tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-43045391757350949222009-02-21T07:57:52.734-08:00Marcucio GardensMike Marcuciohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16581925090028807624noreply@blogger.comBlogger9125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4304539175735094922.post-28813815437250074712008-09-20T18:06:00.000-07:002008-09-20T18:12:51.197-07:00Did you knowMarcucio Gardens has been nominated for the Connecticut Family Business of the Year Award! This award is given by the University of Connecticut Center for Family Business.<br /><br />Keep your fingers crossed, the winners are chosen on November 13, 2008!<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4304539175735094922-2881381543725007471?l=marcuciogardens.blogspot.com'/></div>Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18009338388256004458noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4304539175735094922.post-37558466994072502502008-07-22T04:52:00.000-07:002008-07-22T04:59:34.522-07:00Some Old Values are Still The Best<span style="font-weight: bold;">The following was taken from Rick Segel & Associates newsletter. It is very interesting and I hope you enjoy:</span><br /><br />I lost one of my best friends at 7:08 on Friday morning July 18th. My Uncle Ben, my godfather died of pneumonia at the young age of 95. I had been his legal guardian for the past 6 years, after his wife died. Uncle Ben was the embodiment of the American Dream that we all can learn from and all need to be reminded of.<br /><br />My uncle was a Mathematical Savant. He could look at a column of numbers and tell you what they added up to without any hesitation. It was as if he was a magician with numbers. But as bright as he was, he dropped out of school in the 9th grade to go to work to help support his family during the depression. When he was 21 years old, his father was killed in an automobile accident and he and my mother moved the four younger brothers and sisters and mother to the Boston area.<br /><br />He eventually got married, worked hard, saved his money and borrowed from all of his relatives and even a little from the bank to be able to buy a food distribution business. Unfortunately, the business failed within 18 months. He did something that is almost unheard of today. He paid every penny back with interest. It took him 10 years before the last payments were made. He believed that your name, your integrity and what it meant to other people is who you are. He believed in personal BRANDING although he never called it that.<br /><br />He later went on to become successful in commercial real estate beyond what he could have ever imagined. He had an unusual way of negotiating--he didn't. He never would insult or put down what he was buying. Either the deal worked or it didn't work. But to try to beat someone up just for the sake of winning something was not his style. Did sellers come back with lower prices? Yes, but he never asked.<br /><br />Ben believed and taught me something I have lived by. A deal must be good for both parties or it is not good for either party. Life had taught him that nickel and diming could end up hurting the buyer. You get more from a happy seller that one that you just aggravated. He was a hard nosed businessman but always wanted win/win relationships.<br /><br />He also believed that there has to be one person worrying about paying back debts and it had better not be the lender. If someone ever reneged on a commitment that had made, he would never do business with them again. Yes, it was just that simple but that's the reputation or brand he developed. As tempting as other alternatives might have been, he stayed true to his values and believed it was those ideals that made him that successful.<br /><br />Lastly, he was a strong believer in the importance of charity and service to your community. He never respected anyone who didn't give back or ignored the importance of charity. Ben was laid to rest today but the world didn't lose an honorable man because his story will serve as an inspiration and the way to do business for me and the rest of my family for years to come. If you read the definition of the rags to riches story, The American Dream, just think of my Uncle Ben. It was great sharing a life with a man who made a difference.<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Contents copyright 2008 © Rick Segel & Associates · All rights reserved</span><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4304539175735094922-3755846699407250250?l=marcuciogardens.blogspot.com'/></div>Mike Marcuciohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16581925090028807624noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4304539175735094922.post-32857459855649177202008-06-22T05:23:00.000-07:002008-06-22T05:27:00.996-07:00makeoverGet the Marcucio Gardens Makeover!