ASANABLOG

Awake in the Mountains

2009-07-03T16:13:00.000-07:00

By Asana Athlete Ryan Held

I awoke with such ease after the night we endured, and removing the condensation from my truck shells window I was delighted to not see rain flurry and lightening. In an effort to avoid the increasing temperatures in Joe’s Valley we left the day prior under a brilliant clear sky and headed straight for the mountains. Our approach to the mountains was quite uneventful as the weather was hot and stale and all of the dirt back-roads here in Utah seemed to be repaired and graded more than anywhere I have ever visited. However, as we summited we were greeted by the most torrential rainstorm I have ever experienced making us lose our way multiple times within a few miles of our destination. But now, as I stare out the windows at an incredibly different landscape from whence we had come; we were safe and I was comforted that we would have a week of solace in the trees.

Before bright light adorns the landscape there is a blue hue to all that was consumed by the prior evening’s darkness, a veil that is only lifted by the rising of the sun. Though this moment is brief it is of great importance to me as this rare shade of blue exhibits the calm energy of a forest about to wake, and though I don’t get to see it often, it is my favorite time of day.

At 10,000 feet the sun takes its time to rise and the bordering forest of huge conifers allow the first rays of light to penetrate only small patches of forest leaving most in the blue-hued darkness of early morning. And in this rare observation of nature one cannot help but draw parallel to walking along a very old, dimly lit hallway of some small European gallery and seeing Rembrandts work for the first time; which brings such contrast of light in the objective foreground while darkness dominates the backdrop.

The view allowed revelry in the sheer artistic brilliance of the mountains, which in my opinion is beyond comparison.

The passing clouds of mid-day brought definition of the highest caliber in a conjunction of shade and light in which shadows danced unrestricted on the forest floor. High winds blew with such persistence over the cloudscape that if one stared upon a desired location for more than a few moments would feel transfixed as if in a slighted hallucination from the condensed water vapors ever-changing distortion of shadow and anti-shadow on the forest floor.

Wearily I rested, feeling the nagging persistence of an unmoved body, which up until this point was out of bed by 7am and did not care to return until well after nightfall. My coveted interest, to surmount any challenge to its utmost physical degree, had been squandered by a deep nagging feeling in the left wrist and an overwhelming sense of exhaustion throughout. In an uncollected haze I slept and woke, and in this loose state I spent most of our first day in high-elevation as if in a lucid dream.

It is so unusual for me to rest as thus and by the late afternoon I couldn’t help but think that I was doing something that was “inefficient” and therefore wrong. This is the constant struggle I encounter on rest days and days of bad weather. I argue with myself that weakness is the only byproduct of the sedentary and force myself out of my cocoon and venture to the boulders, that as of yet I had not seen, but know are just on the other side of the surrounding conifers.

The stone here is very dissimilar to that of Joe’s Valley. In Joe’s the sandstone boulders are usually formed in a somewhat oblong or rectangular prism shape with very high contrast of color in their elegant yet stark streaks of black oxidized Iron, white, blue and orange calcite, brown and tan sandstone. The grips are of a resolute structure in their uniform edges, small acute pockets, rain-carved tufas and slashes of all directions and lengths. Because of the great expanse of Joe’s Valley boulders and of their building bloc (and sometimes building size) shape,

it is a world class destination leaving canyons such as this far off the beaten path for the modern boulder and are therefore pristine and secluded.

The architecture of the large granite stones here are more subtle in their features, which are mostly slopers, large edges and slopey jugs.

Their contour lines are of freshly unearthed gemstones still exhibiting their rigid non-symmetrical earthly purity before being altered by human hands, having been sculpted by millennia of strong weather: deep snow, crushing rainfall, high winds and penetrating sunshine. The boulders ability to change color between shade, cloud and intensity of sunlight leads one to wonder whether their base layer is ultimately orange or pink, as covering almost every square inch of them is a green lichen, and a shade of green unseen by mine eyes until the observation of the metamorphosing cicada of June in Joe’s Valley.

These massive gems that sit rightly amongst a field of almost endless blue and grey talus defined their starkness even further. And as I explored further up the first gulley I saw the expanse of the massive cliff band from which these boulders were born.

Alone I gazed and thanked Mother Nature for her captivating architecture in not leaving a single detail of beauty unsung, and in one crisp exhale I let my indignation and trepidation which hung for a moment in the oncoming nights cool air but quickly dissolved into the late afternoon breeze. At once I was contented and felt the need to have a taste of the stone.

Within the Call of the Wild

2009-07-03T06:58:00.000-07:00

By Asana Athlete Ryan Held

The air was thick with Juniper as we ascended the trail opposite the mine. Upon noticing this domination of fragrance a thought flashed through my mind, “it is already done.” This moment of clarity assured me that I had prepared rightly for the send and I made a pact with myself and audibly with Kelsey as we continued up the well worn path furthering ourselves from the now deserted coal excavation project in the right fork of Joe’s Valley. I felt the great strength of those vows, as infrequently they come, but always rich in vigor and boosting confidence. We knew not the name of this problem nor it’s grade and therefore felt more intrigued by the shear size of the bloc, the contour of it’s varied shapes and it’s delicate line of holds.

The thick resinous scent of the junipers was quickly replaced by the sweet smell of various sages as we approached the boulders and the sky grew dark. The acuteness of odor made our travel light and swift and as our faithful four-legged companion bounded effortlessly through the fresh field of foxtails, I knew the struggle was over before I put hand to stone. Standing under the overhang the rain-laden darkness had penetrated the entirety of the sky and made me even more hungry to crush every hold and finish the problem first try of the day.

In the rarity of such moments I like to remember Churchill; for he has portrayed the emotion I experienced flawlessly: "I felt as if I were walking with destiny, and that all my past life had been but a preparation for this hour and this trial.”

Baited in the silence offered only to confident warriors I began my ritual, for now I was in my church, the church of stone: Arrange the pads, approach shoes off allowing my feet to cool to the proper fit of my Projects, the sound as I crush the minute particles of White Dirt deep into my hardened pads, eyes closed, the swing of my arms testing the thickness of moisture in the surrounding air and pushing the blood-energy toward the necessary extremities, deep uji breath to bring the heart rate down, relax the mind, and quell the adrenaline in my system.

“It is already done” flowed so effortlessly through me that I could not decipher whether I had just thought of it or if it had always been there, and all my skill and strength was pushed into the proper channels ready for use.

In my next realization, and with still relaxed breathing, I was standing on top and again it echoed, “It is already done.”

Before I became conscious of it, like a man possessed, I had made the first move to the small incut,

high-stepped left to the edge under my hand, matched and floated effortlessly to the jug with so much power that I could hardly believe I had subjectively done the work required. When it was finished, I could not recall how I made these effortless movements… it was as if I was being moved, as a queen on a chessboard with no hindrance in direction. I was but an object, and whether I was moved by the mover, attractor, skill, or fate: the all-encompassing feeling of unadulterated movement was my Presence and I knew instantly why I climb: mind, body, soul and nature become one, and I am finally free.

“There is an ecstasy that marks the summit of life, and beyond which life cannot rise. And such is the paradox of living, this ecstasy comes when one is most alive, and it comes as a complete forgetfulness that one is alive.” -Jack London, The Call of the Wild

