Hong Kong baby!

The End of Alice in Wonderland--the Final Days in HK

2009-07-15T07:52:00.000-07:00

So I guess all good things must come to an end. Thus, I have left Hong Kong to return to the "real world." The real world in this sense being the US and law school. The real world to me also represents my long held desire to become a lawyer and represent the Maya of Belize and other underpriveleged people around the world. Finally, of course, it means returning to friends and family who I have missed dearly throughout my Asian saga.

Coincidentally and appropriately, I am reading Jean Paul Sartre's "The Age of Reason," which is about a man forced to face reality and the meaning of freedom. As he protests in the book, "The age of reason is the age of resignation"; in a sense, I agree with this statement, as leaving Hong Kong is, in a way, resigning myself to working a lot harder and getting to travel and do fun things like that a lot less. In another sense, working in Hong Kong, or anywhere for that matter, without working your way up or getting a degree means you have relatively little freedom due to financial and job induced time constraints. Thus, I am attempting to reach MY age of reason, however that may happen.

For the final Hong Kong hurrah, my good friend Peter and I decided to host an Alice in Wonderland themed party. Of course, I had to dress as Alice and all of my friends dressed as the characters in (my Hong Kong) wonderland. Much like Alice, I have recently felt like I just woke up from a very strange and amazing dream that is very far away. But I will never forget my wonderland or all of the amazing characters and places in it, and I will definitely return one day!

Cavorting in Kuala Lumpur

2009-05-21T23:25:00.000-07:00

The first thing that comes into many people's minds when they hear the words "Kuala Lumpur" is Catherine Zeta Jones swinging on the bridge of the stunning Petronas towers. And in fact, the Petronas towers are quite astoundingly elegant in their jagged, elegant way.

Yet there is much more to this city than amazing architecture. The first thing you notice upon stepping off the plane is the staggering heat. This heat is not a humid heat like Hong Kong, just an overwhelming feeling. Definitely a tropical city, although it would do well to employ less concrete in its infrastructure, as that is what traps in the heat and creates an often stifling sensation. Hong Kong uses a lot of concrete too, of course, but the buildings are often made of other, more porous materials that make it more bearable, not to mention, a much more attractive city.

The first day I dared to take a taxi to the Batu Caves. I say "dared" because the taxi drivers in KL are notorious, and for good reason--they constantly cheat you and take you for rides. Anyways, I found a rather amiable taxi driver from Indonesia who taught me some of the local lingo on the way to the Hindu shrine. The Batu Caves is a limestone hill surrounded by Hindu temples, and the site is one of the most popular Hindu shrines outside India. Upon arrival, I stepped into the temple on the bottom of the hill and was beckoned by the Hindu priest. Being the only non-Indian person in the place, I sheepishly approached him, and surprisingly, he blessed me and put white paint on my forehead. After taking some pictures, I began the ascent up the 200+steps to the actual cave, keeping a watchful eye on the mischievious monkeys perched alongside. Indeed, I will never forget the time I was in India and a monkey snatched my magnolia necklace right off my neck!

Upon reaching the top of the stairs, I was taken aback at the sheer size of the cave, with its massive drooping stalactites and holes in the ceiling--I swear it was something straight out of Planet Earth. I walked inside the cave a little bit, and turned a corner to find a beautiful sight-- the sun shining down brilliantly into the cave, with last night's glistening rain dripping down like a shining curtain. It would have made a nice romantic kiss scene in Indiana Jones.

That night my travelbuddy and exroommate Maxine went down to the Central Market to take a look at the local wares and textiles. Unfortunately, there wasn't a whole lot of novelty in that seeing as we live in Asia, and a lot of stuff seems to be made in China and exported everywhere! All was not lost, however, as we found a delicious local Indian place next door and I chowed down some amazing naan and tandoori chicken. After walking through Chinatown, we freshened up at the hotel and went out for a few drinks. We ended up at Zook, a very trendy nightclub chain which we had already sampled and liked in Singapore. After chatting to some Malay Chinese in my broken Cantonese, we went upstairs and were offered some champagne. All in a day's work!

The next day we decided to try the "other" side of KL--the colonial side--by taking high tea at the old governor's residence. Set atop a mountain (of course), the house was a breathtaking alabastar building with verandas galore. They had wicker furniture and even a harp with a harpist playing darling! After careful deliberation, we ordered a black tea and a white tea with our set. Our set was delightful and included rhubarb crumble, scones, egg sandwiches and more. Ahh the life of a colonial!

Unfortunately, the pleasant side of the KL story ends there, as about halfway during the tea I felt ill and returned to the hotel. Turns out I got food poisoned from the hotel breakfast! I am still recovering today :( Anyways, I would recommend KL over Singapore as far as Malaysian cities go, as it has a little more spice and culture, not to mention less rules and sterility!

Funky Style Full Moon Party (Thailand)

2009-04-22T23:07:00.000-07:00

Ever since I started to appreciate techno-electro music in high school with the help of my German/Portuguese/Eurotrash friends, I have heard about the Full Moon Party held monthly in Thailand. Indeed, it is often compared to the debauchery that descends upon Ibiza during their parties, although it is more exotic, and therefore, kind of cooler in my book...

Having been to Phuket and Bangkok as a young child with my parents, traveling to Thailand was not on the top of my list of destinations, however. Thus, I put it off, and traveled to perhaps equally extraordinary sites in Asia these past two years. Then, about 6 months ago, an old friend of mine from Penn who I had kept in touch with told me she was moving to Thailand to teach. We excitedly assured one another that we would come see each other somehow/somewhere--being only 3 hours apart, after all, we had no excuse!

About a month ago, she finished teaching and started to plan her little backpacking tour around southeast Asia, and we decided we would meet in the small islands of Koh Samui, Koh Phangnan and Koh Tao to have a fabulous, funky reunion at the Full Moon Party at the beginning of April.

