Team Mammut

Idaho- the "gem state"

2010-01-03T10:38:00.000-08:00

Morning post christmas:

My alarm calls out into the darkness.

"Your joking..... please be joking," I think.

It continues to sing and sing and sing. I attempt to assuage the ringing in my ears by stuffing my head into the pillows. Its 7 am already. I have no option but to face the questionable choices I made the previous evening. The first being my choice of whiskey over water. The second being my prudent decision to leave packing to this morn. I let out a sigh. Typical. Eventually the allure of the mountains seduces me out of bed.

Everyone is there waiting when we arrive- family and friends. I roll out of the vehicle dressed like the michelin man. It is -8 outside and we have a long ride ahead of us in the cold. I feel absolutely foul. As I exhale toxins into the air, I imagine my breath curling toenails. Yikes. I decide to keep my distance from the others while we load the snow cat.

With the rig loaded, we all saddle up and head out. Our destination is a yurt on the Lick Creek summit, just about 25 miles east of McCall, ID. The yurt resides in the western Salmon River Mnts. at the edge of the Frank Church Wilderness Area. If you have never ventured into the Frank Church, it is well worth the visit. Not only is it the largest but also one of the more stunning wilderness areas in the lower 48. Idaho is known as the "gem state". I believe it is because of this region.

The ride is nothing less than magical, with the trees, rocks, and snow all glimmering in the frigid morning light. A layer of crystal varnish coats everything. As a child, this was how I envisioned Narnia, only thank god the bizarre woodland creatures are absent. We continue to slowly climb into the backcountry. The landscape starts to unfold. The valley begins to broaden as peaks ascend to the heavens. My heart flutters. All this in my backyard.

When we reach the summit, after about a 2 hr. cat ride, I am stiff from the cold. Yet, the promise of adventure gets me moving. Although I have done some skiing in the Idaho backcountry, I have never had an opportunity like this: 4 days, 3 nights, unlimited skiing.

After lugging our gear up to the yurt and situating our digs for the next few nights, we head out. My brother sets the skin. I trail somewhere in the back of the group, still burping last night's festivities. We skin toward the ridge through groves of burnt trees. In the past decade or so, this area has been riddled with fires. Now, charred skeletons remain- their dark, dramatic figures emphasized by the brilliantly white snow. As I skin, I listen to the snow tumble through their rigid branches. I am reminded of a rain stick I had as a kid. The snow is light and fast, ideal for this rolling terrain. I reach the top of the ridge, feeling better than when I began. The view is striking. Layers upon layers of ridges, peaks and valleys stack behind one another. Out here the possibilities are unlimited.

The descent is well worth the haul. The graveyard of trees makes for ideal tree skiing, with perfect spacing and visibility. The snow also skis supreme, as the boot top fluff allows for fast dynamic turns amongst the stark skeletons.

With this heavenly blanket of snow, logs, boulders and rollers become wonderful terrain features to incorporate into my descending dance. I reach the bottom all too quickly. My heart thumps with exhilaration. With a long exhale I throw my pack to the ground and start riffling through it for my skins. It's like desperately searching for the tourniquet, eager for another fix.

For the next several days we made laps upon laps in the backcountry surrounding the yurt. The skiing and the scenery were absolutely idyllic. For the most part we skied low angle lines, choosing a higher quantity of runs over large single objectives. Luckily the snowpack remained stable and most areas were ours for the taking.

The last evening proved to be the most eventful. Following a hot brew of chili and a few swigs of Gentleman's Jack, my brother proposed a stellar idea: a moonlight ski. No one contested. Instead we quickly began to compile our gear. We decided to climb to the neighboring ridge and ski the glades back to the yurt. The skin up was a little sloppy, with everyone fatigued from a long day of skiing. Yet, the chili and drink warmed our bellies and juiced our systems. We plugged away up the hill, stopping occasionally to appreciate the light show above. Upon reaching the ridge I fell back in elation. The night was crisp and clear. I lay there for a few moments, listening to my heart thumping in my ears. It was all so refreshing.

The ski down was just as loose as the skin up. Yet, I went with the flow, steering from the rear. As I raced through long, spindly shadows I could hear only the hoots and hollers from the others. The snow was fast and forgiving, the moonlight ample. It was a ride like no other.

We returned to the yurt hopped up on endorphins. My cheeks ached from the persistent smile that stretched across my face.

"That was ridiculous!," I spouted. The others concurred.

The following day we packed out our gear and endured the chilly ride back to McCall, all the way coveting the lines we might ski next time.

A special thanks to family and friends for an absolutely fabulous trip. And also a big thanks to Mammut for all their support.

Happy New Year!

Erica Laidlaw

Equinox - A sport climber's guide to a classic desert crack

2009-12-31T15:37:00.000-08:00

After an amazing two-month sport climbing indulgence in Kalymnos, Greece – one of the most exotic limestone crags in the world - our Christmas break absolutely needed to include family. This requirement took us to Southern California, with a one-week stopover in Las Vegas. I’d been to Vegas many times over the years to crimp sandy patina plates at the rolling, dune-like cliffs of Red Rocks, but still had a few climbs of interest to check out – Beyond Reason (13b), Sunsplash (13b/c) and a newly refurbished crag called Secret 13. Despite a snowy start to the week (the loop road was closed!) I managed to tick the first two climbs quickly, but a rushed, late-week hike to Secret 13 revealed a cold, north-facing crag with routes that were still a little dark, sandy and damp. Despite trying the crag classic, You Are What You Is (hard 13b), a one-day send wasn’t in the cards. Next time…

Here's a photo of our 4-year-old daughter Elise surrounded by Cholla cacti in the desert.

A stunning desert sunset...

The week in Southern California followed and we stayed with relatives in sunny Orange County – famous for the beach, but not a rock-climbing Mecca. Regardless, we managed to sneak out for a long and exhausting day to visit the world famous crags of Joshua Tree, about two hours distant. I’m a sport climber and have spent most of my climbing career combing the planet for spectacular overhanging climbing (personal recommendations: Red River Gorge, Gorge du Tarn, Teradettes, Rodellar, Kalymnos), but since I learned to climb in Squamish and have resided there for over 15 years, I’ve done my share of crack climbing. Like most sport climbers, the wider sizes of crack feel horribly difficult and awkward to me, but thin finger cracks allow me to exercise some of my granite-honed face climbing skills and can, at times, provide a great way to branch out into another area of climbing I’m not as familiar with. Knowing I’d only have a single day at J-Tree, my goal thus became clear: the finger-crack splitter, Equinox.

Southern California at Christmas: sunset over Catalina island.

Simon Carter's photo of Figures on a Landscape at J-Tree, courtesy of Climbing.com.

