RV Tech Tips with Mark Polk

RVer's trailer keeps blowing out tires. What to do?

2008-10-06T15:37:00.000-07:00

QUESTION: I have a 27 foot Dutchman travel trailer that I bought new in 2002. To date I have blown out seven tires. I am now on Goodyear radials having replaced the O.E. Carlyle tires. My question is this: Do tires on a trailer require balancing and alignment like a car? I just find it amazing that I have had that many blowouts.

Mark Says: My first thought would be that the tires are overloaded. If you haven't done it yet, take the trailer to a set of scales where you can weigh each wheel position separately. Compare the weights to the tire weight rating when they are inflated properly.

I have heard many people complain about Carlyle tires, but seven blowouts indicates some other type of problem. Balancing the tires cannot hurt but isn't absolutely necessary. Alignment for a trailer is usually related to one of the axles shifting over. If you stand in front of, and then behind the trailer look to see if both axles (tires) are aligned with each other. If one of the tires sticks out farther than the other take it in to have it checked out.

I still don't think this is what is causing the problem. Weigh the wheel positions and try distributing any weight in the trailer so none of the tires are overloaded. Another important factor is to make sure you are using replacement tires designed specifically for trailers. The sidewalls are designed to hold up to the twisting and flexing that occurs when you make turns etc.

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Be careful about weight when choosing an RV tow vehicle

2008-09-30T12:25:00.000-07:00

If you already have the vehicle that you plan to tow with, you need to find a trailer that is within the weight range of your vehicle. This was a common problem I ran into during my days as an RV sales manager. Customers would come in to purchase a travel trailer only to find out that their tow vehicle did not have a very good tow rating. It can be extremely frustrating to find the perfect travel trailer or fifth wheel and then be told that you can't tow it. On the other hand it can be worse if you go to a less reputable RV dealer and the sales person tells you that you can tow it! This happens every day, and this is why you need to be armed with the right information before you buy.

It is not my intention to upset any RV dealers, but if you go to a dealership and they don't ask you for information about the tow vehicle, it would be wise to go elsewhere. The first question my salespeople were required to ask was if you already had a tow vehicle. If so, they would look in our towing book and identify the tow capacity for your particular vehicle. Then we would inform you of your options. We lost many sales because the customer could not safely pull the camper they wanted, but we did not allow them to jeopardize themselves or their family.

If you don't already have the tow vehicle, it's a good idea to find the camper you want first and then buy a vehicle that is capable of safely towing it. I will caution you again, be careful if you listen to the salesperson at the auto dealership. They are only interested in selling you a vehicle, and a large percentage of salespeople do not understand vehicle tow ratings. Call a reputable RV dealer and ask them to check the vehicles tow rating before you buy it.

I once had a customer that found the camper they wanted and went to purchase a new truck. The salesperson told him the truck could tow 10,000 pounds. He went on to show my customer where 10,000 pounds was stamped into the hitch receiver on the back of the truck. The 10,000 pounds stamped in the receiver is what the receiver itself is rated for. It has absolutely nothing to do with the tow rating for the truck. My customer bought the truck and brought it to us to have the brake control and wiring done. I looked the truck up in my book and it was rated to tow 5,400 pounds. The camper weighed 6,000 pounds. I could write a book about stories like this, but our goal is to prevent this from happening to you.

There are many things to consider before you buy a tow vehicle. How often do you plan to tow? Where do you plan to tow? Is this vehicle going to be used strictly for towing, or will you be using it for everyday driving too? Are you interested in a pop-up, travel trailer or fifth wheel? How much does the camper you want weigh? Once you have answered these questions you can start looking for that perfect tow vehicle.

The manufacturer determines a vehicles tow rating. It is the maximum amount of weight that the vehicle can safely tow. The manufacturer takes many factors into consideration when determining a tow rating. They look at the vehicles engine size, transmission, axle ratio, chassis, suspension, brakes, tires, cooling capacity and many other things. Now this may all sound complicated, but the bottom line is determining how much can the vehicle safely tow. Do not assume that just because you're buying a truck it can tow a lot of weight. Most manufacturers offer vehicles with tow packages. A tow package upgrades the vehicles suspension, brakes, tires, and cooling system. They also add items like engine and transmission oil coolers to protect the vehicles major components when you are towing.

Learn more about using your RV and its operation with Mark Polk's best-selling DVDs, books and eBooks.

