Freeman of the Hill

New Glencoe mountaineering blog

2009-02-10T12:52:00.002Z

I'm not reviving this blog for the time being--it's just too much effort juggling my job and climbing with writing as well, sadly--but for those of you who found my conditions reports from the mountains useful, I have set up a new blog to share information about the Scottish mountains.

It will feature regular reports from Glencoe with a focus on snow and ice conditions, reported to the best of my ability. Here is the link:

http://glencoemountaineer.blogspot.com/

Cheers all, and enjoy one of the best Scottish winter mountaineering seasons we have had for many a year. Safe climbing.

Blog closed - for the time being!

2008-12-09T14:20:00.003Z

Just a quick note to say that I am still alive and well, and have not fallen off a mountain! However I seem to have fallen out of the habit of writing for the blog, probably because my novel is also on hiatus at the moment (that's what happens when you're so far away from all the archives you need for research material!) I'm going to get on top of it again, but for the time being I am very busy with winter climbing, as we have had snow on the mountains for over a month, with only brief thaws.

So it is possible I may revive the blog at some point in the future, but for the time being this is my last entry.

Enjoy the mountains! It's going to be a great winter season.

Winter conditions persist!

2008-11-02T11:09:00.002Z

Glencoe conditions:
Temperatures rising steadily. A lot of snow still evident on northerly slopes above 850m, but the snowline is much higher than this on southerly slopes. When the sun is out everything is melting below about 900-950m. Above 1000m things were still frozen hard yesterday although I am certain the freezing level will continue to go up. Snow at high levels is starting to consolidate and the rime is becoming very thick. In any case today is another calm and sunny day, so make the most of the glorious early-season winter walking and climbing conditions!

Yesterday before work Isi and I went for a quick dash up Bidean nam Bian by the direct route up Coire nam Beithach. As Isi had not used ice axe and crampons in anger for a while we planned an easy route, an out-and-back excursion up Bidean's West Ridge, but what a day it proved to be! At first I thought that the snow would be awful up top, as it was thinning and melting in the coire, but once on the ridge the accumulations were still there and the rime ice was thick on the rocks.

Better still, the views were phenomenal. We could see all the way over to Schiehallion, the Cairngorms, and the Arrochar Alps. With such clear air even I (with my damned short-sightedness!) could make out individual gullies in the Northern Corries on the far horizon. What an amazing day to be in the mountains.

The ridge also proved a delight to climb (I had only ever descended this way before), with a few optional moments of Grade I climbing thrown in just for the fun of it. And for the second time in three days, I got to see the breath-taking view from the summit of Bidean nam Bian, highest mountain in Argyll and the crowning jewel of Glencoe.

Plenty of others were up enjoying the superb conditions, including a team of climbers who had done something in Coire nan Lochan. By the standards of the past few weeks, a group of seven on the summit seemed positively busy!

The snow is still sticking around for the time being, with a lot still visible on Stob Coire nan Lochan this morning, and even the icefalls on Aonach Dubh are still complete. However within the next few days the snow will almost certainly melt, leaving only a few patches before we revert to normal weather, ie. wind and rain! It has been an amazing couple of weeks, though, with some superbly memorable days in the mountains thanks to the early-season conditions.

Winter climbing

2008-10-31T09:09:00.003Z

Glencoe conditions:
Yesterday the snow was down to about 600m and well-frozen just after dawn. As the sun rose the freezing level went up the hill, with icefalls exposed to sunlight melting rapidly. Northerly-facing slopes that remained in the shade stayed frozen well into the day. Snow conditions above 1000m were partially consolidated, with significant accumulations and several inches of rime ice in places. North-facing scrambles and climbs at high altitude are likely to be full-on mixed climbs until they melt. Considerable amounts of water ice in places. Today the temperature is set to steadily rise.

My day yesterday was nothing short of brilliant! As Rachael was in Ediburgh, I planned a solo climb up the Grade II ridge of Sron na Lairig, an Alpine-style excursion to the summit of Stob Coire Sgreamhach. I anticipated the most difficult section of the ridge to be a dry rock climb below the snowline. However, when I got to the hard slab I found it to be completely iced up: a full-on mixed climb. I attempted to climb the awkward groove left of the slab, but it was too thinly iced to be of any use for crampons, but too slippery to be climbable without them. In the end I gave up and turned the difficulties to the right, climbing a short ice gully instead.

The upper crux finally stumped me. This rock tower is unavoidable and is the key to accessing the easier ridge crest above. The exposed entry pitch features highly sloping holds that would be fine in summer, but when covered in ice and climbed in crampons, made it a difficult proposition. If I had brought my ice hammer as well, and had a mate belaying me from above, it would probably have been fine but I have learned not to take risks when climbing alone!

