AlwaysEating

Quick Eat: Pig's Feet at The Vanderbilt

2009-12-07T15:04:00.003-05:00

The Vanderbilt in Prospect Heights made a huge splash when it opened earlier this fall. With Saul Bolton at the helm, this shiny, sleek new restaurant quickly became a destination in a neighborhood that not long ago was an eyesore. While critics and diners have had both positive and negative reviews, I thoroughly enjoyed my meal on opening night. Returning for a group party I experienced a slightly revised restaurant, for better and worse.

On my second visit I found that the service slipped from the buttoned-up experience I had and also that some of the dish sizes had been reduced in size. The latter being a bigger issue, as the prices are the same, making this a more pricey endeavor and something the neighborhood will not take kindly to. With that said, the food is some of the best in the area.

A new expanded menu, includes a special of Pork and Chicken Meatballs, and Duck Pate, among others, but a dish I overlooked on my first visit is worth the trip alone, the indulgent Pig's Feet ($10). An ideal dish for the offal or lesser-known cut amateur, this dish is composed of shredded meat and fat packed together and fried up in a crispy box. This fried square of rich pig sits atop an equally indulgent sauce gribiche, a mayo-style cold egg sauce with mustard and pickles, and is finished off with a bright green salad of frisee lettuce. From afar the dish may be small for its price tag, but this is not a dish I recommend consuming alone. For our table of 8, we ordered two of these dishes (among others) and that was more than enough. The crispy, unctuous meat, a smear of sauce and a few crisp bits of frisee make for a remarkably satisfying bite.
570 Vanderbilt Ave, Brooklyn 11238, 718-62309569, Reservations - Not Accepted for parties under 6, Price - Moderate/Expensive ($30-60/person)

Friday Food Porn: Burns BBQ in Houston

2009-12-04T09:04:00.000-05:00

The best BBQ I have ever had from a quiet, off the beaten path location outside Houston, Burns BBQ.

Delicious and Cozy at The Redhead

2009-12-03T19:00:00.000-05:00

The East Village is one of my favorite neighborhoods to dine in. Such a range of options from the Momofuku empire, to Veselka, to PDT, Terroir and Jimmy's No. 43, I likely haven't even begun to scratch the surface. One relatively new restaurant that has received a lot of buzz the past year or two is The Redhead, located on the corner of 13th street and 1st Avenue. This tiny restaurant, flanked by scaffolding for the time being, has become a darling in the food world. Initially opened as a bar, food began to make its way on to the scene little by little until the restaurant ultimately received a 1-star rating from Frank Bruni earlier this year. Their Bacon-Peanut Brittle was an instant success, and is delicious, but they have since been recognized for more than just a bar snack. Known for their soulful, southern influenced cuisine, hearty portions and inviting atmosphere, I was eager to check it out.

I sat at the bar with a friend and after looking over the limited, but solid drink list began to place our order. We started with the Flatbread ($11) appetizer, topped with roasted eggplant, bell pepper relish, Swiss chard and duck sausage. It had a very delicate, buttery crust, but I found it overly sweet from the roasted vegetables and relish. The duck added some meatiness, but not much. Next up, the creative One-Eyed Caesar Salad ($8), complete with a runny cooked egg resting inside a piece of toast. Upon cutting the egg, the yolk drips out over the romaine and mingles with crisp capers making for a silky, salty bite.

For our main courses we shared the popular Buttermilk Fried Chicken ($17) and the Low Country Shrimp. The latter was ordered in an appetizer portion ($12), but was plenty hearty as the shrimp are served over creamy grits with andouille sausage. The shrimp were perfectly cooked and overall this was a very successful dish, one I would definitely come back for. As for the fried chicken, well this was another winner. Amidst the fried chicken craze NYC has undergone I've somehow managed to NOT have any fried chicken. Surprising, but I never rushed to try the best new example of this southern American staple. Well here at The Redhead, the fried chicken is a huge portion, with a massive breast and thigh accompanied by a six inch piece of cornbread and spinach salad. Both pieces of the chicken were tender, moist and had a great outer crunch to them, but the dark meat was the real treat. Beyond juicy, it was saltier and contained more flavor than the white meat, so for you white meat lovers, do not overlook it. The chicken left a bit of grease on the plate, but nothing that I wouldn't expect and the salad was mostly an afterthought. I also enjoyed the cornbread, but wished it had been heated up before serving.

With other dishes like Wild Mushroom Pot Pie, a burger, Duck Confit, Seafood Gumbo and Molasses-Glazed Pork Ribs, one can easily fill up on stick-to-your-ribs dishes all without leaving the East Village. With that said, I will find it hard on my next visit to not get the fried chicken and shrimp and grits again seeing how delicious and simple they both were. If you still have room, we didn't, for dessert there is a small selection including Caramel Banana Pudding, Apple Fennel Tarte Tartin and German Chocolate Cake. As a treat we each received a complimentary chocolate-espresso cookie to take home, a great final gesture to end our meal.

349 East 13th Street, New York, NY 10003, (212) 533-6212, Reservations - Not Accepted, Price - Moderate ($20-40/person)

Photo from Serious Eats/Robyn Lee

First Look: Momofuku Ma Peche

2009-12-03T08:53:00.004-05:00

While much of the food community has already posted their thoughts on the limited menu at the new midtown Momofuku, Ma Peche, I dragged my feet for a few weeks and just now am posting my thoughts. I met fellow Momofuku fan Wined & Dined for a leisurely lunch on the mezzanine, eager to sample the much talked about dishes. After reading the recaps on Serious Eats and Midtown Lunch I had a good sense of what I wanted, so we split the Chambers Burger and Banh Mi Du Maison. The Banh Mi was $10 with a soda as part of the 'Midtown Lunch Special', while the burger is more in the $16 range.

The banh mi was delicious, with an appropriate amount of pate, pork roll and head cheese. It is certainly much smaller than most sandwiches in the area and more pricey than other banh mis, but the quality ingredients really shine through. The daikon provided a nice crunch while the cilantro brought freshness to the fatty sandwich.

I also enjoyed the burger, but found a few flaws. The meat used is a combination of Wagyu and Niman Ranch beef, providing a rich beef flavor, but it was a little underseasoned on my visit. Topped with two slices of cheddar (American and Swiss are also available), the cheese could have been more melted, as you can see in the photo, and the accompanying fries were pretty poor. The burger is a solid, juicy burger and was cooked to the right temperature, but I am confident that Ma Peche can put out a better product. I'd also like to see the fries improved, they seemed like an afterthought and not up to the standards that Momofuku restaurants generally have. The brioche bun wasn't my favorite, but it wasn't overly sweet so I can't complain.

I look forward to the full opening of Ma Peche, but for now I suggest a nice sit down lunch on the mezzanine for those looking to up the quality of their midtown lunch without dropping a fortune.
Mezzanine at the Chambers Hotel, 15 West 56th Street, New York NY 10019, Reservations - Not Yet, Price - Inexpensive/Moderate ($10-20/person)

A Visit to Frank Pepe's Pizzeria

2009-12-03T08:30:00.000-05:00

I make somewhat regular trips to New Haven to visit family, but never before had I been to the famed pizzeria that is Frank Pepe's. Down a narrow street you will find New Haven's Little Italy, complete with Sal's/Sally's (another well-known spot) and a scattering of red sauce joints. The biggest draw though is Pepe's, the pizzeria which claims to be the best pizza in the country and is one of the oldest pizzeria's in America (established in 1925). The latter is definitely a fact, but the best, well I had to see for myself.

