Garden Exposure

Making Short Work of Slugs and Snails

2007-07-03T09:58:00.000Z

Slugs and snails are the bane of many gardeners' lives, ripping at slow speed through a garden, destroying young plants under the cover of darkness. It's not unusual to find a whole row of seedlings fatally damaged in one sitting, and even a single snail can cause devastation. Bearing this in mind, it's pretty obvious that many gardeners develop a distinct antipathy towards our mollusc friends and will try almost anything to rid their gardens of the invertebrate menace.

The traditional answer to the snail and slug problem was to use pellets, which contained toxins which would kill the creatures after they consume them. For many reasons, this is less than a perfect solution, as the pellets can also be very dangerous for wildlife, pets, and even children. Not only can the pellets themselves cause poisoning, the slugs and snails become poisonous to birds before expiring, which is bad news for any of our feathered friends which decide to snack on a slug.

Organic slug pellets have recently become available which do not suffer from this toxin problem, but the jury is still out on how effective they are, and they are still a chemical treatment which many people would choose to avoid in these environmentally conscious times.

The most eco-friendly way of fighting back against slugs is to provide an environment which is hostile to them, while being attractive to their natural predators such as birds, hedgehogs, and toads. Attract these animals to your garden and they will do a fine job of gorging themselves on the local snail population, and so reducing the severity of measures you need to take yourself. Also, slugs and snails like to spend the day in cool, damp, dark conditions such as those found in messy flowerbeds and uncut grass. Remove these refuges by keeping your garden as tidy as you can, and there's less chance of a slug evading a predator.

However much you try and discourage your local molluscs from living in your garden, the lure of tasty young seedlings is certain to be stronger. You can protect individual plants by placing some sort of barrier around them. Popular substances include sharp grit or broken egg shells, which slugs and snails are reluctant to slide over, or a smear of vaseline around the top of a plant pot which works in much the same way. You can also buy copper rings or bands, or even tape, which work by giving a small electric shock to any snail which tries to cross it - a most effective deterrent!

Slug traps are available which you half bury in the ground, and fill with a tempting liquid such as beer. The idea is that as the slugs crawl towards it, they fall in and drown (or die of alcoholic poisoning, possibly). The drawback is that these traps are a waste of good beer, and cleaning them out every morning is not a pleasant task if the catch has been good!

For severe slug problems, you could always resort to bacteriological warfare. A kind of slug parasite called nematodes is available, which you add to water and spray onto the infected areas. These parasites will kill any slug they can find, continuously and for a period of up to 6 weeks, but it's an expensive option and doesn't do anything against snails.

A much cheaper option, although it may gain you something of a reputation in the neighborhood, is a midnight slug hunt. After dark, when the slugs are at their most destructively active, patrol your garden armed with a torch, a bucket, and a means of slug dispatch. This technique is especially effective during rain, although probably not an exercise you'd care to repeat too often!

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

Andrea writes on gardening, food and ecological issues, a

Great Tools for Great Gardening

2007-06-23T12:13:00.000Z

It's no wonder so many people love gardening. It allows one to spend time in perfect tranquility, tending the earth and enjoying the stillness and serenity of nature. Gardening gives you a good reason to get dirty, and feel the warm earth between your fingers and toes. You are able to enjoy a sense of accomplishment when you garden, as you carefully plant and attentively pamper your crops. Best of all, gardening produces tangible, colorful, and delicious results for all of your hard work.

In any situation, the proper tools can make the work more pleasant. Experienced gardeners have their favorite tools. Some remain faithful to traditional tools, while some opt for more modern power tools. Whatever your preference, it is challenging to garden with no tools at all. When choosing gardening tools, it is important to consider the size of your garden, the type of tools you will most enjoy working with, as well as your physical ability. Traditional tools require a little more elbow grease. The cost of the tools, as well as the time you have to devote to your hobby, as also important considerations in your decision making process.

In springtime, even before planting begins, it is necessary to prepare the soil. The soil should be turned and irrigated, and, if desired, some organic fertilizer added at this stage. Many gardeners choose to use tillers and other equipment to help them with this pre-planting preparation. Having the right tools always makes the job easier. There is such a wide variety of cultivating tools available that you will have no trouble choosing the tools most suited for you gardening needs.

Hand tools are the typical choice of traditional gardeners. These include shovels, pitchforks, spades, rakes and trowels. All of these hand-held gardening tools will aid the gardener in preparing the plot for planting. Although they do call for some elbow grease, these tools are relatively easy to use. Other common hand tools are the pickax, mattock, and wheel cultivator.

Depending on the size of your garden, and the amount of physical labor you wish to commit to, you may wish to use power tools in your garden. Yes, they are somewhat more expensive, however, they get the job done with more ease. If you have a larger garden, a tiller will be very useful in preparing your soil. It is also helpful for people with mobility issues. A tiller is useful for breaking up the ground, to help mix compost and fertilizer into the earth, and to chop up any debris lying around. A tiller can be quite expensive, so they can also be rented at most tool supply stores. You may also choose to share with or borrow from a neighbor. Chippers, chainsaws, and shredders are additional power tools that are useful in the garden.

Pruning tools are handy to have if you have hedges, shrubs, and small trees on your property. Pruning shears are fine to use for branches about 3/4 inches in diameter, while lopping shears can handle branches from a half inch up to about 2 inches. Taller trees and shrubs require pole pruners, which allow the gardener to extend their reach to branches as high as 15 feet from the ground. Heavy-duty hedge shears and pruning saws are also handy gardening tools to have on hand.

Your garden will not survive without water. When nature doesn't take of your garden's water needs, it is a good idea to have watering equipment on hand. A garden hose with a good quality spray nozzle, or a sprinkler is very useful for those with a bigger garden or a grassy lawn. A basic watering can will be enough for a container garden made up of pots and planters. More advanced gardens may have irrigation systems with timers. These provide more accurate watering. Some gardeners may choose to use drip hoses for more even watering.

Remember that the tools you choose should make your gardening experience more pleasant and rewarding. If you want to get on your hands and knees and dig and the dirt, do it. You may simply desire a pair of gardening gloves to protect your hands from cuts and calluses. If you want quick results with a minimum of fuss, consider which tools will best suit your needs. In any case, you will thoroughly enjoy the fruits of your labors. Your lush, beautiful garden will be a haven to return home to every day. Enjoy!

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

Leilani Rolphe is a writer for a variety of Internet sites, on lawn gardens and lawn and garden equipment themes.

Add Interest To Your Water Garden With Floating Plants

2007-06-14T17:57:00.000Z

A water garden can be a relaxing element to add to any landscape but it can be rather boring unless you add aquatic plants. They are actually different kinds of plants you can add to your water garden, some like to populate the edges of the garden, some grow in the deep waters and others float right on top of the water.

These floating aquatic plants float on the surface and have long groups that go down into the water. These plants often have an exotic look and can provide shade to control algae as well as provide a nice habitat for fish and other pond creatures.

While most floating water garden plants are tropical there are a few that you can use in northern climates. if you have a harsh winter, you will want to treat your floating plants much the same as you treat your annuals and plan on replanting them each year.

Three of the more popular floating plants are discussed below and include Parrots Feather, Water Lettuce, and Floating Hyacinth.
Parrots Feather

This floating plant is rather easy to care for and has feathery foliage that is a blue green in color. parrot feather has stems that can grow up to 60 inches long and can provide a great spawning area for your pond fish. It is good in zones 4to 11 and can survive the winter is beneath the ice but may incur frost damage at the top of the pond.

Water Lettuce

This plant, as the name implies, resembles a big head of lettuce floating on top your pond. The foliage has a velvety look and can grow up to 10 Inches wide and may sometimes even produce white flowers and green berries although the flowers and berries are pretty hard to notice. This can be an invasive plant so you want to be careful that it doesn't take over your water garden. Water letters prefers warmer climates and can work in zones 9-11. Be very careful of frost, as this can damage leaves and cause them to rot and you don't want that in your pond!
Floating Hyacinth

Floating hyacinth reduces purple flowers on 6 inch stems and can be a colorful addition to the floating plants in your water garden. In order for proper flowering you'll need to make sure it has full sun and warmth and also that your water is providing the nutrients that this plant needs. If it is In good health, it can reproduce quite rapidly and you have to make sure that it doesn't take over your water garden. Good for zones 9 to 11, Floating Hyacinth and will also help to clarify your water.

Adding floating plants to your water garden will not only help but look better but it can also help the water quality be healthier and may reduce your maintenance. This is because the plants consume the same nutrients from the water that algae needs to grow. Therefore, water garden plants can help keep algae growth in check, thus increasing your water quality and reducing your water garden maintenance.

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

Lee Dobbins writes for watergardens.garden-g8way.com where you can learn more about choosing, installing and maintaining water gardens.

