Kokoda Spirit Blog

Australian Spirit

2009-04-30T20:56:00.000+10:00

Australian Spirit Lives on the Kokoda Track.

Not so long ago our national characteristics were clearly identifiable in most Australians and our Diggers. Courage, endurance, mateship, sacrifice, ingenuity, integrity, teamwork, resilience and the like. Clearly these traits didn’t emerge overnight. They were honed by the challenges our forebears faced in surviving in our remarkable country, with its vast distances, harsh terrain and unpredictable climate. Australians in almost every sector overcame obstacles to build our Nation with a practical and pragmatic approach built up over long periods of hardship. The spirit needed to survive and grow was constantly tested. It produced generations of Australians capable of heroic struggles in their daily lives.

The recent tragic deaths on the Kokoda Track are a stark reminder of the enormous physical, mental and spiritual challenge that the Kokoda Track is to those that challenge this Australian and PNG Icon. Their sad loss of these adventurers is felt by the thousands of Australians that have trekked the Kokoda Track and is devastating for their family, friends and associates and a reminder of how precious life is. They undertook the challenge of Kokoda in the true Australian spirit and undertook one of the World’s most challenging and inspiring journeys.

It is unfortunate that during these sad times, that a small number of disgruntled, egotistical and ultimately unsuccessful Kokoda track operators, spread misinformation about the Kokoda trekking industry.

The majority of treks across the track are carried out by the 5 largest trekking companies operating on the track, including Kokoda Spirit which is the largest operator on the track. These trekking companies carry advanced communication systems; have public liability insurance, highly trained staff and a comprehensive risk assessment plan. These experienced companies will continue to grow and prosper on the back of their professionalism and recommendations by ultimately successful and happy trekkers.

It is disappointing to hear some operators make outrageous comments and assumptions recently in the press regarding so called safety breaches by other operators, one spokesman for one “expert” operator described the conditions on the track as bad as the diggers had encountered in 1942, this spokesman has never walked the track nor had any idea of the conditions in 1942! This same outspoken trekking operator was still walking his trekkers at midnight to finish their trek! I would have thought this to be extremely dubious and unsafe practice but still he has the audacity to criticise other operators!

Kokoda Spirit had 9 trekking groups on the track a total of 139 trekkers in two different directions and over two different dates during the Anzac period. All treks were led by experienced and professional guides and where extremely successful. All of Kokoda Spirit’s treks were carried out with full permits from the KTA and within the requirements of the Kokoda Track code of conduct. Our trekkers had numerous reasons for trekking Kokoda and all had passed medical examinations.

While further research and study is required to ensure the future of the Kokoda Track is protected, we should not forget that over 30,000 Australians, Papua New Guineans and Japanese walked and fought their way across the Kokoda Track in 1942 and the track survived that onslaught.

It is also important to remember that the people of PNG also derive great benefits from the Kokoda trekking industry. With the development of the trekking industry it has created greater opportunities for the locals along the track, including wages for guides, porters, cooks and logistical staff. Trekking companies pay directly to the villagers, accommodation fees, donations and make local food purchases. The local airlines, bus companies, supermarkets and travel agents all benefit greatly by the income generated by trekkers. A greater benefit to the local community and ultimately PNG is the new sense of pride and self esteem that the locals have; this is due to the new and exciting opportunities that the trekking industry has created in PNG.

The Kokoda Track continues to grow strongly with a code of conduct now in place and administered by the Kokoda Track Authority. This authority will ensure that all Kokoda Track operators adhere to the regulations.

I was a prominent member of the committee formed in 2008 by the Kokoda Track trekking Operators to formulate a Kokoda Track Code of Conduct. This committee was facilitated by Sandy Hollway on behalf of the Australian Government. This code of conduct clearly lays out the responsibilities of the trekking companies. Rod Hillman CEO of the Kokoda Track Authority has this to say; “My understanding is that the committee setup to write the code of conduct has done its task and is now finished. The review at the end of the season will need to be undertaken but I am unaware of any decision about whom or how this will be undertaken”. Mr Hillman goes onto say; The Management Committee of the KTA wants the issue of carrying capacity/sustainability explored. At this stage there is no regulation as to group size or departures but it would seem logical this is an issue that will be fleshed out as a part of the code of conduct review at the end of the season.

The following is extracts from the Kokoda Track Code of Conduct for 2009

VISION

The Kokoda Track will be a premier tourism destination, catering for the requirements of a niche tourist market to experience the adventure, historical, environmental, cultural and social features of PNG, in a sustainable manner.

TOUR OPERATORS AGREE TO:

Adhere to Kokoda Track Authority (KTA) rules, guidelines and procedures: for the orderly and sustainable conduct of trekking operations on the track, including any limitations on number of trekkers and payment of fees. Ensuring individual trekking parties do not exceed the carrying capacity of the Track at any one time, as determined by the KTA.

When I first walked the Kokoda Track with all its obstacles and challenges you feel the aura and spirit of the young men who defeated an enemy, an enemy who had never been conquered, an enemy that had never tasted defeat, they overcame overwhelming odds and atrocious conditions, outnumbered and out gunned their victory was possible due to their trust and respect for each other, their dependence on each other, their ability to never give up, to hang in there when all seemed lost, self belief and strong leadership.

My original journey was a pilgrimage to understand what the Australian Spirit was all about. The Kokoda Track story is truly a remarkable and incredible story, thousands of Australians will continue to make the pilgrimage, let’s hope they have the opportunity to discover the Australian Spirit, the future prosperity of our country and PNG depends on it.

Let’s stop flogging the Kokoda Trekking companies doing the right thing and focus on the incredible story of Courage, Endurance, Mateship and Sacrifice that reflects the Kokoda Spirit on the Kokoda Track and is the cornerstone of the Australian Spirit.