On a cold Sunday we jumped in line around 12:30pm and waited about 25 minutes in total, quite manageable in my opinion. The restaurant clearly draws diners from far and near, a couple who knew the staff by name waited behind us while a family of 8 snapped photos of everything they could see. Once seated in the fairly massive dining room among the stiff booths, we began to plot our course. Pepe's is known for their coal oven pizza obviously, but more specifically their Clam Pie. So to ensure we had something for everyone we ordered a small White Clam Pie without Mozzarella ($12.30), a small Tomato Pie with Mozzarella ($7.70) and a medium Vegetable Special Pie ($15.60).

The pies all arrived on large sheet trays, sliced randomly and quickly by our server. Upon first examination the vegetable covered pie looked rather amateur, while the other two pizzas at least had some visual appeal to them. I opted to try the clam covered pizza first and immediately felt the powerful kick of garlic in my mouth and nose. A good first bite, filled with briny clams, olive oil, plenty of garlic and the chewy crust. It was a good pizza, but certainly not something I would go out of my way for. Also of note, be careful of small bits of clam shell, it is an unfortunate bite, but bound to happen. Next up, the plain or tomato pie, the item that all pizzerias should be judged on. This had a distinct look that while appealing, seemed very different from many of the top spots in NYC. The cheese didn't appear to be as high-quality and the sauce was a bit sweet. Most of all, after sitting for just a few minutes the crust became overly chewy and cheese a little gelatinous. While I did enjoy the plain pie I found it did not live up to any of the hype. Lastly, that sad looking Vegetable Pie, covered with onions, peppers, broccoli, and spinach. Very watery from the frozen spinach and other vegetables it was bland and limp. A bit of hot pepper flakes helped a little, but I would definitely advise against ordering this pizza.

One needs to understand the pizza in New Haven is different from that in NYC. Overall the pizza is New Haven tends to be a little thicker, with a bit more sauce than the southern neighbors. Regardless, I was a bit shocked to not be walking out ecstatic with my new pizza experience. Review after review praises this place as one of the pizza meccas in America, but I could put together a handful of places in NY alone that serve better pizza (i.e. DiFara's, Franny's, Lombardi's, Motorino, Roberta's, John's....) While the wait was shorter and prices lower than at DiFara's, the ingredients were not top-notch and flavor just not there. Does Frank Pepe's serve good pizza? Yes, absolutely, it's just not worth going out of your way for let alone standing in a line much longer than 20 minutes.
157 Wooster Street, New Haven, CT Tel. 203 865-5762, Reservations - Not Available, Price - Inexpensive/Moderate ($10-20/person)

Learn to Cook Indian Food with a Friend...For Free!

2009-12-02T11:40:00.004-05:00

The folks at the Indian Culinary Center are throwing a nice little promotion out there for food fans: sign up for a December class and bring a friend for FREE. A steal of a deal when you consider each class is $65/person. You can bring your own wine to the dinner portion of the class so that sweetens the deal even more. A nice little holiday special, or even gift, for the food lover or Indian food amateur looking to expand their horizons. Additional details via the press release below:

Grab a friend and a bottle of wine and head to the Indian Culinary Center on West 23^rd Street for their 2-for-1 holiday special. Register for a class in December and bring a friend for free. All classes include cooking demonstrations, recipes, and an amazing sit down Indian feast. The full schedule is online at http://www.indianculinarycenter.com. To take advantage of the two-for-one offer, emailcook@indianculinarycenter.com.

Classes, which run from December 14 – 20, include: Vegetarian Delights, Simple, Healthful and Economical Meals, Elegant Seasonal Dinner Party, Shop and Cook in Little India, Create your Favorite Restaurant Meals, An Elegant Vegetarian Meal to Entertain With, Kebabs and Tikkas, and a special evening featuring the Street Foods of India and Henna Body Art. Vegetarian options are always available and students are welcome to BYOB for the dinner portion of the class.

Suitable Schnitzel From Schnitzel & Things Truck

2009-12-01T11:20:00.002-05:00

Before the Schnitzel & Things truck caught fire two weeks ago I made a trip over to the popular lunch truck. I'd had their Schnitzel before, but at an event where it was served rather cold, so I wanted to try it out again. I ordered up the Chicken Schnitzel platter ($10) with sides of braised kraut and Austrian potato salad and waited with the hungry, cold crowd on the sidewalk. After about a 10 minute wait my food emerged in a large plastic container. The schnitzel itself is about 6 inches wide and pounded thin it dwarfs the accompanying sides.

Once back to the comforts of my desk I dug in. The crisp exterior of the schnitzel held up to the brief steaming in the container and the interior was somewhat tender. Underseasoned for my taste, I highly recommend a nice squeeze of lemon and maybe some salt, or you can use one of the many sauces the truck offers (I had the decent pesto mayo.) Overall, it was a solid schnitzel considering it came from a truck, but really wasn't anything to travel for. The sides on the other hand were another story. Both sides continued the trend of being underseasoned, but beyond that they were freezing cold. The potatoes specifically were ice cold and really weren't worth finishing. The kraut, while tender was very run of the mill. Perhaps I came on an off day, but I was pretty disappointed with the sides, especially after all of the buzz the truck has received. Maybe I just need to go back and get the burger, the deep-fried burger, or just eat the food immediately, rather than bringing it back to my desk. Regardless, it is still an interesting concept and one worth checking out if only out of curiosity. Follow the truck on twitter for its exact location.

Friday Food Porn: Brookln Flea Pupusas

2009-11-27T09:12:00.001-05:00

This cheese filled delight can be found at the Brooklyn Flea or Red Hook Ballfields. I highly recommend the jalapeno filled option...run, don't walk before they close for the season (BK Flea that is.)

Experiencing the Sublime at Convivio

2009-11-23T22:09:00.001-05:00

Over the past few years there has been plenty of buzz around chef Michael White. His food has landed him numerous Michelin stars and accolades from local and national journalists. Marea, the recently opened, Italian seafood temple landed 3-stars from the New York Times and is one of the biggest openings of the year. With that said, Convivio, White's less expensive NYC restaurant seems to have fallen to the wayside for no good reason. Formerly L'impero, run by Scott Conant prior to his opening Scarpetta, this restaurant was relaunched as Convivio last year by White and partner Chris Cannon. With one Michelin star to its name and a 3-star review from the New York Times, it is no push over, but perhaps just a bit more approachable and less over the top as Marea.

Located on a quiet Tudor City block, the restaurant's massive wooden doors and set back entrance are somehow inviting and intimidating all at once. Upon entering, a small bar is in immediate view and reds, blacks and mirrors decorate the waiting area. The layout is a bit odd, with two floors and an interesting choice of reds, silvers, whites and blacks decorating it, but it all somehow works. Large, slightly cumbersome menus contain a wide range of options, including sfizi (small bites) that our server suggested we order "while we read the full menu." Considering this was a special occasion (belated birthday dinner) we all ordered the phenomenally priced prix fixe menu at $59 for 4-courses. After ordering bread service began, the sfizi arrived and our journey through White's food began.

For a hungry group I'd recommend the sfizi, but the tough part is choosing which ones. With nearly a dozen options we quickly ordered the Pancia, Zucchine and Bruzelle. The Pancia, or tuna belly, was paired with white beans and sofrito, offering a few forkfuls per person and plenty of flavor. The Zucchine was composed of small bits of tender baby zucchini, charred over a grill and then tossed in basil pesto. The Bruzelle, or Brussels sprouts, are also made up of the baby version and tossed in a light vinaigrette. Of the three, the tuna was probably my favorite, but none of them were can't miss dishes.