How to store an RV for the winter season

2007-11-23T22:23:00.000-08:00

Snow has arrived in many parts of the country and before long it will be Christmas. What does this mean to many RVers? Well, besides shoveling sidewalks and last minute Christmas shopping it means parking the RV until next spring.

Most of us have already winterized our RVers, but did you really prepare your RV for several months of storage? Many of us don't think about it, but the storing portion is just as important as winterizing the water system. Actually winterizing your RV encompasses much more than protecting the water system from freezing temperatures. It's just that we're under the impression that winterizing means to put that pink non-toxic antifreeze through our water system and everything will be okay.

When I produced our winterizing video I included an entire section on properly storing the RV. It's important that we consider things like batteries, ventilation, the condition of sealants, mice, and fuel system protection just to mention a few.

Let's look at some things we should do in addition to winterizing our RV water system. The storage procedures are divided into two sections, the coach storage and the chassis storage. Follow the steps below that apply to your RV:

Coach Storage

Store your unit under a covered area if possible. If not, avoid parking under trees or in areas where grass and weeds will grow.

If you choose to buy a cover for the RV, be sure it is made of a breathable material. This will help in preventing mold and mildew.

Chock the wheels front and rear. Leave the parking brake off. If you're storing a Pop Up trailer, angle the tongue downward to assist in snow and water run off.

Inflate the tires to the manufacturer's recommended maximum cold pressure. Cover the tires to protect them from harmful ultraviolet rays. Place something between the tires and the ground, making sure whatever you use is larger than the actual footprint of the tire.

If you do not remove the tires for long-term storage periodically move the vehicle to prevent flat spots.

Close all of the window blinds to avoid sun exposure to the carpet, drapes and upholstery.

Wash the exterior of the unit and clean the interior thoroughly.

Make sure the awning fabric is clean and dry before storing.

On a Pop Up trailer make absolutely sure the fabric is clean and dry before storing. This is a good time to check for tears, and repair the fabric.

Inspect all roof seams, body seams and window sealant for cracks and openings. Water can get in the smallest openings so really inspect all sealants. Consult your dealer for sealants compatible with these materials.

Service all locks with a graphite spray lubricant. Lubricate all hinges and moving parts with WD 40.

Turn all LP gas appliances off. Turn the main LP gas supply valve off. If you're storing a Pop Up or travel trailer make sure the LP gas regulator is covered.

Remove the fuse for the LP gas leak detector while the unit is in storage. This will prevent the batteries from discharging. Don't forget to replace it next spring.

Insects are attracted to the odorant that is added to LP gas. To prevent mud daubers and wasps from building nests in and around your gas appliances, cover the refrigerator vent, the furnace vent and the water heater vent.

Inspect the underside of the unit thoroughly. Look for anywhere that mice or other rodents can get it, and seal as necessary.

Strategically place mouse and ant traps in and around the unit. Avoid using mouse poison inside the RV. Many RVers recommend using dryer sheets like Bounce to keep mice out.

Remove all perishables and anything that can freeze.

Leave doors, drawers and cabinets open.

Remove all consumables that would attract mice and other rodents.

Defrost the freezer compartment and clean the refrigerator. Leave the refrigerator doors open and place some baking soda inside to absorb odors.

Clean the air conditioner filters, and cover the air conditioner.

Turn off the main breaker and unplug all appliances.

Remove dry cell batteries in clocks, flashlights and other items.

The use of Maxx Air products will provide the airflow and ventilation required during storage while keeping the elements out.

Chassis Storage

To start with if you put your RV in storage it's a good idea to remove the batteries and put them in storage too. When you're removing the batteries always remember to remove the negative terminal first. Clean the batteries with a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water if necessary. Store the batteries in a cool dry place but not where they could freeze. Batteries in storage will loose their charge. Check the state of charge every month and charge batteries that are at or below 80 percent state of charge.

Check and fill the water levels in all batteries that are not maintenance free. Check the electrolyte level and add distilled water if necessary.

Charge all batteries as required. A discharged or partially charged battery will freeze much faster than a charged battery.

Remove and clean all battery terminals and posts. Spray the terminals with terminal dressing to protect against corrosion.

If you plan to start the unit while in storage, and to periodically plug the unit into shore power leave the batteries in the unit. Plugging it into shore power once a month for about eight hours will keep the coach batteries topped off.