<br />There are 3 Easy Steps to get the curb appeal, patio, backyard living area, or privacy you have always wanted. We have made over thousands of homes so you could trust us to give you sound advice so you can get it done right the first time.<br />1. Bring Photo:<br />Bring in or email us a photo and approximate dimensions of the area you want to makeover<br />2. Design:<br />For no charge, our specialists will help you come up with a design to fit your needs<br />3. Install:<br />You can have our professionals do the installation or we can show you how to do it yourself<br />Call (203) 732-2063 to make an appointment or just stop on down!<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4304539175735094922-3285745985564917720?l=marcuciogardens.blogspot.com'/></div>Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18009338388256004458noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4304539175735094922.post-24765656682545637382008-06-22T05:22:00.000-07:002008-06-22T05:23:01.354-07:00fun stuffAoccdrnig to rscheearch at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoatnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteer be at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a toatl mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit a porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae the huamn mnid deos not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4304539175735094922-2476565668254563738?l=marcuciogardens.blogspot.com'/></div>Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18009338388256004458noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4304539175735094922.post-77192989912732417402007-12-04T12:05:00.001-08:002007-12-04T12:05:45.739-08:00Helpful Hints for Christmas Tree Care<div id="content"> <ul><li>After choosing your tree, keep it in a shaded and sheltered area such as a garage or porch until you are ready to decorate.</li><li>Before you set up your tree, make a fresh 1 inch cut off the base and place the tree in a stand that holds at least a gallon of water.</li><li>Keep the tree stand filled with water. Add a preservative, such as Prolong, to the water. Note: a tree will absorb as much as a gallon of water or more in the first 24 hours.</li><li>Always position your tree away from heat sources like fireplaces, radiators and television sets.</li></ul> <p align="left"><span style="font-size:+2;">Safety Tips</span></p> <ul><li>Refill your stand with warm water daily.</li><li>Always turn your tree lights off when not at home.</li><li>Please recycle, and never burn live cut trees.</li></ul> <p align="left"><span style="font-size:+2;">Decorated Cut Trees</span></p> <ul><li>Keep away from heat sources.</li><li>Mist with water periodically.</li><li>If it has a floral foam center, water to keep moist.</li></ul> </div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4304539175735094922-7719298991273241740?l=marcuciogardens.blogspot.com'/></div>Mike Marcuciohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16581925090028807624noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4304539175735094922.post-26079136302017854402007-08-09T09:07:00.000-07:002007-08-09T09:10:48.831-07:007 deadly sins of landscapingsTaken from msn:<br /><br /><br /><br />7 deadly landscaping sins<br />From unnaturally geometric bushes to skimpy garden beds, our experts save you from your worst landscaping transgressions.By Christopher Solomon<br /><br />Hey, Joe Homeowner: Drop that rake and fall to your knees like the sinner you are.<br /><br />We asked a half-dozen certified landscape designers with the Association of Professional Landscape Designers what crimes against nature they regularly witness in neighborhood yards. And while everyone has his own pet peeves, a clear consensus emerged in the responses.<br /><br />Call them the seven deadly landscaping sins. Don't be surprised if your home is guilty of more than one of the offenses, but fear not. For every transgression, our experts shared at least one way to atone.<br /><br />Sin No. 1: The meatball shrub"One of the things that drives me crazy is the pruning of shrubs into boxes, balls, squares, triangles and rectangles," says Bobbie Schwartz, owner of <a href="http://www.bgthumb.com/">Bobbie's Green Thumb</a> in Shaker Heights, Ohio and author of "<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0971631719/sr=8-1/qid=1154991532/ref=sr_1_1/103-3165377-6019820?ie=UTF8">The Design Puzzle: Putting the Pieces Together</a>" These giant blocks and spheres -- designer Rhonda Smith calls it the "meatball look" -- often occur close to the house. "That's why a lot of houses look like fortresses," says Schwartz, who lectures nationally on landscape design. "You can't see the windows, you can't find the doors. It makes for a very unwelcoming exterior."