Kristina's African Safaris

Namibia, Land of Contrasts

2009-11-09T12:56:00.000-08:00

For Tom's 60th Birthday, I'm taking him to Namibia. Our itinerary looks like this:

19-Nov - Depart Seattle at 07:10am
20-Nov - Arrive Johannesburg at 05:05pm; Spend one night at the Intercontinental Airport Sun at the airport

21-Nov - Arrive Namibia; Spend one night at Olive Grove Guest House in Windhoek
22-Nov - Arrive at Kulala Desert Lodge for 2 nights
23 Nov - Balloon Safari over Sossusvlei Dunes
24-Nov - Spend one night at the Stiltz in Swakopmund; enjoy a desert tour
25-Nov - Arrive at Damaraland Camp for two nights in Damaraland

27-Nov - Arrive at Serra Cafema in Kunene for 2 nights

This is where the Himba people live. This Himba woman is putting a special cream of fat and ochre on her body, which gives them that beautiful and mystical red shine.

29-Nov - Arrive at Ongava Tented Camp, Etosha Pan, for two nights and at Little Ongava for one night

2-Dec - Arrive at Okonjima Camp for two nights and learn about their Cheetah Rescue program

4-Dec - Arrive at Hotel Heinitzburg in Windhoek

5-Dec - Arrive Johannesburg; drive to Madikwe for 5 nights at Jaci's Safari Lodge and Tree Camp
8-Dec - Celebrate Tom's 60th at Jaci's in style!
10-Dec - Depart J-burg at 9:05pm
11-Dec - Arrive back in Seattle

Bibi's Family Safari was a great success

2009-09-06T16:43:00.000-07:00

This was the most fabulous family safari I have ever had the pleasure to escort. They were all full of fun and in high spirits every day. Everyone was ready to go and explore. There was no whining, no complaints, only smiles, jokes and WOWs!

I think the best way to tell their story is to let them do it, so I asked:
What was your favourite activity?
Here are some answers.

1. I liked the game drives in the Masai Mara the best and being so close to the animals was very special.

See all the hippos in the Mara river behind us?

2. I thought the balloon ride was the most exciting and memorable event.

3. The balloon ride above the migration was my favorite! Seeing all the animals from above was just awesome!!! the landing was cool too.

4. We liked all the activities; it was such a nice variety. The balloon ride was special though.

5. My favourite activity was the game drives all over, but the very best was with the guides in Tanzania because we got to know them for a long period and they were so good at seeing the animals.

6. It’s too hard to pick just one favourite activity; everyday brought something new and exciting.

7. The Serengeti and the Masai Mara were my favourite game drives, but my one single favorite activity was our visit to the village, J’s Paradise at Lake Victoria. What an eye-opening experience and one I will never forget.

8. I enjoyed the visit to the Maasai village

9. Spending time with Sokoine at Ol Tukai.

10. Visiting the Maasai village school was a highlight!

11. Seeing Charles Bies working at his craft and seeing all the animals and watching elephants at Ol Tukai …

12. Sokoine learning to play Uno was special …. The Hot Air Balloon over the Mara … everything!
13. Visiting Charles Bies, the Makonde woodcarver was memorable.

14. Every day was amazing. The best day was when we saw the lions kill a zebra because it was a once in a lifetime thing to see with your own eyes.

15. Game drives in the Serengeti. Balloon ride. Everything! Visiting the villages was incredible.
16. Loved the drives: Serengeti with the lion kill (what a thrill)!

17. Mara drives with all the lions, cheetahs and the Mara River crossing of the wildebeests.

Escorting Reg & Shell's family to East Africa July 12 - Aug 5th, 2009

2009-07-05T20:21:00.000-07:00

Here’s the entire itinerary:

Sunday, July 12 - British Airways flight 52. Departing Seattle, Washington at 8:45 pm
Monday July 13 - Arrive London - Heathrow, England, UK at 2:00 pm
Stay at the Heathrow Marriott Hotel

Tuesday, July 14 -British Airways flight 65.
Departing London Heathrow, at 10:20 am and arriving Nairobi, Kenya at 8:55 pm.
Stay at the Tribe Hotel, Village Market in Nairobi.

Wednesday July 15 – Drive to Selenkay Conservancy. Amboseli Porini Camp, stay 2 nights.

Friday July 17 - Drive to Namanga border, a Ranger Safaris guide will meet us here and take us to the Mt. Meru Game Lodge in Arusha, Tanzania. Meet the group here.

Reg&Shell’s group

July 16, Day 1 – Thursday: Depart USA on Northwest Airlines/KLM
Overnight flight – to Europe!!

July 17, Day 2 - Friday: Arrive early morning in Amsterdam
Depart on KLM 569 / Northwest Airlines 8383
Depart Amsterdam 10:30am / Arrive Kilimanjaro 7:55pm (8hr 25min flight), local time
Overnight at Mount Meru Game Lodge, Arusha, Tanzania

July 18, Day 3 – Saturday: Full day safari in Arusha National Park with picnic lunch. Dinner and overnight at Mt. Meru Game Lodge; all meals

July 19-20, Day 4 & 5 – Sunday & Monday: 8:00am flight to Grumeti airfield in the Western Serengeti; 2 nights at The Mbalageti Serengeti Tented Camp, all meals

July 21 & 22, Days 6 & 7 – Tuesday & Wednesday: Game drive on route to Northern Serengeti; 2 nights at Migration Camp, fully inclusive of meals, local drinks and laundry

July 23, Day 8 - Thursday: Drive to Ngorongoro Crater via Olduvai Gorge (all day drive); 1 night at Ngorongoro Crater Sopa Lodge, all meals

July 24 & 25, Day 9 & 10 – Friday & Saturday: Game drive in the Ngorongoro Crater; drive to Lake Manyara; 2 nights at Lake Manyara Serena Safari Lodge, all meals

July 26, Day 11 - Sunday: Drive to the Namanga border with stop in Arusha for lunch, (4 hours including immigration) then 2 hours to Amboseli’s Ol Tukai Lodge, all meals

July 26-28, Day 11, 12 & 13 – Sunday, Monday & Tuesday: 3 nights at Ol Tukai Lodge, Amboseli, Kenya; game drives in Amboseli NP, all meals

July 29, Day 14 - Wednesday:
Early morning flight via Wilson airport, Nairobi to the OlKiombo airstrip, Masai Mara
July 29-31, Day 14, 15 & 16 – Wednesday, Thursday & Friday: 3 nights at the Mara Intrepids, Masai Mara, all meals

Reg&Shell’s group:
August 1, Day 17 - Saturday: 2Pm flight to Nairobi
Dinner at Pampas Grill Restaurant before your check-in at 7pm
Depart KLM 566 / Northwest 8566 at 10:10pm
August 2, Day 18 - Sunday: arrive Amsterdam at 5:30am

Tom & Kristina:
Saturday, August 1: Transfer to Naibor Camp for 3 nights. Pick up at OlKiombo at 2pm.

