an umbrella. I was like, “No thanks, I live in Oregon. It rains all the time. I never use an umbrella.” He took it anyway. Thank god. Within 30 minutes, I was hiking with the umbrella! Immediately this village felt like it might as well be Mars. Similar to Telluride, the village sits at the end of a dead end valley with picturesque mountains in every direction. Now turn back the clock 100 years where children play hopscotch and cricket (LOTS of cricket), people farm their own land and chickens run amok. Make it Indian but not Hindu Indian since we were in Muslim country and the Kashmiri people have much lighter skin…about 1 out of 4 have the most incredible green eyes that sparkle with their infectious smile. Virtually everyone wears a thin wool cloak over their clothes called a Faren and they carry small baskets filled with charcoal which they use to warm their hands.

The next couple of days consisted of early morning yoga > breakfast > 4-5 hours of hiking > nap > bath > dinner and a lot of reading. My dream schedule! Gulzar and his crew totally took care of me. A guide escorted me on all the hikes showing me the local terrain and explaining village life. They cooked nutritious meals that were simple and delicious. Each night they put 2 hot water bottles in my bed for added warmth. The best part was that there was actually a bathtub in my room with super, duper hot water. With my book, a bottle of water and after a 5 hour hike, I think it was best bath of my life.

Most of the people are farmers who grow their own food on a small plot of land. Before the snow begins, they harvest corn and potatoes for the winter. Some depend on tourism for their livelihood and they were all so friendly to me (since it was the early season, I think there were only 5 foreigners in town). Everyone walked and said hello along the way. One afternoon a couple of schoolgirls invited me to their house for chai. I accepted and the whole family of women came to visit. Within minutes we were all drinking real Kashmiri chai – a salty, milk tea that has millet powder on the bottom. It’s definitely an acquired taste which improved with the rock hard bread that we dipped in to soak up the salt. At the end you chug the corn powder that I guess is healthy. I pretended like it was fantastic but politely declined seconds! The girls thought my western outfit was horrible so they gave me a Faren and also put on lipstick and nail polish and a headband. Now I fit in. And now I have a real Faren. Yes!

The day hikes were spectacular. One day in particular was my favorite…We hiked a steep ridgeline for about 2 hours. I had officially ditched my running shoes which I think might be the worst invention ever (how did I run 10 marathons in them?) and instead opted for my teva flips which were sooooo much better. At the top there was a little snow leftover and there I found myself hiking in the snow in sandals. That was a new one. The view from the top was stunning…360 degrees of the glorious Himalayas…rugged and HUGE! At 14,500 feet, these were small mountains in comparison to what lies on the interior. But even the small ones are bigger than the biggest mountains in the states and felt that way. Incredible. I can only imagine what the views are on an actual multi-day trek. (Hint, Hint, the next Redback trip). We cruised down and at one point came up to a large snow patch. My guide looked and me and I looked at him and said, “Can we glissade on our butts?” He answered, “You like?” Duh. Of course I like! We glissaded down and laughed all the way. Glissading in flip flops…another first.

No stay in Kashmir would be complete without staying in a houseboat on Dal Lake. I had my doubts on this one since all the books talk about it and it seemed like a tourist dorkout. But since this was a scoping expedition, I had to see for myself. Gulzar, Wali (one of the guides), David, a Canadian yogi, and myself drove to Shrinigar, the biggest city in Kashmir. The houseboat really was pretty cool…it reminded me of a shotgun house in New Orleans only totally ornate. Each large boat has 6 bedrooms, a living room, deck, dining room. We arrived and within minutes there was a jewelry guy who came to show us jewelry. Then a shawl guy came with shawls. Then a leather bag guy. Delivery shopping where you drink tea and they come to you? Sure. Why not?!

We saw a few sites around town including two mosques. Is it just me or are mosques totally depressing? The vibe is so ominous. Women aren’t allowed in the main shrines. Military personnel holding major guns stand guard. There is very little ornamentation. No music. Compared to the vibrant Hindu temples filled with color, singing and joy, these felt like the polar opposite.

That night, we enjoyed dinner on the boat and had an interesting conversation with Wali. As usual in India, the subject of yoga, religion and spirituality came up. Since we were in Muslim territory, David and I inquired about his notion of enlightenment and spiritual leaders. We learned that he believed, like most people in this region, that Mohammed was the last prophet who truly spoke to God. The end of the world will be on a Friday. Women shouldn’t be in the workplace except as schoolteachers. When I asked what he thought about the Dalai Lama he answered, “Oh, he is only about big business.” David and I could see this was getting nowhere quickly. I mean, how many saints and sages have achieved enlightenment since the 14th century? The list is small but it exists. Obviously, Wali had no interest in opening his horizons so we left it at that. While the Muslim people are super nice, so many continue to live in the stone ages! Whoa…