Mini Greenhouses - What Are The Benefits

2007-06-06T08:35:00.000Z

Mini greenhouses are extremely beneficial for a multitude of reasons and if you are attempting to make a decision as to what kind of greenhouse to get there will be many pieces of information you will want to discover so you can make the right decisions.

You need to consider the amount of space you will require for your mini greenhouses before anything else. If you have decided to grow a large quantity of varietal plants then of course you will need a larger greenhouse but if you just wish to have a few plants than probably a small mini greenhouse will do. Be prepared as you want to grow more than your think and you wouldn't want to be stuck with less space than your will need.

A Little More Information About Mini Greenhouses

Mini Greenhouses have a many advantages and no doubt the top one is the fact that they are so light to transfer around your home. If you need to change locations, jut pick it up and move it, doesn't get much simpler than that.

Also, mini greenhouses can be considered the thing to do in todays environment that will show you care about ecology and cetainly your and your families health and well being. When you do decide to choose mini greenhouses please take a step back, gather all your information, look at the different varieties and really think about what you want. Make sure you are going to get what is right for you.

The ideal way to gather information is to take a trip down the information highway; the internet is just loaded with probably everything you will need to get started. You can begin with the information you have researched before you make any further decisions as mini greenhouses come in such a wide variety of shaped and sizes due to their small size. It's a great item as you can fit them into just about any open space in your home.

As a reminder, do not rush when making your choices with a mini greenhouses, be sure to pick the right sizes for the spaces you havbe available. Picking somehting too large is usually the biggest mistake people make with their first purchase.

Involving your family or friends can be a good idea as they will give you different input to locations and size that may be of benefit to you. Just remember to have fun and enjoy your new hobby.

Mini greenhouses can be very rewarding when you reap the benefits. Gather more information by visiting Types of Geenhouses.com Learn more and see what is available when it comes to locating a window greenhouse. Types of Geenhouses.com will help you along the way.

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

Mini greenhouses can be very rewarding when you reap the benefits. Gather more information by visiting Types of Geenhouses.com Learn more and see what is available when it comes to locating a window greenhouse. Types of Geenhouses.com will help you along the way.

Save Money And Start Your Garden On A Budget

2007-05-31T13:12:00.000Z

Starting a garden of your own can be a very rewarding experience. Working the soil not only will benefit your health it can also save you a lot of money over time. Even during the height of the growing season buying all of those great tasting vegetables can cost you a lot of money. Even though you are going to save some money by growing your vegetables yourself you still will have to make an investment in your future garden to reap the benefits later in the year.

It is possible to start your garden on a budget. You do not have to have all of the new garden tools. Your ancestors made do with little more than a hoe and a horse and plow. There are a few things you need to think about if you want to grow a garden on a budget such as thinking ahead and getting your thoughts sorted before you start planting. Start a compost pile now so when you start your garden you will have some cheap fertilizer ready to nourish your plants. Starting seeds instead of buying plants can save you a lot of money. You can stretch your garden budget by choosing vegetables that will yield an abundant crop. This article will look at some ways to help you spend less on your garden.

Start out by thinking about your garden before it is time to start planting. It is all too easy to start planting and the next thing you know you have several things planted you did not intend to grow. Decide what types of vegetables you want to have in your garden and stick to your plan.

Starting a compost pile can save you a lot of money. Chemicals and fertilizers can be costly and many people do not like to put them on the garden preferring organic methods instead. Starting a compost pile will help recycle items from your kitchen into rich organic fertilizer. Your plants should respond to the compost you add with lush green growth.

Starting your vegetables from seed is one of the best ways to save as plants from a nursery cost a lot more than a package of seeds. Another benefit of starting from seed is you can buy more varieties of vegetables than you can usually find locally.

One last thing you can do to stretch your garden budget is to choose plants that yield abundant crops. Check around and see which types of plants yield the most.

Starting a garden on a budget can be done without a whole lot of trouble as long as you do the proper planning and do not get carried away when you start planting.

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

For more information on growing an organic garden of your own try visiting www.onegardens.com/ where you will find tips, advice and resources about topics such as how to grow an organic garden.

Perennial Flower Diseases

2007-05-29T10:41:00.000Z

One of the attractions of perennial flowers is their ability to tolerate a wide range of problems, usually without serious or lasting damage.
There are a few diseases to watch for that can make perennials unsightly, or cause more serious damage.

Powdery mildew, like many diseases, is aptly named as it resembles a powdery white mildew on leaf surfaces. Unlike many diseases, this one
doesn’t need leaves to be wet in order to spread and become a problem.

It is commonly found on some tall garden phlox (/Phlox paniculata/) and lungworts (/Pulmonaria/). There are fungicides, both synthetic and organic, for powdery mildew. Good air circulation from proper spacing may help as well.

Keep in mind that cultivars (cultivated varieties) often have differing resistance to diseases such as this one. ‘David’ is a white phlox mostly resistant, while ‘Mt. Fuji’ is a white phlox very susceptible. Another interesting point about this disease is that it is not the same powdery
mildew strain that gets on lilacs and annual flowers such as zinnias. If you have this disease on these plants, however, conditions are likely ripe for it on perennials.

Downy mildew is quite a different disease, and is rather difficult to control. This appears as gray downy growth on undersides of leaves under cool and humid conditions. Perennials
susceptible to this include tickseed (/Coreopsis/), black-eyed Susan (/Rudbeckia/), speedwell (/Veronica/), asters (/Aster/), bluets (/Centaurea/), dead nettle (/Lamium/), and roses. There are fungicides you can use to prevent this from spreading as it is beginning. Keep in mind that fungicides are preventative—they prevent more disease but usually don’t get rid of that already present. Avoid watering plants with this disease in early morning, and discard severely infected plants.

Rust diseases cause rust-colored spots on leaf surfaces, particularly undersides of leaves. Most commonly it is seen on hollyhocks, but it can occur on many others such as asters and hibiscus. The latest perennial to show a new rust strain to our country, only still in a few areas, is the speedwell. Daylily rust on this popular perennial has become quite prevalent in the last few years in over half the states. It was first introduced into our country in the southeastern states in 2000. Watch for this on purchased plants, especially from southern sources, removing
infested leaves. There are several fungicides that can be used, but check first for resistant cultivars.

If you have hostas, beware of the relatively new Hosta Virus X. Often symptoms resemble natural leaf variegation making diagnosis difficult. Most distinctive is an irregular color feathering along leaf veins. A hosta nursery specialist, or Extension diagnostician, can help identify infected plants. ‘Gold Standard’, ‘Striptease’, and ‘Sum and Substance’ cultivars are often infected. ‘Blue Angel’, ‘Frances Williams’, ‘Bressingham Blue’, ‘Love Pat’, ‘Great Expectations’, and ‘Sagae’ are some of the cultivars immune or resistant.

Remember, if using any pesticides, follow all label directions. Make sure you know what you are treating, as fungicides for instance only work on fungi and not bacteria or virus.

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

Checked out Perry’s Perennial Pages lately? www.uvm.edu/~pass/perry

Summer Tips For The Vegetable Garden

2007-05-22T16:32:00.001Z

Mulching, pest control, and proper harvest are some of the tips for this season’s vegetable garden.

There's evidence that fruiting of tomatoes and peppers is improved by applying Epsom salts, which contains sulfur and magnesium. Apply one tablespoon of granules around each transplant, or spray a solution of one tablespoon Epsom salts per gallon of water at transplanting, first flowering, and fruit set. You can find it at drug and grocery stores.

Reduce the weeds in walkways in your garden by covering the soil with some type of mulch. Some people like to use carpet scraps placed upside-down. Several sheets of moistened newspaper topped with hay or straw works very well, especially if you move your planting areas around a bit from year to year. Landscape fabric topped with wood chips or gravel is a good choice if the walkways are permanent. Try to avoid the habit of tilling to remove weeds because the process brings up weed seeds from deeper in the soil and exposes
them to the light they need to grow.

Indeterminate tomato plants, such as 'Better Boy', will produce many suckers. A sucker is a new shoot that starts where a branch connects with the main trunk. Removing suckers will decrease the number of fruits produced, but the remaining tomatoes will be larger and will ripen sooner.

Set your tomato supports in place before plants get too large. Smaller determinate (bushy) varieties can be supported with small cages, but larger indeterminate (vining) varieties need large cages or tall stakes. Secure cages with stakes so they don't topple.

Blossom end rot shows up as dark sunken spots on the blossom, or non-stem, end of tomatoes, peppers, and squash. It's caused by a calcium imbalance in the plant. The soil may have adequate calcium, but the plant isn't able to take up enough to supply the rapidly developing fruit. To minimize the problem, keep soil evenly moist, apply a layer of mulch to conserve moisture, don't over-fertilize (especially avoid high-nitrogen fertilizer), and avoid damaging plant roots while cultivating.