Tuesday, August 4 – Air Kenya flight from OlKiombo at 1400h, arrive Wilson at 1500.
High Tea with Kennedy and VAL
British Airways flight 64. Departing Nairobi, Kenya at 11:40 pm

Wednesday, August 5 - Arrive London - Heathrow, England, UK at 6:20 am.
British Airways flight 49: Depart London - Heathrow at 3:15 pm and arriving Seattle at 4:45 pm.

Wonderful Kenya

2009-06-25T09:52:00.000-07:00

It's early morning in the Chyulu Hills, where Campi Ya Kanzi is located between Amboseli and Tsavo National Parks. The full moon is still high in the sky, Kilimanjaro is already crystal clear in the far distance and who would stand there posing in front, but this lovely giraffe! What a picture perfect morning.

I've just returned from a conference in Kenya that included visiting 3 camps: Campi Ya Kanzi, SaSaab, north of Samburu National Park and Bateleur Camp in the Masai Mara, next to Kichwa Tembo, both operated by andBeyond.

This trip was an "eco-friendly" safari, learning more about sustainable tourism and philanthropy. Safari operators and individual camps are getting the message and learning from the pro who have always believed in this concept.

I was very impressed by what is being done to minimize the tourists footprints on the local environment and how the local people are involved with tourism to preserve their wildlife and cultures. It's a fine dance that involves everything and everyone. I can go on and on.

The time to go on safari is now. Tourism is way down and the local people depend on us to help them preserve their wildlife for our viewing pleasure. The deals are out there. I can make your dream trip come true, creating long lasting memories for you.

On the Road again

2009-06-04T14:50:00.000-07:00

I'm sorry about not blogging more often. Time seems to just fly.
It's time for another conference in Kenya. I will return on June 17.

28 new stamps in my passport

2009-04-17T14:20:00.000-07:00

Imagine getting 28 new stamps and visas in your passport in just one trip!!! Here’s how to do it.

1 & 2. First off, get on a plane bound for South Africa. When you arrive at OR Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg, South Africa, you will stay overnight here. The South African immigration officer will paste a visa into your passport (1) and then stamp it (2) for accuracy. Spend the night at an airport hotel.
3. The next day you depart South Africa and they stamp your passport out.
4. Next, you fly to Botswana and when you enter, you will get another stamp.
5. After a week or so here, when you depart Botswana they will stamp you out.
6. Then enter Namibia. You will get another stamp in.

Spend 3 days at Susuwe Island Lodge and then 3 days at the Ntwala Island Lodge in the Caprivi Strip.
When you transfer from Susuwe to Ntwala, although still in the Caprivi this is when it gets really interesting. If you can’t afford to charter a plane to fly the short distance across, you must do a road and boat transfer.

7. You depart Namibia at the Ngoma border and you get a stamp out.

8. Cross the Ngoma Bridge across the Chobe River and enter Botswana on the other side; here you get a stamp in.

9. From here, you drive to Kasane, about 45 minutes, where you stamp out of Botswana.

10. This where you board a small boat to Ntwala Island Lodge, but on the way you must stop at immigration and stamp back into Namibia at Impalila Island.

Spend 3 days at Ntwala Island Lodge.

11. To get to Zambia from here is really easy and takes only about 1-2 hours. You depart Namibia at Impalila Island and stamp out.

12. Enter Botswana at Kasane and stamp in.

13. Drive to Kazungula, 20 minutes, and stamp out of Botswana again.

14 & 15. Here you take a small boat across the confluence of the Chobe and Zambezi Rivers where 4 countries meet: Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. On the other side, when you enter Zambia, you must purchase a visa, which gets pasted into your passport; then it must get stamped to be valid.

Spend a week or more in Zambia, including a few days at Victoria Falls, the adventure capital of Africa.

16. If you want to see Victoria Falls from the Zimbabwe side while in Zambia, and I highly do recommend that you do this, then you’ll have to purchase a visa to enter Zim.

17 & 18. You will stamp out of Zam., stamp into Zim., see the Falls; then return to Zam.

19 & 20. If you didn’t get a multi-visa when you entered Zam., you have to purchase another visa, which will get stamped to make it official.

21. At the airport when you depart from Livingston, you will get a stamp out of Zambia.

22 -24. If you’re flying out of Vic. Falls airport in Zimbabwe, you will get another stamp into Zim. at the bridge and out again at the airport. Hopefully you purchased the multi entry visa when you visited the falls!! If not, you have to get another visa.

25 & 26. You then fly back to Jo-burg and you may get another visa for S. Africa, another stamp in.

27. Spend the night at a hotel and stamp out the next day.

28. When you arrive back in the US, the immigration officer will stamp you in and you’re home again.

What a trip!!!!

My advice is this: Get the extra pages right off the bat when you apply for a passport if you intend to travel to Africa!!!

Kristina is on safari again

2009-03-12T10:29:00.000-07:00

I will be on safari in Botswana, Namibia and Zambia for a month from March 13-April 13, 2009. This is an independent study tour and I'm taking Tom with me. I have studied the camps we're visiting by taking a specialist course and need to see them in order to choose the "right" camp for you when you can go on safari.

