tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-45219364776088251022009-12-06T11:47:23.077+01:00C'est un site pour analyser en détail: surtout des repas et des techniques culinaires, mais aussi de la politique française ou américaine, de la musique, de l'opéra.... A site for analysing in depth fine dining, culinary techniques, American and French politics, music, opera, and the rest...Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.comBlogger102125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-47332310901160591292009-10-16T17:47:00.002+02:002009-11-12T20:51:46.938+01:00

It really is just a manner of speaking: I have no intent to end anything about this masterpiece of civilisation, the roast chicken. But after a meal at the infamous Chez l'Ami Louis, rue du Vert Bois, in the 3rd arrondissement, I felt like summarising my thoughts about roast chicken, the most famous dish of that restaurant. First things first – how is L'Ami Louis' roast chicken? It's pretty good

Julothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02600720092136723133noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-75962620202217769922009-10-16T15:57:00.003+02:002009-11-26T17:15:48.127+01:00

De HegiaJe vous ai laissés la dernière fois sur la description de « l'école narcissique » de cuisine, mais en fait, je n'ai pas fini de vous parler du paysage de la grande cuisine aujourd'hui. On dit souvent que la « starisation » des chefs a commencé avec Paul Bocuse, qui aurait « sorti les chefs de la cuisine ». Pour les amener à la télé, manifestement. Mais ce qui était une glorification des

Julothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02600720092136723133noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-86559776621758733392009-10-15T16:12:00.002+02:002009-10-20T07:40:26.547+02:00

De OFF 4 - Day 2 La preuve que je suis devenu un critique important, c'est que j'ai des théories maintenant. En voici une : il me semble qu'il y a aujourd'hui trois grands types de grande cuisine, que je m'en vais organiser par élément prépondérant. Il y a d'abord les grandes cuisines d'ingrédients, celles qui sont tournées vers l'admiration du produit, de la nature. Par exemple, chez Winkler en

Julothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02600720092136723133noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-55408728933481447322009-10-15T10:55:00.002+02:002009-10-15T11:09:14.179+02:00

De Le Cinq, BriffardThank you to all readers who complained about the lack of posting during the summer. I could tell you that I've been busy with other things, personal activities, new projects for you readers, and that I haven't been eating out quite as much, and that would all be true. De La Patisserie des rêves, Philippe ConticiniBut there's a more important reason -- I am moving away from

Julothttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02600720092136723133noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-50744396765364174152009-06-18T12:27:00.007+02:002009-06-18T13:02:22.653+02:00

De Les Prés d'Eugénie(Guérard's garden)"1,2,3... Soleil!" is a kids’ game : they’re all running around but need to freeze when the master of the game says “1,2,3.. Soleil!”. Kids who are still moving when the phrase is pronounced are eliminated until there is only one left. I’ve come to believe that this is actually the game most restaurants are playing with the Michelin stars: at three, and

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-72996189124617211082009-05-26T13:33:00.007+02:002009-05-26T16:21:04.885+02:00

C’est vraiment juste une façon de parler : je n’ai aucune intention d’en finir avec ce chef-d’œuvre de civilisation. Au contraire, continuons. Mais une visite au fameux L’Ami Louis, rue du Vert-Bois dans le 3ème arrondissement, m’a donné l’envie de revenir sur le poulet rôti, qui est la star de ce restaurant. Comment est-il ? Il n’est pas mal. Comme tout ce qu’on mange à l’Ami Louis, ça part sur

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-69261867804731469322009-05-12T11:09:00.001+02:002009-05-12T11:17:21.309+02:00

Humility and masterful skills, Cerruti style, were not everywhere during this food festival. One trend of current cuisine that could clearly be spotted in Deauville was the emphasis on charming, good-looking young men. To a point, this belongs to the very logic of such a cooking show, paradoxical in itself: food made here is not meant to be eaten, and does not impress by its taste of smell (which

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-38008700473662092352009-04-27T18:08:00.000+02:002009-04-27T18:09:40.147+02:00

With delay, here is my feuilleton about the OFF4 – It has four episodes, or maybe five, we’ll see.De OFF 4- Day 1As I first told you, the overwhelming impression of the OFF4 was that the Danes stole the show, because of what I’d have to call their sincerity – their genuine passion for food and their country, and for exploring. There were a few other trends I should mention. For instance one