Now that the introduction is over, I can begin my journey:

Having arrived in the evening in Koh Samui (the only airport on these islands), the adventure began--I had to find a way to Koh Phangnan, the next island over, during the middle of a rainstorm. Armed with nothing but my backpack and some cash, I gathered my wits about me and recruited some wayward travelers to share the cost of a speedboat over. The 25 minute boatride was one of the longest of my life! The boat was all over the place amidst the Perfect Storm style waves, and I thought how lucky it was that my mom didn't know I was there hahaha she sure would not have approved.

Once on Koh Phangnan, I became engulfed in swarms of young backpackers frolicking around the town barefoot. Making my way through them, I got on a jalopy type taxi vehicle and made it to my lodgings--a charming bungalow hideaway on the water by the name of Green Peace Bungalow. I don't think I have ever been happier to see someone in my whole life! We celebrated our reunion by having some drinks and dancing on the beach in the rain. We didn't feel a drop.

To my great disappointment, the rain persisted through the following day, with us managing to squeeze in a wet elephant ride with some grumpy elephants (not recommended). We then enjoyed some delicious local street fare before preparing for the big night. Through her travels, Juliet had met many like minded young adventurers who we met up with to paint our bodies in bright swirls and patterns. Around midnight, we were ready to go, and so were all 15,000 people on that beach. What a night.

The next day around noon, we sluggishly ventured to Koh Tao, a small, quiet island to the north. Koh Tao provided a welcome respite from the chaos of Full Moon, from the calmness of the waters to the hammock at our bungalow to the pounding Thai massages that we received. After a quiet night's sleep, we had a leisurely meal of spicy Thai food (YUM) and proceeded back to Koh Samui for my last night.

Koh Samui was definitely the most commercial of the islands, despite the popularity of Koh Phangnan's Full Moon Party. Of course, it is not on the level of Phuket or Bali in terms of grotesque tourist trap gimmicks, and thus we could still enjoy a lush Thai dinner at low cost and drinks at some local clubs.

As I woke up the final morning to return and rested in the tropical airport surrounded by lush vegetation and poignant bird calls, I couldn't help but wish that I was staying just a little bit longer in this remote part of the world. But then again, vacations are always too short...

KOH PHANGNAN

Full Moon Party (KOH PHANGNAN)

KOH TAO

KOH SAMUI (Last night)

Off the Beaten (Tourist) Map

2009-04-05T21:52:00.000-07:00

As I near the end of my stay here in Hong Kong, I find myself seeking out the remote sites located off the beaten (tourist/foreigner) map. Thus I found myself traveling to east Kowloon (on the mainland side, where foreigners hardly go as they live on HK Island) to see a small, remote fishing village centuries old. Appropriately named Lei Shuk Mun, or Coi (that Japanese fish) Village, it was full of big surprises. Apparently, I was one of the biggest surprises, being a Westerner in a remote village, and there were a lot of stares (much more than normal in HK, which says something!). I also saw a lot of deliciously enormous seafood fortune tellers and quaint tin houses in the village. Enjoy the pictures below!

The village/market entrance

The Seafood market--or something out of a sci fi novel??

Along the waterfront-some charms and funny signs

The Chinese fortune teller's seaside abode

The Wishing Tree

Hong Kong-A Gastronomist's Paradise

2009-03-04T23:12:00.000-08:00

It never ceases to amaze me when foreigners come to Hong Kong and approach local fare skittishly. The fear of food poisoning is relevant and real, though no matter what kind of place you go to, here or in the West, you can get sick. In fact, the only time I have gotten really ill here was when I ate at a really nice dim sum place (granted, I ate chicken feet, which was VILE, but at least I tried it!). I understand the concept of "comfort food," and wanting to enjoy the food that you know and love, but the whole point of visiting Hong Kong, which is so far away from home, is to go beyond your comfort zone. Come on, people!

That is why I have been so pleased with the adventurous attitudes of all of my friends who have visited me here in HK (Eileen, Megan, Lara, Corinne, Shane, Christian, Danielle, Santiago, and Chidiogo). They were all too eager to get their hands (and stomachs?) dirty, immersed in the delicacies that Asia has to offer. The most adventurous guest to date, perhaps, was my brother, Shane. He not only wanted to eat a lot (his goal was to gain 10 lbs, or so he said), he wanted to eat the most outrageous things. Hence, he even tried pigeon, which even I have not dared try. Flying rats? Not unless I'm starving!

Hong Kong is truly a gastronomist's paradise (Check out this link for a personal account of Hong Kong food:
http://www.gourmet.com/magazine/2000s/2008/12/hong-kong-memoir). In fact, Hong Kong offers so much amazing exotic foods at such low prices, it's almost blasphemous to dine at a Western style restaurant, where the food is often mediocre and the prices exorbitant. Why not try Cantonese egg custard buns, Sichuan style spicy noodles, Shanghainese pork dumplings, or Beijing duck instead? Or, if you prefer south/southeast Asian foods, you can find delicious Vietnamese Pho, Thai Tom Yum Gai (coconut soup) or Indian curry. For the latter, you must venture to the notorious Chung King Mansions in Tsim Sha Tsui, where the place is so authentic that you almost feel like you are in a foreign country.

So come to Hong Kong--if not for me, then for the food!

Shanghainese pork dumplings

Spicy Noodles

Cantonese egg custard buns (dim sum)

Us enjoying dim sum

Beijing Duck

Us enjoying Beijing duck

Christmas in Cebu

2009-01-04T20:33:00.000-08:00

Who would have thought that Christmas in Cebu, Philippines, would be so religious? When I booked my 4 day weekend getaway to this tropical city in the heart of the Central Visayas, Philippines, I certainly didn't expect it to be so marked by the religious celebration of Christmas. Then again, I should have known, as the famous Spanish ships of Magellan landed in Cebu almost 500 years ago, on April 14, 1521. A cross marks the spot where he landed and died shortly thereafter at the hands of the native chieftan Lapu Lapu.

Indeed, when we walked through the sprawling, incongruous city of Cebu, we encountered many people lighting candles and singing hymns outside and inside of massive churches and cathedrals. Even near our hotel, on the small, poor island of Mactan, the locals would call out Merry Christmas to us on Christmas day as well as a few days thereafter. Only the Koreans, who have taken over many of the businesses in and around Cebu, did not seem to be consumed by this religious fervor.