If you put the unit in long-term storage; remove and store the batteries where they will not freeze. In either case keep the batteries charged.

During short-term storage, start the unit monthly and run it with the dash air on for at least 30 minutes.

If you don't plan on starting the unit, or won't be able to start it, buy some fogging oil from a marine supply store to protect the cylinder walls. When the unit is parked where it will be stored, spray the fogging oil into the engine intake downstream from the air filter with the engine at an idle. Complete the same steps on the generator. Follow the manufacturer's directions. DO NOT USE THIS PRODUCT IN A DIESEL ENGINE

Fill the fuel tank prior to storage and add a fuel stabilizer. Run the engine and the generator long enough for the stabilizer to get through the system. Follow the manufacturer's directions.

If the unit is not in long-term storage, exercise the generator at least two hours each month. Run the generator at 3/4 rated load. Consult your generator set owners manual for rated loads.

Change the oil and oil filter on the engine and the generator prior to storage. Acids accumulate in used oil and can corrode engine bearings.

Check the engine radiator for the proper concentration of antifreeze. Consult your owner's manual for the correct type of engine antifreeze. Drain, flush and refill the system every two to three years.

Drain the windshield washer reservoir or add the appropriate antifreeze solution to prevent it from freezing.

Perform full chassis lubrication prior to storage.

Now your RV is truly winterized and hopefully you won't experience any problems when you perform your spring maintenance checks next year.

Learn more about using your RV and its operation with Mark Polk's best-selling DVDs, books and eBooks.

How to operate your RV awning properly

2007-09-30T09:28:00.000-07:00

RV awnings vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, and there are many awning manufacturers. This is the awning operation checklist from my Checklists for RVers E-book. The purpose of this checklist is to give you a basic guide to follow when opening and storing the retractable patio awning for your motorhome, travel trailer, fifth wheel trailer or other RV. It may not cover every item as it pertains to your awning; so only use the checks that apply to your RV's particular awning.

Most awnings have some type of travel locks about midway up, on both main awning arms. These locks assist in storing the awning to the side of the RV while traveling. Release these locking mechanisms.

Behind both main awning arms, on the support arms, there will be a knob that should be hand tight. Loosen both of these knobs. Look up at the end of the awning roller tube on the right hand side, towards the front of the RV. You will see a small lever. This lever is what locks the roller tube to the side of the RV. Take your awning rod and with the hooked end reach up and pull the lever down to release the roller tube.

Look up, around the middle of the roller tube, and you should see the end of the awning strap, with a loop in it. With the hook end of your awning rod reach up and hook the awning strap loop. Using the awning rod, pull the awning strap down until you can reach it with your hand. The awning roller tube should release and pull freely from both ends. Continue pulling down on the strap until the awning fabric and tube are fully extended. Now, the inner support arms, where you loosened the knobs, should slide freely to the top of the main arms and lock into place. Do this on both ends. When they are locked in place, starting on either end, take one hand and pull down on the main awning arm until the awning fabric is taught. With your other hand reach up and hand tighten the knob. Repeat this on the other end.

On the side of each main arm you will notice a lever. Starting on either end of the awning, take one hand and put it on the front of the main arm and take the lever with your other hand. Raise the main arm up to the height you want the awning, using the lever to help lift it. When you lower the lever it will lock into the closest adjusting hole on the arm where you release it. Repeat this on the other end.

Caution: Do not get your fingers or hands close to any moving or sliding parts.

Retracting your Patio Awning
Put one hand on the front of the main awning arm and the other hand on the lever on the side of the arm. As soon as you pull out on the lever the awning arm will begin to lower. Caution: keep fingers and hands away from moving and sliding awning parts. Using the lever for support slowly lower the main arm until it stops. Repeat on the other end.

Reach up and loosen the knob on one of the support arms. On the front of the main arm, towards the top, pull the release latch out that is locking the support arm in place. Holding the latch out begin to slide the support arm down the main arm. Continue to slide it all the way down until it stops. Repeat on the other end. Again watch your fingers.

If you are retracting the awning by yourself take your awning rod in one hand and with your other hand take the awning strap and slide it all the way down the awning tube, to where the awning lock lever is located, towards the front of the RV.

Pull down on the awning strap, applying enough pressure, until you can release the awning lock lever. Caution: as soon as the lever is released the awning tube will begin to retract. These tubes have springs that are wound with tension. Hold the strap securely and release the locking lever. Continue to hold the strap firmly and work it back to the middle of the awning tube by sliding it in the groove.