Luckily the ridge was still escapable from this point, so I made a long rising traverse to the right across avalanche-prone snow slopes to the base of a north-facing gully. The gully didn't have a huge amount of snow build-up but luckily the exposed turf was frozen hard, so was an enjoyable and easy little climb (classic Grade I terrain). I topped out to the most amazing views I have ever seen, stretching across Glen Etive towards Starav, with the sun shining on the loch far below.

My continuation took me over Stob Coire Sgreamhach, and down to the deep col of Bealach Dearg, where I got a peek of a winter climb I did in the 06/07 season coming up from the Lost Valley. It looked rather hard, and I'm currently debating whether it can possibly have been Grade II! In any case I swiftly climbed the impressive ridge up to the high summit of Bidean nam Bian, and at last got to see the view from that peak for the first time. It was a humbling experience.

The day was rounded off by a quick traverse of Stob Coire nam Beith, a descent into the corrie, and a pint of Black Cuillin in the pub. Perfick!

Conditions improve!

2008-10-28T17:11:00.002Z

Weather in the glen:
Significant snow cover above 700m, with a dusting right the way down into the valley. Freezing level about 400m but it's fluctuating a fair bit. Reports of significant riming, frozen snow and waist-deep drifts on the summits. Lots of winter ascents being done (no winter climbing that I know of, but peaks are being climbed by their normal routes).

At the moment the weather is so clear, sunny and calm that the snow-capped mountains are displayed at their very best: shining and free from cloud, full of winter splendour even though the valley is very autumnal at the moment. Thanks in part to our beer festival at the Clachaig, and in part to the excellent early-season winter conditions, the number of walkers in the glen is increasing.

Writing is also going tolerably well at the moment. I've temporarily given up rewriting old scenes. My task was to replace the character of George Trevelyan with Sandy Mackay, a change forced upon me by a historical discrepancy. I had not realised what a mammoth task it is to replace even a minor character. Trevelyan only featured in three or four scenes but his personality is radically different to Mackay's, meaning that the interaction with the main characters, and ultimately the outcome of the scenes, are radically different. It was starting to get very tedious forcing my hand every five minutes to make sure that the overall plot wasn't affected.

The main difference is simple: Trevelyan was more of an 'awe-struck newbie'; Mackay is more assertive, more sure of himself, less easily impressed. He is also Scottish and a very experienced mountain walker. These minor differences are playing havoc with the plot on a low level!

I decided to start writing some new material before I got annoyed with the whole thing. I am now working on the scene where Geoffrey comes home to Trinity after his eventful weekend in the Lake District, in which he met John Robinson, O.G.Jones, W.P.Haskett-Smith and the Abraham Brothers for the first time. During the course of this weekend Edward Crowley changed his name to Aleister and had a minor nervous breakdown. I feel a bit sorry for poor Aleister at the moment: an awful lot has happened to him in a short space of time. He has been the victim of a betrayal by a friend, he's had a gun pointed at him, and he's been arrested by the Proctors and warned that if he does not mend his ways he will be sent down. He has also been evicted from his rooms at the Tobacconist's for unruly behaviour.

The upshot of all this is that Aleister greets Geoffrey by smashing a vase over his head (a case of mistaken identity). This is the point in the book where Geoffrey and Aleister begin to part ways, and will lead in a chapter or so to the famed incident where Geoffrey gives Aleister a 'black eye and a jolly good thrashing'. By the climax of the book they are confirmed enemies.

So the jolly, adventurous spirit of excitement in the first part of the book has now given way to a bleaker overall tone, with feuds between friends, the threat of the Proctors, and other factors shaping the personalities of Aleister and Geoffrey yet further. The main outcome is that Aleister is going to lose his grip on reality and become dangerous, and Geoffrey is going to become much more mature very quickly.

Progress is being made, but it's coming slowly!

A wild weekend

2008-10-26T12:53:00.002Z

Weather in the glen:
Squally. Winds light between showers and cloud occasionally clearing, but the showers that hit a couple of times every hour are big and mean, with torrential rain/hail and temporarily galeforce winds. Still not an ideal day to be out on the hills.

The weather was consistently bad throughout yesterday, with most of the walkers in the glen abandoning their plans in early afternoon and trudging back to the Clachaig, very wet! On this wash-out of a weekend my friends in the UEA Fell and Mountaineering Club are walking in the Peak District; I hope things were not too bad for them down there.

Also all over the news is the OMM disaster. For the first time in its history, the Original Mountain Marathon was cancelled yesterday, with hundreds of mountain racers taking shelter in extreme conditions on the mountains. Fourteen are still unaccounted for although I am confident they will be found safe and well. Despite the media uproar about 'irresponsible' runners, everyone participating in the event was adequately equipped and experienced. That said, however, pitching a tent in the kind of conditions on the mountains this weekend is not an easy task.

The debate is currently raging about how this will affect mountaineering in the UK, with some claiming that the public is going to become very unfriendly towards mountain-goers (the over-used phrase 'nanny state' has already been bandied about). Personally I don't think this will make the slightest bit of difference. Everyone will have forgotten about it in a few days, when the media latches onto some new story; and in any case, public opinion is not going to make a blind bit of difference to how we enjoy the mountains. And there are far too many walkers and mountaineers in the UK for our activities to be easily curtailed by legislation. We have representative bodies with sufficient clout to make our voices heard.