We will visit:
Deception Valley Lodge in the Central Kalahari Desert, Botswana
Xakanaxa Camp in the Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana
Kwando Kwara Camp in the Okavango Delta, Botswana
Kwando Lebala and Lagoon camps in the Linyanti Wetlands, Botswana
Susuwe and Ntwala Island Lodges in the Caprivi Strip, Namibia
Norman Carr’s Kapani & Kakuli camps in South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
Sausage Tree camp in the Lower Zambezi National Park, Zambia
Tongabezi Lodge at Victoria Falls in Zambia; Here we hope to see the Lunar Rainbow appear over the falls after dark on our last night in Africa.

In my absence, Bob Kerr at Travel House will look after you. If need anything while I'm gone, please call him at 206-248-0900 or 800-809-0154 his email is bob at travelhouse.com.

Sadly, SAS is leaving Seattle for the last time on July 31, 2009. There have been many changes to the schedule lately. Bob will contact you if there are any changes to your schedule while I'm gone.

If I have a chance I will publish updates while on safari.

Fly free between camps in Zambia

2009-03-03T09:03:00.000-08:00

Here's a really good deal!

Fly free between camps in Zambia
A collections of the top camps in Zambia’s premier destinations, the South Luangwa, Livingston and the Lower Zambezi have joined together to offer an unbeatable safari deal:

Stay a minimum of 10 days at any of their camps and fly free between them.
10-13 nights: fly free between any 2 destinations
14 plus nights: fly free between any 3 destinations
Choose from six company’s lodges and camps:

The Bushcamp Company
Chiawa Camp
Chongwe River Camp
Robin Pope Safaris
Norman Carr Safaris
Sausage Tree Camp

Applies to 2 people and 10 nights minimum
Does not apply for July, August & September
Book before March 31 2009
New bookings only

Call to book at 206-297-7179 or 877-297-7179
email me at Kristina.Trowbridge at gmail.com

Deals, Deals, Deals

2009-02-19T14:23:00.000-08:00

So Many Deals!
If you're not travelling now; you are missing out on all the deals. Everyday I get bombarded with deals to sell to you; I'm sure you get a lot of these deals yourself. I can sort it out for you, but I'm not going to spray you with it. You must contact me with a somewhat specific request and I will find a deal that is just right for you. I deal is not a deal, if it doesn't suit your needs and desires.

That being said, I have to pass this along: Hot off the press from Kenya.

A KENYA SPECIAL SAFARI
A 6 nights / 7 days high quality road safari visiting Selenkay Conservancy, Amboseli, Lake Elementeita, Lake Nakuru, Ol Kinyei Conservancy, Masai Mara.

*Departs every SUNDAY - Minimum 2 people*

This seven day safari combines 2 nights Selenkay/Amboseli Porini Camp Clik Here - for camp details, with walks and night game drive, game drive in Amboseli for viewing elephants close up, 2 nights at Sunbird Lodge Click Here - for details with walks along Lake Elementaita and a full day in Nakuru to see the flamingos which is also an excellent chance of seeing rhino and leopard. This is followed by 2 nights at Mara Porini Camp Click Here - for camp details, with walks plus night drive and game drive in the Maasai Mara, famous for lions, cheetahs and leopards.

Highlights:
Stay in the exclusive Porini Safari Camps in Selenkay and Ol Kinyei and the intimate Sunbird Lodge at Lake Elementaita
All game drives in 4x4 safari vehicles (not vans), with experienced driver-guides
Selenkay: walk with Maasai warriors to visit an authentic village, night game drive, exclusive wilderness area with no other tourist vehicles
Amboseli: views of Kilimanjaro, best place for viewing elephants at close range
Lake Nakuru: spectacular scenery, excellent for rhino and leopard, huge concentration of flamingo
Ol Kinyei Conservancy: one of the most scenic parts of the Mara eco-system with resident big cats
Masai Mara: the most famous wildlife reserve in Kenya, excellent for lion and cheetah
At Porini Camps all meals and drinks included as well as sundowners, night game drives and escorted walks

PRICE IS $2,195.00 per person

* SPECIAL OFFER PRICE MUST BE CONFIRMED BY FEBRUARY 28TH 2009*

PRICES include minivan road transfer to Selenkay Porini, Amboseli park fees and conservancy fees, Drive to Nairobi for lunch at Village Market, 4x4 road transfer for 2 nights at Sunbird Lodge, Lake Nakuru National Park in 4x4, conservancy and park fees included. 4x4 road transfer to Mara Porini camp arriving for lunch. 2 nights Mara Porini Camp, park fees and conservancy fees included. All game drives in 4x4 vehicles, full board and free mineral water, house wines, beer and soft drinks (Porini only). Flight Mara to Wilson.

International airfare is not included, travel insurance is extra, gratuities are at your discretion.

A long day at EWR

2009-02-10T18:40:00.000-08:00

I needed to be reminded by what the balloon Victory captain in the Masai Mara said when we had to abort the take-off: “It’s better to be on ground wishing you were up there, than to be up there wishing you were on the ground”.

Airports are no fun these days! I’m sitting at EWR, lovely Newark Liberty Airport waiting for the next flight from Seattle to arrive, so I can fly home. It’s a lovely Saturday morning in New York, cold and sunny. I’ve been here since 5:45 in the morning and now it’s still only 2pm. My morning flight was cancelled due to mechanical problems. The next available flight is at 6:15 pm, assuming it arrives on-time. So, I’m spending this lovely Saturday held captive in tiny Terminal A at EWR for over 12 hours. Not Fun!!!

I flew to New York to attend two Africa events in conjunction with the New York Times Travel Show at the Jacob Javits Convention Center. Both these events were outstanding and well worth coming to New York for. Both events were sponsored by APTA (www.apta.biz), the Association for Promotion of Tourism to Africa. There were many great speakers and discussion panels. I made some new connections and reconnected with some old friends. I stayed at Hotel Chandler, a cute little boutique hotel just 2 blocks from the Empire State Building. The beds are heavenly albeit the rooms are small and the bathrooms are tiny. This is New York, not Africa where a standard tent is larger!!!

However, flying has become an ordeal. Security is tight. I cannot recommend it J, but of course we have no choice but to fly. Security is tight. There are no amenities. People carry on huge bags and the overhead bins fill quickly. I just wish the terminals would be more comfortable and some sleeping areas were available. 12 hours is a long time when waiting. SeaTac Airport has been much improved, but Liberty is old and uncomfortable. There’s nothing to do, no internet café, no interesting shops and there are no good places to eat.

