Sigrid - sewing projects

Happy new year

2010-01-02T18:08:00.001+01:00

I wish you all a very happy new year, may 2010 bring you what you wish it will.

Above picture is from the London Eye, taken by my son. We were in London on New Years Eve , together with my sister and her family and watched the fireworks. We had a really good view, and the fireworks were spectacular. For us it was the first time we spent the “old and new” as we call it not at home or with friends. It was fun for this once, but no next time for us.

I didn’t do any sewing in the past two weeks and have no firm plans for this year. I’ll be taking sewing/pattern drafting lessons from February to improve my skills.

Further I would like to be sewing more garments that go together well. My feeling is that I do have too little of that. I’ve been buying a lot of fabric recently and don’t even know where to start with sewing. Below a picture for 7 fabrics that are to be 3 bottoms and 4 tops. This time a lot of grey in the fabrics. There is no jacket planned in this series, as I find that I always wear jackets with a plain top. Somehow I always get stuck in a wardrobe plan when trying to incorporate a jacket that has to go with all tops. Either the jacket will not go with all tops, or all tops are boringly simple. Perhaps I’m fussing too much about that, but my plan is not for a contest, so I’m not incorporating a jacket now (though I still will make a jacket soon I hope)

More details on the patterns to use later. I’m going to catch up a bit on blog reading (there’s over 300 unread posts, that’s what you have after 2 weeks not reading your bloglist) and trying to decide what to do sew first.

Finishing this post with a big Thank You to Kat, for whom I was the most inspirational blogger of last year. It’s great to read that my posts were so inspiring for her. Hope I can be inspiring to some of you this year too.

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I’ve put comment moderation on. I reject comments that have links to non-sewing related websites, even if you seem to read my posts and comment on the content of it. Advertise in another way please, don’t use my blog for it.

Merry Christmas

2009-12-20T23:30:00.001+01:00

Also here in the Netherlands there is more snow today than I care for. I’m happy for my children that it’s vacation time, so they won’t have to go to school on their bicyles tomorrow. Instead they can enjoy the snow, though they’re a bit too old to play in it.

I planned to show some pictures too, but my camera is playing tricks with me, the memory card shows my sewing projects, but not the snow pictures I thought I had taken. Pity, as they would have been great to remember how high the snow was today. We are not used to these amounts of snow, most years we don’t see any at all.

I won’t be blogging the next two weeks. No looking back to the sewing projects of 2009. It’s been a hectic year for me in which I’ve done less sewing than I hoped for. I’d like to start 2010 with sewing a small winter wardrobe (January/February). But it might come to nothing: I thought I would have sewn a jacket before Christmas, and didn’t even trace the pattern. But I will be trying to at least come up with a plan for a wardrobe, I still am intrigued by that idea, but don’t want to be in a timeframe or contest with specific rules.

Wishing you all a very good and peaceful Christmas.

Posting this anyhow

2009-12-18T22:21:00.001+01:00

Thank you for your comments on my previous post. Though I thought I was getting these comments because of the subject of the post, it appears to be a more general invasion. When I caught up reading the sewing blogs a bit on Wednesday night, I saw more posts with complaints on these comments and quite a few of you indicated in the comments that you get those irritating comments too. Chosen the wrong public I guess.

For the moment I won’t bother anymore, other then removing the messages as soon as I can and being a bit more careful again on the words I use for the ’unmentionables”.

The sewing matters: this afternoon I left my computer screen, having “square eyes” from too many programming hours this week. Left the laundry and ironing for tomorrow, the cleaning for my cleaner on Monday (lucky to have found one this summer) and finished the item I was working on. The fit is great, which you won’t see from the pictures. The accompanying items are cut and will be finished very soon.

A bra

2009-12-11T22:51:00.002+01:00

It’s been quite some time since I showed some ling erie on this blog. As interlude I’m sewing a new set. The lace for this set was bought quite some time ago, and I waited sewing it till I had my pattern fitting me again, I like it so much that I didn’t want to risk it on trying a new pattern with it.