When the awning strap is close to the middle of the roller tube slowly let the awning begin to retract by easing off the awning strap. Place the hook end of the awning rod into the loop of the strap and continue to retract the awning until it is in the stored position. Do not let go of the strap too early. The awning can violently hit the side of the RV causing damage to the awning and/or the RV.

Secure the travel locks on both main arms and hand tighten both knobs on the back of the support arms.

Awning Tip: If somebody is assisting you the 3rd and 4th steps are much easier. Locate the awning strap in the middle of the awning tube. Have the person assisting you hold tension on the strap while you release the awning lock lever. Then, using the awning rod the person assisting you can slowly allow the awning to retract.

Well that about does it. With the proper care and a little preventive maintenance you and your RV awnings will have it made in the shade.

Learn more about using your RV and its operation with Mark Polk's best-selling DVDs, books and eBooks.

Follow these steps to winterize your RV

2007-09-23T09:27:00.000-07:00

Fall is the time of year when many RVers lock up their RV for the cold-weather season ahead. Parking your RV for the winter requires some preventive measures so it will be ready to use next spring. You'll also be glad you did it when you don't have costly repair bills due to the damaging results of winter. Now the question is how do you prepare your recreational vehicle for winter, and who will be doing it? If you're like me and you enjoy performing the routine maintenance on your RV, not to mention saving a few dollars, the "who" part is answered. As for the "how" part, this checklist is the same one I used to make my Winterizing & Storing DVD. I feel it is the easiest and most effective way to winterize your RV.

Before you get started there are a few items you will need. They can be found in most RV parts stores:

*Non-toxic RV antifreeze (the amount depends on the layout and length of your plumbing lines. Two to three gallons will normally do).

*A water heater by-pass kit, if not already installed.

*A water pump converter kit, or tubing to connect to the inlet side of the water pump.

*Basic hand tools to remove drain plugs.

Now we can winterize the RV water system to protect it from freezing. Be sure to read your owners manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines. Follow the steps below that apply to your RV.

*If you have any inline water filters remove and bypass them before starting.

*Drain the fresh water holding tank.

*Drain and flush the gray and black holding tanks. Clean the black tank with a wand. Lubricate the termination valves.

*Drain the water heater. CAUTION: Never drain when hot or under pressure.

*Open all hot and cold faucets; don't forget the toilet valve and outside shower.

*Locate and open low point drain lines. Using the water pump will help force water out, but turn it off as soon as the system is drained.

*Recap all drains and close all faucets.

*By-pass the water heater. If you do not have a by-pass kit installed the water heater will fill up with antifreeze before it goes through the water lines, wasting six gallons of antifreeze.

*Install a water pump converter kit, or disconnect the inlet side of the pump (the line coming from the fresh water holding tank) and connect tubing from the pump into a gallon of RV antifreeze.

*Turn the water pump on and pressurize the system. Starting with the closest faucet slowly open the hot and then cold valves until antifreeze appears. Replace antifreeze jug as required.

*Repeat on all faucets from the closest to farthest away. Don't forget the outside shower.

*Flush the toilet until antifreeze appears.

*Turn the water pump off and open a faucet to release the pressure. Go to the city water inlet.

*Remove the small screen over the inlet and push in on the valve with a small screwdriver until you see antifreeze. Replace the screen.

*Pour a cupful of antifreeze down each drain. Pour a few cups in the toilet and flush into the holding tank.

*If your water heater has an electric heating element turn it off. This will protect the element if the unit is plugged in while being stored.

*Make sure all faucets are closed.

*Consult your owner manuals for winterizing ice makers and washing machines.

Your RV is winterized!

This checklist is a basic guide that was intended to assist you in winterizing your RV. As with many other checklists it would be impossible to cover every RV. It is extremely important that you read your owners manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines. --Mark Polk

Learn more about using your RV and its operation with Mark Polk's best-selling DVDs, books and eBooks.

How to extend the life of an RV battery

2007-09-04T10:01:00.000-07:00

How long your RV batteries last depends on how you use them. Factors include how they're used, how well they're maintained, how they're discharged, how they're re-charged, and how they are stored. A battery cycle is one complete discharge from 100 percent down to about 50 percent and then re-charged back to 100 percent.