Wayne Wetherall

CEO Kokoda SpiritVisit http://www.kokodaspirit.com

KOKODA SPIRIT-ANZAC SPIRIT

2009-04-11T15:13:00.001+10:00

KOKODA SPIRIT- ANZAC SPIRIT
Japanese Kokoda Veterans Remains Return Home.
The Full Skeletal remains of Japanese Soldiers found on the Kokoda Track have begun their Journey home.
High in the mountains on the Kokoda Track 66 years ago, a small patrol of Australian Soldiers from the 2/16th Battalion carefully organised their defences and waited in the cold, dark, misty and moss covered jungle for the Japanese as they continued their relentless push across the Kokoda Track towards Port Moresby and Australia. This small band of brothers took the fight to the Japanese ambushing them on the 4th September 1942.
The Australian action killed and mortally wounded many Japanese Soldiers, slowing the Japanese progress and allowing the Australian’s time to set new defensive positions and formulate new strategies as their fighting withdrawal continued across the track. These young Australian men fought in one of the most ferocious campaigns on the Kokoda Track and defeated an enemy, an enemy who had never been conquered, an enemy that had never tasted defeat, they overcame overwhelming odds and atrocious conditions, outnumbered and out gunned their victory was possible due to their trust and respect for each other, their dependence on each other, their ability to never give up, to hang in there when all seemed lost, self belief and strong leadership. The story of our Australian Diggers on the Kokoda Track has become folklore, an Australian Legend. The courage, endurance, mateship and sacrifice shown by our boys have made them and the Kokoda Track and Australian Icon.
But what happened to their enemies….?
In February 2008 Wayne Wetherall from the trekking company Kokoda Spirit was exploring some of the less known battle sites along the track, when he made a startling discovery, the leg and foot bone of a Japanese Soldier protruding from the bank of a small river in the Mt Bellamy area. On closer investigation he discovered the full skeletal remains of 4 Japanese Soldiers, including an Officer complete with compass, watch, ID Tags and personal items. These soldiers were from the 2nd Battalion, 144th Regiment of the Japanese Imperial Army the original force, along with the 41st Regiment that led the Japanese advance over the Kokoda Track. The 144th Regiment was also the same Regiment that Kokichi Nishimura also known as the “Bone Man” was from. Kokichi Nishimura dedicated the later part of his life to fulfill a promise he made to his comrades that one day he would return and bring their remains home to Japan for a proper burial. Mr. Nishimura found hundreds of his fallen comrades buried in shallow graves along the track but always only the bottom legs of the skeletons remained. The recent discovery by Kokoda Spirit was reported to the Japanese Embassy in Port Moresby, who assured Mr. Wetherall that a recovery team would be dispatched to the area. The site was carefully documented with the remains reburied and secured. More then a year has passed since this historical discovery, and finally the remains of these Japanese Warriors have begun their Journey home, back to Japan. A formal request from the Japanese Government has been received by Mr. Wetherall and the Kokoda Spirit team to recover the remains of the Japanese Soldiers. The team has begun the recovery process and will officially handover the remains to Japan’s Ambassador Mr. Hajime Nishiyama in Port Moresby on April 24 2009.
Mr. Wetherall commented on the recovery process.” No matter what your thoughts or feelings are towards the Japanese Soldiers; they were sent to war by their Government and lay buried and forgotten in shallow graves far from home along the Kokoda Track. These Soldiers regardless of race are someone’s son, brother, husband or father. My hope is this will bring closer for some families and highlights the horror and futility of war”
Let us hope and pray that this never happens to any of our Soldiers. Lest We Forget.
While Gallipoli was the birth of the Anzac legend and is seen as the birth of our Nation, then Kokoda was our coming of age....

Visit http://www.kokodaspirit.com

Adventure Trekking Food Packages

2009-02-11T07:13:00.002+11:00

Kokoda Spirit along with adventure food company Taste the Adventure have launched a new light weight and powerful food package to power you across the Kokoda Track. The wonderful thing about our food packages is that it is not dehydrated or reconstituted and it contains or the essential minerals, vitamins and sustenance required and is completely natural and 100% organic! Our food packs are a perfect pre and post Kokoda alternative to the highly processed food that we are used to eating. You will notice the difference, with a substantial increase in your energy levels, loss of weight and a healthy inner glow. Contact us today to find out more about this wonderful food source. www.kokodaspirit.com

NEW TRAINING PROGRAMS

2009-02-11T07:09:00.002+11:00

GROUP AND INDIVIDUAL TRAINING
Kokoda Spirit and one of Melbourne’s leading Personal Training Studios PEP haved joined forces to provide the ultimate Kokoda pre and post trek fitness package. These training programs have been specificall designed to get you successfully across the Kokoda Track. Kokoda Spirit and PEP can offer indivdual and group training programs in the PEP studio or in Melbournes favourite Kokoda training grounds including the 1000 steps, Montrose, Albert Park, St Kilda Beach, Como Park, Prahan Pools and the Botanical Gardens.Visit www.kokodaspirit.com

NEW STAFF JOIN KOKODA SPIRIT

2009-02-11T07:02:00.002+11:00

NEW STAFF JOIN KOKODA SPIRIT
Kokoda Spirit are very excited to announce that Dion Taylor has joined the team at Kokoda Spirit. Dion is a Director of Melbourne based PEP Personal Training Studios, and has just completed a marathon ride from Brisbane to melbourne in 10 days! Dion has a passion for the Kokoda Track and for adventure and is looking forward to training with his Melbourne trekkers as they prepare for the Kokoda Track. Dion is our man on the ground in Melbourne and will coordinate all of our training and trekking requirements in the Victorian area Give Dion a call on 0401036337 to arrange training.

Andrea Turner has also joined our Kokoda Spirit team as our International Business Coordinator. Andrea will be responsible for all our new an exciting international adventure destinations. Andrea will ensure that our trekkers receive the very best flight, insurance and adventure packages. Contact Andrea to coordinate all your travel requirements on 0414596945. Check out our sister company Wild Spirit Adventures Visit www.wildspiritadventures.com

New Wartime Kokoda Tracks discovered.

2009-02-11T06:51:00.002+11:00

OLD WARTIME TRACKS REDISCOVERED AND OPEN FOR TREKKING
The Kokoda Track continues to reveal more of its secrets and during the off season an adventurous team of Kokoda Spirit Trek Masters set about the task of re discovering and reopening the prewar mail route from Kagi over the top of Mt Bellamy across Eora Creek and into Templetons No.2 . This was the walking track used in the late 60’s and early 70’s to traverse Mt Bellamy and for whatever reason fell into disuse. I walked a section of this track late last year and along with what the boys have told me on their latest adventure it is an exciting and tough walk. We will offer this alternative route to certain groups this trekking season. We will also be showing groups the original track leading up to the Golden Stairs towards Imita Ridge that we uncovered last year. We are also hoping to offer our trekkers another original alterative section of the Kokoda Track near Naro later this year. It is important to remember that there were many tracks and trails that ran across to Kokoda. Which ever Kokoda Track you walk on you will be walking on the original war track not a "Eco Track" and truly walking in the footsteps of heroes. Wayne Wetherall Kokoda Spirit

New Adventures for 2009

2009-02-11T06:46:00.002+11:00

We have just returned from researching some very new and exciting and adventurous travel destinations in Vietnam, Cambodia and PNG. We are now able to offer some fabulous mountain bike, kayaking and trekking trips in these exciting destinations. I am also this month trekking in the deep jungles of Borneo and will be offering on my return exclusive adrenalin pumping adventures in this beautiful region for our trekkers. We have also designed some exclusive and beathtaking adventures in Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan check them out at www.wildspiritadventures.com Looking for the ultimate adventure? Then join me on one of my exclusive exploration treks as we discover new and exotic adventures. Wild Spirit Adventures is 100% owned by Wayne and Michelle Wetherall. www.wildspiritadventures.com

SUPER NEW YEAR SPECIALS

2008-12-21T14:09:00.001+11:00

SUPER NEW YEAR SPECIALS- KOKODA TRACK LIMITED NUMBERS
Australian led Kokoda treks. $2795 per person
Available Only- 29 March-6 April, 3-11 May and 25 May- 3 June Treks
PNG Local Led Kokoda treks. $2400 per person
Available Only- 3-11 May, 4-13 May, 20-27 May and 1-10 June Treks
Limited Numbers available.
Contact us for group discounts and special inclusions.