One of the things I’ve changed on my pattern is the downward hike on the back. It’s a technique described in the “bra makers manual” of Beverly Johnson, intended to make sure the back doesn’t go up. She also describes this here.

As always I’m trying to get symmetry, but did not try it for the bridge part of it. The embroidery is rather full/thick, a seam on the bridge was no option this time.

This set will be finished grey elastic and shoulderstraps, the exact color that is in the lace too.

Pants again

2009-12-08T17:27:00.001+01:00

Let me start with showing a picture of the two pattern pieces for the right side waistband. The lower is the outside (good) fabrid, the smaller the inside. I made similar alterations for the left side of it.

As you can see, it is a shaped waistband, so Katherine h, you can try this too if you would want to. Not the complete waistband is cut on the fold, only the center front partially.

A detail from the finished waistband.

As interfacing I user the Pro Tailor deluxe interfacing from SewExciting. Mici asked what was so special about Pam’s interfacing. Well, the quality is outstanding, it’s much better than the vlieseline that is available here and it’s great value for money. It’s 150 cm wide too, while vlieseline is only 90 cm wide. And she has a sale now!

The inside with lining and zipper fly.

I like garments that look good inside too, even if I'm the only one who ever sees this. This was something I found disappointing in David Page Coffin's book, as he never uses lining, and doesn't care much about the look on the inside.

Pictures from my pants are not very good, to show you something of the details I had to alter the images a lot. Daylight pictures are difficult now. I wore these pants today, and they feel very good. The wrinkling is not to be fussed about. As pants shape differently with every move you make, there will always be a wrinkle/pleat somehow, but I think that this quite good.

A fysiotherapist concluded a few months ago that my left leg is a bit longer than my right leg. It’s strange to see that reflected in the pictures I make for my blog. I’ve noticed before, and you can see it here again too. For the picture I show it with my shirt tucked in, but normally I wouldn’t wear it like that. Today I wore it with a short jacket that I made two years ago.

To conclude a reply to Rebeca, who commented on my previous post yesterday, asking for help finding a free pattern: Rebeca, I think you get a better response to a question like this if you post it in a more general sewing forum like Stitchers Guild or Pattern Review. The comment section of my blog won’t get that much attention. For the shirt you’re looking for and the purpose (costume), I would go for a t shirt and a rectangular piece of fabric for the cowl, if possible/necessary cut on the bias. Good luck finding/making what you need.

Pants – waistband

2009-12-06T22:38:00.001+01:00

After one more (undocumented) muslin I decided I could make the pants in the final fabric. They’re almost finished, the lining has to be sewn and set in. Buttonhole, button and hemming are then the last steps, planned for tomorrow evening. The first picture again shows a wrinkle.I’m not showing it yet, it also needs a good pressing and I’d like to wait till it’s completely finished for the final evaluation.

For the finishing of the waistband I was inspired by the book ‘Making trousers’ from David Page Coffin. I’m not overwhelmed by this book (and certainly not by the irritating music on the accompanying dvd, which you can’t turn off first time, as sometimes there is a tiny bit of spoken information) but it is inspirational, what as such is good. One of the eye-openers was to make the waistband on the fold and make the inside waistband shorter. It makes for less seam allowances when sewing the button hole. Hope you get the idea from these pictures (as said, lining still to be added).

Another top and answering a few questions

2009-11-29T21:47:00.001+01:00

Just before the working week starts again I finished my last of the “production line” sewing of tops. I do like Jalie tops for their basic, good fitting patterns, but leave it to BurdaStyle (trying to get used to the new name of BWOF) to make more special knit tops. In my opinion they don’t have knit top patterns often enough and could do some change to the designing of armhole and sleevecap. BurdaStyle instructions always tell you to to sew the side seams first and then set in the sleeves, like in a blouse. In the black top of yesterday I changed the armhole and sleevecap to those of Jalie 2449 and have sewn the sleeves in flat (shoulder seams - then sleeves -under sleeve and side seams in one go).

