Rrryan's Watch Blog

Omega Merry Christmas.

2008-12-24T19:14:00.007-05:00

Special Boat Service (SBS) Omega Seamaster GMT Limited Edition

2008-12-16T18:15:00.031-05:00

Back in spring 2007 rumors began circulating of a supposed edition of the blue-dialed Omega Seamaster GMT 300 Co-Axial (ref. 2535.80.00) specially made for members of Britain's elite Special Boat Service (SBS), a specialized contingent of the UK’s Royal Marine Commandos and a rough equivalent of the US Navy’s SeALs. Shortly thereafter an article appeared in the watch-centric British QP Magazine (April 2007, Issue 24) attesting to the same. For more than a year and a half afterward essentially nothing was heard until very recently when some pictures and new information finally emerged.

Images used with permission from WUS member 148mac. Serial numbers blurred for security/privacy/anti-counterfeiting reasons.

The SBS Special Edition Seamaster GMT is in essence almost identical to the regular production model with a few minor variances. In the same fashion as many modern Speedmaster limited edition commemorative models, the inner side of the sapphire display back is emblazoned with the SBS unit logo. According to early sources the watches were also to be engraved with the "zap number" of the owner, presumably the unique number to identify the individual should he become a casualty without identifying name for morale and security purposes, much like the the "roster number" system adopted as a matter of Standard Operating Procedure (SOP) by most US Army and US Marine Corps units. However, current descriptions seem to indicate the watch numbers are issued on a serial basis with no connection to the owner.

Some initial accusations complained that the idea was a transparent Omega publicity stunt intended to capitalize on the publicity afforded by the James Bond connection and the DVD release of "Casino Royale" but following reports seem to discredit the notion. In fact, according to some sources that owing to the model's existing popularity among SBS and military members it was actually SBS members who approached Omega about the idea and not vice versa. There were also unconfirmed rumors that both the SBS and SAS had previously approached Rolex about making a special edition in the spirit of the earlier vintage "Milsub" 5517 and others but Rolex declined. (Photo courtesy James Dowling) The SAS later had a special edition watch produced by Breitling.

Other complainers and detractors pointed to the idea that the elite commando unit by reputation does not advertise membership openly; others have pointed out that unlike the SAS Breitling, when worn the SBS Seamaster GMT is indistinguishable from a regular production model.

Reportedly quantity will be limited to 500 with most (or all) of the series already spoken for but delivery as yet not 100% complete. Sale is restricted to "badged" SBS-qualified members alone, and not even affiliated suport personnel are eligible. It was also reported that the "Bond"-style skeleton hands were so strongly disliked by SBS members that after many requests a local AD was converting the hands to match the highly luminous sword-type hands used on the Seamaster 2254.50.00 diver and similar models for a minimal fee.

Only a single example has been offered by Omega for public sale, the watch featuring serial number — you guessed it — # 007. It sold at a charity auction for a tidy sum reportedly north of £19,000, approximately US$37,430 at the time! Like the X-33s sold to military aviators under the Military Purchase Program, the SBS Seamaster is shipped in regular retail boxes and packaging indistinguishable from civilian models. My original personal speculation at the time was that these were likely keepsakes intended for garrison and off-duty wear, but several other sources have pointed to the longstanding popularity of the blue Seamaster models within the British military. In fact, the Seamaster is so effectively omnipresent that it’s been frequently said that they might as well be issued.

There's no definitive answer yet as to value of the unique edition. At present these are mostly still held by the original owners with but a bare few having reached the collector market so far. It is probably unlikely that these will reach the value of the vaunted vintage military SBS-issue 5517 Rolex Submariners, but of course it's to be expected that they will fetch a considerable premium over regular production models in years to come.

Incidentally, I do know of at least one example that is presently for sale though at a hefty figure; interested parties are invited to contact me for more info.

