Off the Cuff

The Brand of You (Part 2)

2009-07-10T16:05:00.011-04:00

In Part One of this essay, we discussed some of the recent and dramatic changes that have set the concept and practice of brand loyalty on a dramatically new course.

It’s still an ongoing shift, but the edges of the curve of the new pathway are becoming clearer.

In plain terms, what is changing, and by extension changing how companies market their wares, is that basic level of customer loyalty to a brand is becoming fragmented and layered. A simple statement like, “I like Ralph Lauren” is now more of an, “I like Ralph Lauren polo shirts, but I like J. Press oxfords. And I prefer vintage jeans.” The cache of a single brand defining a customer’s life is fast fading.

Combine that with a collapsed economy and gutted luxury market and you have a rapidly evolving landscape when it comes to telling all your potential customers exactly who you are and why you matter. And speaking of numbers, don’t expect to see the like of 2008 sales figures until at least 2012. From couture to watches and handbags to footwear, the overall luxury market has significantly retracted. And that directly affects the related mass luxury and aspirational markets.

Another factor is the quality issue. With purchases being scrutinized by customers like never before, those labels that grew at a global scale and licensed out all their branded accessories may face the wrath of buyers tired of sub-par quality for the sake of the name. It’s fair to say that smaller brands with tight controls on design, production and quality – and who actually make things people want to buy – will win out in the coming loyalty game. Luxury again is going to mean exclusivity.

ALL ABOUT THE GUYS
Not all is totally bleak, however. Menswear is faced with another, albeit happier, wrinkle. All those men who for generations did not care much about this season’s Pantone color or whether summer scarves are “in” are not only becoming active in their fashion choices but actually becoming market movers. Across the spectrum of retail, men are taking a more active role in outfitting their own wardrobes, carefully selecting accessories and fussing over things like quality and provenance. Retailers quickly took notice and have both broadened and deepened their menswear selections.

The reasons are myriad, but many men have shaken off the stale myth that they don’t care about style, fashion, luxury and looking good. When Off The Cuff hit the web way back in 2006, most of the sites now listed in OTC’s blog roll did not even exist. Today however, guys are looking for help and advice on all matters sartorial. Men now actively seek out information and feedback about products, brands and trends that interest them.

More to the point, they are also looking for validation and community about the brands that they like. The brand itself is not enough; they want to be part of a sartorial tribe, if you will. To be sure, there is also a strong desire to stand alone, to be unique. We all want the one thing that sets us apart from the herd – but not too far. Most of us want to stand out just enough to let the others know that we are our own man, but not be a jerk about it.

For example, I’ll be writing shortly about Kobold watches. The upstart high-end adventure watch company is now 10 years old but still a niche brand and many of its adherents like it that way. To them it adds a layer of respectable obscurity to something most men consider a key marker of status and personality. In a sense, its unique personality increases its value.

As the concept of what exactly a brand means and who decides if it’s worth something becomes more decentralized, defining who you are is becoming more personal and individual. And with men educating themselves about style, fashion, etiquette and luxury, brands that heretofore could consider themselves one-stop-shops will have to change their approach.

SHIFTING GEARS
Some large brands are trying to address this issue. J. Crew, a company that now intently focuses on its male customers, developed the Liquor Store men’s shop in New York’s SoHo to highlight limited edition wares. J. Crew also produces a regular men’s only catalog that stresses unique product collaborations with specialized partners.

This approach allows the overall brand to remain whole but provide customers with a sense of individuality and more importantly, the feeling that these specialized products meet a higher standard, like Red Wing boots for example.

It all boils down to a growing customer base that simply does not need to be told who they are or what they really want or what kind of life they should lead. They may read lots of fashion and style magazines and check out yours truly on blogger, but they are the ones who decide what their “look” is. The brands need to meet their approval.

The Panerai Marina

Let’s say I like Panerai watches (who doesn’t?), and maybe I want to buy one. I look through the company website, of course. But I also check out the blogosphere and look up feedback on specific models. Who’s tested and reviewed one, and if so which one? Any tweets? Where can I find one on the secondary market, and what does Watch Report or Hodinkee say? All this before I ever get close to a salesman or company representative.

IT'S ALL ABOUT ME (AND YOU)
In my own case, there are several brands that right off the bat fit my own self image: J. Crew, J. Press, Drakes London, Michael Bastain, Ralph Lauren and Slowear for example. But it’s not only clothing. When I think of my personal brand, I also think of Monocle magazine, Filson bags, my favorite Omas 360 pen, Moleskine notebooks or the sterling silver money clip from Tiffany that was a gift from my wife. Even the waxed cord from the hang tag on my Jack Spade bag connects me to that brand just a little bit more. I wear it on my wrist.

All of these outside brands are part of my own personal brand, but I am not a whole-cloth adherent to any one of them. Basically, I’m vetting the brand to see if it meets my standards and fits into my life.

Since people now have multiple sources to learn about style and fashion, history, culture, craftsmanship and etiquette – all the things that go into one’s sense of personal taste and style – a “brand” is now more about the customer than, well, the brand.

The brand needs to fit who I am, not the other way around.

Skinny Jeans!

2009-07-06T10:09:00.015-04:00

Are just wrong.

At least for me. I don't understand the appeal of trying to pour myself into jeans that are going to be uncomfortable and, frankly, make me look like I'm wearing some girl's pants.

Jeans' inherent appeal is bound up in their utilitarian roots. Fashionable because of their very functionality, well-fitting jeans have made guys look cool and sexy - in a Marlon Brando/James Dean kind of way - for decades.

And yet, here we are again with the tight, skinny jeans thing. Just as overly baggy jeans tend to make the wearer look like a punk who needs a belt, wearing skinny, tight fitting jeans only highlights a blatant look of femininity. Now, if that's your goal than you're good to go. However, most men are probably trying to just look good, not like tween teen idol Zac Efron.

He can pull off that slightly effeminate look and get away with it. You, mister 30-something, mid-career professional, jeans and polo shirt on Friday, cannot. The Wall Street Journal even jumped into the skinny jeans debate today, CLICK HERE for the article.

I understand the vagaries of fashion and the various driving forces that seek to make consumers perpetually unsatisfied and look for the next "it" thing. I do not though, understand adopting what is to me a totally counter intuitive trend that isn't even comfortable. And as far as I'm concerned it is a trend in most classic way: fashionable but impractical, hip but uncomfortable and of course, emulating of celebrity.

This last point is always telling. Emulating George Clooney and his genuinely elegant/casual sense of monochromatic taste is one thing. It is actually usable in the real world and transferable to most guy's wardrobes.

Zac Efron's skinny jeans v. classic Levi's 505s

Trying to look like the latest cool kid on the block when you are even five years his senior is another thing all together. It doesn't really work. In addition to the age/fashion ratio (the younger you are the easier it is to pull off overly stylized looks), as we get older our bodies change and the ability to carry of age specific fashion tends to wane. Though I was never a skinny teen per se, I could probably have pulled off the skinny jean thing in high school had I even wanted to. Now, I'd look like a joke; even my one-year old would laugh at me.

Of course, skinny jeans were never my thing. My high school years were dominated by the ever fashionable parachute pant craze, so it was kind of the opposite issue. Baggy and cluttered was in, MC Hammer wasn't a reality TV dad, he was Hammer Time!

My dream pants in high school, still available on the web

Ultimately, it's a gut thing (pun not originally intended). Skinny jeans are awkward on men; they restrict movement and conform to the body in a way that is, for many observers of fashion, unappealing and off putting. Even former British prime minister Tony Blair was a fish out of water when he pulled on a pair overly tight pants on his first visit with then president George W. Bush. He could not even put his hands in his pockets: awkward.

The international tight-jeans incident

The upshot here is that I am not trying to act like Mr. Blackwell and pick on those who are simply trying to show a sense of personal style. I just want to point out that we all need to take a look in the mirror every now and then and see what's really there, not what we want ourselves to see.

Before anything else, jeans should be comfortable. Maybe that should be our collective starting point.

The Brand of You (Part 1)

2009-07-01T16:20:00.028-04:00

Brand allegiance is a funny thing.

When it works well the customer clearly and deeply identifies with the brand. When it doesn’t work, more specifically when the brand lets the customer down in some way, the old loyalty can be almost impossible to win back.

In menswear, brand loyalty has historically been a deep seated thing. While women are still targeted by designer trends, men traditionally stick with a brand they like and trust. Over the past few years, designers and marketing departments have been working overtime to encourage men to think more like women – season to season, for example. Thankfully that tactic has not been too successful.

Ultimately though, that all matters less and less because of what happened during last year’s holiday shopping season. When the luxury retail economy collapsed along with everything else, the jig was up. In less than one year, the very concept of brand loyalty and even the basic thought process of how a consumer sees their favorite brand, logo or company had dramatically changed.

The Crash of Mass Couture
It all started with Saks Fifth Avenue.

There were already fears about economic problems in the months leading up to the 2008 holiday shopping season. But as Black Friday rolled around, the retailing earth shook when, without any pretense or warning Saks, the bastion of luxury retail, preemptively slashed prices on designer clothes by 70 percent.

This was unheard of; the designers from whom Saks Fifth Avenue purchased the high-end goods were caught totally off guard and other major luxury retailers were forced to quickly follow suit. Soon after, boutiques and then second tier retailers were forced to massively reduce prices.