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-12198938082316151992009-04-23T13:31:00.006+02:002009-04-23T18:18:16.055+02:00

La version française viendra plus tard.De Le Cinq, Briffard(Photo Ptipois)News from my favourite active chef : Eric Briffard. Followers of the Parisian food scene know that Eric Briffard, once the almost three star chef of the Plaza Athénée, then ousted for cause of Ducasse-isation of said palace, then lost in the Parisian desert, then sheltered at Les Elysées where he used to offer the best

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-69223348886594121712009-04-23T12:01:00.001+02:002009-04-23T12:34:43.385+02:00

De LasserreLa version française est ici. Lasserre is a historical monument of a restaurant. It once was ZE top restaurant in Paris (say, in the 50s?) and it still is today a solid institution, who not only keeps its standing but also has loyal regular clients. From the moment you step in, you know they take French art de vivre seriously in here. It starts downstairs with this hall like in a cozy

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-59190500529240074422009-04-01T17:23:00.002+02:002009-04-01T18:26:05.737+02:00

De JadisI don't know why, but I've been on a pretty good roll lately with bistrots in Paris and elsewhere. An excellent one, actually, who reconciled me with dining in Paris -- regular readers will remember that I was slowly losing hope in the seriousness of French cooks. I was also worrying that maybe I was starting to develop the syndrom of the bored food critics, who grew unimpressed by a

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-56221457333279015762009-03-26T16:25:00.002+01:002009-04-23T12:37:54.831+02:00

De LasserreThe English version is here. C’est une maison historique et unique, que Lasserre, avenue Franklin-Roosevelt. Ce qui fut LE grand restaurant parisien dans les années 1950 est encore aujourd’hui une institution fidèle non seulement à sa légende, mais encore à ses clients. Dès l’arrivée, on voit qu’ici, ça ne badine pas avec l’art de vivre. Tout commence avec cette entrée de maison

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-4829711579944644612009-02-26T15:49:00.004+01:002009-02-26T16:26:48.884+01:00

De OFF 4- Day 1So I'm back from the 4th Omnivore Food Festival in Deauville. They call it OFF4, and it was a reunion of cooks and winemakers, but while the winemakers organised tastings, the cooks organised...demos. For two days, we sat in a theatre, watching cooks cook, and even sometimes just talk, or run videos. De OFF 4 - Day 2I won't tell you the whole story here. In fact, I made a story

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-84277990504672192542009-02-10T17:34:00.003+01:002009-02-10T17:58:56.590+01:00

De Ze BreadOn parle parfois du pain comme du symbole ultime, non seulement de l'alimentation, mais de la civilisation. Pourtant, les baguettes de tradition qu'on nous sert à tous bout de champ, si elles sont parfois bonnes, et même assez addictive, ne m'ont jamais paru justifier cette emphase. Mais quand, au hasard de mes pérégrinations rue du Théatre, je suis tombé sur un vrai bon pain, fait

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-26880115719810054302009-02-03T17:56:00.005+01:002009-02-06T21:57:45.555+01:00

De Jacques GéninOn me demande parfois où trouver un très bon millefeuille. Malheureusement, ma réponse était jusqu’alors invariablement quelque restaurant de haute volée, parce que le bon millefeuille doit être frais. Immanquablement, un millefeuille qui traîne dans une vitrine aura la pâte feuilleté toute trempée, à moins qu’elle n’ait été « blindée » par quelque glaçage ou autre artifice. Si en

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-70871946822532028922009-01-28T13:08:00.003+01:002009-01-29T16:16:27.554+01:00

De LedoyenOne of the biggest fallacies of food critic these days is the notion that one visit is enough to know what to expect from a restaurant. I am guilty of this myself, as evidenced by my former post on Ledoyen, among others. I blame the overall competition between bloggers, and my misplaced ambition, for sometimes posting reviews on restaurants I don’t know well enough.In any case, at

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-21907009635438875722008-12-25T12:28:00.003+01:002008-12-25T12:51:56.382+01:00

