The Flying Elephant Express

Lord I Was Born A Scramblin' Man

2009-04-24T13:17:00.001-07:00

Can you tell I'm in love?

Scrambler!

2009-04-22T08:14:00.000-07:00

Ordained by fate. Don't fight it.

No, Eating A Spider Didn't Kill Us

2009-04-16T18:38:00.000-07:00

But it felt like it might for a few hours. We pickied up this hairy bad boy at a roadside market/restaurant between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Our driver Som (a highlight of the trip in his own right) had been regaling us with stories of the foods (and lack thereof) of his childhood. He claimed spider was not only delicious, but medicinal as well. How so? He couldn't explain any more than "spider has something the body needs." Which was all the goading I needed. And Som wasn't lying. The spider was delicious, having been crispy-fried in a sweet, Teriyaki-like sauce. It's medicinal effects were noticeable as well, as both Andrea and I noticed mild-to-troubling neurological effects for the next several hours. And no wonder. Som said that he had been bitten by this particular species of spider as a young man, and had endured terrible sickness and pain as a result. An impressive achievement for the arachnid, considering Som had developed almost complete resistence to scorpion, millipede, wasp and other insect venom (possibly due to the fact that such insects made up a significant part of his diet for years during the Khmer Rouge-era famines). This particular fellow had had his fangs removed, insisted Som, meaning there was no poison in the tasty snack. Our upset stomaches, mild muscle spasms, headache and (in my cases) temporarily blurred vision begged to differ. Then again, to say that Som is made of sterner stuff than us is an understatement of truly epic proportions.

No, We Did Not Die In Hanoi Traffic

2009-04-14T02:43:00.000-07:00

Part two of our scooter video proves it. Sort of. I guess. The truth is, the beaches of Southern Cambodia are so beautiful and relaxing that we kind of forgot that you all exist. Plus the internet wasn't working (it's hard to get WiFi into those rustic bungalows). Plus we barely took any pictures anyway. Suffice it to say we had an amazing time. I will expound at greater length, but having just been driven almost the entire length of Cambodia, the last thing I want to do right now is sit in front of a computer. Especially since I'm feeling a bit woozy from the particularly large, poisonous (fried) spider I recently ingested (pics, etc to follow). For now, a quick stroll around Siem Reap to clear the head (and hopefully cleanse the nervous system) is in order. Enjoy part two of Hanoi scooter madness.

Oh No You Didn't

2009-04-09T05:10:00.000-07:00

Sorry Mom, but I rented a moped and spent two days cruising the crazed streets of Hanoi. The second day was Andrea's day off from the conference, and she took this video from the back of our Honda Wave. Feel the pavement-rippling power of our 100cc hog, as we join the the chaos of Hanoi traffic. The video starts close to the Vietnam Military History Museum, and the first point of interest is Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum. From there we pretty much just get lost. Which pretty much summarizes my two days cruising Hanoi. Lots and lots of getting lost. And really, if there's a better way to see a city I can't think of it.

The Inevitable Food Post

2009-04-07T18:10:00.000-07:00

Why is it that food always inspires at least one blog post when I travel? Hell, sometimes I wonder if food isn't the reason I travel at all. And I'm certainly convinced that you can learn more from a good meal than from gawking at some tourist-crowded monument. Hanoi proves the point. Despite the painful legacies of French colonialism, cafe culture rules in Hanoi. Coffee is dark-roasted, individually percolated, and stunningly good. Think a cross between French roast and Turkish coffee. Locals and tourists alike rub shoulders at sidewalk cafes and garden terraces overlooking the busy streets, sipping excellent coffee, iced or hot. Especially when ensconced in a vine-wreathed deck above the clamor of the street traffic, the ambiance is unmistakeably European.

Coffee, however, is but the prologue to Hanoi's culinary delights. French influences continue on the street level, with baguettes figuring heavily into many of the infinite street foods. From donor kebab in baguette to omelettes in baguettes, the french bread is everywhere. Deep-fried baguette? Yeah, haven't tried that one yet. And to be perfectly honest, the baguettes in general don't quite meet my bread-snob expectations. So let's skip to Hanoi's signature dishes.