A cardinal rule of luxury retail had been broken and overnight already skittish consumers were suddenly wondering if their Louis Vuitton bag or designer jeans were ever worth what they had paid only the day before. (The text of the original WSJ article on this fascinating story and reader commentary can be found here, courtesy of StyleZeitgiest.com)

What occurred next was nothing less than a reshaping of the luxury landscape. Saks had correctly surmised that this was the last hurrah of the luxury-for-all boom years and acted in an appropriately dramatic fashion to try and salvage what sales it could from a rapidly deteriorating market. The rest of the high-end retail universe soon saw the writing on the wall and slashed their already low holiday sales prices to the bone and prayed for the best. Then they slashed again.

For many consumers, the magic was gone; the spell of mass-market exclusivity broken. The value that customers saw in their luxury goods – clothing, accessories, watches and even automobiles – was now being questioned. What is the real worth of my Gucci briefcase?

It was bad enough that mass-luxury retailers like LVMH Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy, Gucci, Coach, Prada and even Tiffany & Co., had diluted their luxury status by aggressively courting middle class consumers with mid-priced products to drive their incredible growth. Now, they were no longer luxury brands, they were more like luxury image brands.

In a race to capture aspirational money, these companies had targeted average folks who wanted to live slices of the high life by way of expensive accoutrements. In doing so, many left disillusioned the truly wealthy who had helped build up the brand’s cache to begin with.

When the bottom fell out of the retail market, all those teenagers and newly minted MBAs (e.g. those who acted wealthy because they could float a luxurious life on credit) vanished overnight. Just like that, the plastic powered cash cow of mass luxury stopped spending.

Then the other hand crafted cordovan slip-on dropped. As the economic tsunami kept on rolling it ultimately pulled under a formerly recession-proof demographic: truly wealthy people. They may not all be broke, but they sure stopped spending. When people who are actually rich stop buying things you know it’s bad.

As the dust continues to clear only one brand name luxury label remains relatively unscathed – Hermes. The company, while always appreciating and welcoming their less than moneyed customers, never changed its brand or marketing to exclusively attract them.

A brand that did not compromise

Hermes is unabashedly a luxury brand and has never apologized for it. This kind of loyalty to their primary customer base, those with disposable cash money, has helped the company remain relatively secure during this period of upheaval.

In fact, while its peers' profits are firmly in negative territory, Hermes first quarter sales have already grown by 3.2 percent. And the added benefit of Hermes never embracing “logoed” retailing is paying dividends because it is now considered unseemly, should you have the money, to flaunt designer brands. A Hermes bag, though prohibitively expensive, is luxuriously devoid of logos or even a nameplate.

Hermes, therefore, is able to thrive in this downturn because its obsessive focus on quality, honesty and value (at least to those who can afford its offerings) was always true to the brand. It never lost its mystique, the most valuable asset of a luxury firm.

For all those other brands that had heretofore defined the lives we all were supposed to want, everything had changed. They suddenly looked jaded and false, pretentious and gaudy. In the blink of an eye everyone realized that they had been living in someone else’s marketing plan.

Without those bands and their worlds to define us, how would we now define what brands meant to us?

All About “You”
It turns out that many smaller and specialized brands had been waiting for their shot at the brass ring. At the same time, people began to turn away from mega brands and finally think about what message they were telegraphing about themselves. As they looked around, they began to see other options in design, craftsmanship, cost, style and quality.

Those global brands, while still important, had lost much of their mystique. Luxury prices had been grossly out of whack if only because we kept paying them. No longer did we want the “it bag” or “it shirt” just because a glossy ad said we should. Simplicity as a value was taking hold.

Enduring style and expressing personal taste became cool. As consumers now look for the local and unique, for things with long lived value, craftsmanship is again becoming prized. And that goal of simplicity does not mean cheap or disposable; quite the opposite. At its core, the emerging argument is that if I’m going to buy something expensive and luxurious, I want it to be unique and hand crafted. Instead of five "luxury" off the rack suits, I want one or two custom suits that will last for years.

My things now need meaning and need to fit me, not the other way around.

With consumers taking over the job of promoting or dismissing luxury goods via blogs (like this one), twitter, rating sites and simply by communicating with each other and bypassing traditional advertising altogether, the definition of branding is changing as well.

Your personal style is now your logo

In fact, it seems that now we’re the brand. Designers and marketers are looking for ways to get their products associated with people. It’s not just about us wanting to live in their worlds, now they want to be worthy of our personal brands.

It’s now about the brand of You.

The second half of this essay will discuss how these changes have turned the concept of branding on its head. So stay tuned for part two.

To us here at OTC, this is an evolving analysis on the rapidly changing landscape of branding and retail, and the pendulum swing of influence from marketers to consumers. Please feel free to comment on this essay and add your own thoughts.

Filed Under "Wish I Could Make This"

2009-06-25T14:46:00.007-04:00

Michael Williams, the maestro behind A Continuous Lean, without a doubt one of my favorite men's lifestyle blogs, is hosting a pop-up flea market in New York this weekend. It actually kicks off tomorrow, from 4-8 p.m., so get there early.

This is no ordinary flea market. With carefully selected items from great brands like leathermaker Billykirk, vintage finds from J. Crew's vault and handmade ball caps from Hatten, I only wish I had the spare time to zip up I-95 and check it all out.

Even the poster is awesome.

Hold On, I'll Be Right Back

2009-06-25T00:01:00.005-04:00

As you may have noticed, it's been a tad quiet here on OTC for the last few days. However, on the other side of the keyboard it's actually been rather busy.

The combination of a big deadline, a wedding anniversary (Eight years - I am a very lucky man) and a big furniture move have led to a couple of days away from Off The Cuff.

But fear not, I'm very much here. In fact, as I gear up to start work on some new OTC posts, including the long awaited "Going Custom - Part Three", I also have a few exciting announcements.

First, I am wrapping up an agreement to provide exclusive fashion, lifestyle and grooming content to a major international corporate website. Second, I will be published in an upcoming issue of a highly acclaimed menswear magazine.

As both of these projects are still in their final phases, I must be appropriately, and annoyingly, vague. Once everything is ready to roll, I'll be able to provide a lot more detail, so please stay tuned.

In the meantime, I have a lot of interesting topics in the pipeline, but if you ever have any questions of your own, please feel free to drop me a line at offthecuffdc@comcast.net.

Repurposing: A Follow-Up

2009-06-19T21:00:00.004-04:00

Just a quick note to point out that Off The Cuff made it to the big leagues, sort of.

We were quoted in today's Express newspaper's Blog Log (page 36). For non-locals, Express is the very popular DC commuter newspaper published by the Washington Post. So in my own little world, I like to think that, really, OTC was picked up by the Post.

Post staffers apparently appreciated my ingenuity when dealing with those too-short pants, outlined in the recent "repurposing" article. Thanks for the shout out, guys! The link above is for the interactive PDF issue, you can find the web site here.

And by the way, I read Express every day...not that other one.

Repurposing Your Wardrobe

2009-06-15T16:43:00.006-04:00

Last week an interesting thing happened. As I headed out the door to catch the Metro and head to the office, I realized that my pants were too short. Way too short.

Now, I pay fairly close attention to my wardrobe, as you might guess, and I know that all the pants in my closet should fit. Some are more fitted than others, but when it comes to the basics –like length– they all should fit just fine.

I was already running late and did not have time to turn back so I decided to deal with my errant trousers at work. The lightweight poplin pants from J. Crew were fairly new so this turn of events was a bit odd.

Once I took a good look at the hem, I had an on-the-fly solution. Using my handy Swiss Army knife, I quickly ripped out the seams. In just a few minutes I had a new pair of shabby-chic summer khakis in the proper length. Since there is now no room for a new turned hem, I plan on having the bottoms stitched as is with a somewhat raw edge. Though I hate to admit it, in retrospect I think the legs lost their length in the wash – so I’ll take the blame on this one.

I bring up this story because that same day I happened to be wearing a Charles Tyrwhitt banker-stripe shirt that also suffers from length issues. In this case, the sleeves were exactly too short for my arms. The French cuffs landed just above the wrist bones and as a result they just never fit correctly. I loved the shirt but could never wear it as intended.

So, instead of throwing it in the donation pile, I found a simple and stylish solution: I rolled up the sleeves. In fact, because the sleeves we too short to begin with, once rolled up, they fit perfectly without any excess bulk.

Since then, that shirt has been my repurposed “dressy casual” rolled sleeves shirt. Since it has a spread collar and high-set second button, it looks just right with no tie and the sleeves rolled up. Paired with trim khakis and loafers, the whole look strikes a nice Michael Bastian-ish tone.

The fact that I had to perform emergency surgery on my (formerly) dressy summer khakis, while wearing my repurposed “dressy casual dress shirt” seemed somehow appropriate and led me to think about the act of choosing to repurpose good clothes that are just exactly no longer usable.

I say “just exactly” because these are the pieces you still like but are no longer right for regular wear because of an ancillary issue (too short sleeves, too high hems or a too tight collar) and not a primary defect (waist too tight/loose, too narrow leg, major staining or irreparable tear).

As long as it’s otherwise comfortably wearable, you can probably save the item, either through one of my incredibly clever methods described above or through another equally creative approach provided by your tailor.

So, before your toss formerly beloved garments from your wardrobe, take a second look at that shirt, or those pants. If you can repurpose them, then by all means give it a shot. But if they’ve reached the end of the road, pull the trigger and make a donation so that someone else can benefit from your good taste.