Anyway: what with the cold weather continuing here in Glencoe I am hopeful for some more snow on my days off on Thursday and Friday. Keeping fingers crossed.

Don't go up on the hill today

2008-10-25T10:53:00.002Z

Weather in the glen:
Indescribably foul. Storm force gusts, continuous torrential rain, rivers in spate. Very poor chance of survival on exposed high ridges. Mobility at valley level extremely difficult.

Despite the Biblical weather we are getting in Glencoe at the moment, a fair crowd turned up at the Clachaig for the first night of Octoberfest last night. Wolftrain were playing, mostly rock'n'roll and blues, and all fifteen ale pumps were on. We had a range of beers from Williams and Houston mostly, including such delights as Williams Red, Kelpie ale, and Houston Texas. Tonight the Pictoids are playing (a Scottish folk band). I'm particularly looking forward to the Skye ales later on in the week.

Apart from my eventful morning of winter mountaineering on Wednesday, I've done nothing in the mountains all week as the weather is so bad. A few intrepid souls are hopefully staying at the campsite (if their tent is still standing), or the hostel, and even setting off to climb the mountains; however the weather really is too severe for even the easiest walk at the moment.

Winter Mountaineering - a tale to make you laugh!

2008-10-22T21:21:00.004Z

Weather in the glen:
Superb winter mountaineering conditions this morning deteriorated around 1pm. Severe gales and torrential rain setting in for a few days.

Today before work I went for a quick romp up Dinnertime Buttress on Aonach Dubh--at least, that's what I had planned! Due to the dusting of snow I could see on the tops I packed my ice axe. It's lucky that I did!

I legged it up the lower half of Dinnertime Buttress in record time, practically fell-running to be honest as I had to be back in work by 12. When the climb began I could not find the easy Grade 1 variation so instead climbed a rather hard, smooth chimney (perhaps Moderate). This was to prove a mistake later on.

I topped out on the ridge in deep snow. Stob Coire nan Lochan ahead was in the full splendour of Scottish winter conditions, with a foot of snow, frozen hard above 1000m, and significant riming on the rocks. Turf was also frozen above 1000m. I dashed up the ridge, only having to slow when the steep terrain and hard snow necessitated the odd bit of step-cutting (crampons wouldn't have made too much difference here due to all the boulders).

Shortly after arriving on the summit, I saw a lone walker who was obviously lost, poorly-equipped and very scared. The temperature with wind-chill accounted for was probably -10 C, yet this chap was wearing one of those lightweight polythene ponchos and trainers. He had no spare food, no map, and no clear idea of what mountain he was on. After feeding him and having a chat I agreed to escort him to a point beneath the snow-line (one thousand feet below us). He brightened up considerably as we made progress. Securely-cut and stomped out steps seemed to boost his confidence although it must have been slippery work in trainers--I was wearing winter mountain boots.

If you are reading this blog entry, I didn't think to ask your name but I sincerely hope you got back to your car safely after we parted and I hope you haven't been put off the idea of mountain walking.

Unfortunately this considerable detour cost me 45 minutes and a thousand feet of re-ascent in order to start my descent back to Glencoe. By this time I decided to simply reverse Dinnertime Buttress as it is the most direct way from the summit to the Clachaig. I was hurrying and therefore did not take the time to find the easiest way off; I ended up downclimbing the difficult chimney I had done on the way up. I got wedged in the chimney and was unable to move for about an hour! It would have been hilarious if it wasn't so serious--in an effort to free myself I dropped my backpack down the cliff, which cartwheeled through 200ft of empty space into the depths of No.2 Gully. Oh dear!

Eventually some dubious combined tactics with my ice axe freed me from that stupid chimney, and after carefully downclimbing the steep final moves I went searching for my rucksack. I found it at the bottom of an enormous waterfall. Luckily the damage was minimal: a snapped end to my trekking pole, a missing buckle and Camelbak nozzle. Amazingly my camera was still working.

By the time I got back to the Clachaig I was almost three hours late for work! My muscles were burning from a lot of fell-running and strenuously trying to escape from the chimney. Luckily Jack is a climber too and understood the situation, so all was well, even though my being late was at least half my fault for rushing too much and not trying to find the safest way down the buttress.

Anyway--despite the minor epic on the way down it was an exceptionally good morning on the mountain. Just have a look at some of the pictures I took.

More snow!

2008-10-21T14:32:00.003Z

Weather in the glen:
Snow down to about 500m but melting. Cold at valley level, patchy cloud and occasional showers (snow up top). Forecast to deteriorate.