<br /><br />How to atone: "I really think the trend is toward very natural, ecological landscapes," Schwartz says, echoing several designers. Sometimes large shrubs are aggressively manicured because they're simply too large for where they've been placed and they need to be removed, says Smith, owner of Exteriors in Merrimac, Mass. <br /><br />But depending on the plant and its location, you may be able to let a shrub simply grow out and prune it more naturally, Smith says. Inexperienced homeowners usually just cut the newest growth on a bush to tame it. But instead, try taking out perhaps one third (at most) of the older wood in a lilac or other quickly growing plant, which allows the newer wood to be the dominant part of the plant and lets it grow in a more organic form.<br /><br />If you're not an experienced gardener, and don't want to learn, don't expect a standard "mow and blow" company to do this for you, says Deanna Glory, of <a href="http://www.glorydesign.com/">Deanna Glory Landscape Design</a> in the San Francisco Bay area. Invest in a true gardening service -- or expect more meatballs. Sin No. 2: Marching flowers"Soldiering" -- the act of running single plants or flowers in a file beside a sidewalk or driveway -- is "out of fashion," says Mary Donovan, owner of <a href="http://www.donovandesign.net/">Donovan Design</a> in the Atlanta area. Why? It looks odd and unnatural to have a single flower occurring by itself -- and nature doesn't work in strict rows, anyway.<br /><br />How to atone: "Now we plant in mass groupings, more like nature does," says Donovan. "Bunched together, in a bouquet effect, that attracts the eye." Shrubs, annuals, perennials -- everything can work this way. To accommodate this, beds can often break from the linear mold, too, and be more rounded and shapely.<br /><br />"The only time you want 'one-sies,'" Donovan says, is with "a specimen plant. And that's usually a tree. You want it to stand out all by itself."<br /><br />Sin No. 3: Dyed mulch "When I'm driving around, the first thing I react to is those new, strongly colored mulches, because the eye is drawn to those first, not the plants first," Donovan says about the reddish-orange, dyed mulch that has grown popular in the past five to seven years. "It really can stick out in the landscape. It doesn't look natural."<br /><br />How to atone: Stick to natural mulch, and take your color cues from the natural ground materials of the area in which you live, Donovan says. For example, in the South, she suggests using pine nuggets, or chewed-up pieces of pine bark, or pine straw. "The landscaping is meant to do two things: one is to anchor the man-made structure to the land and the other is complement it," she reminds. "Mulch should be forgotten. It should not come forward to the eye."<br /><br />Sin No. 4: Too much -- of everything Just as many people clutter the inside of their houses, they clutter the landscaping with too much stuff in too many hues. "In their attempt to beautify they don't know what to choose, and so they impulse buy," says designer Smith. "And they do this potpourri of everything."<br /><br />The upshot? "They'll get this hodgepodge effect," says Donovan, who sees it often. But using lots of colors all over the place "produces chaos," she says. "That's too busy for the eye. It's like wearing too much jewelry." And often all of the colors don't complement the home -- one of landscaping's chief goals.<br /><br />How to atone: First, don't be scattershot. "I think one of the top things that people need to remember is to keep it simple," Smith says. "Buy five, seven, 11 of something, and combine it with another plant" and you'll get a lot more visual bang for your buck.<br /><br />A very effective way to create unity with color is to use a monochromatic scheme -- that is, a scheme in which everything is related to one color, Donovan says. For instance, "You could work in the purple family -- purples and plums and lavenders." Some plants that would work in that scheme: loropetalum, an evergreen shrub with burgundy-colored leaves; camellias; clematis; Japanese maple; and Knockout Rose, a soft blue-red rose that's disease resistant and is very popular in the South right now, Donovan says.