The more impressive, and substantial courses began with the Antipasti course. Personally I ordered the Fegatini, a crostini slathered with "rustic" chicken liver and topped with marsala onions. With four to an order this is quite a heavy starter, but it was amazing and some of the best chicken liver I've had in recent memory. The other Antipasti dishes at the table included the Quaglia, a grilled quail with pancetta, radicchio, figs and balsamic; as well as the Zepple, baccala and chickpea fritters. The quail was nicely prepared, but needed more salt and the fritters, while delicious, could have been more crispy.

Onto the Primi course where we all of course had pasta (all of which is made in house.) While I ordered the rich Fusilli with a pork shoulder ragu and caciocavallo fonduta, I would have to say my favorite dish here was the Mallorredus, the Sardinian saffron gnochetti with sea urchin, crab and breadcrumbs. This dish tasted like no pasta I had ever eaten before, with its light, miniature gnocchi and buttery-uni based sauce, it combined the best of the sea with stellar authentic pasta. Topped off with crispy, toasted breadcrumbs for texture and this was one of the best dishes of the night. Not to be forgotten, the al dente Fusilli was delicious and the half portion was more than enough considering its richness. The other two pastas ordered were the special, which consisted of pappardelle with wild mushrooms, pecorino and blueberries. A solid dish, it was quickly overshadowed by our other pasta courses.

For the Secondi I opted for an additional pasta course, something I recommend considering how good they are, with the Mezzaluna filled with braised rabbit. The rabbit was tender and the pasta came with escarole, wild mushrooms and a rich brown butter sauce. A huge portion, I all but licked the plate clean. The rest of the table ordered the Creekstone Strip Steak, Branzino special and another fish that I can't recall. The steak was nice and meaty, but would have been better with a thicker crust. Both fish dishes were solid, but I preferred the branzino with capers of the two. We also ordered a side of Pecorino Potatoes, a must have dish that pairs smashed, fried potatoes with a generous heaping of salty pecorino cheese.

As for the sweets, well there were again four of them because of the prix fixe menu. At this point we were all rather full, but the desserts continued the string of impressive dishes. We all shared the Tartaletta di Caramelle, Budino and Crostata di Mela (we ordered two of these). My choice was the Budino, a warm dark chocolate like mousse topped with hazelnut gelato and candied hanzelnut crumbles. It was spectacular, this coming from a savory food lover, and was the favorite of the table. The Tartaletta, a chocolate ganache with shortbread crust, salted caramel and vanilla gelato was also delicious, but didn't have the same appeal as the Budino. The Crostata was filled with spiced apples and topped with a walnut crumble and caramel gelato. It was a perfect cold weather dessert, with the flaky crust, cinnamon and tender apple filling, another winner of course.

Over the course of the meal I enjoyed a nice, but expensive, glass of sparkling wine, a somewhat bitter, but enjoyable Chianti, and a glass of scotch with spherical ice cubes (first time I have had that at a restaurant.) The drink selection is extensive, but it seems a bit overpriced even for a fine dining spot like this. Besides the whispering voice of our server in the loud restaurant (it was pretty ridiculous how quiet she was) nothing during the entire three hour meal disappointed. From good to excellent, dishes from nearly every course were memorable and I'm comfortable calling this one of the best meals I've had in 2009.
45 Tudor City Place, New York, NY 10017, (212) 599-5045, Reservations - Absolutely Neccessary, Price - Expensive ($60-100/person)

photo courtesy of TONY

Friday Food Porn: Paseo's Roast Pork in Seattle

2009-11-19T16:02:00.005-05:00

One of the best sandwiches I've ever had at Paseo in Seattle...too bad it is on the other side of the country!

Cheap, Delicious Izakaya Fare in the Heart of Times Square

2009-11-19T15:45:00.001-05:00

Tucked away under the glow of Times Square on 49th street is a gem of a restaurant (I bet this photo doesn't make you hungry at all.) No it's not the best Applebees or Fridays in town, not Hawaiian Tropic Zone with their scantily clad waitresses, but rather Sake Bar Hagi, a subterranean Izakaya offering good to delicious Japanese fare and a litany of drinks to go with it. Now, I'm not one to ever suggest dining in Midtown, let alone in Times Square, but due to scheduling circumstances the other day I was forced to find something in the neighborhood.

Sake Bar Hagi is barely visible from the street as it appears to share an entrance with a neighboring sushi bar and there is no real sign, just "Sake Bar" on the entrance and a photo driven menu with no name. Descend a small flight of stairs and you forget the bright lights and tourists at street level. The cozy restaurant features a small bar area (for dining) and a two room dining area complete with a few small televisions and photos of sake coating the walls. The menu is a bit hard on the eyes, with plenty of colorful pages, photos and starburst like graphics that reminded me of a comic book, but beneath that lies a wide range of tasty, affordable dishes one generally wouldn't associate with Times Square. From assorted yakitori to donburi, or a number of fried dishes, it is easy to find something that fits your palate. Looking for some diversity I ordered up 5 dishes to share with my girlfriend. Starting with Tuna Sashimi Salad ($8) we were off to a decent start. I found the tuna a bit fishy for my taste, but the wasabi and soy based vinaigrette was quite good. Next up, crispy Deep Fried Chicken Gizzards, something I would recommend for even the most amateur of diners. Yes, it is gizzards, but when fried they taste like chewy, fatty popcorn chicken and at only $5.50 a serving definitely worth it.

Next up, Grilled Yellowtail Collar. One of the most delicious parts of a fish, this dish was quite tasty and the tender, lightly seasoned flesh fell right off the bone. While the serving may appear small, you really need to dig with your chopsticks to get all of the white and dark meat available. I've had better collar, but for $8 it is not a bad dish to order. Rounding out our meal the Sauteed Pork Belly with Cabbage and Salmon Rice Ball were placed on our table. The rice ball had no chance against the pork, and we quickly dug into to the thinly sliced pork and crisp cabbage. Seasoned with a spicy, sesame-based broth this was by far my favorite dish of the night. A heaping portion only runs $9 so I highly recommend it. The rice ball on the other hand was a bit overcooked and the roasted salmon was overly fishy and dry, good thing it only costs $3.

With plenty of the menu left for me to try I can see Sake Bag Hagi becoming a great back pocket option when in the area. Topped off by the fact that they close at 3am and this place is an Uptown or Midtown drinkers paradise for late night eats. If i lived closer (and ever went out in this area) I would probably be here a few times a month.
152 W 49th Street, New York, NY 10019, Reservations - Not Available, But Waits Can Get Long, Price - Inexpensive/Moderate ($15-30/person)

Burgers Galore at Philly's Village Whiskey

2009-11-17T11:11:00.002-05:00

I'm very passionate about hamburgers. I am also very particular about them. So when I read the menu at Village Whiskey in Philadelphia, PA I was a little skeptical. Not because of the chef, the famed Jose Garces who's food at Amada was very impressive, but because of the style of the burgers. I like my burgers on the thin side, a la Shake Shack or In-N-Out, but here at Village Whiskey they serve jaw-breaking 8oz meat bombs. This isn't a bad thing per se, but it gave me initial doubts about how much I would like it. Well, after an epic wait, followed by gracious service, I finally had a chance to dig in.