Coffee grounds, diatomaceous earth, and even sharp gravel can deter slugs and snails. Spread any of these materials in a ring around individual plants. Wrap
pots with copper tape to keep slugs from crawling up. Inspect foliage and squish or pick off any insects that have already passed the barriers.

Young cucumber, melon, and squash plants are easy prey for cucumber beetles. As the seedlings grow, these yellow-striped or spotted beetles emerge to feed on their foliage. The beetles also spread bacterial wilt disease. To control them in a small planting, suck them up with a portable vacuum cleaner or spray beneficial nematodes on the soil.

It's not too late to sow lettuce, beets, carrots, radishes, and other short-season crops for a late-summer harvest. Shade lettuce, if possible, during late afternoon to keep young plants cooler, or grow them next to larger plants that provide some shade. You'll need to water more often on these hot days than you did in spring and early summer. Mulch between rows to preserve moisture and block weed growth.

Harvest tomatoes, zucchini, beans, and other fruiting crops frequently to encourage continued production. Remove any fruits that have gone by unless you're in competition for the biggest zucchini! You don't want the plant to produce mature seeds because that will signal that it's time to slow down fruit production.

Herbs are best harvested just as they are beginning to flower. That's when they have the highest concentration of essential oils -- and flavor -- in their leaves. Harvest entire branches back to within a few inches of the main stem to encourage new, bushy growth.

Begin harvesting onions when about half to three quarters of the leaves have died back. Then gently dig or pull the onions and store them in a dry, shady place with good ventilation, such as an outdoor shed or barn, for 10 days to two weeks. After the onions have cured, put them in slatted crates or mesh bags and store them over winter indoors in a cellar with low humidity and temperatures between 33 and 45 degrees F.

When the daytime temperatures no longer rise above 65 degrees F in late summer and early fall, it's time to pick the green tomatoes. Wrap them individually in newspaper and let them ripen indoors, or try some fried.

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

Checked out Perry’s Perennial Pages lately? www.uvm.edu/~pass/perry

Moving Bulbs and other June Gardening Tips

2007-05-19T22:18:00.000Z

Moving spring-flowering bulbs, fertilizing vegetable plants, and pruning lilacs are some of the gardening tips for this month.

If you want to move some spring-blooming bulbs to another spot, wait until the foliage has turned yellow, then carefully dig them up and let them dry in a shady spot for a few days. Store the bulbs in a cool, dry place for the summer until it's time to plant them in fall.

Make a note of gaps in your spring bulb garden, and plan to plant bulbs there this fall. By choosing a variety of bulbs, from early-blooming snowdrops to late-blooming alliums, you can have a colorful show for months. Note the bloom times in plant descriptions. For example,
Kaufmanniana tulips bloom early, while single, late tulips wrap up the spring show.

Cut back shrubby perennials, such as catmint and dianthus and veronica, when they finish blooming. This will tidy them up and encourage them to produce a second flush of flowers. If your clematis blooms only in spring, once it's finished blooming you can prune damaged and wayward stems, and cut back stems if you need to control the size of the vine. Leave the decorative seed heads.

Tomatoes, squash, and cucumbers can use some nutrients now, so scratch some granular fertilizer into the soil around plants or in a shallow trench alongside a row. Do this when the soil is already moist, and then water it in.

There's evidence that fruiting of tomatoes and peppers is improved by applying Epsom salts, which contains sulfur and magnesium. Apply one tablespoon of granules around each transplant, or spray a solution of one tablespoon Epsom salts per gallon of water at transplanting, first flowering, and fruit set. You can find it at drug and grocery stores.

After lilacs finish flowering, prune off the old blossoms to increase the number of flowers next year. Do this soon because the plants will begin setting buds for next year's flowers. To reduce the height of the shrub, prune the old stems to the ground and allow new shoots to grow.
Prune all at once, or gradually remove one-third of the old stems over a three-year period.

Check apple, cherry, and other fruit trees for nests of tent caterpillars. Blast low-lying nests with water to destroy them, or knock them to the ground and destroy them. A spray of /Bt/ will kill emerging caterpillars but is not toxic to beneficial insects, birds, or humans.

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

Leonard P. Perry, Extension Professor, Univ. of Vermont. Checked out Perry’s Perennial Pages lately? www.uvm.edu/~pass/perry

Everyone Needs Extra Storage So Build A Shed

2007-05-09T17:43:00.000Z

For homeowners and business purposes, vinyl, wood or steel sided outdoor storage sheds are ideal solutions.

When looking for a shed, there are different factors to choose from, shape, style, design, quality and price. The material used for siding is another important element. The material used for siding is another important element. Vinyl siding, wood siding and steel siding are popular. The types of siding that are long lasting are vinyl, cedar and metal types of siding and are available. Vinyl siding is inexpensive and durable. For wood sheds it is a good idea to use vinyl siding instead of wood siding, by using the vinyl the shed will last and be protected against the elements. For a low maintenance siding vinyl is a great choice and comes in many styles and color, and every once in a while you will need to maintain it by cleaning it and it will always look new.

When looking at woods for the shed try to find them with natural resin this will make it so it doesn't rot. Cedar wood is very popular for making sidings, though it also requires maintenance. Wood is a natural material and so a wood shed does not look out of place in a garden like a plastic or a metal shed would. If you want your shed to look like an old fashioned house try to find the siding with the right type of color and wood to give it the proper look.

Wood is a natural material and so a wood shed does not look out of place in a garden like a plastic or a metal shed would. Wood can also be easily painted in chosen colors. Typically any piece of firewood over 8 inches in diameter should be split. Over 50% of the weight in fresh cut wood is moisture.

No matter what type you decide on, when your shed is built you will wonder what you ever did without it. The building must conform to all fire codes and be equipped with fire alarms and sprinkler systems. If you need to build a storage unit outside your house, you can find them prefabricated, pre-built, or in kits with detailed instructions if you look. Things to check on prior to building include zoning codes, drainage of your land, and how well your chosen building will blend in your landscaping.

Building outdoor sheds come in kits today and they are easy to build, you will be able to store toys, lawn equipment, snow stuff and much more. This is a significant problem for people who rent or need to relocate on a regular basis. Storage sheds are buildings that are usually in the back of your house and these sheds normally hold lawn mowers, bikes, tools and other large items.

Using storage sheds to keep your personal belongings safe is easy by placing a padlock on the door. Many more people today need storage and everyone is turning towards outdoor sheds to keep their belongings. Today you don't have to get a shed that is anchored to the ground you can get a shed that is portable. Today so many people have so much that they need extra storage to keep their belonging safe and dry from the weather. Storage sheds are available in a variety of designs and materials in the market.

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

David Marc Fishman sells merchandise inexpensively using auction. Price drop as people shop when buying sheds at the bid auction site at Priceriot.

Are You Considering Building A Deck?

2007-05-07T20:41:00.000Z

Decks are one of the most beautiful additions to any home. They add beauty, value, and a serene home getaway that is unbeatable. Imagine yourself sunbathing on your deck with the rays of summer sunshine dancing on your lawn chair. Imagine having a get together with friends, the barbecue grill smoking away spreading its luscious smells to all of your guests and admiring neighbors. Imagine an evening of star gazing with your kids on the solid surface of your deck. Before you imagine too much, though, think about the disastrous consequences of a poorly built outdoor structure. The media is full of stories about decks crashing in on homeowners leaving permanent disability in its wake. If you are ready to build the right outside deck for your structure, there are ten things you should consider first.

The first thing to think about is the purpose of your deck. Will it be used for entertaining guests on a regular basis? If so, have you considered how many guests you want the deck to hold? That should be one of your primary considerations. More guests will equal more weight. It will also mean you might need extra space for lawn furniture, grills, and people. You also might want the deck to be a play area for you small children. If so, that means a whole host of other issues throughout the planning process. Whatever your deck's intended purpose, it is best to think it all the way through before starting on the process.

The next thing you should consider is your deck's location. If you have landscaping issues where you think you will be placing your deck, which is one more thing you are going to have to deal with in the building process. You may also need to consider tree removal, as well as entrances and exits to your home. Remember, you have to have a way to actually access your deck, and if you want it in a place where you do not have an exit, you may need to add one to get the deck in your desired location.

The third thing you need to consider is your deck plan. This will serve as a guide to the entire project. It does not require a professional hand; it just requires someone who can be thorough enough to cover all of the aspects involved.

Another thing you must consider is how your deck will attach to your home. There are many different ways this can be done. It can be freestanding, but that is not always practical or safe. If it is to attach to the house, you have to decide how you will cut away the siding at the joining point. You must also check on the framing of your home where you wish your deck to stand. Is it strong enough?

The fifth thing you must consider are the deck supports as a whole. You need to decide exactly how many footings and posts you will need, and where you intend to place them. If you plan a very large deck, you should plan for a large number of footings and posts. With a smaller deck, you might not need quite as many.