So that’s a wrap on India for now. I can’t believe how fast the time went but when each day is a total adventure, time flies. India isn’t always about being the most relaxing or the most beautiful (although it can be if you find the right spots). It is about being the most unique and the most challenging. It’s about being in new situations, making decisions quickly and trusting your instinct. It is a constant test of patience. It’s forces the notion of going with the flow where new things are discovered around the bend. Most of all and amongst all the chaos, India is about finding a connection to the inner light and diving deep into your soul and to the peace within…

Until next time…namaste

World School Wrap-Up

2008-04-01T08:24:00.000-07:00

It’s been ages since I last wrote…I apologize for leaving you hanging with the Tibetan protests. It was just non-stop with the students and I had so little time to sit at a computer. After dropping them off, I woke up super early to catch the first flight up to Kashmir where I had no phone or internet…

Leading students was about as challenging a task as I’ve done in a long time. They arrived totally unprepared (didn’t know what language was spoken, that India had states, the names of the places they were going, etc). Ryan and I felt like we were leading a group of blind people. Because this country is so vastly different from our American lifestyle, it is crucial that people do at least a little homework before they come here…there are so many amazing books, movies and resources to shed light on this country. I really learned from this experience that the more you know up front, the more enriching your trip will be. Showing up with no understanding India just makes for a long journey to say the least….

We returned to Rishikesh to stay at our ashram which pretty much feels like home at this point. Ryan and I were lucky enough to stay in one of the newly remodeled rooms which was great. I really enjoyed listening to an impromptu talk by Swami Mooktananda. A French Canadian by birth, he left his life as a contractor and moved to Rishikesh to be a monk. Now he is very famous and travels the world to speak about spirituality. A giant of a swami (literally made Ryan look small), he was so calm and spoke about the monastic lifestyle and what it means to live a world where “I am” is paramount. He broke down our notion of labeling (I am American, I am white, I am Christian) to clarify that deep down, we are all the same. My favorite part was when I asked how kids these days are supposed to find peace and quiet when they live in a world filled with so much noise, gadgets, and all around nonsense (myspace, video games, etc). It took him at least a minute to answer. The room fell silent. Was that his answer? Then he finally said that children need to return to nature. It’s the only thing that’s more spectacular than myspace. It is boundless, beautiful and ever changing. I loved that answer and couldn’t agree more.

One of the highlights of the entire trip occurred next in Dharamsala with the Tibetan protests. I wrote of them earlier but it was incredible to be part of history and to see the passion in which they spoke out. We met with a Tibetan teacher who left home when he was 16 (more than 20 years earlier). He told his story about never seeing his family again and how he only spoke to his brother one time. He told about the way the Tibetans in China are treated, how guides only take tourists to certain areas that the Chinese establish, how guides are forced to only say certain facts that the Chinese tell them to say and how there are Chinese spies who make sure people act the way they want them to. It was so sad. I found myself crying on multiple occasions throughout our stay. I can’t even imagine not having a home to ever come back to, to have my culture exploited and to be forced to live under a Communist government. I read in one paper that the Chinese claimed that the Dalai Lama was a “jackal and the mastermind behind the Tibetans sabotaging the Olympics.” Uh, yeah….ok. Do they not listen to what he is saying? He has clearly stated that they simply want Tibetan autonomy! And by the way, the Chinese have claimed 20 deaths but the last I read, 140 monks living in monasteries had died…nice.

Varanasi was nuts as usual. Such a strange city…so filthy, so crowded, so spiritual. We conveniently arrived on Holi which is a holiday devoted to Lord Krishna. It’s completely insane. People throw chemicals on anything and everything. Dogs, cows, people are literally covered head-to-toe in colored painted look like a walking tie dye. We went from peaceful Dharamsala to the craziest street scene ever. Even the leaders were shocked byt the complete chaos enveloping the group. The kids were so freaked out. Needless to say, we stayed in the hotel that night and the next day until 1pm. The hotel staff said not to leave due to drunk Indian men. If you’ve never seen a drunk Indian dude, you’re lucky. They suck. They get so completely wasted and will touch women at any chance. Super sketch. Agh, India! So much for our itinerary. We rearranged our schedule and in the end, it all worked out. The highlight was visiting the burning ghat were over 200 people a day are cremated. This guide started talking to us about the rituals taking place (there were at least 10 people being burned at that time) and next thing we knew, we were literally walking right through the middle of all the bodies! It was hot and we saw legs breaking and a head fall off. WHOA. It was for sure the closest I’ve ever been to this scene and was something none of us will forget. We even came home with ash in our hair. When the kids asked me why I like Varanasi my answer was because you see the strangest things you’ll ever see there. Period. There’s no other place on earth like it.

Lastly, we went to Agra to visit the Taj. One night left and we were on easy street. We ate a huge meal in Delhi the night before we caught an early train. Within hours, not one, not two, not three but EIGHT people out of 12 were violently ill…food poisoning central! Are you kidding me? I went between 4 rooms to clean puke, make sure they stayed hydrated, gave pep talks, etc etc. Our sunrise at the Taj consisted of 5 people able to make it. The rest barely got there by 10am and I’m not sure they even remember it. One girl was lucky enough to puke on the Taj lawn. The kids thought that was so cool.