Father's Day Sale - Ashley Ashoff Ties

2009-06-13T22:56:00.006-04:00

I am very happy to announce that Ashley Ashoff is offering OTC readers 30% off of her tie and pocket square collections for Father's Day.

Ashley's beautiful ties and squares are a longtime favorite of OTC.

All you have to do is send an e-mail with your order selections to salesinfo@ashleyashoff.com, and mention that you are an Off The Cuff reader.

OTC Reading List: Monocle

2009-06-10T23:17:00.009-04:00

As an avid reader and hardcore information junkie, I’m always on the lookout for the perfect publication; the one which combines news on culture, style, design, architecture, clothing, art, politics, and global affairs.

While OTC focuses primarily on the physical side of style and culture – clothing, bags, shoes, ties, watches, etc. – equally if not more important is one's intellect.

Being aware and literate about what's going on in the world is, frankly, far more vital than what shirt you're wearing. There are many, many pretty faces out there with nothing worthwhile to say; do not be another one.

Can you talk about world affairs, the environment, or trends in design? Do you have an opinion on art or literature? If you are American, do you actually understand what's going on in other parts of the world? Sure, you like clothing, but do you appreciate changes affecting the business side of Savile Row or the environmental impact of mass market fashion retailers?

What do you know about global culture; craft vs. commodity?

When it comes to getting useful information about the big picture of global culture and style, Monocle is simply outstanding.

I have written about and referenced Monocle before, but I feel this remarkable multimedia publication deserves some additional attention.

The Monocle shop

What is Monocle? First, it’s a remarkable magazine. Each substantial issue is divided into sections covering affairs, business, culture, design, and edits. It's packed with news, policy, insights, reviews, trends, and products from across the globe. As an American, I greatly appreciate the fact that the U.S. is treated as just another country, which helps provide a truly global feel to the magazine.

In fact, I was once chatting with New York clothier Jay Kos, a successful menswear entrepreneur and owner of his eponymous Fifth Avenue shop, and he told me that Monocle was about the only news source he bothers with.

Second, Monocle is a fully functional mixed media website. It’s like the magazine gone digital. Print articles from recent issues come to life online in video segments narrated by the story’s authors. Those with a subscription can access additional material, videos and news.

Monocle's website

Third, Monocle is a brand. In addition to the magazine, lovely enough to stack on your coffee table by the way, and the website, Monocle has a collection of branded products.

Elegantly functional things are offered, many created specially for Monolce; from bags to furniture, Skeppshult V-Bikes to Valextra notebooks. They can be purchased through the website, the magazine or by visiting Monocle's small pop-up stores located in Marylebone (London), Los Angeles and, shortly, Palma de Mallorca.

Tyler doing Monocle Weekly

I’ve also become a big fan of the Monocle Weekly, a downloadable podcast akin to an NPR culture/news/interview radio show. Great for the Metro ride into work.

I’ll leave you with founder and Editor-in-chief Brule’s own description of this remarkable venture:

With a keen focus, strong reporting, sharp wit and more classic approach to design, we’ve dubbed our venture Monocle....Focused on informing and entertaining an international audience of disillusioned readers, listeners and viewers, it is our intention to create a community of the most interested and interesting people in the world.

OTC For Ivy Style

2009-06-03T23:14:00.004-04:00

I recently had the opportunity to be a guest writer over at Ivy Style, a site of encyclopedic scope dedicated to the living history of classic Ivy League style, and lifestyle.

That Christian even thought my writing is up to Ivy Style's considerable standards is enough of an honor. My piece on the legendary Tom Watson, the man behind IBM's rise to global prominence (and a natty dresser to boot) was just posted.

If you have a few minutes, please hop over to Ivy Style and check it out.

OTC Discovery: True Wind Sailcloth Bags

2009-06-01T17:11:00.017-04:00

I grew up sailing 420s on Long Island Sound and still have a real love of the water. Sailing, as with many physically challenging sports, makes you appreciate the quality and construction of your equipment and accessories.

For example, Sperry topsiders are beloved by sailors because they actually work well and last. They look pretty good too, especially after being waterlogged a couple of dozen times.

Storage is another big issue, and a good bag is worth its weight in waterproof sailcloth. There are several companies that manufacture tote bags and duffels out of recycled sailcloth – my wife has a cool one with the original number “4” stitched on the side.

But only one company, True Wind, is manufacturing its bags out of brand new Dacron sailcloth, the same stuff that is normally turned into the sails that power some of the world’s top racing boats. From the ground up, True Wind’s bags are uniquely designed and built like tanks.

A classic 420 under sail!

Their sailcloth is custom woven in Ireland by Hood Sailmakers, the world's oldest Dacron sailcloth manufacturer, and the only sailmaker in the world that weaves its own cloth.

Hood's legacy goes back to its founder, the legendary yachtsman Ted Hood, and was the first company in the world to use man-made fiber (Dacron) in sailmaking. Almost from the beginning, Hood sailcloth has been the cloth of choice for some of the largest and most prestigious cruising, classic, and racing yachts in the world.

For True Wind, using custom woven sailcloth gives them total control over the cloth's color, hand and finish. In production terms, that means the cloth is of consistent high-quality from one bag to the next. Speaking of production, each bag is made individually by hand, and completely made in America.

Ditty Bags

The price point for True Wind bags is higher than some other sail cloth bags, but as owner Roger Marquis pointed out to me, you really get what you pay for. Premium materials and attentive domestic production make these bags legitimate heirlooms.

Everything that goes into his bags is well thought out. The solid brass hardware even comes from the same manufacturer that produces for Coach. All of the other materials, right down to the thread, is marine-grade and of the highest quality.

From a design perspective, True Wind's bags are genuinely unique. The distinctive stripe pattern takes its inspiration from maritime signal flags; “Y” to be exact. Most of the recycled bag brands all use the same design of numbers and draft stripes, which are the thin strips of color that go across a sail to help the sailor see the shape of the sail. While this random element of “found design” can be appealing, sometimes those bags can take on too-rustic a look.

The Navigator Duffel Bag

One last point, and this is a personal thing, has to do with functionality. Since True Wind’s sailcloth material is brand new and its bags purpose built, I feel that I could beat the heck out of one and not worry about it. Bags made out of recycled sailcloth are, to me, more of a fashion item – perfect for a cool tote bag, but perhaps not for a duffle bag headed towards an airline baggage handler.

To learn more about True Wind bags, check out the company’s website. By the way, their bags make a great Father's Day or graduation gift and can be monogrammed.

As an aside, True Wind is a genuine family business. The company was founded by a brother and sister team who grew up spending their days sailing off the coast of Long Island – who wouldn’t like to have that back-story?

How Not To Dress Like Your Grandfather

2009-05-28T16:46:00.012-04:00

I was recently contacted by a young gentleman in Sweden who asked that I help him with his style of dress.

This 25 year-old man is drawn to a very classic clothing; so much so, that his friends felt he dressed like an old man. “You need to dress for your age,” they said. Black, all black, was the recommendation.

Preferring East Coast Ivy League sensibilities, this sharp fellow contacted Off The Cuff for some advice.

Let me just say up front that my Swedish friend has made some changes to his style and now presents a truer, age-appropriate classic version of himself, as the lead-off image above shows (yes, that's really him).

"You see, I feel like I'm stuck in a rut. I've always tended to dress classically. I'm quite the fan of British clothing and the Ivy League look. But, I also like the boldness (and in many cases perfect simplicity) of the Italian way of dressing. And I almost never wear black."

"My main concern is that lately, especially the last couple of years during the fall; I've become more experimental than ever when it comes to colours and patterns. This has made for a very, shall we say, busy look, from time to time. Also, I've become narrower in my way of dressing. I feel extremely casual even with a dress shirt, chinos and a v-neck or crew neck. Almost like I need a jacket to feel properly dressed. This has generated looks that have made me look very, very old. And not in a good way, I'm afraid."

"Today for instance, I wore khaki coloured chords (which have stretched out to become quite baggy), a white OCBD, an olive v-neck, a brown tweed jacket with suede elbow patches, suede Chelsea boots and a bright orange paisley tie. This outfit combined with my somewhat hefty body made for a really old look."

This is actually a common problem I tend to see in certain Trad/Ivy League aficionados. In their zeal to capture the truest essence of “preppy,” they wind up making caricatures of themselves.

The outfit described above is about as grandfatherly as one can get. While the individual components are quite stylish on their own, together an old, heavy look is created – very much at odds with my reader.

Don’t overdo it in your effort to look classic.

Instead of emulating an entire “look,” be yourself and highlight one or two key wardrobe elements like a blazer or a good pair of wingtips. Pair the key piece with something you already have. Try the hi/low approach: wear the good blue blazer with your favorite classic cut jeans, white oxford and those great wingtips.

Updated: Blazer with oxford & jeans

"I also often wear ties and never put a jacket on without stuffing down a pocket square in my pocket. During summer I seem to loosen up a bit by default, moving to lightweight chinos, Bermuda, OCBDs and polos, topsiders and plimsols."

"My female friends are constantly nagging about how I should stop dressing like a 65 year old. They go on and on about how my way of dressing ruins my 'wild years as a single young guy'. And while my male friends do think I dress very well, bold/cool etc, they also think it can get a little to stuffy and uptight, to the point where they feel a little uncomfortable."