The epic wait all began because Village Whiskey is just plain popular. So popular that they have a bouncer at the door to provide some breathing room to the seven tables and tiny bar inside. Once inside, after about 1.5 hours waiting at a bar next door, the wait continued. However, this portion of the wait was caused not by the restaurant necessarily, but by somewhat inconsiderate diners. Now, this is a hotly debated subject among friends of mine. Is it wrong for a table to take their time at a restaurant knowing full well that people are desperately waiting for their table? Well, no, in my opinion it is not wrong, to a certain extent, but what is wrong is going to a high turnover, intensely popular restaurant and sitting at the table for 3-4 hours, especially when you have had your check for a third of that time. It's one thing to have a leisurely meal, but it is another thing to stretch your welcome even as a paying customer.

Well, this was the case at Village Whiskey. So we watched, talked with the servers and began plotting ways to rid our waiting table of these squatters. For almost an hour we stood there, shocked by the sheer lack of respect for us and the restaurant, our servers even confided in us about how annoyed they were (maybe not professional, but understandable.) Ultimately, the servers were sympathetic and when we ordered a few small bites they sent out a handful of additional plates on the house.

Of the many small plates we had, the Spicy Popcorn Shrimp were delicious and paired with what seemed to be a spicy remoulade sauce. The shrimp were cooked perfectly and had a nice balance of crunchy exterior to sweet, tender interior. Sweet Local Red and Yellow Pickled Beets were paired with a very mild fresh whipped ricotta, black olive tapenade and toasted sourdough. Crispy Tater Tots and Homemade Soft Pretzel Sticks were solid drinking snacks, but the House-Made Cheese Puffs were a bit disappointing.

After all of these small bites we still somehow managed to order the massive burgers. As a table we ordered two Village Burgers with Cheddar, a Whiskey King, a Village Burger with Chevre and a Fried Egg, BBQ Pork Sammy (the menu calls it this, not me!) and two orders of the Duck Fat Fries. My personal choice was the Village Burger ($9), an 8 oz. patty, cooked medium-rare and topped with housemade Thousand Island Dressing, bibb lettuce and tomato all on a sesame roll with melted Jasper Hill Cheddar ($3). It was a towering burger, with juices pouring out of it left and right. The bun held up nicely to the heavy amount of meat and liquid, but the lettuce and tomato were rendered to mush after only a few bites. I was pleased to find the burger seasoned properly, the saltiness coming through in every bite, but would have liked it more had it been just 2 ounces smaller. I give Chef Garces credit though, as a thin burger lover, this was certainly one of the better thick burgers I have had. Just below the Village Burger on the menu you will find another option, this one a bit over the top for my tastes (and budget), but nevertheless my good friend swears by it. The Whiskey King's ($24) claim to fame isn't the 8 ounces of meat, or even the Applewood Smoked Bacon, but rather the thick slab of Foie Gras that crowns this behemoth. It doesn't end there though, as the burger also is fitted with Rogue Blue Cheese and Maple Bourbon Glazed Cippolini Onions. Sound excessive? Depends on your personal taste, but even though I love simple and understated burgers, this was impressive to (at least) look at.

While I was here for the burgers, I did also taste the pulled pork. Tender pulled pork shoulder was piled high for this sandwich and topped with crunchy slaw, whiskey BBQ sauce and served with a side of fried pickles. A good sandwich, I found the pork a bit too sweet for my taste, although it was enjoyed by others at the table. As for the duck fat fries, I had high hopes for them, but I preferred the tater tots as my fried potato of choice.

Judging by the name of the restaurant it is easy to figure out that there is more to Village Whiskey than burgers and fried snacks. The bar offers an extremely, albeit expensive, selection of Whiskeys. From the simple Maker's Mark ($6 for 1 oz) to the vintage Highland Park 25 year ($40 for 1 oz) any level of whiskey drinker can find something here. The drink list is topped off by a selection of creative cocktails ($8-12), about a dozen wines and a variety of beers on tap and in bottles, making it easy to find a drink to pair with your meal.

While a trip to Village Whiskey may run you more than other burger spots in Philly (and NYC for that matter) it is more about the total experience than the burger itself. A combination of solid starters, extensive drink options, stellar service and a sleek space complement the thick burgers, just be forewarned, the wait is long and depending on your schedule and mood it may be wise to stay away during peak times.

What is most interesting to me after my many trips to Philly is the difference in burger tastes between NYC and Philadelphia. While NY used to be about over the top, gut-busting burgers, it seems that there has been a shift to griddled, thin, fast-food style burgers (see Shake Shack, Bill's Bar & Burger, Burger Joint.) Whereas in Philly the trend of extravagant, topping heavy burgers remains. Maybe it isn't something to read into, but there certainly is a difference in the types of burgers diners are craving from city to city.

114 S 20th St, Philadelphia, PA 19103-4451, (215) 665-1088, Reservations - Not Available, Price - Moderate/Expensive ($20-50/person)

photo courtesy Dericious

Epic Meal: Babbo Birthday Dinner

2009-11-16T14:10:00.001-05:00

The always popular, nearly impossible to get into Babbo, Mario Batali's flagship restaurant in the West Village, is a restaurant generally saved for special occasions. Well, I was fortunate enough to have a birthday just a few weeks ago, and my loving girlfriend scored us a table for two at 8:00pm. Impressed enough that she was able to score a prime table at a prime time, I was even more eager to try the food. While I've dined all over the city I had never been to Babbo--now was my chance.

After ordering a glass of Prosseco del Veneto ($13) to start at the bar, we watched as Joe Bastianich held court and walk-ins attempted to get a low percentage table or seat at the bar. Whisked away to our table upstairs, we were seated square in the middle of the room and were served a solid, but oily, chickpea crostini. I'd heard that Babbo was an extremely loud restaurant, but found the ambiance quite comfortable, and enjoyed the White Stripes, Police and other rock tunes filling the air. Looking to really indulge we ordered the pasta tasting menu and topped off by the grilled octopus to start and to go along many pasta courses we ordered a bottle of Carignano del Sulcis Riserva Rocca Rubia Santadi 2005 ($55) which was recommended by our server. The octopus arrived with a spicy Limoncello Vinaigrette and tender cranberry beans. A welcome start to the meal and a decent sized portion.

Then the first of our five pasta courses, Black Tagliatelle with Parsnips and Pancetta. The squid ink pasta was coated in a generous amount of butter, olive oil and cheese while being topped with slivers of parsnips and crispy bits of pancetta. An absolute delicious first pasta bite, but there was more to come. Casunzei, or half-moon shaped ravioli, filled with roasted beets, ricotta and tossed in a generous amount of butter and poppy seeds. The tender pasta was delicious, but I have had more impressive versions of this dish (see Al di La). The next pasta course made the night, Garganelli with Funghi Trifolati, and is something I would eat again and again. This egg based pasta, rolled to resemble a quill, was perfectly al dente and was accompanied by a mixture of porcinis, morrels, garlic, olive oil, parsley and a delicious hard, salty goat cheese.

Our heavier pastas included Domingo's Pyramids with Passato di Pomodoro and Papperdelle Bolognese. The former resembled little bundles filled with tender braised beef and topped with a thick, reduced tomato sauce and plenty of salty Pecorino. A solid dish, but lacking the necessary filling to really stand out. The latter, however, was absolutely delicious. A substantial amount of papperdelle topped with a chunky beef and pork bolognese, it was a fitting end to the savory courses in our tasting menu.

Of course the tasting menu couldn't end there and so began the sweet plates: Dancing Ewe Caciotta Fritters, Chocolate al Diavolo, Tyrolean Carrot and Poppyseed Cake and a Pistachio-Chocolate Semifredo courtesy of the kitchen. The fritters, made with creamy goat cheese were paired perfectly with the honey and thyme and went very well with the Muscato we ordered. The Chocolate al Diavolo was creamy and packed an interesting amount of heat from the chili flakes, but it was merely a solid dish. The carrot cake was accompanied by olive oil and an orange gelato and while good, I wasn't particularly happy with the orange gelato. The final dessert, sent out as a birthday gift from the kitchen, was indulgent and would appeal to any pistachio lover.