One important factor to battery life is how deep the battery is cycled each time. If the battery is discharged to 50 percent everyday it will last twice as long as it would if its cycled to 80 percent. Keep this in mind when you consider a batteries amp hour rating. The amp hour rating is really cut in half because you don't want to completely discharge the battery before recharging it. The life expectancy depends on how soon a discharged battery is recharged. The sooner it is recharged the better.

What does all of this mean to you? That depends on how you use your RV. If most of your camping is done where you're plugged into an electrical source then your main concern is simply to properly maintain your deep cycle batteries. But if you like to do some serious dry-camping you'll want the highest amp hour capacities you can fit on your RV.

Deep cycle batteries come in different sizes. Some are designated by group size, like Group 24, 27 and 31. Basically the larger the battery the more amp hours you get. Depending on your needs and the amount of space you have available, there are several options when it comes to batteries. You can use one 12-volt Group 24 deep cycle battery that provides 70 to 85 amp hours or you can use two or more 12-volt batteries wired in parallel. Parallel wiring increases amp hours but not voltage.

If you have the room you can do what a lot of RVers do and switch from the standard 12-volt batteries to two of the larger 6-volt golf cart batteries. These pairs of 6-volt batteries need to be wired in series to produce the required 12-volts. Series wiring increases voltage but not amp hours. If this still doesn't satisfy your requirements you can build larger battery banks using four 6-volt batteries wired in series/parallel that will give you 12-volts and double your AH capacity. --Mark Polk

Learn more about using your RV and its operation with Mark Polk's best-selling DVDs, books and eBooks.

Trailer sway is dangerous, be careful

2007-08-30T23:19:00.000-07:00

Yaw, more commonly known as sway in the RV industry, is a bad word for trailer owners. The definition of yaw or sway is a side-to-side movement. Nothing will ruin the way you feel about camping faster than the first time you experience trailer sway.

You have tent camped for years and now you decide its time to move up to a pop-up. You go to your local dealership and find a pop-up with the perfect floor plan for you and your family. The sales person knows that it will be close to the maximum weight that your vehicle can tow. He really needs a sale because things have been slow. Rather than risk losing the sale he decides not to explain the added expense of the proper hitch work to safely tow your new trailer.

Video: Losing a trailer for any reason when you tow it can turn into a disaster.

You're all packed up for a weekend getaway. You made all of your pre-trip checks and you're eager to leave. You load the most precious cargo you have, your family, into your tow vehicle and head out. Everything seems fine. You take the on-ramp to the interstate. You're cruising at the speed limit enjoying the music on the radio. Suddenly out of nowhere a transfer truck going 20 miles per hour over the speed limit is passing you as if you're sitting still. The pop-up is pulled into the draft created by the truck. In an attempt to correct this totally unexpected event you over steer and the trailer begins to go the opposite direction. Not really sure what to do you hit the brakes and turn the steering wheel to the left, then to the right. Now, that one-ton trailer behind your sport utility vehicle is veering sharply from side to side and begins to affect what little control you have over the vehicle. The results are catastrophic.

Ok, since this is just an article, lets start over and fix this before you even realize there's a potential problem. You purchased your pop-up from a reputable local RV dealership. At the risk of losing the sale your sales person explains that you will require some specialized hitch work to pull your new trailer safely. You are a bit skeptical, feeling like they just want more of your money. Besides, your father never needed any of this stuff. He just hooked the trailer unto the ball and went.

You decide to give the sales person the benefit of doubt and listen for a minute. He shows you in his book that your tow vehicle is rated to tow a maximum of 3,500 pounds. Then he explains what you must factor in to that tow rating. It includes the weight of your new camper, any after market accessories, like the roof mounted air conditioner and battery the dealership is going to install, all of the cargo and personal belongings that you load in the trailer and in the tow vehicle, and the weight of the passengers in the vehicle. Now all of the sudden the sales person has your undivided attention. You had no idea that all of this had to be considered.

He shows you the weight label on your new trailer. The unloaded vehicle weight (UVW) is 2,100 pounds. The air conditioner weighs 100 pounds and the deep cycle battery weighs 50 pounds. To be safe he estimates that you will carry about 300 pounds of cargo, and then adds another 300 pounds for your wife and two children. You are amazed how fast things add up.

