2009 Mountaineering Season

Quick Update Before the Weekend

2009-11-13T20:32:00.004-09:00

Hello All,
Just wanted to post a quick update for the weekend.

Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 5 spaces
May 3- 23: 1 space - pending
May 10-30: FULL (waitlist)
May 17-June 6: FULL (waitlist)
May 24-June 13: FULL
May 31-June 20: 2 spaces*
June 7-June 27: 1 space - pending
June 14-July 4: 1 space
June 21-July 11: 1 space
Custom Dates Filling Fast!
All Dates Filling Fast!
*Special small group, 4 climbers, 2 guides,$6900 per person

We're getting action on Wilderness First Responder Courses, too! If you have a group of people who need to take the WFR or WFR Recertification/Challenge, please contact us soon to insure your spots for March.

Check in with us on Monday for details if your favorite date is full or nearly full.
Have a great weekend!
~Julia

2009 Operation Denali: National Geographic's Best Adventure

2009-11-13T04:43:00.014-09:00

Marc Hoffmeister, team leader of Operation Denali, was recently awarded Adventurer of the Year. This expedition had unique challenges with 4 of the 6 team members severely injured from the Iraq war. For example, Jon Kuniholm, who lost his arm to an IED, carried two extra prosthetic arms in case one broke. Matt Nyman, who lost his leg in a helicopter crash, hauled extra prosthetic legs in his sled. These guys prepared by taking an AMS mountaineering course in 2008 and made an inspiring video everyone should watch. Be warned, there are some graphic parts.

AMS took the responsibility of this expedition to heart and assigned senior Denali guide, Kirby Senden, plus two assistants, Todd Tumolo and Matt Montavon. Denali is hard for everyone; no one has ever said, "It was easy." And the mountain doesn't make concessions, period. That makes the success of this expedition that much more meaningful. Their story will be covered in National Geographic's Adventure magazine's Dec/Jan print edition and I urge you to vote for it in the Reader's Choice award.

Marc was also honored with the Alaska Governor's Veterans Advocacy Award, awarded to him on Wednesday, Veterans' Day.

Colby Coombs

Winter Storm Warning

2009-11-11T19:10:00.006-09:00

We finally got some snow!!
More is expected tonight. Here are some pics from the AMS compound.
The Veterans were able to hold their ceremony at the local VFW Post 3836 in spite of the storm. These are hardy people up here. http://ktna.org/2009/11/11/talkeetna-vfw-post-3836-honors-veterans/
http://ktna.org/2009/11/11/heavy-snow-cancels-most-events/
I got to test out my new snow tires.

Here is the update for the West Buttress:

Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 5 spaces
May 3- 23: 2 spaces
May 10-30: FULL
May 17-June 6: FULL
May 24-June 13: 1 space
May 31-June 20: 2 spaces*
June 7-June 27: 1 space
June 14-July 4: 1 space
June 21-July 11: 1 space
Custom Dates Filling Fast!
All Dates Filling Fast!
*Special small group, 4 climbers, 2 guides,$6900 per person

There are three spots with applications pending - spots are going fast!

Ciao,
Julia

A Little Snow & A Little Cold

2009-11-10T18:36:00.004-09:00

We have nearly 2" of snow on the ground here in T-town, and the temp was 3 degrees when I came to work this morning. It was a beautiful, sunny day! There is a winter storm warning in effect for tomorrow, cold and lots of snow, especially north of here. Nearly everyone here feels we are overdue for snow.

Here is the update from the AMS Office:

Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 5 spaces
May 3- 23: 3 spaces
May 10-30: FULL
May 17-June 6: FULL
May 24-June 13: 1 space
May 31-June 20: 2 spaces*
June 7-June 27: 1 space
June 14-July 4: 1 space
June 21-July 11: 1 space
Custom Dates Filling Fast!
All Dates Filling Fast!
*Special small group, 4 climbers, 2 guides,$6900 per person

We still have space on Mountaineering Courses, including Denali Prep/Kahiltna Dome Expeditions, as well as Wilderness Treks and Hikes.
Cheers!
~Julia

Clear Day in Talkeetna

2009-11-06T18:21:00.006-09:00

Greetings Blog Fans,

It was clear and dry in Talkeetna today. The Post Office gossip seems to be focused on the lack of snow for this time of year. But excellent ice skating on the frozen ponds! I'm going to wait until the lakes are good-and-frozen before I venture out. It was up to nearly 40 F yesterday and today. I was talking to Dave Johnston who is glad it's not snowing yet, as they are still working on the roof of their sauna. Dave is usually one of the first ones to strap on his skis each year! (Yes, this is the Dave Johnston.) He's been skating on the ponds in his neighborhood, noting that it had been down to -4 a couple of nights and "probably frozen through". I noticed that they've been starting to get the hockey rink iced up for practice, that's more my speed.