<br /><br />Want a little more color? Donovan recommends a simple complementary color scheme: using two colors that are opposite each other on the color wheel, such as purple and yellow, for instance. "And you can always mix white in," she says.<br /><br />Sin No. 5: Bad proportions Many homeowners don't have a good sense of what fits in their landscaping. In many cases, "People use things that are too small," says Daniel Lowery, a garden designer, consultant and owner of <a href="http://www.queenannegardens.com/">Queen Anne Gardens</a> in Seattle. "It could be everything from trees, to shrubs, to containers."<br />Designer Smith recalls not long ago seeing, in front of a home and its large expanse of lawn, a prominent lamppost "with this teeny, tiny lamp at the top of the post."<br /><br />Often, when people plant trees in their yards they make small islands -- too small -- that at 3 or 4 feet wide look adrift in the yard, with single flowers like polka dots, says Patrick Bones, owner of <a href="http://www.brightonlandscapes.com/">Brighton Landscape & Design</a> in Tulsa, Okla. "For lack of a better professional word, it just looks twinky," says Bones, who is president-elect of the Association of Professional Landscape Designers.<br /><br />Proportion cuts both ways. Recently, Bones saw in mid-town Tulsa, home to many old oil barons' mansions, a yard in which a landscaper had had plopped down giant landscaping boulders and a water feature. "It looks terrible. It's too bad, because they spent so much money," Bones says. "Those are the ones where I drive by and I just want to cry." Proportionality extends to keeping a home somewhat in the realm of the neighborhood's aesthetic, Bones believes.<br /><br />How to atone:• Trees: "Houses are big, and trees should be bigger than houses," pronounces Lowery. "A small tree is 20 feet tall." Plant a tree that will mature into a grand addition, he suggests. "It's better to plant a younger tree. It's easier and less expensive, and there's a higher success rate."<br />• Pots and containers: "Containers, decorative pots, less than 24 inches tall and in diameter are a waste of money," Lowery says. "One or two big containers are much more dramatic than several 'wiener' pots," he says. Pots smaller than that look too small against the house and aren't good for plants anyway. "If someone's looking for compliments," he adds, "they'll get an 'oooh' out of a big pot; they won't get a compliment out of a little pot."<br />• Islands: If you've got a mid-yard island, expand its area threefold, and give those single plants some company, Bones suggests. <br />• Picture it: Wondering whether that lamp or fountain will work in front of your home? Don't guess; bring a picture of your house to the store, the experts advise.<br /><br />Sin No. 6: Skinny sidewalks "Another one that drives me crazy is the narrow, 'contractor' sidewalk," says Schwartz, referring to the standard-issue residential sidewalk usually installed by a contractor when the home is built. That sidewalk is only wide enough for one person, shoots straight off the driveway and usually leaves room for only a narrow planting bed between sidewalk and house.<br />"Layering," the important work of placing two to three different groupings of plants of different heights and textures, can't be done in such a cramped space. A frustrated homeowner usually resorts to passé soldiering, Schwartz says.<br /><br />In addition, says designer Glory, a concrete slab is invariably drab and excruciatingly boring: "It looks unfinished."<br /><br />How to atone: Schwartz recommends widening, and meandering, the approach to your home. "It should be welcoming, it should be enjoyable, it could even be an adventure, depending on how it's designed and planted," she says.<br /><br />The material itself needs to be spiced up, too, Glory says. "There's so much fun stuff you can do with concrete these days." Colors can be mixed into it (integral concrete); acid staining can give an old world look; and stamping can give concrete the very realistic look of stone, for example.<br /><br />Sin No. 7: House-hugging plants and their bad beds "Most homeowners plant way too close to their home," Bones says. "It's like pieces of furniture pushed up against the wall." One reason for this may be that homeowners confine themselves to the shallow beds that surround most suburban homes. To landscape designers, these beds – installed for reasons of haste and expense by contractors -- are like fingernails on a chalkboard. "In a lot of homes the beds look like Band-Aids, instead of skirts" that would flatter the edifice, Schwartz says. And when homeowners jam plants and shrubs into them, they're overcrowded to boot.