Some mates of mine were lucky enough to get up into the mountains this morning (I started early so could not join them). They did a ridge walk over Stob Coire nan Lochan in fine snowy conditions, but did not require winter gear. Apparently an excellent morning was had by all; I'm very jealous as by the time I get a day off (Thursday) the weather is set to be back to the norm, ie. wind and rain!

For my days off this week I will be doing some solo walking. Thinking about Sgurr na h-Ulaidh ("The Peak of the Treasure") on Thurs as it is one of the only Munros hereabouts I have not yet climbed, and it will also be suitable for filthy weather. =) Might have a look at the Aonach Eagach on Friday if it's not too bad. On Saturday morning Rachael and I are hopefully doing a climb before we have to start work at 3; Barn Wall Route on Aonach Dubh is looking promising at the mo.

Feast your eyes on this, the view from the Staff Bothy at half past ten this morning:

Curved Ridge

2008-10-17T15:50:00.003Z

Weather in the glen:
Clear and sunny yesterday, with scattered showers and a few inches of melting snow on the highest Lochaber summits. Today, milder and more showery but still better than average. High cloud base but ragged lower cloud in places. Occasional clear spells.

Yesterday Rach, Isi and I had a fantastic climb on Curved Ridge, one of the classic routes up the NE Face of Stob Dearg on Buachaille Etive Mor. As a route I have always wanted to do, it was very satisfying to have it all to ourselves in good weather! The climbing was never hard, entertaining throughout and on ribs of excellent rock. The rope only came out for the steep crux pitch on the upper ridge.

The rock architecture and scenery all around was more impressive than I would have believed. Rannoch Wall is a vast, sheer cliff reaching high above Curved Ridge; classic climbs such as Agag's Groove run up and around the face. It's an inspiring mountain cliff and I think Curved Ridge was an ideal initial venture onto this side of the mountain.

The view from the top was lovely as ever, with the huge drop down onto the moor all the more impressive as we had climbed the steepest side of the mountain. A few inches of snow lay around the summit cairn giving it a wintry feel.

We finished the day in the bar as usual, with whisky and hot chocolate making a fine end to the adventure. All in all another classic day in the mountains, and probably the finest weather we've had since we've been here!

Today Rach and I made a trip into Fort William for shopping and ogling at things in Nevisport (I ended up getting a pair of new gloves, as my old ones have worn out). Nearly bought a pair of approach/scrambling shoes as I have been converted to their usefulness. Had coffee, ate pie, got food supplies in Morrisons, then returned home before heading off to the Ice Factor in Kinlochleven ... only to find out it closes early on a Saturday. =( So we only got two routes in before we had to go home again!

Never mind, it's been a great 'weekend' all round.

The Promised Land

2008-10-14T08:59:00.002Z

In glorious & happy memory of those whose names are inscribed below - members of this club - who died for their country in the European War 1914 - 1918. These fells were acquired by their fellow-members & by them vested in the National Trust for the use & enjoyment of the people of our land for all time.

Recently I have been giving some thought to the exact nature of 'mountaineering communities'. This is a nebulous term, but I understand it to mean any community or gathering which has formed, or been formed, for the main purpose of enjoying the mountains. Throughout the course of my research it has often occurred to me that there are many striking similarities between all of the great historic communities of climbers. United by a common purpose, the group quickly becomes very close and develops its own traditions and legends. The gathering-place often becomes a symbol in its own right: a haven, a special place where the normal rules of life are suspended. Evenings are spent in song, music, laughter, games, and general frivolity. The very strongest of lifelong friendships are forged in these places.

Here are some examples of historic climbing communities.
Wastdale Head, 1870s - 1910s
Pen y Gwryd, 1880s - 1890s
Pen y Pass, 1890s - 1920s
Seiler's Inn (the Monte Rosa Hotel), Zermatt, during the Golden Age of Alpine exploration, particularly the 1860s
The Clachaig Inn, throughout the history of British mountaineering
The Trinity Night Climbers, 1890s - 1960s

There are doubtless many others I am not acquainted with.

As I steep myself in the legends of these places, I find that more and more they all seem to tap a common spirit, something in man that responds to the act of banding together to climb mountains. This is particularly notable with the great trinity of Wastdale Head, Pen y Gwryd, and the Pass. Their members inter-mingled a great deal; they are in a sense one entity.

I am amazed at the similarities between these three communities and the UEA Fell and Mountaineering Club that I know and love. The legends and traditions are in essence the same. We have table bouldering, parlour tricks and many of the same feats and challenges, improbable games, that were being played in the smoking-room at the Wastdale Head Inn a hundred years ago. The same spirit is alive and well today. To my mind, there is little practical difference: every mountaineering community or club is in essence the same.

Which brings me to the question of what this means.

To the pre-War climbers who made Pen y Pass the special place it was, and to the pioneers of Wastdale Head, the mountains were a place they went in order to escape from normality and create new and heroic lives. However, this magical place did not last. The Great War of 1914 - 1918 smashed the happy existence of these communities and killed many of their members. In a way, the climbers who fought in the War were often fighting for their mountains, because for them, mountains represented freedom.