Cha Ca, or fried fish is the champion signature dish in Hanoi. They even named part of a street after it, and you'll have to make your way there to find the signature restaurant for this signature dish: Cha Ca LaVong. No, not "Cha Ca LaLuong" across the street. LaVong is the only way to go. Here's how it works: you sit down at one of the spartan tables and the help hands you the menu, which is actually just a card that says "only one dish: fried fish." Fine, that's why you came. Order a beer, and a few minutes later, your food arrives.

Lightly battered chunks of catfish sizzle in a pan of oil over a coal fire. Throw in the provided mixed herbs, stir it up and dump it into your bowl full of noodles. Throw in more fresh herbs and a little nuoc mam (fish sauce) and stuff it in your face. The key (I think) is their totally unidentifiable but stunning mixture of herbs, which create a redolent bouquet of smells and flavors as it fries with the fish. You can get a version of this at Portland's Pok Pok, but it can't hold a candle. And costs like ten times as much. Though I'm usually tempted to try to recreate dishes myself, I wouldn't know where to start replicating the delicate, herbaceous flavors thaat come from those mysterious greens.

And then there's the Pho. If you've had Pho, you know how good it is under any circumstances. If you've never had Vietnam's signature beef noodle soup, you need to start rethinking your priorities in life. And unless you've tasted it, it's nearly impossible to describe. In Hanoi, it's everywhere, it's cheap, and it's delicious. The broth has simmered for months for all you can tell, with fresh bones being constantly being thrown into the pot. The noodles and beef are cooked quickly in the broth when you order, and the result is orgasmic. Sitting on the tiny plastic chairs, sipping bia (beer, duh) and slurping Pho is the perfect way to power up before cruising the night markets. Sure, there are scooters blatting past you just three feet away while you're eating, but if you aren't used to scooter traffic within a few hours of arrival, well, Hanoi just probably isn't for you.

Pictures Speak Louder Than Words

2009-04-06T17:23:00.001-07:00

Learning By Losing (Direction)

2009-04-05T22:11:00.000-07:00

Man, it's been a wild day-and-a-half (I guess... time isn't making sense right now). The last post here was thrown up fairly quickly as a "we're alive, please don't call the embassy" courtesy, and sadly this one has to go up quickly as well. I have to zip over to the 'ol Hanoi Daewoo to meet Andrea for lunch in just a few minutes, and since I'll be taking a moto taxi (called "cuddle taxis" in Vietnamese, because, well, you cuddle the driver) this may well be my last living act. The Xe Om, as they're called, are just that much fun. Oh, and speaking of Andrea, this conference thing is kind of a big deal, as the picture below proves. Signs like this are all over town.

Anyway, I'm finally getting my grips on this town. Well, the old quarter anyway. Which is no mean feat, considering it's a rabbit warren of winding streets, agressive scoot drivers and an architectural hodge-podge that really lacks distinguishing landmarks. How have I become more comfortable getting around? By getting lost first. Last night, as Andrea succumbed to the first sin of jet lag (5pm bedtime) I took off looking for a power adaptor. It turned out I didn't even need one (I'm an idiot) but the 6 hours of blind wandering has done wonders for my navigation (and language) skills. Today when I went to buy plane tickets for Cambodia, I wandered out of the Old Quarter (accidentally finding the Uncle Ho-saleum)and got lost again, but a Xe Om ride to Hoang Kiem lake brought my bearings back instantly. And all for one dollar and a little terror. I haven't been properly lost since.

Speaking of Xe Om terror, lunch with Andrea (and a little pre-meal colon-clenching on the back of a Honda Wave) beckons, so I'll have to cut it off here. I'm having an amazing time and our travel arrangements for Cambodia are taken care of, so there's plenty more blogging to come. I'll at least post some pictures later this evening. Until then, Tam Biet!

Arrived!

2009-04-04T21:33:00.000-07:00

Well, after over 24 hours of travel, we're in Hanoi. The usual chaos of arriving and checking in is behind us, and its about time to go do some exploring. Actually, we still have to brave the mad, mad, mad traffic one more time to get Andrea registered for her conference. Which happens to be located way across town. Which means another wide-eyed, white-knuckle ride on Hanoi's wild streets. While we endure that ordeal, here are a few photos for you to enjoy.

Andrea preps on the plane
As good as traffic gets. Which is why our driver is texting.

Plenty more to come!