"The general tips I get from my female friends are: embrace black, wear mostly jeans and t-shirts. If you must wear a jacket, wear a black suit jackets and never ever wear a pocket square. And stick to black shoes or sneakers."

"I really don't want to go there, still, I find myself looking at many of my friends in jeans, sneakers and simple shirts, thinking they look great. I just feel too casual and to undressed when putting something similar on."

Personally, I think the issue has a bit more to do with personality than just clothing. He can certainly dress in a classic, East Coast preppy manner but do so in a younger frame of mind. My own take on this philosophy can be found in my "College Professor" column.

In some cases (actually most cases), it is just fine to lose the tie in favor of a pocket square. He could get newer cords or chinos in a trimmer cut that is still comfortable and try trousers with a higher rise and slightly trimmer leg. The same holds true for sweaters, v-neck or crew neck. He can try some more fitted fine-gauge merino sweaters. Not snug, but not baggy.

The merino wool itself is less bulky and will help to give a more modern, less slouchy look. Additionally, this kind of sweater works better in warmer weather when a extra layer is needed.

My reader can also try and create a more coordinated color palate. A tie or pocket square can be used as the shot of color, but it is better let the major wardrobe pieces be the foundation upon which it rests. One can also do this with a brightly colored or patterned jacket. Just make a point to choose one item as your "message" and let everything else step a back a bit and ground it.

An OTC favorite brand, J. Crew (unfortunately not yet available in Sweden) does a great job with this kind of look. Use its examples for inspiration, not necessarily as a literal guide. Their designers do an excellent job updating classic garments for modern style.

Modern & Classic (Sartorialist)

So yes, trust your gut and stick with your own style, but look at yourself with a younger eye. Remember that what we see today as "classic “ preppy and Ivy League dress was, at the time a radical and iconoclastic departure from proper dressing.

The goal for those kids was to take the formal prep school and college uniform and make it their own, to personalize and update it. So interpreting and updating that style for modern life today is really paying it homage.

OTC Recommends: Maurice de Mauriac Zurich Watches

2009-05-21T14:43:00.028-04:00

With the sharp rise of interest in high-end mechanical watches over the past several years, luxury brands like Rolex, IWC Panerai, Omega and Cartier have become interchangeable status objects – with glossy magazine ads, flashy websites and extensive marketing and "ambassador"campaigns to back it all up.

Though each is certainly unique on its own, luxury watches as a category seems to have become relatively commonplace, used more for status recognition than personal expression.

Huge holding companies like LVMH Moet Hennessy-Louis Vuitton, Swatch Group and Richemont have come to dominate the luxury watch market, once the domain of craftsmen.

The craftsmen still exists of course; and one quietly making a name for himself is Daniel Dreifuss, the founder and lead designer of Maurice de Mauriac Zurich. Founded in 1997 and based in Zurich, Switzerland, the innovative company makes a limited number of watches with pleasingly classic styles. Unlike many traditional brands with set models and associated designs, Maurice de Mauriac Zurich’s models are constantly changing – more art than production line.

"Tout ou rien" - everything or nothing - and always a goal in focus: this is Mr. Dreifuss' motto. He wants to transform timepieces from tools into personal and unique companions. And the growing number of Maurice de Mauriac Zurich’s aficionados of want just that.

Where a Rolex Cosmograph is an exceptional and instantly recognizable timepiece, a Maurice de Mauriac Zurich Chronograph Modern is an equally exceptional yet likely unknown timepiece. That is a key to the brand’s growing popularity among the highly discerning horological cognoscenti – discretion and exclusivity.

I recently had the chance to interview Mr. Dreifuss. He pointed out that his brand's exclusivity is the result of his approach to the craft:

"We have a very small controlled production and the watchmakers are highly motivated and love to work here; no chain work, no stress. My watchmakers all have a second job. They are musicians, hi-tech engineers."

"With an average 15 years of watchmaking experience they choose to come here to work - to fulfill an inner wish. What they do makes others happy. This is luxury – to make others happy."

Mr. Daniel Dreifuss

Each Maurice de Mauriac Zurich piece is handmade by Mr. Dreifuss and his team of four watchmakers, recruited from the International Watch Company (IWC). Valjoux 7750s and ETA automatics are used in his extensive selections of chronographs, non-chronographs, classics, vintage and aviation inspired watches.

If a particular style of watch is not in the company’s catalog, he will gladly entertain a custom request. Customization is a welcome and unique feature of Maurice de Mauriac Zurich’s business model.

Perhaps most well known are its famous interchangeable bezels. This innovative option allows you to make your Maurice de Mauriac truly one of a kind. Based on the model of watch, other components can be selected or swapped; be it pushers, dial faces, bands, or even cases. With this unique attention to excessive detail, Maurice de Mauriac Zurich is fast becoming a sought after addition to collectors’ collections.

It also helps that Mr. Dreifuss comes to the watch business through a circuitous route. Having previously been a banker, he brings a creatively fresh and business-oriented approach to his brand. He appreciates equally a watch’s aesthetic and its technical precision. So, in his brand we find an obsession with exacting quality but also a genuine love of design and classically-based originality.

Equally important to Mr. Dreifuss is the provenance of each of his watches. They are Swiss timepieces, crafted in Switzerland by locals: "What many people do not know is that many luxury watch brands which are “made in Switzerland” are assembled and produced in Switzerland by French or Italian workers who every day leave Switzerland to go home from work."

"Our watchmakers live here and work here. There is a strong sense of camaraderie and they see what I give, how much I try every day to find better solutions. We are one team; not boss and underdogs."

The company also develops all of its designs in-house. "I don’t give any design work outside. Most companies farm out design work; that’s why all their watches seem so similar to each other. I’m not mainstream, I want my own way."

As big watch fan, I am excited that a company like Maurice de Mauriac Zurich not only exists but is thriving as well. Mr. Dreifuss and his team show us how honoring the tradition of Swiss watch making can easily include a big shot of creativity and innovation.

And it’s no small thing to note that that review after review has put Maurice de Mauriac Zurich watches on par with the likes of Rolex, Tag Heuer and IWC - sometimes even surpassing those iconic brands.

Still, as he told me, Mr. Dreifuss feels that he has much to learn: “[When he started making watches] Breguet was 20 and already a genius. At 60 years old he constructed his best watches. Being in the watch industry - watchmaking - one needs a lot of time; a lot of knowledge, a lot of patience and a lot of passion. I have only 23 years in the business – I have still a long way to go.”

Not content to keep that philosophy at the office, he added, "I’m also a coach and a teacher to my 3 kids; they have to learn empirically same way – I believe in stomach, heart and head."

For more information about Maurice de Mauriac Zurich or to request a catalog, please visit the company’s official website. They also have a dedicated YouTube channel.

Break Out The Ribbon

2009-05-20T10:47:00.019-04:00

The weather is finally kicking into summer mode here in the nation’s capitol, and I’m restocking the OTC closet with a more season-appropriate wardrobe.

Adding color to the mix is standard fare for most women. The flexibility of layering it on while still maintaining a professional or at least classy level of style is a distinct female advantage. For many men, it’s a trickier gambit; how to imbue one’s look with a bit of vibrant personality without looking cartoonish?

While this discussion will cover several areas, right now let’s focus on a favorite option of mine – ribbon belts and watch straps. These flexible and relatively inexpensive accessories are a great way to tone down the formality of office attire while still offering the world a little flash of your personal style.

J. Press

Ribbon watch straps are an incredibly easy way to change both your look and your outlook. Inherently summery, you’ll be amazed at how a preppy grosgrain or NATO strap can change the whole feel of your favorite wrist watch.

Additionally, these straps give your timepiece a breezy, hand-me-down feel which is popular right now. A casual observer might think that your dad wore that vintage looking Omega back when he was studying archeology at Yale - don't bother to correct him.

Smart Turnout

Just make sure to measure the watch’s “lug width.” That’s the distance between the two horns which hold your watch’s strap in place. Typical widths fall in the 18-20 millimeter range and you will want to try and get a strap in the matching size. And avoid chunky watches, they look and feel out of proportion to the thin strap.

English company Smart Turnout makes some of the best ribbon straps I've ever worn. Most of their offerings are 18mm. With striped bands representing British military units and England’s venerable colleges – even a few American Ivys – you can easily find something that fits your personal style.

Smart Turnout

They are easy to swap around, so keep a drawer full and match your watch your watch to your mood. If needed, invest in the little tool that allows you to remove the pins which hold most watch bands in place – it makes life easier.

Ribbon belts are another simple way to add color to your look while falling well within the bounds of great practical style. Lightweight and casual, they are a great option for adding a bit of punch or distinctiveness to an otherwise plain outfit. An overly dressy belt is one of those things that can drag a summer/weekend outfit down, even “casual” leather belts that are better suited to jeans.

J. Press

Ribbon belts are also an inexpensive way to give your style a little seaside punch. Companies like Ralph Lauren, J. Crew, J. Press and Vineyard Vines offer stripes, critters, solids and plaid versions that make choosing one an easy exercise in personal messaging. These patterned options are well matched to the traditional summer solids of navy, white and khaki.

Good examples of matching patterns & colors

It’s also a creative way to throw a subtle sartorial curve ball in the workplace. On occasion, I’ve worn my J. Press blue and white narrow striped ribbon belt with an otherwise typical gray business suit. It’s a neat little twist and frankly, some people don’t even notice.