UPDATE: Since posting this entry I've been in contact with someone with direct knowledge of the watches' use within the unit who was able to clarify some details:

My earlier suspicion seems to have been correct that these are mostly for off-duty and garrison wear and are not worn during operations or training exercises
Members were indeed able to select the s/n# matching their zap number when ordering
Total production quantity was actually 501: serial numbers range from 000-500, with s/n# 000 reportedly kept in a museum (perhaps the Omega Museum in Bienne?)
The rumors that the SBS had been previously rebuffed by Rolex have been called into question

Jürgen's Custom Vintage Leather Straps

2008-12-12T05:45:00.001-05:00

I wanted to take a moment to give a mention to something that I think hasn’t been getting the discussion and airplay it deserves lately: Jürgen's Custom Vintage Leather Straps.

For those who might not already know, Jürgen Hauff is a Germany-based strap maker, watch designer, and vintage watch restorer located in the traditional watchmaking region of Pforzheim who makes his high-quality watch straps in a variety of styles, especially well known for his vintage and military-style straps.

Custom-made straps from brick-and-mortar retailers typically cost hundreds of dollars; for what you actually get from Jürgen these are a complete steal. Not only are they made exactly according to the customer's specification with a variety of options not offered by other makers, but they offer an aspect which is to my knowledge wholly and completely unique in the field: they are be made from actual vintage leather!

The best parts of the vintage leather skin are carefully scraped and conditioned and used for the outer layer. An anti-stretch inner liner sheet and new leather or rubber for the inside complete the construction according to EU and German specifications for watch straps. For instance, the strap shown above on one of my Omega "US Army" watches from the WWII-era used to be part of one of these in its previous life, a 1940s vintage US pilot's jacket:

The appearance of the leather is striking - well-weathered and worn-in, soft and supple. A benefit of the vintage leather is that it's already broken in, as it's one of very few straps I've owned that is very comfortable right off the line.

Jürgen offers an almost dizzying variety of custom options to the customer including the material, lug and taper dimensions, length, padding, stitching color, buckle material and style, liner material and even underside material.

Another Jürgen-unique option is the now-iconic "tropic" design, in which the underside is lined with rubber and a Gore-Tex-like inner liner material is used to guard the upper from moisture. This configuration addresses the primary threats to the longevity of any strap: skin oil and perspiration. With this setup it is impossible to "sweat through" the strap and endanger the leather, leading to better appearance in daily wear and overall longevity.

Jürgen offers a variety of vintage leather material for conversion into straps, including leather jackets, flight suits, belts, and even holsters of countries like the US, UK, Sweden, the DDR (East Germany), Czechoslovakia, and even the USSR:

Of additional note is that Jürgen includes a signed, stamped and dated warranty card for the 1-year warranty for the strap. I was just floored. So far as I'm aware this is the only strap I've ever bought that includes any warranty at all. Most watch manufacturers regard leather straps as "wear parts" designed, well, to wear out eventualy not unlike tires or wiper blades on cars. As such strict interpretations of most current manufacturer warranties (including Omega's) don't even cover the straps or bracelets on even new watches!

On occasion Jürgen can even take on custom projects. One of the most despicably cool projects I've seen was a set of straps made from the leather of an old vintage baseball mitt sent to Jürgen for dissection. Another well-known project made straps from a vintage US Navy goatskin aviator jacket.

For ordering information, contact info@s-parts.de.

Gen 1 X-33 too "Blingy?" PVD It!

2008-12-09T15:55:00.002-05:00

In addition to some of the initial "teething pain" technical problems that sadly continue to dog the first edition Gen 1 X-33, a common refrain among detractors of the X-33 is that the polished bezel and pushers on the Gen 1 give it an aesthete that is far too "blingy." In addition to aesthetic problems, the glare caused by the shiny polished surfaces can become a distraction on what was ostensibly supposed to be a focused and purpose-driven "instrument watch."

An easy solution? Well, PVD it:

PVD refers to Physical Vapor Deposition, a process that applies a finish in such a way that it bonds with the surface at the molecular level, yielding a finish that is very hard and durable. The resulting finish is non-reflective and increases not only the tactical fitness of the watch but functionality as well as glare and reflections are minimized.