I’m happy to be safe and waiting 12 hours beats landing in the Hudson River.

Reporting from Kenya December 2008

2008-12-21T09:37:00.000-08:00

I'm just back from an educational trip to Kenya sponsored by the Kenya Tourist Board. I visited Joy's Camp in Saba National Park, then Saruni Camp in Samburu National Park. Saruni Samburu is actually spectacularly located on a mountain ridge in the Kalama Conservancy. This is the infinity pool looking north towards the Matthews Mountains.

I returned to Nairobi, where I visited the National Museum. It's newly re-opened after renovations and is definitely worth a visit. Soon the adjacent Snake Park will also re-open.

I can't resist a visit to the Animal Orphanage in the Nairobi National Park. Baby animals from all over Kenya are rescued and nursed back to health here, then released back if appropriate. This is little Mark, one of three 3-month old cheetah cubs that just arrived at the orphanage. He's purring wildly while licking my finger.

I did some shopping at the Kazuri Bead Factory and at Marula Studios in Karen district. I spent the night at the Nairobi Serena. The next morning I flew to Lake Naivasha, where I stayed at the Loldia House. From here it's a 2 hour drive to Lake Nakuru National Park. I saw lots of pelicans and White Rhino here, but very few flamingos. At Loldia House, I saw my first aardvark! This isn't the greatest picture and he quickly disappeared into his hole in the ground.

I spent 6 nights in the Masai Mara: 2 at Little Governors Camp, 2 at the Mara Explorer and 2 at the Royal Mara Safari Lodge.

It's been a lack of tourists in Kenya this year and the recession isn't helping. It's been great for the cats, however. I saw Honey's boys again. This time they killed a wildebeest and devoured it in about an hour. I also saw Shakira, named by the BBC Big Cat Diary last October, with her 3 five months old cubs.

Then I also saw another cheetah mom with 3 five weeks old cubs. I also saw 4 lions, 3 females and their king kill a zebra right in front of me.

It was a great learning experience for me again. I hope you can join me on one of my escorted safaris or call me to arrange a safari for you. If you have a few friends who like to travel with you, I'll be happy to escort your group.

November News from Fiji

2008-11-14T10:20:00.000-08:00

How time flies! I promised myself to blog often and keep you informed, but here I am again ... lagging behind. I apologize for that.

Since my return home after escorting my group to Kenya last August into September, I've been to Fiji in October on an educational tour with Sunspots International. In just 8 days, we inspected 22 hotels and small cruise ships. My pictures are posted at http://www.winwinvacations.com under Photo Albums.

This pictures is from the Yasawa Islands with the MV Mystique Princess from Blue Lagoon Cruises.

Please, remember that you can call on me for all your travel needs. I'm an African Safari Specialist, but I still know the world of travel anywhere.

Kristina Trowbridge, WinWin Vacations

206-297-7179 or 877-297-7179

Kristina.Trowbridge@gmail.com

Honey's Cubs

2008-10-03T19:51:00.000-07:00

I was in the Masai Mara escorting a group from Seattle for 5 days from Sept 4-9, 2008. I have to report that Honey’s three cubs are doing well. Honey is the cheetah followed by Jonathan Scott from the BBC series Big Cat Diary. Her history can be found on the BBC website here:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/bigcat/animals/cheetahs/slideshow.shtml?dataset=cheetah1&slide=1
We ran into Jonathan Scott at a river crossing in the Rhino Ridge area in the afternoon of Sept 6, not having seen a crossing. He wanted to know if we had spotted the three cheetahs. I immediately recognized him from the Big Cat Diary and inquired if they were Honey’s cubs. Indeed they were and he said they were in the area. We exchanged sorrow over little Toto. Jonathan admitted it was one of his weakest moments ever when little Toto went missing. He so wanted to help little Toto fight the baboons etc.

Jonathan had an idea where to find Honey’s cubs, so we followed him to a lone acacia tree and there ... resting in the shade, were the three cubs. Jonathan was alone in his Big Cat Diary vehicle, but I saw no cameras in his vehicle. There was a BBC Crew vehicle there also.

The cubs were resting peacefully and seemed very healthy. I could see a little baby fuzz still on their necks. I assume that they are just 2 months short of 3 years old now if they were about 10 months old when Honey died on February 17, 2007. They are tall, strong and gorgeous. My guide Melvin said that he’s seen them take down topies, even young wildebeest.

Two days later (September 8, 2008, on the way to look for a crossing (which we never did see), we found the cubs again, but this time they were 40 km away in the Burrungat Plains. Again, they were resting under a lone acacia tree; they were fidgety and s seemed to be hungry; they were on the lookout. There were no signs of Jonathan Scott or the BBC film crew this time.

Honey’s cubs were very interested in some gazelles over the ridge, but they were far away and kept walking away. Then they spotted a few wildies coming over a ridge on the other side followed by about 10 zebras. The wildies kept on dancing like they do and soon disappeared, but a dazzle of zebras kept coming closer. The cubs were intently staring their way.
I asked Melvin if they would go for a zebra and he thought not. But they were so interested. Would they? Soon Melvin was on the roof of the car and asked my husband jokingly to take the wheel. Are they going for the zebras???? They were certainly intently staring in that direction. Soon, they were stalking them. NO WAY!!!! That’s a big animal and these are cubs still, after all. My goodness! Incredible decision!

It didn’t take long. The grass was fairly tall as it has been raining in the Mara on and off this winter, so they were camouflaged enough, but we could still see their heads abouve the top of the straw.

It was noon when we found them and there were only about 5 vehicles around. The Mara was very empty. We never saw more than a few vehicles all day.
The zebras were unaware and kept coming. The dominant brother gave chase. It happened very fast. There was no time for pictures, but I followed the entire chase and the kill in my binoculars. My husband got some video. They let all the zebras pass; then they choose the third one from the end, a young female, but she was just about fully grown. It happened very fast. They are “killing machines” already, these cubs. AMAZING!!!! From all accounts, this was their first zebra. Melvin never imagined he would ever see this. A few more vehicles arrived after the kill, but not many. There were less than 10 at all times.

