Ouray Ice Climbing

Ouray Ice Park

2010-01-02T05:26:00.000-08:00

The Ouray Ice Park is fantastic shape, and ready for the Festival!

I spent the last couple days climbing in the park with some super nice folks from Texas. They picked it up really fast! Below is Parker smoking up Pick of the Vic early on his second day of ice climbing. Impressive! Good technique helps! Perfect Triangles.

We took a little lunch on the Upper Bridge and watched this gentleman crash his way up Root Canal, WI5 Funky! The conditions in the Lead area will make you work right now!

It was getting busy, so we headed down to the Ventana area where we found this sweet and steep WI5+ pillar formed up and feeling solid. I was pretty impressed to see these guys do as well as they did on it. I climbed it afterwards and found it to be continually off-balance and thought provoking. If you are registered for an Advanced Ice clinic at the fest, you might get coached up it as well. It is fantastic.

We've got a few more projects to finish before the fest, but its going to be good one. Lots of pros in town already getting a feel for our unique rock and tuning up for the comp. Good time to watch some serious climbing go down!

Cheers, CC

Stairway to Heaven

2009-12-29T19:35:00.002-08:00

Stairway to Heaven 12/29/09

I had the pleasure of climbing Stairway with two young gentlemen from Berkeley on Tuesday. The route is as big as I have seen it for this time of year. There was every type of ice on the route, from blue steel to sloppy wet goo. The 3rd pitch was a total shower, but it looks like the flow is getting set on the far right so the the far left side of pillar may be drying. We got soaked, but it was a nice day so no big deal. All in all it is in superb shape. There was light snow falling all day, so if it kept up avi conditions could be different.

Cheers, CC.

Horsetail & Stairway

2009-12-22T15:46:00.000-08:00

On Monday Cole & I did Horsetail. It was in primo condition. The middle line on the first pitch was really wet but the far right and left are reasonable. After the first bit the entire route was a gooey highway. We put in threads and rapped the route, back in town for lunch.

Today found us headed for Silverton. Stairway to Heaven is in superb condition. Many nice steep little steps, all sporting great ice (no funky layers). There appears to be a healthy amount of water supplying the route. This will certainly be one of those years it grows to an enourmous size. We opted for the walk off as it appeared to have been well travelled. I couldn't suggest this descent. The upper slopes were funky. All of the rap anchors were burried except the tree at the base of pitch three. Time to put in threads. It was snowing pretty hard when we left today, so things could change a bit for the near future. Enjoy the holidays!

Happy Trails,

Kevin

Ouray Ice Climbing and new Mammut Clothing!!!

2009-12-11T06:41:00.000-08:00

Its been a pretty good early ice season this year, and with more snow in the mountains, routes should continue to grow. The Ouray Ice Park is scheduled to open a week early on Dec 12th. Conditions will be fantastic for the Festival starting Jan 8.. Come out and mingle with top climbers around the world, try gear, and get some good instruction.

I've been happily testing out some new pieces from Mammut this Autumn, and have come up with a few new favorites to add to the arsenal. As always the Tripod helmet is the most comfortable and easiest to use helmet on the market, period. Try one on at the fest, you will buy it and wear it everyday.

In the photo below, I'm starting up a somewhat funky first pitch of the classic Skylight climb. Campo Pants and Jasper Pull are a sweet combo for moderate protection and incredible movement.

This is on the Ames Ice Hose. There was a party on the ice already so we took some laps on the 5.9 rock pitch start. I'm sporting the Base Jump Pants (my everyday favorite for ice and alpine) and the new Extreme Baltoro Jacket. This jacket is great. Superb protection from dripping ice and howling wind, and stretches and climbs perfectly. Excellent for backcountry ice climbing and alpinism.

And finally the Direct North Face in South Mineral, another early season mandatory tune up climb. It was a gorgeous day so I went with the venerable Champ pants and Verglas Jacket.

Thanks to Mammut for all the sweet gear! All the SJMG guides are super-psyched on their uniforms this year. We went with the Extreme Baltoro and Stratus Flash pieces this year and they are excellent. Thanks! Thanks! Thanks!

Respectfully Submitted,
Clint Cook
San Juan Mountain Guides
Ouray, CO

Ouray Ice Park 2009 - Open Soon!!!