The PVD finish on this Gen 1 X-33 was performed under the oversight of Jack Alexyon of International Watch Works, who is of course well known in the military, dive, and sport watch communities for his exotic custom modifications and vintage-friendly "sympathetic" restorations of rare military watches.

Ordinarily I'm not a fan of "modding" of watches like this, but I have to admit that in this case the aesthete, functionality, and even durability of this X-33 have doubtlessly been increased. A lingering complaint is that the bezel markers are now more difficult to read especially in low-light situations, but at the same time the Gen 1's lack of a luminous pearl on the bezel gave it minimal low-light functionality anyway.

MWR Holiday Raffle

2008-12-08T18:40:00.012-05:00

I'd like to take a moment to give a little shout-out for the Annual MWR Holiday Raffle. Now in its 9th year, the annual raffle is of course old news in the collector community to those have been around a while, typically attracting entrants from non-military collectors and even non-watch collectors. But I thought it important to give it a mention for two very good reasons: the prizes are very cool and it benefits a worthy charitable cause, the Special Olympics.

Every year the Military Watch Resource (MWR) community collaborates to put on the raffle, with prizes donated from a variety of dealers, collectors, and community members. The prizes are typically fabulous - previous grand prizes have included a vintage Rolex Submariner 5513 (oh, those were the days!), vintage IWC and JLC Mark XI pilot's watches, a rare Sinn EZM1 ZTZ, and a WatchCo-assembled NOS Omega Seamaster 300. This year's grand prize is a vintage Tudor Submariner:

Other prizes typically include watches and various bits of watch paraphernalia, dive kit, militaria, and some downright esoteric — like this year's half-litre bottle of olive oil from olives grown on James Dowling's private estate in Italy. The prize list typically keeps growing as the drive continues, and in recent years there have been close to 100 prizes when all was said and done, so every single entry stands a very good chance of winning something and multiple wins are even quite common (for multiple ticket purchases, of course).

The drawing will be held on December 25 and prize distribution begins almost immediately.

As said above, the raffle is also a charitable endeavor with proceeds going to benefit the Special Olympics.

Gift purchases are also available for the watch enthusiast on your holiday shopping list or that person who's otherwise impossible to shop for.

Click here for more info and to purchase tickets.

X-33 Battery Replacement - is Renata Required?

2008-11-24T23:33:00.005-05:00

Another Inquiry from the Mail Bag:

"Hi,

I saw your advise in the article against using cheap batteries for the X-33. I know Renata is a Swiss brand, should I use them or does it really make a difference?

Thanks,
T."

Well, it doesn't really make that much of a difference. In fact, although Renata (part of the Swatch group) cells are OEM for Omega's X-33 and all Omega quartz watches, depending on who you ask relatively speaking Renata batteries have something of a reputation for leaking.

But very generally, a battery of the proper size from almost any quality name brand (Renata, Maxell, Energizer, Panasonic, etc.) should be just fine. Just avoid cheapo Chinese generics - the battery on your $3400 watch is just not a wise place to skimp on just a few dollars.

In fact, it's probably at least if not more important that the battery be fresh. Batteries have a finite shelf life and lose power with time even if not used. As the CR 2320 size is somewhat uncommon they don't get used as often as many other stock sizes and may have been sitting in a drawer for years and lost a lot of their juice. Try to find one that has been recently manufactured (look carefully for date codes) or barring that one with the most distant "Use By:" date you can find.

I used a Renata cell when I changed the battery in my X-33 a while back, but it was mostly just because a Renata was the only one I could find in the uncommon CR 2320 size that the place would sell to me at a sane (<$10) price.

Maxell batteries are OEM for Patek quartz movements (yes, there is such a thing) if that gives you any further indication.

Another Fake in Antiquorum

2008-11-14T05:32:00.019-05:00

Full disclosure: I may have a degree of bias here, so I'll leave you to decide the facts for yourself. After all, as alluded to in a previous post, I still have something of a chip on my shoulder with Antiquorum over some problematic (to say the least) watches that went to sale in the 2007 "Omegamania" thematic auction and in previous auctions.