Long after the War ended, on the 8th of June 1924, a dismal and foggy day, Geoffrey Winthrop-Young tramped up the nose of Great Gable on his wooden leg, accompanied by hundreds of friends. It was close to the very hour in which George Mallory, another cornerstone of the great Pen y Pass community, died on Everest. At the summit of Great Gable, Geoffrey and his friends unveiled a plaque dedicating the mountain to the memory of their friends who had died in the Great War. They also noted that the National Trust had recently acquired many acres of their most beloved mountain land for the Nation, to be safeguarded and cherished 'for all time'.

Great Gable has become a symbol that represents, in many ways, the spirit of the old mountaineering communities that helped to establish British mountaineering in its own right. It reminds us that the freedom to enjoy the mountains was hard-won and should never be taken for granted.

Geoffrey Young intended the Lake District to be a sort of 'Promised Land' where men could be free and enjoy the benefits of the mountains forever. I think that Geoffrey Young's promised land exists today. It's not limited just to the Lake District, but to any mountainous area where people join together to climb, swap stories, play silly buggers in the hut after a long day on the hill, and make friends. The promised land of the mountains exists within us and always will.

Afar in foreign graves they lie,
Not here where they could wish to be,
"Under the wide and starry sky,"
Upheld by British crag and scree.
And yet we felt their spirits dwell
Amidst the circumambient air,
Above the heights they loved so well,
Austere, enchanting, cloud-capped, bare.
For those who bravely die, 'twas said,
Their tomb is the wide earth's extent,
And Gable is for these, our dead,
Their playground, and their monument.
- W. Snow

Epic plans and chilling in the bar

2008-10-13T23:00:00.003Z

Weather in the glen:
Light winds, mild, patchy cloud and occasional showers. Better than average! There are very few walkers and climbers around at the moment, so please take the opportunity to get some quiet mountains in.

Following a slow weekend in the Clachaig (apart from the habitually manic Saturday night), we are now making plans for our adventures this week. The first objective for Thursday is Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor: one of the classic ridges on the enormous NE Face of Stob Dearg. I have only climbed the Buachaille once before, via an exploratory scrambling line in Corrie na Tulaich, so this will be my first venture onto this historic mountain face. As one of the 'great North Faces of Scotland' I am looking forward to this immensely. Currently, the weather forecast is surprisingly good, with high winds and showers (snow above 950m) expected.

Our other day off is looking a bit uncertain at the mo but Jimmy has informed us of some low-level crags near Onich that seem suitable. Some of Rachael's friends are coming up to visit so we are thinking of taking a group over and doing some top-roping. Before you hiss and boo, we are told that the routes are virtually unprotectable slabs so I doubt there would be any point in leading anything anyway! ;-)

I have also been spending time writing recently. I'm finding the pub a useful venue for writing: it has tables, chairs, and best of all, an atmosphere conductive to writing fiction. I find it impossible to write in my room (which has no desk or chair) or in the Bothy lounge. I've received a few funny looks and queries so far as I scribble away with steel dip pen in my archaic semi-Italic handwriting, but I'm getting work done, which is the main thing.

On a similar note, I have found a talent for doing the sign artwork in the bar, as I can write in a fairly reliable Roman hand (also Italic big caps). It takes a bit longer to update the board with the list of ales, but it gives it a beautifully 18th century style that I think quite fits with the style of the Clachaig bar. =) I spent about half an hour adding a panorama of the Zermatt mountains to the bottom of the board in the main bar, and then the North Face of Ben Nevis in the Bidean Lounge. Summat to do when business is quiet, anyway !

My mission to find out more about Scottish mountaineering history has begun by reading "High Endevours - the Life and Legend of Robin Smith". An inspiring read so far, made all the more tragic by his early death. Even so, given how much I still have to learn about the history of Lakeland and Welsh climbing, I am acutely aware that this is a very tentative gesture into Scottish mountaineering history.

A traditional day out

2008-10-09T23:39:00.002Z

Weather in the glen:
Wind and rain. Gusting to galeforce, persistent light rain, although the cloud base is fairly high. Mild temperatures.

Today Rach and I climbed B-F Buttress Route on the West Face of Aonach Dubh, a scramble weaving its way up and along complex Grade 3 terrain. It was a very traditional adventure, with climbing varying between steep heather, moss, choss, mud and the occasional rib of good rock! At least half of the climbing was in dank and unfrequented gullies. It's one of those scrambles/easy climbs that is so rarely climbed that the native lush vegetation is still in virgin condition.

The route was fantastic, with several exposed and exciting situations and a crux section involving an exposed traverse of a sharp pinnacle. This was the only section we needed the rope for (and a couple of slings): I belayed Rach across it, then abseiled the pinnacle into the gap myself.

We topped out into a howling gale and struggled up to Stob Coire nan Lochan, as one cannot have a day of scrambling without a summit. =) We decided not to descend via Bidean and Stob Coire nam Beith as the wind was threatening to blow us off the ridge, so ended up going down Coire nan Lochan instead.