After a few bites of the petit fours and a generous stretch, we were headed back down the stairs, into the bustling main floor dining room. An epic meal, which reached nearly 3 hours, I'm quite grateful for the experience (and have my girlfriend to thank) and highly recommend it to anyone looking to splurge a little (the tasting menu is $69.) Was it the best Italian food I've ever had? Not exactly, but there were some ethereal dishes that clearly stood out and will always stick in my memory. Perhaps I'll go sit at the bar to have them again in the future, it's probably the easiest and most affordable way to dine here.
110 Waverly Pl, New York, NY 10011, (212) 777-0303, Reservations - Absolutely, Price - Expensive ($50-150/person)

Momofuku Midtown, Ma Peche, Now Serving Lunch

2009-11-12T11:44:00.003-05:00

Per Midtown Lunch, one of the biggest restaurant openings of the year is happening today. Ma Peche, the Momofuku midtown location at the Chambers Hotel, will serve lunch effective today. Check out the full menu and Eater's on the spot coverage. Important to note, they have a $10 lunch special!

The lunch special details:

daily: 11 am to 3 pm

choice of: bánh mì du maison – three terrine sandwich, daikon, cilantro
bánh mì au poullet – chicken, lemongrass, lettuce, mint
bún du riz – rice noodles, pork ragout, saw leaf herb
gỏi calamare – squid salad, fish sauce, thai basil, greens

with: coke / diet coke / keeper’s springs water

add: momofuku milk bar peanut butter cookie / 1.85

Brooklyn Eats Recap

2009-11-02T18:30:00.008-05:00

Last week, the 12th Annual Brooklyn Eats festival was held at the Brooklyn Navy Yard while the wind and rain swirled around outside. A somewhat difficult venue to get to, once inside there was plenty to keep guests busy. As mentioned in an earlier post, there were dozens of restaurants, bars and other vendors here to provide a well-rounded taste of Brooklyn. From soul food to slow-roasted ribs there was plenty of variety. Unfortunately, living in Brooklyn I was a little underwhelmed by the quality of the food. It didn't seem representative of all the great food available in this food-centric borough. A few top notch restaurants like Buttermilk Channel and Palo Santo were participating, but what about the top spots in Park Slope, Williamsburg, Carrol Gardens and beyond? A number of Mexican and soul food spots provided unnecessary repetition, but when it came to dessert I welcomed the many confections available.

I made my way through the somewhat confusing two floor layout, sampling a good amount of the savory dishes and chatting away with some of the chefs and owners. My clear cut favorite was Buttermilk Channel's Cider-glazed Baby Back Ribs with Housemade pickles. The tender, fall-off-the-bone rib seemed to be a crowd favorite and I personally thought the accompanying bread and butter pickles were delicious. More tasting notes below:

Abigail Cafe and Wine Bar: Mini Meatballs with Roasted Squash and Pomegranate Glaze. The meatballs were good, but nothing spectacular and the squash was too mushy.
Bussaco: Duck Confit and Brussels Sprout 'Bubble and Squeak.' Tasty, tender, but underseasoned. More importantly, new chef, Kevin Adey is preparing his own charcuterie, has lowered prices and plans for future beer dinners.
Fonda: Mollette con Adobo (essentially a rich, braised pork). Quite spicy, with a deep smokey flavor. This dish made me want to check out the restaurant.
Palo Santo: Bluefish Tacos. Delicious tacos, but suffered from the ridiculous amount of oil from the fish and braising liquid, rendering the freshly made tortillas soggy and broken.
Scottadito Osteria Toscana: Proscuitto Sfizi. Unfortunately, this was the worst bite I had all night, so bad I actually spit it out. Impossible to chew with no bite to it whatsoever.
Umi Nom: Stir Fried Rice Noodles. A bit bland and disappointing compared to their Chinese sausage at another event a few months back.
Vue Restaurant & Lounge: Roasted Filet Mignon with Caramelized Onions, Bacon and Everything Crust. The same exact dish at the Metromix Hot Plates, not as good this time due to the temperature.
Waterfont Ale House: Southwest BBQ Turkey Meatloaf Slider with Corn-Black Bean Salsa. This bite looked promising, but was way too smokey. It was cooked with a smokey beer and way too much cumin was used for my taste.

As for the sweet stuff, everything I had was quite good. From the Red Velvet Cupcakes at The Cakeman Raven table, to the trio of sweet small bites from The Sweet Tooth (my favorite was the Red Velvet Cheesecake.) However, one dessert really stood out from all the rest, the "Big Apple" Trio from the New York City College of Technology culinary students. Three aspiring pastry chefs created this dish with the guidance of their professors and it was eye opening. A layer of apple cider pana cotta, pomagranate and apple (cobbler?) with a maple chip and financier to top it all off. The flavors of fall really came through in this dish and technically it was spot on. The event was topped off with a delicious scotch cocktail called the Spicy Pete from Clover Club and an array of beers from Shmaltz Brewing Company, Sixpoint and Brooklyn Brewery.

Thanks to the kind folks at the Brooklyn Chamber of Commerce for putting together this event and having me as their guest. Additional photo recap below.

The King's Carriage House: Be Forewarned

2009-10-29T17:59:00.005-04:00

I don't want to go into some lengthy bashing review of any restaurant, even when I can safely say I just had one of my worst dining experiences in NYC, but I feel the need to vent and hopefully save some future diners from a mistake. I've eaten at a wide range of places, from the corner deli to white linen, fine dining establishments, some meals excellent, others not so much. However, a recent family party (for 13) at the King's Carriage House on the UES left me in complete shock. Worried initially by the dated decor, empty restaurant and menu that seems to have been from 30 years ago I kept my composure and my hopes up. It was a family party anyway, time to celebrate, catch up and enjoy each others company.

Easier said than done unfortunately. From the seemingly out of the freezer hors d'oeuvres to the vinaigrette drenched salad with slimy poached pears, the meal was off to an unfortunate start. Topped off by gruff, clueless servers in an overly cramped room and I was crossing my fingers (as were other diners) that the entree and wine would make up for everything. Too bad for us. Overcooked Filet Mignon, duck breast with un-rendered skin, and pan-seared salmon that was probably the only thing done to a satisfactory state. To our astonishment the server never even asked anyone how they would like their steak prepared. Moreover, the duck, beyond overcooked, was served slimy skin side down on a bed of salty vegetables and cut in half to reveal just how poorly cooked it was. It was a scary example of improper technique and made me think the kitchen was devoid of all culinary knowledge. All topped off by overflowing wine that would have been better served in a dorm room than in a restaurant. Shocking for any restaurant, especially at this price.

We all persevered though, laughing, talking and putting aside the food (literally in my case). Of course the meal was topped off with being rushed out of the private dining area by those stern faced servers, but at the very least I can say I've taken one for the team. How this place has earned 4/5 stars on Yelp (only 5 reviews) and a score of 21, 25, 23 in the 2009 Zagat guide is beyond my comprehension, but it certainly begs the question, how much can you trust Zagat nowadays anyway?
251 E. 82nd Street, New York, NY 10028, 212-734-5490, Reservations - Probably Not Necessary, Price - Moderate/Expensive ($40-70/person)

Bill's Bar & Burger: Deserving of the Hype?