An additional thing to note is the decking material you plan to use. Do you want a wood deck or one made of composite materials? If wood, you should choose your variety. Redwood, cedar, and pressure treated pine are all popular because they resist rot and decay. If you choose another wood decking material, you will, on a constant basis, need to provide protectant and sealant material. Composite decking materials are a good choice because they have been chemically engineered to avoid all of the problems of traditional wood.

The seventh thing to think about is the permits that will be required to build your deck in your area. Different areas have different zoning laws and requirements. Where some areas will require a building permit, others will require only a periodic site inspection. Some require both. It is best to check with your city government to decide what action you need to take to file for a permit.

The eighth thing to consider is the tools required for the project. Do you have everything you need on hand? How much additional expense will this add to the project? At the very least, you will need three different saws. If you do not have this kind of experience, you should consider the next point very carefully.

The ninth thing to think about is whether or not you will need professional help with this project. Decking is a big project to undertake if you are a weekend handyman. Moreover, if you have very little construction experience, decking is not a good first learning project. Poorly built decks are very dangerous, and if you cannot handle the project, leave it to a professional.

The final thing to consider is the extras you might want to build into your deck. You could add flower boxes on each corner. You might want a decorative hand rail. You might even want built in seating for your guests. Whatever extras you add, they will personalize your deck.

A deck can be a great place for a number of activities, but it is a huge undertaking.

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

Paul Duxbury writes extensively on Home Improvement and Gardening and you can learn more at www.home-improvement-centre.com and www.essential-garden-accessories.com

An Overview Of The Worlds Most Beautiful Flowers - Australian Orchids

2007-04-29T15:29:00.000Z

There are over 30,000 species of orchids making it the largest family and the plant world. These fabulous flowering plants are known for their gorgeous flowers that come in all colors. Although they can grow in many places, orchids love tropical climates where they grow on trees trunks and branches.

In Australia, orchids grow in the southern region and can be found growing on tree trunks as well as in the ground. Australia boasts about 1200 orchid species many of which are not found anywhere else in the world.

Many of the Australian orchids have adapted some specialized methods of enticing insects over for pollination. The Drakonorchis Barbarossa or common dragon orchid looks like a wingless female wasp and therefore is very attractive to male wasps.

These specialized orchids are so interesting that scientists at the CPBR study these orchids which are sent to them by licensed collectors of Australian orchids. This national herbarium orchid collection consists of 48,000 dried specimens 18,005 hundred cards whichh contain the affected pieces of flowers and over 19,000 Spirit preserved orchid specimens.

Some of the interesting Australian orchids Include the Durabaculum Nindii or endangered blue orchid which is native to North Eastern Queensland, the dotted Sun orchid, the nodding green hood, the tongue orchid, and the cowslip orchid to name but a few.

In Australia, you will find epiphytes which grow on trees as well as terrestrials which grown around. The ratio is about 70% terrestrial to 30% epiphytes. Epiphytes are the easiest to grow in the most common in orchid collections.

Western Australia is home to mostly terrestrial orchids which are well-known for their size, bright color and strange markings. These dainty fragile flowers fascinate most everyone who sees them. Some of these orchids like those of the endemic genus Rhizanthella live their whole lives underground.

Orchids are great plants and make an unusual gift whether they are given as a live potted plant or in a vase with other flowers. If you have a green thumb, you might even try growing your own orchids if you can provide them with enough humidity and proper nutrients you may be successful not matter where you live in the world.

When growing orchids, the most important thing you can do is provide enough humidity. They will need over 50% so be sure you setup an area where you can provide them with this!

Orchids can be challenging to grow but if you love these beautiful plants, you can easily find them at your florist or even in the supermarket and take an already grown plant home to enjoy!

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

Lee Dobbins writes for orchids.garden-corner.com where you can learn more about orchids including different types of orchids from all over the world.

Worried About Garden Pests? Why Not Let Nature Do The Work!

2007-04-27T17:40:00.000Z

Gardening can be a fun and relaxing hobby but if you have to constantly be worried about garden pests damaging your plants became soon turned into a source of stress.

Dumping harsh chemicals on your plants is not good for you or the environment but luckily there is a better way. You can encourage natural predators into your garden that will soon eliminate these pesky pests. These natural creatures can live in harmony in your garden where they will eat the pests that are harming your plants.

Here are some natural predators and how you might encourage them to take up residence in your garden.

Frogs

What would a garden be without some frogs and toads? They are likely attracted to your garden as it is, but you can add a few elements to attract even more of them. Since frogs and toads love water you might think of installing a garden pond, or at the very least a small water feature low to the ground that they can breed in. They will thank you by helping to control small insects and slugs.

Lady Bugs

Ladybugs love to eat aphids so you want to attract as many of them as you can into your garden. You probably recognize them as an adult with a red and black dotted shells but you might not easily recognize the lava which is gray in color with orange dots. Don't mistake the larva for a past as these lover can chow down more aphids than the adults. Ladybugs like Cosmos, scented geraniums and even dandelions so be sure to have plenty of those in your garden.

Ground Beetles

Ground beetles like to make their home under stones or leaf covers and sleep all day coming out at night to feed on garden pests. They have quite an appetite Emil Chow down slugs, snails, cutworms and leather jackets and the lava or egg stage. Some will even climb up in the trees to get a good meal and can eat gypsy moth and tent caterpillars. you can encourage these as you garden are providing permanent plantings for them to live under, loose leaf cover or small stones.

Birds

Who doesn't want birds in their garden? While these might be considered pests for some vegetables they can also read your garden of pests such as caterpillars, grubbs, slugs and aphids which they feed on. have a little bird bath in your garden as well as some nesting boxes to encourage birds into the garden where they might see a tasty grub they might want to feast on.

Lacewings

Lacewings, or the larva of lace wings feed on aphids and small soft bodied pests. To attract bees, make sure you have a water source and plant lots of nectar and pollen flowers as they like to lay their eggs underneath the leaves of these plants.

With a little bit of strategic planning, you can attract these predators into your garden which will not only help control the pests but will also add interest to the garden. Plus, it's a lot more fun to plant particular flowers and put out sources of water to attract birds, beetles and frogs into your garden than it is to drag out the sprayer hose and douse your garden with chemicals! Not only will you be getting rid of pests on your plants, you'll also be providing a food source for the predators and keeping the environment free of chemicals!

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

Lee Dobbins writes for www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com where you can learn more about gardening and growing lush garden flowers.

Hydroponics - Growing Plants Without Soil

2007-04-16T08:56:00.000Z

Derived from the Greek "water working", hydroponics simply means growing plants in either a bath or flow of highly oxygenated, nutrient rich water. The strange part is hydroponics does not need soil to grow. During hydroponics water is enriched with nutrients salts, creating a hydroponics nutrient solution that remains perfectly balanced. The advantage of hydroponics is it does not harm the environment as does waste from fertilized soils.

Requirements for hydroponics

Hydroponics systems cannot be applicable in poor growing conditions such as improper temperature, inadequate light, or pests' problems.
Following are the requirements for hydroponics plants to survive:

§ Water - you have to provide adequate amount of water. If the aggregate amount of water is not enough to keep the roots sufficiently moist, then the plants may dry and die. Make sure that water contains adequate [neither excess nor less] amount of alkalinity, sodium or salt contents for survival of hydroponics.

§ Oxygen - plants will require good amount of oxygen for respiration to carry out their work of nutrients and water uptake. The best way to supply oxygen is to bubble the air through the water solution.

§ Temperature - hydroponics grow well within limited temperature range. Either too high or too low temperature results in reduced productions and abnormal developments of the plants.

§ Light - plants like vegetables and fruits grown through hydroponics need at least 8 to 10 hours of direct sunlight each day to produce well. However as an alternative to sunlight, you can apply incandescent light or high-pressure sodium lamps to produce the same effects.

§ Mineral nutrients - green plants must absorb certain minerals through their roots to survive. The essential elements needed in large quantities include potassium, calcium, nitrogen, magnesium, phosphorus and sulfur.

Hydroponics may also be called "controlled environmental agriculture" as it helps to control the environmental systems like water, light, CO2, oxygen, pH and nutrients.

Hydroponics growing technique

Hydroponics has a completely different growing technique method as compared to normal gardening methods.
Following are the brief ways you can grow hydroponics:

§ Nutrient film technique - the nutrient is fed into grow tubes where the roots draw it up. While a thin film of nutrient allows the roots to have constant contact with nutrients and the air layer above, the excess nutrient is drawn back into the reservoir.

§ Aeroponics or deep water culture - in this system the roots are misted within a chamber. A pump pushes the water with nutrient solution through sprayers, keeping the roots wet while providing a maximum amount of oxygen.

§ Drip-irrigation - this is also known as micro-irrigation where a controlled amount of solution is continuously drip-fed over the medium and root system. There is another tube that gets connected to the lower part of the garden system to recover the solution.

§ Home hobbyists system - these systems include deep water and aeroponics systems, which are more famous with housewives and children.