Italian cool

Solid ribbon belts are a great choice if you want a casual touch but still like the idea of keeping it a bit more subtle. Solids also work best when you don't want to compete with another key article of clothing - madras short or a patterned shirt for example.

Review: The Man's Book

2009-05-15T11:03:00.007-04:00

After some back-and-forth with a very nice PR rep, it arrived. Here, I thought, we have yet another "guidebook for guys." After all, men finally seem to be getting their due when it comes to lifestyle guides, how-to books and advice sites (OTC being one of the earlier ones, thanks you very much!).

So, when I was asked to review a pre-release copy of The Man's Book, by Thomas Fink, I thought I had this one pretty well sorted out.

It turns out that I am only partially correct.

Yes, it is a guide for guys. But really, it's an encyclopedia for how to be a man. Unabashedly "guy," it covers classics like instructions on how to best do bent knee sit-ups and organizing a game of beer pong. But it's a lot more than that. A whole lot more.

From details on wine tasting (pg. 115) to dressing for a white tie event (pg. 70), this guide book is a jack-of-all-trades addition to your library.

From the publisher:

The Man's Book is the authoritative handbook for men's customs, habits and pursuits – a vade mecum for modern-day manliness. Organized in a man-logical way, it records unspoken customs, catalogs essential information, and guides you through the sometimes complex rituals of a man's life. It is also up to date: it notes the latest trends and anticipates what lies ahead.

At a time when the sexes are muddled and masculinity is marginalized, The Man's Book unabashedly celebrates being male. Chaps, cads, blokes and bounders, rejoice: The Man's Book will bring you back to where you belong.

I learned that there are eight ways to tie your shoes - eight. I think that maybe I have used three at the most, more often just one. I'm now feeling a bit inadequate in the footwear department.

For those so inclined, Mr. Fink also co-authored a book entitled The 85 Ways to Tie a Tie. For this smaller tome he pared the list down to a mere 15 options (pg. 74). In his day job Fink is a theoretical physicist, so his brevity, such as it is, is greatly appreciated.

Overall, this is a truly creative and useful little book. Incidentally, while this is its first U.S. printing, the current edition of The Man's Book is actually its third, having been published in Europe for several years.

Much to my chagrin, there is actually more interesting and remarkably practical information than you can shake a stick at. I love it. And since it will most certainly make me seem extra witty and world wise, It's also going on the top shelf.

China's Terra Cotta Warriors Make Rare Visit to DC Museum

2009-05-14T11:35:00.006-04:00

Living and working in Washington, D.C., definitely has its perks. One day I’m in the elevator with Fox News heavy hitter Chris Wallace and the next day it’s former majority leader and almost-DHHS secretary Tom Daschle. And by the way, Daschle is a very sharp dresser. It’s a pretty cool town.

Even cooler though, is that we have some of the most stunning museums in the world and are home to leading research and exploration organizations like The National Geographic Society. I was recently contacted by National Geographic and asked to help promote their museum’s upcoming exhibition - Terra Cotta Warriors: Guardians of China’s First Emperor.

I strongly believe that being interested in the world and having some level of intellectual curiosity are very stylish traits, so I am more than happy to oblige. Of course, growing up I also wanted to be Indiana Jones, so the fact that National Geographic likes OTC is pretty awesome!

Running November 19, 2009 – March 31, 2010, the exhibition is an in-depth look at the First Emperor’s historic tomb complex and showcases 15 life-size terra cotta figures, which represent soldiers, servants, musicians, acrobats and animals. The exhibition includes many other objects such as ceremonial stone armor, weapons, and bronze birds.

This is a truly remarkable opportunity to see one of the ancient world’s great wonders. Unless you have a trip planned to China in the next few years, this is possibly your last chance to see the warriors! The National Geographic museum will host the warriors in their last scheduled U.S. appearance, meaning it will be ages before they are back in the United States.

Tickets for the exhibition are a very reasonable $12. To learn more about the discovery and history of China's amazing 8,000 strong terra cotta army, please visit National Geographic’s website or the exhibition’s very own blog.

Stay tuned for updates.

Summer Argyle

2009-05-12T10:36:00.006-04:00

I have always tended to think of argyle as an Autumn thing.

To me at least, argyle's fundamental overlapping diamond motif has a certain heavy warmth which reminds me of bundling up on crisp mornings to walk the dog. Maybe it's the historic pattern's Scottish heritage or its current prevalence in sweaters and thick socks, but it just makes me think "warmth."

This is not a bad thing, just a stylistic association that I never much thought about. Then, a few weeks ago, my friends over at Smart Turnout, a favorite OTC brand, let me know that they were adding argyle socks to their already extensive and colorful lineup. A short while later a pair of the RAF argyles (shown above) arrived at my door.

I have generally tried to avoid touting lots of brands on OTC, mostly because I like what I like and have never tried to be shopping resource. I don't want to have to run through 18 options for great khakis when I like Bill's Khakis and that's that. Like Bill's and Smart Turnout, several keep popping up because they make excellent products that reflect OTC's own brand and sense of style. With that in mind, my cold weather argyle philosophy went out the window once I pulled on these socks.

One of my beefs with argyle socks is that they always seem to feel a bit stiff and bulky. The weaving process often leaves the sock's interior a tad bumpy and, to me, unappealing. These are smooth and seamless without any sense of bulk. I fact I'm wearing them right now and feel comfortably summery.

As a fan of regionally crafted goods, it's also nice to hear that they are a truly English product - from the raw material to the hand finishing.

Personal Style Is The Truest Style

2009-05-10T01:50:00.006-04:00

Maximilian Sinsteden is going places. The 21-year-old college student isn't just a budding interior designer and bon vivant.

Nope, he's already opened his own firm and recently completed his first commission; a 78-foot motor yacht.

Max has already worked for classical designer David Easton and design powerhouse Charlotte Moss. This kid is already on his way to huge; what did you do during your college summers?

As Moss noted in this New York Magazine article, Max has a gift. He also has style and has no qualms about letting you know what he likes.

While at Choate Rosemary Hall, he was names "Preppiest in the Class". That about says it all, but when you see how he assembles a space and gives it a kind of deep, personal character; that's when you know you are seeing something rare.

Max relaxing at school

What really makes Max stand out though, apart from his great sense of style, form and balance, are his drive and personal vision. The pictures here are of his dorm room. Let me repeat that: his dorm room.

Read more about Max, and his dorm room, HERE. And learn a little something about taking chances and letting your own sense of style be your guild.

Great Interview on Ivy Style

2009-05-02T11:53:00.019-04:00

Check out this interview with documentary film maker and columnist Jamie Johnson over at Ivy Style.

Christian Chensvold leads a great discussion with Johnson, who filmed one of my favorite makes-you-squirm-in-your-seat documentaries, "Born Rich."

Jamie's position as heir to the Johnson & Johnson fortune and an interest in history and psychology give weight to his honest observations of those born to wealth. If you haven't seen it, "Born Rich" is an unflinching and mostly unflattering first-person examination of the wasted opportunities provided to many of society's wealthiest children.

Jamie Johnson is a rare kind of man; raised in the lap of luxury and opportunity but driven to understand what that means how those like him fit into the world.

Sure, it's easy to spend your time on such seemingly esoteric endeavors when money is literally no object. But wait until you see what many of his peers do to occupy their free time - you'll probably want to hand out torches and pitchforks.

Traveling With Style

2009-04-29T00:17:00.013-04:00

Traveling, whether for business or pleasure, can be a stressful endeavor. And if you are not well prepared, it can also be a disappointing one. As with most of life the key to success is often nothing more than preparation and perspective.

By planning ahead, playing well with others and accepting that stuff happens, you are more apt to be the kind of person who others actually don’t mind being stuck with for a few hours.

Now, I live in the real world so let’s agree that traveling by plane or train can be fraught with potential problems. Late or canceled flights, speed restrictions, or damaged track are but a few of the many things that can lead to a feeling of powerlessness, resulting in frustration and anger.

While such problems can throw off even the best planning, more often than not it’s the creature comforts and day-to-day travel issues that really cause the most stress. Here are a few simple things you can do to reduce some of the stress and maybe even enjoy traveling a bit more.

Dressing for Travel
Regardless of the reason for my travel, I always dress as though I am going to run into someone important. For business, that means wearing a suit and good shoes and packing the casual stuff. For pleasure, I usually pass on the jeans and wear a nice pair of khakis or corduroys and have a blazer or sweater handy.

My main goal is to always dress well and be comfortable, but not look as though I am heading off to clean the garage. I make a conscious decision to look better than I have to look. Part of my reasoning is that when I dress well and bring a small selection of multipurpose clothes, I don't need to pack as much.

Casually sharp for the plane

Moreover, I choose to take a stand against the annoying trend of sloppy and disrespectful travelers. Dressing nicely shows respect to my fellow passengers and to the airline or train crew. I am entering their office, their workspace. If I would never dress like a slob to visit a client’s office, why would I do so in the intimate environment of a plane?

Travel experts tell us over and over that how you dress directly impacts the treatment you get from gate agents and flight crews. Just accept it; you are judged by how you dress. Everyone makes these kinds of judgments; we just don’t like it when it happens to us and the outcome is not in our favor.

Packing
As a regular business traveler, it goes without saying that I always try and get everything I need in a carry-on bag. If that’s not possible, I’ll pack just my essentials in the carry-on and pray that my checked bag arrives when and where I do.