I dropped them off completely SPENT. I am officially done dealing with kids for a long time. Not sure I’m a very good babysitter but we did our best. Luckily, kids don’t expect much. But man, they sure are a handful. I feel sorry for the challenges ahead of kids these days…crappy diets, eating pills at the drop of a hat, no family dinners or much family time, no discipline, no memory retention, blah blah…the answer seems simple although easier said than done, I’m sure…return to nature….start yoga early…study…play sports….make healthy dinners for your kids….

Ryan and I made new contacts, found new hotels and restaurants. That part was worth it and I’m glad we had a chance to revisit our destinations again. We officially have Delhi, Agra, Rishikesh and Dharamsala dialed.

More to come on Kashmir but I’m too tired to write. Let’s just say…after coming to India 3 times and traveling all over, I finally hit the JACKPOT. It is one of the most incredible places on earth and I can’t wait to share my experiences to the group.

Until then….may you find the peace within…namaste

Witnessing History: Tibetan Protests in Dharamsala

2008-03-17T06:16:00.000-07:00

One thing I have learned about India is that you just never know what’s around the corner here. “Planning” can be such a challenge because at least half the time activities that you have planned end up either cancelled or more likely moved to another day. Having a set schedule is virtually impossible and one must learn to not be attached to the itinerary. This is a lost cause and “going with the flow” is the only way to go here. Like the Mother Ganga River, things move forward and steadily but may encounter rocks or other obstacles that cause them to simply move and keep on. As we have all heard so many times…life is about the journey, not the destination.

And so our journey has taken a turn. I will write about the beginning of the kid’s arrival in India in a few days. I must take some time to write about the current situation we are witnessing for our group finds itself in the midst of history. We arrived yesterday in Dharamsala, home of his Holiness and the Tibetan refugees. After a long journey (12 hour train ride, 4 hour pit stop at a hotel in the middle of the night where we slept 6 in a room, 3 hour drive), we were all hungry and went straight to breakfast at Shangri-La, home of the best banana pancakes in India and served by a lovely group of monks. It was quite odd that at 10am the restaurant was closed. Ah, India. You just never know…So we went to our old stand-by, Nick’s, which also had great food and a patio with Himalayan views. Town felt so quiet and strange. Why were all the stores closed? Even though it was Sunday, that is normally not an excuse. Upon inquiry we learned that the Tibetans were in protest. Their stores were shut down and restaurants closed. It has been 4 days now. The Dalai Lama who was supposed to be traveling at this time is here and held a press conference this morning from his residence, just minutes from our hotel. Our free time for “shopping” has now been consumed by this historic event. Our itinerary changes each hour as we try to accommodate for the lack of Tibetan business open.

Just about a hour ago we stood in the streets to witness over 2000 students, monks, old, young raise their flags and march the streets. Adorned with face paint, they chanted their desires for freedom and justice. They chanted the Dalai Lama’s name again and again. It was so powerful that I found myself in tears. How horrible that here are all these wonderful, amazingly peaceful people filled with more compassion that the whole world combined, screaming for their freedom! I kept thinking about our lives at home where people complain about not having a cool enough car or a big enough plasma tv or what they are going to do for vacation and these young people haven’t seen their homes and families since they were little babies. Their homeland has swiftly and forcefully been stripped from beneath their feet. They are displaced. Sure, India’s nice and all, but it’s not the same.

There is a candlelight vigil each night at the Dalai Lama’s temple. Tomorrow morning will we walk with the monks to the temple to participate and chant in solidarity. There are news postings everywhere about the atrocities… The Chinese opened tear gas and killed over 80 people. Monks have burned themselves alive in protest. And yet, the Chinese aren’t leaking the real story and say they have only killed 13 people. But news travels fast and we are in the heart of it. There are pictures showing what has happened and names of the monasteries affected by the Chinese.

No worries about our group. We are safe. Like I said, there is not a more peaceful group than the Buddhists and the Indian government is allowing them to voice their opinion. I feel proud to have a flag that was passed out in the main square yesterday pinned on my bag. I will hang in my yoga studio. It is so sad to me that these poor people are at the mercy of the Chinese who have destroyed their heritage so deep in spirituality. Their entire message of compassion tested each moment of each day. How can they win against the most powerful nation in the world? It seems nearly impossible but non-violence ultimately will prevail. Killing with kindness, that’s their way. The Chinese are in a vulnerable spot by holding the Olympics in their country this summer. The world is watching. Please take a stance against the Beijing Olympics and maybe something will change. These people need our help. Stephen Spielberg turned down being the set director. Richard Gere is supposedly on his way here to help. If enough people recognize the cultural genocide that is taking place, maybe the Chinese will do something for them. I don’t know…all I know is that I saw the faces of these young people so passionate about their livelihood and it just struck a nerve. Big time. How is it that this is allowed to happen in front of our eyes with no consequences?