It has been a busy week here in the AMS office. Lots of enrollments in progress for the West Buttress! Here is the official standing as of today - there are a few applications pending so this will very likely change first thing on Monday.

Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 5 spaces
May 3- 23: 4 spaces
May 10-30: FULL
May 17-June 6: FULL
May 24-June 13: 2 spaces
May 31-June 20: 3 spaces*
June 7-June 27: 2 spaces
June 14-July 4: 1 space
June 21-July 11: 1 space
Custom Dates Filling Fast!
All Dates Filling Fast!
*Special small group, 4 climbers, 2 guides,$6900 per person

Have a great weekend!
~Julia

Friday Update

2009-10-30T20:06:00.003-08:00

Hello all, here is an availability update...

Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 5 spaces
May 3- 23: 5 spaces
May 10-30: FULL
May 17-June 6: FULL
May 24-June 13: 2 spaces
May 31-June 20: 3 spaces*
June 7-June 27: 2 spaces
June 14-July 4: 1 space
June 21-July 11: 2 spaces
Custom Dates Filling Fast!
All Dates Filling Fast!
*Special small group, 4 climbers, 2 guides,$6900 per person

Have a great weekend!
~Julia

Cool & Sunny in Talkeetna

2009-10-28T11:49:00.007-08:00

We're enjoying a view of the Range today - it has been a while! Yesterday we had our first snowfall, but it was gone in no time. This morning it was down to 20 degrees, with this lovely view...
That cloud became a triple lenticular with a miles-long tail, fueled by a gnarly wind out of the north!

Here is the update for availability:

Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 5 spaces
May 3- 23: 5 spaces
May 10-30: 1 space
May 17-June 6: FULL
May 24-June 13: 3 spaces
May 31-June 20: 3 spaces*
June 7-June 27: 2 spaces
June 14-July 4: 1 space
June 21-July 11: 2 spaces
Custom Dates Filling Fast!
All Dates Filling Fast!
*Special small group, 4 climbers, 2 guides,$6900 per person

Enjoy the day!
~Julia

Quick Update

2009-10-23T14:38:00.004-08:00

West Buttress Availability has changed...

Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 5 spaces
May 3- 23: 5 spaces
May 10-30: 1 space
May 17-June 6: FULL
May 24-June 13: 3 spaces
May 31-June 20: 3 spaces*
June 7-June 27: 2 spaces
June 14-July 4: 1 space
June 21-July 11: 4 spaces
Custom Dates Filling Fast!
All Dates Filling Fast!
*Special small group, 4 climbers, 2 guides

Have a great weekend!
~Julia

Ray Genet, Gear Sale and Lots of Other News...

2009-10-22T12:37:00.012-08:00

Talkeetna News
We're enjoying warmer weather today, it's up to 40 F. It's been like winter in Portland, lately, with overcast skies and cold mornings, down to 20 F some mornings. Somehow the pansies and other hardy flowers are hanging in there and the lawn is still green. Nothing on the ground except leaves, so the biking and hiking is still awesome! People doing construction work got some bonus time to do dirt work before the ground freezes. (Melis & Joey finished their dirt work! Gray water system is in!)

Tonight there will be a Talkeetna Community Education class here in town, called "Chicken University", learn how to raise chickens in Alaska! Steve Brown from Palmer is teaching - he climbed with us last year. He's the University of Alaska Fairbanks extension agent, and knows everything about farming, gardening and so on here in the cold. Very fun to talk to him!

While you are perusing the KTNA Announcements, scroll down and you'll see there will be a Celebration of the Life and Times of Ray Genet, on Sunday October 25 at 3pm here in town. Colby has been helping with the slide show. The locals have been coming up with some amazing stories! Can't believe it's been 30 years...

AMS News
It's time for the Sort-of-Annual Used Gear Sale at AMS!! Saturday, October 24th, from 10 am to 2 pm at the AMS Mountain Shop on F Street in East Talkeetna. Phone number is 354-1233.

It's been BUSY here in the office! We are experiencing an early surge in enrollments, for West Buttress Expeditions especially. We're getting WFR enrollments much earlier than usual, too.