Remember not to over pack your carry-on; otherwise you’ll have a whole new level of frustration trying to squeeze it into a too-small overhead compartment. And when that doesn’t work, and it usually doesn’t, it gets gate-checked and you lose all that stuff you wanted to keep handy.

I have always had an issue with checked bags because I have never been able to find the right one for my needs. I have a great rolling carry-on that is perfect for a week and a hard sided global workhorse that can take a beating.

What I have not had until recently is a good in-between bag. Tough, soft sided, enough room for seven to 10 days and lots of pockets and compartments to keep things in place. With a major trip on the horizon I recently went on the hunt for the right bag.

Hitting the internet tends to be the fastest and most efficient way to find a broad selection of travel briefcases and luggage. I wound up ordering a 28” Samsonite Solana spinner. For me, it’s just right; sharp enough to be unique but functional enough to absorb the abuse of automated baggage handler systems.

The stylish Samsonite Solana

With business cases and day-to-day luggage, I am happy to invest in beautiful leathers and craftsman quality. But when it comes to checked luggage, the wardrobe’s workhorse, I want practical durability. If nothing else, it makes life easier and that makes travel easier.

Attitude
The subject of attitude means a lot to me. I spent a great deal of my younger years in the retail environment, which is all about relationships. While I always wanted to do well by my customers, I am of the belief that the customer is not always right. Often, yes. Always, no.

The customer is not the most important person in the store. The line salespeople are; as are the managers, stock room, and shipping staff. Staff is what makes companies succeed and when you have staff that wants to give their customers the best service possible, everyone wins. Permitting customers to run roughshod over your employees is totally counterproductive. This is not saying employees are always right, it just means they are not human punching bags for cranky customers.

Treat airline staff, or any other staff for that matter, with respect and patience. You may be ticked off, but would you want to switch places with the gate agent who just announced that a flight was canceled?

When front line staff recognize that you are an adult and that you understand they do not, in fact, run the company, they are more likely to remember and look after you.

A few years ago, my wife and I experienced this first hand on a trip to Europe. After a horrible drive to the airport though pounding rain, we were met with a disorganized sea of angry travelers and ultimately the flight was canceled. When I finally made it to the counter, I knew we would never get on the next flight out. I was angry and tired but made every effort not to take it out on the airline agent; it wasn’t her fault.

I was as reasonable as possible under the circumstances, expressed my exasperation and made it clear that I was venting in general, but not at her. It must have paid off somewhere because when everyone was finally issued tickets for the new flight we were upgraded to first class.

Going Custom - Part 2

2009-04-20T16:01:00.013-04:00

I wanted to give everyone an update on the progress of my VM Clothiers custom suit. I am very happy to say that it is now in my hands after being literally hand carried back from Hong Kong. Part 1 of this series can be found HERE.

I’m now in the process of putting it through a few real-world workouts. Overall, my immediate impression is a good one and I am very happy with the quality, fit, feel and construction.

I’ll get back to you with a more detailed review, but first I'd like to share some great pictures of the suit taken as it was being constructed in Hong Kong.

All of these images are courtesy of Vishal Mirpuri, owner of VM Clothiers.

My suit's stencil

First, a stencil is created for each individual panel of fabric that will be sewn together. The stencil is based on the measurements and instructions taken from the suit's order form. Order forms tend to be very detailed as there are so many variations available to the customer. They can range from basic options like single or double vents to exotic interior pocket configurations.

They then cut the individual panels of fabric using the stencil. Each customer's stencil is kept on file for future orders.

Once the primary pieces of the garment are assembled, the master sewer takes over and begins the exacting process of sewing the jacket together. This includes major tasks, like sewing the arms to the jacket's body and more detailed work, like creating button holes.

After the jacket is sewn together, finishing touches are made, including setting the jacket's final shape. The photo at the top if the page shows this stage. The white basting thread is left in place until the jacket is ironed into shape.

Above, you see the tailor making some final adjustments during a quality control review. Each suit is inspected to ensure everything has been done correctly.

This is the point when it all comes together - measurements and construction, balance, details, style and the many unique variations that make a custom suit "custom".

A rack of finished suits

Investments: Buying A Watch

2009-04-10T16:19:00.018-04:00

When it comes to watches there tend to be three types of people. The first views a watch as a tool – it tells time and maybe what day it is. To this person, a watch is functional and is not an investment per se; it is a commodity. This man may spend some time on choosing his watch, but the choice will likely be based on finding the biggest bang for his buck. How much does it cost? How long will the battery last? Is it waterproof?

Then there are those who barely see the need for a watch. To this guy, telling time is what a cell phone is for. Better yet, that’s what his iPhone is for; and it’s the only thing he ever carries. He doesn’t need a wrist watch because, hey, this is 2009. For him, this is a normal evolution – watches are obsolete or at least a redundant hassle.

The final category is for the men who believe that a watch, particularly a well-crafted mechanical watch possesses an intangible and emotional power that an iPhone, with all its bells and whistles, can never match. To this guy, a watch is far more than a timekeeper. It is a combination of art, science, and horological functionality which together create something more significant than a mere tool.

I think it’s safe to say that I fall into the latter group.

The things you carry and use every day should have not only purpose, but meaning as well. Watches are an important and very personal way for a man to express his style and individuality. Apart from cuff links, and perhaps a bag, we really don’t have many options when it comes to displaying a little flair in our daily routines.

As men have increased their focus on style, elegance, quality, and a need to differentiate themselves from others, watches have evolved as well. From the pedestrian Timex to extravagant Breguet, quartz to chronometer, watches have become the men’s accessory linchpin. Your watch says a great deal about what you value.

And “value” may indeed be the operative word. Depending on your bank account and inclination, the choices are many. For those seeking a day-to-day workhorse, Times, Seiko and Citizen all offer practical and reliable models in the $100 range. A good resource for nicer watches at reasonable prices is Princeton Watch. At the other end of the spectrum, should price come a distant second to mechanical excellence, Patek Philippe’s timeless Calatrava in white gold can be yours for about $25,000.

The Mechanics of Mechanical
Though there are many types of watches, one particular category has shown marked growth. In one of those interesting juxtapositions, mechanical and automatic watches - which demand almost daily manual involvement - have increased in popularity even as automated technology dominates almost all aspects of our lives.

With hundreds of moving parts and complex “complications,” these anachronistic machines have not fallen by the wayside, the victims of progress as one might expect. Whether they are objects of status or the focus of a collector’s fascination, mechanical watches are more popular than ever.

To many, they possess a character and personality not found in mass-produced commodity timepieces. There are two primary ways in which a mechanical watch operates: manually wound and automatic.

"Manually Wound" refers to the fact that the watch requires the wearer to physically wind up the watch to make it work. Once the spring runs down, the watch stops unless it is re-wound.

"Automatic" watches have a counterweighted engine that, once wound, automatically rewinds itself through your body's natural movement. Many of the most recognized watches are automatic, including the Rolex Submariner.

Rolex Submariner

Automatics are the more popular of these two styles for an obvious reason – as long as you regularly wear it, your mechanical watch will always be ticking away. Manually wound watches are often coveted by collectors or those who look forward to the daily ritual of winding it up. The iconic Omega Speedmaster, or “Moon Watch,” so named because it was the first watch worn on the moon, is a manually wound watch. NASA chose it, in part, because of the concern that an automatic watch’s counterweight would be unable to operate in the vacuum of space.

Buzz Aldrin and his Speedmaster

Making a Choice
The past several years gave rise to a definite trend toward larger everyday watches; the Italian brand Panerai being an extreme example. While their Radiomir and Marina models average 44 millimeters, many classically styled sport watches now run a more manageable 40-41mm. The most common case shapes are round, square, and rectangular, though a variety of unique styles fall in between.

Panerai Luminor Marina

Though familiar to high end watches, even some mid-range brands are adding complications (complex mechanical functions) like calendars that can account for leap years, exotic timing, power reserves and multiple chronographic features.

Of course, more complications mean a higher price. Several years ago, Vacheron Constantine succeeded in creating a $1 million watch that contained the most complications ever in a wrist watch. You can still have high-end features without breaking the bank, but most good quality automatic watches will still put you in the $1,500-$2,500 range.

Name brands and precious metals will add to the cost. A stainless steel Rolex GMT Master II lists for $7,000, while a TAG Heuer Grand Carrera runs around $4,000. Finding a lesser known manufacturer who uses quality components and materials without the glitz can help in the area of price. Oris, for example, is an excellent Swiss brand known for its lower prices. In fact, for less than $2,000 there are several models from which to choose, all certified COSC.

Hands down, Swiss watches are still the gold standard and the addition of the "Geneve" badge on your watch ensures that it was not only manufactured with Swiss parts, but assembled in Switzerland. German brands like Tutima and A. Longe Sohn are also highly regarded. Even the United States is seeing a resurrection of domestic watch making though high-end craftsmen like Michael Kobold and his eponymous brand.

Kobold's Flagship Model: The Polar Surveyor

Whatever you get, quality matters; and its presence and absence are equally obvious.

I recently spoke with Jeff Bernard, owner of Bernard Watch Co., a leading online watch store for the secondary market. I asked Jeff what someone should get if he were looking to buy one good watch for everyday use? Jeff indicated that the volatile economy has affecting everyone, including the watch business. However, certain brands hold their value over the long haul. “Brands to consider, “ said Jeff, “are those with better than average resale and they are the sports models in Rolex, Omega, Tag and Breitling.”