As I write this, the noise is getting louder. The swelling crowd is outside my window now. They are back. Incredible. I just looked and there are many more monks than before. I must go now…I need to go see more and will report back when I can.

As I stand just feet from the action, how is it that my camera is not with me? Talk about feeling like my hands were cut off. Watching camera crews, newsmen, bystanders snapping away, I am dying without my camera. Boooooo……

For more information, here are a few stories I found.

www.smh.com.au/news/world/uprising-is-just-beginning-exiles-say/2008/03/16/1205602195410.html

www.nytimes.com/2008/03/17/world/asia/17tibet.html?pagewanted=2&_r=1&hp

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/7299965.stm

Rishikesh: The Transformation

2008-03-13T08:29:00.000-07:00

Hello Again!

Time flies when you’re traveling in India and have no concept of days...it's weird, it could be Wednesday or Saturday for all I know most of the time. As long as there's no plane, train or rickshaw to catch, there is a timelessness to each day that only adds to the confusion.

The inaugural Redback trip has come and gone. Everyone made it home in one piece with minimal sickness and experiences of a lifetime that our group will cherish forever. Course, it wasn’t all roses and we certainly got screwed (mostly in Delhi) but that comes with traveling in this country and it kept us on our toes. Our mantra is “Live and Learn” and each time something negative happens, there is always a positive on the flip side in which we learn a valuable lesson and try not to let it happen the next time. Our group was so patient and flexible which helped us get through such a fantastic few weeks!

I left you in Rishikesh at the International Yoga Fest that we participated in for a week. Words can’t describe what we all experienced here. The caliber of swamis and yoga teachers was about as good as they come. We took in more in a week than most will in a lifetime in the West. It truly affected each and every person and there was something exciting and interesting for every member in our group. They even had kid’s yoga for Sofie!

Ryan and I woke up super early to practice a little on our own…he would meditate in our room and I would go up to the roof to practice. It was so nice to sit quietly in the dark and just listen to the sounds…there is always music or prayers happening in some corner and even that early, music permeated the valley. Class started at 6am and various classes went all day until the Aarti Ceremony on the banks of the Ganges River at 6pm. There were a couple of 45 minute breaks during the day but it was pretty much all yoga, all day, all week. Oh yeah…

You ask…all yoga all day, how did you survive? Well seeing as though we are in India where the yoga is completely different, it was actually quite easy since many of the classes involved meditation, pranayama (breathing techniques) and lectures. What was quite obvious throughout the week is how much the West has managed to butcher yoga. Truly, the whole premise of this ancient science is spirituality. Yoga has always been a way to find God… God in the sense of the inner light that resides inside each of us…God that pervades all religions and is ultimately the same for every religion…The idea that “I am.” The physical postures and breathing techniques are merely tools to settle the body for mediation. Then meditation is practiced to sit quietly and ultimately become enlightened. Course, very few actually get that far but it is the daily practice which counts. Learning and practicing various yoga techniques to find stillness within is the key to unlocking this inner spirit and the key to tapping into our consciousness. Learning to love without attachments and give without needing anything in return is a practice that we must learn to cultivate on a daily basis and which has been so lost in our society.

One day, Gormukh, the Kundalini teacher, spoke about giving just for the heck of it all day and see how it felt. So I tried it…I gave smiles to the beggars and said Namaste to everyone. I gave a few handicapped people a little money and fed the dogs. She was so right, it felt great and changed my whole week for the better. So try it today…give to those you come in contact with…could be a smile, could be money, could be a hello, could be letting someone in your lane while driving. Just try it and see how your day changes. Then try it again tomorrow, and the next day…

We did have one active class a day…some chose to do Iyengar with a master teacher from Bombay who studied with BKS Iyengar for 20 years. Birtho wore these awesome diaper pants tied up around his belly and was extremely insiteful. I learned a few things I never knew in his first class where we did 3 poses in 2 hours (we there was a LOT of talking in between). Some took a Vinyasa class from Duncan Peak who is a famous instructor in Australia. And the rest went to Gormukh, the preeminent Kundalini teacher from LA who studied with Yogi Bhajan for over 30 years. Her class did not disappoint. About 200 people joined together on the banks of the Mother Ganga to do the yoga and be a part of her inspiration. I know I can speak for the women who felt the transformation from her classes…she left us with such a grounded feeling of empowerment, love and respect for the spirit. We really dove deep into the depths of our consciousness and each time, I left with a feeling of…Oh my god, what just happened? It almost felt surreal. As Hilary so poignantly said after her second class, “Let’s see….one free yoga class or 4 years of therapy?” Her classes were that profound.