Grow hydroponics in your home, restaurant or office to give a completely different and fresh touch to the surrounding ambience.

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

Author Barney Garcia is a proud contributing author and enjoys writing about many different topics. Please visit my web sites @ www.hydroponic-howtos.info and www.greenhouse-and-nursery.info

Use of Garden Ponds

2007-04-09T12:51:00.000Z

Why Choose A Garden Pond?

Do you enjoy spending time in your garden or outdoor space? Do you gain a sense of relaxation and well-being from the sound and feel of your natural surroundings? Do you enjoy the sound of birds singing, the rustle of plants in the wind, the hum of pollinating bees and the scent of flowers in full bloom?

Garden ponds can improve on that experience by adding a new dimension to any outdoor space - from bath tub-sized to a small lake, the benefits of a garden pond are potentially available to anyone with a little outdoor space.

Many people find the sight and sound of water to be relaxing, even therapeutic. An afternoon by a lake or river can provide the perfect antidote to the stresses and pressures of modern life. With a garden pond, you can bring that experience back home, and recreate it in your own garden.

In addition, adding water to your garden offers a whole range of opportunities to extend and vary the ecosystem of your outdoor space and to create a more varied and rich environment right on your doorstep.

What Can I Do With A Garden Pond?

What can't you do? Given sufficient space, you can even make your own private swimming or fishing pond. But for most people, a far more modestly-sized pond is enough to create a wonderful addition to their garden. Learn more about garden ponds at http://www.garden-fountains.com.

Here are a few ideas to get you started.

Decorative Garden Pond

By far the most popular type of pond is one that is purely decorative. Without too much effort, it is possible to create a healthy and sustainable pond, with a variety of attractive aquatic plants and perhaps a little animal life too.

Water lilies provide a practical and attractive way to help keep the water free of algae, and with a few carefully chosen plants and rocks around the edge of your pond, you will have an attractive addition to your garden.

Fish Ponds

Garden ponds have a strong association in many people's minds with Carp, and formal Japanese gardens. While a true Japanese garden takes many years to develop, a healthy fish pond just takes a few weeks, and many people enjoy the lustrous colors and calming movements of pond fish.

It's a hobby that just takes a little time each day, and feeding and tending to your fish pond can be a relaxing and therapeutic way to unwind in the evening after a day's work.

Educational Garden Ponds

This is not really a category on its own, because any pond can serve as an educational aid for young children, but it is important enough to be worth highlighting. Not all schools have easy access to natural environments, and the miniature ecosystem that can be contained in a garden pond can be a wonderful and enjoyable educational tool for young children.

Tadpoles and frogs are always a favorite, and often seem to arrive in ponds all by themselves! Equally, older children will learn about the effects of sunlight on plants and water, and how it's necessary to maintain a healthy balance between different types of plant and animal.

Garden ponds can be a great educational tool for children (and adults!) and if you have young children, you will undoubtedly find that they love the garden pond!

Garden Pond Design

The creation of a garden pond does not have to be prohibitively expensive, but it does require a little time, money and good planning.

Making sure you get the planning right and not cutting corners on the construction is the best way to end up with a healthy, easy to maintain, and attractive pond, so we've put together a few tips to help you design your pond.

Locating Your Pond

Before you do anything else, decide where you'd like to have your pond. Consider the following points:

# Aim for a location that gets plenty of sun, especially in more temperate climates

# Stay away from trees whose leaves might end up in the pond - consider which way the prevailing wind blows

# Make sure you choose a location that you will be able to see from your porch or patio - after all the effort you will want to be able to enjoy the sight of your work.

# Make sure you can run an electrical supply to the pond - most ponds will need a pump or filter of some sort - and you'll need a water supply too.

Building Your Pond

For smaller ponds, you will have the choice of a rigid or flexible liner - a pre-formed rigid liner may be easier to install and appear the better choice, but you may struggle to find one in the right shape for your chosen location. They are also quite hard to get level when you install them.

A flexible liner, on the other hand, allows you to create a pond of almost any shape and size, but requires a little more care and effort to install successfully. You can also create a more natural look by filling the inside with soil and rocks that allow underwater plants to grow.

Ultimately what's best for you will depend on your budget and location, but make sure you research your choices thoroughly, and don't underestimate the challenge of installing a pond successfully. It's worth considering paying a professional to do the job, once you are clear on your requirements.

Whatever you choose, make sure you take time to enjoy the end result and reap the rewards of your own private water garden.

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

Written by Elizabeth Jean for www.Garden-Fountains.com For more information, visit The Father of Fountain Design

A Garden For All Seasons

2007-04-07T14:03:00.000Z

All great gardens have one thing in common. That is, they offer something during each of the four seasons. Through spring and summer the colorful flowers of perennials, annuals and flowering trees and shrubs are the focal point in the garden. Once the summer flowers begin to fade, the brilliant, colorful foliage of autumn brightens the garden. In the winter, it's the evergreens, berries and bark which provide the garden with color as the form and shape of the plants become more prominent.

Green is the dominant color in the garden in the spring as everything seems to be rapidly putting out new growth. The bulbs and perennials which do flower in the early spring do so against a backdrop of green foliage and brown earth. Bulbs are earliest blooming plants in the garden and are essential to the spring landscape. Some bulbs will even provide color until more perennials begin to bloom in May and June.

Early flowering perennials such as iris range in color from white to yellow to purple and in size from a few inches to 4 feet. For spring foliage, plant some hosta, they grow in a wide variety of greens, from blue-green to yellow-green and they're the perfect backdrop plant for the spring flowers.

Perennial borders peak in mid summer as a wide range of sun-loving flowers begin to bloom. Part of the mix include some leftovers from spring and, towards the end of summer, there are signs of the later blooming flowers as well. Annuals are also in full bloom mid-summer. Though most have finished flowering, fully leafed out shrubs can add a lushness to the garden.

A third wave of blooms begin brighten up the garden once again as the summer flowers begin to fade. The colors in the garden begin to change a bit in the fall with many perennials blooming in shades of yellow, orange and purple. Among these flowers are the annuals, which continue to flower until the first frost. Later in the season, the flowers, especially those of the sedum and black-eyed Susan, turn into brown and rust colored seed heads. They fit in perfectly with the colorful fall foliage of the surrounding trees. The foliage of the late season perennial is attractive on its own.

Once the blooms of the these flowers fade deciding whether to cut them back is up to the individual gardener. Some perennials will collapse to the ground anyways while others will remain standing though the winter with their showy seed heads creating off season interest in the garden.

Winter, the season in which many gardeners forget about the landscape, can offer color and visual interest through evergreen shrubs, bark, plant form and seed heads. For example, a clump of ornamental grass could be left standing through the winter. Redtwig dogwoods are great against the snow and birch trees have colorful, flaking bark. The winter landscape truly would be empty with the hardy evergreen trees and shrubs. Garden walls and fences become more prominent as the foliage which screens them in the summer disappears. Hedges, as well as walls, make a stronger statement in winter.

With some careful planning, it is possible to have a beautiful garden year round. Even in winter, when everything seems to be stark and barren. A few choice shrubs or trees can provide winter interest and a well thought out garden can flower from early spring until the first frost.

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

R Birch is the publisher of www.gardenlistings.com . For information on all kinds of garden projects visit www.GardenListings.com/Resources.htm

The Art Of Sprinkler Heads For Beautiful Lawns

2007-03-30T09:37:00.000Z

It is a dream to many people to have a beautiful lawn. To most people, they think that to have a beautiful lawn is tough to achieve...

Well, if you know what to do and most importantly if you have proper watering system. The idea behind having a sprinkler system installed within your lawn is to create an established pattern of spraying heads that completely and thoroughly covers all areas needing water. This will ensure a nice even spread to all parts of the lawn.

Following are descriptions of different sprinkler heads and their characteristics.

Rainbird type: These heads are used to cover large areas because of their ability to spray long distances. School yards and parks utilize such heads. They spread water side to side at varying speeds to insure that water is flung in broken drops to the entire surface of the intended coverage area. These heads can spray straight and long, or a screw can be turned to break up the spray in portions that are not flung as far. Caution is advised when using rainbirds; coverage of all heads must be overlapped or dry spots can occur due to uneven watering.

Gear Drive watering: These heads spray like the above, but they move side to side more slowly, in theory to cover more evenly. They usually come in the "pop up" variety, and the best brands feature an excellent adjuster to break up the spray. Still, as given that rainbirds, it is important to be sure that the area of coverage for each head is generously overlapped.

Orbit watering heads: These heads spray in a circular pattern either in full, half, or quarter circles. These heads provide excellent coverage if the placement is thought out correctly. There will be a problem given that clogging if for any reason dirt is allowed in the line. They also must be carefully placed so that they are high enough to spray without obstruction by the growing grass blades, but low enough not to be chopped off by a lawn mower.