Visit http://www.kokodaspirit.com

Merry Christmas

2008-12-21T13:24:00.001+11:00

MERRY CHRISTMAS AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR
To our wonderful past trekkers, future trekkers, associates and supporters,
Michelle, Helen and I in the Australian office along with Joyce, Charles, Helen, Gideon and our wonderful Trek Masters, Porters and staff in PNG would like to take this opportunity to wish you all the very best for the upcoming festive season. May you have a happy, safe and Merry Christmas and a prosperous and successful New Year.

Best Regards
Wayne & Michelle Wetherall
Kokoda Spirit
"In the footsteps of heroes"

Visit http://www.kokodaspirit.com

Kokoda Story

2008-11-18T18:16:00.000+11:00

It’s a tale of courage, endurance, mateship and sacrifice which Wayne and Michelle Wetherall want to share with everyone.
Six years ago, the Sippy Downs couple formed Kokoda Spirit – a company which takes treks across the Kokoda Trail in Papua New Guinea.
Since then, Kokoda Spirit has educated thousands of trekkers about the bitter fight between Australian and Japanese soldiers which took place on the track 66 years ago – which Australia eventually won.
“It’s a business that Michelle and I are very passionate about because it’s such a fantastic story of what took place,” Wayne said.
“This year alone we’ve taken over a thousand trekkers ... We do anything from corporate to school groups to individuals or teams.”
While the trail is 96 kilometres long, with 7,500 meters in climbs and another 7,500 meters in descents, Wayne said the key to completing the track is having a good stamina.
“You don’t need to be an Olympian,” he said.
Hard as that may be to believe, the smallest member of the Wetherall family, Erika, 8, was recently the youngest girl to ever walk to track.
“She just smiled and laughed across the whole track ... she had a great mental approach to it,” Wayne said
The oldest child Blake, 14, has finished the trail five times and Elysia, 11, also achieved the goal.
“We were just trying to expose the kids to some different things in life and some challenges ... it’s a remarkable effort,” he said.
As well as strengthening the Wetherall family bond and changing the lives of those who have made the trek, Kokoda Spirit has helped strengthen the Papua New Guinea economy.
“We employ over 300 people in Papua New Guinea. We buy our food locally over there and pay a fee to camp at their villages ... so we’re a major contributor the economy,” Wayne said.
“Its not just some Australian company coming in there and reaping their rewards.”
In a nation where unemployment is running close to 95 per cent, Wayne said providing jobs for the locals give them a sense of purpose.
“The self esteem you see from these guys and how they grow as people is fascinating ... We treat them as our brothers over there ... It’s not just a business for us,” he said.
“These guys earn three times the national income in the space of 90 days of work ... its a great job for them.”
True blue Aussies, it was Wayne and Michelle’s genuine interest in Australian history and their burning desire to learn more which led them into the business.
“I’ve always had an interest in that inner spirit that makes Australians so unique ... It was a quest to go to some of these battlefields and get into the story,” Wayne said.
The heroic story of the Kokoda Track and the rich culture in Papua New Guinea made it a fascinating place for Wayne and Michelle to start.
“You’ve got your physical challenge, your mental challenge and the cultural exchange.
The scenery is absolutely outstanding ... and the people are just fantastic,” he said.
“It certainly has its challenges ... but the positives far outweigh the negatives,” he said.
Wayne’s depth of knowledge about Kokoda and his passion for sharing that with others was evident in his words.
“Sixty-six years ago these blokes battled on, these were just mere boys ... just kids,” he said.
“Under-trained and undermanned the soldiers fought hard and won the battle ... The greatest army in the world, at the time which is the Japanese army, never been defeated before, were pounding down and our boys stopped them.
“It’s an awesome story ... of the true underdog. I was always fascinated by what happened and I walked the track and got really caught up in the emotion of it because ... it’s still living history. You’re still finding grenades and bullets in the weapon pits ... it’s still just as raw as it was when our soldiers were there.”
But that fact that the trail is “still moving and shaking” also makes it a challenge to work there.
“It’s not like working in Australia where everything’s systems in place. It’s expect the unexpected over there,” he said.
The unexpected occurred in February this year when Wayne discovered more than just old bullets. Following a flood, he spotted a human bone and a boot sticking out of the ground.
“I did a little dig ... not to disturb too much and then realised it was a Japanese soldier ... their helmet, diary, watch cigarette box, dog tags, everything, was still all intact,” he said.
With a little more excavation Wayne discovered the full skeletal remains of four Japanese soldiers.
“They’re still there now ... We contacted the Japanese Embassy in Port Moresby ... It doesn’t appear they’re coming to get their boys. They’ve got dog tags, you know who they are ... It’s a bit disappointing,” he said.
For Wayne, and many other Australians who have completed the Kokoda Trail and know the story, it is a life-changing experience.
“It doesn’t matter if you’re a multi-millionaire or a pauper, the track still hurts the same ... it brings everybody together,” he said.
“It empowers people ... people put limitations on themselves ... they realise what they thought was impossible is not.”
Already, Kokoda Spirit is the top trekking company in Papua New Guinea and is still growing.
“We’ll continue to seek new challenges,” Wayne said.
In the future, Wayne and Michelle hope to expand the business and include other tourist activities in Papua New Guinea.
“It’s got so much to offer even if you’re not remotely interested in war ... It’s just the sheer beauty of the place,” Wayne said.
“There are over 2000 different cultures... and over 700 active languages ... we want to let people see that.
“There’s a glimmer of hope there that they can turn things around ... it’s one of the last great frontiers and with the resources they have ... they shouldn’t be poor.”
Under another name – Wild Spirit – the couple has also recently expanded their business into Borneo, Vietnam, Nepal and Africa.
“They’re all adventure related ... with some sort of Australian connection,” Wayne said.
For more information about Kokoda Spirit and treks visit www.kokodaspirit.com
Visit http://www.kokodaspirit.com

Adventure Travel and Back Packers Expo Brisbane

2008-11-18T08:21:00.002+11:00

Adventure Travel and Back packers Expo Brisbane.
Kokoda Spirit along with our sister company Wild Spirit Adventures will be exhibiting at this fantastic travel show. Come down and see us and we can plan your next big adventure across Kokoda or our other great adventure destinations!
22-23 Nov 2008 at the Exhibition and Convention Centre. Talk to over 100 exhibitors at Brisbane's ONLY Adventure Travel Expo!
Come to the expo and enter the draw to win great prizes such as a Return Flight to the UK; and a Return Flight to Asia - including taxes - courtesy of STA Travel
There is no better way to go than talking to the experts before planning the trip of a lifetime. Our exhibitors come from all over the world and are there to give you the low-down on all that's happening out there.
Listen in on the free travel talks; get great deals and specials; enjoy the freebies on offer...its not only a great day out, but so important to do before making that big travel decision!
Times: 10am-4pm (Saturday and Sunday)
Cost: Well, at the door it's $7; but click here for your 2-for-1 voucher!
Travel Talks for the 2008 Brisbane Expo Travel Talks list
Prizes, Discounts and Specials: for some of the prizes and specials.
Get a free copy of FHM Magazine at the expo.