For those who don’t know what the heck Kundalini yoga is, it’s a type of yoga where you do fast motion exercises for long periods of time (up to 11 minutes). The motions become meditations and chanting along to this great music cranked on the loud speakers kept us going. The exercises tap into the nervous system and get prana (life force energy) flowing from the base of the spine. It can be so challenging and make you want to kill someone but if you let go of your ego and close your eyes and chant and feed off the people around you, anything is possible…or as they say in India “Sub Kulch Malega.” Other times we did random meditations (like stick your tongue out and move it all over the place for 22 minutes) but each exercise had a purpose and each class had a theme. People cried, laughed, yelled, whatever….but the point was to let it go, to be free. Each day we danced in a humungo dance party shakin’ it all over the place to this awesome music. The crowd of Indians who watched us from above must have thought we were so weird! Even I thought I was weird but it just felt so good to let loose and get down.

Another amazing aspect of the festival were the lectures and question/answer sessions, or “Satsangs” with the revered Swamis. Their messages on yoga, or the union of body and soul, love, reincarnation, the western vs eastern view of death, how to live a happy life and a million other topics left everyone in awe. They answered some great questions asked by young children and truly affected all those who heard them. The most impressive Swami, H.H. Sri Shankaracharya Swami Divyanand Teerthji, wore yellow sandalwood paste all over his entire forehead with a HUGE red dot in the middle, an orange cloth, some big mala beads and these sandals that I still have no clue how they work…basically, they were a wood plank with this mushroom looking wood piece where a flip flop’s toe piece goes. The catch was that there was no strap and the mushroom was extremely wide. So he put that in between his toes and walks? Whoa. Then a guy with an orange staff followed him wherever he went. How cool would that be to have an assistant staff holder wherever you went? Shankaracharya looked imposing to say the least and would chant in this very deep voice which only added to the mystery. But the second he opened his mouth, he spoke in perfect English and quoted phrases from the Bible, the Bhaghivad Gita, The Yoga Sutras and countless English poets. He completely captivated the audience with his insight and brilliance.

The last major highlight (there were about 100 at least) happened one morning when the entire festival participated in an event called the Yoga Aid Challenge where we raised over $60k for children in need around India. Twelve teachers led 9 sun salutations each to comprise of 108 total. Held on the banks of the Ganges, it was so fantastic to all join together in our love for yoga to help those in need. We did twelve totally different styles of the traditional sun salutation…a Japanese taught a totally unique set, a Kundalini teacher taught her own version, David Saul Raye did his own unique style and on and on. Who knew there were so many ways to do the same thing? The first day of the festival, I received a letter under our door asking me to be a leader. While flattered, I avoided responding to the organizer for a few days. I was just too nervous. I mean, it’s one thing to teach your friends, but something totally different to lead 400 people, many of whom were teachers themselves. But something inside me just kept saying that for some reason I was asked to participate and it was up to me to step up to the challenge and help the children. So there I found myself up on the stage standing next to a 98 year old revered Swami wearing an orange robe and the guru of the Ashram, Swamiji overlooking a sea of people with a microphone on my chest. My theme was for everyone to “give” their salutations with their heart to those in need rather than “do” their salutations with their muscles and bones. Leading each move with their heart center in order to radiate the inner light and soften their bodies added to the love felt from everyone on that special morning. It was definitely my biggest challenge as a teacher (and public speaker) and to be in the presence of 11 other heavy hitting yoga teachers was a little overwhelming but I held my own and even had a cheering section from my group at the end. Thanks team Redback!

Anyway, I could go on and on….the festival was definitely the highlight of my yoga career and one of my favorite experiences ever in India. People joined together from all over the world and even though we spoke many languages, we all united in the language of spirituality. We left feeling inspired and with a renewed sense of self and an inner peace that will surely continue even through the craziness of our lives at home.

Other fun activities the group participated in were swimming and cleansing away our sins in the Mata Ganga, visiting the abandoned ashram where the Beatles were inspired to write the White Album, eating organic salad and fresh rhododendron juice at a children’s orphanage and of course…SHOPPING! I think our group definitely bought at least half of India and certainly supported the local economy.

Check out more details about the festival at www.parmarth.com/yogafestival.html

From the festival, we sadly left to get on the train to Delhi. Sadly is the key word here because we were on such a high. We arrived at the train station only to have my small bag missing and Laura’s suitcase gone. Randomly, an Australian approached our group carrying my bag. What? Somehow it got mixed up in their stuff. Then we luckily found Laura’s bag at the Ashram…it never got on the porter’s cart! At least it wasn’t gone and with some serious logistics, we managed to get it on Gormukh’s bus and at their hotel where it was picked up successfully.

