Raw waters in cedar

The icy Nestucca

2009-12-09T18:35:00.000-08:00

It's a cold day here on the river Y, on the backside of those trees a few freezer waves are peeling off some choice walls.

Bigger bombs

2009-12-08T19:19:00.000-08:00

Always some new and bigger.......

This swell has teeth

2009-12-04T14:02:00.000-08:00

(pic by G.Englesby)

Many of these moments as long period swell detonated,

clear water and thumpy sandbars.

Best sessions away from the usual.

Air drops with just the rail holding a line til the feet caught up,

loads of shadow time. Just two out. Felt it later after many beat downs.

Nicks and bruises.

All good.

Surfliar

2009-11-20T08:30:00.001-08:00

The Lot.

2009-11-19T15:22:00.000-08:00

2009-11-17T22:49:00.000-08:00

Calm and storm

2009-11-16T11:27:00.000-08:00

The recent nightly closing

display.

On days like this I wonder how they hang on

Thankyoulawdandbabyjesus.......

2009-11-14T15:57:00.000-08:00

For opening the window but pulling the curtain. With the cam down and the snow falling it was a sweet reminder of yesteryear (circa 1980)....

Elbow room and clean lines.

War paint and grins.

2009-11-12T17:39:00.000-08:00

Whupped after a long battle. I had to dot the occasion with a little blood. :-)

Second fish just a little later.

Right on top of the second came the third.

Beautiful colors.

The fruit of dawn patrols

2009-11-05T07:55:00.000-08:00

There you go Dub, order is restored.

Enjoy the 100mph winds outta the south too.

:-)

With style

2009-11-03T18:21:00.000-08:00

Ridiculous level of talent, brass ones and style.

JO'B is more than a one trick pony.

Nias 2

2009-11-02T07:53:00.000-08:00

Awesome power, don't look into the eye!!!!!!

Nias 2009

2009-10-31T10:49:00.000-07:00

Via the Kiwi..... biggest swell in years, stars flew in and tore the bag out.... 30 broken boards in one day.

Lift-off festival.

2009-10-25T11:32:00.000-07:00

(pic lifted w/o permission from Richie Rich....)

Ridiculously high level of talent stopped by yesterday morning and made what was a gutless wave a full on punt ramp. Kalani Robb, Ted Navarro, Dylan Graves and another ripper pulled into town and showed what can be done. And they were fun to surf with to boot. Now all we have to do is keep it up, alas by this morning it seemed the demo hadn't stuck on the collective mind. Oh well, we have something to shoot for......

MoreNoll-test

2009-10-17T13:22:00.000-07:00

Before the wind took South beach to task.......

Groomin' and groovin' time.....

2009-10-14T12:58:00.000-07:00

It's that time of the year.

South winds buffing and polishing.

Sand being moved.

In or out.... depending on littoral drift.

Literal and figurative grinding into ever finer particles.

Creating jewel or being jewel thief.

We wait for purse strings to pull back,

to see what will fall out.

Polished diamond facets or shards of broken glass.

tidewater push

2009-10-10T08:23:00.000-07:00

Crab and kelp salad

2009-10-08T08:58:00.000-07:00

Form and line.

Ripples and orb

2009-10-06T21:18:00.000-07:00

Noll-test

2009-10-05T14:51:00.000-07:00

Sunny and windy day one.

Smallish, mostly in the two to three foot range.

Except in the heats that got skunked and it was one to two feet.

pics: Surftwin

Post-wave sunset

2009-09-29T22:26:00.000-07:00

Access denied!

2009-09-24T14:20:00.000-07:00

So I found this cool way to get out in big surf.......

and it was working so well

that I did it a couple of times

then this happened........... (Sequence by Grant Myrdal.)

Water time

2009-09-23T17:11:00.000-07:00

If every fall was like this........ 6 days, 12 sessions, waist high to 2x, 4 boards. 24 hours in thinner rubber, saw a couple nutters trunking it. It's been warmer before but not for as long as this stretch.......

Romantic Kong

2009-09-21T21:43:00.000-07:00

Probably wondering where Fay Wray is right now..........

3/2 no boots

2009-09-15T18:02:00.000-07:00

(pic by GE)

It's positively tropical out there!