We have some exciting changes - we're adding a FULL West Rib Expedition to the schedule; and we've set up the May 31 West Buttress Expedition as a high guide-to-climber ratio, small group. This is an awesome option! Check with us for more details. We've already got one experienced climber signed up.

Here is the latest for availability:

Aconcagua, Normal Route, 2010 Availability:
February 8-26, 2010: 6 spaces
Argentina is calling you!

Kahiltna Dome Expedition/Denali Prep Course, 2010 Availability:
June 3-12: 7 spaces
Custom Dates Available

Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 5 spaces
May 3- 23: 5 spaces
May 10-30: 1 space
May 17-June 6: FULL
May 24-June 13: 3 spaces
May 31-June 20: 3 spaces*
June 7-June 27: 4 spaces
June 14-July 4: 1 space
June 21-July 11: 4 spaces
Custom Dates Filling Fast!
All Dates Filling Fast!
*Special small group, 4 climbers, 2 guides

Denali, West Rib, 2010 Availability:
Yes, Full Rib! May 29-June 18: 4 spaces. Contact AMS for details!
Custom Dates Available

Denali, Upper West Rib, 2010 Availability:
June 5-June 25: 4 spaces
Custom Dates Available

Other 2010 offerings:
Mountaineering Courses - all dates have availability
Wilderness Hikes & Treks - all dates have availability
Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Workshops - all dates have availability
Wilderness First Responder Courses & Re-certifications - all dates have availability

Many Custom options are still available. Give us a call or send us an email. We're in the office from 10 am to 5pm Monday - Friday, this time of year.

Ciao!
~Julia

Thursday Update

2009-10-15T18:21:00.007-08:00

It's been warmer than usual here in Talkeetna, a very nice autumn. It's been a bit damp and foggy the last couple of days. The "snow" word keeps appearing in the forecast, but the snow line is still pretty high.

The office has been pretty busy with enrollments, people calling about their plans for 2010 and some even for 2011. The Mountain House is almost completely booked for 2010! We'll start taking reservations for March 2011 on March 1, 2010. We'll be starting a waiting list for 2010 soon. We still have a few dates open here and there.

We got the latest Jack Wolfskin catalogue in the mail with their several page spread about their visit to Alaska in April 2009. Their photographer, Gaudenz, took beautiful photos and the weather cooperated for them. Fantastic photos from their dog mushing trip with EarthSong Lodge up by Healy and their time on the Ruth Glacier with our guides Brian McCullough and Larry Holmgren. Manfred and his kids obviously had a great time. They gave their gear a thorough workout! There are some fun pictures of Talkeetna, too. I enjoyed Manfred's personal narrative of the adventure.
It's a huge, gorgeous catalog - check it out! www.jack-wolfskin.com Pick your language of choice and enjoy. Thanks Manfred!

Updates for enrollment:

Kahiltna Dome Expedition/Denali Prep Course, 2010 Availability:
June 3-12: 7 spaces
Custom Dates Available

Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 5 spaces
May 3- 23: 5 spaces
May 10-30: 1 space
May 17-June 6: 1 space
May 24-June 13: 6 spaces
May 31-June 20: 5 spaces
June 7-June 27: 4 spaces
June 14-July 4: 5 spaces
June 21-July 11: 4 spaces
Custom Dates Filling Fast!

Denali, Upper West Rib, 2010 Availability:
May 29-June 18: 4 spaces (possible Full West Rib expedition - contact AMS for details)
June 5-June 25: 4 spaces
Custom Dates Available

Other 2010 offerings:
Mountaineering Courses - all dates have availability
Wilderness Hikes & Treks - all dates have availability
Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Workshops - all dates have availability
Wilderness First Responder Courses & Re-certifications - all dates have availability

Many Custom options are still available. Give us a call or send us an email. We're in the office from 10 am to 5pm Monday - Friday, this time of year.

Cheers!
~Julia

Denali Prep Courses

2009-10-08T11:06:00.007-08:00

The hot topic lately here is how to prepare for a Denali climb. Of course, this is different for everyone. It depends whether you are starting out as a couch potato or a marathon runner.
If you're beyond couch potato, have been getting out there backpacking, maybe trying a little rock climbing, and want to "kick it up a notch", a Mountaineering Course is a great way to go. If you have your sights set on Denali in particular, a Denali Prep Course is highly recommended. Meanwhile, get out there and start hiking, biking, climbing, bagging some 14-ers and snow camping every chance you get.