2009-12-10T15:40:00.000-08:00

I walked through the park today scouting for our Mountain Rescue training tomorrow. Things really look great. The river is currently low allowing good access to all areas. I was able to move around in the gorge quite easily. The following pictures were taken this afternoon in the park. It looks like climbers visiting on opening day, this Saturday, will be treated to some fine climbing. Please enjoy the pics. See you all Saturday!!
Happy Trails,
KAK

Stump Wall

Below the Lower Bridge

School Room

New Funtier

South Park

2009-12-09T13:34:00.000-08:00

Today a bunch of local climbers spent the morning in the park shoveling snow from lower angle spots so the Ice Farmers can continue taking advantage of the cold temps. We received a relatively small amount of snow in town with this last storm. So the ice making continues as we approach opening day in the park, this Saturday. The park is looking really great. These could be the best conditions we've seen for an opening weekend in several years. Kudos to Mike and his crew for making it happen.

Thanks again to the shoveling crew this morning;

Mike M. - OIPI Board member

Alan C. - Timber Ridge & Antlers Motels

Chachi, Clint, and Kevin - SJMG

Horsetail Falls

2009-12-08T08:41:00.000-08:00

Squeezed in a trip up Horsetail Falls yesterday just prior to the big dump of snow. It had been shaping up nicely this fall and looked to be in superb condition. The river crossing was bomber with around an 8-12 inch ice bridge. Some funky rock steps in the narrows prior to gaining the ice climb proper - the new snow will help that section.

The climb was the proverbial Blue Goo highway! Single-swing thunker goo all the way to the top.

The first pitch (crux) had its typical wetness, perhaps more than usual. The shower was unavoidable for a few moves. On one high stick I had the water running down the shaft of the tool, through my glove and down my arm into my arm pit. Sweet! That combined with a dislodged chunk nailing me in the chin and I knew I was ice climbing again. Good to have winter back.

Respectfully submitted,

Grey Squirrel

The Snow is here

2009-12-06T10:08:00.000-08:00

I'm here in Silverton enjoing the snow fall.
We had about 5 inches of new snow overnight
All the ice routes are on very good condition
and the temps are great and looking forward to do some turns.
Come and visit the San Juans,.
Hasta pronto
Andres

Ames Ice Hose

2009-12-04T07:33:00.000-08:00

On Thursday I climbed the Ames Ice Hose with a couple old friends. Conditions are great, ice bottom to top. The second pitch is sporting it's two normal little cruxy sections but very reasonable. A .75 Camalot is nice to protect the upper crux section but not necessary. Not sure if the temps hit double digits at all that day, a most enjoyable outing none the less. Headed up the Camp Bird road today. I'll post some cool pics later today when my camera will cooperate with the computer. Apparently, they are not talking this morning? Happy Trails! KAK

More conditions from South Mineral

2009-12-01T21:53:00.000-08:00

Thought that must have been you Kevin!

We (Gary and I) were over on Campground and Snowblind today. Both are in great shape and set-up to rappel. Snowblind is definitely a bit harder right now and getting thin around the chockstone. Sundance looked great from the road, but didn't have time to get on it today.

Great ice climbing right now!!

2009-12-01T14:14:00.000-08:00

Visited South Mineral this morning with Sandy. The DNF was great, super fat and pretty dry. This area is seeing ton of traffic, for great reason!!! Get out and enjoy it. Cheers, KAK

2009-11-29T09:21:00.000-08:00

Went to Eureka Thursday morning and soloed Stairway. The only thin spots were the first roll in the middle of pitch one, but it would have taken an ice screw a few feet earlier and then could walk flat footed within two moves. Also the top of pitch four was thin as always as it transitions into the snow.
While I was there I talked to a party who had just done second gully and they said it was great.
Road to Nowhere and Whorehouse Hoses also looked good from the road. I could see that the top of Hosers' Highway looked excellent but couldn't see the mixed pitch, hope to rememdy that this week.

Friday soloed Campground Couloir, Snowblind, and DNF in South Mineral. All were in better than average condition. I only climbed two small wet steps, the rest were dry and fat. All routes are clearly seeing regular traffic.

Ice Park Conditions and Opening

2009-11-26T06:06:00.001-08:00

Walked thru the ice park a couple days ago. It is looking GOOD. Let's all hope for continued cold nights till opening weekend Dec. 19.

Think Cold Thoughts! Won't be long now.

2009-11-20T16:23:00.000-08:00

Had a chance to check out Eureka and South Mineral some more. Still pretty slim pickings.
We climbed Stairway on Wed. It was a little more engaging than usual, but there were a few decent screws and all the fixed anchors were easy to use.

Then we went to SMC today. We climbed the DNF thru the first three big steps via the M5 variation on the right of the 1st major pillar. Fun choss scaling, all you need is a grey C3.

There was a friendly party of 3 on the route as we rapped. Pictured below is their leader topping out on the slightly wet main pillar crux.