Take me down to Mexico, Rosarito, Baha California

2009-05-05T08:33:00.001-07:00

--From the Scotty Glasburg Travels

After St.George had brang what it brought.
I was asked to take a vacation.
I wondered where the trip was going to take me, until the words escaped my friends mouth there was no debating.
The words he spoke I seemed to be relating.
So a trip to baja is what was instated.
A friend of theres whom I’d heard much about
Packed up what he needed and took his plane down south.
When he was down there they saw mountains of asure.
Like the cows of mexico the I-1 was our pasture.
We reached the mountains after 24 of drivin’.
To huge cliffs along the gulf’s water we were arrivin’.
We hiked up to the cliff, along the side of life,
Converstion ruled the nation,much of to my delight.
With the gulf was to my left and a huge cliff to my right.
The touch of the wall was didn’t match it’s height,
Throw up a couple top ropes when the sky dawns light.
But a weird occurance happened that night .
About 3 a.m. I woke up with fright, a skunk had beared down it’s hair down, biting my friend with it’s might.
We all woke up except Chris in his van, as Sean bashed the mother f’er right off his hand.
Sean sat with no words, as the skunk came back, Kevin Worall gota rock and got on the attack. He picked up a rock and boy did he shock, the thing on the head, it just lied dead so we wrapped it up.
The thing was rabid, and my friend had been bit, so Kevin Worall, Dave from La Jolla and Sean had to dip.
To La Paz they went so Sean could fly out. That’s when C.L. and I took another route.
Along the free way we drove, sippin’ brew and burrito’s. bumpin’ music for amusement, to where the water would glow.
So at about 3 we reached Canajo, a surf spot, where the coast got the best swell it could know.
The lefts were bangin’, metered lefts were arrrangin’, take it all the way in, paddle out for the next set that came in.
The a.m. was weird, Kevin and Dave disappeared, the hangers and times had bounced for the worst that we feared.
But around the corner in the night they had slept,in an enclosed bunker on the out on our left.
3 days had passed a hell lot of driving, as rock climbers were we’re strivn’ for an excellent cliff, where routes we would uplift, offered in future they’d appear as a gift.
To Sierra De San Francisco,we would go, Kevin recommended he’d been there ten years before.
We got to the top, to reach a small community, of western value, was devalued, where life seemed exist in some sanity. We hiked down to the canyon, under afternoon light, we saw features for potential new routes to be administerd for delight. In the morning light we hiked and did the same, to put a route up and boot up and give it a name.
But the routes we found weren’t all that we sought, and decided not to use all the bolts that we bought.
So after that night, we settled in the tent, pouring tequila shoulda’ seen what our words would invent.
The community existed of Cheeba Hearders, who hiked down, right down into the canyon we rappelled. We gave the kids magazines, actually help us to help them all this rock in our dreams, could end in a place where theres means. The next morning we hiked to a small close cliff, so much searching and hiking it appeared as a gift.
Two Anchors we drilled, as we cleaned the routes, we would teach the community how to put these to use. We donated ropes, my harness is now in Baja, over the waist of my Mexican bruddah’
We didn’t find the next best area, we didn’t find or climb the next coolest routes, but all that searching and hiking we found something more, how climbing can reach out all over the world. To touch, a new , to learn , to see, maybe climbing is a medium to set the world free. I know what I found was something so good, to come back to Sierra De San Fran I knew that I would. Bringing bolts and more hangers, I’d do all I could. What we found, were good drives and amazing things, who knows what adventure traveling, and climbing can bring.

The Visitor XL

2009-04-15T08:43:00.000-07:00

Check out our new climbing hold, The Visitor at www.asanaclimbing.com/climbingHolds.htm

Thoughts Aboiut Climbing

2009-01-12T15:44:00.001-08:00

Asana Fun-Thoughts about Climbing that are Bridging Social Barriers

by: Scotty Glasberg

These days, rock climbing is growing and starting to attract a more and more diverse group of people. From the vast expanses of India to the islands of Hawaii people are all chalking up to climb. Younger people are cranking stronger than ever, and newbies are getting introduced to the sport everyday. What makes climbing fun for a population with such diversity? I stopped writing about my travels to document an interesting concept that fuels the direction of the future.
I went around Hueco Tanks asking this question: “What makes climbing fun for you??? “The first thing that comes to mind. “
Here’s what I found:

I don’t know…I don’t think about it. Climbing with my friends, traveling all over the world, meeting people..I’m able to sustain a lifestyle in which I can work minimally.
-Dan Brayack (Climbing Photographer)

“To succeed at something…to succeed at something that I though I couldn’t do. “
-Moti (Israel)

“Being able to focus on something, and turning everything else off.”
–Stephanie Antezana

“The best natural rush you can get from any physical activity.”
–Scott Fitzgerald (asana athlete)

“It frees your mind from a lot of stressful situations and allows me to be free out in nature. “
–Kasper Derkinderen (Belgium)

“Environment. “
“ Environment?” I said…
“Yep. “
–Dave Grimes

“Mental Challenge .”
-Michael Hudson

“The challenge it gives you. The rock is a static inanimate object it doesn’t care about you, it doesn’t care if you have money, if your good looking or not, if your black, white, Japanese, it’s just there to challenge you. “
–Charles Kelly (Hueco Rock Ranch Headman)

“In the tanks I am psyched on meeting people that are just as passionate about climbing as I am.”
-Randy Hill

“I think there is many reasons. For example, traveling meeting nice new people, there are different places to explore and the medium of climbing gets me out of society’s constraints. “
–Ruben Mariscal (Basque Region, Spain)

“Climbing is sort of like a vehicle. It allows me to travel to new areas, and meet new people as well. Climbing is also inspiration for photography.
–Carlos Mason
(Climber Videographer/Photographer, albertmason.com)

No matter how you look at it, sideways, straight forward or upside down with double toe hooks; the ideas about what makes climbing…well, climbing; bridges barriers that have divided folks for years. I think that Charles may have said it best:
“The challenge it gives you. The rock is a static inanimate object it doesn’t care about you, it doesn’t care if you have money, if your good looking or not, if your black, white, Japanese, it’s just there to challenge you. “
–Charles Kelly (Hueco Rock Ranch Headman)
The rock has no perception; maybe this is why we all perceive it with such unanimity. Climbing is like a timeless classic, the movie can’t perceive the viewer, and the viewer must perceive the film. A timeless classic unites the thoughts of people without regard to race, ethnicity, social status or religion. Alike, the joy of simply scaling a rock stimulates thoughts that bridge the gaps that divide us socially, while uniting a community universally.

I hope you enjoyed the findings as much as I did. Remember, climbing is all about having fun.

Happy New Year!!

2009-01-05T13:28:00.001-08:00

The Asana Crew got out yesterday to do some climbing at Swan Falls on a semi-blustery, but beautifully blue-skied Idaho afternoon. Thanks so much to Mike McClure, Matt Fultz and the rest of the Swan establishing crew for the Black Flake and for Death Proof: Amazing problems! Anyone dropping into that area should get some beta and give these problems a throw.
Sus also put up a great problem just next to the ApeMan boulder. Really cool problem with a powerful off-the-ground move to some highly textured knobs. The following moves include amazing slopers and some serious high-stepping to small crimps. After a great 3-person send train, we think it goes at like V6. He called the gropey line "Static Bling".
Conrad and Sus were both on fire getting the direct send of Black Flake (V6ish). Conrad also did the sit, which looks like a definite use of power.
Finally, Conrad wrapped up the day with a dramatic sun-setting send of Death Proof (V10). Those slopers are so steep that it seems almost impossible that anyone could stick. Thank goodness for chilly friction.

Becoming One with the Road

2008-12-03T13:51:00.000-08:00

November came fast and the date means moving. The first or the second I embark eastward to a more subtle climate. My headdress is growing tattered torn, for the sun shines brightly, dry and cold on my face. War paint glowed with ferocity while crouching in the woods peering at what was to be my next meal. The fierce animal looked back at me with fury in his eyes. At once we pounced from our hidden wombs in the forest. The light is dim but the sky illuminates our bodies pink, orange, and purple. Lashing out at the wild beast that yearns for my flesh as much as I do his… we stop. Like a dog trying to get a clue, the animal stands in tripod fashion peering over his left shoulder, motionless, waiting for my next move.
With eyes drenched in war paint, they appear droopy with the wear of sunlight as my warrior posture becomes extinct. Yearning for peace, mid-stride, with crooked knife raised, I sit down almost instantly, surprising the now statuesque creature.
I reasoned with the creature, dropped my head to my chest in a tired slump, as the steam rose from my mouth, warming my torso.
The animal lowered it’s paw and walked cautiously over the rich soil that we both found common. His head sagged low as20his eyes peered up, watching for any sudden movement from me.
“There is no more need for me to be fierce.” I said in a voice that described my manner. “My family is not of smiles, the fire is not warm and there is for there is no food for our children’s strength. To fight any longer would be a waste, we must move on. I choose to sit. Either you can take my life beast, or I will walk away.”
The beast looked puzzled. His pupils, black and full of color. He had never seen such wear, such desolation. A man that gives up on his family gives up on himself.
How could I give up? I questioned my statements. The cold was here, though surely on the journey east, without a proper home, without a slay, my children would not survive. I hopped up to my feet with last spurt of energy I had.
I chalked my hands up and looked at the route. Surely I couldn’t leave without doing the thing, I had to stay. It was my obligation to do this route I was only one move short. Surrender would let ‘myself down on the road east. This last attempt had to be flawless, either way I was taking down my draws. The temperatures were great for climbing, but a little hard to bare, I felt sometimes like giving up.
Squatted in front of the beast I reached behind my back and sharpened the blade with the crisp cool air. The sharpness of my knife, produced a reflection. I saw not only a knife, but a mirror image, a mirror into myself. My potential was cosmic and endless (just like yours); the only thing that could limit this was surrender. I had not wallowed this long in the woods without recognizing my life’s mandala. I could never stop learning about myself, and my how I existed with my surroundings. I awoke from my thoughts and peered up slowly with renewed eyes.
The animal now stood like a kitchen table. His mouth, was of elephant tusk borders dripping Saliva that spilled like syrup to the ground. I thrusted the blade eastward into the air pointed in the direction of my target.
At that moment: Rage, love, loss, energy, lack of , space, sky, dirt, tears, blood, stress, jealousy, sadness, beauty, happiness, joy, and excitement, and drew the beast and I together like attracting magnets with the strength of vision from a closed eye. My feet seemed to move like your favorite cartoon on psychedelics. Trailing in the evening light we pounced together in the clearing.
I sat with exhaust and amazement looking back at what I had just climbed. Sitting at the rest for about a minute, I took deep breaths in and out of my chest, I regained my strength to finish what I had started.
I clasped the beast on his spine and felt his body go limp. Turning him from my lap to the ground. His head fell to the left, it was then I realized I had done what I needed to carry on. I carried the beast over my shoulder to my children as I knelt to receive hugs and kisses from the one’s who had admiration.
I had woke up in m car one week prior. I had awakened from a dream that I was hanging with joy from the last jug.
Climbing and life go hand in hand. Listening to your self can be hard sometimes, but determination will surmount. To conquer your goals takes determination. Secondly, you must know you can complete the goal you are trying to grasp. I once read that “a mind without distractions is a tall order”0 It’s the mind’s job to try and sway you from your goal. When you think your farthest away from them, your actually closer than you ever were. It’s in the hardest times we must keep our clarity, and the easier when we must focus to remember what is clear . Stay close to your heart. Remember, life is a journey with all goals in reach, to loose focus is all that can render one from obtainment. You’ll know when distraction hits, you should feel it in your gut.