Now you have 2,850 pounds instead of the 2100 pounds that you thought it was. It isn't over yet. Your sales person starts to explain that every state has different requirements on how much a trailer can weigh before it requires trailer brakes. In your state the weight is 3,000 lbs., but your dealership has brakes installed on any trailer they order that weighs over 2,000 pounds. He explains that even though your vehicle is rated to tow 3,500 pounds the brakes on the vehicle were designed to safely stop the vehicles weight, not an additional ton and a half being pulled behind it.

HE TAKES YOU to the parts department and shows you a brake controller and explains that this is what activates the trailer brakes and the dealership will install it when they do the wiring for the trailer lights. You like the features that he explained about the brake controller. The fact that you can manually adjust the amount of braking action so that when you hit the brake pedal the tow vehicle and the trailer work together to stop the weight in a reasonable amount of time. What you really like is the part he explained about the manual override lever that activates the trailer brakes without using the vehicle brakes.

He said if you're on a steep grade and you don't want to prematurely wear out the vehicle brakes you slowly slide the lever and the trailer brakes will slow you down. But what really sold you on it was when he explained that if the trailer starts to sway you could gently move the lever, activating the trailer brakes, to help straighten the trailer out. He went on to explain that trailer sway is one of the biggest potential problems that you can encounter while towing a trailer. He points out some of the factors that contribute to trailer sway.

First and foremost poor trailer design contributes to trailer sway. When there is too much weight behind the trailers axles causing the tongue weight to be less than 10% of the trailers weight it has a natural tendency to sway.

--Incorrect tire inflation
--Improper weight distribution hitch adjustments
--No sway control on the trailer
--Crosswinds
--A transfer truck passing from the rear of the trailer
--Descending inclines
--Towing speeds
--Tow vehicle not properly matched for the trailer
--Improper loading, overloading and poor weight distribution

He took the time to explain that for the trailer to pull properly the manufacturer recommends that the tongue weight resting on the ball mount should be 10 to 15% of the total trailer weight. He said if it is more than 15% they have what is called a weight distribution hitch that takes the additional tongue weight and distributes it to the axles on the tow vehicle and the trailer where it should be, and if it is less than 10% when you load your cargo you distribute it to add some additional weight on the tongue. He looked up the pop-up you were buying in the brochure and the tongue weight was 305 pounds. With the air conditioner installed and your cargo loaded you would be between the 10 to 15% range. He explained that a weight distribution hitch was more commonly used with heavier trailers and in some cases with pop-ups depending on the tow vehicle, but in this case it would not be required.

The next thing he asked was if your vehicle had a receiver. You reply, do you mean a hitch? He explains that the part that is bolted to the vehicle is called a receiver, and he shows you a chart that has several different classes of receivers depending on the amount of weight you will be towing. The class II receiver was rated for 3,500 lb. gross trailer weight and 300 lb. max tongue weight. For a small difference in price he recommended a class III receiver rated for 5,000 lb. gross trailer weight and 500 lb. max tongue weight since your trailers tongue weight exceeded 300 lbs.

WITH THAT DONE he said let me show you the one component that our dealership strongly recommends to anyone purchasing a pop-up. He walked over and picked up a part from the shelf. This is called a friction sway control. We mount one end of it to the ball mount and the other end to the tongue on the camper. You adjust the amount of friction by turning the lever clockwise for more friction and counter clockwise for less friction. He explained that you turn it in 1/8 increments until you get it adjusted where you feel comfortable. This will not totally eliminate sway, but once the forces of sway are in motion it will dampen the sway and help you control it when you're towing your camper.

Well, he said, that about does it. For less than 10% of the price of the pop-up you can get all of the hitch work done and ensure that your family is safe when you go on a trip. At this point you're convinced that the sales person has your best interest in mind and was not just trying to make more money.

You're all packed up for the first weekend getaway with your new pop-up. You make all of the pre-trip checks that the dealership explained to you and you're ready to go. You load the most precious cargo you have, your family, into your vehicle and head out on a new venture. You take the on ramp to the interstate. You're cruising at the speed limit enjoying the music on the radio. Suddenly out of nowhere a transfer truck going 20 miles over the speed limit passes you as if I you're sitting still. You feel a slight movement behind you. It was just enough to remind you that you're pulling the pop-up. You look at you're watch and tell the family that you should be at the campground in a couple of hours.