Equinox (5.12c) is a time-honoured classic that sits in a remote corner of the park. As far as I know, it was first TR’d by John Bachar, first redointed by Tony Yaniro and first on-sighted by Jerry Moffat, a serious trio of hard-hitting and influential climbers. The difficulty is moderate by today’s standards, but Joshua Tree ratings are stiff and I was told the quality was second to none. The laser-cut finger crack splits a smooth, slabby dome that is perched majestically on top of a jumble of large boulders – it’s impossible to miss. Research amongst my guiding friends helped me prepare. I was advised on rope length (60 m Mammut Infinity), shoes (high performance edging/smearing) and rack (triples of blue, yellow and orange TCUs as well as singles of the next two sizes). I was also advised about the approach, which involves a 30-minute hike across the desert to an indistinct mound of granite that offers few clues as to the correct destination.

Beautiful desert light...

Our pre-arranged day dawned cloudy and cool, but the forecasted winds were calm which, I’ve been told, is of paramount importance in J-Tree. A quick stop at the visitor’s centre confirmed driving directions; we found the parking area without incident. The approach went well, with a few minor corrections, but the scramble through the boulders to the base of the crack was trickier than expected (stay left), especially with a 4-year-old child on your back! With only one short day to try a classic route, it’s easy to get nervous and I started feeling the pressure to perform. A couple of friends had told me I should try to flash it, but my 40-year-old analytical brain told me that approach might be risky. I knew I’d be very anxious, would put in way too much gear, getting pumped in the process, and likely fall with major gobies preventing a solid redpoint burn for my second try. Also, with no decent warm-ups for miles, I’d be going up cold (literally), further reducing my chances. As it turned out, my intuition was dead on…

A foreshortened view of the crack in poor light.

The cloudy December day was brisk, and when I started up the crack, I felt wooden in my movements. A quick slip found me hanging on the rope and working out some moves, which helped me loosen up, both physically and mentally. Quickly summed up, the climb goes as follows: An 80-degree wall, with awkward, thin-finger locks and laybacks, rears into a gently overhanging sheet of smooth, desert granite, where the locks get solid, but the footholds on the face all but disappear. This is the crux. Powerful pulls with sketchy feet gain sinker finger locks that eventually lead leftward to some thank-God foot chips that allow weight to go back onto your legs. The difficulties slowly ease, but the route remains tricky to the end. My work session didn’t go as well as I’d hoped and I found myself having a hard time remembering what to do – the crack was very unwavering in its appearance. Since time (and skin) was limited, I lowered off, rested and prepared for what would likely be my only redpoint attempt.

This photo is by Warren Hugues and shows a climber at the crux locks.

The wind picked up and the day grew colder. Since it was impossible to run around in the boulder-jumbled landscape to warm up, I decided less rest was prudent. Standing at the base shaking in the gusty wind, I looked up at the crack with trepidation. I pulled onto the wall and started up the techy opening moves. My foot skated off a grim smear about 10 feet off the ground which, although I didn’t fall, caused me to tense up more than I should have. At the steep crux above, I pulled with all my might and managed to sink the first positive lock above, thus opening the path to the summit. The problem was, I tore half the skin off my middle finger in the process and spotted the damage in my peripheral vision as I forged upward – a disconcerting image for sure! Knowing full well I’d not have another chance now, I went into battle mode, always a mistake halfway up a sustained, pumpy climb. I gripped the positive locks like they were smeared with grease, pumping my forearms to the max. I stopped breathing and my vision narrowed, barely allowing me to remember my “sequence” or see the desperately minimal footholds I’d so carefully tried to imprint on my memory. I almost fell off and each move started feeling utterly desperate. I’m sure the knowledge that you’ll never likely return to a classic route can provide an inner strength normally unreachable on more accessible climbs. For me, this knowledge pulled a battle-instinct from my core and I put 110% into the final 20 feet of climbing. Miraculously, I found myself holding the top of the wall with a claw-like grip that wouldn’t relax. Ten minutes worth of composure in the buffeting wind allowed the final moves to the anchor to pass uneventfully. And just like that, the ascent was in the bag.

Those gobies are going to hurt in the shower!

Days later, the wounds in my fingers were still weeping, but we still managed to check out another local climbing spot – Riverside Quarry – between visits with the relatives. This crag is probably the most un-aesthetic cliff I’ve ever climbed at, but the 30-40 m long routes up comfortized edges and jugs were the perfect antidote to the Joshua Tree skin-shredding that occurred days before. The cliff climbed like a turbo outdoor climbing gym with closely packed routes and a great spread of grades. The routes and images of this cliff will likely quickly fade, but the memories of that day in the desert at Joshua Tree will endure, I’m sure.

The quarry...

Relaxing at a So-cal beach with our daughter.

Happy holidays to all!
Marc Bourdon – Squamish, BC

Ski Mountaineering on the Antarctic Peninsula

2009-12-28T12:04:00.000-08:00

I just returned from my second ski mountaineering expedition to the Antarctic Peninsula this season--this time aboard the 70' motor/sail yacht, The Australis. I was guiding a film crew led by Jim Surette of Granite Films who is working on a film project for Chris Davenport of Aspen.

We were 25 days at sea. Each crossing of the Drake Passage (from Ushuaia, Argentina to the Peninsula) took about 4 days. While we did not encounter incredibly rough seas, they were rugged enough to see just about everyone puking as we got tossed about in the small boat. During one especially rough night I was thrown from my bunk. In fact, the only injuries from the trip were bruised bones from getting thrown into walls, across the saloon, and down the stairs.

We had incredible weather and were able to ski many good lines. Some had been skied before by the late Hans Saari and others were first descents in all likely hood. Some of the bigger objectives, like Mt. Shackleton, were impossible due to bad weather. Mt. Shackleton would be a proud objective for a ski descent. The climbing potential in the region is vast. Alex Lowe ticked some lines in the 90's and it seems to be popular among Brits, but the region certainly does not see that much traffic despite the abrupt, steep mountains that abound. I certainly look forward to returning.

Looking south of the bow of the Australis into the Lemaire Channel.

The Europa, another sail yacht we came upon in the area.

Zodiac picking us up after a ski descent of Mt. Mill.

Stian Hagen on Mt. Mill.

-Doug Workman

Black Dike - Cannon Mt New Hampshire Dec 23,2009

2009-12-24T04:54:00.000-08:00

I just finished an 8 day stretch of guide work in the New Hampshire. On the last day Mike and I climbed the Black Dike in cold windy conditions. The route is prize, a classic ice climb in the region. It has a bit of every thing, a long talus approach, 500 foot route, thin and brittle ice, and even a few rock moves. Mike was visiting from Ohio and he wanted to climb at a new area, this climb would be a good memorable route for him.

Mike approaching the base of the route with a 7o meter Mammut Serenity 8.9 mm rope on his pack. This length is needed to gain the prime belay spot on pitch one. The Serenity is an ultra light rope and weight is always a concern.

The Black Dike with Fafnir on the right. The Black Dike is usually climbed in three pitches. P1 to the start on the ice runnel, P2 climbs to the top of the runnel where the route fattens up, and P3 to the forest on the right.

Mike is on the final pitch, getting ready for a few mixed moves up the final groove.

Another cold day on the mountain. To help maintain I have some new Mammut products which are working quite well. My layering system is extensive, I get cold out there. To get ready I start with Mammut's Alpine underwear. The body mapping and multiple fabrics really do work.