Our Denali Prep Mountaineering Course, also called Kahiltna Dome Expedition, is an ideal way to prepare! Some of the advantages to our Denali Prep Course include the fact that you'll be experiencing the Alaska Range firsthand. You fly in to Base Camp and follow the West Buttress route for about a third of the route. What better way to prepare? Along the way, you practice all the skills needed for the entire West Buttress route: glacier travel & crevasse rescue, camp building and fortifying, fixed line ascension, etc, and you'll travel expedition style (moving camp) pulling sleds with gear. The course is set up to teach you to be self-sufficient for an expedition, not just to rely on guides for your future climbs. This course would also be great training for other big, cold, glaciated mountains.
Here is the link to more info: http://www.climbalaska.org/mtc-denali-prep.html

Kahiltna Dome Expedition/Denali Prep Course, 2010 Availability:
June 3-12: 8 spaces
Custom Dates Available

Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 5 spaces
May 3- 23: 5 spaces
May 10-30: 1 space
May 17-June 6: 1 space
May 24-June 13: 6 spaces
May 31-June 20: 5 spaces
June 7-June 27: 4 spaces
June 14-July 4: 5 spaces
June 21-July 11: 4 spaces
Custom Dates Filling Fast!

Denali, Upper West Rib, 2010 Availability:
May 29-June 18: 4 spaces
June 5-June 25: 4 spaces
Custom Dates Available

We are processing registrations for all of our 2010 programs, so drop us a line if you're curious about enrollment: info@climbalaska.org

Cheers!
~Julia

Winter is sneaking up on us

2009-10-06T15:15:00.007-08:00

It is a beautiful sunny day here in Talkeetna. The mountains look amazing and crisp compared to a great day mid-summer.

I heard from folks 120 mile north of here that the snow is moving down the mountainsides. The folks at Camp Denali maintain their office at Mile 229 of the George Parks Highway, where they have snow on the ground!
http://www.campdenali.com/live/blog/blog
Here is a photo from them:

~ Julia

2010 Availability

2009-09-29T17:57:00.002-08:00

Here's the rundown at the moment for Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 5 spaces
May 3- 23: 5 spaces
May 10-30: 1 space
May 17-June 6: 1 space
May 24-June 13: 6 spaces
May 31-June 20: 5 spaces
June 7-June 27: 4 spaces
June 14-July 4: 5 spaces
June 21-July 11: 4 spaces

We also have availability on all Mountaineering Courses, including Denali Prep and Advanced Mountaineering Courses for 2010. We are processing enrollments, so drop us a line if you're curious about enrollment. info@climbalaska.org

Cheers!
~Julia

Another Guide Gets Married!

2009-09-24T15:15:00.002-08:00

AMS Guide Seth Hobby and his bride Maren were married in Norway!
Congratulations Seth & Maren!
(I'll see if I can get a photo up...)
~Julia

6 Day Mountaineering course finishes the AMS season

2009-09-20T21:05:00.002-08:00

The last climbers in the Alaska Range flew out on time and all smiles. Good weather persisted throughout the course and they were able to crank through all of the curriculum plus move camp. A nice way to end the season. We'll still be posting periodic entries while we get ready for whats turning into an exciting 2010. Be well out there.
Colby

12-day Mountaineering Course has returned!

2009-09-18T13:49:00.002-08:00

Melis, Joey, Dusty and their crew - Tamara, Mark, Garett, John, Stephen, Alex & Michael have returned from the Eldridge Glacier all smiles! They are unpacking, enjoying the autumn leaves and thinking about showers, lunch and dinner, then enjoying some laid-back Talkeetna life.

The 6-day Mountaineering Course is due to fly out tomorrow if the weather holds. (Larry, Matt M, Emily, Casey & Matt B) It's looking pretty good, we'll see how things look in the morning.

Cheers,
~Julia

Wednesday - Sept 16, 2009

2009-09-16T17:35:00.002-08:00

Expedition Availability Update

Here's the rundown at the moment for Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 5 spaces
May 3- 23: 5 spaces
May 10-30: 1 space
May 17-June 6: 1 space
May 24-June 13: 6 spaces
May 31-June 20: 5 spaces
June 7-June 27: 5 spaces
June 14-July 4: 5 spaces
June 21-July 11: 4 spaces

If you are curious about availability for any of our programs, feel free to email us: info@climbalaska.org

Cheers!
~Julia

Word from two courses!