In this top (June 2007, no 110) no side seams at all. I used red embroidery thread for the lower thread in my coverstitch, and topstitched from the wrong side. Quick and easy pattern, but you have to pay attention to the construction of the sleeves. I might not write reviews on PR for these tops, all these have been reviewed often.

Nancy K: the way Debbie “cheats” with the sizing is exactly what I do for BurdaStyle tops like this. I start with size 40 at shoulder height and taper down to size 42 at the lowest point of the armhole. In this way I create the space I need at bust height, and have less in the shoulder area.

Answering some questions:

Meli88a: the band of the cardigan is attached with the serger and topstitched as described above for this top. A review of this cardigan (grey version) is here, with links to more pictures. Debbie: the shoulder certainly isn’t drop-down, it’s a normal shoulder width.

Tina asked whether I used Pam’s interfacing for lingerie too. The answer is no, I never used it for that, but think that the tricot interfacing might be suitable.

Thrillingfindz: the purple jacket is August 2008, no 115.

Today I browsed the December Burdastyle again. What do you think of this picture? Leisure time is the subject: do you do your knitting standing?

Tops

2009-11-28T22:55:00.001+01:00

I made a few tops the past days. One evening I traced the patterns, the next evening I cut them all and then I threaded all machines with black thread, put in new needles and started sewing in a few sessions. The result:

Jalie 2805 in two versions

Basic black top with V-neckline

With overlapped V-neckline (buttons not yet on, must have some good ones somewhere, just can’t find them)

BurdaStyle 01-2009-110

A bit more detailed in the lighter picture below

And earlier this week I made the New look cardigan. The buttons reflect the light different. They really are purple. It’s difficult to take good pictures right now, it’s dark so early.

Looks like easy pieces, don’t you think? The Jalie tops and the cardigan were, but my seam ripper did come in action for the Burdastyle top (nothing to do with BWOF, my fault)!

I started using decorative elastic at the edge. It gave puckers with topstitching and I was not too happy with the result in general, too much pajama-look. That was the point I picked up the seam ripper, took half the top apart, just cut off the elastic and gave it the neckband as shown above. Now it’s great, I tried it on and DD said it looked like I just bought it from a special store. Quite a compliment.

The black fabric was from an online store that I can highly recommend to my Dutch readers if you’re looking for quality fabrics: JerseyFashion. I bought two meters, it’s 1.60 wide, not cheap, but very good quality. I managed to get two tops from this, what in the end wasn’t even that expensive for two tops. They also sell the red/white/black fabric, which I bought earlier elsewhere. Different structure, but also very nice quality.

Next: Finishing the wrap top and one other top from this series and then back to the pants. I keep postponing.

Visualizing

2009-11-25T17:38:00.001+01:00

Trying to visualize the effect of two patterns with different fabrics. I’m not too good at using the more advanced functions of Paint Shop, but I did well enough for my needs. I don’t want to use more time on this than I did.

I love all the jackets that I showed in last post, but have a preference, like many of you, for the first one. I think it is a good pattern to use, even though I’m not using a plaid. It will be not casual though, that is clear by this way of looking at it. The motorcycle jacket is a good second, and something I just want to try, either in the blue fabric or in the tweed/bouclé. So these two are the jackets that I’m planning to make this winter (though I could always change my mind). I’ll keep the others in mind for another time.

And Kay, you had to laugh because of the preference we have for the same patterns, I had to laugh when I saw that you had the same thought for the buttonholes as I have. I read Brigitte’s review of this jacket yesterday, and saw your comment on this. So it may be a transatlantic sew-along, though it will be a week or two before I will start on this (with a muslin).

Planning ahead

2009-11-23T21:59:00.001+01:00

This week I'm working on the cardigan, t-shirt and pants fitting. Thank you Nóra for the suggestion of the BWOF shirt pattern. It's a nice pattern, but with the horizontal line in it a bit more complicated to get a good fit. Enough on my hands with the pants fitting for now.