Another new item in my system is Mammut's Jasper Zip Pull. Great functional garment with stretch side panels and slick finish. The Mammut Stratus vest is a wonder an its always on my body - very high insulation value. The Cadmium Laser Jacket is an award winner for sure, it is indespensible for alpine climbing in the northeast.

Thanks Mammut for all of these items - each of these items are put to the test day after day and are doing their job - keeping me warm in the New England winters.

Happy Holidays,

Art Mooney

Ouray Ice Climbing and new Mammut Clothing!!!

2009-12-11T05:38:00.000-08:00

Its been a pretty good early ice season this year, and with more snow in the mountains, routes should continue to grow. The Ouray Ice Park is scheduled to open a week early on Dec 12th. Conditions will be fantastic for the Festival starting Jan 8.. Come out and mingle with top climbers around the world, try gear, and get some good instruction.

I've been happily testing out some new pieces from Mammut this Autumn, and have come up with a few new favorites to add to the arsenal. As always the Tripod helmet is the most comfortable and easiest to use helmet on the market, period. Try one on at the fest, you will buy it and wear it everyday.

In the photo below, I'm starting up a somewhat funky first pitch of the classic Skylight climb. Campo Pants and Jasper Pull are a sweet combo for moderate protection and incredible movement.

This is on the Ames Ice Hose. There was a party on the ice already so we took some laps on the 5.9 rock pitch start. I'm sporting the Base Jump Pants (my everyday favorite for ice and alpine) and the new Extreme Baltoro Jacket. This jacket is great. Superb protection from dripping ice and howling wind, and stretches and climbs perfectly. Excellent for backcountry ice climbing and alpinism.

And finally the Direct North Face in South Mineral, another early season mandatory tune up climb. It was a gorgeous day so I went with the venerable Champ pants and Verglas Jacket.

Thanks to Mammut for all the sweet gear! All the SJMG guides are super-psyched on their uniforms this year. We went with the Extreme Baltoro and Stratus Flash pieces this year and they are excellent. Thanks! Thanks! Thanks!

Respectfully Submitted,
Clint Cook
San Juan Mountain Guides
Ouray, CO

Bring me a new year

2009-12-06T03:46:00.000-08:00

2009 is almost gone....first decade of the new century coming to a close and I can't wait for a fresh start in 2010. This past year the forces seemed to have been conspiring against me in all manner of ways to keep me from climbing as much as I normally do. I was out with injury for almost 6 of the 12 months and other things ranging from birth, rain, parenting, peregrines, death, money, work and split finger tips kept me off the rocks way too much.

The latter half of the year I spent an inordinate amount of time working on my superproject up at the highgrade wall in marshfield, VT. I got close....I was gonna do it for sure....then once it finally got cold enough so that I could hold some of the crux grips, we had a good bit of rain and the lack of foliage to absorb the ground water, caused a few incipient seeps to form on a couple of the key holds and I was screwed. But I haven't lost hope and my new plan is to wait until the dead of winter when the ground is completely frozen, so my only battle will be staying warm and not getting snow in my rock shoes.

The last post I wrote showed a video of my friend Matt McCormick taking a crazy fall off his project at the Spiders Web in the Adirondacks. He has since completed it ("Wheelin n Dealin 5.13c R) and thus opened it up for business. Mad props to Matty for such perseverance...sick work. He and I went back over there in October shortly after his success so I could give it a lead attempt. The night before I lay in bed trying and failing not to think about it in order to keep my heart rate down and actually get some sleep. The thing is that frightening. So the next morning we got up to the cliff and warmed up. Then after top roping it to re learn the crux and get the gear dialed with the half blind placements and tenuous body positions I tied in to give it a lead. Up I went through the bottom moves stuck the low crux with a bit of difficulty and got to the big horizontal below the true crux....after slowing my heart rate I took off...highstep, lockoff, pull, gaston, sidepull, fingerlock....sink the small nut, stuff in the tipped out alien and commit. I got right up to the double gastons, the same postition Matt took the cartwheel whipper from, I however hadn't been relaxed enough or climbed all that smoothly and I was PUMPED...I gave a desperate attempt to flip the lower left hand from a gaston to a side pull and fell out into space accelerating rapidly and choking out some sort of high pitched squeel for a nice 30 footer all the way down to the lower roof.
Thankfully the tipped out alien held. I was psyched to have taken the fall as it had been a long time since I had had such an exhilarating climbing experience....I was not so psyched however to see the clouds parting and a big sunny sucker hole opening up and the low autumn sun blasting the cliff and heating up the rock. I resigned to give up for the day, I was due to leave for the red river gorge in Kentucky in a few days and didn't want to split my tips on the razor sharp crimps up in the crux. A while later however a thin veil of clouds came in and obscured the sun as well as my excuse for not wanting to try again....shit....so, I sacked up, tied in, climbed a little smoother, ended up placing one of the pieces of gear from a different position on the fly saving myself a bit of energy and got through the crux by the skin of my teeth. The last 40 feet of 5.11 over shit gear kept me at redline pump physically as well as mentally for if any holds were to break and you fell on the shitty rps and they pulled you would go to the ground. I clipped the anchor feeling totally exhausted but super stoked. Definitely one of the raddest rock climbs in the northeast. Check out MattMcCormickClimbing.blogspot.com to see a little video he put together of his attempts and redpoint of Wheelin n Dealin 5.13c R.

The next week I headed down to Kentucky for the seasonal dose of steep sandstone. First off I had to finish up a route at the Drive-by crag that I'd tried last spring. Bolted by Joe Kinder last fall and FA'd by a world class egomaniac german dude in the spring, "SuperCharger" (sandbag 5.13d) is a great addition to the wealth of climbing down at the Red. It has rad compression style boulder problems and is true power endurance on super fun pinches and slopers. Prior to the coming to the Red I'd been setting boulder problems for a comp and trying my super power oriented project at the Marshfield and my endurance was lacking. I felt like I spent most of my trip getting in shape for the Red and then right before leaving managed to send "SuperCharger" and "Gods Own Stone" 5.14a. Here is a picture of some dude on Gods Own right in the crux on some meager sloping half pad dishes. Notice he's rocking the Mica T shirt. My favorite indestructible mammut t shirt.
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This route is another somewhat atypical route for the Red. Relatively short, and up to the crux its all nails down crimping so that when you fall off you aren't even pumped, practically unheard of for the Red. There is also some pretty precise foot work on thin edges smears and pockets...also a rarity down there. I was super psyched with the performance of the Mammut Samurai's on this route, this shoe is true ninja footwear. On par with sportivas testarossa (which it ought to be given it was designed by the same guy famed Scarpa shoe designer Heinz Mariacher)
Anyway great lessons in patience and understanding this past year and I'm psyched to stay healthy and try to go to the winter trade show in SLC, compete in the sport climbing nationals, and get a bit of craggin in southern utah next month.

stay safe and healthy ya'll
Peter Kamitses
Burlington, Vermont

Stick Season Almost Over!!!