Besides this interesting cultural discovery, we spent our time eating much of the local food (basically grilled meat and seafood), laying out on the beach (small and relatively unimpressive as it was), and getting $3 massages. Yes, you read that right--the cheapest massages ever! You better believe we had more than one!

Overall, I had a delightful trip with two of my ABC (American born Chinese) friends. Just as in Boracay, Philippines, the locals were exceedingly polite and helpful when they weren't trying to cheat us--they thought I was a rich Westerner, as people in Asia tend to think all Westerners are rich, and they thought my friends were Korean. The beach in Boracay was much more beautiful though, and I recommend it more highly if that is what you are looking for.

Hope everyone had as interesting and fun of a Christmas as I had!!

The Token..White Girl?

2008-12-19T01:00:00.000-08:00

With the exception of India, I have never lived in a place where I wasn't in the majority in terms of race. Of course, I never really considered this an issue, positive or negative. I traveled all around and became friends with people from many different socioeconomic backgrounds. I considered myself well versed in cultural/social/racial differences. That is, until I moved to HK, where I am definitely not in the majority.

Before arriving, I thought I knew what to expect, in terms of the fact that Asians look different from me. But the reality was so much more nuanced, as I came to learn rather quickly. For example, people would stare at me quite a lot. The men would never call out to me or anything-just stare. Particularly if I stood on the MTR (subway) in a low cut top. This is a fashion no no among locals--lots of leg is normal, but cleavage is a HUGE deal (no pun intended). This "cleavage" issue even came up in the school I was working in, as my colleagues would freak out if so much as a bra strap was showing. I don't think this had anything to do with the fact that it was a religious elementary school, either.

My height has also definitely been an issue here. As many of you may know, my students used to constantly ask me, "Ms. Murray, why are you so tall?" The most iconic example of this height wonder manifested itself in a classic essay a student wrote about me whereby he claimed that "Ms. Murray is very tall--perhaps as tall as a door!" Not for the first time, I also became the all around representative for and expert on the subject of Westerners, with my colleagues asking me all about Western culture, from the matter of elections to men in America.

One of the first times I truly felt like the token white person, however, was when I went on my trip to Vietnam last Christmas. 4 western girls and I embarked on an epic journey across China to get to Vietnam. We were the only white people on the trains, and Chinese locals often stopped in front of our cabin and just loitered, staring at these curious Westerners in their mist. When we were almost in Vietnam, we started playing Choi Dai Di, a Chinese game that is quite like poker, and some of the locals joined us. This was funny in itself, as of course there was no verbal communication involved, but the best part was that we were playing with these giant joke cards that one of my friends had bought at the market, and the locals just couldn't get over them--they thought that all us "big" Westerners must use these "big" joke cards!! There we were again, being the token white people!

When I started dating Zeno, I became even more acutely aware of the token white girl phenomenon, as Chinese men rarely date Western girls. Unknowingly, we became an item just by walking down the street. When I started attending his basketball games, I was always the only foreigner there, almost like the mascot for his team! I also became a bit insecure, thinking that I was just a trophy on his arm--did he really find me attractive or was I just a white girl on his arm? I have come to terms with this at this point, and am happy to be on his arm at any occasion :)

Zeno's birthday with the bball boys

Like last year, I am the only Westerner at work, but unlike last year, I don't have all my British/American/Canadian Chatteris colleagues as a support network, so it's a bit different. Recently, I have been involved in organizing Christmas decorations and parties for the tenants living in the building I work in. As usual it seems, I was the token white girl, so as usual, I was the MC at all the events:

After having worked and lived in all Chinese environments the past two years, I realize that no matter what I do, no matter how hard I try to speak the language or "fit in," it is impossible. I will always be a sheep in lamb's clothes here. While it's been interesting being the token white girl the past two years, I must admit being the minority is definitely overrated at times...hahahaha

My friend and I in traditional Hakka women gear

I shook my little touche on the catwalk...

2008-11-27T22:43:00.000-08:00

A friend of my colleague is an amateur photographer who has hardly taken pictures of white people, thus I had the honor of being his model for an afternoon, along with Zeno.

You may recall the entry I wrote about a year ago about camping in November? We used the same beach and surrounding area to take pictures. We also took some shots on the ferry journey there and back. My sister oh so delicately made fun of them, saying the pictures were "so Asian" and "such wedding photos." Regardless, we had fun being silly on the sands of Hong Kong that day...Enjoy!

Gwai Mui in the Green OR White Girl in HK's Great Outdoors

2008-11-23T20:56:00.000-08:00

Of late, my interest in Hong Kong has become quite focused in the greener parts of this great city. As I mentioned in the last entry, although Hong Kong is famous for its bright lights, exotic food and cosmopolitan lifestyle, there is so much more to this dynamic place that I have called home for the last two years.

In fact, 2 weeks ago my boyfriend Zeno took me to a favorite spot of his childhood, the so called "Monkey Hill." He told me of this romantic place in the hills with a glimmer in his eye and a glistening smile.

While the park, including the resovoir indeed painted a beautifully pastoral scene, the monkeys were far from sweet--one of them jumped on Zeno's arm to get his water bottle! Unfortunately, the years of people feeding them have corrupted their innocence, and they are now rather aggressive animals. Zeno and I armed ourselves with sticks and made our way through the wild on that beautiful day in November...

UNESCO found something in HK...

2008-11-03T01:00:00.001-08:00

Despite the glitz and glam that everyone loves about Hong Kong, sometimes it's nice to delve into the few cultural hotspots that the city has to offer.

King Law Ka Shuk is one such place--an ancestral hall adedicated to the ancient Tang Family. It was later a study hall using the Bok Bok Chai traditional Chinese teaching meathod, and was built during the Ming dynasty. Recently renovated by the local authorities, it looks as good as new. In fact, UNESCO has lauded the reconstruction and awarded it several worthy international prizes. Enjoy my pictures below!