De L'Angle du FaubourgEntre nous, j'ai eu beaucoup de déconvenues en matière de gastronomie à Paris. Je ne vous dirai même pas les noms parce que c'est beaucoup de restaurants et de commerces que j'aime beaucoup, à tous les niveaux de prix, mais mon impression dominante depuis plusieurs mois est qu'il est difficile de trouver des restaurants et des commerces sérieux en ce moment. Les cuissons

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-16817719375821870372008-12-11T11:51:00.006+01:002008-12-22T15:04:46.501+01:00

De ChristopheI had heard from the then new restaurant Christophe from François Simon's TV show. It looked good. In those bistrot-obsessed days, it takes some guts to open a small, gastronomic restaurant in the middle of tourist and student central, namely the Place de la Montagne Sainte Geneviève. But in that small room with cold marbled tables and the most awful table sets ever, plagued also by

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-47700905309652313892008-12-11T11:31:00.005+01:002008-12-15T16:27:03.620+01:00

De Vin sur VinWell, not really, but it was rather revolting. I had read nothing but raves about Vin sur Vin, that small restaurant by the Eiffel tower that supposedly had rare wines and simple quality food.One thing is true: the view on the Eiffel tower when you exit the restaurant is awesome.De Vin sur VinThe place is rather comfortable and a bit too precious. Lentils are used to decorate the

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-2664972915340607252008-12-11T10:09:00.003+01:002008-12-11T10:45:14.572+01:00

De PinxoPinxo is on the same block as Aain Dutournier's gastronomic restaurant, Le Carré des Feuillants, which by the way will be having some NYE night in the cellar this year, and I think there are still tables available. With its open grill behind a large granite bar, Pinxo is not unlike l'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, and its sober, somewhat rough style is not unlike the difference between both

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-36661449824861696872008-12-04T12:18:00.003+01:002008-12-04T15:22:34.292+01:00

De LameloiseEnglish version coming soon.J'avoue, en "descendant" à Lyon pour prendre des nouvelles de la maison Bocuse, je me suis arrêté pour dîner sur la route -- et je n'ai pas pris un sandwich, ni même un jambon au porto, sur une aire d'autoroute. Ce que j'ai trouvé en m'arrêtant à Chagny, après un petit bout de route le long des grands vignobles du sud de Beaune, c'est une vraie grande

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-72753508345491775472008-11-14T16:38:00.006+01:002008-11-16T20:53:48.428+01:00

De BocuseJ’avais amèrement regretté, lors de mon passage précédent à Lyon, de n’avoir pas rendu ma visite rituelle à « Monsieur Paul ». C’est un drôle d’endroit, le restaurant Paul Bocuse, avec son chasseur issu d’un épisode de Tintin, la tronche au patron partout, les cocottes à vendre sur le chemin des toilettes, et surtout les recettes inchangées, absolument identiques depuis… depuis combien

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-53451665128789031702008-10-31T14:28:00.005+01:002008-10-31T14:57:59.269+01:00

Peu importe si la mort de Coluche était ou pas un assassinat déguisé : de toute évidence, pour beaucoup, il ne suffit pas qu'il soit mort, il faudrait encore qu'il n'ait jamais existé. C'est ce à quoi s'emploie, volontairement ou non, Antoine de Caune dans son dernier film. Ce qu'il nous montre en effet, c'est une espèce de Bigard ancien, un bobo perdu dans son fric et sa libido, ayant fait

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-19938319938122110922008-10-08T16:36:00.008+02:002008-10-16T15:00:35.687+02:00

L'Ambroisie on a late September Thursday night -- party of four. My overwhelming impression was that of an extremly civilised place, and even, quite frankly, of a place reserved to the happy few. Clearly, the restaurant is not even interested in making you the meal of your life. Not even a very special party. They're focused on an aristocratic model of almost daily "you can't afford it if you

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4521936477608825102.post-10306864486618976112008-09-16T11:27:00.005+02:002008-09-16T12:30:29.455+02:00

The characterization of Nouvelle cuisine as light is misleading. If you think of Bocuse, Robuchon, Senderens, Guérard, even Loiseau, Winkler, or Passard. All rely heavily on butter and sometimes cream. One hardly leaves these places feeling light, eventhough there are degrees.The main reason for butter is, that nothing replaces it to capture the flavors. Thanks to butter you can make mono-taste

Julot-les-pinceauxnoreply@blogger.com5