2009-12-01T16:33:00.000-08:00

It's December 1st and the snow is on it's way. Actually, I spent all weekend trudging through knee deep snow up in Norton, VT chasing the elusive white tale deer. No luck but my legs sure did get a pre-season workout!!! Things are ramping up for the upcoming ski season. Days are getting shorter and nights are getting colder. The wood stoves are warming their belly's and the electric bills are bumping up. Skiers and snowboarders are all waiting impatiently for the areas and backcountry to fill in so they can ride their prized wood stick's. This time of year is best for comfort food, micro-brew's, and the new ski flicks. Be sure to check out Meathead Films new movie "Wild Stallions". It's a fun combination of jibbing, kickers, and BC trips filmed all over the East Coast. I've been working with these boys for around 8 years now and it never gets old. Hope everyone makes it through stick season without totally freaking out. Snow will be here in no time. I'm off to bring in a few more cord of wood and tune up my rock skis.
Tony Rossi

What's Carolyn been up to...

2009-11-24T12:24:00.000-08:00

40th - my 40th year on the planet has been great; of course I have to thank Mammut for their continued support. I had numerous firsts; my first 5.12 traditional ascent in the Sandia Wilderness (my back yard) Autumn Ivy at 10,000ft; many firsts in "the Compound" my own private training facility;
Deadlift:260#
Overhead Squat 95#
Pull ups: 22 (max set)
TGU: 55lbs
Snatch 75#
On the trail: "River to Crest" (18.5miles[9miles bike, 9.5 run/snowshoe], 6000' elevation gain): 3hrs 15min winter.
I had two amazing ski trips this spring; John and I went to Heli Ski out of Terrance BC with Northern Escapes; then followed that up with a 12-day Ski Mountaineering trip in the Ortler/Cevedale region of Italy; 100,000 vertical (up & down) mostly self propelled.
And I can't forget my own unstoppable program in it's 6th season "Climb like a Girl"; women's climbing seminars.

As always I continue to enjoy my work as a guide and athlete trainer; anytime I am not working in the mountains or training in my studio I am out with friends climbing, skiing, mtn biking, racing and enjoying my life.

As I move closer to my 41st year I am laying the foundation for more firsts and fun. I will keep you all posted. As always you can find out what I am up to by visiting; www.athenafit.com or www.suntoucher.com.

All my best,

Carolyn Parker

Kalymnos: Conditions Update

2009-11-23T23:56:00.001-08:00

We’re nearing the end of our stay in Kalymnos and it’s been a wonderful trip. Since many people ask when is the best time to come to Kalymnos to climb, I thought I’d share my experiences. I’ve now been here during the months of March, October and November and will describe the pros and cons to each month that I’ve personally experienced. And before I forget, the 80 m Mammut Infinity I brought is indispensable here. A long cord is a must!

March (and early April): Our first trip to the island was four years ago in the early spring. We had a fantastic time and, since we’d not been here before, had lots of climbs to try. The island was very peaceful and in full bloom after a stormy winter. There were wildflowers on the slopes below the cliffs and the air was heavy with the fragrance of wild herbs. We had our pick of accommodation and received an early season discount on a beautiful suite, but most of the local businesses were still closed (we had to drive to Pothia for groceries). As far as I was concerned, there were only two downsides to coming at this time: seepage on the cliffs and a sea that was too cold for enjoyable swimming. With so many routes to choose from, the seepage didn’t stop us from having a great and productive two weeks (we did lots of classics), but we never set foot in the water – it was just too chilly.

October: Since everyone seems to come here in October, we thought we’d follow the herd and plan the first half of our current trip for that month. Although the weather was gorgeous and hot when we arrived, the conditions were very poor for serious climbing. It was extremely hot and humid for the first three weeks of the month with barely a single breezy day for relief – I felt like I was climbing in Squamish in a July heat wave. Maybe this was unusual, I don’t know, but it didn’t stop hundreds of climbers from flocking to the cliffs each day. It was seriously crowded and we waited in line many days to try a single popular route, even at remote locations like the Sikati Cave. The town was crowded and noisy, but there was a distinct feeling of excitement amongst those vacationing here, and the beach conditions were perfect. The Aegean Sea was wonderfully warm and we swam and snorkeled daily. The beaches were moderately crowded, but with transportation it was easy to get away from the “hotspots” and find seclusion. In summary, I’d say that if the beach aspect of your vacation is as important as the climbing, October is likely your best bet.

Pictures of our 3-year-old daughter climbing at Odyssey. Kalymnos is very family friendly!

November: On November 1st, a switch was flipped in Kalymnos. The crowds literally disappeared and the storms rolled in signaling an end to the summer-like weather. We had a week of on-and-off rain, but it never really stopped us from climbing. The cliffs dried fast - if it rained one day, we’d rest and climb the next. And then it cleared up. The last three weeks of the month have been almost perfect rock climbing conditions. The cliffs are not seeping, the winds are from the north (low humidity) and the temperatures are perfect. It’s chilly in the shade (bring your parka) and warm in the sun, but not hot. In fact, if you were so inclined, you could climb in the sun without suffering afterward from moderate heat stroke. Swimming is definitely still do-able, but the water is on the brisk side - for long snorkeling sessions, I’d recommend a neoprene “farmer john”. Many of the local businesses have closed and the beaches are practically deserted. The solitude and slower pace have been a wonderful “come down” from the craziness of October. In summary, if your real priority in coming here is the climbing, I’d say November is your best bet, although the likelihood of unsettled weather is probably higher in a typical year.

Hopefully this helps anyone planning a future vacation. We’ve ticked some great routes here (mostly in November) and all are listed on our 8a nu pages. Enjoy the end of fall and the start of winter!

Marc Bourdon - Squamish, BC

2009-11-19T10:04:00.000-08:00

I just got back from the Antarctic Peninsula where I was ski guiding on Doug Stoup's Ice Axe Expeditions ski cruise. It was the first trip of it's kind and an amazing one at that. We were on a 180' boat with motivated skiers. Our crossing of the Drake Passage, known to be some of the roughest seas in the world, were pretty benign. We did have one day of 20' swell--all day long plates were crashing in the dinning room while we all tried to avoid sea sickness by doping on dramaminne.

On the Peninsula, we had outstanding weather--7 days of sun. The skiing conditions were usually a few inches of soft snow over firm snow. The terrain was endless.

In two days I head back to the Peninsula. This time on a 70' sailboat to help a film crew capture footage of Stian Hagen and Chris Davenport.

Praying for a Drake Lake!