Then sadly sadly sadly….we arrived in Delhi where I went to get my camera bag and…and…it was GONE! My brand new, super fancy camera….GONE. Needless to say, I just about died when I figured it out. All week we discussed non-attachment. OK. Did we really need to practice it right away with my pride and joy? The New Delhi train station was totally traumatizing with the sea of people at our feet and total chaos and losing my camera felt borderline suicidal. I left the group so that I could go to the station manager (total nightmare and one of those times when you realize how ass backwards this country really is). Then I found Ryan but we lost the group. Then we found the group at the hotel. Oh man…it was horrible. But thank god for everyone having a laminated emergency contact card with all the hotel info because they all got there in one piece. Phew!

The next morning we woke up super early to get back on the train to head to Agra. I had to file a police report which was comical except for the subject matter. Police are NOT your friends here…they are lazy and corrupt and hate working. I explained my story: Basically, when we got on the train, I put my backpack and camera bag on my seat. Then Ryan and I helped our group get on the train (we only had a 5 minute window) and get their bags up on the rack. My eyes had left my bag and Wham! Camera was stolen. In hindsight, I had taken a photo of the group waiting for the train and someone must have watched me and followed me onto the train. So many lessons I have learned as a result. The old "live and learn" mantra came back with a vengeance this time.

Before the police would remotely help, we sat and drank chai. Typical.Then I sat through their version of work which was painfully slow…each time the officer filled out a sheet, he had to put 3 carbon copies (lined up perfectly) under each sheet. I was in a hurry and thought I was going to have a nervous breakdown. As they say in India….slowly slowly! My favorite part was at the end, when the “staple guy” swooped in…his job was to staple my sheets together. Only he couldn’t find the stapler so he used a pin instead. I guess everyone needs a job here, huh? Finally I got my report and ran to the train which left 5 minutes after. Phew again!

Our fast train to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal was easy. Sanjay our guide met us with long necklaces made of fresh roses, jasmine and marigolds and escorted us to our huge bus. Were we in Hawaii? Oh, I guess the hawkers and beggars would make that a negative. But for a second, we felt nice. On to the Hilton….or should we say paradise? After staying at the cold Annex, the small and not as clean as I remember ashram and an ok but in a sketchy neighborhood hotel in Delhi, this place felt like the best hotel ever. Funny how our outlook had changed after such a short period. It really made us all appreciate the little things…shampoo, hot water with a real showerhead, the hair dryer, a buffet breakfast with all sorts of yummy foods that we hadn’t seen in weeks. They even had a credit card key that we could have two of if we wanted. We were living LARGE! Compared to the other guests at the hotel (stuffy and way too clean) we looked sooooo hilarious….as Adam would say we were officially “India’ed Out”….flowing clothes, bangles, jewelry, dirty hair, flip flops…the whole 9 yards. We were pros at this point.

Our first stop was to have Lungar at the Sikh Temple. Our guide said it was the first time he’d ever taken a group there. We were officially seeing the real India. Basically, if you go to any Sikh temple, they will serve anyone and everyone a free all you can eat meal consisting of rice, spicy dal and a chapati. The only catch is that you can’t leave anything on your plate. We sat on the floor while these Sikh guys with swords on their belts served it up. After our breakfast feast, we weren’t exactly starving but we chowed down anyway. It was so cool!

From there we visited the historic and amazing Agra Fort and went to a marble factory to see how they make inlayed marble which was pretty interesting except for the annoying sales people pushing marble afterwards. Then it was back to paradise and to the bar…a BAR? We managed to throw back a bunch of Kingfishers and red wine. Our yogi ways went to the wayside that night but after all we’d been through, we needed a night to have fun with the girls! Poor Ryan probably wanted to curl up and die but he’s a trooper and we had a blast.

On our way back to Delhi we stopped for a fantastic lunch at the main Hari Krishna temple and checked out another famous ashram. The drive was long but as always, non-stop excitement. It only took us about 4 hours to go 30 miles.

The group left that night and into the morning. Trish and Martha stayed an extra day in Delhi so we went to Fab India and I managed to find the cutest store where we all went crazy. We also managed to send a small shopkeeper to the police buy merely buying his spices. The mafia is everywhere and the big guys win. We inadvertently didn’t buy from the main guy so he called the police who took our little friend off to jail. Oh India. Sometimes it can be so tough. Rather than “getting screwed” we accidentally “screwed” someone else. It certainly didn’t feel good and hopefully the man who took my camera isn’t feeling very good either.

As usual, this country never ceases to amaze me. The roller coaster one rides here has so many ups and downs. One second the elation is so high, while just moments later the feeling of utter devastation awaits. It’s this constant reminder that nothing is permanent. Attachment to anything only leads to frustration. Have no expectations and one won’t be disappointed. Expecting things to be a certain way is virtually impossible since things changes at a second’s notice so when something amazing happens, it feels that much more special. Finding the stillness within oneself amongst the chaos outside oneself becomes the true challenge. Patience, flexibility, non-attachment to both the material and also to something like a schedule are keys to finding peace within…if one can achieve these qualities, then life here becomes quite simple. Ha…Good luck!