But in the meantime I’m planning ahead. Two years ago I bought this beautiful fabric from EmmaOneSock. Wonderful fabrics Linda has, and if shipping wasn’t that expensive I would buy more there. With one exception (Pam’s interfacing) I stopped buying overseas, though I’m regularly tempted, because I can’t help myself browsing the site.

The fabric is black/brown and I finally want to use it, giving more accent to the black than the brown, which was established last year not te be one of my good colors. But which pattern to use? I like making jackets, though reality is I don’t wear them too often. I thought about using a jeans jacket pattern, but that’s just a bit too casual perhaps. This is my shortlist. What do you think?

In combination with black fabric for the strip at the seams?

Always like a different collar/neckline.

Think this one might be too formal, but love the neckline.

Not my usual style, but one can’t always make the same thing, can’t you?
Don’t you think this is the same pattern as the next one? Burda re-using the pattern with a twist.

Patrones blouse no 63 – issue 284

2009-11-21T14:20:00.001+01:00

The line drawing from the magazine

The picture and my version beside.

As I told you in a previous post, the blouse is in the plus size range of Patrones. The smallest size is 50, and bust measurement for that size is almost 20 cm more than my bust size. Not a good idea to try to make that pattern smaller, too much difference.

But when you look at the picture in the magazine and at the cutting layout, you’ll see that this is a basic v-neckline blouse with vertical darts (picture on the left). What I did was finding a Burda pattern with the same type of dart in my size. In the March issue of 2005 I found the blouse of the picture on the right. I transferred the neckline of the Patrones pattern to this one and compared it to the neckline of another blouse I made with a V-neckline. For this pattern I traced a size 40 in the shoulder area, and tapered down to 42 at bust level. For the cuff and collar I referred to the instructions of Patrones: basic rectangles.

After showing the picture of the cuff earlier this week I put the sleeves in, and found them too puffy. So I took the elastic out and used longer elastic. Much better now.

Detail of the collar. It’s handstitched to the neckline.This picture does the color best justice on my monitor. The fabric is purple with black lines and a bit of shine in it.

Another inside picture. The instructions don’t tell you what to do with the edges of the collar and cuff, where the cords are pulled through. I made a small seam before foldeing the collar part and left them open between the lines of stitching for elastic/cords. You can see that in the picture below.

I made sure that the seam of the collar was not at one of the edges, but a little off the the center on the under side of the collar. In this way the gathering of the edges of the collar is the same, there is no extra thickness at one of the edges.

All in all a nice project to work on, and I’m quite happy with the result.

Sorry about the picture

2009-11-17T20:52:00.001+01:00

Working on several projects, today the muslin for pants.

Not the most charming view, this is my pants muslin for Vogue 2896. Same pants, only standing slightly different. It’s a muslin, but if I can make it a wearable muslin I would be pleased. The fabric is not too expensive and mainly man-made fibre. I wanted to make a muslin with a fabric that has the same sort of drape as the black fabric that I want to use next. My experience this year was that I finally had a muslin right, and the drape of the fabric was so different that I had wrinkles again.

Now I really want to make a basic tnt pattern, so that I can make a couple of pants relatively quick. I need to make quite a few.

How time flies, I was looking for the picture of the last time I made this one, and saw that it’s two years ago. Then it looked like the picture below (can you tell I love pinstripes?). I think the fit in the newer version above is better, but should I take up the inseam of the back part?

I’ve taken out width in the upper part of the back, as shown in the Threads article that Summerset mentioned in a post. She had the tip from Nancy K. Clear that the sewing community helps us.

Your advise is hightly appreciated.

Cuff

2009-11-15T23:27:00.001+01:00

It’s been a busy weekend, but I got a little sewing done. I cut a muslin for pants, and started on the Patrones blouse, for which I started with a BWOF pattern, as the Patrones blouse is not given in my size. The sleeves with the special cuffs are done.