And if recent events serve as a guide, it would seem for good reason.

Yes, another fake was found in an Antiquorum auction, this time in the catalog for the auction this past weekend (Nov 14-15).

Jeff Stein did a really good writeup at OnTheDash.com cataloging all the reasons to doubt the authenticity of Lot 39. As I have nowhere near his expertise with Heuer chronographs I see little utility in duplicating his efforts, but I'll attempt to summarize briefly: it's not a Heuer.

The "Index Mobile" technology was essentially a "poor man's" version of a rattrapante or split-seconds complication developed by Dubey and Schaldenbrand shortly after WWII. By using a center-mounted coil hairspring to return the split-seconds hand, the movement used a clever if somewhat inelegant solution to a problem which otherwise requires complex and expensive designs to achieve the same functionality.

And really, there's nothing wrong with the movement. There's even something endearing about the novelty of the approach and the degree of relative exclusivity. In many regards such a watch would make an interesting addition to a vintage chronograph collection.

Just not a Heuer collection.

Despite being marked and described as such, it's not a Heuer. And Antiquorum, though well aware of the problem leading up to the sale was determined to go through with the auction.

I could even forgive the initial mistake. Admittedly, checking the authenticity of all aspects and preparing listing descriptions for hundreds of lots is quite a challenge; I would have been challenged to do so to any degree of perfection even in the subject areas I have some knowledge of. And although Heuer's sport watches will garner the respect of even non-Heuer collectors, it's not quite a high-dollar marquee brand that might justify retaining an expert staff the way Patek or Vacheron might. It's even quite conceivable that the seller who consigned the watch to Antiquorum might not have known that the watch is inauthentic and might well have submitted it in good faith.

But in a sense that's exactly the problem: focus, experience, and expertise serving watch collectors is ostensibly Antiquorum's entire reason for being; it was the under-representation and lack of expertise in the major auction houses that gave rise to Antiquorum in the first place!

What's most alarming is the outrageous manner in which Antiquorum officials stuck to what had become an increasingly indefensible position even in the face of multiple expert opinions presented days in advance of the auction. To err is human; to err and refuse to acknowledge such in the face of evidence and still collect a sizeable fee might be termed fraudulent in other venues.

Once again Antiquorum has demonstrated a cheerful willingness to forego accuracy and transparency in their listings pursuit of bids and fees. There just isn't any other explanation for it.

Antiquorum's efforts to address the criticisms of the watch in the days leading up to the sale were stunningly limited. The grading report of the movement was modified to include "later" and, with incomprehensible arrogance, "upgraded" as if the watch had somehow been improved by inauthenticity. The choice of placing changes in the movement description is puzzling, as so far as I'm aware aside from the addition of spurious Heuer-Leonidas markings on the bridge there had been no modifications of the movement at any point and it was otherwise likely in the same state as when it left D&S, nor was there ever really any question of such. It can only be interpreted as an attempt to mask authenticity shortcomings by burying them here.

A disclaimer "note: this watch was custom-made" was also added to the description text, a phrase which is ambiguous at best when applied in this context. Custom-made? By whom? Certainly not Heuer or D&S, at least not according to officials with first-hand knowledge of those companies' production during this period. Only under the most liberal, nosebleed-inducingly mind-bending interpretation of "custom-made" can this description be termed accurate, and its addition here is misleading at best.

Antiquorum pointed to this addition as a de facto admission and warning to bidders that the watch was a fake, though from this description it is unclear as to how bidders would be able to divine as such from their description alone. An additional excuse given for proceeding with the auction was that the seller had consigned the watch with no reserve, meaning that it could conceivably sell at any price, however low. Ostensibly this might imply that that the watch could sell at something approaching its actual value, and Antiquorum management took this as an opportunity to wash their hands of the matter and let the invisible hand of the free market bring about a "just" outcome, as if that were still possible giving the misleading description.