Pop-up Orbit heads: These heads are the same as the heads above except that when the water pressure is on, an extender rises. These heads can be set more
easily lower down in the grass to avoid being run over by a mower because the extender will rise up to the position necessary for adequate coverage when water pressure is applied.

Inside of the more steep of these heads, a spring is placed on the extender to bring it back into the closed position when the water is shut off. Cheaper heads rely on gravity to bring them back down; so sometimes the extensions stay elevated and are broken off by lawn mowers or passersby.

Rotary heads: These heads come in "pop-up" variety and are among the top-rated in uniform spreading of water. They are equipped given that springs to draw the extended portion back in after use, and the structure of the more steep brands is quite long-lasting and durable.

Aside from using a sprinkler system, there is now an choice solution: Many of us advertisements throughout the U.S. proclaim the benefits of a new and innovative methodology of watering that uses less water and is much more effective at keeping a garden green and growing. These are leaky pipe systems and their derivatives. These watering systems are made up of thin lines of tubing that run under the surface of a garden and can supply plant roots directly given needed water.

The advantages of using such a system are as follows:

1. Water is applied directly to roots in a continuous arrangement.

2. Fertilizer can be added to the water and distributed directly to the feeder roots without washing away or evaporating.

3. Because water is fed directly to the roots without exposure to the sun or air, there is extremely little or no evaporation. This saves water and money.

In flower and vegetable gardens this procedure is a fantastic way to distribute water to only the spots where plants are growing. But in very hot states such as Arizona, New Mexico, Florida, and Utah (to name only a few) these drip systems have not yet been and are not likely to be perfected for the purpose of watering lawns. In these climates it is sometimes necessary to lay tubing in every square inch of a lawn to provide the sufficient water coverage.

Such enormous undertaking will definitely cost alot. Before having one of these systems installed in your lawn, do check with several sprinkler outfits to ensure that a drip system is feasible in your area.

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

Lesley is the owner of www.makeyourperfectlawntoday.info website which provides free lawn care tips and useful information. Visit now and check out the tips that will help create a lawn that you can be proud of!

5 Ornamental Grasses That Can Add Interest To Your Garden

2007-03-22T21:41:00.000Z

Flowers don't have to be the sole inhabitants of gardens, adding other types of plants like ornamental grasses can add interests to your garden as well as fill in some empty spots and set a beautiful background to show off your bright flowers.

Unlike lawn grass, ornamental grass is made to grow to its full height. Therefore you want to carefully choose the planting location so as to ensure your grasses do not obscure the view of shorter plants. Here are five interesting ornamental grasses that can add a unique twist to your garden.

Hardy Pampas Grass

This is a very tall grass that can grow up to 12 feet and produces white plumed flowers in September and October. It works great as a screen to screen out neighbors or other unsightly areas and grows in large clumps that can be 5 feet wide. It grows in zones five to nine and likes moist well-drained soils with a lot of sun. If it gets too wet, however this can cause damage in winter.

Annual Fountain Grass

this ornamental grass makes a great border but is only suitable for southern climates and grows best in zone nine. It grows in up to 4 feet and is a fast-growing plant. It comes In two colors green leaves and red leaved. You can dig the crowns up in fall and overwinter them indoors but make sure you get them before the first frost.

Japanese Silver Grass

This is commonly used in gardens and can grow from three to 6 feet in height. It grows in dense masses and Is a beautiful greenish silvery color with white pink or red flowers that bloom from late August until the first frost. These grasses grow in zones five to nine and can take a wide range of soils but prefer full sun and moist fertile soil.

Ribbon Grass

Ribbon grass is great to put in places where you can't seem to get anything else to grow but be careful because it can be rather invasive. It is hardy in zones four through eight and can grow to three or 4 feet producing white flowers from June to October. It can tolerate a wide range of soil conditions and will grow both in sun and shade.

Rabbits Tail Grass

This grass is an annual that is rather easy to grow from seed and produces white fuzzy flowers that look like tiny rabbit tails. It is often seen in dried floral arrangements and is best grown in clumps to get the best effect. Rabbit tale grass grows to 2 feet in height and prefers well-drained soil and lots of sun. there is also a dwarf variety that only grows to 6 inches.

There are many ornamental grasses to choose from and if you plan to add them to your garden should do a little bit of research to find out how tall they grow and how Invasive they can be before planting them. These grasses can be planned right in the ground or even putting containers for each unique exotic look that you won't find in just any garden.

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

Lee Dobbins writes for grasses.garden-g8way.com where you can learn more about caring for and choosing lawn and ornamental grasses.

Home Composting: 10 Ways to Make it Successful for You

2007-03-22T11:05:00.000Z

Gardening is a fun and invigorating activity. It keeps one busy and productive and brings the creativity and ingenuity in everyone. Gardening beautifies our homes but it also produces a good deal of yard waste. What better way to make this waste work out for you than to use it to enrich your garden through composting? You'd be making your soil more fertile for the health of your plants and at the same time, you'd be helping you community dispose of waste in the cleanest, cheapest and easiest manner. Here are some simple ways to make home composting successful for you:

1. Select the best compost material. Composting is simply simulating, if not imitatinag nature's natural process of breaking down dead matter and using it to replenish the soils nutrients. The best source would obviously be your own yard waste such as the dried leaves, straw and wood chips from your own vegetation. Experts recommend using browns and greens. Browns are rich in carbon while greens are rich in nitrogen.

2. Correct combination of compost materials. To make home composting successful, it is better to combine different compost materials that to use just one type. Combine some of the materials mentioned in the above tip and shred them into small pieces to make them easier to store in case you might want to pile them later.

3. Use of manure can also mean successful home composting. Manure is also a rich source of organic materials and may come from a variety of animals such as chicken, ducks, pigs, sheep, cow and goats. They are rich sources of nitrogen which plants need in building up their tissues. It is best to layer this manure with dried leaves and to not simply add it into the pile s that it is effectively decomposed and incorporated into the compost.

4. Cold composting. Cold composting is easy enough to do which involves piling all the materials you have chosen as compost materials. Put them up in a pile and give them time to decompose, after months or a year, you'd have a rich compost from the decomposition of these materials.

5. Hot composting is more systematic and laborious than cold composting but it works. The pile should be at least 3- feet deep and is made up of alternating materials. Water is sprinkled regularly on the pile keep it most for microbial growth and action. Once in a while, you may mix the pile to expose the lower layers to oxygen and promote further decomposition of organic matter. This should generate some heat in the compost as gases are produced with the breakdown of organic matter.

6. Stink management is also a key to successful home composting. If the pile is not aerated enough, it begins to give off a bad odor. To resolve this problem, turn and mix the pile once in a while. Do not allow your compost pile to simply stink up.

7. Keep moisture level up but not too much. Adding too much water will waterlog your microorganisms which will not be good for them too and will inhibit their decomposing activities.

8. If the pile is dry and is not heating up, one has to do the entire pile all over again and this time cut the materials into smaller pieces. Add enough water also to make the entire pile moist to stimulate microbial activity.

9. No matter how you are promoting the decomposition of organic waste, you compost should not be a breeding ground for flies and ants that can be sources of diseases and may hard your plants in the long run. Another key to successful home composting is management of these insects by covering the pile with dirt. It does not do if these insects would proliferate in your compost because they may do more harm than your compost may do you good.

10. For a successful home composting, keep your compost pile within your yard. It should be contained within a particular space so it does not look like a dumpsite of some sort. Building a simple fence may do the trick. Your enclosure should also allow some air to get in through the sides.

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

Lee Dobbins writes for www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com where you can learn what you need to know about gardening and landscaping from growing beautiful flowers to patio decor.

Enhance Your Garden With Flowering Trees

2007-03-21T22:35:00.000Z

Flowering trees can add beauty to your landscape and enhance your garden but when choosing trees you have a few things to consider.

First of all, you want to be sure to select a tree whose height will be a good match for the spot you are putting it in. If you want a rather short tree to compliment a corner garden, then you won't want to choose one that grows to 50 feet tall. On the other hand, if you want a large tree to spruce up your front yard, a dwarf tree will be ... well ... dwarfed by the rest of the landscape.

You'll also want to choose trees that thrive in your area and be aware of any pests or special maintenance. Your local garden center can help steer you in the right direction for maintenance and planting instructions. Here's some flowering trees you might want to consider:

Flowering Cherry Trees

There are several varieties of flowering cherry trees that grow from 12 feet to 50 feet tall. The Snow Fountain Flowering Cherry is great for smaller gardens and grows to only 12 feet in height. This tree has branches that droop to the ground with white flowers that bloom early in the season. A perfect tree to highlight a corner garden. The Pendula Weeping Japanese Flowering Cherry gets to about 20 feet in height and about 15 feet in width. It has pale pink flowers that bloom early in the season. The Kwanzan has in inverted cone shape and will get to about 30 feet tall X 20 feet wide. It has large pink flowers that bloom in mid season. The Kwanzan has orange foliage in fall. The Sargentii Flowering Cherry Tree is the tallest reaching 50 feet in height. It has pink flowers that bloom in clumps during the mid season.