Doug Workman

2009 Mammut AMGA scholarship

2009-11-15T12:03:00.000-08:00

Mammut offers a full tuition scholarship for an AMGA course or exam, and in 2009 I was the recipient of this scholarship. In my application for this scholarship I wrote about how working through the AMGA process and my climbing in preparation for courses and exams has changed my perspective on climbing, both personally and professionally. So when I was informed of my selection for the Mammut scholarship I decided this was an opportunity for me to continue down the path of new perspectives by taking a 6 week climbing trip to Europe.
After my work guiding in Alaska finished for the season we headed for Chamonix France, our base camp for the next six weeks. My goals for theses six weeks were; To climb some of the commonly guided routes in the Alps, and to do some challenging routes as well.
With these goals in mind we started out our first ten days by following around our friend Tim Connelly and his client as they did a custom Alps classics extravaganza. On day 1 we rode the Aiguille du Midi tram to its top, descended and climbed across the Vallee Blanche to do a super fun ridge climb on the Aiguille de Entreves.

The following morning we headed for Zermatt and up the tram cars to the Hornli hut at the foot of the Matterhorn. Though not technically difficult, climbing the Hornli ridge was extremely educational. This is 4000 feet of 4th and 5th class climbing with a 100 or more people climbing it on a given day. The Majority of these folks are being guided so certain style of guiding using stanchions drilled into the rock for belaying and as protection has been employed to move all these people up and down the mountain safely and efficiently. Not only that, but it was a lot of fun.

We had hoped to give the Mettelleggi ridge on the Eiger a go next, but the weather wasn't fully cooperating so we jumped in a car and headed to Italy for some sport climbing instead. We climbed a few different places but the most unique was our excursion on the Mirror de Argentine, where we did a nearly 2000 foot slab climb with some amazing view's of the Italian Alps.
Once the weather improved we returned to Chamonix and climbed the traverse route on Mont Blanc. This routes is a fun moderate snow climb that climbs and traverses below the summits of Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mount Modit and finally to the summit of the Matterhorn itself. After returning from the summit one must climb a half hour or so back up to the Aiguille du Midi, so on a challenge we decided to instead climb the Cosmiques arrete to the tram instead of the standard snow ridge. What a great way to end the day, climbing a very classic moderate rock ridge directly onto the observation deck of the Aiguille du Midi Tram.
The next week was spent exploring the rock routes on the peaks on the opposite side of the Valley from Mont Blanc. There is an amazing amount of climbable rock easily accessed by trams and chairlifts. We climbed the East Face of Brevent, the Tour des Croches, the Floria and Index to name a few.

Wanting to experience as many different areas as possible we decided to check out the climbing around the Enveres hut. We took the Mer de Glace railway, and then followed the trail of ladders down the steep slabs, up the glacier to more ladders which led us to the Envers hut.

This area is full of long rock routes up beautiful granite, this photo was taken on a route called children of the sun.

Our time in Europe was running out, so we decided it was time for some bigger routes and set our sites on the Walker Spur of the grand Jorasses. This is a classic route with some difficult climbing on rock, ice and mixed terrrain. we had a great time climbing as two teams of two. My friends Dylan Taylor and Tim Connelly were on one rope, and my wife Winslow were on a second rope. Conditions were great until it was time to bivy. Four of us shared a 3'x4' ledge hunkered down under two rescue tarps as a hail and lightening storm raged all around. We woke to white-out snowy conditions faced with a 9000' technical descent. What an adventure.

Two days later we concluded or trip with a climb of another classic the Gervasutti Pillar, another long rock, ice and mixed route on perfect golden granite.

This trip prepered me very well for My AMGA Alpine Course, which I successfully completed making me an IFMGA aspirant. I thank Mammut very much for the support.

Todd Passey

Castleton Tower & Indian Creek

2009-11-05T05:02:00.000-08:00

The Moab area is one of my favorite places to climb anywhere. Terry and I traveled from NH to Utah to attend the AMGA's annual meeting. The meeting has technical and board meetings which work on issues such as access, member benefits, and guide education to name a few. There are plenty of fun events - the guide olympics - a variety of technical clinics - the silent gear auction and a desert requirement Jeff Unger and Andres Marin led an Offwidth Clinic. Guest speaker Jack Tackle had a great slide show on his ascents in Alaska and around the world. This years meeting was attended by many and next years should be even bigger as its scheduled to be in Boulder, Colorado.

There is always time to get out and enjoy the climbing. The first photos are of our climb of the Kor Ingals Route on Castleton Tower. The day started out warm and sunny then turned to cold and windy. Mammuts Microlayer Limited Edition Wind jacket and Outline Jacket provided us the needed wind break and kept us warm. These are two lightweight products that can be easily stowed in a small pack. I chose the 60meter Twilight 7.5mm Twin Ropes for this climb. This rope system is light, easier to use than the half ropes, and I had the benefit was of full length rappels. I recommend these ropes for a party of two on rock and ice routes with a technical descent.

The other photos are of the amazing Indian Creek area. We spent a few days here climbing splitter cracks and varnished corners on the Scarface Wall and Battle of the Bulge Buttress. No where in the US are one pitch routes more gear intensive. Its all cams for protection. You may need six or more of one size to protect the longer classic lines. This trip was much to short but it renewed my desire to climb in the desert. I am starting my plans for a 2010 trip.

This may have been my last rock trip of the season. Cold and snow is on the way in NH. It could be time to sharpen up the crampons and ice tools.

Art Mooney

RideGuide TV - Mt. Biking and Climbing near Sun Valley

2009-11-02T12:55:00.000-08:00

I had a great time filming again with the RideGuide TV. Here is some mountain biking and climbing action from around the Sun Valley, Idaho area.

Bring on Winter.......Enjoy!
Danny Irie Walton

http://rideguidebike.mobilerider.com/flash/player/index.php?vendor_id=891&video_id=22288

2009-10-30T05:52:00.000-07:00

The Honeymoon is Over (and was great!)

Amy and I just got back from our honeymoon a couple of weeks ago and what a great time it was. We checked out Vancouver (one of the coolest cities of all time) and then headed up into the mountains. We climbed several perfect and completely dry days in Squamish and even hit up the world famous downhill mountain bike park in Whistler. For two weeks we had absolutely perfect weather and managed to see some of the most beautiful places we have been so far. Climbing the Black Tusk in Garibaldi Provincial Park was a highlight....although not technically difficult, it was one of the prettiest views I have ever seen. The climbing in Squamish was actually a lot like here in North Carolina with maybe a few more splitters than we have. All in all it was an amazing experience and a perfect way to celebrate our marriage. We will definitely be back. As for the gear we used, I pretty much lived in the new Ultimate hoody the entire trip. If you haven't picked one of these up yet, you should! And of course, the Infinity is still my favorite rope of all time- the perfect weight, size for everyday abuse. So, if you haven't made it up there yet, put Squamish on your list and try to go in the Fall when you are likely to have good weather.

Mid-life Chrysalis

2009-10-17T15:38:00.000-07:00

Mid-life Chrysalis
by John Atkinson
Mammut Ambassador

Twenty years ago, if you asked me how I thought I'd spend my fortieth birthday, there is no way I would have predicted dirt-jumping and downhill mountain biking to celebrate.

And yet, it was exactly how I wanted to spend it.

(all bike images by Peter Wadsworth)

Mountain biking has long been a passion, but downhill and bigger air were not part of my repetorie until fairly recently.