Instead Lot 39, the inauthentic Heuer Index-Mobile, sold at 2600.- CHF, to which a 20% buyer's premium is added for a total cost to the buyer of 3120.- CHF (about US$2100). Antiquorum also collects an additional 15% commission from the seller for a total of 910.- CHF (about $767) in fees. Honor goes cheaply these days, it seems.

Perhaps no one who has followed the trade of late can still be surprised by Antiquorum's antics at this point, but something about it still stings. The abject willingness to trade upon bidders' faith in their ostensible honesty and expertise is absolutely derelict. The lesson here is still caveat emptor: buyer beware, no matter the seller's ostensible reputation.

The worst of the this sale may be yet to come: unfortunately, the horrible fake "S.A.S" Omega Seamaster 300 sold last year has had a persistent impact. Sellers of problematic Seamaster 300s in following months have pointed to the presence of a like model in the Antiquorum catalog as evidence of authenticity. And presumably there are buyers out there who are being swayed by it.

How long before there's another Index-Mobile with a premier brand name presented at auction?

TM 9-1575: Ordnance Maintenance: Wrist Watches, Pocket Watches, Stop Watches, and Clocks

2008-11-05T06:39:00.001-05:00

I managed to find a .pdf copy of the oooold WWII US War Department manual for watch repair.

For those who have never seen it, it's a really outstanding overview of the workings of watch and clock movements. And if you're a military collector there's plenty of historical data too. ;)

Check it out here: TM 9-1575: Ordnance Maintenance: Wrist Watches, Pocket Watches, Stop Watches, and Clocks

Chuck Maddox Lives

2008-11-04T06:30:00.003-05:00

Though I still have a sizeable chip on my shoulder with Antiquorum about the very questionable lots that went to sale in the Spring 2007 "Omegamania" thematic auction, another collector I know retains an interest in their latest upcoming action. Enough of an interest, in fact, to have planned a Martini-fueled auction-watch get together for that weekend, including the 5:00 AM session. Yes, apparently there are people who do such things. Should be a blast. :)

But anyway, though it's typically not my penchant I took a look through Anitquorum's online auction catalog, and in browsing through the listings I came across a few that really made me smile, though perhaps not for reasons that Antiquorum had intended. Take a gander at these lots in the upcoming Antiquorum Important Collectors’ Wristwatches, Pocket Watches, Clocks & Horological Tools / Imperial Treasures auction on Nov. 15-16 2008:

LOT 458

“Anakin Skywalker” Omega, “Seamaster”, Ref. ST 145.0023. Made in the 1970’s. Fine and very rare, tonneau-shaped, water resistant, tungsten-bombarded “1200 Vickers” stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, 12-hour and 30-minute registers, tachometer and a stainless steel Omega bracelet with deployant clasp. Accompanied by a recent Omega box.

LOT 459

Speedsonic “Lobster” Omega “Chronometer, Speedsonic, 300 Hz”, Ref. ST 188.0001 / 388.0800. Made circa 1975. Fine and rare stainless steel electronic wristwatch with square button chronograph, 12- hour and 30-minute registers, tachometer, day, date and Omega stainless steel “lobster” bracelet with deployant clasp. Accompanied by a recent Omega box.

Notice what seem like some bits of very curious terminology in there, oddly out of place for a high-falutin' Swiss auction? Seem a little out of place? "Anakin Skywalker?" "Lobster?"

The "Anakin Skywalker" and "Lobster" nicknames of course trace back to a clear and distinct source: Chuck Maddox. Though many of us knew him primarily through his chronograph collecting hobby, Chuck had a variety of diverse interests that he sometimes intertwined. Allowing his science fiction interest to overlap, Chuck endowed the the "Darth Vader Seamaster" name on his Omega Seamaster Chronograph 145.0023 since he thought it "a watch that would look completely at home at Darth Vader's wrist." The nickname took hold and has (evidently) now become commonplace in the parlance of the collecting world.