2009-10-27T10:57:00.003-04:00

This year more than any past years has been all about burgers (and pizza and hot dogs). Everyone's favorite meal for lunch, dinner and anything in between. We've seen a $26 burger become all the rage at Minetta Tavern. Shake Shack released plans for world domination and burger mania from Burger Bashes to articles on the art and classification of burgers have filled the food media landscape. With that said, it's no surprise that Bill's Bar & Burger, from Steven Hanson's BR Guest Restaurants, was welcomed onto the scene with open arms. What is surprising is how quickly writers across the city are ready to claim it the best burger around, if not a close second. Of course, with this hype comes the desire to check it out, so last week I dropped in, after much back-and-forth tweeting with the restaurant (@billsnyc by the way). I met Wined & Dined as well as other eager burger fans, while Josh Ozersky just happened to be entertaining the Zagat's over burgers and beers.

The menu focuses on burgers, but you can also get a hot dog or grouper sandwich. Personally, I would find it difficult to order a fish sandwich amongst a sea of griddled meat patties and dogs, but apparently it is pretty good. We were seated in the back room, a very simply decorated space, with checkered tablecloths, flat screen TVs and no lingering stale beer smell from previous tenant, The Hog Pit. Our servers were surprisingly attentive considering how busy the restaurant was, but they were a bit too attentive. It became a bit awkward when we placed our order while two overly eager servers starred us down. Of course they were doing their job, but they can probably ease up just a tad and will likely do so as they get more comfortable.

Moving on, the burgers. We ordered the Sunset & Vine, Classic with cheese, Fries and Veggie Fries. The burgers are all cooked medium-well, a somewhat unfortunate cook temperature, but likely done since the burgers are just so thin it is hard to meet individual requests. As can be seen on Serious Eats, the burger is prepared with the smash technique, the process of taking the loosely packed ball of meat and smashing it against the griddle to really ensure a generous char. The burgers arrived, the Sunset & Vine with cheese, lettuce, tomato and special sauce all on a squishy sesame seed studded bun. The burger hangs over the edge of the bun and at first glance looks a little beat up. It's so thin that the edges are really just crispy bits of ground beef. Diving in, it was good. Great? Not at all. I tried it with the vegetables, then without. With some of the sauce on, with some of it taken off. When it came down to it, I just didn't get much meat flavor no matter what the combination. Was it tasty, absolutely. The saltiness of the beef and American cheese combined with the mayo-bbq sauce based special sauce all worked well, but I was left wanting more meat, particularly something more juicy as the thin patty was rather dry. Same feelings on the Bill's Classic with cheese. While the salt level was a little lower, this burger is the same as above without the special sauce, it was still lacking for me. Don't get me wrong, the burger was tasty and if in the area I would definitely come back, but this is no destination burger in my opinion.

The sides were also a bit frustrating. Simple fries, lightly seasoned were good, but far from great and underseasoned, bland and watery veggie fries. The latter, just a poorly executed version of vegetable tempura that couldn't be saved with ketchup or mustard. In addition, Disco Fries and Onions Rings are also available and may be the better choices. Looking to really go for the trifecta (and accurately make a Shake Shack comparison) we ordered up a Black & White Shake. The shake was quite delicious, served with extra wide straws it is easy to slurp this up quickly so be forewarned. Other offerings include Oreo, Peanut Butter Banana Fluff and a variety of alcohol infused versions.

While there were some major flaws for me with the burger and sides I would say Bill's is a legitimate stop, but not close to overtaking Shake Shack as the best burger in the city. Next time I visit Bill's I'll have to go for the Fat Cat, a gut-bomb of a burger, with two smaller patties, caramelized onions and American cheese all sandwiched between an English muffin (not my bun of choice). Certainly not a simple, understated burger that I generally opt for, but I can't imagine it doesn't taste good.
22 Ninth Ave., at 13th St., 212-414-3003, Reservations - Accepted, Price - Inexpensive/Moderate ($6-20/person)

(photo courtesy of Thrillist)

12th Annual Brooklyn Eats Festival is Tomorrow!

2009-10-26T15:18:00.005-04:00

Looking for something to do tomorrow? Well if you like eating, drinking and Brooklyn head over to the Brooklyn Navy Yard for a chance to sample bites and beverages from a wide variety of Brooklyn establishments. Tickets are not cheap, running for $125 at the door, or $110 purchased prior here. The event begins at 6pm and ends around 8:30pm so scrap those dinner plans you had and join in on the fun. Per the press release participating restaurants, bars and vendors include:

Restaurants:

A Bistro, Abigail Café and Wine Bar, Abigail Kirsch Stage 6 at Steiner Studios, Abu’s Homestyle Bakery, A.O.C. Bistro, Aunt Suzie’s Restaurant, Bussaco, Buttermilk Channel, Café on Clinton, Cake Man Raven, Downtown Atlantic Restaurant, Fonda, Fresh Fanatic, Get Fresh Table and Market, La Stalla, Los Pollitos II, Madiba Restaurant, Magnolia Restaurant & Bar, Maria’s Mexican Bistro, Mazzat, New York City College of Technology’s Hospitality Management, Oaxaca, Palo Santo, Pilar Cuban Eatery, Provence en Boite, Scottadito Osteria Toscana, Soul Spot, Soul Sister Quisine, The Sweet Tooth, Tangs Natural, Trattoria Mangia, Trois Pommes Pâtisserie, Waterfront Ale House

Bars:

Brooklyn Brewery, Brooklyn Roasting Company, Brouwerij Lane, Clover Club, Gotham City Lounge, Hena Coffee, Sixpoint Craft Ales, Southern Wine and Spirits of New York, Michael-Towne Wines and Spirits

Institutions:

Brooklyn Artists Waterfront Coalition, Brooklyn Center for the Performing Arts, Heart of Brooklyn, Museum of Contemporary African Diasporan Arts, Patricia F. Robinson Music Studio, St. Ann’s Warehouse

Note: A portion of the proceeds will go to the Brooklyn Eats Scholarship Fund.

The Vanderbilt is Here to Stay

2009-10-25T20:36:00.006-04:00

Prospect Heights is one of the burgeoning neighborhoods in Brooklyn. With new restaurants, bars and condo developments it is quickly becoming one of the new hot spots in the borough. Well, now with the addition of The Vanderbilt, Prospect Heights should be on everyone's map. The Vanderbilt, named after the street it resides on, Vanderbilt Avenue, is the second project from Michelin-starred chef, Saul Bolton of Saul in Cobble Hill. This huge corner restaurant has filled a spot previously occupied by a hardware store, but now remnants of the previous tenant are nowhere to be found. Officially opened this past Friday, we decided to give it a shot even though we are always weary of a restaurant on it's opening night.

Arriving around 7:30pm, the restaurant was already quite packed. The long, attractive bar sits on the right hand side, while small tables and banquet seating cover the left wall. Beyond the bar area, the open kitchen is revealed to a gorgeous marble bar top, where we ended up dining, and then a back room contains a quieter dining area. Seating somewhere in the neighborhood of 100-120 diners, this is huge by Prospect Heights standards, let alone anywhere in the downtown Brooklyn area. With a 20-30 minute wait on opening night, I can guarantee the neighborhood is excited about this addition.

In terms of food, The Vanderbilt's menu is all about sharing. The small plates range from $4-16 and provide a few bites to slightly smaller than a full portion of food (depending on your appetite). The menu is broken into a number of sections, such as Hors D'oeuvres, Charcuterie, Vegetables, Fish, Meat and Desserts. Based on the menu online and at the restaurant, it looks like things may change seasonally, or they may expand once they are at full capacity in the kitchen. For our meal we ordered 6 dishes, including the Orielles de Christ (Crispy Pig's Ears), Serrano Ham Croquetes, Duck Rilletes, Chicken Liver Pate, Smoked Jagerwurst and Grilled Spanish Octopus.