We went over and climbed Snowblind thru the first chockstone, the rest looked fine as well, but Davy caught a piece of ice with his nose and we opted for PBR at the Brown Bear.

Slow start, but some climbing can be done. Cheers, CC.

Eureka

2009-11-16T15:55:00.000-08:00

Went over to check out Eureka today. Still pretty bony. I went part way up Gully 2, but every pocket of snow was cracking out, so I opted to bail before the final gully. Jim T. soloed Stairway though after I left, said the top outs were a little spicy but overall pretty fun.

Probably best to wait a bit longer before heading onto the ice for most folks.

Cheers. Think Cold Thoughts. CC

Skiing!

2009-11-15T19:50:00.000-08:00

Our AMGA exam was cancelled today due to snow - so what else to do but get out and play in it!?

Ryan, Tracy, Bean and I (along with Avellana and Stella) went out later in the day on the second wave (Clint got out before us) for some wiggling in the white fluffy stuff.

While still a bit shallow of a snowpack - we had some great turns just off Red Mountain Pass. Here are some photos...

Seems like winter may be here to stay now?!

Ice climbing for Halloween

2009-11-03T07:17:00.001-08:00

I think this may have been my earliest outing ever for ice... and what a great day it was. Drove up Eureka to take the skis and ice tools for a walk. On the drive we noticed a little flow just south of Whorehouse that looked good - and no skis needed. We drove a little higher to make sure it was the best looking flow; here's the report:

Stairway - thin, fragile looking, but had ice on all the pitches
1st & 2nd gullies and the rest of the S. facing flows - very wet, thin and falling down
Whorehouse - thin and lots of water, a little ice

Heard news of some very wet conditions and marginal ice in S. Mineral Creek, but didn't check it out.

Here's the flow we climbed. Sorry for the bad pic - all I had was the cell phone...

Also worthy of noting - there was good ice forming up on Gravity's Rainbow and the ice up in Bear Creek. The afternoon heat is melting it all fast though...

The Dolomites!

2009-09-06T11:16:00.000-07:00

Just wrapped up 11 straight fantastic days in the Dolomites with Paul M. As always the company was fantastic, and the climbing was pretty good too! Here's the breakdown.

The view of the Tofana from Hotel Montana.

A friendly slobber to welcome us to Cortina! I'm a sucker for Saints.Day One. Paul cruising up Via Miriam on Torre Grande in the Cinque Torri. A classic 8 pitch UIAA V+, and a great way to get feel for the dolomite. Day Two: Torre Piccola di FalzaregoContemplating the Italian good life on top.Day 3: Torre Grande di Falzarego, just a little bigger and harder.Day 4: A well deserved rest day of sport climbing at Crepe du Oucera. Paul cranking away on the steep French grade 5c.Day 5: Spigolo Jori on Punta Fiames. Can you spot the line?
A little bit of air between Paul and the track as we approach the arete proper.On top with the hikers. Where did we come from?
Day 6: We went sport climbing at Sas di Stria. Too many pitches of French 5 to count.
Day 7: The Primo Spigolo, Tofana di Rozes. What can you say, its primo.10 pitches in with the famed Pilastro behind.Beautiful line. Worth another look.Day 8: The Grande linkup of the Torri di Falzarego. Clouds threatened, but Paul was getting pretty fast by now. Brits and Germans provided some good entertainment and motivation, but we were the first to the top!
Day 9: Via Ferrata di Innerkofler to the top of Paterno.

Day 10: Sport climbing in the rain under the huge overhangs at Landro. Paul cranked out 10+ pitches of stellar limetone that day, impressive. He was insistent we were first to be there, last to leave. the other guide thought we were a little weird, but dedicated.

Day 11: The beautiful Mazzorana route on Piz Popena Basso. Only 5 pitches, but sweet stemming for the last 60 meters. Then the crux of the trip, negotiating Piazza di Roma in the heart of Venice. Paul made it in, and i made it out alive. Mission accomplished.

The gorgeous Croda di Lago. Next year Paul?

Summer in the San Juans

2009-08-29T07:57:00.000-07:00

Its been a great summer season in the San Juans this year. We've had lots of great adventures all over the range. I've slacked a little on blogging regularly so here are a few highlights.

Rainbow Overflow in the Uncompaghre Gorge

Beautiful Blue Lakes from the pass.

Grady makes the FA of Grilled Cheese Sandwich 5.7. One of the new sport routes put up by SJMG guides in the Pool Wall Alcove.