Visit http://www.kokodaspirit.com

Coast to Coast Challenge

2008-11-18T08:02:00.003+11:00

Our Coast to Coast Challenge has just been completed by a small group of adventurers. These adventurers included Kokoda Spirit Managing Director Wayne Wetherall his 14 year old son Blake Wetherall, and Mick Turner. This was the very first history making trek by bike and foot from the North Coast of PNG across the Kokoda Track and down to Port Moresby. The trek and ride started at the North Coast, coastal village of Buna on the Solomon Sea. Buna was the scene of bitter fighting with the Japanese during the Kokoda Track campaign. The bike leg from Buna to Kokoda was 120 kms over rough and muddy ground taking over 9hours. They then took just under 4 days to cover the 96km from Kokoda to Owers Corner. Their journey finished on Remembrance Day on the South Coast of PNG at Ela Beach in Port Moresby. The Journey covered over 285 km of the roughest and toughest terrain including the famous Kokoda Track, testing not only their physical capabilities but their mental and spiritual toughness. Normal treks across just the Kokoda Track take 9 days but the team slashed over 5 days of the regular trekking itineraries plus added the extra riding part!
This unique journey was to honour the memory of the gallant men who fought along the Kokoda Track and the battles along the beach heads of PNG, and to bring awareness to the legend of Kokoda and to raise funds for their Spirit Foundation which supports medical and education programs across the entire track. The Coast to Coast challenge will become a regular event on the Kokoda adventure program.

Visit http://www.kokodaspirit.com

Kokoda Trek Operator difference

2008-10-15T07:51:00.002+11:00

Trekking Kokoda with Kokoda Spirit is an experience not just a holiday. We see things as an explorer that tourist and Military trekking companies cannot. Trekking Kokoda gives you a complete new mental re-set, a bank of memories and bragging rights over your friends. Kokoda is participation in a personal discovery experience you are re living a historic and monumental adventure.
There is some Kokoda trekking Companies, that pump their chests and tell you how good they are, how professional they are and how they are the only ones that have true Military Leaders as guides and the only ones to walk the original Wartime Track. These same companies walk you in 'Platoon' size (33 trekkers plus) to give you the real miltary feel. Multiply these trekker numbers with nearly twice as many porters and you have a huge congo line through the Jungle! They also walk you on occaisions at night, what a dangerous thing to be doing! Not sure how you can take in the ambience and scenery of the Kokoda Track when you cannot see two feet in front. They also charge you a huge price for the privelege!
The Latin theory of 'caveat emptor' (Let the buyer beware) applies here. Make sure you choose the trekking company to suit your needs. Kokoda Spirit can design a package to suit your requirements. Kokoda Spirit trekker numbers per trek are around 12 and our prices are great value for money. Our Australian and PNG Guides are Wilderness First Aid trained and have an absolute passion and knowledge of the battles, history and culture along the Kokoda Track.

Wartime Track versus Eco-Tourist Track

2008-10-15T07:27:00.002+11:00

It absolutely amazes me that some so called Military History Companies refer to sections of the Kokoda Track as the 'eco-tourist track! These companies refer to the 'eco- tourist track as being easier with some battlesites along the way. What an absolute insult to the men that walked, fought and died along the Kokoda Track and the thousands of trekkers who have also trekked Kokoda to pay their respects. Kokoda Spirit acknowledges that there is more then one original track across the Owen Stanley Ranges, including mulitple paths from Ofi Creek, Dump 66, Dump 88, Brigade Hill, Efogi and across Mt Bellamy to Myola, Templeton's Crossing and the eastern side of the Yodda Valley. Kokoda Spirit has explored these other Kokoda Tracks and knows the rich history of the area.
The section of track we walk on takes you over the original "Golden Stairs", Imita Ridge, Iorabaiwa, Ofi Creek, Nauro, Menari, Brigade Hill, Templetons Crossings 1 and 2 Eora Creek, Alola, Isurava, Deniki and Kokoda. These were all scenes of major battles and loss of life along Kokoda. Rest assured when you walk Kokoda with Kokoda Spirit you are walking on the Wartime Track not an eco-tourist track.

Original Wartime Kokoda Track Discovered

2008-10-11T08:05:00.002+11:00

The original Wartime Kokoda Track has been discovered. Hidden under 66 years of dense Jungle growth original sections of the Kokoda Track have been recently discovered by Historian and Adventurer Wayne Wetherall from specialist trekking company Kokoda Spirit. After extensive research of old survey maps, WW11 maps, and a extensive helicopter survey, Wayne finally cut and trekked through the Jungle to discover sections of the original "Golden Stairs" across Imita Ridge not seen since the bloody battles of 1942. Wayne and his team also uncovered and trekked a forgotten second "Kokoda Trail" used on the Kokoda Track to out flank the Japanese.This discovery finally allows the thousands of trekkers who trek the Kokoda Track each year to walk in the original footsteps of heroes.

8 Year Girl youngest to walk Kokoda track

2008-10-11T07:36:00.003+11:00

8 year Old Erika Wetherall has just become the youngest girl to walk the Kokoda Track. The young adventurer walked Kokoda with her sister Elysia, brother Blake and their Mum and Dad, Michelle and Wayne Wetherall. Erika had a great time and wants to walk Kokoda 4 times before she turns 10!

Visit http://www.kokodaspirit.com

Gold Medal Performance

2008-09-10T10:10:00.002+10:00

Six time Gold winning Winter Paralympian and Australias fastest skier Michael Milton is excited and keen to join the Kokoda Coast to Coast Challenge.
Michael is presently competing in Beijing in his first Summer Paralympics in cycling.
To find out more about the Kokoda Coast to Coast Challenge, Michael Milton or any information regarding Kokoda or the Kokoda Track contact us.

Visit http://www.kokodaspirit.com

Kokoda- Japanese Soldiers left for dead!

2008-09-10T09:28:00.002+10:00

Kokoda is the resting place for the remains of Australian, Japanese and Papuan New Guinea soldiers and carriers who fought in the battles along the Kokoda Track. In February this year I, along with members of my Kokoda Spirit team discovered the full skeletal remains buried along the Kokoda Track of four Japanese soldiers killed in an ambush by the Australians in the moss forests near Mt Bellamy. Our discovery was reported to the Australian Government who put us in contact with the Japanese High Commission in Port Moresby. We were assured by the Japanese Embassy that they would make every effort to recover the remains and return them to Japan. We were also able to identify personal items of the soldiers including ID tag of one of the Soldiers. The skeletal remains of these soldiers are still buried on the track and are in a very vulnerable position. It is now September and the remains still have not been recovered, once again I have been in contact with the Japanese in regards to recovering their war dead from Kokoda. There seems to be no interest from the Japanese in recovering these soldiers.It seems a shame that these young Japanese soldiers sent to war by their government are left buried in a shallow grave far from home on the Kokoda Track.

No matter what your thoughts are regarding the brutal and savage tactics used by the Japanese, these soldiers are someones son, brother, husband or father.

I hope we can make some progress soon before the next wet season hits Kokoda.