The cubs have established who the leader is; he did the strangling and called for the chase. When he ate, he would growl at his brothers to keep their distance, so they rested in the shade under the vehicles or played sentry. They took turns eating and guarding the carcass.
No lions or hyenas appeared. An hour later a few vultures arrived, but they sat in the two trees available. Soon the trees were full of vultures, but they waited patiently as they had the time … pole, pole! The cubs ate slowly, panting hard. After the kill it took almost an hour before the cubs really starting eating; not until the vultures started arriving did they get serious about eating. They were exhausted after the chase and it was hot in the sun. By three o’clock, the vultures flew down one by one and landed in back of the kill. The dominant brother chased them back a few times until he was done eating and left. The other brothers were still eating, but the vultures very slowly moved closer. Soon the second brother also left the kill and the vultures got bolder and chased off the last cub.

Within 20 minutes the bones were bare. It was now 4 o’clock and there was nothing left of this drama, but the bones. Even the vultures left. The afternoon vehicles started arriving as we were leaving around 4:30 pm. You snooze … you loose!!

I just can’t believe that I saw this. Unbelievable!!!

My husband has posted his video on his website. If you have Windows Media installed you can see it here: (It’s about 25 minutes long):
http://www.tomtrowbridge.com/2008/09_Kenya/Video/Video/17_CheetahKill_320.wmv

Kristina is back from Africa

2008-08-17T09:19:00.000-07:00

I'm back from an incredible learning trip to Africa. I flew into Nairobi on NW non-stop to Amsterdam then non-stop to NBO. This was the not-so-fun part, but the best schedule from Seattle, even though it takes 24 hours! There's no way around that. All flights are full these days and there's no legroom at all in coach. I think it borders on "criminal" with respect to how little space is allocated per person. I think almost everyone is willing to pay a little more for more space in coach. Upgrading to business class in not an option for me because of the cost. I'm talking $5,000.00 more and up!

Once, you get there it's worth it. The smell of Africa is fantastic. I feel like I'm home. Nairobi is a vibrant city and offers much to do. I always book an extra first night here to catch my breath and explore the city.

My favorite is a visit to the David Sheldrick's Elephant Orphanage. I always enjoy watching the baby ellies play: http://www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org/lifetrust.org/

I joined 5 other agents to visit Porini and Heritage camps and lodges with one night in each camp. This is exhausting and not recommended. I feel three nights in fewer places is the best way to discover Africa.

Then I flew to Zambia to join another group of agents and to visit all of the new Sanctuary camps just opened there. Sanctuary is owned by A&K. These camps are extra-ordinary.
I especially like the wildlife in South Luangwa NP where you will see Crawshay zebra and Thornicroft giraffe, not seen anywhere else. Of course, there are lots of hippos and crocs in the river and elephants can be seen swimming across in the early mornings after raiding the farmers' fields outside the park during the night: those naughty ellies!

I'm off to Kenya, escorting a group, on August 26, back on Sept 11. Come and see me at the Adventure Travel Expo in Seattle on Saturday Sept 13. I will be in the APTA booth education the visitors and promoting travel to Africa: www.apta.biz

Some news from the TSA: Starting Aug 16, 2008, U.S. airline passengers will not have to remove their laptops for airport security screening if they’re using an approved “checkpoint-friendly” laptop case. These new bags – which are on sale now – were designed to allow airport X-ray machines to see through them easily. Federal officials have issued guidelines for bag manufacturers to follow, but there’s no official seal that goes on approved bags, so you should ask questions you buy these bags to insure that they’re truly ready to go through airport X-ray machines. See http://www.tsa.gov/ for more information.

Kristina is travelling again

2008-07-14T12:54:00.000-07:00

I'm again travelling to Africa departing July 15 on NW Airlines via Amsterdam to Nairobi. I will attend a travel trade conference in Kenya and also visit Abercrombie and Kent's new camps in Zambia that have just opened.

I will be open for business again on August 6th. Then on August 26, I will return to Kenya again, escorting a group on safari.

While I'm in Africa, I will post to this blog whenever possible.

If you need help with travel while I'm gone, please contact Sharon Emerson at 206-367-7657 or email her at sharon@cruiseandtourplanners.com

Kristina is the Featured Travel Agent in the July newsletter for Ker & Downey, a USA based luxury custom Tour Operator to Africa, India and South America. click on the link or the picture to see the article.

Showtime in Kenya!

2008-07-07T13:52:00.000-07:00

It is wildebeest season again and the sounds fill the night air. - the migration has officially started! Concentrations of plains game under the acacia trees, mass together in preparation for one of the world’s greatest phenomena – the Great Migration.

The stage in the Mara is now set for the world's most fascinating wildlife spectacle: the migration is on its way from the Serengeti’s Endless Plains to the Masai Mara. The wildebeest are preceded by the zebra ‘chomping’ the longer grass in preparation for them.

A herd of almost 2,000 wildebeest have crossed the border from the Serengeti near Sand River gate, with a similar number crossing at Roots Crossing. This head of the southern migration is taking their traditional route towards Roan Hill, while others entered the central Mara plains via the western side of the hill.

The weather has played havoc with the traditional migration this year. Intermittent rain in April grassed the plains in green, which soon dried due to the dry spells in May and June. This dry and overgrown grass is now expected to slow the migration's movement northwards.

Looking into the Serengeti from the Sand River, herds of zebra and wildebeest on eastern and western sides of Naima-Lumbwa Hill can be seen heading northwards. The higher concentration is south of the Mara River and Sand River confluence, with the recently burnt area being the main attraction.

Kenya winters in the Mara are gentle affairs.

Airline charges have taken effect

2008-07-03T17:12:00.000-07:00

I will try to keep you updated on all the airline charges as best I can. They seem to change every day, adding more and more fees.

Here's what I know today:
United, USAirways and Delta are charging $25 if you call them on the phone to make a reservation; American charges $20; Alaska, Continental, Frontier, Hawaiian, JetBlue and Northwest charge $15; Southwest does not charge to talk to you.

These airlines will charge $15 for the 1st checked bag each way starting on Aug 18: American, United & USAirways

These airlines charge $25 for the 2nd checked bag each way: All except Southwest

Note: on domestic flights only for now. The fee does not apply to Elite members in their frequent fliers program.