<br /><br />How to atone: First, deepen those beds. A general rule of thumb is to extend planting beds adjacent to a house out about one- or two-thirds of the house's height at that location. When you're in the home you should be able to see out into the beds, Smith says.<br /><br />Next, "You need to pull the shrubs away from the wall,” Bones says. You should be able to walk between your plants and your wall. If you do opt for foundation plants, plant a dwarf variety that will not grow too large and intrude upon the house, Smith suggests.<br /> And if you’ve got existing gigantic plants that are smothering your windows? Consider the hatchet. "We're doing one today," says designer Bones. "Ripping everything out that the builder put in."<br /><br />Finally, get away from the everyday, suggests Schwartz. "I hate normal foundation plantings," she says of the ho-hum evergreens and hostas that everyone uses.<br />Add textural contrast to give your home's exterior an updated look, she says. Think trees with interesting leaves such as sweet gum and acanthus, for example. "What you want is the contrast, so that all the leaves don't look the same." Schwartz says. "I would add ornamental grasses, I would add flowering deciduous shrubs, I would add perennials."<br /><br />One final piece of adviceDraw up a plan before remodeling your home's landscape, so the final result will have a unity and coherence to it, and you can tackle pieces one at a time.<br />Tackle a plan yourself, or consider hiring a landscape designer. Cost of a plan from a designer ranges, depending on region and on the scale, from about $500 to $750 in the South to $1,000 to $2,500 in the Northeast. .<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4304539175735094922-2607913630201785440?l=marcuciogardens.blogspot.com'/></div>Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18009338388256004458noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4304539175735094922.post-41170963903808935512007-08-04T14:39:00.000-07:002007-08-04T14:41:36.866-07:00list of deer resistant plantsList of Deer resistant plants<br />Scientific Name<br />Abelia x grandiflora<br />Abies<br />Abies balsamea<br />Acer griseurn<br />Acer palmatum<br />Acer pensylvanicum<br />Acer platanoides<br />Acer rubrum<br />Acer saccharinum<br />Acer saccharum<br />Achillea<br />Achillea filipendulina<br />Achillea millefolium<br />Aconitum<br />Acorus gramineus<br />Acsculus arguta<br />Acuba japonica<br />Aegopodium podagaria<br />Aesculus parviflora<br />Aesculus x carnea<br />Agapanthus<br />Agapanthus africanus<br />Agastache foeniculum<br />Agave americana<br />Ageratum<br />Ageratum houstonianum<br />Ajuga reptans<br />Albizia julibrissin<br />Alchemilla<br />Allium<br />Allium christophii<br />Allium neapolitanum<br />Allium ostrowskianum<br />Aloe<br />Alyssum<br />Amaryllis<br />Amelanchier arborea<br />Amelanchier canadensis<br />Amelanchier laevis<br />Amorpha canescens<br />Anchusa<br />Andromeda polifolia<br />Andropogon gerardii<br />Anemone x hybrida<br />Anemonella thalictroides<br />Anethum graveolens<br />Anisacanthus wrightii<br />Antirrhinum majus<br />Aquilegia<br />Arabis<br />Arabis caucasica<br />Aralia spinosa<br />Arctostaphylos uva-ursi<br />Arelia sieboldii<br />Arisaema triphylum<br />Armeria maritima<br />Armoracia rusticana<br />Aronia arbutifolia<br />Arrhenatherum elatius<br />Artemisia<br />Artemisia dracunculus<br />Artemisia schmidtiana<br />Artemisia tridentata<br />Arundo donax<br />Asarum canadense<br />Asarum europaeum<br />Asclepias incarnata<br />Asclepias tuberosa<br />Asimina triloba<br />Asparagus officinalis<br />Aspidistra lurida<br />Aster<br />Astilbe<br />Athyrium filix-femina<br />Aubrieta deltoidea<br />Aucuba japonica<br />Aurinia saxatilis<br />Bambusa<br />Baptisia australis<br />Baptisia tinctoria<br />Beaucarnea recurvata<br />Begonia<br />Begonia semperflorens<br />Berberis<br />Berberis koreana<br />Berberis thunbergii<br />Berberis trifoliolata<br />Bergenia<br />Bergenia cordifolia<br />Betula albo-sinensis<br />Betula jacquemontii<br />Betula lutea<br />Betula nigra<br />Betula nigra 'Heritage'<br />Betula papyrifera<br />Betula pendula<br />Bignonia capreolata<br />Boltonia asteroides<br />Borage officinalis<br />Brugmansia<br />Brunnera macrophylla<br />Buddleia davidii<br />Buxus<br />Buxus microphylla<br />Buxus sempervirens<br />Cactaceae<br />Calamagrostis acutiflora<br />Calamintha<br />Calendula officinalis<br />Callicarpa americana<br />Calluna vulgaris<br />Calycanthus floridus<br />Calycanthus occidentalis<br />Camassia leichtlini<br />Canna x generalis<br />Caragana arborescens<br />Caragana aurantiaca<br />Caragana