Taipa--the Other Other Macau

2008-10-02T20:05:00.000-07:00

One of the oldest colonial spots in the Orient was Macau. Starting in the 16th century, the Portuguese administered Macau for almost 450 years. From relatively humble beginnings, Macau blossomed into a major trading port and stopoff. Then, when the Portuguese formally returned the city to China in 1999, it went on to become one of the world's leading gambling spots. Indeed, its famous Venetian Casino and Resort Hotel offers a 550,000-square-foot casino three times larger than Las Vegas' biggest. According to a Smithsonian article I recently read, by 2012, Macau casinos are projected to outstrip the revenues of Atlantic City and the state of Nevada combined. With a population of just 531,000, Macau now has a GDP of more than $36,000 per capita, making it the wealthiest city in Asia and the 20th-richest economy in the world.

But Macau is so much more than casinos. Well, perhaps I should say that at least the small islands of Taipa and Coloane, located just south of Macau, are more than just casinos. Having only been infiltrated by the Portuguese in 1851 combined with the fact that it is a tiny island that is literally isolated, it has retained an essence of old world charm. While the dominating influence of casinos and show business is hard to escape when you are this close to Macau, there seems to be more of an effort on these islands to cherish the historical past, both Portuguese and Chinese. Ancient temples as well as colonial buildings are meticulously preserved and exhibited to the public. Many of its residents relish Portuguese and Chinese foods, and the restaurants cater to all kinds of combinations thereof.

For the first time since leaving Portugal, I really got the feeling that I was walking around an old village, replete with pasteis de nata, tiled walls, rusty street lanterns, and even a grotto dedicated to Luis de Camoes, the famous poet who wrote an epic tale of Vasco da Gama's explorations of the East.

Please enjoy my pictures below:

The "Ancient Greek God" Casino...words cannot convey the tackiness..

The Luis de Camoes grotto/park

The ruins of St Paul's

Treasure Island!

2008-09-12T19:06:00.000-07:00

The typical postcard from Hong Kong showcases the amazing Hong Kong Island Skyline, and the view looks down from the top of the highest mountain on the Island, appropriately titled "The Peak." What most people don't know is that Hong Kong Island, where most people live and all the businesses thrive, is one of over 260 islands in the South China Sea. Lantau Island, due west of Hong Kong Island, is the largest, home to both the Hong Kong International Airport and Disneyland. To the southwest of Hong Kong Island is Lamma Island,one of the smallest with a little hippy colony (I included pictures in an entry last year).

Most recently I had the pleasure of visiting Cheung Chau Island, which is famous for being a pirate haven and treasure trove. In fact, Hong Kong waters were always attractive to pirates due to the volume of trade, as anyone who has read Taipan by James Clavell is well aware. The most famous pirate was Cheung Po-Tsai, who ruled the seas for over a decade in the early 19th century. At his height, he commanded a fleet of 12,000 junk boats and over 50,000 men. He stored treasure in caves on small islands such as Cheung Chau. In 1809, there was a famous battle between this pirate fleet and the Portuguese, which led to negotiations and eventually the surrender of the pirates with impunity.

Apart from taking a peek at the pirate's treasure cave (which we found without the help of a map with an "x" marking the spot...), my boyfriend and I had a pleasant afternoon walking around this charming island, with its rugged coastline, mystical shore and local people. Please enjoy my pictures below:

Arriving in the harbor

Confused boy in a rickshaw

Elaborate sign celebrating the Chinese Olympic wins

Inspecting the local seafood wares

Shrimp out to dry in the afternoon sunshine

Village Square of sorts

Cute children

Reaping my incense blessings

Bright midafternoon illumination

Off season Dragon boat

Land, ho!

Enjoying the sights

Let me outta this place!!

Pirates of the Caribbean, eat this for location!

Sunset over Treasure Island...

Monkeying Around In Borneo & Bali

2008-07-30T12:25:00.000-07:00

Having experienced the serene, sterile, surreal scene of Japan, it seemed quite appropriate to make Malaysia the next stop on my Asian adventure, as it is Japan's opposite in many ways. Malaysia is an exotic jungle of chaotic cities and wildlife compared to the cookie cutter streets of Japan. Malaysia, with its Strait of Malacca, has a history rife with piracy, adventure, and Islam, while Japan comes from a more streamlined tradition of feudalism and Buddhism. In Malaysia, we spent two days climbing up Mt Kinabulu, one of the tallest mountains in SE Asia; in Japan we caught a glimpse of Mt Fuji out of the stylish window of our Shinkansen Bullet Train. You get the idea.

Our first stop was Kota Kinabulu, the capital of the region of Sabah on the Malaysian side of the island of Borneo. As you may or may not know, Borneo is the fourth largest island in the world, and is host to three countries including Malaysia, Indonesia, and Brunei. KK, as most people refer to it, is a rather unassuming city of many backgrounds--Malay, Indonesian, Filipino and Chinese. This makes for some very interesting markets, and we had some fun at the Filipino Market:

Odd sweet tasting local fruit

Fish Market & Sunset

Ironically, having never seen them in China, we got a chance to witness Sabah's Chinese Society's Annual Dragonboat Races:

Come to think of it, China seemed to follow us around--our tour guides to the Western Mangrove Wetlands were Chinese Malay! They showed us the indigenous Proboscis Monkey and glittering fireflies by sunset on a riverboat:

After a few days rest we headed down to the Hindu island of Bali, Indonesia, for a sunny respite from our wildlife adventures. I can think of worse things than frolicking amongst Aussie surfers on vacation...:)

We got back to nature upon our return to Malaysia, and climbed Mt Kinabulu with the help of an indigenous man who was our tour guide. We walked more than 6 km, we somehow we made it!

Big in Japan (Tokyo to be exact)

2008-07-09T12:45:00.000-07:00

After 5 fun filled days in Kansai area with Akemi, Megan and I boarded the Shinkansen bullet train to Tokyo. When they said that Superman was faster than a locomotive, I don't think they knew about the Shinkansen--damn it was fast! And the pride and joy of Japanese people.

Two sweet older Japanese ladies met us in Tokyo, thanks to Akemi's hyper planning skills. Exceedingly polite as Japanese tend to me, they were eager to please, and so were we. After some back and forth, we decided on a short itinerary that included the Imperial Palace, Kabuki Theater, Tokyo TV Tower, the Fish Market, Shibuya (Times Square/shopping), and Akihabara (electronics superstore). We were about to be inundated with kawaii-ness!