The instructions are not very clear on how to make these. Berry (who I met in Paris), was so kind to translate them for me (thanks again!), but it still was not completely clear. I sewed a loop on elastic and that’s how the gathering and the closing of the two buttons are done. The instructions called for elastic for the upper two casings, that much was clear and the lower casing has a cord of fabric. In the pattern there’s only one button, these two seemed more logical to me.

Sewing queue

2009-11-12T21:59:00.001+01:00

Once again I’m planning things to make. Most of these projects are simple and should not take more than a couple of hours each. Muslin time (for the pants) not included.

First, ready to cut is this Simplicity wrap top. Valerie (a sewing friend I met through the lingerie sew along) gave this pattern to me. She has made several already and it should be easy to make. It will be the red fabric in the picture and will be combined with the rtw skirt on the left. The flash made the fabric lighten up a bit, in reality it’s the same color as the darker red in the skirt.

Further I absolutely need a couple of pants. I’ve been postponing this as I want to try to make a basic pattern without wrinkles. Will be a couple of muslins for sure. The black and grey pinstripe will be pants, though the pattern is not sure, just took a picture to indicate ‘pants’.

The second fabric from the left has a few wrinkles in the fabric, and will be the Patrones blouse I showed earlier. The purple in the center will be a New Look cardigan. I made it a few weeks ago in the same fabric in grey and that one will probably be worn out at the end of the winter. It’s soooo comfortable that I take it out of the closet very often. And the last one is a knit for which I have not decided on a pattern yet. Something basic probably.

And something new in the sidebar: a slideshow with inspiration pictures I collected.

Weekend in Paris

2009-11-10T13:16:00.001+01:00

Past week/weekend was the European Pattern Review meeting. I went and had a wonderful time. Due to a strike with the trains in Belgium I had to make it one day shorter than planned. I had a ticket for Thursday, but there were no trains that day from the Netherlands to Paris. I changed my ticket to Friday and was there from Friday afternoon till Sunday afternoon.

It was such fun to meet Annika, Tini, Val (from Australia!), Vibeke, Nowak, Claire, Lista, Karin, Lara, Berry, Katharine, Sheila and her friend. Talking about sewing, patterns, fabric shopping, visiting the Vionnet exhibition en a bit of sight seeing. It was a great weekend.

I’ve posted pictures in the general picture album created by Annika, more pictures of participants will hopefully soon be added.

Two pictures from a tailor window and a small box with a sewing room pictured:

And of course I couldn't resist some fabric shopping. First this gorgeous wool for a coat.

A grey pinstriped wool for a pair of pants. Nothing spectacular but very soft.

Two sheer silks. I call them my "difficult fabrics" as I've never before worked with fabrics like this.

The silk is so soft and thin, that the whole 3 meters can be pulled through my wedding ring (don’t remember who talked about that to me, but it can be done easily)

They are all future projects, nothing short term.

Coat finished: Vogue 8465

2009-11-01T16:08:00.001+01:00

The pictures, as promised.

Unevenly spaced!! But I’ll leave it like it is. I’m very sure I followed the marks on the pattern. Don’t know what went wrong.

The lining is prickstitched to the upper layer. The lining tended to turn to the outside as the fabric has no weight to keep the wool turned.

(hope the pictures are clear, I can make a ‘negative’ like Katherine H suggested, but don’t find it makes it much clearer to see the details. Making the pictures lighter does help too, but on my screen I can see the details in these pictures.)

Finishing this coat in less than a week makes me wonder why I never made it last year. I know I was wondering too much about whether this was the right pattern, and the fabric I had chosen was not quite right for a coat without adding an extra layer for warmth, which made me reluctant sewing it. This fabric was quite right for it. A real coat quality wool, very warm. Juliet asked me to describe the fabric, but all I can say is that it is very dark grey, no clear grain of weft threads. It was a pleasure to work with. Gwensews: I certainly think that it can be made in felted wool. I think my fabris is not felted, but it looks a bit like it.