2009-09-14T17:51:00.007-08:00

The 6-day Mountaineering Course packed today and flew to the Coffee Glacier in the Alaska Range. Pictured left to right: Emily & Casey (newlyweds!), instructors Matt Montavon and Larry Holmgren, & Matt B. What a beautiful day! They enjoyed the sun while packing and practicing fixed line ascension. Tomorrow they will work on the basics of knots, roping up, then placing anchors and going for a glacier walk. The next day they'll focus on ascending out of a crevasse and probably practice some scenarios. Tonight they'll focus on building camp and eating dinner!

Melis called in from the Eldridge Glacier with the 12-day Mountaineering Course to report great weather, a foot of new snow and that they are having a great time! They moved camp today, down glacier and plan to do some climbing tomorrow. The next day they will will move camp again then start on some more advanced skills and rescue scenarios. Hello to everyone from Melis, Joey, Dusty, Mark, Tamara, Garett, John, Stephen, Alex and Michael!
Cheers,
~Julia

Mountaineering Course Birthday Summit!

2009-09-10T15:13:00.003-08:00

Joey and the 12-day Mountaineering Course called in from the summit of an un-named peak along the Eldridge Glacier at 1:45 pm today - they are celebrating Mark's birthday on the summit! They've been debating on a name for it and so far the winning name is "Not Hershey Kiss". They are enjoying sunny weather and they say "we can see every mountain in Alaska!" Everyone says hello!
Cheers,
~Julia

Back from the Arrigetch

2009-09-09T17:52:00.002-08:00

Colby returned from guiding a 9 day back packing trip through the Arrigetch Mountains, Gates of the Arctic National Park, Brooks Range. After a couple rainy days they got blue bird weather for the rest of the trip. Here is a shot of the East and West Maiden.

Course Photos

2009-09-07T17:35:00.007-08:00

Here are pictures from today. 12-day Mountaineering Course led by Melis, Joey and Dusty. Participants are: Mark, Tamara, Garett, John, Stephen, Alex & Michael. Here are some shots of them packing, and a group photo. They flew to the Eldridge Glacier in the Alaska Range. Click on photos to see them larger.
Cheers!
~Julia

2010 Expedition Update

2009-09-07T14:37:00.006-08:00

Denali West Buttress Expeditions are starting to fill up! We'll have the 2010 Schedule with expedition availability posted on our website next week. http://www.climbalaska.org/schedule.html
We are now booking for all Workshops, Courses and Expeditions for 2010. Wilderness First Responders & WFR Re-certifiers are welcome to sign up to make sure your spot is secure.

Here's the rundown at the moment for Denali, West Buttress, 2010 Availability:
April 27-May 17: 5 spaces
May 3- 23: 5 spaces
May 10-30: 3 spaces
May 17-June 6: 3 spaces
May 24-June 13: 6 spaces
May 31-June 20: 6 spaces
June 6-June 27: 5 spaces
June 14-July 4: 6 spaces
June 21-July 11: 4 spaces

If you are curious about availability for any of our programs, feel free to email us: info@climbalaska.org

Cheers from sunny Talkeetna!
~Julia

Happy Labor Day!

2009-09-07T10:17:00.004-08:00

We're gearing up here for our September 12 Day Mountaineering Course! 7 students (Mark, Tamara, Garett, John, Stephen, Alex, Michael) and instructors Melis, Joey & Dusty are enjoying a gear check in the sun on this crisp, 50 degree morning. They are heading out to the Alaska Range this afternoon. We'll try to give you updates here.

As usual, I can't resist posting photos of the beautiful mountains as captured by webcam.
Here's the North Side webcam, and the South Side webcam.
Hope you all are enjoying a well-deserved long weekend!
~Julia

The Rain Has Gone...

2009-09-03T10:25:00.007-08:00

Wow, many days of rain, gorgeous colors bursting from the forest, mushrooms everywhere, and now SUN! It's a beautiful day in paradise!
Here are views from the North Side web cam and the TAT webcam here in Talkeetna.
For more photos of this beautiful place, check out the Talkeetna Travel blog: http://talktrav.tumblr.com/

Colby to the Brooks Range

2009-08-31T14:01:00.005-08:00

Colby is guiding a backpacking adventure in the Brooks Range for Arctic Wild. Here are some photos from Arrigetch Peaks in Gates of the Arctic National Park. Here is their website - amazing places they go to!
That powdered sugar dusting signals the termination of summer, "termination dust", better be ready for winter!
Enjoy
~Julia