I'll keep working on this, I'm in Italy! CC

Mt Wilson - El Diente Traverse

2009-07-17T05:28:00.000-07:00

I had the pleasure of spending the weekend with JD from Highlands Ranch. We have had a few adventures together over the years, including a fast ascent of the Tre Monts Route on Mont Blanc.

We started off with a day of rock climbing in the Alcove. Below is JD working up into the crux stemming moves on Groove Tube 5.9.

After that we packed up and hiked into Navajo Basin. We had some hail on the hike, but it was beautiful camping in the upper basin. We got up at 0330 and started climbing up the steep snow couloir on Mt. Wilson's North Face.
We climbed the 1500 feet of good neve, and headed over to the summit block on Mt. Wilson.
After topping Mt Wilson, the weather was holding ok, so we headed across the ridge to El Diente.
There are a couple ways to make the traverse. What I like to call the climber's traverse or the hiker's traverse. We opted for the high line and did the majority of the traverse on the crest itself.

As you approach El Diente, the ridge becomes more sharp and you are faced with this drop-off. An airy 20m rappel leads to the notch on El Diente and the summit shortly thereafter.
We descended the North Couloir on El Diente, and made the hike to camp and out to the trailhead. One of the sweetest ridges in the state. Good work JD!

Cheers, CC.

Maiden Voyage, Black Canyon

2009-06-23T15:14:00.000-07:00

Went into the Black with Dave L. from Australia today (Tues. June 23). He had seen the canyon before, but this was his first foray into the depths. We chose Maiden Voyage for his 1st Black route; opting for its clean rock, morning shade, and sweet handcracks!Dave was right on my heels for the descent down the Cruise Gulley, there were nice ropes fixed on the rappels, and we were soon at the base. Dave hiked every pitch like he was walking down the sidewalk.Having fun in the shade!Checkerboard's Island in the Sky.

Back on the Rim 4 hours later. Super fun climbing!
Cheers, CC

Dallas Peak South Face Couloir

2009-06-20T18:48:00.000-07:00

Bob O. and I got the chance to go into Mill Creek and climb the South Face Couloir on Dallas Peak on the 19th. Dallas has the reputation as the hardest 13er in the state, and it definitely has its challenges. The SFC is a sweet alpine route for those with good snow and ice skills. It features a moderate (2.5hrs) approach hike, and then 2500 feet of sweet neve, short steps of water ice, and good alpine rock. I'm not sure if anyone else ever climbs this route, but it is excellent. We were the first party on top for the year.This is one of the best alpine routes in the San Juans, period. If you have the skills. Bob is an alpine animal. Should be good for another 2 weeks.

Cheers, CC.

Summit for Someone Course

2009-06-20T18:23:00.000-07:00

Last weekend I instructed a 4-day Alpine Mountaineering Course for the Summit for Someone program. It is a pretty cool organization that raises money for at-risk youths to get to go climbing. The folks on our course each raised over $2000 each to go towards the Big City mountaineers foundation.We started with a thorough overview of equipment and packing techniques before heading up into the mountains. We made a nice camp at snow line with running water and great views. The next couple days we learned a ton of new techniques for snow and ice, and then climbed the very alpine South Slopes route on Mt Sneffels. It was a bit brutal in the morning with snow and high winds, but everyone put their best foot forward, and a few hours later Nick was on top of his first 14er! We elected to escape the harsh weather and spent the last day rock climbing and working on rope skills at a nice crag overlooking Ouray.

Super fun course! Looking forward to next year.
CC

Alpine Climbing Conditions in the San Juans

2009-06-16T05:55:00.000-07:00

Spent a few days up in Yankee Boy Basin this past week. Snow conditions are good. You can drive past the toilet to the upper gate and park. There is still plenty of snow for good alpine climbing right now. The south facing routes are holding less snow, but there is enough for great conditions on Teakettle and Sneffels. The north routes like Gilpin are still chock full and even seeing some ski descents.

Tis' the season! Come and get it!

Cheers, CC

Peak 11,300 SW Ridge

2009-06-16T05:15:00.000-07:00

I had a great 2nd trip in the Alaska Range in Mid-May. Bob and I flew directly into the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier on May 19th. We set up a nice camp and got prepped to head up on the route the next morning. The SW Ridge of PK 11,300 is one of the finest routes in the range. 4,000 feet of steep snow, sweet iced up corners and couloirs, and loads of clean 5.8 rock steps. From below the route is quite deceptive. It appears straightforward and not too far, but as it unfolds there are seemingly endless cols and corners to navigate before emerging on the summit ice field.We spent the first night at the Grey Rock Bivy, climbed over the summit to the start of the rappels on the 2nd, and back to camp on the 3rd day.Great trip, great company!

Cheers, CC