scotty photo

2008-12-02T12:41:00.000-08:00

Cool Photo from Scotty's Road Trip

Ghettobilly Productions

2008-11-24T09:01:00.000-08:00

Check out this new climbing films production site from Scotty Fitzgerald
http://www.ghettohillbillyproductions.com/GHP%20Home.html

On the Road, Install#3

2008-10-22T10:46:00.000-07:00

Words can only try and describe the blissful nature of being on the road. Listening to the river flow by, looking up at a dark sky mist with clouds, peering through the trees admiring a campfire someone has built. The morning time is so new as I open my car door to feel the moist air wisp my face, changing into my other pants, the sun peering over the horizon highlighting the frozen grass.
I’ve been taking jogs after climbing, finding few partners on occasion. But, this night I looked up at the sky alone, with the stars peering down at me, and felt like, I don’t know, somewhat like my smile could stretch beyond the stars I looked at. Like if I stayed like this forever time would never end. If I only knew what my decisions to stay longer in Rifle would bring, I don’t think the small could have got smaller. I felt dharma had been served and I was perfectly still where I was. There was already a future to my past.
I am so at peace out here. There is no more going to San Francisco, well; at least I don’t think so. I am much more happy sitting out here on my lonesome, saving what ever cash I have, studying, reading, writing, and traveling onto the next area. You meet so many nice people around here. Like Dave from Texas, Nice guy, about 5’10” big old handle bar mustache and a dog named Austin that walked with a limp. He let me hang out in his camper on cold nights. While he read long books he had finished before I was born I sat and studied my Nutrition chapter.
“So where ya’ goin’ next Dave?” We did small talk like this.
“Well, I reckon Moab, wife’s expectin’ me home by the end of the month, and I got some friends out in Moab; guy basically made a career of climbin’ n’ invited me down there.”
“Cool” I thought in my head. What an adventure. Plus, living in Moab, having your main occupation showing people around Ancient Red Sandstone palaces! That’s what I want to do, not spend my money to go see some shit in San Francisco for four hundred dollars. I found out the other day I have my whole life to do what I haven’t done already. I’d rather be dead broke with no gas in Moab in the winter, because I haven’t really done that yet. It’s like every bad thing has a positive reaction. This is the Zen thing: So I get stranded in Moab in the winter, gas is out, but then someone helps me. That help is much more valuable than the gas I lost. All is compensated by something eternally great! This intrigues me though, doing all I haven’t done. Like meeting new girls, hiking in Marin County, accumulating book after bookshelf in my neat room like Japhy. Going to Tibet and hanging out in the snow, or trudging through Yosemite Valley and cooking in the backcountry. Or working for the national park as a search and rescue guy, or studying with some Organic Farmer in India, who works sparingly and spends the rest of the day learning and talking. Going to Europe, donating my time to under privileged youth, and seeing their big smiles, going to big cities and getting culture shock. Living on the east coast and being close to family and smelling new flowers. It’s sort of like I am seeing the world with new eyes, or being born again. Anyways, I’ll probably be hanging out with Dave in Heuco sometime during the winter. But the people sure are great.
One-day Dave's dog puked up some stuff with these fat worms in it. I felt so bad for the young dog, but we both chuckled and got the poor little guy some wormy medication. Good thing Dave’s on his trek back to Texas.
“Austin, your goin’ on home where you and ma’ will get some good R and R”. The dog walked around with his little limp and was happy.
“Hey Dave, let’s cook some pancakes tomorrow morning” I got this awesome whole wheat batter and a ton of fruit I gotta finish before it goes too bad, plus I have fresh nuts and berries.” I questioned.
“Sounds good” Dave replied.
I’ve met so many other cool people: Bolters, Climbers, Rednecks, Child Molesters, Spanish English Teachers, Swedish English Learners, Beer company owners, professional skiers. I’ve developed great relations with the local star bucks and the local library as well. I ought to be in the right place.
I really feel like a dharma bum. Life right now is like a fictional novel; which I am in control of. Cooking out of the back of my car, stacking my dirty clothes in my climbing rucksack, doing dishes in the river, then curling into the back of my car to study, read, write, and think. My mind went from cluttered, to a wide, vast Joshua Tree dessert scene. All I have to worry about is who I’m going to ship a postcard out to tomorrow, or where I am going to this winter to get money for spring and summer. Plus some deadlines for school here and there.

Midterms were due and I had to start focusing. A particular route is still keeping me here in Rifle. The weather no longer feels cold for a shorts wearin’ , surf goin’ San Diego boy like myself. I step out of my car and resist the feeling of chill, I would rather think of it as refreshing.
The sky’s pink exiting my car, I stretch my arms towards the overlapping semi circle of the heavens. The sun still peers from the East over the hills; its beauty beckons me to document each morning with pictures, journals, and my memory.
Mid-terms are due and I’ve been working vigorously on both climbing projects, school, and personal ones alike.
The weather in the canyon is starting to really become ripe. Folks who don’t climb would call it the inside of your local ice cream parlor’s display, climbers and outdoor enthusiasts would call it, well… perfect. You can’t call the environment cold; when you step out from your overheated bag, a better word would be: refreshing.
Each night my dreams float with the wind. While my trunk bed opens, I drift off to sleep, listening to the river and the voices of other campers lingering in discussion.
The ice usually thaws my windows from heat expenditure during sleep. Sitting up fast from my sleeping stance, I raise my arms, stretch my legs and grab my books or laptop to my left. I’ve been working hard on a midterm for MAT 125: a course that shows how to build the fundaments of a website using XHTML design. I’ll ‘plomp’ the lap top in front of me, assume prone position and await to hear the hissing sound from surrounding propane tanks. Sometimes, I’ll get out of the car, sit in my fold out chair and brew coffee before anyone opens their eyes. My work ethic is very good, making sure to work each day on my obligations. The website turned out really cool, pretty much describing my life, climbing travels and sponsors.
I’ve met more and more cool people out here in Rifle (for the month and half I’ve been here). One in particular is Spaniard: Rueben Moriscal. There’s something way cool about Ruben’s vibe. It could be why he’s here in the states: to teach Spanish children English, or it could be his attitude as we traverse between cliffs to climb our projects joking with each other how we need to go out when I get to Denver and go dancing. What ever it may be, Reuben like Dave from last month, is someone I wait to climb with each day. Ruben has invited me to Procrero Chico later this year, and even Spain over the summer. I’m sure that like Dave, I’ve developed a new friend.
Unfortunately, Ruben lives in Denver and the partners are getting scarce. There’s nothing more I would like to do than wait each weekend for partners, and send my project, but the uncertainty of finding a climbing partner I feel like 70 east is whispering my name. No matter what, I can’t lose sight that climbing is not all consumed by sending hard grades. Climbing is more about meeting awesome partners, and linking up with old friends, getting acclimated to new areas, peering wondrously at classic rock climbs, and soaking in the beauty an environment of all the beautiful lands has to offer. Rifle has taught me a lot, and I’ll never lose what I’ve learned.