Omega Speedmaster Professional

I had a similar conversation with Brian Satchell, Vice President of Operations for Kobold Watch Co. Kobold, a boutique manufacturer of high-end sport and adventure watches counts among its loyal customers The Sopranos’ James Gandalfini, former president Bill Clinton and globetrotting adventurist Sir Ranulph Fiennes to name but a few.

According to Brian, there has been a slight slowdown in orders, but minimal at best. He said that when a customer comes to Kobold for a watch, they already have their Rolex and their Breitling. His customers want a Kobold and come to get one. So, although they may take a little longer to actually pick up the phone, when they do, it’s to buy a watch.

It's Personal
When making your own choice, bear in mind that different watches serve different functions. Sporty models often have metal bracelets or rubber straps which compliment their often bulky profile. Dress or business watches tend to have leather, alligator or crocodile straps to balance out the slimmer profile.

Additionally, just because big is in, don't run off and buy a 47mm Ernst Benz because some celebrity wears one. Can your wrist handle a watch that big - not mine. At least not every day. So, though I may get a watch with a case that large, I already have everyday watches that are a far more proportional 40mm.

Take time to learn about the brands that interst you. Find out about its history and what makes thier watches special. Be honest with yourself about what you can actually afford, but whatever you choose, consider it an investment.

Vineyard Vines: An American Original (Part II)

2009-04-08T23:28:00.015-04:00

Picking up on on the discussion from Part One of this column, let's look at the business side of Vineyard Vines.

Going To College
Early on, the company focused on the college market as a key demographic and it has been a successful effort.

A la Jimmy Buffet, Vineyard Vines has “college tours” that bring the VV lifestyle directly to college students on their campuses. Complete with beach parties and pink foam whale hats reminiscent of Buffet’s “land sharks” they are marketing the Vineyard Vines brand directly to a core consumer audience.

To say that Shep and Ian created and effective and inclusive grassroots marketing environment is an understatement; they knew exactly which demographic they were targeting and how to reach it.

Unfortunately, they might have been a little too successful in that particular market. In the eyes of some, the brand has become somewhat synonymous with beer chugging, rowdy preppy frat boys. While not an image problem per se, this reputation among college and immediate-post college consumers does somewhat degrade the brand’s image within part of its core market.

Unflattering subsets aside, this kind of legwork develops an enthusiastic customer base that sees their support of the brand as part of their own lifestyle. The company has a business unit dedicated to producing customized designs for colleges, their sport teams and fraternal organizations.

Whale heads

To keep these collegiate efforts coordinated and effective, it also has dedicated brand managers who focus solely on the university market; working with student leaders, administrators and sports teams. A key goal of course is that as these students grow up and head off to their own careers, a new supply of Vineyard Vines diehards are ready to open their wallets.

Wearing the Whale
The Vineyard Vines brand also fits nicely into the current trend of preppy/New England Americana we have seen in men’s and women’s wear for the past few seasons.

The company’s classic, some say pedestrian, designs will be in style for years and have a certain malleable nature that engages both New England Gold Casters and Southern preps from key markets like Charleston, South Carolina.

The brand also has an appeal that reaches those who will never set foot on the Vineyard and who will never be part of “that” life. This issue alone spawned a wide-ranging discussion in Part One of this article and even prompted me to write a side column on the issue of branding real life.

As the preppy trend has matured from “see how over-the-top preppy I can be” to a more grown up blending of classic patterns, colors and textures, Vineyard Vines finds itself well positioned to be a sort of baseline purveyor of East Coast preppy. The current economic downturn also provides a silver lining of sorts because customers are drawn to safe, stable, familiar styles now more than ever.

For some then, the traditional designs of Vineyard Vines shirts, pants and shorts represent stylistic security as well as comfort. As a number of readers pointed out in their comments on Part One, Vineyard Vines is no Ralph Lauren. While the two share a seaside/preppy/windswept lifestyle brand, where Ralph is champagne and oysters, Shep and Ian are Sam Adams and lobster rolls.

Family friendly marketing

The brand has never been about highbrow, but it does appeal to the lifestyle sensibilities of many who want some of the privileged coastal life.

Functionality plays role as well. A Vineyard Vines polo, tie, fleece jacket or classic “bare feet” D-ring belt will be in style now, a year from now and probably 10 years from now. To some the brand is very functional, forgettable in fact. A number of people have told me that apart from the whale logo they find those khakis, polos and shorts interchangeable with other mid-market purveyors like Gap or Eddie Bauer.

Their tote bags have become, especially for many young women, signature accessories. Other items like blazers, oxfords, shorts and pants all reinforce the VV lifestyle without the overbearing brand association of a Ralph Lauren-like status issue. The message is often that if you are a Vineyard Vines person, you are a fun loving low key brand ambassador who doesn’t need go out of your way to impress others.

Vineyard Vines' tote bag

Washington, D.C., has also found the brand to be a good fit. Apart from its appealing natural heritage and traditional preppy theme, there is a long running and bipartisan relationship that politicians, particularly from the Northeast, have with Vineyard Vines ties. During his presidential run, Senator John Kerry (D-MA) commissioned blue donkey ties for his staff which quickly attained must-have status. Since then, Vineyard Vines ties and belts sporting donkeys, elephants, and American flags regularly dress up blue or red political operatives from Capitol Hill to K Street.

Even those classic Vineyard Vines totes have been tricked out with blue/donkey or red/elephant trim – no doubt a de rigeur item on the Hill.

The Business of Fun
From a purely business perspective, Shep and Ian are pretty smart guys. They understand the power of branding and customer association to the Vineyard Vines island lifestyle. They are heavily involved in non-profit, good will and social activities in many of their key markets. The brothers understand the financial and marketing benefits of letting their brand grow organically and in markets that make sense.

One of those markets is corporate branding. The company recently announced a lucrative contract with the National Football League to produce neckties and select garments and accessories featuring team logos where one might normally find repeating sailboats.

Paired with an earlier Major League Baseball agreement, the NFL contract is a coup that will extend the Vineyard Vines brand into the profitable sports marketing space.

As reported last December in SportsBusiness Daily, NFL Vice President of Consumer Products Susan Rothman said, "we have ties in the market, but they don't have the quality that Vineyard Vines has." She went on to say that additional team branded Vineyard Vines products are a logical next step.

In addition to its collegiate and professional sports business ventures, Vineyard Vines provides an extensive corporate branding service that captures lucrative company contracts for employee polos, fleece, etc., and corporate gifts, like tote bags, hats and jackets.

Minding The Store
Vineyard Vines has taken a creative approach to its retail outlets as well. The company makes a concerted effort not to cannibalize existing retailers whenever possible. In many cases, they actually partner with their existing retailers in developing a new stand-alone Vineyard Vines store.

The Memphis, TN, store's family owners/partners

This strategy captures local market knowledge and existing customer bases, engenders goodwill with their local partners and consolidates retail channels. It also frees up the corporate team to focus on product development and branding efforts.

At least one of my readers indicated that he feels the company’s product line is too one-dimensional and stylistically limited to support dedicated retail outlets. While a valid point, those products are selling and the stores appear to be doing well.

The company has won numerous awards, including being named a 2008 All-Star Awards winner by Apparel Magazine for outstanding achievements in the apparel industry. Though I heard from several detractors, mostly other bloggers, Vineyard Vines continues to be profiled as case study in creating and building a passionate and successful business.

The company also recently invested in robust back office and supply chain management software so that costs can be controlled and inventory managed across the various retail platforms (web, catalog, company store and retail).

If there is an area of legitimate concern regarding Vineyard Vines’ brand, I think it is the issue of dilution. By broadly moving into so many tangential markets – collegiate, fraternal, club, professional sports, corporate – the Murrays do run the risk of thinning its image and muddling what "Vineyard Vines" means. If I can pick up a dozen San Francisco 49ers VV ties at Marshall’s, exactly how special is that brand? What lifestyle am I really buying?

It’s a legitimate concern and frankly one I suspect has already been mulled over up at the Stamford, Connecticut, headquarters.

An in case anyone is wondering, no, I do not have a stake in the company and no, it is not supporting me in any way. I contacted Vineyard Vines and asked for some time to speak with Shep or Ian but I have not yet heard back. Guys, if you’re reading, I’d love to get your thoughts on all this.

The Challenge of Branding Real Life

2009-03-30T15:17:00.020-04:00

An anonymous gentleman posted the following comment about the recent “Vineyard Vines” column.

He raises a very interesting point and I quickly drafted three paragraphs in response. So, instead of overloading the comment screen, I decided that a more organized response was appropriate.

OTC-

Being a Vineyarder, I've always been a little frustrated with Vineyard Vines. Shep and Ian are great guys, I've run into them in Edgartown plenty of times and they're always cordial, etc.

However, VV has exposed and exploited the "Trad" and "Vineyarder" traditions and lifestyle that I've held dear. Why do they get to exploit an island that, statistically, the average Vineyard Vines wearer will never visit? Some kid in Ohio buys VV sandals with the towns of the Martha's Vineyard on them, and that's supposed to be clever or a good business plan?

I like their stuff and have some myself, however when I see them putting out "cargo-shorts" and goofy sweatshirts, I have to draw a line. They've taken it too far, and it's upsetting.

Therefore, while I understand people's frustration, I myself just cannot accept a company that blatantly exploits the place I've summered all my life.