Flowering Dogwood Tree

This is one of the most popular trees and has white flowers that bloom in spring. This tree, however is a bit picky about where you plant it and should be planted in a sheltered area, either on the side of the house or where it will be shaded by another tree.

Flowering Peach Tree

If you live in a Southern climate, then you are probably familier with this tree. This vase shaped tree grows to 25 feet and produces a lot of fruit. You must, however, plant it in the correct climate and soil. Avoid soil that is too wet or you will be disappointed with the outcome.

Flowering Pear Tree

The flowering pear tree can perk up any landscape and grows to about 45 feet producing lush yummy fruit as well as flowers. There are actually different types of pear trees that will grow to different sizes. They produce white buds in spring with either red or purple foliage in fall.

The Magnolia

This tree is another long time favorite and produces beautiful flowers that bloom in spring. If you live in the south you will want to consider the Southern Magnolia with it's fragrant white flowers. This variety can reach heights of 80 feet and shows red fruit in fall. In the north, you'll want to plant the saucer magnolia that has pinkish white flowers in early spring and grows to 30 feet.

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

Lee Dobbins writes for www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com where you can learn more about gardening, garden flowers and garden design.

Beneficial Insects and Spiders

2007-03-20T11:56:00.000Z

Although we focus on the insects that destroy our landscape plants and crops, these bad insects give a bad name to virtually all insect species which are actually good. They either do no harm, provide food for desirable species such as birds, or attack and kill the pests we don’t want. Here are ten common beneficial insects we should be aware of in our yards and gardens.

Lady beetles, also known as ladybugs and ladybird beetles, are perhaps the most well-known beneficial insect. The brightly colored, rounded beetles are often orange, but can be red, pink or yellow, and with or without spots. Both the larvae (the caterpillar stage before they turn into adult beetles) and the adults can eat hundreds of aphids in their lifetimes. They also eat insect eggs, mites, and soft-bodied insects such as mealybugs.

One of these, known as the Halloween lady beetle, enters homes in large numbers in the fall. Proper screening, patching cracks, and just vacuuming them up are simple controls.

Ground beetles range in size from a quarter inch to over one inch long, and are shiny brown, black, or bluish-black. They have long legs and antennae. Most feed at night on caterpillars such as armyworms, cutworms, and grubs. They may even eat small snails and slugs. A pair of adult ground beetles can eat over 300 gypsy moth caterpillars per year.

Praying mantids also are known by many, being up to three inches long, and with its enlarged front legs held out in front as if praying. They are not protected by state laws as some believe. In fact, they may do more harm than good, eating anything they can including honey bees, other beneficials, and even each other!

Dustywing adults are a quarter inch long, or less, with gray dusty-colored wings. Larvae are often mistaken for plant debris. Both stages of this insect feed on spider mites, aphids, and scale insects. They are considered one of the most uncommon, unrecognized, and under-appreciated of the beneficial insects.

Lacewings, both green and brown, are about three-fourths of an inch long as adults, with lacey wings. They are attracted to lights at night, and give off an odor when handled. Larvae are like small alligators, with sickle-shaped mouthparts (mandibles). Green lacewing larvae are called “aphid lions” from their large consumption of aphids, as well as mites and other small insects.

Hover flies, also known as syrphid or flower flies, closely resemble wasps and bees yet they don’t sting. One key difference is that they have only two wings. Larvae resemble tiny slugs, and often are found feeding in aphid colonies. Each larva can eat over 400 aphids. Attract adults with flowers that provide lots of nectar and pollen.

Predatory bugs feed on nectar and pollen too. They include several species. Big-eyed bugs are black and white with silvery wings and bulging eyes. They feed on most insects they can catch, including chinch bugs, small caterpillars, mites, and insect eggs. Minute pirate bugs are similar, with similar feeding. Damsel bugs are under a half-inch long, longer than wide, and
with long legs. They eat aphids, small caterpillars, leafhoppers, plant bugs, and insect eggs. Predaceous stink bugs differ from those that feed on plants, in having a distinct spike on each shoulder. They feed on over 100 types of insects.

Predatory wasps include ones that can sting us, and so we usually kill them on sight. Bald-faced hornet, yellow jackets, and paper wasps though, are important predators of caterpillars and similar soft-bodied insects. For this reason try and coexist with them, only destroying nests (using proper precautions) if they threaten people and pets.

Parasitic wasps are a large group of many species, most tiny (under an eighth inch long, so often overlooked) to an inch and a half long. They lay eggs inside hosts such as aphids and caterpillars. Once the larvae hatch, they consume the insect hosts. Swollen aphids, and caterpillars with white eggs on their back, are examples of this beneficial insect at work.

Parasitic flies, also known as tachinid flies, are a diverse group of over 1,300 species. They often resemble, so can be mistaken for, houseflies, bees, and wasps. Many lay eggs on hosts, the hatching maggots boring into the hosts and killing them through feeding. Hosts include caterpillars such as of the gypsy moth, beetles such as the Japanese, sawfly larvae, true bugs, and grasshoppers among others.

You can find diagrams of these insects, more information on them, and methods to help and not harm them, in the online Extension bulletin 7150 from the University of Maine.

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Common Fruit Tree Pests

2007-03-19T22:24:00.000Z

Codling moth, plum curculio, and trunk borers are common pests on tree fruits in New England. Being ready for these if you have crabapples, flowering cherries, and fruit trees, and knowing cultural controls, will help you have better fruit with the least harm to the environment. A New England website of Extension services (pronewengland.org) provides some photos, information, and further resources on these and other garden problems.

Codling moth larvae (small caterpillar stage) hatch in June and early July. They seek newly developing fruit which they tunnel into, usually feeding in the center of the fruit and on the developing seeds. Look for piles of “sawdust” in July on the flower end of fruit. They feed on apples and pears, and even the related landscape plants quince, hawthorn, and crabapple. Affected fruits, if just with a bite on the surface, usually merely have a surface blemish. Fruits in which larvae have tunneled inside drop prematurely.

If using pesticides to control codling moth, follow label directions, especially in regard to proper timing of spring sprays. Biorational pesticides—those with a biological base—although better for the environment may be less effective. These include bacteria, insect growth regulators, viruses, and botanical based products. More on controls and timing can be found in a Cornell University leaflet (www.nysipm.cornell.edu/factsheets).

Plum curculio weevils lay eggs in spring on apple, pear, peach, plum, and cherry fruits once they are pea size. The eggs hatch into larvae which feed on fruit, causing them to drop. Larvae feed on seeds of pome fruits (such as apples) but not of stone fruits (such as cherries). If fruits remain, they show D-shaped scars or deformities. If spraying for other pests in the spring, this one usually will be controlled as well. Especially watch for this pest in spring on trees near hedgerows or woods where this pest may be present.

There are several species of trunk borers that kill fruit trees. Adult beetles lay eggs on lower parts of tree trunks in summer. The larvae that hatch tunnel throughout the trunk, causing structural damage and a site for wood rot diseases to enter. Especially susceptible are young, unsprayed trees, and those with close-fitting tree guards. Such guards, put on to deter mammal feeding, provide an ideal site for these borers to lay their eggs. Removing these guards in spring helps to lessen this pest. This insect, too, is usually controlled by sprays for other orchard pests so is most often found on wild or unsprayed trees.

One of the best controls for this pest is to keep trees healthy. If planting new ones, or near landscapes, keep them at least 300 yards away from other host plants for this pest. These include crabapples, hawthorns, and shadbush. Keeping brush and grass mowed and away from trunks allows natural predators such as woodpeckers and parasitic wasps to find these pests.

Other potentially serious pests of tree fruits include various mites, aphids, and San Jose scale. More on all these pests, and controls, can be found at the above Cornell factsheet website.

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Checking Viburnums and Other April Gardening Tips

2007-03-18T20:43:00.000Z

Checking viburnum shrubs for leaf beetle eggs, preparing flower planters, and potting dahlia tubers are some of the garden tips for this month.

If your viburnums had problems with viburnum leaf beetles last summer, now is the time to inspect your plants closely for egg-laying sites on the bark. Look for tiny, brownish black bumps on your twigs. These are the coverings over holes in which the eggs are laid. Prune these infested twigs as soon as possible because the eggs will be hatching soon and the young larvae will begin feeding on new foliage.

Check strawberry plants twice a week for signs of new growth. As soon as you see sprouts, remove the hay or straw mulch and spread it in the rows to help control weeds. A topdressing of an inch or two of compost will give plants a boost.

It's a good idea to test your soil every few years to determine its nutrient status and pH (acidity/alkalinity). Your state extension service can provide a reasonably priced test, and along with the results you'll get recommendations for improving the soil. The proper soil pH is especially important for plant health.