Visit http://www.kokodaspirit.com

Kokoda Diary

2008-09-10T09:22:00.001+10:00

KOKODA – OWERS CORNER
THE ADVENTURE OF A LIFE TIME

When the possibility of trekking Kokoda was raised, I jumped at the chance. I loved the challenge it presented, and due to a family military history, I’ve always held those who fought and continue to fight, for our freedom in such high regard. I felt there was no better way to honour our former ADF members than by “trekking in the footsteps of heroes”.

After speaking with a friend who trekked Kokoda as a training exercise with the SAS, he assured me that I had the mental capabilities to complete it (a positive, can-do attitude is essential), however he was concerned about my physical ability (walking the dog every morning was not going to cut it on Kokoda!!!). With only 3 months to trek date; I set out on a 10 hour hike up and down a 5km mountain. I managed 45km before my body gave up on me. Pretty good I thought, however I could hardly move for the next two days (and I didn’t even carry a pack!!!). With Kokoda being the third most difficult trek in the world I decided to take my training seriously and joined Renouf personal training centre in Applecross, WA. The staff tailored a program to suit, focusing on leg strength training and cardio. I trained 4-5 times per week, walked the dog 4km every morning and spent an hour every Sunday doing stair runs up and down Jacobs’s ladder in Perth. Looking back I’m glad I prepared so much as it made for a more enjoyable trek and aided my recovery time. If you are not overly fit or are carrying extra weight, hit the gym hard before tackling the trail, you’ll be glad you did!!

With a training program covered, I set about learning more about the history of Kokoda and our “ragged bloody heroes”. Without a doubt, Kokoda by Peter Fitzsimons was the best book I read and the movie, of the same name, assisted in the visual representation of the challenge I was about to undertake. If you’re not much of a reader, The Spirit of Kokoda: Then and Now, by Patrick Lindsay is easier to digest and a great read also. If you don’t get a chance to read up on the history of Kokoda, you won’t miss out; the Kokoda Spirit guides are walking experts who are more than happy to answer all your questions. The knowledge that they had and the passion for sharing it was truly inspiring.

Training and knowledge sorted, now it was time to pack. For a woman like me this usually means bringing everything bar the kitchen sink and an orange “heavy – bend with knees” tag attached at check-in!!! Packing was by far, the most difficult task I undertook before setting off and the day I left I was frantically running around getting last minute things. A list of what I took can be found at the end of my journal. The best advice I can offer is to pack everything into plastic zip-top bags and then into larger, water-proof dry sacks.

Finally the much anticipated day arrived. Although I was nervous when I left Perth, I was also full of excitement as I was off on the adventure of a lifetime and whatever lay in store was just another chapter in my life. Thankfully I’m still here to be able to write it!!!

Upon arriving in Moresby the whole plane was in high spirits (mostly due to the copious ones we’d consumed on the flight!!!) and we all made our way down to immigration. This is where we had our first lesson in PNG time measurement. The line for a visa was around 100 people long and we were told it “wouldn’t take long” to get through. Two hours later we were still waiting. There’s no toilet in the immigration holding area (a killer when you’ve drunk far too much on the plane) but if you smile and ask politely, they’ll let you through to use the ones on the other side. When I finally made it to the front of the queue, I realised why it took so long to get there. One person collects your money and stamps your passport, while another hand writes a receipt. The whole process takes about 5 minutes per person. If you can, organise your visa before you go, that way you’ll be at Gateway, enjoying a drink by the pool within 30 minutes of landing, instead of 3 hours!!!

After settling into to Gateway (the hotel used by trekkers), I had a few hours to kill before a debriefing by our Kokoda Spirit guide. I figured I’d go for a walk around and see what was outside, maybe even pick up some souvenirs and be back in time for the debrief. When I saw the razor wire that surrounded the hotel complex, the massive entry gates that were guarded by security and the look of horror on another trekkers face when I told her of my plan, I changed my mind and stayed put!!! My walk was confined to the grounds of the hotel (it’s not too safe on the other side of the fence!!!). If you’re into fitness (you need to be if you’re about to take on Kokoda), the hotel has a gym, tennis courts and a pool. In 36° C and 80% humidity, a swim in the pool refreshes any tired traveller.

Around 5.30pm a group of 19 excited trekkers (later known as “The A Team”) gathered around the pool for a debriefing by our guide, Wayne. We were told what to expect (a hell of a hard walk, but an amazing adventure), informed of our departure time (which would later be another lesson in PNG time measurement) and issued with our backpacks (considerably smaller than the one I had brought with me!!!!). I left the debriefing in high spirits, no leaches or snakes had been seen on the trail for a few months and excellent weather conditions were forecast.

With our debriefing over and done with, it was time for tea. Gateway served an excellent buffet dinner, highly recommended by all who ate it, and allows you add a few extra kilos that are later lost on the trail. After tea, it was time to repack into our Kokoda Spirit issued backpacks. I was more nervous with this than I was with trekking. It was time to cull!!!!!!! 3 women in a room, deciding what was and wasn’t necessary for 9 days in the jungle was a sight to see (and hear). We filled our camelbacks and put them in the fridge (highly recommended) and set about culling. Four hours and 5 repacks later we were all set and ready to go. Sleeping that night was another issue altogether. We were so excited that we stayed up talking till the wee hours of the morning, only to have to be up and out by 9am.

Again, I recommend the buffet for breakfast at Gateway, last chance to stock up on fresh milk and bread. From there it was time to head down to the lobby with our backpacks and whatever else we were taking on our adventure. Gateway keeps all valuables you don’t take with you locked away in a safe and your luggage stored away until you return, just be sure to clearly label your belongings as this makes it easier when you return.

As our group was trekking from Kokoda to Ower's, we had to fly to Kokoda. If you can, get a seat on the left hand side of the plane as this will give you excellent views over the Owen Stanleys. As we boarded the plane we were full of excitement (excluding 2 nervous flyers) and all through the flight heads were pressed to windows taking in the breathtaking scenery. It was almost comical to think that what took 20 minutes to fly to would take 9 days to walk back from!!!

Upon landing in Kokoda (amid great applause from the two nervous flyers) I was immediately struck by the searing heat (keep sunscreen and a hat handy) and the unimaginable beauty of what surrounded me. In the distance, mountain peaks stood tall and strong and led down to beautiful green valleys. Rubber plantations offered much longed for shade, not only for the trekkers but also for the hundreds of locals who had gathered at the airfield. Kunai grass stood 4m high and occasionally a machete wielding Papua New Guinean would appear through the grass and join their friends on the open field. At first seeing hundreds of locals, most wielding machetes, with blood red stained mouths (due to their much loved betelnut) made me feel a little uneasy. All the same I took the time to speak to a few of them and purchased some fruit to eat while I waited for our guide and luggage to arrive. When I later relayed this experience to Joe (my amazing porter) he smiled and laughed at my unease and told of the joy that the locals feel when a plane lands at Kokoda, bringing with it the next group of people brave enough to tackle the Owen Stanleys. With no TV, no shops and little to do, he said that those who live close by come to the airfield for entertainment, to farewell family and friends who work as porters on the trail and to sell fruit, bags, clothes, cigarettes and betelnut. From experience, skip the betelnut and buy the fruit!!!! The water at Kokoda airfield is clean to drink so you can top-up your camel backs and water bottles there.

