Radalog

Stoked Reading Material

2009-11-12T13:42:00.000-08:00

Just Havin' Fun

2009-10-19T13:32:00.000-07:00

Texture

2009-10-06T12:59:00.000-07:00

Wind was offshore this morning, waves were inconsistent but fun. Air was remarkably cold, fall is definitely here. Here are a few black and whites that show the various textures of a Southern California autumn.

Trim

2009-09-29T05:09:00.000-07:00

Small days with clean conditions lead to some smooth trimmin.

Paths

2009-09-17T14:52:00.000-07:00

I just returned from a trip up north and scored some good waves. While returning from one of the better waves in the area, I noticed how beautiful the path back to the road was. I snapped a few pictures to share with you here. If you've been fortunate enough to lay sights on this trail after catching a few drainers, you'll recognize this trail immediately. Tread lightly.

Mysto

2009-09-09T14:07:00.000-07:00

Sidewalk Surfing

2009-09-03T08:18:00.000-07:00

Maiden Voyage

2009-08-26T12:13:00.000-07:00

Great album by Herbie Hancock.

I also made my Maiden Voyage in the "Blue Dream" Baja mobile to Punta XXX with 3 friends. The drive was long and at times scary. The vibe was very hostile, and for parts of the trip safety was the primary concern for the group. Fluent spanish skills and a calm temperament eased us through one particularly sticky situation. Nevertheless, we were rewarded with some great waves in a very remote part of Baja California.

Fences everywhere.

Guns everywhere. This shot below almost got me in big trouble. That guy is wielding an RPG mounted on top of a Humvee. I then got to feel an M16 up against my scapula.

Sunset perfection.

Mysto left on fire.

Glass on fins work the best.

Livin' the Blue Dream.

Setting up for the barrel section.

Got fish?

Mi hijo

2009-08-21T22:24:00.000-07:00

Das Adventurewagen ist wunderbar

2009-08-12T18:31:00.000-07:00

I don't know exactly why but the idea of cruising up the highway, bumping an old Black Uhuru cassette tape in this VW van seems very appealing to me.

Sugar on the Asphalt

2009-07-29T10:03:00.001-07:00

A few pics from the mayhem that was a well broadcast weekend south swell in sunny Southern California.

-Sunday Afternoon at Chumash Creek-

-Friday Evening at Roseville Reefs-

Hype

2009-07-15T16:26:00.000-07:00

Summer Love

2009-07-08T15:54:00.000-07:00

Normally I hate summer. Since I was about 16 I've been under the impression that summer sucks for surf (and I grew up in Oceanside!) Sure the water was warm and there were some epic days of combo swells, but most of summer was walled or flat and always crowded. I would prefer a good day in fall or winter every day of the week. As I've grown older and moved further south, I've only become more sour on the madness that is summer. Living in Point Loma their is a paucity of quality summer breaks around and their is no shortage of surfers. Last summer was the worst in years and I was ready to call it quits during August. I was determined to surf only in the months of Oct-May give or take a few swells.

But this April was an amazing time to surf in South San Diego and the it seems like we had nonstop windswell waves well into May. Since then we've been graced with an extremely consistent run of south swells which have kept me in the water at least 5 days a weeks. More importantly it seems as if the crowds haven't been quite as bad as they have during the last few summers. I surfed fun chest high waves today with offshore winds in North County with 12 guys out. I got about 15 waves in just under an hour and several head-ducks/tuberides. It's real tough to argue with that in early July ( it's easy to argue with the water temp right now, brr.)

So I've decided to show summer some love because of all the love it's shown for me in the recent weeks. BTW, summer nights have always been good to me :)

Anxiety Control pt 2

2009-06-30T20:06:00.000-07:00

Finished this recycled egg/funboard thing in time for the recent run of south swell. It looks kinda funny, but paddles like crazy. And it actually surfs pretty well, but forces you to draw a pretty long lines, swoop and carve mood for sure. Got some good ones at several reefs, beaches and points across multiple area codes during the last few weeks.

7'2ish x 20ish x 2 & 1/2ish, give or take a few. Click here to see how it used to look.

Bucket

2009-06-23T13:25:00.000-07:00

I'm trying to post something every Tuesday in order to satisfy the neverending demand of my enourmous readership.

This is the definition of a bucket.

Threading it down the line

2009-06-16T14:47:00.000-07:00

Wes Montgomery keeps it real

2009-06-10T20:22:00.000-07:00

Radical Aliens

2009-06-02T15:34:00.000-07:00

Lineups in Black and White

2009-05-14T18:47:00.000-07:00

Uber-consistent wind swell and light winds??? meant some good waves went unridden during the last few weeks.

My answer to summer flat spells...

2009-05-04T21:32:00.000-07:00

Very mellow way to spend the arvo.

North

2009-04-18T13:15:00.000-07:00

I was fortunate to go on an extended roadtrip to Northern California with my wife and son. People always try to scare you about NorCal, especially when you get north of the bridge. They say "It's Cold, It's Sharky, It's Heavy, It's Windy, It's Localized, etc." While all these things are true ( especially the cold part), you can still score up north if you know the rules of the game and are willing to excercise patience. I scored lot's of barrels, and lot's of wide open space. Here are a fewer of the choice images from the trip.

W.O.R.

2009-04-09T11:04:00.000-07:00

I don't know I how I stumbled upon this site but I did. It's good to see people commited to the cause of all things rad. These people surf (quite well) too.

www.warriorsofradness.com

I think I'm going to pick up a sweatshirt to sport around town.

The Van Gods Approve

2009-03-22T21:16:00.001-07:00

I see this car in the lot everyonce in awhile and I find myself humming songs by Heart.

Good Waves and Light Crowds

2009-03-20T18:27:00.000-07:00

Happy Birthday to me. I'm embarrassed to mention how good I got some waves this week with less than 5 people out. Everyone must of quit surfing during February and forgotten to check the beach. The powers that be had listed these days as small and windy, when in fact they were head high and glassy. I knew there was a reason I live less than a mile from the beach...

Simmons Inspired, Skip Approved

2009-02-03T13:19:00.001-08:00

I haven't been surfing much in the last month and a half. I scored some great waves north of Point Conception during the second and third week of January, but had my camera (and CD's) jacked at our campsite. That sucked. Since I've been back in SD, the waves have been crap but I've managed to keep busy doing other random stuff.

I ran into Chris from Surf Indian today and he had this board on his roof. I asked him if I could take a couple pictures. 9 footish and shaped by Steve Mast, it was really different looking with a huge single concave, quasi-step deck and beautifully foiled Geppys. He said it went great and wasn't as wierd as he had anticipated. He also mentioned that he let Skip have a few on it and it was given the official stamp of approval.

I'd like to try this board at a long lined up point, with predominate side/offshore winds and a concave pocket. I could see it beeing really fast.