frutex<br />Caragana maximowicziana<br />Caragana pekinensis<br />Carex<br />Carex pendula<br />Caryopteris clandonensis<br />Catharanthus alba rosea<br />Catharanthus rosea<br />Ceanothus velutinus<br />Cedrus deodara<br />Celastrus<br />Celastrus scandens<br />Celosia<br />Centaurea cineraria<br />Centaurea cyanus<br />Cephalotaxus<br />Cephalotaxus harringtonia<br />Cerastium<br />Ceratostigma plumbaginoides<br />Cercidiphyllum japonicum<br />Chaenomeles japonica<br />Chaenomeles speciosa<br />Chamaecyparis obtusa<br />Chamaecyparis pisifera<br />Chamaerops humilis<br />Chasmanthium latifolium<br />Cheiranthus<br />Chilopsis linearis<br />Chionanthus retusus<br />Choisya ternata<br />Chrysanthemum maximum<br />Chrysanthemum parthenium<br />Cimicifuga racemosa<br />Clematis<br />Cleome hasslerana<br />Clerodendrum fargesii<br />Clethra alnifolia<br />Colchicum autumnale<br />Colchicum speciosum<br />Colocasia esculenta<br />Consolida ambigua<br />Convallaria majalis<br />Coprosma repens<br />Cordyline australis<br />Coreopsis<br />Coreopsis lanceolata<br />Coreopsis verticillata<br />Cornus alba<br />Cornus capitata<br />Cornus drummondii<br />Cornus florida<br />Cornus kousa<br />Cornus sericea<br />Cornus stolonifera<br />Correa pulchella<br />Cortaderia selloana<br />Corydalis<br />Corylus<br />Cosmos bipinnatus<br />Cotinus coggygria<br />Cotoneaster<br />Cotoneaster apiculatus<br />Cotoneaster congestus<br />Cotoneaster dammeri<br />Cotoneaster horizontalis<br />Cotoneaster salicifolius<br />Crataegus<br />Crataegus laevigata<br />Crocus<br />Croscosmia<br />Cryptomeria japonica<br />Cupressocyparis x leylandii<br />Cyclamen<br />Cyclamen hederifolium<br />Cyrtomium falcatum<br />Cytisus<br />Cytisus scoparius<br />Dahlia<br />Daphne<br />Dasylirion<br />Delphinium<br />Dennstaedtia punctilobula<br />Deutzia<br />Dianthus barbatus<br />Dianthus caryophyllus<br />Dicentra eximia<br />Dicentra spectabilis<br />Dictamus alba<br />Digitalis<br />Digitalis grandiflora<br />Digitalis purpurea<br />Diospyros texana<br />Diospyros virginiana<br />Dryopteris<br />Dryopteris marginalis<br />Echinacea angustifolia<br />Echinacea purpurea<br />Echinops ritro<br />Echium fastuosum<br />Elaeagnus angustifolia<br />Elaeagnus commutata<br />Elaeagnus pungens<br />Elaeagnus umbellatus<br />Endymion non-scriptus<br />Enkianthus campanulatus<br />Epimedium<br />Eragrostus curvula<br />Erianthus hyemalis<br />Erianthus ravennae<br />Erica<br />Erythea armata<br />Erythronium<br />Eschscholzia californica<br />Eupatorium coelestinurn<br />Eupatorium purpureum<br />Eupatorium rugosum<br />Euphorbia<br />Euphorbia marginata<br />Fagus sylvatica<br />Fargesia<br />Festuca glauca<br />Ficus<br />Ficus carica<br />Forsythia<br />Forsythia x intermedia<br />Fothergilla<br />Fraxinus excelsior<br />Fraxinus pennsylvanica<br />Fraxinus velutina<br />Fritillaria<br />Fritillaria imperialis<br />Gaillardia pulchella<br />Galanthus nivalis<br />Galium odoratum<br />Gardenia<br />Garrya lindheimeri<br />Gaultheria procumbens<br />Gelsemium sempervirens<br />Geranium macrorrhizum<br />Geranium sanguineum<br />Gerbera jamesonii<br />Ginkgo biloba<br />Gladiolus<br />Gleditsia triacanthos<br />Gloriosa superba<br />Gordonia lisianthus<br />Gypsophila<br />Hakea suaveolens<br />Hakonechloa macra<br />Halesia carolina<br />Halimodendron halodendron<br />Hamamelis virginiana<br />Hedera helix baltica<br />Helenium autumnale<br />Helianthus<br />Helichrysum<br />Helictotrichon sempervirens<br />Heliotropium arborescens<br />Helleborus<br />Helleborus niger<br />Helleborus orientalis<br />Hemmerocallis 'Stella de Oro'<br />Hesperis matronalis<br />Heuchera micrantha<br />Hibiscus syriacus<br />Hippophae rhamnoides<br />Hyacinthus orientalis<br />Hypericum calycinum<br />Hypericum prolificum<br />Hyssopus officinalis<br />Hystrix patula<br />Iberis sempervirens<br />Iberis umbellata<br />Ilex aquifolium<br />Ilex cornuta<br />Ilex crenata<br />Ilex glabra<br />Ilex opaca<br />Ilex verticillata<br />Ilex vomitoria<br />Ilex x 'John T. Morris'<br />Ilex x 'Lydia Morris'<br />Ilex x aquipernyi<br />Illicium<br />Imperata cylindrica<br />Ipomoea<br />Iris<br />Itea virginica<br />Ixex cornuta<br />Jasminum<br />Jasminum nudiflorum<br />Juncus effusus<br />Juncus inflexus<br />Juniperus<br />Juniperus chinensis<br />Juniperus communis<br />Juniperus horizontalis<br />Juniperus sabina<br />Juniperus scopulorum<br />Juniperus squamata<br />Juniperus virginiana<br />Kalmia latifolia<br />Kerria japonica<br />Kirengeshoma palmata<br />Kniphofia uvaria<br />Koeleria glauca<br />Koelreuteria paniculata<br />Kolkwitzia amabilis<br />Lagerstroemia