After working with this pattern which is labeled “easy” I think they made it easy by leaving out a lot of inside finishing. I did use more interfacing than the pattern describes, and think it is necessary to get a good result.

I really like the coat, and think I will wear it a lot. First this week to Paris! I’m going to the European Pattern Review weekend and am looking forward to seeing Paris and meeting likeminded ladies that I know from Pattern Review in real life. I hope to bring back some nice fabric, I’ve never been fabric shopping in Paris.

The review for the BWOF jacket is on PR. If you want to browse the pictures for this one you’ll find them here.

Have a nice week all. I’ll be back after Paris! No sewing this week.

How I used hair canvas in my coat

2009-10-31T00:20:00.001+01:00

It’s Friday evening almost 12.00 pm and the coat is finished and I’m quite happy with the result. Pictures later in the weekend during daylight and after some cleaning of my sewing room and some more general household chores that I didn’t do this week, as I used most of the time that I had apart from work for this coat. Now I’m waiting for DD to come home, just the time to write a post on how I used the hair canvas.

This technique is described in Kenneth King’s book Cool couture. A wonderful book that I have written about before. I greatly admire his clear style of writing and inspirational ideas.

Hair canvas is very stiff fabric and is used in classic tailoring (men’s jackets mostly I think). Because of the weight of the collar I thought it a good idea to interface the front of the coat with hair canvas, but this should not be in the seam allowances. I used this technique before in my weekender bag, and now for the first time in a garment. The hair canvas must have been in my collection for I think 20 years!

Cut the pattern pieces from the hair canvas and a cheap, thin fabric, including the seam allowances.

Pin the layers together and mark at the width of the seam allowance (this is different from what Kenneth King describes, he sews directly using the ruler on the sewing machine plate.)

Now sew with a serpentine stitch (or triple zigzag) 2 to 3 mm within the marked line.

Cut away the seam allowance plus 2 to 3 mm of the hair canvas. The extra gives some space for turn of cloth.

On the other side, cut away the inside part of the cheap fabric. The only part that remains of that fabric is the seam allowance.

Pin the hair canvas to the garment fabric, with the side where you see only the seam allowance on top.
Baste the layers in the seam allowance. I did this by machine, mr. King does this by hand with a silk thread (there is a difference in couture sewing ;)

The outside where you see my red basting thread.

After sewing the dart, I catch-stitched it on the inside to the hair canvas.
Now you can sew the pattern piece as instructed in the pattern. No significant bulk added to the seam allowances.

Working on a coat

2009-10-28T17:42:00.004+01:00

Does this happen to you? You have a pattern, a fabric, an idea and at once you leave all other projects and start on something else. This is what happened Monday evening to me. I was thinking about sewing a coat, the pattern that I have now for about two years (originally sent to me by Cidell in exchange for Knip mode). Then I remembered the very dark grey fabric I bought for a coat and there I was tracing the pattern, cutting, preparing etc. Forgetting the buttonholes of the jacket and the pants I was about to finish. I’m sure they will be done soon, but now I’m obsessed with this coat.

ETA the pattern: Vogue 8465

I took a big risk and did not make a muslin. Fit in the shoulder area is not the main issue here, and well, I wanted to go ahead. The fabric is a very good quality wool, but bought very cheap because the shop was closing down. Muslin fabric wouldn’t reflect the drape of this fabric so I took my chances: started with size 16 and tapered for extra width to 18 at hip level. I based this on the finished measurements on the pattern.

It’s a whole lot of collar, and because it’s not too close to the face I thought I could wear this well enough. Large collars directly to my neck and face are no good on me.

After two (long) evenings this is the result so far:

After sewing the upper front parts and back together I tried it on and took out a bit at center back, only at the neckline, as it was standing away a bit too much. There is too much space in the back now, but I’m only wearing a t-shirt underneath and the skirt part still has to be added.