From the Road..Install #2

2008-09-29T13:21:00.000-07:00

There is no more dream or ecstasy than smelling the bread of the future, being baked behind a barefoot princess. The fall wind is blowing while the landscape is new, and your work is done and talk is to be made, and maybe more so love. The kids run barefoot playing pleasantly where ever your mind pictures them playing, for they are the relaxation of a kerosene lamp that burns while you read your favorite book.
You can sit with your friends at the boulders or routes to walk around while the crisp winds blow in another season fashioned by your mind. Damo's bare head resembles no sign of age, but signs of wisdom and Buddha monks. We joke and walk and eat and climb, and poke fun, and sleep, and dream, and meditate and wake. The sun shines on the steam of Soy milk and coffee. Schatt's bakery brings good notions, where ever I am I'm sure I'll find this same pleasant company.
I can't wait to indulge in a family gathering meal or restaurant, now that my moneys is saved. Either breakfast or dinner with Pancho Joes and Senorita Misses.
The plan was to go to San Francisco, though the truth was the sun shone on me here in the mornings with such peace and tranquility it is too hard to move. The night was the same but the stars and dim fires tickled my eyes. The river is so nice to wash with in the morning and night. I didn't move, and three hundred bucks goes and does much more than just three hundred bucks.
Standing out front of Wendll's gift shop getting post cards, for Mom, Dad, Cousins, and my girlfriend , I informed Lahna I wouldn't be coming out, (Lahna's my girlfriend, well..). She then informed me that it just wasn't working out. I thought it was working out, I mean I was calling to let you know I had just almost been enlightened and that the peacefulness of the woods would just have to prolong my stay a bit. Who wouldn't want a counterpart that had been so at peace while alone? Or the type of guy who could fix up the best plate of beans and rice and vegetables and oil and nuts and raisins and apples and oranges, and flax seed and soy milk and homemade pancakes! And who reads and writes a lonely zen scripture, when lonely is not lonely just nothing that is nothing.
I'm not here to proclaim love, or not proclaim love, I am only here to inform, my words will lead you.
My dreams of love are in different sights and pastures, and ranges and mountains, and friends and food and family and new experiences delightful and pleasant so spare, to mornings of changing in chilly and bare, temps that excite you to just hug a friend, my road trip is surely now never to end.
It makes you want to surrender industrial ties and just go on rucksack revolution never dies. Bumper stickers you make, and t-shirts from Dad, who the hell could ever be sad. Come and join me. Come talk Buddha, poetry, and sit down with me, under the sky or under a tree. On the road, Kerouac, and books to be unwrapped, reading and writing has replaced my rap. But, I keep on rapping and rapping on I will do, when the season is winter I will be with you. In the peace of your mind with snow flakes that are peace, home alone, elementary school, parents, and a new niece. My mind is being born again, and you search but have found, what is whole, cause what is the new now are: those visions of old. Like feelings you get about things that you miss, don't be mistaken cause you may just miss, those old thoughts are more real and alive in present, and now, like when I miss days of schooling I am learning now.
As for the baked bread in the kitchen with walnuts, and olive oil, and berries and dates, and almonds, and soy milk and love and cooking mitts and snow and leaves and children and new images of places you have never seen but know they make you happy. Those are my mind right now. My imagination is no longer imagination, because my life is imaginary. I am the director in the screenplay of life, so buy your ticket, because I have my whole life to do what I haven't done already. To all my friends I love you, and my family you are my comfort and love and joy I look forward to; and my girl who ever you are I know your there and I love you also. I don't care what you look like anymore, as if I ever did. For now for you readers, just put on that imaginary head dress, and walk around cause now one will see it except you. 50 feet tall with feathers and beads and wind blowing front yard rainbow twirlers, and Buddhas, and crosses, and little shrines. No one else will see you walking through the fall's leaves with the head dress, only you know it is there. That is your mind, and with that, going out or not, my love will always be there for who ever loves me.

On the Road, Install #1

2008-09-19T09:32:00.000-07:00

Scotty hits the road!!

Freedom on the open road, the bars of modern reality. I gripped the steering wheel with tight-clenched palms, because the road in front of me was foreign. San Diego drifted far behind me, not visible, even through the obscured view my packed trunk provided. My aim was Las Vegas to a friend’s house, where I would rest one night and continue on my travels.
I hadn’t climbed for three weeks, while not on the rock; long distance running and surfing had been a ritual of mine.
“I hadn’t driven by myself for five hours for a long time” I reminded myself.
The trip to Las Vegas seemed some sort of natural psychedelic experience. “This is a turning point in my life,” as my mind wandered in retrospect. Alone that day, I tried to forgive myself for some of the things I have done in the past. For years that seemed deterred I replace with positivism. For others I may have harmed, I would have to forgive and thank them for their patience. My jealousy, yearning, and gluttony to may have lead in another path, had to be surrendered.
Apple Valley had an interesting notion, “when you drive with posture, your energy is better.” I slumped. and returned to posture, slumped and returned. “Ha” that’s funny how that is.
I was getting hungry so in Baker I ate some left over rice, Nan, and Vegetable Curry. Baker was desolate. Under a king of Egyptian desert skies, the skies rotated endlessly with toxic beauty. But, the only animals that walked the city were undernourished rats that sipped high fructose corn syrup on nomadic ventures between Saudi Arabian drive thru liquor stores.
The day before the trip, I ran 20 miles continuously in four hours in ten minutes. The run was the farthest I had ever done. I think my body responded harshly nearing Clark Mountain. Engulfed by Flu like symptoms: Chills, Nausea, and a headache, I told myself:
“I’m getting sick…Great!” I cursed.
Just the time to be getting sick, right at the beginning of a four month road trip. I rolled into Vegas delusional. The bright lights and the mixed thoughts that ran through my head were nothing less than distracting. I pulled up in front of the house, and my phone rang immediately,
“Where are you?” Chris questioned me.
“I’m out front dude, I’ll be there in a second."
I got the news that the some of the Big Up posse was going to inhabit my sleeping spot.
“Sweet” I thought to myself, “looks like this trip is starting off great.”
Stepping onto the outside patio Chris showed me my sleeping area. I grabbed my Sir Lands A lot crash pad and lay down.
I was running a pretty bad fever so I grabbed frozen Bananas from the fridge and a jug of water from the car. I got sleep, then woke, sleep, then woke. I chugged almost a whole gallon that night, and it turned out to be the trick. I woke in the morning feeling like I didn’t sleep enough, but the groggy state I slumped in the house with, was gone.
The next morning I sipped coffee with Brett Lowell, Chris Sharma, Dahlia, and a charming suspect named Cooper. My schoolwork was at my fingertips, while my hands urged to be on the wheel driving to Rifle.
I entered my car around 2 p.m. and started venturing to Colorado. I aimed for Grand Junction considering I could sleep there, wake, and do some homework before meeting with Eduardo Baca, my partner, and El Prechero Chico native.
The sleep there was peaceful, for I was now in uncharted land. My first breakfast on the road was pleasant and while the sky cried I watched time fly by, fully realizing how lucky I really am.
I met my partner Eduardo and his friend Scott in town around three at Rifle Community Library. I worked on homework till the library closed, and took a quick run to de-stress from the homework load. I then jumped In the Colorado River, changed my clothes and ventured back to my car to cook a Vegetarian Cuisine.
The sky the next morning had been kissed by the moon as she skipped away to make room for the sun. The skies were gorgeous and I had now decided to go check out Rifle State Park.
The leaves here are taking on beautiful colors. Fall is starting and the temperatures are perfect. The climbing in Rifle is like your typical limestone, just a lot of it in a very small concentration. Rifle has styles from technical vertical faces, to steep overhanging jug hauls.
Ethan Pringle and Scott Cory just rolled into town, and we scoped this area called the Fortress. East Coast Ballers Joe Kinder, his girlfriend Colette, and Dave Graham are also out here having fun and sending all the hard routes. Joe is really close to sending Kryptonite(14c) up at the Fortress. I have enjoyed climbing with my friends at this cool, not so well traveled cliff. I would definitely like to spend more time up at the Fortress sometime later in the season.
As for myself, school is occupying all my rest days! I am taking 2 online correspondence courses: One course is Nutrition and the second learning how to build a website using XHTML code. It’s really amazing I produced this blog update, because all my rest days I am swamped with school work. I told myself before the trip that school would come first. Climbing has slowly crept up again, and I know find myself sacrificing homework days for climbing days more often than vice versa.
Going Solo my dreams have never been in such vivid color. Driving from Rifle to town in the morning, I’ve never felt so refreshed, knowing that climbing and the beauty of my surrounding is providing a comforting home for a temporary time. The beauty of traveling is so amazing; I really don’t see myself getting home anytime soon. Until then, I have a test to study for!