After an hour wait, our guide and luggage arrived and we were introduced to our porters. It was time for a few photos by the Kokoda sign before heading off to Kokoda village for lunch (ham and salad rolls and fresh fruit), a look around the museum and a talk by our guide on the battles that took place at Kokoda. The walk from the airfield is really easy and includes a small river crossing before a small walk up a hill to the plateau. Don’t be fooled by this. It’s nothing like the rest of the trail!!!!

Kokoda plateau is stunningly beautiful, a flat grassed area drops down to a luscious green valley, spotted with village huts and rubber plantations. Huge peaks encase the plateau, as though gently cradling it in their hands. I took the time to close my eyes, feel the heat and listen to the silence. In all its beauty it was hard to imagine the atrocities that took place there. I walked around and read the white stone memorials, they offered up some useful information about the Australians, Japanese and the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels. The museum, although small, is befitting of the area and pays homage to those who once fought for our freedom, and to those who helped them. The old weaponry that adorns the walls brings the war to life. Out side the museum (leaning against the toilet block) lays the wing of a Japanese zero. The whole Kokoda trail is one giant museum, out in the open, just waiting to be explored.

After lunch on the plateau, it’s your last chance to use a flushable toilet for 9 days!!! It’s also a great place to cool own by wetting your hat as the next 20 minutes is spent walking out in the open. As we set off from Kokoda village, I continually scanned from left to right taking in the jungle that our heroes had once fought in. It was so thick and dense you could barely see 10m into it. It was simply a thick web of varying shades of green amid row upon row of rubber trees. My mind drifted to the diggers, and in particularly to the 39th. How the hell did they do it? These young men; brothers, friends, partners, but above all, Australian heroes in the making. Most of them younger than myself (26), yet willing to pay the ultimate sacrifice. They wouldn’t have even seen the Japanese coming. The first of many tears welled in my eyes and I took a few photos of the seemingly impenetrable mass of green to show my friends back home.

From Kokoda to the next village, Kovello, was an easy walk (a nice way to ease into the trek, but don’t be fooled!!!). Iridescent blue, yellow and green butterflies hovered in the humidity, village people strolled along the trail, the ground was quite level and few hazards presented. It allowed me to chat to others in the group and also the time to reflect on my personal journey to Kokoda and the experiences I had had so far. At Kovello we were greeted by many smiling locals and beautiful, excited children. Being a school teacher, I was in awe of the small school on the left hand side of the tail as you walk into the village. Two small classrooms, no desks or chairs (children sit in the red dirt) and a few hand written posters. A simple grass hut, yet beautifully cared for. I took many photos here and smiled as I thought about what the kids faces back home would look like when I showed them these. Other members of the group had bought footballs and soccer balls to give to the village kids; the first of many was given out at Kovello. From the look on the kids’ faces, and the yells of delight that ensued, you would have thought that they’d been told they were going to Disneyland!! If you can, take over some school supplies (books, pencils) and leave them with the school teacher. Take over tennis balls, soccer balls, footballs, toys and see the elation on the kids faces, it’s magical. They have so little and truly appreciate everything. It’s refreshing to see.

As we prepared to leave Kovello, 4 stretcher bearing porters were making their way back to Kokoda carrying the latest victim of the trail, the sombre group in tow. Although alive, the trekker was suffering from sever dehydration and had to be evacuated. On one hand seeing a fellow trekker carried out on a stretcher was heartbreaking, on the other, it was a valuable lesson in re-hydration. The trail isn’t easy and if you don’t keep your fluids up, it can easily claim you. For some, seeing the stretcher party helped ease a few nerves as at least they knew that in an emergency they would be well cared for. The spirit of the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels is alive and kicking in the Papua New Guinean porters.

No sooner had we set out from Kovello when the clouds rolled in and the heavens opened. Massive drops of heavy rain fell straight down. It was a welcome relief from the hot sun and the stifling humidity. I stopped and watched as the dry cracks in the earth below me gave way to a muddy, slippery, squelching path. Within minutes the trail looked entirely different, and so did I. I was soaking wet, my boots and socks felt 10kg heavier, I could feel blisters forming on my toes and yet I still couldn’t wipe the smile off my face. Bring it on, I thought. Nothing could stop me. I just wished I’d packed my poncho and waterproof bag cover in my day pack!!!!

After a 5.5km walk from Kokoda, we arrived in Hoi, which thankfully had drop toilets, for our fist night stay. Porters set up the tents and soaking wet trekkers washed in the cool, fresh water river that ran between the two campsites at Hoi. Again, it was hard to believe that in such beauty many fighting withdrawals took place as the Australians kept the Japanese at arms length. The picturesque river camp provided a relaxed atmosphere in which all members of the group got to know one another better. Don’t be scared if you intend on tackling Kokoda by yourself. Within hours you’ll make life long friends with those on the trek. It’s an experience that bounds you together (others will get fed up of hearing your Kokoda stories, those who trekked it with you can listen for hours!!!).
The river at Hoi also allows you to wash you clothes and boots, I couldn’t believe how filthy I was after only one day!! Once you’ve washed your clothes and boots, your porters are happy to take them and dry them by the fire over night. In the morning they’ll deliver them to your tent door all clean and mostly dry (yet reeking of camp fire). At dinner that night (bangers and mash – and lots of it) we all sat around the campfire and got to know one another a bit better as well as share our motivation for taking on Kokoda. The A Team was becoming a little family. Chats continued into the night over many cups of tea, coffee and milo. Our guide also shared his passion for the trail, passing on his knowledge of the events that occurred along the very trail we had just walked. His passion for sharing the story of our diggers was captivating.

Soon after 5am in the morning we were woken with a cheery “Good morning everyone”, our signal to get up, dressed, packed and ready to begin the day. After little sleep (at least now I knew who the snorers were and vowed to keep my tent far from them) it was difficult to get going as it was still dark and my little lantern didn’t really cut it. Take a head torch, make it a bright one!!! The quicker you pack the quicker you can be up enjoying a morning coffee. It was here I also learnt to be packed the night before so all I had to do in the morning was dress, roll up the mattress and put away my sleeping bag, it allowed for an extra 15 minutes sleep (just like pushing the snooze button!!!). As soon as you’re out of the tent, your porter will pack it up while you have breakfast (muesli, weetbix, scones – yummy with peanut butter and jam and tea, coffee and milo) and will fill your camelback if you didn’t get it filled during the night.

We set off just as the day was breaking, ahead lay the beginning of the climb over the Owen Stanleys. The previous day was an easy walk, today the challenge began. From here on in your porter will never be far from you. They become like a pair of wings, lifting you to stop you from falling down, pushing you up hills when the going gets tough and leading the way so you know where to put your feet. Take the time to get to know your porter. They are all amazing people and are more than happy to share their culture. They walk the trail to feed their families or send their children, brothers and sisters to school. They are the most selfless people I have ever met, a true inspiration. For around an hour we had a steady climb up towards the abandoned wartime battle site of Deniki. The majority of the walk was under the canopy and a spray of mist helped to ease the humidity. It was a difficult climb (where the trekker we’d seen the previous day had made it to before being stretchered out) but encouraging one another made it easier to handle the thick, gluggy mud. The scenery was again, breathtaking and upon arriving at Deniki our entire group was in awe of what surrounded us. The muddy, vine entangled mountain we’d just conquered was invisible. Covered by a blanket of soft, fluffy, blinding white cloud. It looked as though you could jump on it and simply hop from jungle covered peak to peak. I remembered before I left telling my four year old nephew that I’d be walking through and above the clouds whilst on the Kokoda trail. With wonder in his eyes, his face lit up as he marvelled “Wow, you’ll be in heaven”. He was right, I was in heaven!!!