Lastly, to our group….thank you so much for possessing the ability to be flexible and patient. We were so fortunate to have such an amazing group of women (and little Sofie) to share our love for India. We know that you are all going home with a new outlook on life and there isn’t one person who wasn’t affected in some way. After what we learned, shared and experienced, we are all in each other’s hearts forever. Like someone who was at a Dead show in ‘77 or a Panic show in ‘97….you were there!

Love and light to you all….

Redback Travels: Live from India

2008-03-03T00:42:00.000-08:00

Namaste from India! For those of you new to my postings, welcome. For those of you who are familiar with them...well...I'll try as usual to make things short but you know the drill…you may be in for a book report which I'll quiz you on when I get back.

What can I say....ahhhh.....Mother India. There are so many times I ask myself why my life keeps bringing me back here and then so many times right after that I remember what it is about this country that is so unique and special....the unpredictability, the slowness bordering on laziness, the chaos, the filth, the purity, the soul, the love, the sense of security in having faith in the creator, the ancient history, the roots....this really is where it all began.

So let's begin...Ryan Redman, my fearless partner and keeper of the peace, arrived a week early only to find our hotel reservation missing and his yoga mat stolen from his bag. NICE! After a hectic week of logistics, our group of 14 women and one 5 year old girl (yes, Ryan was in for some serious estrogen) arrived in one piece. Course, 3 people didn't have their luggage come but hey...clothes are cheap here and well, showers aren't really that important anyway.

A five year old in India? People had made me a little nervous about our decision to include her but her mother sounded amazing and said she was a world traveler so we chose to include her to see India through virgin eyes. The first morning Ryan led our group in a nice shoulder opening / hamstring stretching yoga class to get our bodies feeling normal again after such long airplane ride. We began with a meditation and at one point, I peaked and found little Sofie, wearing a pink Indian tunic shirt adorned with a bindi on her forehead sitting in full lotus position with her hands on her knees in meditation. I almost died at the adorable site and knew from that moment that we made the right decision. Sure enough, she has been a real gem to our group and is a truely old soul. I mean, how many 5 years olds would be totally comfortable hanging around a group of old women for 3 weeks? I can only imagine how different our children would be today if they practiced yoga from such an early age. Ritalin would surely be a thing of the past!

The group toured Delhi for 2 days. The early arrivals went to mass at Mother Teresa’s hospital and visited with people who were dying there…quite an intense experience. Some went to the historic Red Fort where the drive was for sure the best part since driving in Old Delhi is about as ridiculous as it gets. Even though there are lines drawn to indicate lanes, they are merely for show and 3 lanes really means 5-6 filled with cows, bike rickshaws, buses, tuk tuks (auto-rickshaw), cars, people and whatever else you can think of. Others went shopping at Fab India and somehow Ryan managed to find a guy on the street who cleans ears using a very small, very sharp tool to actually pull a lifetime of goop out of their ears. Only in India, huh? I am hoping to have this done when we go back….will it make me hear better?

The highlight was visiting Gandhi’s Smriti which is the house he lived in while in Delhi and where he was assassinated. It was so powerful and moving to be there. We walked the path he took to his final sermon, saw his actual glasses and spinning wheel, the house he lived in during the Partition and learned about the story of his life. Amazing!

From Delhi we flew in a small plane up to Dharamsala where His Holiness the Dalai Lama resides along with thousands of exiled Tibetan Buddhists. Nestled in the Himalayas, it is a really beautiful place and while the air pollution has gotten the best of the clear views, the beauty to me rests more in the Tibetan people than anything else. They are such a peaceful group and watching monks walking along the streets is worth the trip alone. It was funny to see monks on their cell phones but hey, we are living in modern times right? The teachings were much smaller than I anticipated and about 1000 people crammed into his residence twice a day for 2 hours at a stretch to listen to him speak. Foreigners could listen to the translation on their own radio since he spoke in Tibetan. Just listening to his voice, watching the Tibetans enthralled by the whole event and hearing all the monks chant was more interesting than the translator. His message was interesting of course, but the translator just didn’t have the voice that HH has. At the end of each teaching he would walk down the aisle with that smile that goes from ear to ear. What a presence and people would bow down as if he were Buddha himself.

Due to the intensity of the teachings, we also had optional daily activities. We began the morning with 2 yoga classes taught by either Ryan or myself (the room was too small for the whole group) starting at 7. A Tibetan named Lhamo taught some of us how to make Momos which are similar to pot stickers only steamed and filled with various stuffings…we made veggie, spinach and cheese and a sweet one. Each momo used a different “pinching” technique which we practiced several times before we actually used the stuffing. We also learned how to eat them authentically with a soy sauce, ketchup, chili powder, cabbage and carrot concoction. Yum!