Anticipation of a New Season

2008-09-05T08:43:00.000-07:00

OK, I'm finally beginning to believe that the Boise weather is truly changing. It always teases the senses this time of year with s touch of chill here and there. The evenings are getting cooler and cooler and the scooter ride to work is beginning to get almost unbearable in shorts. I look out my back door and hope that the weather holds long enough for the tomatoes on the vine in my garden will get just a couple more weeks to ripen and turn their brilliant red.
But truly, all of these things only eat up a little of my attention. Most of my thoughts these days are the upcoming bouldering season. As the giant stone beauties spend the evenings and nights in the cool air, their molecules align for perfect climbing. The feel of my cool tips and the friction on the rock will soon be a reality. It’s training and sending time. I have so many projects and new lines in my head; I can hardly get anything else done. I just want to sit under the boulder and stare up at the sequences, becoming entranced with the potential movements…

On What's Important---from the coffee shop

2008-08-27T10:57:00.000-07:00

Idle in San Diego, I belay at the local coffee shop in San Diego. Sipping green tea with milk I search my mind in retrospect over the last week of travel.
I left San Diego one week ago to attend the Salt Lake City Outdoor Retailer Trade show. I hitched a ride with Carlos Mason and Anayo Baldassari to Vegas. There, I met up with Chris Lindner, Spencer Mcrosky, (two climbing buddies whom I've spent a lot of time with this summer), and Joe Brooks. We left early Tuesday morning for Nephi, shortly west of our destination, Maple Canyon. The boys ate Taco Time right off the exit, where I was surprised to find whole wheat.
Annually, an event dubbed, "Cobble fest" attracts road trippers from all over the states. The event offers an opportunity to hang out before the seasonal retailer show. One of the event organizers: Jeff Petterson, even put together t-shirts for the low key, unsponsored event. We only had about 24 hours, 3 people (joe climbed at another cliff), jet lag, and 1 rope; so it was a bit hard to get super psyched. I worked on a juggy line called 'Sprout', which involved fairly easy movement on good holds following a line out the right side of the "Pipe Dream Cave". I camped on the soft soil that night, my clothes, a burrito, wrapped in an inside out sleeping bag case, fearing rain would escape the sky. I woke more refreshed than any bed had ever hosted, I was happy to be natural.
We left for Salt Lake around 2 or 3 p.m., checked into a hotel (that was under Chris's name, supplied by Maxim) and got to partying. Even if you're competing, your main objective for the trade show, should be to drink. Don't drink much? Have a few, kick back, and shut up, cause there ain't much else to do. My shrieks of laughter pierced the car, for I laughed at no punch line, just my alcohol laden life juice, that sparkled with energy in the night.
My main objective besides letting loose, was to make some contacts in the industry. Contacting Urban Climber was a priority, as was speaking to some people from PrAna clothing. Both initiatives turned out positive. Joe Iurato from Urban Climber magazine is psyched on me doing some work, as well as I am psyched to be offered such a great opportunity. Jeff Leads handed me the unique opportunity of being able to represent PrAna climbing for years of traveling to come.
True friends are the images that come to mind, in the time we find to periodically intertwine. I find my sign corresponds to others, with people from different situations, upbringings and mothers. Like Buck Branson for instance, met him four years ago, in the front of coffee shop, his cell phone he beholds, "check out these photos from black mountain you see, this is a v10 and that person is me." Now four years have passed, and I'm on the v10, it's amazing to compare the present to then. Buck and I sat at a table this trip, and Buck is my only friend that doesn't talk shit. I respect him for that, and respect his kindness, because it's not very often on earth that you find this. It's amazing to notice, small things affect another, so next time you talk, think of the words that you mutter.
San Diego is going well. I have rekindled my fascination with running, and with sore arms and pecs from pull ups, have decided to take a few days off from climbing . Tomorrow I work at Vertical Hold, where I volunteer mornings to help young future athletes rock climb. After I'll attend a Padre game with my dear girlfriend Lahna, her mother, Dena and her mother, Lou.
Tonight, my mother's fiance, Kannen had his birthday at a nice Thai restaurant in town. Here I met a man named Jim who is the chancellor at Mira Costa College. Jim was a professional skier for Ten years. He rested at the best skiing areas when in season, and related positively toward the climbing I pursue. In a discussion ranging from Utah's blondies, to job opportunities, I concluded with a goal: Self worth cannot be measured in material wealth, or a degree. The only thing that can make one happy is a sense of spiritual fulfillment, plus the hard work that led up to it. By building climbing walls and taking kids outside, I want to help Urban Children get out of the environment they live. If I earn no money doing such, than I earned even more worth in respect, from others and myself. I want to step out of the world for a second, take a look at myself, and disengage from the selfish routine we all seem to enjoy. I have never been afraid of giving myself to the less fortunate, and along with climbing, this is something I have always been passionate about. Stay strong. -Scotty
Also my cousin Mark and awesome wife Christine have brought Charlotte Frances Lear into the world! Congrats guys, and bless my new second cousin!
Plus, don't stress, OdUb international climbing rap star and myself should be coming out with a bangin' track this season, so keep yo' headz up!

NEWS FROM THE COBRA

2008-08-19T12:27:00.000-07:00

A BLOG ENTRY FROM KEVIN JORGESON

BOULDER OF THE YEAR 2007

Hi Everyone!!I'm hanging out in a coffee shop/kids play center. Who thinks of thesethings? Seriously! Combining one of the greatest pleasures in life (coffee)with screaming infants! Oh well.The weather has been, well, hot. Very hot. And very humid. Its kind of likedipping your hands in butter and then trying to climb holds made of glass.Still fun though!For a day by day blow of the trip, check out my "journal" on my site, but Iwanted to share some other stuff with you guys. Like pictures! Check out theattached mini trip report.Every morning I crawl out of my stinky tent (VERY STINKY), stumble around"Tarplandia" (our camp name) for some coffee, then walk up a hill to admirethe view of the valley and lake. Yesterday morning I was doing just thiswhen I saw my first bald eagle! So cool!There is sooo much to climb here. The Grand Wall, or The Chief, features 1- 7 pitch trad climbs on impeccable granite. I've get to climb this featurebut plan on it soon. I did the classic Exasperator Crack, laughing the wholeway (see pic. Its not me though).The bouldering in the forest is small and concentrated. The granite heredoesn't lend itself to many holds, so most of the boulder problems are liptraverses. There are a few good lines though, like the one in the tripreport, called Be On 4, a classic v7 Charlie Barret and I did. Super fun. Ohyea, Charlie is here! It's been awesome to hang with him this whole time.Guy is a riot. I've been up to the Cobra Crack 3 times now. See attached pic. It's reallyhard! It starts in the dihedral with some 5.12 stemming and finger locksbefore pulling onto the slab and a no hands rest. Next is another section ofhard 5.12 finger locks to a jug. From here, it's sick. Two set up moves getyou in position for a seriously hard reach for a distant lock. I've onlydone this move maybe twice. 4 or five more moves set you up for the secondcrux. You reach high with your right hand for an undercling mono with theright middle finger, backstep the left foot, and do your best to lock it offfor the next reach. Stick this, reach left hand up, pinky down lock, andkick your feet above your head into a heel toe lock. Hang off the heal toeand reach out left to some edges. Swivel out of the heel toe and high stepto a jug. Heinous! Its hard to maintain psyche when it is SO PAINFUL. Myvery first try yesterday yielded a torn pinky finger, through the tape!Anyway, enough climbing talk. The weather is taking a turn for the worst.Its raining right now and will be for the next few days. I anticipate manyrest days in front of the computer, so email me so I look like I'm doingsomething while I stare aimlessly at this screen for hours at a time, jackedup on caffeine and pastries!