Eff It Dude, Let's Go To 'Nam

2009-04-03T07:29:00.000-07:00

Ok, so the weather isn't this nasty anymore. Still, I'm ready to ditch town. Which is where having a hotshot historic preservationist for a girlfriend comes in. Andrea will be presenting her research on Olympic development in Beijing at a Forum UNESCO conference in Hanoi, and I'm tagging along. In fact, we leave this evening. So for two short weeks, this blog will once again be updated with pictures and thoughts from our travels. This week I'll be posting from Hanoi, and starting next Friday I'll be coming at you from various parts of Cambodia. Also, be sure to check out Andrea's blog, The Sustainability Gap.

Yes Please

2008-10-07T08:42:00.001-07:00

Please God, let this happen.

Best. Vanity Plate. Ever.

2008-06-27T10:16:00.000-07:00

My Other Bike Is A GMC

2008-05-20T16:34:00.000-07:00

My daily rider is a 70's Peugeot Carbolite. I recently picked this up to fool around with. Didn't even notice the stickers until after I'd bought it. Ugh, I own a GMC!

Holy Statism!

2008-04-28T16:36:00.000-07:00

Tip of the hat to Reason Rough Cut.

So True...

2008-04-26T18:14:00.001-07:00

Caged animals One, China Zero

2008-04-07T11:25:00.000-07:00

Remember Andrea's post about the sadness that is the Beijing Zoo?

Well, the abused animals of China fought back recently, as a young, mentally ill man was literally eaten by a tiger at the Harbin zoo. As sad as the story is, if you saw how animals are treated in captivity in China, you'd want to eat the most vulnerable Chinese person you could find. Money line? "Only two legs and his skull were left," the report said.

Munch.

5 Years In And Iraq Is Only Now Free Enough To Ghost Ride The Whip?

2008-03-24T12:53:00.000-07:00

Found

2008-03-19T19:38:00.000-07:00

...on Facebook of all places.

This reminds of so many people I know, it's insane.

Thanks Anne for finding awesome things!

Also...

2008-03-14T14:51:00.000-07:00

I write about cars all day. I'm boring. Deal.

Too True...

2008-03-14T13:37:00.000-07:00

David Brooks pens a hell of a column.

FEE Exclusive: 2008 Impreza AB Edition

2008-02-29T21:29:00.000-08:00

This has been a sneak peek of Ms. Andrea Blaser's new 2008 Impreza 2.5i Wagon.

Oh Yeah...

2008-02-25T10:04:00.000-08:00

I'm working as a blogger/content provider for The Truth About Cars... and yeah, I got the job from my daddy. You can check out my posts in the "News" section every day of the week, and I'll be trying to get editorials published on a regular basis. My first editorial appears here, and is part of TTAC's ongoing "Deathwatch" series covering the decline of the American auto industry. My piece discusses two-mode hybrid technology, and it's role in the profound unprofitability of General Motors. I hope to make energy-efficiency and globalization the focus of my editorials, but I'll be writing about all kinds of car-related nonsense for the foreseeable future. Just remember next time you are getting ready to head off to your office or place of employment... somewhere in Portland, Ted Niedermeyer is getting paid to hang out in his pajamas. New Media in the hizzy!

awkward pause...

2008-02-19T10:09:00.000-08:00

...

...

...

Word To Your Daddy

2008-02-11T10:45:00.000-08:00

It's possible that a few of you may have wondered why "The Truth About Cars" link shows up in my blogroll. It's not just because I like to read about cars from time to time (although I do), and it's not just because TTAC is basically the best place to get car reviews and editorials on the web (although it is). No, the real reason is because my dad writes there...

Anyway, I was just over there reading the latest wheezings from the saurian Brock Yates, when I noticed that my old man actually has his own category over there which includes his epic 27-part "auto-biography" series along with various other automobile-related musings. Anyway, check it out... the guy can write, and if you are at all interested in the auto industry, new cars, old cars or epic debates about the relative merits of Fox-body Fords TTAC is the place for you.

One for the "it's funny to me" file...

2008-02-10T14:02:00.000-08:00

Being new to Portland (not to mention incurably immature) and all, I got all giggly when my pronunciation of "Couch Street" was corrected by a housemate. Apparently it's the oldest Portland joke in the book, but the street is pronounced like the female genitalia, not the furniture item. As if that weren't hilarious enough, the damn street was named after John H Couch, better known as Captain Couch.

OK, for those of you who aren't rolling in the aisles that's pronounced "Captain Cooch."

Got it now? Good. Now check out Captaincouch.com and don't say I never did anything for you.