We were very pleased right off the bat with the food. The crispy pig's ears were like upscale pork rinds and came with a small pipet of pique, a fiery red hot sauce. Only about 5-6 an order, the $4 price tag is not bad for a quick snack. The croquettes ($7) were also delicious with their crispy exterior and creamy, porky interior. At 5 to an order, these little oval shaped bites were lightly covered with a delightful smokey aioli. At this point, with all of our dishes ordered and a few already down, we were quite impressed with the service. Even on opening night, with a crowded doorway and up to an hour wait, everyone kept their composure, a promising sign for the restaurant.

One thing that immediately excited me about the restaurant was the prospect of housemade charcuterie. No place in the area (with the exception of Franny's) does this, and The Vanderbilt quickly made us a fan with theirs. The smooth, rich pate ($8) was paired with pickled onions, a lightly dressed frisee salad and toast points. Not being a big pate fan, my girlfriend was in love with this dish, a great compliment to the restaurant. My favorite dish, however, was the rilletes ($12). Arriving in a jar, the portion is rather large and is accompanied by a deep purple fig jam and more toast. After scooping off the fat, we found ourselves eating the duck straight from the jar, it was just that good. One thing to note, you will need more toast, the 3 pieces we received were about half of what we actually needed. Last in our charcuterie adventure, was the jagerwurst ($10), one of the many sausages prepared in house. With a noticeable smokiness and heavy snap in the casing, this was one good sausage. A bit chewy on the inside, the pairing of German potato salad was perfect for this dish. The potato salad was coated in a grainy mustard and helped make this one of the more substantial dishes on the menu (a good option of you are looking to keep the cost down).

Last up, we ordered one non-meat dish, the octopus ($9). Perhaps an indicator of the strengths of the restaurant, or just a matter of our taste, this was our least favorite dish. The grilled octopus possessed none of the char I look for in grilled octopus and it was served, sliced, atop room temperature cranberry beans. While not an unsuccessful dish, I think it could have been much better. Next time we will look for another fish or vegetable dish to help offset the heavy intake of meat.

Trying to abstain from drinking much, we only had a glass of red ($5-12) and a sweet, refreshing Black Cherry Rickey ($9 for all cocktails). A well-rounded beer menu consists of 7 draft beers, all at $6 a pint, and 13 craft bottled beers from $7-17, including one of my favorites the Stone Ruination Imperial IPA 22oz ($10).

With such a well executed menu, affordable pricing and a simply gorgeous space, The Vanderbilt will definitely find quick success here in Prospect Heights. Considering it was opening night, I'm shocked to say this was one of my better dining experiences I have had in Brooklyn while living here for nearly 5 years. I was so impressed, I may just end up back next week.
570 Vanderbilt Ave, Brooklyn 11238, 718-62309569, Reservations - Not Accepted, Price - Moderate/Expensive ($30-50/person)

(photo courtesy of Metromix)

Meat Haven at Minetta Tavern

2009-10-25T19:02:00.002-04:00

While I am a little behind in posting this review, nothing from my meal at Minetta Tavern has been forgotten. Since day one Minetta has been a hit, as well as a difficult reservation to come by. With Frank Bruni's 3-star review back in May the restaurant became even more popular and more difficult to get into. With a little help from one of my friends I was able to score a prime time reservation for my girlfriend's birthday a few weeks back.

Entering Minetta you feel as if you have immediately been transported to another time, if not only a place far away from the commotion that is Mac Dougal Street and the West Village. Yes, much of the decor remains from the original, but is polished. An attractive interior from the wood details, light fixtures and checkerboard floor. A packed bar provides an opportunity for a drink while waiting, or even a quick bite, while a few tables sit directly across the way. The first room of the restaurant is a crowded spot, so be prepared for a tight squeeze. My recommendation, try to sit in the back room as it is easier on the ears and a bit more spacious. Also note, if you have a reservation be prepared to wait a few minutes before being seated. We had a 7:30pm slot and were not seated till closer to 8pm.

Once seated we scanned the large drink menu, full of cocktails, wines by the glass or bottle, beer, scotch and other beverages. After a subpar cocktail at the bar, it was way too sweet, I opted for a glass of Oban, while my girlfriend chose a glass of red wine. A basket of room temperature Balthazar bread was placed on the table along with a creamy butter while we placed our orders. To start, the Salt Cod Stuffed Squid ($13), followed by the Dry Aged Cote de Boeuf for two ($96, but now $104) and a side of the Pomme Anna ($9). The squid arrived with piquillo peppers, olives and preserved lemon and made for a very satisfying starter. Tender and filled with a properly salty, creamy salt cod, we were both very pleased and loved the pairing with the preserved lemon. While we were enjoying the squid a server actually brought by our steak before it was cooked, a nice elegant touch.

After a second round of drinks were ordered the pièce de résistance arrived, a gorgeous platter of meat: 32 ounces of dry-aged ribeye and 3 hefty marrow bones. The steak had a wonderful char, but not as intense as one may find at Peter Luger's. Already sliced off the bone, there was a generous amount of fat running through the medium-rare steak, a bit too much for our taste as it meant less meat, but it was probably for the best. With the initial bite we both looked at each other in awe, our brows raised and mouths forming a faint smile. This was, and may be, the best steak we have ever tasted. Hard to directly compare to a steakhouse steak, it was tender, juicy and melted like butter in our mouths, but the char was perfect. With the addition of the pool of juices on the bottom of the plate and a spread of bone marrow across each bite, this dish IS a meat lovers heaven. Complimented by the ridiculously indulgent Pommes Anna this was pure delight. The potato side easily rose to my favorite side dish for steak, thinly sliced potatoes arranged in a cast iron skillet and baked, the crispy top revealed a luscious, buttery center. This dish didn't reach greatness from the potatoes, but rather all the butter used to prepare it.

After a rich, salty steak and potatoes we opted for the somewhat light Grand Marnier Souffle for two ($16). Choosing this over the chocolate souffle may have been a mistake, but it offered a slightly lighter alternative. The airy, puffed top gave way once our spoons hit it to a creamy center and was sweet with a strong essence of orange from the liqueur. It was definitely very good, but next time we go chocolate. To go with the souffle we ordered a glass of port and muscato respectively, both a fitting, sweet pairing to the meal.

The atmosphere, service and food all lived up to, and even exceeded, the hype in some cases. While a pricey endeavor, this was for a special occasion and it is definitely easy to cut some dollars off the bill if you watch your drinking. It sure is one of the hottest tables of the year, perhaps more for the hype and potential celebrity element, when actually it should be all about the food. I look forward to my next visit to Minetta where I'll surely be looking to order the burger (but will be tempted by the steak again).
9 Minetta St, New York, NY 10012, (212) 475-3850, Reservations - Absolutely Needed, Price - Expensive ($50-100/person)

(photo courtesy of MinettaTavern.com)

Little Limp at Veloce Pizzeria

2009-10-25T12:04:00.000-04:00

Eager to try one of the many new pizzerias that sprouted up across the city in 2009 I ventured to Veloce Pizzeria, very much enjoyed by former NY Times critic Frank Bruni. With Sarah Jenkins, of Porchetta fame behind the menu I was excited to check it out. I had heard mixed reviews from friends and blogs, but overall Veloce was recommended. Known for their "personal" square pizzas with a crust somewhere between Sicilian and grandma style, each pie is about 12 inches. Depending on how hungry you are one pie can be split between two people or you can go all out and eat a whole one by yourself.