In a few short seasons though, I've started doing things I never thought possible for me. My addictions to gravity, adrenaline and endorphins have grown too.

Through a combination of hanging with better riders and coaching lots of beginners through the techniques, my skills have developed.
Old dogs can learn new tricks ... not that I'm old yet.

So what does all this have to do with Mammut? Well, to start, mountain biking in Vermont is often cool and nothing keeps me more comfortable than Mammut's base layers.

They're stretchy enough for armor, form-fitting enough for good wicking, durable enough for ripping through the blackberry patches. The new wool mixes look even better.

I've got enough to worry about, staying on the line and flowing down the hill. All the gear has to work.

Trail-building is another addiction that has only grown over the years and M ammut's Nirvana backpack is the absolute best pack I've ever used. Believe me, carrying a rake, pulaski, mcleod, rock bar, handsaw, loppers, water, food, extra clothes, medical and repair kit, and sometimes chainsaw chaps and a protective helmet will test any pack.

All the strapping options allow for tremendous versatility, the big ice axe loops actually fit the tools and I swear it makes 50 pounds feel like 30 pounds. ;)

A friend told me 40 is the new 28. I am a big fan of this "new math." Alright!

Fall is winding down here in Vermont's Mad River Valley, although this particular season has been out-of-the-world gorgeous, with vibrant leaf colors and a nice coating of mountain snow to really set off the displays.

We were busy at Sugarbush right through Columbus weekend, with Adventure camps and bike clinics. Even in the cold rain, the kids had a great time. Check out the slackline and our nature scavenger hunt!

The snow prompted thoughts of turns, which my wife and I made a reality as soon as we could.
Early season skiing on the East Coast is best enjoyed on upper elevation, grassy, low-angle slopes, like the kind you might find at Mad River Glen.

Snow in October doesn't usually last more than a few hours, but this round has continued to hang on for more than a week.

No sense wasting time though. Freshies in the foliage are pretty fine.

Just in case you were wondering, the Nirvana excels as a winter mountain pack too.

Sometimes the beauty just takes your breath away.

Ski hitchhikers on RT 17.

A few views of Sugarbush.

So, turning forty may not be what it used to be, but it's still a milestone for many of us. Happily, I have rededicated my life to the mountains and hope for at least forty more excellent years of gravity grooving, smiling in the rain, and relishing the sun and snow.

Happy fall!

p.s. I am convinced that mountain biking is the single best cross-over sport to skiing and snowboarding. The movements, focus and fun are almost exactly the same. Gravity still works in the summer. Here's something to consider, my big bike has essentially bottomless suspension. Imagine riding bottomless powder year-round. Mmmm, okay.

Kalymnos!

2009-10-13T03:43:00.001-07:00

We’ve been in Kalymos for about two weeks now and the climbing is ridiculous. It’s so good that it’s hard to imagine sport climbing getting much better, and the Grande Grotta has some of the longest, steepest routes I've ever done. The extension pitches range from 50 to 55 m and the climbing is extremely steep. Although you can walk to a number of the best cliffs from the town of Massouri, it seems as though having some form of transportation really opens up the options. We rented a car today for the remainder of our stay and look forward to touring the island and visiting some outlying cliffs. Crowding here in October is a bit of a problem, but it's understandable why everyone comes at this time. The water is still warm for swimming and the cliffs are starting to cool off and offer decent conditions. Plus, there is very little seepage in the tufas because of the timing at the end of the dry summer.

The Grande Grotta.

Sector Arhi.

There are lots of cats around here...

Ivy (7b) in the Grande Grotta.

Aegealis (7c) in the Grande Grotta. One of the best routes in the cave!

DNA (7a+)

The incredible Trella (7a) on the right side of the Grande Grotta cave.

Church above the port city of Pothia.

Climb at Odyssey sector at sunset.

Beach on the island of Telendos.

Climbing-wise, so far I’ve sent two monster routes in the Grande Grotta cave, Super Priapos and DNA Extension (both 8a+). I brought an 80m Mammut Infinity rope and this sure is coming in handy for cleaning draws and lowering off the big cave routes. I’d highly recommend investing in a long rope before coming here, especially if you have designs on the longer pitches. I’d also recommend bringing between 30 and 40 quickdraws. You heard me right. Some of the routes are between 20-28 quickdraws long, and if you leave your draws on a project, you’ll still need at least 12 to climb elsewhere. Keep this in mind. Also, long slings are very useful for directing your rope around tufas and stalactites. Think trad climbing. I’d bring between 6 and 12, depending on whether or not you want to try the monster routes. Regardless, leave the short quickdraw slings at home. Bring medium to long quickdraw slings, at the very least.

The resident goat at the Grande Grotta.

Ivy (7b) at the Grande Grotta.

Swimming near the Grande Grotta.

Hari Kari (6b) at Spartacus sector.

Fish market in Pothia.

Church above Pothia.

Don't touch my Willy (13c) at sector Arhi.

Sunset over Telendos.

We are waiting for the conditions to cool off a bit before getting on the more fingery routes at the other crags. For now, we are searching for routes with largish holds that allow upward progress even when bathed with sweat!

Marc B

Alternative Activities in Rodellar

2009-10-11T07:16:00.000-07:00

Alternative Activities in Rodellar:

Christine is sad m'puz she stabbed her thumb wif a big, mean, stinky-pants knife and couldn’t climb for four days… and then sad again m’puz a muscle in her back made a crunchy boo-boo.

I arrived in Rodellar about 1.5 weeks ago now, and was absolutely amazed… amazed by the weather (very un-Mallorcan: not raining), amazed by the climbing (cave after cave of steep, beautiful limestone in an beautiful, idyllic canyon). I was also pleased to check into the Kalandraka Refugio- which, unlike my last place of residence, has bathrooms, running water, electricity (not to be mixed with the running water), beds, and roofs. What’s up. And finally, it was good, as always, to meet the nice, new faces here and see several of the old, familiar faces from trips previous, including Ceuse.

If you haven’t been to Rodellar, know this: it’s like Disney Land for climbers. The deep canyon in which all the crags sit, is a twisty-turny gorge with stacks of luscious orange- and blue-streaked caves of all aspects and sizes. A spring-fed river meanders through the bottom and well-worn foot paths cross it here and there on lilly-pad-like stepping stones. There are caves up high, caves down low. Caves in the sun, caves in the shade. Orange rock, white rock, blue rock, grey rock. Walls with big jugs, and walls with more tufas than you’ve ever seen in your life. Some techy climbs, but heaps and heaps of steep lines. Thousands and thousands of bolts and an often a pleasant breeze. Mild approaches –just enough to get the blood flowing a bit, yet not so much as to prohibit two- and three-crag days. There are arches and climbs going straight up the underbellies of these natural windows. 40-meter routes and 15-meter routes. Basically, paradise.