The Imperial Palace was massive but barely visible due to the greenery and the high gates, so it was rather disappointing. Kabuki Theater, on the other hand, was AWESOME! Who doesn't like watching a guy in drag, I mean seriously?! Hahaha Anyways this ancient theater prohibits female actors, so all the men dress in kimonos and the men dress as shoguns to put on quite a show. It's all very exaggerated, with a ton of makeup and hand gestures, ultimately making for hilarious entertainment.

Outside the theater

Just to give you a taste...

Tokyo TV Tower

Fish Market

Shibuya shopping area

I also had the pleasure of meeting up with an old Japanese friend from high school, who showed me around the funkier sides of Tokyo:

On my last morning, Satsuki surprised us by dressing us up in authentic kimonos--they were so beautiful, but definitely not made for tall women!! It took two hours to dress Megan and I up and do our hair, so of course we had to take a bijillion pictures. Here are a few:

Kawaii [Cute] Japan!

2008-07-09T09:46:00.000-07:00

To me, Japan has always been this beautiful place shrouded in mystery, lying across the ocean. It was perpetually inaccessible. Until I lived in Asia, that is.

Back in February I emailed this old friend of my mother's named Akemi. My mother knew her in Brazil, and even taught her some English (runs in the family I guess...) In any case, I corresponded with Akemi and we began to arrange for me to visit her in Japan. Japan was becoming more than just a dream destination.

On June 5, 2008, my friend from college, Megan, and I got on a flight to Kansai Airport in Osaka, Japan. Akemi and her husband, Shojiro, came and picked us up from the airport. They explained that they lived in Nishinomiya City, a "bedtown" which is a Japanese-English word roughly translating to suburb (people work in the bigger cities of Kyoto or Osaka and sleep in nearby "bedtowns"). Upon arriving at her house, I couldn't help but notice that she had labeled everything in the house with big letters so I wouldn't get confused by the Japanese! She also brought to our attention the high tech Japanese toilets with buttons determining the direction you wanted water to be sprayed (behind or bidet style)!

I quickly realized that Japan is not only extremely high tech (with no natural resources to speak of, technology is their only real money maker), it has a very specific aesthetic. This aesthetic is encompassed by the word "kawaii" which means "small and cute." Everything in Japan was kawaii!!! See for yourself in the pictures taken while I was out and about in the Kansai area (Kyoto, Osaka, Nara):

Cactus arrangements ready to buy

Decorated store fronts

Ubiquitous Hello Kitty

Of course, it is also impossible to overstate the prevalence of and reverence for historical Japan. Hello Kittys notwithstanding, Japan is teeming with temples and relics of its proud past:

Himeji Castle (shogun fortress) near Kobe

Shinto shrine atop fortress

Umm can you direct me to the suicide quarters of the fortress? Thanks!

Kawaii "spring flower" lunch atop Mt Kobe

Nimo-jo Castle in Kyoto

Ryoanji Zen Buddhist Rock Gardens

The Golden Pavilion w/traditional gardens

(Akemi & Shojiro)

Kiyomizudera in Kyoto

Sorry for the inconvenience of the construction *bow* !!

Todaiji Temple with deer(!) in Nara

Try Taipei On for Size

2008-07-09T08:19:00.000-07:00

I sincerely apologize for the lapse between my last entry and this one. The delay is inexcusable, but unfortunately, inescapable.

I have been very busy in the last few months, first in finding a job in HK for next year, and then in globetrotting, or I should say Asia trotting, after teaching ended in May. Needless to say, I have several entries in store for you with lots of goodies.

In the beginning of May, for the celebration of Buddha's Birthday (and the corresponding long weekend) I traveled to the political pariah known as Taiwan. As I stepped off the plane and started walking towards baggage claim, I was visually assaulted with government sponsored political posters advocating Taiwan's admission into the UN. The most vivid one I can remember had a whale suspended in a glass cup filled with water, saying something along the lines of drowning without political representation/recognition. Model United Nations debates and political science studies aside, I knew I wasn't in China.

At first glance, Taipei seems a lot like the Shanghai or some of the other major metropolises of China, but on a smaller (and cleaner) scale. The Japanese occupation's legacy is tangible in the architecture as well. And don't get me started on the food---oh my God it was all so good and eclectic! The night markets are famous for strange foods, and I tried a lot of things, though I stayed away from the snake being offered in snake alley--yuck!

After spending a night at a weird hip hop/rock infused club with tee shirt tearing contests (don't ask) we enjoyed a quiet respite up north at the fisherman's wharf, strolling along the boardwalk. Another day I spent many awe struck hours at the National Palace Museum, admiring works from China that Chang Kai Shek "stole" or "rescued" from Mao's forces in the late 1940s.

Overall it was a peaceful city-- quiet compared to the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong, and steeped in its very own, if very contentious, history.

National Palace Museum

Chicken hearts..mmmm

Snake Alley

Singapore Slinging!

2008-05-02T09:51:00.000-07:00

Do you know what may be called heaven on earth? With the risk of sounding like an alcoholic, I would say it is drinking a Singapore Sling at the sleek bar of the Raffles Hotel, or under an umbrella on the hot sands of Sentosa Island. Interesting how my choices both involve drinking and warm weather, which Singapore has plenty of.

Singapore is practically equatorial, and is thus graced with warm, if not hot and sticky, weather year round. Sir Raffles found this gem of an island on travels abroad, and accurately predicted its potential in terms of strategic importance for Britain. For one thing, the Strait of Malacca, the infamous narrow passage that merchant ships would have to traverse to get to the Spice Islands and the Dutch East Indies, is quite nearby. Yet this Strait was also seeping with marauders and pirates, so having a base on land was quite valuable. It was also the only British presence way out east, with the exception of Hong Kong, of course.