Most airlines charge a fee for priority seats between $5-109.00; check with your airline at time of booking as this varies within one airline as well.

USAirways charge for everything onboard including water and softdrinks. Most airlines are charging from $5-10 for a snack onboard. Many don't accept cash, just creditcards for purchases onboard.

They also charge for oversized bags, overweight bags, curbside checkin and for traveling with pets and children traveling alone. These fees can be in the $100's of dollars.

Ticket change fees are now up to $150 on American, Continental, Hawaiian, United and USAirways.

I'll try to keep up, but it's a challenge.

From Water to Pans – A Report from Botswana

2008-07-01T20:58:00.000-07:00

From Water to Pans – A Report from Botswana
By Kristina Trowbridge, WinWin Vacations, May 2008
More pictures at http://www.kristinasafari.com/Albums/africa.htm

Botswana is about the glittering waters of the Okavango Delta,
that give birth and life to all creatures of the Kalahari.
Botswana is about the glittering stars above the Makgadikgadi Pans,
that shine vibrantly adding sparkles to the sky that totally engulf you there.
Botswana is home to the Bushmen with ancestries that go back millions of years.
Botswana is a well kept secret visited by only a few privileged souls.

I travelled to Botswana with my husband Tom on invitation by Ker & Downey on an educational safari.
I arrived in Maun tired from Indaba and travelling around Southern Africa for over 3 weeks hoping for a slower pace of safari. Imagine 2 nights at Okuti Camp, 3 nights with Unchartered Africa luxury camping and 3 nights at Jack’s! Okuti Camp did not disappoint.

Totally rebuilt from the bottom up with the most unusual tents anywhere it was indeed pure luxury. The Camp is located alongside the Moanachira River, as it flows into the Xakanaxa Lagoon, in the famous and beautiful Moremi Game Reserve. Located right on the water channel with a hippo trail below our deck, who could ask for anything more.
We choose the relaxing boat trip with Nelson on the Xakanaxa Lagoon as our first game drive and our first sundowner in Botswana. Here you see the most beautiful sunsets in all of Africa. Just amazing! The sky seems to be on fire, reflecting back from the lagoon like a mirror image. WOW!
After a scrumptious dinner and surprise entertainment by the staff around the campfire, we were ready to crash.

Moremi Game Reserve offers some of the most spectacular game viewing in Botswana.

Here we encountered this young bull in a trunk to trunk stand-off with our vehicle (yes, we have one too!), a pride of lions on the airport runway, a female leopard with 2 young cubs, grazing impalas and kudus, red lechwe running through the water, incredibly beautifully colored birds like the lilac-breasted roller and some extremely rare species of birds like the wattled crane and slaty egret.

A typical day at Okuti Camp offers morning and afternoon activities on land and water, with a packed lunch or returning to camp for lunch, then a siesta in the heat of the day and back out exploring again in the evening with a “sundowner” before returning for dinner. The evenings end with relaxing around the campfire watching the friendly staff singing and dancing, most definitely enjoying it as much as the guests they are entertaining.

It’s time to go camping … in style: And we’re off to adventure in the bush. Here we go! Nothing can stop us. Introducing Ralph and Kaelo - our incredibly knowledgeable guides from Uncharted Africa Safari Company. Uncharted Africa Safari Company was founded in 1993 by Ralph Bousfield in memory of his legendary (some say infamous) father, Jack Bousfield. I think Ralph is already legendary in his own right. Each mobile safari with Ralph is an experience and you can expect only the totally unexpected! Our first camp by the Xini Lagoon was our first surprise. Here we were surrounded by hippos and their songs, continuing all night like a dream come true. The tents are luxuriously appointed with real beds and pure white cotton sheets and feather bedding. All have bucket showers and a throne attached, which flushes the normal way. You couldn’t be more comfortable: enter the gourmet meals! These are coming from nowhere. The “kitchen” is just a few wooden boxes and a fire with some pots. Better food you cannot get even at the Ritz in Paris!!! Uncharted Africa Safari Co. is renowned for fresh tastes and original interpretations of classic dishes, many invented by Ralph’s mother or sister. All bread is baked daily on the coals in trunk ovens.

The highlight of our mobile safari in the Moremi Game Reserve was fly-camping on Xhobega Island. We spent all afternoon getting there on a double-decked boat, cruising through the papyrus on the Moanachira River. We stopped for lunch and a swim along the way at the Sand Bank.

After a sumptuous dinner in camp, Ralph took us out in the Xhobega Lagoon where he literally reached out and grabbed a baby crocodile (just like Steve Irwin). This was an experience I will never forget: hearing that baby croc cry out like they do, … and in person … well to me is indescribable. Ralph didn’t harm it in any way, but it just wouldn’t relax as we all had to pet it, of course. When Ralph released it back into the lagoon, it turned around to try to bite him, but Ralph was prepared for that, so the croc missed and swam away. I’m sorry, I didn’t bring my camera.

The next morning, we went back on the boat and caught a charter flight to Jack’s Camp in the Makgadikgadi Pans. The large pans of Makgadikgadi are the most visible remnants of a lake that was formed more than five million years ago. I found it be a vast wilderness of endless space and timelessness. This is where Jack Bousfield lived and raised his family. Ralph was the youngest child. He grew up trapping wildlife with his father, so he’s full of interesting information about just about everything in nature, which he constantly unravels for his guests like some madman from outer space. He talked faster than my brain could absorb it even though I concentrated, because I didn’t want to miss a word. Ralph stands 6 foot 2” and wears a lion mane around his head.

Here we got to experience a group of habituated Meerkats waking up and coming out of their burrows in the early morning. Oh, how I had longed for this moment! I was hoping that one would climb up on my head and use me for a look-out post, but today they were just sunning themselves before starting their foraging for breakfast. When they were warm, off they went, tail straight up, stopping to dig out what they could find to eat, like scorpions, frogs and lizards. As difficult as it was to leave them, they would forage for food for the rest of the day and we didn’t want to disturb them too long.