All in all a fantastic day, finishing with fine food in the lodge, and ale and whisky in the bar. =)

(I'm not doing any walking or climbing tomorrow as the forecast is abysmal. Might go to the Ice Factor instead!)

Must find more time to write!

2008-10-08T13:43:00.002Z

For remembrance of
JOHN WILSON ROBINSON
of Whinfell Hall in Lorton
Who died 1907 at Brigham
One hundred of his comrades
and friends raised this.
He knew and loved as none other
these his native crags and fells
whence he drew
simplicity strength and charm.
"We climb the hill : from end to end
Of all the landscape underneath
We find no place that does not breathe
Some gracious memory of our friend."

I've been so busy since starting at the Clachaig that I've been neglecting the Veil. Unfortunately I am still at the same point in the story that I was before I left. I think the problem is, conversely, that although I am amongst the mountains from which I draw inspiration, they are not THE mountains of my story. I do not know enough about the rich history of Scottish mountaineering. My expertise is Wales, the Lakes, and the Alpine arena.

To me, Glencoe is special because of personal memories and experiences; it does not resonate with the passion and heroic spirit of the early ages of mountaineering. It is not like Wasdale Head, or Zermatt, or Pen y Pass, places that have the power to awe and humble me simply because I know so much of their stories. Peaks like Great Gable, Snowdon, and the Matterhorn are so steeped in legends that they have become monuments, icons, ideas, far beyond mere mountains. The solution is obvious: I need to learn about the history of mountaineering in Scotland!

But for the time being it's still the history of Lakeland and Wales that enthralls me. I feel that I know the major players quite well (they are my characters, after all) but so far the big names of Scottish mountaineering are still simply names, without people behind them that I feel I know. Robinson's Cairn on Pillar in the Lake District is a place of pilgrimage for me because of the man it commemorates. The same follows for Great Gable, the mountain which symbolises freedom for entire generations of hill-lovers. I feel like there must be a similar history to Scotland.

Exploring

2008-10-06T21:12:00.002Z

Weather today:
Weather turned during the morning, with a lowering cloud base to around 600m and showers approaching the glen. Increasingly strong gusty winds. Mild temperatures.

After work today I went exploring on the buttresses to the right of Clachaig Gully, looking for a new scrambling route. It turned out to be 45-degree heather and choss, with the bare rock sections tending towards the overhanging, disintegrating and rotten! No scrambling interest here, then.

Eventually I found a route I thought would go at around Mod (the left-edge of the crescent buttress). It was delightful slabby climbing, with a big drop and grand exposure to the right, although the crux felt around Diff so I turned back, as I was on my tod and wearing big boots! I must go back and do it again at some point, with a climbing partner and rope.

So for the time being, a scrambling link-up from the Clachaig to the summit of Sgurr nam Fiannaidh has not yet been discovered!

Weather on the turn...

2008-10-05T16:05:00.002Z

Currently still clear and sunny in the Coe, beautiful conditions on the tops for scrambling and climbing on certain buttresses, although northerly-facing areas will probably still be wet. Small patches of snow on SCNL summit indicate very cold temperatures overnight. However, the valley temperature is steadily on the rise and the weather is forecast to turn bad again at some point after Monday, just in time for my days off. =)

Currently not sure what we're going to do. We had been thinking about a bivvying trip (as Rach and I both have Thursday and Friday free) but not with this weather forecast! So it might be something over towards Creise. Also the possibility of a trip to Skye coming up--watch this space.

Last night was a bit mental at the bar as we had live music after 9. Took a while to clear up! All good fun though.

Daily weather report

2008-10-04T16:54:00.002Z

As I now live in the Glen, I suppose it might be helpful to provide daily reports on observed weather. This will probably be more useful over the coming winter but I'll start getting into the practice right away.

Considerable overnight rain, coupled with warmer temperatures, stripped the snow from the mountains. Persistent drizzle and low cloud suddenly cleared in late morning, leading to very clear conditions with only a little high cloud at around 1,100m. Tiny patches of snow still in evidence high on Stob Coire nan Lochan. More snow probably survives on Bidean nam Bian's summit. Temperature at valley level is currently much colder.

Photos taken at 5:50pm:

Snow in them tharr hills

2008-10-03T15:46:00.003Z

Woke up to a covering of snow down to below 600m on Aonach Mor and the Aonach Eagach. Winter has arrived in Glencoe--albeit temporarily! Unfortunately I'm working today, but we're already planning a grand adventure for next week ... just in time for the snow and cold weather to turn to the status quo of wind and rain. ;-)

Mountain days

2008-10-01T20:02:00.004Z

My two days off this week have been well-spent! Yesterday I did an easy walk up Sgurr nam Fiannaidh (the last Munro on the Aonach Eagach ridge), then across to the Pap of Glencoe for a spot of scrambling. The weather improved throughout the day, giving gorgeous views from the Pap.