Indeed, many people like to compare Hong Kong to Singapore, so I will insert my own two cents here. Both are incredibly cosmopolitan cities, with Hong Kong having a much higher population density, but Singapore is more diverse, hands down. With a Little India, Arab Town and Chinatown amongst the mainly Malaysian population, it's quite a hybrid. Having said that, the authoritarian nature of the government also supresses the most mixed, or funkiest sides of town.

As one taxi driver informed me, strict fines are usually accompanied with canings of the highest order. When I looked shocked, he did not hesitate to show me a video of a man getting violently caned on his butt that was on his cell phone! I guess locals keep this kind of footage around to remind themselves not to get carried away!

The city was quite charming with its tropical trees, innovative architecture (which HK has surprisingly little of), lovely boat quays, delicious foods, fascinating temples, and sunny, albeit man made beaches. Yet somehow it seemed a bit sterile as well, a little artificial and a little too quiet. You can't even chew gum, you have to go to a pharmacy to get a similar substance if anything!

Ultimately, despite my enjoyment, I found myself glad to be back in Hong Kong, a magnificent city all its own.

Singapore Slinging!

Arab Quarter

Little India

Chinatown

Artsy Architecture

The Middle of the Middle Kingdom

2008-04-01T19:39:00.000-07:00

From March 25-28, my roommate from Hong Kong and I made an epic journey to Xian, the ancient capital of China, located in the center of China around 12 hours by train from Beijing. We took an overnight train there, stayed one night, and took an overnight train back. If you have never taken a train in China, then you haven't really lived--as my friend Peter puts it, you have to go into Mainland China mode, which involves pushing, shoving, and glaring your way onto the train. For a Communist country, it really is surprisingly every man for himself.

Xian was the capital of China for 13 dynasties, and is a truly ancient city. In fact, I visited the ancient village of Banpu, which existed over 6000 years ago, as well as the Terracotta Warriors, which were constructed by the first Emperor of China around 200 BC. He is considered the first Emperor because he united the warring states of ancient China under his rule, which became known as the Qin Dynasty. Being a bit of an ego maniac, as kings tend to be, he ordered a grand mausoleum built and a corresponding grand terracotta army to protect it. In total, 700,000 people spent 40 years building the tomb and the army. Needless to say, they do not disappoint!

I wanted to be part of the glory...

Xian is also responsible for the advent and proliferation of silk: around 5000 years ago, a woman discovered silk here and thus she provided the origins for the silk road to the west. Interestingly, since the silk road spread all the way to the Mediterranean, philosophies and religions such as Buddhism and Islam came to China by this means. As a consequence, Xian still retains a bustling Muslim quarter, and we got to see a beautiful hybrid Chinese/Muslim Mosque, as well as enjoy such delicious foods as lamb dumplings. We also visited a silk factory and witnessed the silk making process, which was entertaining albeit gross. I also enjoyed seeing traditional Chinese architecture inherent in the central Bell Tower and Big Goose Pagoda (we didn't bother with the Little Goose Pagoda for obvious reasons!).

Bell Tower

Big Goose Pagoda

The Chinese Great Mosque

Of course, we couldn't go to inner China without some cultural clashes. Hence, when my roommate and I went to a New York Times recommended bar, we spent about an hour trying to get gin and tonics, explaining, diagramming and describing what we wanted, before they brought out a can of tonic water and two shots of whisky. When I tried ot explain that whisky is NOT gin, the manager brought out a bottle of tequila. I gave up and we got beer.

Classic Chinglish

At that place and others, I was asked to pose in pictures with local people--for the first time in my life, I was a celebrity. I guess I better take my 15 minutes of fame when I can get it!!

Beijing: A City of Olympic Proportions

2008-04-01T18:49:00.000-07:00

From March 21-25, and then 28-29, I ventured into the capital of the Middle Kingdom for an Easter extravaganza.

When I got out of the airport, my first impression was that it was freezing and foggy. My second impression was that it was that in fact it wasn't foggy, it was just polluted; the sky was a yellow gray haze.

Beijing, a city of almost 20 million people, is sprawling, with wide avenues, stifling traffic, hutongs (quaint albeit dirty alleys lined with small houses and inner courtyards), remnants of an imperial past, reminders of a Communist present, and ubiquitous construction sites part of the Olympic preparation fervor.

Going in chronological order, it makes sense to talk about the famous beacons of the imperial past. On my first full day, I booked a "Secret Great Wall" tour, ie a tour to a part of the wall that on a positive note is not crawling with tourists, but on a more negative note, is quite delapidated and not as impressive. I spent about 1.5 hours hiking up the mountain with my friends form Hong Kong and a friend from Shanghai who is a fellow Penn alum, following our guide who was SEVENTY TWO years old! He was laughing at our amateur hiking skills. We got to the wall, walked along it in the frigid cold for about 2 hours and then hiked back down. I feel like I made a pilgrimage, but it was totally worth it!

The Great Trek...

Great Views

Great Wall Graffiti

On the following day, we walked through Tiananmen Square, which, by the way, is such a juxtaposition of old and new: the ancient square is flanked by Sino-Soviet Style architecture such as the People's Congress. The Forbidden City is as imposing as it seems, with 980 surviving buildings, 8,707 bays of rooms covering 720,000 square metres. Actually, I was most impressed with the Imperial Garden in the back, and I loved the Chinglish signs! We rewarded ourselves after the days of walking with a delicious dose of Beijing Duck for dinner.

The classic Tiananmen Sq image

In case you need a place to gather your thoughts in the Forbidden City...

Pictures just don't do it justice but I tried...

Speaking of anachronisms--I spotted a cute girl sporting a traditional Chinese hat

Beijing Duck *Homer style drool*

We needed a rest after all of that sightseeing, so the following day we just hit up the Temple of Heaven, which is quite a masterpiece of Chinese architecture, where the Emperor went to pray and make sacrifices. We did a bit of shopping and ended the night with a Mongolian hot pot dinner.

Temple of Heaven

Hot pot galore

Fast forward to present day Beijing happenings and culture: on Tuesday, we ventured into the 798 Art District, an industrial zone that has been converted into a series of art galleries displaying much of China's up and coming art. I was fascinated to find that a lot of the art was quite subversive and anti-Communist--a friend who lives in Beijing told me that Chinese art is becoming quite an industry and source of revenue, so the government probably turns a blind eye.