The "Anakin Skywalker" name for the similar tungsten-bombarded model of course came about through that odd transitive property of nomenclature. In Chuck's words, it was the "Seamaster that hasn't 'turned to the dark side', yet..."

Who imagined that this offhand, insider reference to one of his other hobbies would have such a widespread and lasting impact? At the time, it was just an in-joke among friends, or perhaps even just to himself that even predates my involvement in the watch collecting hobby. But now it appears to have been accepted as definitive nomenclature in the highest circles of collecting. Who knew?

The "Lobster" reference is perhaps less esoteric, owing simply to the distinctive appearance of the unusual Speedsonic ƒ300 Chronograph-Chronometer bracelet. Based on earlier 300Hz electric "tuning fork" technology that was arguably obsolete even on the day the oddball chronograph movement caliber design was conceived, the Speedsonic's distinctive design earned it a special place in Chuck's collection: its likeness became his avatar, the iconic image he chose to represent his online identity in watch forums. And of course since Omega has never used the "lobster" name in any of its literature, "lobster" might seem out of place to those who didn't know of Chuck Maddox.

On one hand, part of me starts to wonder if there's something at least a little unfair about uncredited use of Chuck's terminology by a for-profit entity to promote the commercial sale of a watch. But on the other hand, it's hard not to regard it as a severe compliment to the legacy of one of the greatest Omega collectors. What were once offhand, informal in-jokes amongst Chuck and his friends have now become part of the accepted lexicon in the highest circles of the hobby.

For what it's worth, attentive readers might also notice that though Antiquorum diligently included the lawyer-friendly "So-called" modifier when previously making uncredited use of Chuck's terminology in the "Omegamania" thematic auction catalog in 2007, they skipped it this time. And of course though Chuck if anything was slightly bemused at the usage, LucasArts might not feel the same about the use of their trademarked character name… ;)

Good Luck and Godspeed, Chuck.

Watch Books: Zero Hour by William Schorr

2008-10-30T05:50:00.005-04:00

Collectors new to military watches often ask for good books on the subject, and sadly there are relatively few. Among the most commonly recommended for those new to military watches is The Concise Guide to Military Timepieces 1880-1990 by Ziggy Wesolowski. Though concise as its title states, it provides an excellent overview of military watches from a variety of eras, and some nice photos.

Another fairly recent book with more of a grassroots history that quickly gaining in fame is Zero Hour by William Schorr. An experienced military watch collector himself, Schorr compiled photos and information about a vast number of both well-known and hard-to-find watches from a variety of sources (I was even able to make a small contribution). Though more of a photo compillation than informational reference, it contains brief informative descriptions as well.

For ordering information, see the publisher website at Blurb:

ZERO HOUR

A Photographic Ref...

By William Schorr

Book Preview

Omega X-33 Group Purchases: Please Don't Ask Unless You're Qualified

2008-10-28T01:37:00.004-04:00

Another frequent topic of pm and email inquiries to me concerns the Omega/Swatch USA Military Pilot Program described in my Omega X-33 Article. In short, Omega provides X-33 watches with custom caseback engravings to military pilots at a very deep discount (approx 70% off MSRP).

For reasons that continue to confuse me, irrationally optimistic internet forum readers frequently get it into their heads that despite an abject lack of qualifications they can simply form a group to make a purchase under a program for Military Pilots as if asking for free T-shirts. Somebody makes mention of it in a forum and suddenly there are 40-50 "Count me in!" and "Me too!" responses. The posts linger and are encountered in searches even months later. As can be expected the quest frequently leads them to me, and they're often strangely maligned when I politely decline to provide the information indiscriminately.

The anonymity of the internet sometimes causes people to become very brave, setting aside normal constraints of tact and decorum. And frankly I'm getting a little sick of it. One inquirer recently tried to deceive me in his requset, but made giveaway mistakes and misuses of jargon in his not-too-polite request. In subsequent messages he later accused me of lacking in patriotism by declining to provide the contact info to a stalwart patriot like himself. As a military veteran with service including combat deployments I found this odd, especially when the accuser was simply a collector and self-appointed expert on military memorabilia and equipment with no military service.