There are somewhere in the neighborhood of a dozen pizzas available and occasional specials, like the clam pie Bruni loved, are written on a chalkboard. In addition, a variety of salads and appetizers are available, ranging from a simple arugula salad to crispy fried calamari. We opted to start with the calamari, which was paired with a light arugula salad and lemon wedges. The calamari was lightly fried and paired well with the peppery greens and lemon juice. The lemon juice really brightened up the dish and brought it all together, making us forget that there was no official sauce available.

As for the pizza we chose the porchetta sausage topped pie, knowing that Chef Jenkins has a way with pork. The pizza arrived in the baking dish, cut into 4 generous slices. Taking advice from Adam Kuban on Slice, we took note to eat our pizza shortly after it arrived at our table as the crust quickly goes limp. Well, Adam was right, once we made it to our second slice it was easy to see the difference in consistency. Initially I enjoyed the crust, it was firm enough to provide a nice crunch without seeming overcooked. The topping was quite good, but seemed to be lacking something, salt perhaps? The rosemary and garlic were quite evident in the sausage. Once you get to the second slice there is a noticeable difference in the crust so be advised.

As for wine, you can order carafes beginning at $16 or bottles which go to $75 a bottle. Our carafe, while not remarkably tasty, was a steal at $16 for roughly 4 glasses.

Overall not the best of the new wave of pizzerias in the city, but certainly not the worst. Veloce Pizzeria suffers from the transition the pizza goes through once it is removed from the oven, but it is a worth a trip if you are looking for a non-Neapolitan pizza experience. Would I go back? Perhaps, but it is not a destination spot by any means.
103 1 Ave, New York, NY 10003-2951, (212) 777-6677, Reservations - Available, Not Needed, Prize - Moderate ($20-40/person)

Quick Bite: Chiles Rellenos Torta from Chavellas

2009-10-15T12:00:00.002-04:00

Park Slope and Prospect Heights have been lacking quality Mexican restaurants, dominated by mostly bland, overly Americanized fare. However, Chavellas has become a neighborhood favorite, with their approachable, mostly authentic offerings, made with fresh, flavorful ingredients. Located on the outskirts of Prospect Heights, it doesn't get too much foot traffic, but they are open for lunch, dinner, brunch and deliver.

Stopping by a few weeks back for lunch I opted for a Chiles Relleno Torta ($7), thinking how could a pan-fried, cheese-stuffed chile sandwich not be good? Well I was right, this torta was not lacking flavor by any means. The slightly toasted soft roll had a smear of black bean spread and was topped with lettuce, tomato, a light tomato puree and of course the chiles rellenos. As you can see in the picture it is pre-sliced, making for a nice cross section shot, but allowing the cheese to ooze out onto the plate. It may be a vegetarian sandwich, but by no means is this a light endeavor. A filling lunch or hangover pleaser is more like it.

732 Classon Avenue, Brooklyn, NY, 718-622-3100, Price - Inexpensive ($6-10/person for lunch)

NYCWFF: Meatball Madness

2009-10-12T20:28:00.004-04:00

Of course if consuming 12 burgers at Burger Bash on Friday wasn't enough for my body I pushed the limits even further and ventured into Meatball Madness last night. The new event, hosted by Giada De Laurentiis, attracted some of the most talented chefs in the city while the meat was provided by the meat masters at LaFrieda. In the same space as Sweet, the venue was well spread out allowing attendees to bounce back and forth with ease between the varieties of meatballs available.

You had fish, duck, turkey, beef, pork and lamb all rolled into thousands of the comfort food treat. From raw meatballs (yes raw) to meatball topped pizzas, this was easily a meatball lovers dream. That said, there are only so many meatballs one person can eat and although I wanted to taste them all I only made it through about a dozen or so (that was about half of what was available). Sharing the meatballs and only taking one bite was the only way I made it through even this many, but I definitely tasted enough to name my favorites. See below for a recap, with the restaurants listed alphabetically.

Abe & Arthur's - The pork meatball was well seasoned, but the spaetzle was way too gummy.
Butter - I initially loved the Pork & Beef Meatball topped pizza, but found it quite difficult to eat. The cheesiness was a welcome first bite though.
Convivio - Another well seasoned meatball it was accompanied by many components, including ricotta salata and olives making for a very salty bite. That won't sway me from heading to the restaurant though!
Felidia - One of the more interesting offerings, this was a meatball tartare served with crispy spaghetti.
The Harrison - A delicious, simple meatball. I could have eaten many of these (not pictured).
Hearth - A delicious veal and ricotta meatball that was lightly packed and one of my top bites of the night.
Little Owl - Always delicious, the always popular meatball slider was a fan favorite.
Locanda Verde - This lamb meatball slider was delicious, although I didn't like the cucumber slices which topped it. Regardless, it was the judges award winner and Andrew Carmilini walked away with a nice $5,000.
Josh Ozersky and Mike Cirino - With a great crunchy exterior and very juicy interior, I enjoyed this meatball, but wasn't crazy about the accompanying fonduta.
Perilla - Harold served up his well-known duck meatballs, one of my favorite dishes of the evening.
Salumeria Rosi - Somewhat dense, these meatballs were served on a bed of creamy polenta, but what I loved most from this table was the freshly sliced charcuterie.
SD 26 - An interesting take on a meatball slider, it was a mix of beef and eggplant, breaded, fried then topped with a peperonata, the bun however was too dense for my taste.

Overall a fun event, but there was only so much meatball talk and consumption I could take. After about an hour and change we left, finding out the winner later via tweetin foodies. And now I begin the meatless diet, if only for a few days to let my body full recover. For a photo recap see below.

NYCWFF: Grand Tasting Galore

2009-10-12T10:31:00.005-04:00

The Grand Tastings are always a fun, accessible component of the food & wine festivals. Chefs from around New York City gathered on Pier 54 to serve small bites alongside wine and spirit brands with 2 sessions on Saturday (and another group on Sunday). Even at noon the tent was packed and chefs were quickly running short on food. In speaking with Patrick Connolly of Bobo he mentioned that he was told to prepare around 600 bites for each session, but he was almost through 1000 bites by 1:30pm.

Overall the food was good, with a few clear standouts, but also some major misses. My favorite included Bar Breton's Layered Crepes, a refreshing and light bite amidst a sea of heavier dishes. As well as Bar Blanc Bistro's Braised Pork with Fennel and Candied Pistachios, a wonderful combination of textures. A fried bite of feta from Pera was also quite tasty, but unfortunately all of the greens accompanying the dish flew off my plate in the wind. A somewhat less approachable, but delicious bite came from llili, where they fried up some lamb brains a la minute. As far as the less than stellar bites, it is really hard to judge a restaurant solely on a single bite mass produced for an event like this, but a few dishes really were not enjoyable. Asia de Cuba's little riblet was tough and somewhat cold, restaurant llili was serving 4 cuts of lamb and while I love cheek this one was just doused in an overly sweet cherry sauce, and Klee Brasserie's fried chicken was soggy and paired with an awkward lingonberry sauce. All things considered a successful tasting, surpassing last year's in terms of size and quality.

For a full photo recap see below!

NYCWFF: Sunday Update

2009-10-11T18:01:00.003-04:00

Phew what a day. Finishing with a stop at Down South, Up North, the 212 industry party and drinking into the wee hours with the Next Iron Chef competitiors, I took it pretty easy today. This evening wraps with Meatball Madness and a few weekend finale parties. So far, great festival again, with an even more robust offering than last year.