You want to talk about the pending Olympics? I could not walk for five minutes without a) seeing posters and billboards either displaying electronic countdowns to the Olympics down to the second or showing the cutesy multicolored panda-like mascots of the Olympics, affectionately named Fuwa, or b) get accosted by a local trying to sell my paraphenalia with Fuwa images. Granted, my hostel was right next to Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, so I should have expected it to be a bit of a tourist trap.

Then again, there are so few foreigners in Beijing, that the locals always assume you are a tourist. Despite this fact, and although the authorities constantly proclaim that they are ready for the games, I did not see any English signs or speak any English to local people besides at the tourist sites and at my hostel. My Western eyes were shocked to see children with slits in the back of their pants that serve the purpose of allowing them to do their business on the streets whenever they please. Unlike Hong Kong, where the authorities compulsively put up signs to prevent spitting, in Beijing, you have to watch where you are walking to avoid incoming incidents. The airport terminals are miles apart, and it took a bit of maneouvering to even find where to catch a bus from one point to the next. I hate to say it, and my teachers in Hong Kong were loath to hear it, but Beijing is not ready for the games.

From Tuesday to Thursday one friend from HK and I traveled to Xian before returning to Beijing on Friday. See the next blog entry for details on that side trip. We came back to Beijing for one last hurrah, and what a hurrah it was! My friend who lives in Beijing, who also went to Penn (I swear Penn is taking over the world!) took me to an unforgettable place for dinner. The restaurant was called the "Cultural Revolution Restaurant" and wow was it an eye opener! I walked in to see waiters clad in farm boy outfits, women clad in red guard outfits and pleated hair, and some of both genders dressed in green uniforms complete with the green hat and red star! As if that wasn't shocking enough, some of them were performing Communist era dances and songs before a backdrop of a huge Mao propaganda poster! When I sat down at the table (the only table of white people in the sea of red flag waving Beijingers) I asked someone if this was a joke, and she replied she really didn't think so...

Overall, it was an imposing city with an imposing past, present, and future...I'll reserve judgement on that until I see the games in August 2008...

Better Than A Fortune Cookie....

2008-03-12T19:04:00.000-07:00

When I lived in India as a child I had a nanny from Tibet. I distinctly remember her telling me that when she was a child, she had her whole life spelled out to her by a Chinese fortuneteller. He/She told her that she would get married when she was 30, and lo and behold, she did.

How much are people influenced by what people tell them is their pending fate versus what actually is their fate? I'm using fate loosely in this context of course, as I stubbornly believe that people have free will, but I just don't know to what degree.

I had a chance to test fate myself by going to a Chinese fortune teller yesterday next to the famous Taoist, Buddihist & Confucian Wong Tai Sin Temple. Did you know that in China you can get a degree in fortune telling? Chinese fortune telling, or Zi Wei Dou Shu, is an ancient respected art that literally means the study of a person's life based on the movement and location of the Zi Wei Star and 100+ other stars at the specific time the person was born.

The Procedure:
1. I gave my fortuneteller my "Four Pillars of Destiny": the moment of my birth: year, month, day, and time.
2. Using Chinese astrology, the fortuneteller first determined my sign on the Natal Birth Chart or Mìng Pán. From this I learned that I was born in the year of the Rat, not the Ox as I had thought, as I was born on the cusp--the cut off date is February fourth every year.
3. The Chinese believe there are five elements, or Wu Xing, including Metal, Wood, Water, Fire and Earth (sorry for those Captain Planet fans out there, there is no "heart"!). A complete horoscope thus includes an animal and an element. The fortuneteller determined that I belong to the "water" class and that it was very strong.

The Results:
As a Water sign, he said I was not wealthy or a businesswoman. In a brief palm reading side note, he said the fact that my pinky was short confirmed this fate. Finally, he said I would be "famous" in my profession, but that I wouldn't be wealthy. So far so good :)

Since different years are associated with different elements (and animals of the zodiac) he foresaw varying fortunes for different years, although overall I am lucky. In Fire years, I would be wealthy. In Wood years, I would make a lot of progress. In Earth years, I would be powerful. In Water years, I would lose money, and in Gold years, I would regress. All of this is very vague, but it gets better.

Due to a combination of factors, the fortuneteller interpreted that my best years would be from 21-41. In those years, I would gain progress in work, power, honor, and good relationships. Then from 41-51 I would regress (menopause, children?), but from 51 onwards it would be good again.

Apparently, my best years for love are 2008 and 2009. I guess I better get crackin! He told me that although I wouldn't be wealthy, my husband would be as I have a high nose bridge. Face reading is an integral part of fortunetelling, and he said I was lucky based on my face. I guess there are worse things to hear :)

A Feng Shui analysis, the ancient Chinese art of arranging objects to create balance in one's life, was the final part of my session. Based on my Water sign, he said I could decorate my house in red, pink, blue, green or yellow, but that I must stay away from black and white. I must also place the pillow on my bed in the direction of east or south. When I told him that I was born in Brazil (the "south") he was pleased, taking this information as corroborating evidence. But I shouldn't get too cocky--I clearly also need porcelain horses to balance out my strong Water sign (porcelain represents Earth and horses represent Fire).

I am very intrigued by this prophecy, but as some of my more cynical friends said, let's hope he's not also in the porcelain horse industry...

Days That Will Last A Lifetime/Lara's Visit to HK

2008-03-02T02:41:00.000-08:00

My lovely little sis Lara came to visit me in Hong Kong from February 22nd to March first. It was one of these things where it seemed like she was here forever while simultaneously it seemed like such a short period of time passed. Needless to say we had an amazing time, and I miss her so much already.

I tried to fit into one week all of my favorite parts of Hong Kong, including the markets (goldfish, antiques and Stanley), the Chi Lin Nunnery, the fishing villages and beaches (Lamma Island), the food, and Macau, so you might have seen pictures similar to the ones you will find below in my earlier entries. However, I also took the opportunity to try out some new delicacies, such as the Horse Races and the famed Afternoon Tea at the Peninsula Hotel. Enjoy!