The instructions tell you to interface the front parts of the body, but I thought that wouldn’t be enough to keep the weight of the collar. So I interfaced the back too, and for the front I used hair canvas. For attaching that without adding bulk to the side seams I used a technique described by Kenneth King in his book Cool Couture. I’ll write more on that in another post.

I agree with Lindsay, sewing a coat is not as difficult as you might think, though this is not a very difficult pattern (but labelling it as Easy seems not right to me, you have to pay very close attention to the cutting layout, as the parts are not symmetrical and some parts have to be cut with the right side down for the lining)

A warm bath

2009-10-26T14:26:00.001+01:00

That’s how I felt about reading your comments on my returning to blogging. I really missed you all, and am happy to be back with you. Stopping blogging was not the right decision, and though it bothered me a bit that it would be silly to resume it after declaring so clearly that I would stop, your comments made me feel so welcome again. THANK YOU!

What am I making? A BWOF jacket from the February 2008 issue, number 105. It’s almost finished, I have to find buttons, so the buttonholes are not done yet. But that’s all (and a good pressing).

It took me forever to cut this jacket, as the fabric is printed only on the right side. The wrong side is solid black, and of course I wanted to match the print as much as possible. And then when I tried the jacket on for the first time, the placement of the motif at bust height is not so lucky ;) I’ll buy a plain scarf in a matching color to wear with it.

I didn’t make a muslin, as the basic draft was absolutely the same as this jacket I made before, and I did the fba on this one exactly the same.

Further I’m working on a the last UFO I had: a pair of grey pants (boringly basic, but I need a few boring basic pair of pants).

After that I hope to make a coat. Saying this not too loud, because I said before I would sew a coat (remember the sew along?) and never got to this.

A little note

2009-10-25T11:43:00.001+01:00

After a very stressful year cumulating in a weekend in September I decided to stop blogging, and made the announcement to do so. I was overwhelmed and very, very touched by all comments on the fact that I was leaving blogosphere. Simply never knew that so many of you enjoyed reading my blog. Thank you for that.

What I didn’t realize at the time, was how much I would be missing blogging. Not the actual writing a post, but the talking about sewing. As I’ve written more than once, there is no one sewing in my circle of family or friends. So who to share the joy or frustration on sewing projects with? Who to tell about the beautiful patterns I found in a Patrones issue, new fabrics acquiered, plans I’m making etcetera.

I thought the missing feeling would pass, but no. There is an itch to go back to talking on sewing on my blog to share the experiences. Won’t bother you again with stopping or stress messages. I’ll be posting again, regularly if I have time and feel like it, not so often if I’m not in the mood or not sewing.

To start with a very inspiring blouse from Patrones 284. It’s a plus size pattern so I’ll have to find another pattern to work with (really don’t think the model is plus size though). It’s not my next project, but I love it.

Stopping

2009-09-13T10:35:00.003+02:00

I've made the difficult decision to stop blogging. After more than 2 years it's enough and I'm going to spend less time at my computer for sewing related subjects and will be sewing without publishing about it on my blog. All in all it's taking up quite a bit of time, I'm going to spend that time otherwise.

I intend to keep writing reviews at Pattern Review. In blogland I'll be lurking, and not actively comment, at least for now.

The Chanel-style jacket will be posted in the sew-along, which I find very inspiring.

Thank you all for reading my blog, and I want to thank especially those of you who made (regular) comments. As most bloggers I loved to read the comments, you made me really feel part of the sewing community.

Happy sewing to all of you,
Sigrid

ETA: thank you so much for all your kind comments on this post. I'm very touched to read them.

I have no intention to close the sewing tutorials blog and will try to keep it (more or less) up to date. My blogs and the information that is in it will remain accessible.

Chanel style jacket - some progress

2009-09-09T19:45:00.001+02:00

Not much to show, but as I want to keep track of what I'm doing for myself yet another jacket post.