Especially after Mallorca’s rain (and even after the vertical tech-climbing of Ceuse), I was incredibly ready to soak this up! Mostly excellent weather (shirtless climbing and puffy-jacket belaying), an unending list of new routes, and such physical climbing… Oh my! After the first few days, I was so sore from head-to-toe that it was difficult to walk or even sit properly. Though the routes here are supposed to be softly rated, I found them to be, ehh, ehm, pretty tough, as I was completely unaccustomed to such steepness. But I was soooo ready to become accustomed to it! I could feel fitness soaking into my body every day. I was getting nervous that I might rip my clothes if I accidentally flexed.

And then… four climbing days later: STAB! Without going into the whole story, let’s just say that I managed to stab through the pad of my thumb (entrance and exit holes) with a very sharp knife. So. Understanding that it needed time to heal properly (lest it become a never-ending infection), I took four days off. Ok. Good. It actually healed in enough in this time to climb again. Check.

But then 1.5 climbing days later: CRUNCH! Doing an (apparently strenuous) high-step/gaston move, a muscle in my lower back/ ribs decided to seize up/ pull/ hurt and burn a lot. So. Now I’m waiting for it to tell me whether to stay here and wait it out, or to go home and let it heal. Meanwhile, I’m occupying myself with (gasp!) work and other activities such as blog-writing and hiking… a friend and I walked a few hours to a ghost town (Otin) the other day. I’ve also been hiking back and forth to a PT’s office… but, as things go in

Spain

, he’s never really around during the times we agreed to meet. But that’s OK.

So, I suppose I’ll know in a few days whether I’ll be able to climb again soon, or whether I should take the next few weeks to get myself back to North America, take care of “life” there, and get back on the road (Southern Utah, Hueco, El Salto). All in all, not bad choices… but I’m really hoping to get to climb more in Rodellar than just 5.5 days.

More later...

-Christine Balaz

Hola Mallorca (aka: probably the worst title possible.)

2009-10-02T07:51:00.000-07:00

ANYWAY. MALLORCA IS AN ISLAND IN SPAIN, popular among German urlauber (drunk on board Berlin Air flight # 9414) for its temperate waters and beautiful beaches. It is also famous among climbers round-the-world for its temperate waters, beautiful beaches, and freaking beautiful, overhanging, seaside limestone cliffs. In recent years, deepwater soloing (or “psychobloc” in European) has become an increasingly popular, yet still exotic, style of rock climbing whereby climbers ascend seaside routes directly over the water, without ropes or any means of protection other than the deep sea below.

Having never properly engaged in psychobloc before, and because of a number of other contributing factors, I decided my next step in this Euro-journey would be Mallorca.

I arrived at Palma Airport (via Nice, Dusseldorf) with Ceuse friends, Alex and Chris, on the night of September 10. Here we were retrieved by a gracious, car-driving friend. I aimed to meet back up with my Australian friend, Chicko… somewhere on the island. According to Chicko,

“from Porto Cristo you can catch a cab to Cala Varques or hitch. About 8 ks out of porto cristo in the dirrrection of cales de Mellorca you will come across a house that looks like a castle (on the left) about 40 mts before the house is a dirt road at the end of the dirt road is a steel gate, through the gate and follow the path. at the beach on the right in the pine trees is me and a smile.”

Luckily, one of Alex’s friends knew what this meant (because I definitely did not), and they dropped me off —right at the steel gate— the next day, after inviting me to crash with them for a night and (thank you!) taking me to the grocery store for food and water.

I wielded all of my unwieldy crap the 10 minutes down this aforementioned path to a beachside campsite in two trips, spoke immediately with someone in the campsite who knew Chicko, and found him playing in the ocean shortly thereafter.

The next few days we spent in sunny paradise, deepwater soloing and generally absorbing the Spanish maritime paradise. A contributing factor to the utopian aura of the place is definitely the campsite –we sleep in a breezy pine forest immediately above a turquoise cove and white sand beach. Also, the majority population of this campsite is… (surprise) Spanish!

This (being a minority tourist among Spanish locals) has been a genuine treat, as, unlike my last time in Spain (El Chorro, December 2008), I’ve actually been immersed in the language, culture (albeit in the form of dirtbagging on the beach), and the sharing of food, jokes, etc. I've even been getting Spanish lessons in earnest from a Uruguayan here. With paper and pens and an English-Spanish dictionary.

All temperate waters, sunshine, and tropical beaches aside, the last few days have been, eh… a bit trying because, though the area is beautiful and, though it statistically never rains here in the summer, it has, in fact, been raining hard… off and on for the last four days. Which is less-than-ideal on a steeply-sloping campsite that easily becomes a river of mud and pine needles, soggy food bits and other rubbish. An aging tent (with large, new hole in the rain fly), and sub-tent river have severely dampened nearly all of my belongings, and the persistent precipitation has not allowed for any drying of these… Needless to say, everyone else in camp is suffering under the same dampness and, though solidarity is high, morale is generally low.

On the bright side: we have enjoyed a staple of grace from newly-made, local friends and acquaintances. A shower one day and a dry couch one night have made a world of difference in the otherwise clammy mud bog of the last four days.

Climbing-wise: I’m not there yet. I’ve had a high rate of painful falls into the water. Odd belly- and face-flops, thigh slaps, wind-knocked-out-of-me’s, sinus blasts, etc, etc… are making it very difficult for me to properly wrap my brain around this particular style of climbing... needless to say, four days of off-and-on rain haven’t eased this transition for a number of factors (wet rocks, chilly weather, and sometimes simply unclimbable conditions). But I’m convinced that I’m just slow in getting used to it. So… whenever the weather clears, I’ll keep chipping away at this problem. Given deepwater soloing’s popularity, it can’t be all that bad. I think the responsibility is with me and that I’m just an awkwardly-falling, high-surface-area wuss.

But anyway. I definitely can’t complain, though I do look forward to hitting my stride again with climbing (in terms of mentality and volume), and hope I can get some of it done soon.

Next stop: Rodellar!

-Christine Balaz

Pitches with Pros!

2009-09-25T13:23:00.001-07:00

Last weekend I finally connected with Paul Nunez, winner of Mammut's "Pitches with Pros" contest. Paul turned out to be a very cool guy. Originally from Columbia, Paul is now getting his Doctorate in Astrophysics from the University of Utah in S.L.C. Despite being such a smart guy, Paul was willing to meet me for an adventure in the Black Canyon. For being such a good sport, I hooked him up with a new Mammut Tripod helmet to insure that he'd be just as smart and the end of the trip as he was at the start. We met at the Black Canyon's North Rim Campground, and had a great two days of climbing, managing the Canyon classics "Comic Relief" (III 5.11-), and "Lost Cities" (IV 5.12-), despite some pesky showers on Sunday. Thanks for great weekend Paul, and I hope to see you back in the Black soon!

Hats off to Mammut for running this raffle contest to benefit Big City Mountaineers--a non-profit organization that gets troubled youth out into the mountains. So often as climbers it's all about chasing our own dreams and aspirations, so it was really nice to help out a worthy cause,. I hope I can be involved with similar fundraisers in the future.