Knowing how to react when a trailer begins to sway can be the difference between your safety and disaster. -- Mark Polk

Learn how to tow your trailer the safe and easy way. In his best-selling DVD RV expert Mark Polk shows you everything you need to know about towing, weights, hitch work and backing. Essential viewing for new trailer owners. Learn more or order.

RV Refrigerators: cools like a home model but differently

2007-08-21T21:59:00.000-07:00

The refrigerator in your RV operates off LP gas or electricity. Its different from the refrigerator in your house. An RV refrigerator doesn't have a compressor, or any moving parts for that matter. It works off of the principle of absorption. Instead of applying cold directly, the heat is drawn out, or absorbed. The theory is, when there is an absence of heat there is cold. Basically your RV refrigerator uses heat, either from an electric heating element or LP gas flame. The heat starts a chemical reaction and then through evaporation and condensation causes it to cool. It also works off of gravity, freezing the freezer compartment first and then dropping down to the refrigerator compartment.

The initial cool down process can take four to six hours. You should turn the refrigerator on the day before you plan to leave on a trip, and before you put any food in it. When you do load the refrigerator the food you put in should already be cold, and the food put in the freezer should already be frozen. Putting cold food in the refrigerator, rather than adding warm food, lets the refrigerator work more efficiently. One common mistake made is to over pack the refrigerator. There has to be space between the foods to allow for air to circulate throughout the compartment. In most situations you will have access to a store where you can buy food. A two to three day supply should be enough.

Try to limit the amount of times you open the refrigerator or freezer doors and the length of time you leave the doors open. Every time the door is opened it loses a few degrees of heat. On a hot summer day it won't take long to lose all of its cooling capacity. --Mark Polk

Learn more about using your RV and its operation with Mark Polk's best-selling DVDs, books and eBooks.

How to keep your RV freshwater safe to drink

2007-08-21T13:54:00.001-07:00

Here are some ways to ensure your RV water system is safe to use. There are no guarantees that any water is completely safe to drink, but if we take certain precautions we can keep our RV water system safe to use. So where do we start? Let's take a look.

The water system in your RV provides the water that you drink from and the water you use to wash dishes and take showers with. We cannot assume that it will stay safe and fresh like the water system in our home. Contaminated water is extremely dangerous. We not only have to deal with a water system that hasn't been used for sometime, but when we travel in the RV we hook our water system up to a different water source every time we stop to spend the night some where. We hook up to city water, well water, and eventually contaminated water. You've probably heard people say don't drink the water if you go to Mexico. Well that can be true anywhere. We stopped at a campground one night just to get a few hours of sleep and I didn't bother to use the water filter. The water coming out of the faucet was cloudy and had small particles suspended in it.

Possibly the most important step you can take is to keep the fresh water system sanitized. At a minimum you should sanitize the system every spring when you take the RV out of storage and any time you notice stale water or an odor. Its really quite simple to do.

You can start by draining the water heater. Go to the outside compartment where the water heater is located. The drain plug, or pet*censored* is located in the bottom left hand corner. Remove the plug and open the pressure relief valve on top of the water heater to assist in draining. CAUTION: NEVER drain the water heater when its hot or under pressure.

Next you need to locate the low point water line drains. It may take a while to find them, but I assure you they are there. There will be one for the hot and one for the cold water lines. This is the lowest point in the water system. Open these and let the water drain out.

Now, find the drain for the fresh water holding tank and drain all of the water from it. At this point you can turn the water pump on for a moment to force any remaining water out. Do not let the pump continue to run once the water stops draining. Close all of the drains. What we have accomplished so far was to evacuate the majority of water from the system.

Now take a quarter cup of house hold bleach for every fifteen gallons of water that your fresh water tank holds. Mix the bleach, with water, into a one-gallon container and pour it into the fresh water holding tank.

Fill the fresh water tank almost completely full of water. Turn the water pump on, open all hot and cold faucets and run the water until you smell the bleach at each faucet. Close the faucets. If its possible drive the RV or pull the trailer so the water can move around to assist in cleaning the entire tank. Let it sit for at least 12 hours. Drain the entire system again and re-fill the fresh water tank with potable water.

Open all of the faucets and run the water until you no longer smell any bleach. It may be necessary to repeat this process again to eliminate all signs of bleach from the water system. Once this is done it is safe to use your water system.

If you follow these simple steps you can rest assured that the fresh water system in your RV truly is fresh. -- Mark Polk

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