-Upset

The reader poses an excellent question and I fully understand what he means. Actually, his quandary gets to the heart of what I find so fascinating about brands and marketing.

This sentiment is quite reasonable for someone who feels his way of life, culture or custom is being exploited for another’s material gain. Still, the short answer to his question is that if some kid in Ohio is buying Vineyard Vines flip flops than yes, they do have a good business plan because the point of a business is to sell a product. If they sell a lot of those flip flops, along with polo shirts, duffle bags and baseball hats, than I would say it is a very successful business plan. Of course, that doesn’t mean you have to like it.

I think however that the reader’s issue is not so much with Vineyard Vines’ business plan as it is with what he sees as the commoditization of the Martha’s Vineyard lifestyle. He cherishes what it means to be a “Vineyarder” (i.e., someone who, if they do not actually live there, actually spends frequent time on the Vineyard) and does not like how its distinctiveness has been watered down. Something unique that he loves and values is now accessible to anyone who wants to buy a piece of it.

Iconic Martha's Vineyard

At first, perhaps there was a feeling of pride in the company’s initial success. He might have said, “Vineyard Vines, sure I’ve heard of it, summered there my whole life.” Now that it’s a pretty big brand which seems to be everywhere, not so much. Even worse, from his point of view the brand has lost some of its exclusivity since it even shows up at discounters. As JP noted in an earlier comment, the cache has left the station.

But to me that seems to be a rather self absorbed way of looking at things. Vineyard Vines is a business created by two guys who wanted to celebrate the Vineyard/preppy/New England lifestyle. They succeeded and the brand is now widely available to a variety of customers. Just because you are “over” the initial coolness of a particular brand does not mean it is now valueless. And just because it’s no longer the new thing and instead an established brand (the kind of successful problem never achieved by many retail labels) does not mean that it should stop attempting to remain relevant to the market.

Is it an affront to authentic Vinyarders that they have achieved their goal? This is a question that many fact-based lifestyle brands will face at some point. I had my own issue with Polo/Ralph Lauren several years ago. I got over it of course since I went on to work at two Polo stores, managing one of them.

Though by no means the landed gentry, I spent most of my childhood summers at family homes either on the Connecticut shore or in the mountains of Vermont. Many of my relatives (not I, for the curious) attended Ivy League schools and my immediate family has a long affiliation with Yale. We had enough interesting ancestors to provide us with monogrammed silver and several impressive looking portraits – one with a frame large enough to be briefly considered as a possible mantelpiece.

The upshot here is that when I first encountered Ralph Lauren’s world, I thought it was awesome; a perfected version of a certain aspect of my life. I related to the New England preppy ethos behind the brand and identified with his message. However, as the company grew and expanded into every retail and marketing crevice imaginable, I got a bit irritated.

Polo's Preppy

I felt that he had exploited the regional culture I loved and turned it into a caricature of vain, overly accessorized snobs. These were no longer the people or the rich, cultural heritage I knew. I felt that Ralph Lauren had co-opted a special part of my identity and turned it into just another brand, another ad campaign to sell shirts.

What I felt he disregarded was the very thing I most appreciated; the reality behind the blue blazer-madras-gin-and-tonic-khakis-and-penny-loafers image. That the fancy silver was actually used every day, or that I've always had a blue blazer because I was taught to dress up when appropriate. I liked knowing that what we now see as the iconic rumpled preppy “look” came about for a reason – there is an actual history to it. That is what makes the Official Preppy Handbook such a beloved and sought-after book. For those familiar with the subject matter there is a big nugget of truth in there, along with the obvious tongue-in-cheek humor.

Now some kid in Ohio could sport Polo khakis, a Polo polo shirt, Polo ribbon belt and Polo boat shoes and call himself a “Prep.” Anyone, anywhere could. The whole preppy lifestyle seemed a little reduced and shallow.

However, as I got over my own self righteousness I began to see that the Polo brand was in fact celebrating and expanding upon its preppy base. Lauren was not devaluing it; he was embracing it and moving it beyond its traditional regional and cultural boundaries. While not meaning to sound sappy, Ralph Lauren has probably done more to preserve the idea if not the practice of New England/Ivy League/American preppy life than any other brand or modern cultural influence. He redefined, reinvented really, what classic American lifestyle means.

Of course, Ralph Lauren and Vineyard Vines are two very different companies and I am not making a direct comparison. I do not think that Shep and Ian’s brand has had an equally global impact on the perception or “ownership” of Vineyard life.

Vineyard Vines' Edgartown Store

But I do believe they had the same intentions in founding their company as as Mr. Lauren did with his: to celebrate a lifestyle they love. The true affection for both these two brands, each built from nothing and with considerable risk, is genuine.

I happen to like the Vineyard Vines brand and what it represents. Though I am not a Vinyarder, I sometimes wish I were and if buying a ball cap with the pink whale logo gives me a small emotional connection to what my reader knows so well, then so be it.

If nothing else, it makes me want to be one of those statistical few to actually visit, stay at a nice B&B in Edgartown, shop and have a cup of coffee while perusing The Martha’s Vineyard Times real estate section.

Vineyard Vines: An American Original (Part I)

2009-03-26T18:18:00.017-04:00

Vineyard Vines is a classic American success story. The company, founded in 1998, sells a classic vision: that everyone should enjoy the simple New England seaside life and through their products you can. In times like these, full of turmoil, fear and uncertainly, that message is very attractive.

Vineyard Vines was built by two brothers, Shep and Ian Murray, who both had suit-and-tie Manhattan careers but really wanted to live and play by the water. They quit, started making quirky ties and the rest, as they say is history. Self financed by the seat of their pants, it’s an authentic story. And the company's hats, ties, shirts, short and bags all carry this inherent authenticity that resonates with Vineyard Vines’ customers.

Though host to a variety of product lines, the most well known are their ties which have a similar cache’ to Hermes ties and so are regularly snapped up by suit wearing lawyers, bankers and even politicians.

Founders Shep & Ian Murray

As Ian says, “We started making neckties so we didn’t have to wear them.” That feeling has effectively translated to their customers. For many, wearing a Vineyard Vines tie is a little like saying, “I may have to wear a tie, but I’m wearing a vineyard Vines tie because that’s who I really am – someone who doesn’t need to wear a tie.”

Classic Beachy Designs & Colors

Vineyard Vines’ ties send a message about the wearer, or at least what the wearer wants you to believe about him. Their designs are tastefully neutral but topically ironic. Where Hermes may have interlinking horse bits, Vineyard Vines ties have interlinking beach chairs or gin & tonics. They are statement ties at a very irreverent level and in fact require the wearer to possess some personal confidence; a little “in-your-faceness.”

Vineyard Vines Tie Detail

To my mind, one of the main reasons that Vineyard Vines remains a successful brand, even during these economically challenging times, is because its growth and brand recognition were both the result of an organic process. It’s grown slowly in terms of a national label and by doing so has achieved a certain cult status among the American preppy/Trad cognoscenti.

The brand and its products have a personal and timelessly classic appeal. Most companies spend small fortunes trying to manufacture that magic – Shep and Ian just seemed to stroll right into it. But once the brand stuck, they made a point of effectively managing its growth and sticking to their natural markets.

Branding the Life
At its core, Vineyard Vines can still be considered a cult brand. While its product lines are fairly strait forward New England preppy stand-bys - polos, khakis, shorts, fleece, tote bags - the buzz surrounding the company is still the visceral kind normally associated with newcomers. Not everyone knows about the brand, but those who do are often vocal advocates.

For a lot of their customers, sporting a Vineyard Vines martini glass tie or whale logoed hat, tells people that really they are an individual, not one of the corporate masses. And within the company, there is still a real passion to spread the gospel of Vineyard Vines. With products and price points that range from hundreds to just a few dollars, it’s also a lifestyle brand that people can buy a little piece at a time. This approach is the classic recipe for retail success practiced by the likes of Louis Vuitton and Ralph Lauren.

From the customer’s perspective, moving through the Vineyard Vines world is well thought out presented at a casually human scale. Everything reinforces not only the "VV" lifestyle but also the real people living it. For example, the catalogs feature real people whom the brothers have known for years, not professional models. This practice began out of necessity - the brothers could not afford to hire models - but became a staple of the local and real world ethos that has made the brand so popular and accessible.

The Nantucket Store

The stores are friendly, bright and inviting. You feel the Nantucket-ness in every inch of the place; from the large framed maps of New England coastline to the buoys and nautical paraphernalia scattered across the selling floor. For a native Connecticut Yankee who spent childhood summers on Long Island Sound, it's like going home. Of course, it's a clean, shiny, well designed version of home akin to Polo's take on the classic English country manor house. Better than the real thing but nonetheless inherently true to its roots.

If they'd let me, I would live in the Georgetown store.

The Georgetown Store

On the cyber end of things, the website is visually engaging and makes the visitor feel like they are part of the Vineyard Vines world, or at least that should want to be. There is even a photo gallery so that customers can send pictures of their exploits and celebrations while wearing or using Vineyard Vines products. This last feature is a very effective method for building brand personalization and identification because the customer is literally getting to be part of the culture. It also marries traditional “real world” marketing with aspects of social media and first person reporting.

Part II of this article will take a look at business end of Vineyard Vines, including their successful approach to college grassroots marketing, Vineyard Vines' political connections and their creative model for retail development.