When planting large containers for the deck or patio, save on soil by creating a false bottom. Most of the plants you'll use don't need more than about a foot of soil depth for their roots, so put some foam packing peanuts in the very bottom, then cover with landscape fabric or a piece of cardboard cut to fit to keep the soil from sifting around the peanuts. Or use small plastic pots to take up some space before filling the planter with soil.

Get flowers sooner by potting up dahlia tubers and growing them indoors until it's warm enough to plant them outside. Pinch the growing tips when they get six inches tall to keep the growth short and stocky for easier transplanting into the garden.

To get a head-start on fresh greens, sow seeds in a large, shallow container. Keep the container outside during the day and bring it in at night if the temperatures dip below freezing, or protect it in a cold frame.

Don’t be in too much of a rush to prune roses and other woody perennials. If butterfly bush has died to the ground, cut the dead stems to the ground. Otherwise just shorten them by about one third. Cut back Russian sage, rue, and artemisias to about 8 to 12 inches from the ground. Don't prune lavender until new growth appears, and then just shorten the stems by about one-third. Heather should be lightly pruned to remove the old flowers and the tips of the shoots, but don't cut back to brown wood, stay in the green.

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Checked out Perry’s Perennial Pages lately? www.uvm.edu/~pass/perry

Spring Tips for the Fruit Garden

2007-03-15T14:09:00.000Z

Pruning, removing mulch from strawberries, and fertilizing blueberries are some of the activities in the fruit garden during spring.

Late winter and early spring is the time to order bare-root fruiting trees and shrubs if you haven’t done so already. They will be shipped before they start to grow, in time for planting in your area. They will need to be planted immediately upon arrival, so plan your spot now.

As soon as the buds start to swell, it's time to begin pruning apple, plum, and cherry trees. Plum trees should be pruned to an open center, while apple and cherry trees grow best pruned to a modified leader (center is more closed and tree is more upright). Remove any dead,
diseased, or broken branches, as well as crossing branches and twiggy, nonproductive growth.

Spray horticultural oil on fruit trees, such as apples, plums, and cherries, to smother any overwintering insects. Choose a calm day when temperatures are above 40 degrees F, and be sure to cover all sides of the branches. You can also apply it to evergreens to control spider
mites and other insects. Carefully follow the instructions on the label for proper usage and appropriate plants.

Check strawberry plants twice a week for signs of new growth in early spring. As soon as you see sprouts, remove the hay or straw mulch and spread it in the rows to help control weeds. A topdressing of an inch or two of compost will give plants a boost.

Check apple, cherry, and other fruit trees for nests of tent caterpillars. Blast low-lying nests with water to destroy them, or knock them to the ground and destroy them. A spray of Bt will kill emerging caterpillars but is not toxic to beneficial insects, birds, or humans.

Blueberries benefit from an acidic fertilizer each year. Apply one half pound of ammonium sulfate when the bushes start blooming, and another half pound four to six weeks later. If the leaves turn yellow with green veins, they may have an iron deficiency. Applying two to three ounces of ferrous sulfate or iron chelate around the base of the plants will help this.

If you have red raspberries and didn’t get them pruned after harvest last year, do so now. Keep in mind the summer-bearing varieties produce fruit on one-year old canes. So prune out those that fruited last year to direct plant energy into the newer canes. Wait to prune fall-bearing
varieties until after their summer crop, as they produce fruits on new canes at the end of the first growing season, then again the following summer.

Visit the National Gardening Association’s web site (www.garden.org) for more information on gardening and regional reports

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Leonard P. Perry - Check out Perry’s Perennial Pages lately? www.uvm.edu/~pass/perry

The Benefits of Vinyl Fencing

2007-03-03T22:25:00.000Z

Vinyl fencing is now the most popular form of residential fencing sold, with sales steadily increasing every year. While vinyl has been used as a fencing material for decades, it's only been in the last fifteen years that it has really soared in popularity. This is because the materials, construction and options have all improved dramatically with innovations in design and manufacturing.

Today's vinyl fencing has plenty of benefits over traditional wood fencing that makes it a fantastic investment for any homeowner. Manufacturers now offer options like more realistic textures that mimic wood grain, a variety of colors far beyond the original white and special vinyl polymers that resist fading or yellowing. The benefits of owning a vinyl fence include:

Virtually no upkeep. Once you install vinyl fencing, you don't have to worry about scraping, painting or staining ever again. The color of the vinyl goes all the way through, so it doesn't wear off or flake away when exposed to the elements. You can install it and forget it, except for enjoying its beauty. It's also easy to repair in the rare instance that something does happen. If a vinyl post cap comes loose or is stolen, you simply order a new one and snap it into place. It's so simple, and every vinyl post cap in your fence style will fit because they are made to exacting specifications.

Vinyl fencing improves resale value of your home. Home buyers love the look of a traditional wood fence, but many shy away from the prospect of having to take care of one. Most people simply don't have the time to scrape and paint every year and don't have the skills to do extensive repairs. They see a wooden fence as an expensive, time-consuming project. Vinyl fencing, however, is seen as an attractive, maintenance-free feature that they can enjoy for years - and they will be willing to pay for it.

Home Owner's Associations prefer vinyl fencing. Home Owner's Associations have lots of rules and regulations covering everything from what color you paint your house to what type of landscaping is acceptable. More and more of them are also demanding high quality vinyl fences for homeowners' property in order to maintain a well-groomed appearance. Wooden fencing is increasingly restricted because many people simply get tired of taking care of them and they become eyesores in the community.

Vinyl fencing is safer. If you want to surround a play area, pool or spa, nothing is stronger or safer than vinyl. It is much stronger than wood, yet it is smoother and has more give so that there is less chance of injury. You can choose from a wide variety of vinyl post caps that are smooth-edged with rounded or curved tops to minimize possible injury as well.

You protect the environment. Vinyl fencing doesn't use precious natural resources such as hardwood trees that take years to re-grow. You prevent deforestation and contribute to protecting the environment by opting for vinyl fencing, some of which is made from recycled materials.

Vinyl fencing is a short-term investment that has numerous long-term advantages over wood fencing. It is attractive, durable and low-maintenance and will give you many more years of enjoyment than any wood fence ever could. With so many attractive styles and colors now available, the choice is simple.

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Tony King is a contributing author for USA Vinyl. USA Vinyl only uses top quality 100% Virgin materials in everything you see and touch. USAVinyl utilizes high quality acrylic and vinyl materials (not from secondary markets) in the substrate. Visit USA Vinyl.com today!

Sowing Cole Crops & Other March Gardening Tips

2007-03-02T02:37:00.000Z

Sowing cole crops, forcing pussy willow twigs indoors, and fertilizing houseplants are some of the gardening tips for this month.

Cole crops, such as broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage, can be started over the next couple of weeks indoors under lights. These cool-loving crops will grow six weeks indoors before being transplanted outdoors two weeks before your last frost date. Keep seedlings moist and well fed to get the sturdiest transplants.

In the next few weeks pussy willow buds will begin swelling, so go on a scavenger hunt for them in wet areas. Take two-foot cuttings from the bush, trying not to deform it by taking too many cuttings in one location. Bring them indoors and place them in water in a cool room.

Now that the days are getting longer, your houseplants will be resuming vigorous growth, so begin fertilizing with a soluble fertilizer. A seaweed or fish emulsion blend is a good choice -- but look for one labeled as "no odor" to avoid the usual pungent smell. You can fertilize monthly at the label’s recommended rate, or fertilize every time you water using one quarter-strength.

Check seed packets for recommendations, then plot out planting times for seeds you'll be starting indoors. Don't try to get a jump on the season by planting earlier; larger plants are more easily stunted than smaller ones and won't necessarily grow faster once they're transplanted outdoors.

If you left your ornamental grasses intact last fall, you can go ahead and prune them back to a height of about 6 inches. If you remove the old growth before new growth starts, you won't risk damaging new sprouts. Add prunings to the compost pile.

Spray horticultural oil on fruit trees, such as apples, plums, and cherries, to smother any overwintering insects. Choose a calm day when temperatures are above 40 degrees F, and be sure to cover all sides of the branches. You can also apply it to evergreens to control spider
mites and other insects. Carefully follow the instructions on the label for proper usage and plants.

Cold frames are handy for hardening off seedlings. You can make a simple cold frame by placing hay bales along the perimeter of a rectangle, and placing old windows or a glass storm door over the top. Purchased cold frames are convenient, and some have thermostatically- controlled tops
that open automatically when the temperature inside hits a designated point. Since the midday sun can heat a closed cold frame up quickly, this feature is especially handy if you're away for long stretches during the day.

Article Source: http://www.article-exposure.com

Leonard P. Perry - Checked out Perry’s Perennial Pages lately? www.uvm.edu/~pass/perry