In the afternoon, we set out into the Makgadikgadi Pans on quad bikes. We rode those bikes into the sunset and disappeared into nowhere. I had no idea a place like this existed on earth. There’s absolutely nothing out there. The sky and the stars touched the ground and enveloped us like we were in a planetarium. It made me feel insignificant on earth, but still so privileged to be able to experience this. It puts your own life in perspective, makes you think; makes you appreciate all life, our earth and our roles to keep it pure and simple. As I was contemplating all this, Ralph again had a few surprises for us. I don’t want to spoil it for those of you who will follow, so I’m not going to say what the surprises are.

What would the Kalahari be without the San people or Bushmen as they themselves still prefer to be called? Ralph has an extremely close relationship with them and he understands their plight. He has arranged for clients staying at Jack’s or San’s Camps to have a walk with them for a few hours. Our leader was Cobra.

Cobra and his 3 young Bushmen taught us about their way of life, how they use the available plants as food and medicine, how they make fire, how they catch birds in a snare and how they dig up scorpions, and how the play games and have fun.
That evening, Ralph escorted us to the Brown Hyena den, where this 3 months old cub just emerged from hiding after sunset. Ralph wants to habituate the cubs to people as he has done with their mother, but for now we kept our distance to not stress them. It was such a privilege to be able to see one of these rare and elusive animals. Later, an aardwolf circled around the area and the mother hyena showed up after dark at which point two more cubs emerged from the den.
The next morning our safari came to an end with our flights back to Johannesburg.
This was an experience that few people will ever have.

United Airlines up the ante on checked luggage

2008-06-12T11:57:00.000-07:00

Following American Airline's lead earlier this year, United Airlines has announced two changes to its domestic checked-bag policy. The service fee to check one bag for domestic travel will be $15 each way, the second bag will cost you $25 each way and the fee to check three or more bags, overweight bags or items that require special handling will increase from $100 to $125 and from $200 to $250, depending on the item.
United said the changes apply to customers who purchase a ticket on or after June 13, for travel within the U.S. and to & from Canada, Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands on or after August 18. The $15 service fee does not apply to customers who are flying in United First or United Business or who have premier status with United or any Star Alliance airline. Details on United's checked bag policy are available at www.united.com/baggage

The airlines are blaming high fuel prices to pursue new revenue opportunities, but are afraid to raise the airfares, so instead they are adding surcharges, which amounts to the same thing at the end of the day (for the passenger). The airlines think they are continuing to offer competitive air fares trying to beat each other's lowest fares, thus only beating themselves into bankruptcy. I think it's time to re-regulate the airlines and the entire transportation system in the US, which includes air traffic control and train service for short distances.

United estimates that the new $15 service fee will bring them approximately $275 million a year. How are they going to collect this fee? Everyone will bring more luggage onboard and fill the overhead bins quickly. When those are full, where do the rest of the stuff go? Can you imagine the delays this will cause as the flight attendants will have to collect this fee and check the extra bags brought onboard. Will they charge for early boarding next?

For itineraries that include international flights (except Canada), checking a first and second bag will continue to be free for now, and the cost to check more than two bags or items that are overweight or require special handling varies by destination.

From Mala Mala

2008-05-17T04:16:00.000-07:00

Mala Mala lives up to its reputation of having the best game viewing in South Africa. This morning we saw 2 lion prides with cubs ranging from 2 - 11 months old and also the huge Roller Coaster male, who runs both prides, the Styx and the Eyrefield. Last afternoon, right before sunset we encountered about 300 Cape Buffalo going down to the Sand River to drink. It was an amazing scene that needs to be seen in person to appreciate it. We encountered Leopards too, but cheetah are best seen at Phinda. There we saw a mother with two tiny cubs.
Lukimbi is located in the southern part of Kruger NP. We flew from Phinda to there. The lodge is situated on the Crocodile River on a large concession with excellent game viewing, but nothing can compare to Sabi Sands with all the relaxed animals there.

Travelling in Namibia

2008-05-10T05:45:00.000-07:00

I have now been travelling in Namibia for a week and I can report how beautiful this country is. It's a geologist's dream for sure. The wilderness is being preserved here and it's not very populated due to the dry /harsh conditions for survival. The Himba people still do live in their ancient tradition and a visit to a village is unforgettable. The landscapes and scenery cannot be described. You will see ancient lakebeds called (salt)pans, magnificient sand dunes with colors from white to deep reds and many different shapes and hights. Except for Mali, this is the only place to see the desert elephants. They are smaller that the African ellies, with longer legs and trunks as they have to travel long distances to find water and reach high for something to eat. There are only about 300 left, but in Namibia they are well protected now. I was fortunate to see them 3 times and with two very tiny babies still fitting under their mommies' tummies. Also the springbok, black-faced impala and the gemsbok aka oryx. The waterholes aEtosha National Park are very busy and full of life.

The way to do this type of safari is to take a flying safari so you can see the contrasts from the air. You will see the pans, the mountains laying flat down from geological uplifts and the shifting sand dunes of course. They got 200 mililiters of rain this season compared to a normal 80, so the green contrasts are stunning. What an amazing experience! I wish I could publish pictures here right now, but I'm at an internet cafe, so it's not possible.

I'm on my way shortly to Phinda and Kruger National Park after the Indaba conference in Durban. I hope to have access soon again to post more.

Kristina is Travelling in Africa during May 2008

2008-04-30T14:08:00.000-07:00

I'm again travelling to Africa departing May 1st on NW Airlines via Amsterdam to Johannesburg. I will attend a travel trade conference in Durban, South Africa and visit Namibia, Botswana and South Africa. I will be open for business again on June 5th. While I'm in Africa, I will post to this blog whenever possible.