After a pit stop at Deniki, we were off again. A short steep climb followed by a steady decent followed. This is where stair running paid off. Many trekkers felt the pinch on their knees during the decent. If you do have knee problems make sure to either tape your knees or wear a knee brace, the downhills can be more troublesome and painful than the uphills. A steepish 3 hour walk through canopy and open areas covered in choko vines ensued. The choko vines, remnants of abandoned village gardens, covered in jungle in a never ending green blanket. Along the way camelbacks can be filled up. Purification tablets are not needed as the water is fresh and unpolluted. Take the chance to wet your head or your hat as the walk to Isurava village is a hot one.

At Isurava village we stopped for another break (they have drop toilets there) and we were even able to buy Coke, Solo (5K) and Twisties (2K) from the villages. They also had fresh fruit to purchase (2-10K) and plenty of it. Even if you don’t drink soft drink, buy one for your porter, they’ll appreciate it (after all they are carrying your stuff!!!) and at the same time you’ll be supporting the local village. They help to maintain the trail and your support will continue to allow them to do so.

From there it was an hour or so walk to the Isurava Battle Field. Along the way we passed the wreckage of a Japanese Zero and crossed over front creek, the rough division between the Australian and Japanese troops. The Isurava Battle Field was breathtaking. The lower plateau, adorned with the memorial pillars of courage, endurance, mateship and sacrifice, overlooked Front Creek, the Eora Valley and all the way out to the Kokoda plain. Behind the pillars, engraved plaques revealed the battle that took place there and photographs honour the brave men that sacrificed so much for the freedom we enjoy today. Down to the right was Kingsbury’s Rock. It marked the site where the legendary Bruce Kingsbury, the only VC winner from Kokoda, was shot and killed. It was here that we held a heart-warming memorial service to honour those who once fought a brutal fight. There was not a dry among our group. Adding to the atmosphere was a member of our group who had brought along his bugle. To hear the Last Post at such a significant site was something I’ll never forget. It was here that we were also treated to the sweet, soulful voices of our porters. Their harmonious voices rose up to the heavens and lifted our spirits just as high (they sure put our singing of the National Anthem to shame!!!).

Isurava Battle Field is also home to a War Museum (unfortunately this was closed while we were there), drop toilets and a shower. I recommend taking in the site on your own, it allows you to get a feel for the area and experience the jungle noises that our Diggers had to endure.

From the Battle Field to the next overnight camp of Alola was around a 2 hour trek and encompassed three creek crossings as well as newly constructed huts that depict the original Isurava rest house area. As we neared Alola we had glorious views of the valley below and could see all the way to the Isurava battle Field. The campsite at Alola offered magnificent, million dollar views over the valley and across to Abuari. A pipe shower allows for an open air wash of bodies and clothes and a drop toilet sits just above the camp site. Local villagers sell fruit and chips, both at night and in the early morning set off. Alola also has an excellent dining room where we stayed up chatting, reflecting on our day and the history seeped area till sleep crept in.

“Good morning everyone” greeted us soon after 5am and our third day was underway. At that time of morning it was still dark and also a bit chilly so keep head lights and jumpers handy for the morning start at Alola. After a typical Kokoda Spirit breakfast of weetbix, muesli, scones, tea, coffee and milo, we were off again. The steep, muddy climb down from Alola proved difficult for some trekkers and again wreaked havoc on the knees. A log crossing greeted us at the bottom and a stunning waterfall presented upstream. It was then on to a series of undulations as we followed the creek line along the trail. We stopped along the Eora creek ridge and explored the Japanese camp site at lay above the trail. Relics lay undisturbed, grenades, bullet and mortar casings and even Japanese helmets. From the ridge you can also stand in the exact spot that the Japanese once carved out to position their mountain gun. As you look out onto the Eora village below you can only but imagine the devastation that was once caused by the mountain gun as it rained down on the peaceful, unsuspecting village.

From the top of the ridge it was a muddy, steep climb down to another river crossing at Eora Creek and then a steep climb up to the village on the other side for a rest. It was then onto a steep, extremely muddy climb to the top of a hump. Along the way we passed many Australian fox holes/weapon pits that lined the track, further evidence to the brutal realities of war and the fighting withdrawal methods of the Australians. We then stopped for lunch in a sunny clearing. Clothes that hadn’t dried over night were hung from the trees and a typical lunch of noodles, baked beans, cheese, tomatoes, crackers, salami, ham, tuna, scones and sweet potato was served. While relaxing in the sunshine we were treated again to the heavenly voices of our porters as they played the guitar and sang to lift our spirits. You’ll find yourself humming along to the songs long after the trek has finished.

A fairly steep, muddy decent led us to our next overnight campsite, Templetons 2, situated on the roaring Eora creek. The creek forms natural spa like pools and is a refreshing waterhole that soothes aching feet and muscles. Although freezing cold, it’s worth the dip and you can sun yourself on the massive boulders that line the creek. Templetons 2 is a fantastic site for clothes washing and you won’t need to dry you things by the fire if you wash early. A member of our group had his 50th birthday at Templetons 2, Wayne and the boys (porters) made sure it was celebrated in style. The boys sang well into the night and even prepared a birthday cake to celebrate the occasion. I can’t even describe how special a night it was. Listening to the raging creek that night was magical and extremely relaxing.

“Good morning everyone” greeted the cold morning after a cold night. Once again it was time to pack up, have breakfast and head off for our forth day. Massive hills and an extremely muddy trail greeted us on our trek to Templetons 1. Although the mud makes trekking more difficult, I found listening to the squelching sound of our boots extremely poignant, after all that’s exactly what the Diggers would have heard through the silence of the jungle. From Templetons 1 it was about an hour and a half of uphill climbing to The Gap, a split in the range where small aircraft used to fly. A gradually steep climb to Mt Bellamy, the highest point on the trail at 2190m above sea level, followed. From here we gained a better perspective of The Gap and could see all the way to Kokoda. It was then a down hill slog through a muddy trail to Camp 1900 where we stopped for lunch. Ancient Pandanus trees surrounded the picturesque creek spot, remnants of an arctic beach forest, millions of years old. Also situated at camp 1900 is the gravesite of Japanese soldiers. Discovered by our Kokoda Spirit guide Wayne, a small lean to marks the sacred site. It was fascinating listening to him recall the story of the sites discovery. At camp 1900 we were given the choice of heading straight to our next campsite, about a 2 hour walk, or bypassing past Myola 2, which would then take 4 hours to get to camp. If you’re fit, take the added challenge, if you’re not, head straight to camp.