Yes, I do have contact info for making purchases under the program, which so far as I'm aware remains active. But no, I do not provide it to just anybody.

For reasons that admittedly perplex me as well, the person(s) responsible for answering web inquiries thru the Omega webpage seem to have no knowledge of the specialized niche sales area that is perhaps apart from regular distribution channels. I was only able to verify the continued existence of the program through a military pilot who had recently made a purchase under the program. He graciously provided me the contact info but requested that I use discretion in disclosing it, a request which I cheerfully honor.

In order to prevent Omega from being deluged with unqualified requests and honor the request of the owner who provided me with the contact info, I have chosen to release the contact info if and only if requesters provide a .mil email address to send the reply to. No exceptions. Providing a .mil email address is a trivial matter for anyone even remotely qualified. I think this is a very reasonable request and you're not going to talk me out of it, no matter how creative your excuse. Period.

If you disagree with my approach and think you ought be entitled to take advantage of the program, I invite you to contact Omega directly.

Authentic "NATO"/G10 Straps: Inquiry from the Mail Bag

2008-10-27T00:27:00.017-04:00

Vu writes,

"Hi, Today I came across your post on TZ regarding the NATO strap. I am in the search for the best, genuine NATO strap available. May I have the information of the dealers that you have known? Best Regard, Vu"

I've received several inquiries about this topic in recent months, and its frequent recurrence is among the reasons I decided to create this blog. Apparently when searching for terms like "NATO strap" in various forums some of my old posts come up in which I had offered to send referrals to dealers by PM to skirt annoying anti-commercialization forum policies.

First, a minor point of semantics: though I was admittedly formerly among the offenders and the usage remains common among internet collectors, strictly speaking the "NATO" name is something of a misnomer. What is commonly known as the "NATO" design is more commonly referred to within the British military as the "G10," a term used to describe a variety of issued personal kit items that are recorded on a form designated "G10." In fact, the official UK Ministry of Defence Standard 66-47/2 that governs the strap spec even only refers to it somewhat unceremoniously as "Strap, Wrist Watch." So far as I'm aware no other nations (NATO member or otherwise) use such a pattern officially and it remains unique to the UK, so "NATO" seems to be somewhat inaccurate or misleadingly vague. The "NATO" moniker became common in internet communities for reasons that really aren't quite clear to me; some accounts rightly or wrongly attribute the name to Italian or Japanese collectors. The fact remains however that it is not known as a "NATO" even in its home country and the name is misapplied. "G10 strap" is greatly preferred in my opinion.

Second, to the heart of the question at hand: I don't really know, at least not any more. My understanding and the landscape have changed considerably since my earlier forum postings. For one thing there no longer seems to be much of a consensus any more as to what exactly "official issue" or "authentic" straps are when it comes to custom colors and dimensions. In fact, strictly speaking, only 20mm straps in the "Admiralty Grey" color can rightly be considered official. And to confuse things even further, according to some sources some suppliers who formerly supplied the MoD no longer do so or have ceased operations, so some formerly "official" channels are no longer available. And at least one supplier I used to recommend is no longer reliable.

To complicate things further still, there's no clear agreement that "official issue" straps are any more desirable than well-made replicas; indeed, it would seem to be the contrary. For instance DEF STAN 66-47/2 requires only plated brass hardware, not nearly so strong or durable as the stainless steel hardware used in many replica designs. As well, the 280mm length specified in the spec is not long enough for the strap to be worn with the excess "tail" tucked into both keepers in the manner many are accustomed to (more on this below). The dimensions of the second piece that sits underneath the watch head also do not accommodate modern large watch case designs well.