In other news...Whit Magro and I are off to Yosemite for the first two weeks of October. Very excited to get back to the Valley after being away for six years! I recently sent my Independence Pass Project at 5.13+. Turned out to be a very cool route, and I was excited to finish it before the winter snows start falling. And last but not least, Erinn and I finally got married two weeks ago!

Hope you're all enjoying the great temps of fall, and sending all your pesky summer projects!

Best Wishes,
Josh

8 a.m. wake up call

2009-09-17T11:55:00.000-07:00

What were you doing at 8 a.m. this morning??

I'll be honest, we're not blessed with the best stone here in Eastern Idaho! So new routing often requires a LOT of cleaning. Usually it's dirt filled cracks or lots of loose small rocks, but when you get something like this, you can't help but grin ear to ear when something that big is reacted upon by gravity!

I was a bit nervous the other day when working on a new route, and given the fact that there is indeed a road just below the cliff, i wanted a few friends out there to make sure there wasn't any traffic headed up or down the road. Thank heavens as it left a 2' deep 4' wide hole smack dab in the center of the gravel road. Don't worry, we filled it in on our way home.

Volume helps on this one. The explosion at the end is awesome. Enjoy!

Dean Lords - Eastern Idaho

Leaves are Changing

2009-09-11T05:50:00.000-07:00

After a good start to the Summer, with a first ascent at the New River Gorge and another at the local Parkway crag, the weather Gods got angry and gave us a good old fashioned swampy Summer. With thunderstorms almost every day keeping my projects wet, I hopped on my mountain bike and rock rings to start training. I've got to say that taking a break from climbing 4-5 days a week must have been good for my psyche because now that Fall is hinting at a return, I am more excited than ever to get on the stone. On a side note, I am getting married next week! Like planning for an expedition, I am ready to get this thing on! Wish me (and mostly my fiance Amy) luck. For our honeymoon, we'll be headed up to Squamish to do some climbing and riding. Definitely looking forward to that.

My beautiful wife to be, Amy.

-Brian Williams

Change Of Pace...

2009-09-09T10:14:00.000-07:00

While my first love will always be long routes in the mountains and splitter cracks in the desert, it does a climber good to switch it up a little now and again. After a HOT summer in Salt Lake City, fall is upon us and it’s time to get psyched! I have some projects for the fall that will require a little more power than I’ve currently got, so I’ve been spending tons of time at Wild Iris outside of Lander in Wyoming. An idyllic camping scene, bullet proof pocketed stone, and the Wyoming wind to keep the temps in check makes for a truly perfect place to climb. A couple of shots from my latest trip:

A very ripped Jess Taverna throwing down on “Rising From the Planes”

A true master of all trades. The ever psyched and talented Will Mayo getting after it

My partner in crime for my latest Alaska trip, Rick Vance

Andreas Schmidt onsighting my project

The best part of all: a big ol’ pan of bacon. There’s just something special about drinking beer and eating bacon after a long day of pocket pulling

Cheers,

Chris Thomas

The Cartwheel Whipper

2009-09-08T12:48:00.000-07:00

After another round of debilitating nerve pain radiating from my upper back down my right arm, resulting in almost 2 months of no climbing this summer, I finally am back in the game... I have been getting back in shape for the last few weeks and getting psyched to get back on old projects when the weather gets cold enough. Recently I have gone over to the Spiders Web in the Adirondacks to check out my friend Matt McCormicks project that he has been working on a bunch this summer. Its an amazing all gear protected thin crack that will probably check in at 5.13c R when it gets completed. It has some pretty good gear and some mediocre gear like tiny rp's that will hold a down pull but not any kind of outward force, and some super strenuous technical moves on some of the worst foot holds I've ever had to put my faith into....very scary to say the least. I have top roped on it a few times and am psyched to give it a lead once Matt sends it.

Here is a video I shot of him on his closest redpoint attempt yet....two moves from a good hold that marks the end of the crux he takes this nasty fall ....even though the rope wasn't behind his leg when he was climbing, his left foot blows and he spins away from the rock and ends up with the rope all the way up between his crotch while he falls facing away from the cliff for a good thirty footer.....luckily the gear held and he wasn't hurt...much.... though he didn't hit his head, this is a prime example of a good reason to always wear a helmet.

Enjoy the audio (sorry for the profanity) of me involuntarily telling him to "watch it" as he is in mid air....as if to say..."hey don't do that...it doesn't look safe"...then the sound of his back slapping the rock...then my reactionary moan.

Be safe everyone.

Enjoy the upcoming fall and the crispy temps.

Peter Kamitses

Burlington, Vt

Chasing Shade

2009-08-30T18:16:00.000-07:00

I spent a few days at the City of Rocks, Idaho with Heather and a few friends. We climbed a lot of fun crack routes and i taught my friend Jennilyn the art of jamming. The highlight of the trip was Jennilyn's first gear lead on one of my favorite City routes, Heartbreaker 5.10d. She lead the route in fine style. Given the fact that Jennilyn's hardest sport redpoint is 5.11a and only a handful of sport lead climbs on routes 5.10 and under, her one hang ascent of Heartbreaker was motivating to say the least!

Heather Lords on the classic jam crack, Fred Rasmussen

Jennilyn jammin' Heartbreaker 5.10d

Hearbreaker 5.10d

Dean Lords - East Idaho

Rifle, Colorado

2009-08-28T09:45:00.000-07:00

We're in Rifle, the land of beta-intensive limestone sport climbing, and having a blast. Although the climbing here is incredibly tricky, it's also a ton of fun and we are tuning up for our fall trip to Kalymnos, Greece! We've been somewhat surprised at the lack of road-tripping climbers here - the majority of people we run into are from various parts of Colorado that are not too distant. However, for limestone sport climbing, Rifle is hard to beat...and it's a great destination in the summer as the canyon has good morning shade and comfortable camping. Enjoy!

The local landscape down below the canyon.

The Anti-Phil wall. This is some of the best stone in the canyon.

The wildflowers around here are amazing.

If you look really closely, you can see a climber on "Hang 'em Higher" (5.12c) at the Project Wall.

Our 3-year-old daughter enjoying the morning shade at the Project Wall.

A climber redpoints "The Path" (5.13c) at The Arsenal.

We participated in the annual Rifle clean-up day and party. It was fun to network with the locals and give something back to an area we've enjoyed. Here's a bunch of workers building a new bridge across the creek beside the Project Wall. That's cold water!!!

The party tent in the campground. There were lots of raffle prizes and the locals raised over $600 for bolt replacement in the park. Nice job!

On a completely unrelated note, this is a photo of a route I redpointed before leaving for Rifle. It's a direct start to the Squamish "headpoint" testpiece Sixty-Nine (5.13b). I worked it last summer and again for about 3 weeks this summer before sending. The direct start (5.13c) links the opening moves of the route Leviticus with the main crack on Sixty-Nine via a very thin and bouldery seam. This wall holds some of Squamish best and hardest single pitch gear climbs, but these are typically approached using a "headpoint" style. None have received serious on-sight attempts...yet. Click on the image for a larger picture.

Marc Bourdon - Squamish, BC