In the evening, myself, Rachael and Izzie went over to the Ice Factor in Kinlochleven to have a look at the climbing wall. It's a MUCH better wall than the one at UEA, with some brilliant moulded features that seem to be based on mountain volcanic rock. We did a few good routes, myself still sticking mostly to Grade 4 routes as I have not been climbing indoors (or anything remotely hard outdoors) for many months! However I climbed a nice wee roof so was pleased to see I can still do overhangs. We've now joined the Ice Factor so are planning on climbing there every week.

For today, Rach and I had been planning an epic adventure on Bidean nam Bian. The forecast was for whiteouts and blizzards, so we felt rather cheated when the weather turned out to be sunny and warm! In the end we got a lift down to the Lost Valley but spend two hours trying to find the start of our route, as the crag didn't seem to correspond to the guidebook topo. We started along a slippery and exposed Grade 3 traverse thinking it was the easy Zig-Zags we were looking for. In the end we probably climbed 300m more than we needed to!

Finally, after much deliberation, we decided we had indeed found the start of our route. It turned out to be very easy, even for a Grade 1 scramble, but it was a fine way up a big cliff. The short pitch of scrambling in the middle was delightful even in the wet, and reminded me a great deal of Jack's Rake in the Lakes.

After climbing to the top of Gearr Aonach we continued along the ridge to Stob Coire nan Lochan--an exposed, rocky ridge walk--then Bidean nam Bian. The weather had closed in by this point and it became very cold, then started to snow. No whiteouts unfortunately (!) but there were significant flurries!

The descent, over Stob Coire nam Beith and down the valley to the pub, was accomplished quickly enough. In the great tradition of Fell, and indeed wherever people join together to climb mountains and have a good time, we finished our day with the Post-Hill Pint in the bar. Beer really does taste better when you've earned it.

I'll leave you with some pictures from our day:

I'm in Glencoe!

2008-09-28T12:56:00.004Z

Arrived at the Clachaig yesterday after my epic mini-tour of England, including drinks and laughter at the Fat Cat to say good-bye to people in Norwich, and a lovely evening with Grace in Nottingham. The journey up to the Coe was a bit fraught, with double-booked seats on the train and general faffing at all stages. Got there eventually, though!

Everyone here is very friendly and I have a nice little room in the Staff Bothy. Very like student digs, which makes me feel right at home! There's a fantastic view over to Aonach Mor and Sgurr nam Fiannaidh, the first peak of the Aonach Eagach ridge. And the rest of the glen is only a short walk away.

Anyway my very first shift starts in just under an hour. Last night was mental at the bar but hopefully it will not be so busy tonight!

I went for a stroll down to the village this morning. Here are some photos I took:

Just to make you jealous...

2008-09-24T09:42:00.004Z

Here's some photos of the place I'm going to live over the winter! Click on the thumbnails for larger versions. All photos ©Alex Roddie 2007 - 2008.

1. The Aonach Eagach from the Lost Valley
2. The mountains of Glencoe from the summit of Buachaille Etive Mor
3. Glen Etive from the Bealach Dearg

Packing!

2008-09-24T08:22:00.002Z

At the moment my main task is packing for the Big Move. Somehow I have to pack everything I'm going to need for the whole winter into three bags that I can take with me on the train and lug through Glasgow. This includes all of my winter climbing & mountaineering equipment, not to mention all the clothes I'll need, plus a selection of my reference books that I can't do without. It's going to be hard cramming all that stuff into the bags, and even harder actually walking anywhere with them once they're full!

I'm looking forward to the next few days. Tomorrow I'm going up to Norwich for a visit to the Fat Cat with some of my friends who remain there, including James who has just gone up for Fresher's Week and is beginning the uni life. On Friday I am going to Nottingham to visit Grace at Nottingham Trent, which I'm looking forward to immensely--haven't been able to see her since Graduation!

On Saturday morning (very early) I am catching a train from Nottingham to Glasgow, then a coach up into the Land of the Mountain and the Flood itself. I should be at the Clachaig by half past five, and I start work the next day!

I think this is going to be fantastic, all in all. The time I spent in Glencoe and Glen Etive over the summer persuaded me that there really is no finer place in the world than Scotland. And the mountains in the autumn are, I feel, seen at their best; there is something in the burnished veil of bracken shrouding the fellsides that speaks to our heart. It won't be quite like the 'promised land' of Wasdale Head, but the longer I stay away from that hallowed corner of the Lake District the more special it becomes in my memory.

There will be plenty of time to go back to the Lake District in later years. For the time being, I have Glencoe to explore and enjoy!