Relationships and Climbing...a tough subject

2008-08-08T10:19:00.001-07:00

by Scotty Glasberg
With only one week back at home. My mind raced between crucial decisions I had to make between school, love and climbing. “Is this class still open?”” Will it even help my future?” “I can’t take a rest day, I will become weak. Is the Outdoor retailer show worth the time and effort?” “Will it damage my relationship?” Either a “yes” or “no” would have been a sufficient answer, but only my indecisiveness would respond. Trying to meditate as I drifted over the ocean swells on my surfboard was hard. These thoughts were the mist of my mind; easy penetrable by the rays of the sun, but would take time to burn off.
This actual meteorology and the fictional weather of my mind, was a common setting in the San Diego life. School was stressing me out, which made it hard to deal with the person I am most fond of, my girlfriend, Lahna. Between the time I spent in the morning surfing, and the effort I put into climbing during the day, it was hard to give her the quality time that both of us needed. Hence, I was soon to learn, that out of the deepest moments of stress and despair, is in concealment one of the biggest lessons to be learned.
I found myself trying to live the life of a traveling climber at home. I felt more connected to climbing by doing this; life was like a constant road trip. Eating healthy is an important lifestyle to me. I consume organic Granola in the morning, covered with Dates, Bananas and covered with Soy Yogurt. I then proceed to the library, sending out emails to different people who I had to respond too.
Concurrently, I had to enroll for a good class at school, so a lot of my time in S.D. involved several trips of dropping, adding classes, meeting with counselors, and seeing if specific online classes would transfer. My mind was foggy, running around, the distractions of life became so overwhelming I couldn’t grasp anymore, what it was to be glad, simple and at peace.
Hanging out my window like a dog trying to absorb life and breathe, my girlfriends inherit beauty wisped through my hair, in the form of the wind from my open window. . It was my fault to tell Lahna that I was having trouble making decisions, because the most attractive person is a competent one. I wanted her next to me, and for all my other priorities to be unknown, or at least for only me to know. I worried about my imperfections, and tried to show her, the girl that I love so very much, that I could deal with pressures maturely.
I listened to the soothing sounds of reggae as I traveled in the misty early morning to go admire the glassy surf. Taking deep breaths eased the constant distractions that moved fluidly through my mind.
Things between Lahna and I were getting harder to deal with. She is leaving for a four year university, and I am attending online classes and practicing my rock climbing on the road. The stress seemed to climax one night when I discovered that she was not sure she wanted to consider our long distance relationship. Even if we were not going to see each other every day, our strong love would hold us together; I thought we had already worked all this out. I was amazed to her struggling with the stress of the times, just as much as I was. We proclaimed our love for each other, but I thought that night was the last time I would kiss her sweet lips.
Ironically, the next morning, I rose up singing in the summertime. Ironic because I had heard Janis Joplin speak of this phenomenon. I tried not to focus on my newest loss, and hopped quickly in the shower.
I ate my grains, yogurt, dates, and bananas accompanied with plain coffee. We drove in the morning sorbet skies to the Riverside Quarry. I received a message on my cell phone from my love, “are you in Riverside are you o.k.?”, Even though I desperately wanted confirmation she missed, I declared I need time to think. I wanted to focus on my climbing for the morning and have one day without speaking to Lahna.
I traveled home, trained at the gym, went for an afternoon surfing session, and delivered a letter to my so called “former girlfriend”. After I ate food with my mother and her fiancé, Kannen whom I enjoy, I skated down to the local market and bought the most expensive pint of beer I could find. I proceeded up to my friend’s house where I started to drink the beverage and started to loath over my loss.
I returned to my casa and couldn’t take not speaking to Lahna. Receiving a private call that night with no one on the other line, I sensed that we missed each other just the same, I then called. Her voice sounded like morning after a good night’s rest, as we then proceeded to inform each other that we wished we had hung out that day.
The next morning there was no fog at the beach, and the sun flowered across the ocean revealing the clarity of the water. We planned to meet at the local organic food store after I was done surfing. As Lahna walked in the store her face looked more beautiful than ever, and as I wrapped my arms around her beautiful frame. Buying her a drink I found no more value in the money that I would selfishly save for my climbing journeys; I felt a sense of renewal, I was so grateful to have her back, that no material item or worldly distraction could take that joy away from me. I had learned that sometimes you don’t realize what you really have until it is gone. Like Peter Tosh once said “you do not miss your water, till your well runs dry.”
We sat on the bumper of my car while listening to Jimmy Cliff and ate our meals. The pressures of school seemed minimal when everything took care of itself through online enrollment. All the classes that I needed to transfer were transferable, and I confidently walked back to the car with Lahna in the front seat feeling ready and embark to the Outdoor retailer tradeshow.
I gained knowledge about love in the time that I was back at home. When you love something so much, it is hazardous to let minor distractions come between you and something so close to your heart. Treat every moment that is to be enjoyed, with a perspective that is like the first day you were ever to experience it. With every new day, pretend like it is a new item or experience. Excited like a child, open the present of each day like it was Christmas morning. The distractions of life will ease themselves off like the ebb of the tide when I walk from the surf back to my car. Stay tuned…

C-Rad and Nate Coffman in the Boise Foothills

2008-07-28T11:54:00.000-07:00

C-Rad Vid from McCall, Idaho

2008-07-21T13:02:00.000-07:00

Road Rants from Scotty G

2008-07-21T12:55:00.001-07:00

After a severe drought in Lander, Rain has finally trickled, rythmically from the heavens. Spencer and I, busy circuiting routes, felt the sun one moment, and noticed clouds the next. We retired to the community pool, after a long down patrol session.
The pool is really cool. A huge family gathering spot, they have a good sized pool, and some interesting features to boast. At the corner of the pool lies a 15 foot climbing wall, but we were unable to climb it because some sort of bolt was missing. Spencer was a swimmer in college and challenged me to a friendly race. I thought I'd done well, until I found out that he was doing the butterfly stroke, while I was in freestyle. Carlos, Chris, Spencer and myself moved to the showers, washing the earth's dust from our flesh and down the drain. The coffee shop awaits! Where I sit now, looking at shades of grey that move over wispy trees, on an unknown avenue. My imagination has time to span while writing here. The limits of my sight through the coffee shop window expands my vision upon what is possible. For all I know this could be an avenue in San Francisco, and the year could be 1960, and maybe I could just be philosophizing.
Everything has been going extremely well this trip. I have been sending a lot of climbs, having a jolly time with friends and have made some great decisions about my future. Only one unfortunate happening; which I'll arrive at later.
As far as decisions, Humboldt County looks like y place of residence for next fall. Since I started climbing, living central to some awesome climbing has been a goal for myself. I've jumbled with trips to Vegas, Utah, Texas, East Coast, Cali , Nor. Cali. Coast, Canada and Spain. All of the above have some of the most amazing climbing I've ever witnessed. Although Vegas and Utah were very appealing, and obviously Spain and the East and it's plusses, Humboldt county seems right. With amazing climbing, diverse people, and located in some of the most aesthetic wilderness environments. I thought Humboldt would be interesting

, and suitable homestead. Humboldt places me in close proximity (4.5 hours) from my beautiful girlfriend Lahna, and the area has central climbing to boast.
"Lost Rocks" is located just to the south of the Klamath River mouth. Situated at the base of a beautiful forest filled with redwoods, Sitka Spruce, Douglas Furs, Maples, and Red Alder trees, some of the most creative and exploratory bouldering (plus new routes) lies about an hour away from my house. The climbing if forever changing at lost rocks because the tides vary the levels of the sand. This allows the boulder heights to change constantly. Where pirates seem like they could appear out of the mist, I predict, solidarity, hands covered in magnesium carbonate, sifting my hands through the wet sand, tyring to send my project.
On top of all the good bouldering, lies a bundle of quality limestone sport areas. The Trinity Aretes have the highest concentration of hard limestone routes. With 3 5.14's, Trinity Aretes will be my main area of concentration. You can check out some of the footage from the Trinities in "Spray", Brian Solano's film about Northern California Rock Climbing. You can buy this video through chrislindner.com
The Marble Caves are another area along the Redwood Coast I can't wait to see! I've seen pictures of the area through Chris, and though I've never been there climbing, the quality of routes is superb, with grades ranging from warm up range to hard. The rock is blue, gold and white. I just heard Ceacilville bluffs as well, another killer sport area to add to my tick list.
I just found that the Coast has a bunch of sandstone nestled in the woods just above the Paul Bunyan statue. There area has nothing above 12c but is worth a look for undone lines, and also has an abandoned project.
Above all, I'm siked. Along with established climbing, my search to find new areas will be relentless. I want to be able to show Chris (a nor. cal enthusiast) and friends when they come to visit, a new Nor. Cal gem. Whether sending hard routes or finding new areas, leaving my mark in Northern California will be a goal for the fall.
With the trip in Wyoming winding down, I've really only had one unfortunate occurrence. Everything was going fine on this beautiful Saturday afternoon. Waiting for the temperatures to cool down, I decided to go stock up on Bananas, Tortillas, some beans, and rice. I ran across the street, while leaving my groceries unattended in Safeway (Don't hate), and quickly inserted my ATM card in the slot. Withdrawing $60, the ATM wanted to know if I needed any more assistance.
would you like a balance?
Sure, why not, I clicked yes.
Taking the receipt I walked hastily back to the grocery store, forgetting one crucial item, my ATM! I didn't recognize that the card was missing until 2 hours later while buying a hole repair kit for a hole in my sleeping pad (another unfortunate event, but doesn't bug me in the least). The kid at the climbing store was amazed.
"Holy shit dude, the same thing happened to me when I was in San Diego! "
I looked through my wallet and still couldn't find it.
"You know what man" the store clerk said. "There's a green bike outside the back door, go ahead, use it."
I raced out the back door hopping on the two wheeler and hauled ass to the bank. Ill-fated, no card was by or in the ATM, at the safeway, and the bank I left it at was closed.
Remembering when my mom or dad lost a credit card, I knew what to do. I called Wells Fargo (which was fortunately open) in San Diego, and immediately cancelled the card. The balances were straight, and I rode back to the coffee shop still on my phone. The crew got their kicks in seeing me ride up on a random bike.
"What the hell scooter?!" Carlos exclaimed.
"Your a fricken' crack up dude" Chris followed.
I had put no effort into explaining, for I was getting my tellers info on the phone.
"So they'll be no problem if the balances change tomorrow? I just contact you right."The teller could sense the stress in my voice.
"Yes sir,"he assured me. "Everything will be fine."
I got back to the coffee shop and let the others know what had happened. Good thing I had bought the majority of the groceries I would need for the remainder of Wyoming. Plus, I had about $14 in my pocket from the previous grocery run. I laughed the event off, and was happy to return to our camp by the river.
Timeless on my cosmic journey, I realize those afraid of death, dare to experience life. Life is short, so time cannot be defined. It can either have value, or none at all. We've entered the fourth dimension of time, when the future's imaginary objects, turn into real life symbolism. Love is the greatest power in life, for it's energy rains eternally. LOVE (don't hate).
I hope you enjoy the pictures enclosed. For those who have heard me talk about my local bouldering area that I have developed (back in San Diego).
Here are a few pictures. The pics portray some of the area's classic problems, both old and in the future. Thanks for the pictures Jason (volunteer).
And expect more pictures from the area once I get them on CD from Jason (volunteer). Plus more from the Vegas Trip are comin'.
Chris Lindner hooked it up with the Trinity Aretes photo of a route called "Spliff." And I found Tim's photo of Ethan on Google. Thanks Tim
for being a master photographer. Plus I think I was there.