I tried the quilting with the lining but my fabric is not thick enough for that. Using a brown/grey thread didn't show the thread really, but it showed unevenness, though I used a walking foot for stitching. I tried a few rows on the upper sleeve, but took it all out again.

Time for another approach. The fabric could use some interfacing now it wouldn't be quilted. What to use? I had two options in my supplies and after testing on a scrap of fabric I used Pro-sheer elegance from SewExciting. Like Pam says on her website, it barely effects the drape of the fabric, yet it gives a bit of support. For me this was the first time that I used this interfacing, and want more, it's very good.

All vertical seams are now done, The shoulder seams I only basted. Mostly I'll use the construction technique that was described in Threads magazine no. 128, with a little variation.

I checked the fit and it's good, considering that the sleeves are not set in yet and the seams are only lighty pressed.

On the pictures you can see that I thread traced the pieces with a double tracing thread (I did cut my fabric in a double layer). I fused the interfacing between those lines and take out the threads before stitching (had I known before that I would interface the pieces, I would have worked different).

Next step is trimming the very wide seam allowances and catch stitch them. I did that on a jacket I've sewn last year, and found that it made sure the seams didn't show.

A few reactions to the comments on the trim: Ruta: thanks for mentioning the store in Utrecht, I will certainly go there (though won't make it in time for this jacket). Katherine H, thanks for pointing to the alternatives for trim, your jacket is wonderful, very special with the trim. And KayB: I'm not offended by your comment, I do like the honest opinion. I'm doing the crocheting now with longer treads (bought extra fabric) and in the final version there will be no threads hanging out of the trim.

Trim

2009-09-07T21:26:00.001+02:00

This weekend I cut my jacket from the good fabric. I still need to thread-trace all pieces.

Having the little bits and pieces as remnants of the fabric gave me the opportunity to experiment with the yarn to make trims. From the start I wanted to try to make my own trim. First because buying trims is difficult here (no specialized stores that I know of, and choice of trims very, very limited) and second because I like to have a more casual trim, as this suits my lifestyle better. No need for very formal clothing.

I've made several small experiments, all with the weft threads of the fabric. Most of them were no success. I'll show you the one I'm contemplating using.

Below picture shows the warp threads clearly, which are black and grey. I've taken out the weft threads to make the trim.

The pictures don't do the colors justice.

The black thread is made from a knot of special yarn, of which I crotcheted a strand with two threads, I used black because I want to emphasize that color a bit in the fabric, over the brown that is also in it. The other two are crotcheted with the weft threads of the fabric.

The result of three strands of threads in a braid. As I have relatively short ends of threads, there are a lot of thread ends. I'm not quite sure about this trim, it is a lot of work, and I think I will have to buy a little extra fabric if I want to do this for the whole jacket. I'll let it lay around for a day or two to make up my mind.

Machine tension

2009-09-05T11:44:00.001+02:00

Browsing on the net this week I found this article on machine tension on the Threads website with something completely new to me:

"Be sure your presser foot is down when you make the tension adjustment."

This is an eyeopener to me. I tried it and it really seems to work better than with the presser foot up. I never thought of this making a difference and sure have never heard about this. Did you know?

For more information on the subject see the original article.

Adapted muslin

2009-09-04T20:37:00.001+02:00

Laura, thank you very much for your timely comment. I saw it just before I went to my sewing room to cut a new muslin! I had traced the size 12, tapering down to 14 and did the fba when I read your comment and thought "I will try that first". A little later this is the result.

I was happy with all comments of course, and the general opinion was (like I thought too) that I could have started with size 12 in the shoulder/neck part. Again, only the right side of the jacket is changed.

I'm wearing a thin lambswool top underneath, and think I won't wear anything with more thickness under this jacket. It feels a bit snug, but like Lindsay T said, this is meant to be a snug fitted jacket. Am I ready to cut in the real fabric?

On the right is the new adapted version. For comparison I have put the pictures side by side.