The Rolls-Holdstock Company

2008-09-21T17:11:00.002Z

Stars? Of a truth; yet stars are born of the night ;
all that is great and human whispers death ;
story and thought of splendour mourn beneath
shadows of doubtful fate and frail delight.
-- GWY (from 'Wind and Hill')

I've been doing a bit of light research on Charles Rolls, one of my secondary characters. At this point in history he is a first-year Engineering student at Trinity, renowned for his habit of racing his bicycle around the streets of Cambridge. In October 1896 he drove a motor-car all the way back from Paris, with the help of his father. It was the first car ever to be stationed in Cambridge.

My original information indicated that he had been an active balloonist since about 1896. I had started to ponder on a possible subplot involving him anchoring his balloon on the roof of his lodgings, then using it to whisk away night climbers in peril. Unfortunately it now turns out he didn't have a balloon at this stage. Never mind!

One thing I have definitely settled, though, is the issue of his (fictional) first company: Rolls-Holdstock. This company is formed for the purpose of developing and marketing Arthur Wedgewood's lightning engine, a device based around an unspecified variation of the vacuum capacitor, capable of harnessing the energy from lightning bolts and converting it into safe power for vehicles. It's pure steampunk and of course nothing of the sort was ever developed, but it's the sort of thing Rolls might have done!

This machine is the centre of the controversy which will, through various misunderstandings and treacheries, result in Holdstock being chucked out of Trinity, Charles Rolls paying off the Court of Discipline with vast sums of money, and Aleister Crowley alienating himself from his few friends. This is the mechanism which will initiate the climax of the book. Geoffrey will be climbing with new friends, Thomas is ruined and in search of some new adventure to make his name, and Crowley is the bitter enemy of of them both.

Addition to the blog

2008-09-19T19:43:00.003Z

Just a quick note to explain the new 'Veil' time' counter that has appeared above. As my story is anchored so strongly in reality, I find it helpful to keep track of the precise time within the framework of my novel. This counter displays the current time from the perspective of my characters. It'll probably shoot back and forth in a haphazard fashion as I make changes here and there, but broadly it'll go forward as a constant reminder of my progress.

At the moment, 'Veil' time' is 7:35am GMT on Monday November the 11th, 1895, and Aleister Crowley is being read a list of his crimes by two Proctors of the College's Court of Discipline.

For Trinity!

2008-09-19T10:53:00.002Z

For Trinity, whose height first brought
the breadth and vision to our thought ;
whose love of freedom bade us look
beyond the hedge-row and the book ...
--GWY (dedication to 'Freedom')

The Veil is progressing well, albeit very slowly. It's taking me a long time to make the necessary changes to the plot. Sandy Mackay is slowly edging his way into the earlier chapters, making the necessary replacement of G.M.Trevelyan, who had appeared a year or so too early in the first version of the story. Mackay is going to become one of Geoffrey's most prominent friends from Chapter VII onwards.

Recently I was contacted by an author currently conducting research on the relationship between Geoffrey Young and Aleister Crowley. It would appear that evidence actually exists that the two knew each other--I had strongly suspected it all along, but at last I am able to put my finger on actual evidence! Apparently in 1895 Young gave Crowley a solid thrashing and a black eye. This fits perfectly with my vision of how the story is going to progress from now on.

Chapter VII is a radical turning-point. The original 'Trinity' of friends, Young, Holdstock and Crowley, breaks down. Crowley is forced to answer for his many vices in the Court of Discipline, but in a moment of weakness offers to do a trade: he will give the Proctors evidence against Thomas Holdstock if they give him another chance. Originally I had envisioned him betraying Thomas out of malice but I think that is being unfair on Crowley. After all, he's going through a very tough time in his life.

As a result of this affair, Holdstock is forced to leave Trinity and Young gives Crowley a thump in the face. Young then moves back to Jesus Lane and concentrates on making new friends. The 'official' timeline of Geoffrey's first year at Trinity re-asserts itself as my story moves closer to historical fact. The main setting of the novel returns to Trinity College for more adventures on the rooftops dodging the Proctors and their dastardly assistants.

However, I've been having fun with the big scandal about Thomas Holdstock and this won't be the last of it. It's still a bit of a mystery: Arthur Wedgewood's mysterious contraption that generates fierce heat and attracts lightning bolts; the involvement of the dashing Charles Rolls who is hell-bent on procuring an airship and anchoring it to the roof of the library, not to mention buying a motor car and racing it around the streets of Cambridge; and Captain Richard Holdstock, absent without leave from the Royal Navy and up to his neck in the whole conspiracy. It's a fairly indulgent sub-plot on my part, a chance for me to add a little taste of steampunk and classic adventure to an otherwise fairly down to earth story. I have an idea how it might all work out in the end.

So I'm having fun. Young is starting to develop more maturity, Charles Rolls is gallivanting around Cambridge like Mr Toad, and Crowley has begun his headlong slide into depravity and dishonour, while still remaining a broadly sympathetic character. All the while, the great North Face of the Matterhorn looms in the background, waiting for its chance to play a final and devastating role in the story. I can afford to have fun and let the characters have fun for the time being. The tone of the entire story (beyond this volume) takes an irrevocable downward turn before very long.