indica<br />Lamium maculatum<br />Lantana camara<br />Lantana montevidensis<br />Lathyrus odoratus<br />Lavandula<br />Leucojum<br />Leucojum aestivum<br />Leucophyllum<br />Leucothoe<br />Leucothoe axillaris<br />Leucothoe fontanesiana<br />Leymus arenarius glaucous<br />Liatris<br />Liatris spicata<br />Ligularia 'The Rocket'<br />Ligularia dentata<br />Ligustrum<br />Ligustrum vulgare<br />Limonium latifolium<br />Linaria vulgaris<br />Lindera benzoin<br />Liquidambar styraciflua<br />Liriodendron tulipifera<br />Liriope<br />Lobelia<br />Lobelia cardinalis<br />Lobelia laxiflora<br />Lobularia maritima<br />Lonicera<br />Lonicera sempervirens<br />Lunaria annua<br />Lupinus<br />Lupinus texensis<br />Lychnis chalcedonica<br />Lychnis coronaria<br />Lyonothamnus floribundus<br />Macleaya cordata<br />Magnolia grandiflora<br />Magnolia x soulangiana<br />Mahonia aquifolium<br />Mahonia bealei<br />Malvaviscus arboreus<br />Marrubium vulgare<br />Matricaria<br />Matteuccia struthiopteris<br />Matthiola<br />Melampodium<br />Melampodium leucanthum<br />Melia azedarach<br />Melianthus major<br />Melissa officinalis<br />Mentha<br />Mentha spicata<br />Mertensia virginica<br />Metasequoia glyptostroboides<br />Michelia fuscata<br />Microbiota decussata<br />Mimosa borealis<br />Mirabilis jalapa<br />Miscanthus floridulis<br />Miscanthus sinensis<br />Molinia caerulea<br />Monarda didyma<br />Muscari<br />Myosotis<br />Myosotis alpestris<br />Myosotis scorpioides<br />Myosotis sylvatica<br />Myrica californica<br />Myrica cerifera<br />Myrica pennsylvanica<br />Nandina<br />Nandina domestica<br />Narcissus<br />Nepeta cataria<br />Nephrolepis<br />Nerium oleander<br />Nicotiana alata<br />Nolina<br />Nolina parryi<br />Ocimum basilicum<br />Onoclea sensibilis<br />Ophiopogon japonicus<br />Opuntia<br />Origanum majorana<br />Origanum vulgare<br />Osmanthus heterophyllus<br />Osmunda cinnamomea<br />Osmunda regalis<br />Oxalis<br />Oxalis oregana<br />Oxydendrum arboreum<br />Pachysandra procumbens<br />Pachysandra terminalis<br />Paeonia<br />Panicum virgatum<br />Papaver orientale<br />Papaver rhoeas<br />Patrinia scabiosifolia<br />Pediocactus<br />Pelargonium<br />Pennisetum alopecuroides<br />Pennisetum orientale<br />Pentas<br />Perilla frutescens<br />Perovskia atriplicifolia<br />Petroselinum crispum<br />Phalaris arundinaceae<br />Philadelphus<br />Philadelphus coronarius<br />Phlomis<br />Phoenix dactylifera<br />Phormium tenax<br />Phyllostachys aurea<br />Physostegia virginiana<br />Picea<br />Picea abies<br />Picea glauca<br />Picea glauca 'Conica'<br />Picea omorika<br />Picea pungens<br />Pieris floribunda<br />Pieris japonica<br />Pimpinella anisum<br />Pinus<br />Pinus densiflora<br />Pinus mugo<br />Pinus nigra<br />Pinus resinosa<br />Pinus rigida<br />Pinus strobus<br />Pinus sylvestris<br />Pinus thunbergiana<br />Plectranthus ciliatus<br />Podophyllum<br />Polemonium caeruleum<br />Poliomintha longifolia<br />Polystichum arcostichoides<br />Potentilla<br />Potentilla fruticosa<br />Primula<br />Prunus americana<br />Prunus caroliniana<br />Prunus fruticosa<br />Prunus laurocerasus<br />Prunus serrulata<br />Prunus tenella<br />Pseudotsuga menziesii<br />Pulmonaria<br />Pyracantha 'M. Roemer'<br />Pyracantha coccinea<br />Quillaja saponaria<br />Ranunculus<br />Rhamnus<br />Rhamnus cathartica<br />Rheum rhabarbarum<br />Rhododendron 'Olga Mezitt'<br />Rhododendron 'PJM'<br />Rhododendron roseum<br />Rhus aromatica<br />Rhus lanceolata<br />Rhus ovata<br />Rhus trilobata<br />Rhus virens<br />Ribes<br />Robinia pseudoacacia<br />Rodgersia<br />Romneya coulteri<br />Rosa 'Betty Bland'<br />Rosa 'Haidee'<br />Rosa laevigata<br />Rosa rugosa<br />Rosa virginiana<br />Rosa wichuraiana<br />Rosmarinus officinalis<br />Rubus<br />Rudbeckia<br />Rudbeckia hirta<br />Ruta graveolens<br />Sabal blackburniana<br />Salix matsudana tortuosa<br />Salvia<br />Salvia farinacea<br />Salvia greggii<br />Salvia leucantha<br />Salvia nemorosa<br />Salvia officinalis<br />Salvia roemeriana<br />Salvia splendens<br />Sambucus canadensis<br />Sambucus racemosa<br />Santolina<br />Santolina chamaecyparissus<br />Saponaria officinalis<br />Sarcoccoca hookeriana<br />Sassafras albidurn<br />Satureja montana<br />Scabiosa caucasica<br />Schizachyrium scoparium<br />Scilla siberica<br />Scirpus lacustris<br />Sempervivum<br />Senecio cineraria<br />Sheperdia argentea<br />Skimmia japonica<br />Solanum<br />Solanum pseudocapsicum<br />Solidago<br />Sophora secundiflora<br />Sorghastrum nutans<br />Spiraea<br />Spiraea japonica<br />Spiraea prunifolia<br />Spiraea x bumalda<br />Stachys byzantina<br />Stokesia laevis<br />Symphoricarpos albus<br />Symphoricarpos x chenaultii<br />Symplocarpos foetidus<br />Syringa reticulata<br />Syringa villosa<br />Syringa vulgaris<br />Syzygium paniculatum<br />Tagetes<br />Tagetes lucida<br />Tagetes patula<br />Tanacetum vulgare<br />Taxodium distichum<br />Tecomaria capensis<br />Teucrium<br />Teucrium chamaedrys<br />Teucrium fruticans<br />Thalictrum<br />Thelyptens noveboracensis<br />Thymus<br />Tiarella cordifolia<br />Trachelospermum asiaticum<br />Trachelospermum jasminoides<br />Trachycarpus fortunei<br />Tradescantia<br />Tricyrtis hirta<br />Trillium<br />Tropaeolum majus<br />Tsuga canadensis<br />Tulbaghia violacea<br />Ungnadia speciosa<br />Verbascum thapsus<br />Verbena<br />Veronica<br />Veronica officinalis<br />Viburnum<br />Viburnum carlesii<br />Viburnum dentatum<br />Viburnum opulus<br />Viburnum plicatum tomentosurn<br />Viburnum prunifolium<br />Viburnum rhytidophyllum<br />Viburnum x juddii<br />Vinca major<br />Vinca minor<br />Vinca rosea<br />Viola<br />Weigela florida<br />Wisteria floribunda<br />Wisteria frutescens<br />Yucca<br />Yucca filamentosa<br />Zantedeschia aethiopica<br />Zauschneria californica<br />Zexmenia hispida<br />Zinnia<br />Zinnia elegans<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4304539175735094922-4117096390380893551?l=marcuciogardens.blogspot.com'/></div>Philiphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18009338388256004458noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4304539175735094922.post-48214495977356788882007-06-24T10:54:00.000-07:002007-06-24T10:55:52.623-07:00WOW!! How about that weather!!<p>As we roll into the end of June and into the 4<sup>th</sup> of July weekend we notice a few things about the weather: cool, damp, and cloudy. This is not a good combination for plants. After coming off a bad winter for plants, the landscape looked bleak and burned. Most plants showed severe winter damage. </p> <p>Now that we are 1/2 way through the year, a whole new group of problems are seen. </p> <ul><li>Many leaves are yellowing with black spots. </li><li>Many insects are around. </li><li>There is also a lot of powdery mildew. </li></ul> <p>These problems are caused by the weather. </p> <p>There are easy fixes to these problems. Most insects we have seen can be controlled any general purpose insecticide. Black spot and fungus can be controlled by a fungicide. This year, we like to recommend Orthenex by Ortho and Earth-tone by Espoma. Both are multi use products that can control insects and diseases. </p> <p>Another thing to do this season is to fertilize a little heaver then normal. Plants that cannot get enough energy form the sun need to get it from other places. In wet years granular fertilizers tend to work better then liquids. Most liquid fertilizer is water based and washes out too easily in wet weather. </p> As we look to the summer months, all we can do is hope that the weather patterns return to something close to normal. If not we will be here to try to have some helpful advise on how to keep things as healthy and looking as good as possible .<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4304539175735094922-4821449597735678888?l=marcuciogardens.blogspot.com'/></div>Mike Marcuciohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16581925090028807624noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4304539175735094922.post-40582878782445235702007-06-24T10:21:00.001-07:002007-06-24T10:21:46.338-07:00A Word on Bulk MulchAt this time, Marcucio Gardens does not have bulk mulch on hand. On May 19, 2007, we received a letter from the city of Derby. A neighbor wrote a letter to the town about noise from the tractors. Upon pulling of the file to respond to the complaint it was discovered that 9 years ago Marcucio Gardens did not get a permit to operate a nursery in an agricultural zone. We did not know that we needed such a permit. Now after 9 years in operation, the town says we are in violation of the zoning. Upon being informed of the violations we quickly made changes to fix the problems. These changes included dismantling of concrete bins that held the bulk in a neat and contained area. As of now we do not have any bulk of any kind on hand. We hope that after the July 17, meeting of planning and zoning in Derby, all will be resolved and we will know if we can get the bulk material back again. Thank you for all your support!<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4304539175735094922-4058287878244523570?l=marcuciogardens.blogspot.com'/></div>Mike Marcuciohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16581925090028807624noreply@blogger.com0