Scotty Spew

2008-07-18T10:20:00.000-07:00

Waking up early is routine from all the surfing I was doing before work back at home. Waking up here in Sinks Canyon, is a little bit different than waking up in San Diego. I begin my day by rising early, and catching a glimpse of the fiery, round, luminous sun peering between the eastern cleavage of Sinks canyon. I open the cab of the truck to reach into my toiletry bag, and grab my travel size apricot face scrub. I look forward to this routine: grabbing my face wash, heading down to the river (which is right next our tent), kneeling down and throwing the ice cold water upon my flesh. I proceed to mask my face with the sand feeling substance, lather, and wash. I then stand up feeling clean, ready to begin the day. My sleeping pants are comforting, keeping me warm while standing out in the ripe morning air. I put on my Prana Sweatshirt, which I can grab easily,conveniently adding one more comforting layer. Breakfast is my favorite meal, buying the most natural cereal I can find, my stomach yearns for a pick me up. I pour dates, almonds and whole grains into my camping bowl,add some blueberry yogurt, banana, and effuse a glass of rice milk or coffee. I like eating large portions, it is not that I crave so much the food that I eat, but climbers sometimes eat so little, that there metabolism doesn't have much to burn. I feel that it is important to maintain a healthy calorie intake, so that your body doesn't acquire strange eating habits. After we all finish our breakfasts, our rest day commences. We had heard rumors of an awesome, natural water slide at the top of sinks canyon. Miah (or Jerimiah) from SLC gave us the beta on how to get there.
"Right before the bridge park at the lot on the left, the trail will lead about 3 miles up to a series of waterfalls, hit the second one. Splash some water on the right side, where the shoot is, and friken' go dude!" Jerimiah exclaimed enthusiastically.
"Alright. We'll check it out." We agreed.
The hike turned out only to be about a mile and a half. Along the way we stopped at some Eddies and tried to bait some fish with our lure. Spencer managed to catch two small trout, one didn't make it, the other one did; we were sad for the one who didn't live.
Spencer McCroskey is a good guy. He's medium sized in height, but stands strong like a bull. His brown shaggy hair is childish, and at 26 you can't get much more playful. There's something sincerely kind about Spencer, it's sort of unexplainable. Maybe, it is his stories about smuggling climbers across the border into Mexico, an onerous action. Or his tales about in- school detention; where Spence and his buddy got their other mate drunk, coaxing him to jump out the third story window to escape detention. Little did they know, under the bush he jumped into, was a retaining wall that broke the kids femur. Or maybe it's because he's got a brother named Scotty, which he let's me know from the top of a route he completes, "Hey Scotty, you know I got a brother named Scotty" He yells from the top.
"Oh yeah, Really?" I reply.
"Yeah! so you my brotha'." I've never had a brotha' so it felt pretty cool.
Continuing on the hike we finally reached the slide. About 30 feet in length, the water polished granite acutely angles down and drops into a deep pool of water. Of course, I was the first one to test it out. Sitting at the top of the slide, I reminisced of Wild Rivers or the local San Diego Water park with my friends, cross your arms and just go. Chris counted me down, " Five, Four, Three, Two, One!" I didn't hesitate a bit. Throwing my arms out, I plunged into the unknown, taking no hesitations, just going. Maybe, that unique ride into the water was a materialization of my current experiences; making an ambivalent decision and having a refreshing outcome. Everyone had their turn after myself, and we couldn't get enough. Soon others started to come up and we jovially watched them throw themselves down the water slide. One zany character would always slip and fall, sliding down the areas that looked quite scary and dangerous.
I sat in the sun, in a natural recliner, soaking in the relaxation that encircled me. "You gonna eat?" Chris and the crew exclaimed behind me.
"Sure." I didn't know they were eating behind me, but as Chris said that, my stomach was just beginning to growl. Carlos and I had bought Hummus and Avocados the night before, along with Organic Garlic Bread. We all shared what was there and I had what I could, without being greedy.
The hike really took it out of us, and the heat was starting to come down, making us weary. We began to hike down and took pictures of the beautiful sites that we heretofore visited. Spencer and I trailed behind Chris and Carlos as we made our way down to the car.
The gate to the lakes above the waterfall (which all seems so interesting now because I visualize the pattern in which naturalness is defined. Looking down from space, I imagine the beauty of geography. Natures organic rhythm that percolates all over the lands of the earth, in other respects the synchronicity of nature) opened at four o'clock. We followed a pilot car which lead us up a windy dirt road (that was being paved) up to a beautiful body of water. Chris pulled the end of his truck up to the river and we opened up shop. I sat in the front seat typing the beginnings of an Asana climbing article. The rest and the beauty of our day was a fount of inspiration for me write. No fish were biting so we moved on to another part of the lake. I sat in the car with Carlos for a little bit while Spencer and Chris fished below at a pond. I was absorbed by the Nas interview that played on XM radio, which gave insight into the world of Hip Hop music. We all congregated at the car once more and sat a top an cyclonic drain, relaxing on it's sides. I dipped my feet in the water, thought about whom I love, and sang to the others.
"When the lights go down, in the city" "I want to be theeeerrrree in your city." Letting out a howling "woah", I think the others may have felt me pleas of love and hope, and although my actions may have seemed like a story from a book, I feel like that is what makes life beautiful. Life is a book, write it.
The sun was starting to fade, and the days heat turned into nights environment. We reached camp just before twilight permitting just enough time to prepare an evening meal. Everyone was tired, and faded from the days hike and excitement. Just like in San Diego I wanted to hit the hay early to gain rest and strength for the next day of climbing. Tomorrow was dawn patrol, dawn patrol is where we get up early and seize best temperatures of the day. I look forward to waking up early and getting my heart racing, I can't think of a better morning activity. Commencing the day out with one of the things I love the most, Rock Climbing.
As I laid my head upon my pillow, I stared up into space and thought about my life. How things were going to turn out, and what I could do to make the best decisions. As my eyes closed and my mind drifted off into sleep, I would receive an email that would help me settle my chagrin. Making changes is part of maturing, some changes work and some do not, that is just a part of growing up. The process of life is intriguing enough, and the anticipation to see what the future holds in my fruitful age is exciting. Thanks for the advice

the eye feature

2008-07-15T09:18:00.000-07:00

Carving holds is becoming an art form for me. Many things fit into the category of "art form" Just the other day I was watching a show and watching a Jack Russell terrier tear away at a canvas with its claws and teeth creating art that sells for $3000 a piece.

When I started chopping away at foam over a year ago, I was trying to create holds close to the likeness of a piece of rock. I thought this is what would be most inspiring for me, imitating nature. Over the past few months I have change that perspective. I have found that shaping the familiar is more fun. It is becoming more of an artistic process for me. When I imagine people in a gym talking about a route or a boulder problem, I get most psyched imaging them calling out the holds by name. "Grab the big eye!" sounds much more interested than "Hold the pinch" or "Crimp down on that tiny thing". This involves more of a connection to the grip. I like this connection to climbing.