So what to do then? Fortunately there are still some very good options for collectors:

A variety of dealers still supply very decent replicas of quality at least as good as the issue straps:

Bill Mahoney of Squinky.com is a long-time seller, well known for years in the military watch collecting community.
Nilsen's Straps Bands and Watches is another well-known source in the military collecting community, selling stock from a well-known wholesaler also offered by many other sellers but with an especially excellent reputation for service and competitive pricing. Longtime collector Randy Nilsen passed away earlier this year, but the business had been jointly run with his wife and family for some time before his death and carries on in his absence.

For collectors looking for a beefier, more substantial design, the Maratac G10 Series straps are truly excellent. Maratac uses steel hardware and a thicker, stouter nylon weave than the simple nylon tape fabric used by many makers and called for in the spec. The end result is a strap that looks stronger and more substantial than other designs. This may not always be an advantage if the watch is already thick as it can result in an overly bulky feel. But despite the significant design improvements the Maratac G10s are cheaper than many offerings, making them even more attractive. My only complaint is that the fabric eventually begins fraying, though after so many months of wear it's hard to hold it against them.
I also quite like the custom G10 replicas sold by Eddie Platts at Timefactors.com:

Timefactors uses steel hardware (some simple home testing with a magnet would seem to question that it is 316L as claimed in the description, but still very respectable stainless steel nonetheless) and a very sturdy nylon fabric that though stronger than typical designs does not lead to a bulky appearance or feel.
In fact, the Timefactors G10s would be my hands-down favorites if not for one (in my eye) shortcoming: they're just a little short. In all fairness, the Timefactors design is actually among the truest to the actual DEF STAN spec; however, the overall ~280mm length required in the spec will not allow most wearers to wear the strap in the manner to which we have become accustomed after years of (admittedly) "improper" replicas, with the excess tail of the strap folded outward and tucked under both keepers. In fact, I have to wear mine exactly as shown here in the Timefactors marketing photo, with the short tail tucked inside one keeper. Not only is it a pain to get it to go in like that when donning the strap, it's prone to coming out and the appearance isn't as neat or clean as longer designs. See this comparison photo:My only remaining gripe is that the grey Timefactors strap is much lighter in color than the conventional"issue grey" color I expected and is in fact was much closer to silver-grey in my eye. Buyers outside the UK/EU may also find the shipping costs to be relatively high.

But in short, it's almost hard to go wrong. There are surely some shoddy imitations out there with cheap fabric, poor contruction and anemic plated hardware. But owing to the simplicity and security of the one-piece design, even cheaply made G10 designs can be fairly reliable. And after all, even lowly plated hardware is good enough for the MoD. By that line the name of the game simply becomes reserving paying premium prices for straps that deserve it. I still own a cheapie "Bond" strap of indeterminate pedigree (shown as "UNK" in the photo above) purchased years ago off a sales forum for a negligible sum from a seller who was unashamedly dumping some unwanted straps. The fabric is fairly thin; the plated hardware, unremarkable. And yet even in spite of itself it still performs exactly as intended and keeps the watch firmly fastened to my wrist. I wouldn't pay $40 for it, but simultaneously I have to admit that the G10 design might have a little bit of genius in't if such a lowly specimen can perform so well.

So there you have it - my opinions of some of the current offerings of G10 straps. I've long had writing an article on the history of this design on my to-do list as well. With luck I'll get to it sometime soon.

Welcome to my new Blog!

2008-10-27T00:17:00.002-04:00

I've resisted the idea for a long time, but I've finally decided to establish a blog dedicated to one of my hobbies, collecting watches.

Although I learned much of what I know through various discussion forums around the intertubes, for various reasons I no longer frequent forums like I used to. But periodically either through the forums or my website I'll get an inquiry, and while I'm usually glad to answer I wanted to be able to share the responses with a wider audience.

Enter the blog. The goals for right now are not too ambitious, and will likely center around publishing and sharing short little comments and responses to inquiries. I still prefer an article format for my writings though as they allow for greater depth and detail. At present I do not intend to commit to a rigourous timed publication cycle, so updates may be intermittent.

But then again, most of my writings about watches started out pretty unambitiously too, so we'll see how it goes. ;)

Enjoy.