P.S. Sorry it has taken me so long to write an entry! HK life is all consuming (in a good way!). :)

Macao-Portugal Nostalgia & The A-Ma Fisherman's Temple

Afternoon Tea at the Peninsula Hotel

Lamma Island Paradise

A Night at the Races

Hong Kongers are OBSESSED with Japanese food...

My Little Reporters Club Field Trip to the Peak (Lara & I were chaperones)

Fun Filipino Stylin

2008-02-14T03:36:00.001-08:00

Imagine turquoise waters lapping at your feet.
Imagine prickly palms swaying overhead.
Imagine a soft sea breeze caressing your sun soaked body.
Imagine reggae beats wafting in the air.
Imagine an ice cold beer in your hand.

You don't need to imagine it if you are in the Philippines.

For my Chinese New Year holiday I managed to get myself a package (all you wayward old school travelers, don't roll your eyes at me) to the beautiful island of Boracay, in the center of the Philippines, about 2 hours by plane, bus and boat from Manila. Ordinarily, I like to rough it and neurotically plan every step of my vacations, but this time all I wanted was a few days of real rest and relaxation at a reasonable rate, so a friend and I booked 5 days at a lovely beach resort on the White Beach (that's its name, I'm not kidding) of Boracay.

Consistently nominated as one of the world's most beautiful beaches, the beach certainly did not disappoint. When we weren't splayed out on the sand, we were tropical bar hopping and people watching. Oh, and we spent a day on the boat fish watching too (aka snorkeling). We met quite a few random travelers, as Boracay is definitely a tourist spot, but I wouldn't exactly call it a tourist trap as it is not exorbitantly expensive and it manages to retain a lot of charm. Besides, the natives were so friendly! Even the constant echo of "Sunglasses MAAAAAAM" and "Massage MAAAAM" was not irritating. Most of the people we met were all smiles, despite the obvious poverty that they resided in. To my amazement, I learned that the native language lacks a word for depressed or unhappy,leading me to conclude one of two things:

1) They are in serious denial, or
2) Most people are truly happy, or at least content.

I'd like to think it was the latter. Hell, if I was surrounded by such natural wonder all of the time, I think I'd be damn happy!

The "Lust Caution" Birthday Bash

2008-02-09T02:47:00.000-08:00

"Lust Caution" is the latest movie by Ang Lee, Hong Kong's very own favorite native director. Unlike "Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon," this movie is the antithesis of Hollywood, focusing less on special effects and more on, you guessed it, characters and plot development. The film takes place in 1930s-1940s China, spanning the pre WWII era as well as WWII. It skillfully portrays the Hong Kong/Chinese resistance to the Japanese through the lives of 6 young people, complete with fabulous cheong sams or chip aos (Chinese dresses), mah jong games, and, naturally, romance, espionage and intrigue.

Seeing as I had a cheong sam tailor made here, not to mention that I love this movie, I decided to host a classy "Lust Caution" themed party. Indeed, my invitations read "Dress is 1940s Shanghai Style." I provided the sparkling wine, and my guests graciously provided some delicious delicacies. My dear friend Peter has a lovely apartment where we hosted the party, and it even came equipped with an oven (yes this is a HUGE deal in Hong Kong) so we even got some baked goods!

Enjoy some pictures from the fabulous party!

Market Mayhem

2008-01-25T00:45:00.000-08:00

I am of the firm belief that you can buy anything in Hong Kong. It may not be easy to find, and you may have to go to a specific shop or street specializing in that item, but you will find it eventually. For example, I remember when I first got here and needed to buy some mundane household item like a plug or an adaptor, and was promptly directed to the "electronics market." At first I thought this might be the name of a chain of electronics stores or something, but no: there is an actual street in Mongkok where they sell nothing else but electronic goods. This doesn't mean that you can't find electronics anywhere else in Hong Kong, but they probably won't be as good or as cheap. On the other hand, if you need something like light fixtures, you will be hard pressed to find them unless you go to one street in Wan Chai.

I suppose the assignment of certain trades to certain geographical locations is not unique to Hong Kong or China. In fact, you can find a "Blacksmith Street" or "Gold Street" or "Diamond Street" in other cities around the world. Yet in Hong Kong, I soon found out that there were specific markets and stalls for all kinds of random things--A Bird Market, A Goldfish Market, A Jade/Pearl Market, A Flower Market, An Antiques Market and generic clothes and food markets abound as well. The array of designer stores put New York to shame as well--I don't think there is an Armani Flower Shop on 5th Ave, do you? To give you a little taste of the array of goods available in distinct locals, I took some photos:

The Bird Market

The Goldfish Market

The Flower Market

The Cat Street Market (Antiques Market)

The Costumes Market

The Central Market (Typical Chinese Market)

The Designer's Market (It's huge in HK)

Angkor WHAT OR NAMCAM's Final Chapter

2008-01-06T02:41:00.000-08:00

From the classically Eurocentric point of view, the period from roughly about 400 AD to 1400 AD is known as The Middle Ages. This period encompasses the fall of the Roman empire to the beginnings of the Renaissance. Yet this view of history neglects the rise of advanced civilizations in other parts of the world; in Cambodia, in fact, this period saw the emergence of the largest temple complex in the world, namely Angkor Wat and other temples aforementioned.

Angkor Wat is THE largest temple in the world- the outer wall is 1025 by 802 m and 4.5 m high, and is surrounded by 30 m of open ground and a moat 190 m wide. It is everything the guidebooks (and archaeologal accounts) says it is and more. Built in the 12th century by King Suryavaraman II, it was originally a Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu, but later became Buddhist. Supposedly 50% of the slaves from Burma, Mongolia, Vietnam and Thailand died building it.

All the temples at Angkor face east except Angkor Wat, which faces west, the direction of the sunset, which symbolizes death. The different entrances to the main temple complex were meant for different people, so kings, nobles, military officials and animals came in different ways. The five towers are mountains surrouding the central tower, which is the Hindu Mt Meru. The King was buried inside the central tower. 6 libraries surround the main temple as well.

Please see below for pictures, though of course they don't really do it justice...