Going to the Outdoor Retailer Show in Salt Lake City is always exciting for me because it gives Asana an opportunity to bring new gear and products before buyers and potential customers. This year we'll be bringing the new Gunther pad, our new hangboard, and several of our new hold shapes. This big eye feature will be a part of the newness for sure. Knowing that people will hold it and look at it as an art form is thrilling. If they are a climber, they will inevitably scope it for its potential as a good feature, but I am hoping that they will also get that cool feeling whenever you see an interesting piece of work for the first time.

Adam McKenzie Update

2008-07-07T07:32:00.000-07:00

Hey Asana,
I just wanted to give you a quick update of what I have been up to lately. I have been getting a lot of video footage of me and my friends and making some movies for my site and other video sites on the web. I have also managed to get outside to Evans quite a few times and get on my projects and find some new ones as well. This past week I spent four days at Mount Evans. I came real close on No More Greener Grass and Clear Blue Skies; I need to get back ASAP to finish this amazing lines off. I hope to get some footage of these sends. I have also been finding some time for route setting as well. I would also like to discuss with you about the opportunity to design a pad that works better for areas with longer hikes. This idea came to me over the issue of pad stashing and also carrying my pad into Mount Evans every other day last week. I hope you had a great fourth an everything is well. Your support is greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Adam McKenzie

From Brett Johnston- ASANA ATHLETE

2008-06-23T12:03:00.000-07:00

my long weekend in salt lake city
The vertical world climbing team went down to Salt Lake City on June 13th to compete in the USAC divisional championship. Since i am not competing this year i went down as assistant coach. Of course through this competition i get a two day climbing trip to utah. Me and my coach Tyson went to American Fork and climbed many 1990's test pieces put up by greats like Boone Speed. At 95 degrees it was hard to climb in the sun but a nice shady wall wasn't too bad. Between watching the Vertical World kids tear it up and the sweaty limestone cliffs it was an overall good trip.

Trash Talk about Gym Climbing

2008-06-17T13:37:00.000-07:00

From Asana Athlete and Climbing Advocate, Scott Glasberg

Youth, Adults, Demographics, and Impressions

Gym Climbing has became the new playground for the Modern Climber. No longer is climbing on plastic training for climbing, gym climbing is now the place to climb. Growing up in San Diego, where surfing and road biking are more acknowledged than climbing, it is easy to see how more people are being introduced to climbing in a gym, rather than in a natural environment. Let’s examine how has this recent influx of gyms changed the demographic and face of climbing in general. Also, how does plastic influence the mentality of someone new to climbing? Climbing gyms are breeding grounds for young, upcoming dedicated climbers. Indoor climbing gyms are replacing after school activities, summer camps, and organized sports for many youngsters. Climbing gyms bring in younger kids, wielding more experience for those youngsters planning to keep climbing. This increases the amount of kids climbing, the overall popularity of the sport, and the strength of these future climbers. I can only forecast that with more kids becoming involved, the greater chance there will be stronger and stronger climbers appearing. As indoor rock replaces a location to introduce Rock Climbing, Gym Climbing is more readily available for those wanting to crank. The business-man who dislikes traditional work out regimen; or the stay at home mother, who doesn’t always have time to go on weekend trips, both find their escape through a couple hours of activity at the gym. From a young teen getting their kicks on lunging between small holds, to the over 40 woman increasing their fitness level, the density and population of climbing is increasing because of climbing gyms. Simply, Climbing Gyms make climbing a growing sport. Now what does this mean for the future of the nation? Analysts say that gas prices will decrease. The demography of climbers in climbing areas will increase, more gyms will be built, and people will have to commute less, sources claim. “Climbing gyms and our morals and virtues will restore humans to a more “natural man” state.” Said the last dirt-bag vagabond. Secondly, demographics regarding birth, marriage, disease and death, all are staggering with the influx of climbing gyms. With more single climbers mingling with one another, the rules of attraction (which were mentioned in a previous article, “Climbing Grades: Advantages, Disadvantages, and sex”) are sure to prevail. We notice that two main factors that attract two partners are Similarity and Proximity. Climbing Gyms act as a medium to increase these factors. The similar interest of climbing will most definitely attract two figures. Once a common similarity bond is shared, these two sweaty gym rats will realize how close they live to one another. This defines proximity: where we tend to fall in love with those who live close to us, rather than our possible soul mate who lives in Constantinople. Climbing critics believe demographics regarding disease and death will drastically decrease once people become familiar with climbing. I asked Hangontodat Crimper, and he stated, “The climbing mentality could save the world. Healthy Eating, Obsessive Exercise, and an Ecological mindset can only wield positive results’ climbing just needs to get more popular!” Notice climbing gyms are wielding positive results in society. The youths are getting stronger, and folks uncommon to climbing are now common, and the world could be saved because of climbing. Let’s take a gander at the only worry I have about climbing gyms: Their effect on how people perceive what climbing is all about. The Gym being the new medium for climbing, influences the mentality of someone who is being newly introduced, to be obscured. The gym climber does not have the privilege of a first impression. He or she lacks the impression of what climbing really is. First Impressions can be the most important things that determine the passion of a relationship. Indoor Climbing does not offer the same impression that outdoor climbing does. Until, a rock climber has an outdoor experience will he/she realize if they are passionate for climbing or not. For instance, the aspects of mentors and patience play a huge factor. A mentor from an outdoorsman’s perspective may give insight into the patience of the climbing journey for the climber. Where as, a new climber in a gym atmosphere does not recognize the true power of the climbing process, and may grow frustrated. It is only until the climber is reaffirmed with a natural connection, an uplifting second impression, that he or she will begin to love ‘real’ rock climbing. Those who have outdoor experience fuel the right atmosphere for these children, and adults alike. Impressions are everything, when meeting a woman, getting a job, or a random person on the street; impressions dictate the future of a relationship. This is how impressions and attractiveness work: When you have an impression of something that goes from bad to good, this is great, you will tend to like what ever the impression is of, more. Vice Versa when impressions go from good to bad, forget about it being attractive. Gyms can either build someone’s relationship with the climbing world, or quickly snatch their interest away. With this in mind, I can’t stress enough to encourage outdoor activity enough. The outdoors gives children a respect for nature, a chance to for a unique insight into virtues, and life long lessons to stand for.

Update from Scott Fitzgerald, Asana Athlete

2008-06-11T09:21:00.000-07:00

Hey Asana!
It looks like your time at the Teva Games was well worth the effort!Amazing job on the flooring!!Another month has passed like lightning and is full of adventure and learning.The job at the local restaurant and saloon is going well. I'm learning a lot about the restaurant business and local Wyoming ranch culture..lol.Climbing this last month has been devoted mainly to getting multi-pitch rock guide certified and doing some guiding on the tower.In mid May, I took a 7 day long 7a-7p guide certification course. It went super well and I got certified to multi-pitch guide. It was a lot of work and we put quite a bit of rock beneath our shoes.Other than the multitudes of easier guiding routes this last month, I haven't done too much hard stuff on the tower.My life has been eaten up by waiting tables and guiding...but hey, I have to work sometime. :-)I have had a Yosemite trip in the plans for at least 4 months, so on May 31st we (I and a friend from home) packed up and left the tower for Yose to do walls and long free routes.We got here to the Valley late on the 1st and headed straight for our first wall of the trip. (West Face of Leaning Tower) We stayed on the wall the 2nd-3rd and came down that night. Since then we have been doing longer free routes to get ready for our goal of the trip. We want to do the Nose in a day together.We are taking a much needed 1.5 day's of rest before getting back on the rock and shooting for that goal. We hope to get on the Nose within a week to try our NIAD venture.
In other news, the production company "Ghettohillbilly Productions" out of Arkansas is doing very well. We are having a time of it by working together over 2000 miles apart, but we are making headway. It's another hot summer in AR, so we are devoting it to learning how to edit and produce. We are waiting on better conditions in the south to get harder problems/routes and better shots.Right now it is a three person production company with only 2 people actually in AR. I have one of the 2 cameras with me getting some western footage. The Devils Tower video still might work out depending on my free time and schedule later this summer...we shall see."Ghettohillbilly Productions" got on the front page of UCMag.tv!!! Check it out! Things are looking good.
I'd still really like to swing by Boise on the way back to Wyoming, but it is still up in the air depending on how long it takes us to accomplish our goals here in the valley.
I think the rest of the day calls for hanging out in the El Cap Meadow starring at the Captain.
That's about it for now,--Scott