Here's my itinerary:
1-May dep SEA NW34 at 1:00pm
2-May dep AMS KL591 arrive JNB at 9:10pm
Stay at Aftonio Guest House in Johannesburg
3-May dep JNB SA76 at 1:20pm arrive Windhoek Namibia at 2:20pm, stay at The Elegant B&B, Windhoek
4-May fly on a small charter to Onguma Tented Camp, Etosha NP
5-May fly on to Okahirongo Elephant Lodge, Kaokoland
6-May fly on to Mowani Mountain Camp, Damaraland
7-May fly via Swakopmund to Wolvedans Dunes Lodge, NamibRand for 2 nights
9-May return to Windhoek, fly SA75 at 12:50pm to JNB and switch to BA6221 at 6pm arrive Durban at 7:10pm
Stay at Protea Umhlanga Hotel in Durban for 3 nights while attending the Indaba Travel Trade show
12-May Road Transfer from Durban to Phinda, Stay at Phinda Mountain Lodge
13-May Stay at CC Africa's Phinda Forest Lodge
14-May fly by charter flight from Phinda to Malelane and Transfer from Malelane to Lukimbi Lodge for 2 nights
16-May Road Transfer from Lukimbi to Mala Mala for 3 nights, Sabi Sands in Kruger NP
19-May Road Transfer from Mala Mala to Idube private concession, Sabi Sands, Kruger NP for 2 nights
21-May Road Transfer by Idube to Exeter Dulini private Lodge, CC Africa
22-May Road Transfer Dulini to Exeter River Lodge, CC Africa, Kruger NP
23-May fly back to Joburg via Federal Air at 1:30pm - arrive at 3pm, stay at Aftonio Guest House again, Tom departs Seattle NW 34 at 1pm
24-May Cullinan Diamond Mine tour; Stay at D'Oreale Grande Hotel with Tom
25-May depart JNB for Maun, Botswana on BP212 at 10:00 am, Stay at Ker & Downey's newly renovated Okuti Camp, Moremi GR, Okavango Delta for 2 nights
27-May embark for 3 nights on a Luxury Mobile Safari with Unchartered Africa Safari Company
30-May stay at Jack's Camp in the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans in the Kalahari for 3 nights
2-Jun fly back to Johannesburg from Maun and board KL592 at 11:30pm for Amsterdam
3-Jun arrive AMS and change to NW33 arrive SEA at 2:10pm, Arrive Home

U.S. Ambassador Encourages Resumption of Travel to Kenya

2008-04-30T12:12:00.000-07:00

The U.S. Ambassador to Kenya, Michael E. Ranneberger, has addressed an open letter to American travelers advising them to visit Kenya after the establishment of the new Grand Coalition government that followed post-election turmoil this past December.
“I can report that there have been positive developments that are opening up the economic climate and making Kenya once again the perfect locale for business and tourism," he wrote. "The country’s rival political camps reached a landmark power-sharing agreement on February 28, and Parliament acted quickly to codify this through a constitutional amendment. President Kibaki and the Honorable Raila Odinga—now prime minister—are working closely together to forge this new coalition of parties in a new spirit of goodwill and unity.”
Approximately 102,000 Americans visited Kenya in 2007.

Updates from the Friendly Skies

2008-04-30T10:42:00.000-07:00

American Airlines, including American Eagle will start charging $25.00 for that second checked bag on May 12. JetBlue is charging $20.00. United, US Airways, Continental, Air Canada, Delta and Northwest are already charging $25 for the second bag. Alaska & Horizon will start charging $25 this summer. Spirit Airlines charge $10 for each bag/no free bag at all. The airlines are raising fares also at the moment up to $110.00 roundtrip. Ticket change fees are also up from $100.00 to $150.00 and calling your airline will also cost you more from now on.

A new rule to compensate passengers who are denied boarding because of an oversell by the airlines goes into effect next month. If you are involuntarily bumped you will/should receive up to $400 if you are rescheduled to arrive at your destination within two hours of your original arrival time or four hours for international flights, and up to $800 if you are not rerouted within that time frame. Look for the airlines to redefine the definition of “denied boarding”.

The airline dilemma as I see it: 5 airlines, Aloha, ATA, Eos, Maxjet, Skybus and Nationwide (in South Africa) have gone out of business recently and mergers between the big ones, Delta & Northwest, United and Continental or USAir are looming, fuel costs are sky-rocketing, so expect higher prices and less space available in the crowded skies. The regional airlines are struggling too. With charges for snacks, earphones, alcoholic drinks, the second checked bag, preferable aisle and window seats, look for the airlines to start charging for early boarding to make sure your carry-ons find space in the overhead etc. This is annoying of course especially when getting less legroom, no pillows or blankets or magazines, but who said the airlines should not be allowed to make a profit? I want them to be profitable so they maintain their planes here at home and get us to our destination safely and with our checked luggage and on-time. What happened to the friendly skies? You tell me!

New Passport Rules Delayed

2008-04-01T12:55:00.000-07:00

ALL PERSONS traveling by air outside of the United States are required to present a passport or other valid travel document to enter or re-enter the United States.

LAND AND SEA TRAVEL
The following summarizes information available on the Department of Homeland Security’s website.

CURRENTLY: U.S. citizens need to present either (a) a passport, passport card (available in spring 2008), or WHTI-compliant document; or (b) a government-issued photo ID, such as a driver’s license, along with proof of citizenship, such as a birth certificate.
LATER:On June 1, 2009, the U.S. government will implement the full requirements of the land and sea phase of WHTI. The proposed rules require most U.S. citizens entering the United States at sea or land ports of entry to have a passport, passport card, or WHTI-compliant document.
Note: The passport requirement does NOT apply to U.S. citizens traveling to or returning directly from a U.S. territory.

U.S. PASSPORT AND WHTI COMPLIANT DOCUMENTS:
U.S. Passport: U.S. citizens may present a valid U.S. passport when traveling via air, land or sea between the U.S. and the aforementioned Western Hemisphere countries.

The Passport Card: U.S. citizens may begin applying in advance for this new, limited-use, wallet-size passport card beginning February 1, 2008. We expect cards will be available and mailed to applicants in spring 2008. When available it will only be valid for land and sea travel between the U.S. and Canada, Mexico, the Caribbean region, and Bermuda.

WHTI-Compliant Travel Documents for U.S. citizen travel via land or sea, as of January 31, 2008:

Trusted Traveler Cards (NEXUS, SENTRI, or FAST)
State Issued Enhanced Driver’s License (when available)
Enhanced Tribal Cards (when available)
U.S. Military Identification with Military Travel Orders
U.S. Merchant Mariner Document when traveling in conjunction with official maritime business
Native American Tribal Photo Identification Card
Form I-872 American Indian Card

For further information see U.S. Customs and Border protection.