Another day we hiked to a waterfall that went up to snow line. It was so nice to be on the trails and we even managed to pick up a pack of dogs who followed us for the entire 6 hour journey. With several of the women from Ketchum, it definitely felt like home. But we also had women from Minnesota, Texas and Arizona who weren’t used to that type of activity (or weather) and kicked butt to even be there! It even hailed and snowed a bit on our way down. Nobody even commented on it really…talk about low maintenance. My kinda ladies!

Our local guide was the Colonel who I used last year. He got a little Army us and was a little too organized for our group but he did manage to pull out a really nice day. We first visited a museum of Tibetan medicine and then went to the doctor at the nearby hospital where a few people who were sick wanted to get some medicine. Next thing we knew, the entire group saw the doctor to see what our ailments were and what pills (herbs of course) and teas we needed. They took our pulse to determine our conditions and for the most part, they were pretty close on the diagnosis. Doctor visit + medicines = about $8. That was super interesting and unexpected and we all learned a lot.

From there we drove to a tea plantation to see how tea is made and then continued on to a real local Hindu temple in Kangra. It’s always nice to see India through new eyes and this temple was a real treat for the 8 of us. The brightly colored walkway to the temple was lined with shops selling various offerings to bring to the temple. Some women bought the coconut/rice kit and when we entered the temple, offered it to Lord Shiva. In return, the women received shawls and tikkas on their foreheads. Since it happened to be Tues (holy day) there was a group of women singing who invited us to sing along with them. The women possessed such energy and their soulful music was felt by all. Everyone enjoyed clapping along and listening to the music and just hanging out with them. Course, we later learned that they were singing were about things like if they found their husband cheating on them, they’d ring his neck and all sorts of funny things which gave us a good laugh….

On our last night, we drove to the Colonel’s house for a bonfire. We didn’t realize the extent of the bonfire but it was all set up in his backyard with huge sticks. When he started to pour gas on it, we’re like, are you SURE you need that much gas? A few women lit it with tiki tourches (luckily nothing exploded) and the Colonel’s wife led us through a wedding ritual involving a mantra and throwing rice on the fire. We then ate snacks and Indian treats. It was great to experience a real Indian family’s home life and share stories.

The final morning we all walked to a waterfall just outside town. I had scoped out a really nice spot to do yoga along the river so we ventured out for some morning yoga. We even had 2 dogs and an Indian man selling “head massages” join us. It was so wonderful to do yoga outside at the foot of the Himalayas communing with nature. Even Ryan said it might have been his favorite place ever to teach.

From Dharamsala, we took a 3 hour jeep ride to the train station for our first train experience. I had geared everyone up for Hell and it was probably the easiest train ride of my life. There weren’t even any Chai people to bug everyone? What’s up with that? Normally you are constantly berated by the sound of “Chai, Chai, Chai” about a million times in this high pitch voice. Oh well. No complaints since we'd way rather have travel be smooth since it so rarely is!

Now we are in Rishikesh attending the 2008 International Yoga Festival at the ashram where I stayed last year. I definitely need some time to digest what is actually happening to our group. All I can say is this city embodies the essence of India. It is unlike any other place in the world. What we have experienced in three days most people won’t in their lifetime of studying yoga in the west. It is the true eastern aspect of this ancient science and the reason why people travel here. About 500 people have come together from all around the globe and the positive energy and love surrounding us is infectious. And as Ryan said today, the teachers, swamis and saints are 1st tier which none of us were totally expecting.

India is definitely not for everyone. The people who are here came here for some reason, pulled by a higher power to come experience it. Those who embrace it leave home a changed person. Those who fight it get spit out quickly. It is truly the opposite of our society…the dirt, poverty, chaos, laziness, are all on the surface and some would find it hard to get past this and wouldn’t be able to enjoy themselves. But it is so much deeper than the surface. Unlike our Western culture where appearance is everything and we live too much on the surface, the essence here lies within. There is an openness of heart that sets it apart. It’s not about the outside, it’s about what’s inside. It is about the love and the realization that we are all human beings with a connection to each other. Love will get us through the bad times and carry us into the good times. Finding that inner light and sharing it with others is what life is about. While money is nice, it certainly doesn’t make happiness. Bliss must be cultivated by an internal quest and search for the truth.

Just a side note about our group…I have been traveled with groups in the past and never have I experienced one like this. Everyone has become best friends. There is such a feeling of community filled with respect and laughter and we are just having so much fun! The ages range from 27 – 58 and it so doesn’t even matter. We are all here to share this experience together and the women have been so accommodating and flexible and have made our job so easy. Our plans have changed 100 times at least, our accommodations haven’t been the best, a few have been a little sick and not one person has complained one time. We are so fortunate and I am so thankful for this and can’t wait to pursue our friendships after this is all said and done.

Finally….moving to the jungle... if anyone is interested in going to Costa Rica with Ryan from April 3 –11, please let us know. The Osa Peninsula is truly paradise and it will be an amazing week of yoga, surfing, hiking, relaxing and just being in one of the most pristine jungles in the world. There is more information on our website: www.redbacktravels.com

Til next time….Namaste