On the way to Myola 2 we stopped at the crash site of an American B25 plane. Remnants of the twisted wreckage lined the site, a 2m bomb lay along side it and the landing gear, with tyre inscriptions still visible, rested near by. We then made our way to the edge of Myola 2 where we stopped to see an Australian ammunition dump. With the Japanese hot on their heels, our Diggers dug massive holes that are scattered throughout the jungle and dumped all that they could not carry in them. Australian boots, helmets, grenades, mortars and bullets had been excavated by the local landowners and contribute to the open museum that makes up the Kokoda trail. At Myola 2, the site of the biscuit bombings, we listened as our guide explained the significance of the area. A massive grassland area, the inside of a volcanic crater, where much needed supplies were dumped during the war. Definitely worth the detour if fitness permits.

A relaxed hour and a half walk through magnificent rainforest provided a nice change. Moss covered forest, giant pandanas trees, exotic orchids and never ending tree ferns captivated all of us. A steep, muddy climb, followed by an even steeper, muddier decent lead down to our next camp, Naduli. Breathtaking views awaited us, as did a screened shower and the cleanest drop toilets. The surrounding local village was like a scene from a movie, huts stood atop stilts, local children played on the open clay ground, women collected fruit, vegetables and herbs from the village garden and music could be heard resonating through the valley. Another Kokoda Spirit trek group camped a few meters away from us that night offering a nice opportunity to meet more people and share experiences. Later that night Papua New Guinean Idol erupted between the two porter groups, once again their sweet voices fill the air. Falling asleep to the sweet sounds of the boys singing was magical.

“Good morning everyone”. Time to dress, pack and have breakfast before heading down to Naduli village to meet Oburo Ndiki, the only surviving Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel. By far this was one of the highlights of my trek. To meet such a humbled man brought tears to my eyes as did his life story told by his son Andy. An amazing man, an amazing experience.

An incredibly steep, at times slippery and muddy trail lay ahead for the next hour, followed by a river crossing and another steep climb under the scorching sun to Efogi 2. We stopped here for a while, taking in the breathtaking views and a Japanese memorial while enjoying the fresh local fruit on offer from the locals. You can also buy soft drink and bags from Efogi 2. Situated here was also the local orphanage, another highlight of my trek. More soccer balls and footballs were handed out here and for around 15 minutes we were able to have a kick around with the orphaned children. From the beaming smiles on their faces they loved it just as much as we did. Another highlight to add to the list.

The walk from Efogi 2 down to Efogi 1 (the half way point along the trail) is incredibly hot as the jungle canopy gives way to open, low lying coverage. Another picturesque river crossing (take the time to wet your head or hat, you’ll be glad you did!!) leads to the large village of Efogi 1. It was then onto another stunning river crossing (wet your head or hat again) before a steep climb in the blazing sun to the top of Mission Ridge. Tall kuni grass traps the heat, making it unbearable at times, the 2/27th dug in here and fought off the Japanese. Considering they had limited water supply, you wonder how they handled the intense heat.

Soon after the canopy provides some much needed shade and a steepish climb leads to Brigade Hill. Along the way Australian and Japanese weapon pits are clearly visible, as is the old hollow tree stump where a Japanese Corporal once hid for 3 days. The final steep ascent to Brigade Hill was a tough one but upon getting to the top and seeing the magnificent 360° view that surrounded me, I’d forgotten all about the tough climb. We stopped for lunch here and again fresh local fruit was on offer from the local villages, a refreshing treat under the hot sun. Brigade hill was not only our lunch site but was once the site of the 21st headquarters. Another fierce battle took place here where Australians stood shoulder to shoulder with bayonet’s raised and charged at the Japanese. They showed amazing courage fighting in the almost vertical slopes that surrounded Brigade Hill. We held another memorial service here, two Kokoda Spirit groups combined to honour the Diggers and I was fortunate enough to be given the honour of reading The Ode. Tears flowed freely as a role of honour was called before giving way to The Last Post. Again we honoured the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels as the voices of our Papua New Guinean brothers echoed through the valley below. Yet another highlight.

A very steep and muddy 3 hour climb brought us to Menari, our next overnight camp site. Toilet and shower facilities exist at Menari, however, a beautiful creek is situated on the other side of the airfield and is home to a small waterfall that is perfect for washing under. Be sure to take your stick/poles with you as it’s a steep, slippery walk up and down to the creek. Menari campsite was once the home to Australian aid posts and again many war time relics adorn the area. If you have any medical supplies that you do not wish to carry, they can be left at the clinic at Menari. By now all of us were starting to feel incredibly weary, the 8 hour trekking days were starting to take their toll on feet, knees, backs and also on a few people’s spirits. Our guide noticed this and gave us the option of trekking 8 hours the following day, thus reducing the number of trekking hours over the next few days, or, a 4 hour trek the following day where we could rest by a beautiful creek out in the sunshine. Needless to say we opted for the shorter trek and a day in the sunshine. That settled, moral began to lift as we knew the next day would be a shorter one.

Due to a shorter trek day, the sun was up before “good morning everyone” signalled the dress, pack and breakfast routine we were now all accustomed to. After a few morning stretches we were off again. Our first stop was just up the airfield to the local village and the site where Ralph Honner delivered his “Ragged Bloody Heroes” address to the 39th after their battle at Isurava. To stand in the same spot as the courageous men of the 39th was almost surreal, again more tears flowed.

It was then a steep climb out of Menari followed by an even steeper decent to an open, enchanted-like section of the trail. From here we walked along the leaf littered trail under the canopy before emerging at the open campsite of Agulago. The stunning campsite sat on the edge of a large creek that provided one of the best swimming spots along the trail. This was also the perfect place to wash and dry any dirty clothes as they quickly dried under the magnificent sun. Be sure to keep your fluids up here and continually apply sunscreen as the sun can be dangerous. A 200m walk upstream in the creek brings you to the most beautiful little natural pool, just below head hight. It was fantastic to have the day free to explore the surrounding area (be sure to go in pairs) and relax in the sunshine. The porters entertained us with a game of touch rugby and later returned from hunting with a wild boar. The spirits of our entire group were sky high with this rest. Under the energising glow of the full moon we celebrated the birthday of another trek member, more angelic singing and a specially made cake was much appreciated. The perfect way to end a perfect day.

“Good morning everyone” greeted us earlier than normal as we prepared for the hard days trek that lay ahead. A reenergised A Team left Agulago before the sun was even up. We walked along the muddy banks of the Brown river before crossing it and making our way through a swampy trail. Be sure to step in the footsteps of your porter, or the person in front, as what looks like a little bit of mud can actually be a pit that comes half way up your leg!!! The challenge of the Maguli Range was our next task. The range tests even the fittest of climbers as a series of 14 false peaks led to an almost vertical climb to the top of the range. Supporting everyone through this was critical to our success and a well earned rest awaited us at the top of the range. From here it was on to Old Naro, another biscuit bombing site during the war, where breathtaking views spread all the way back to Naduri.

More steep, muddy hills followed and at times it was almost a vertical climb. We passed vast village gardens before arriving at Naro Gap. From Naro Gap the trail was reasonably steep all the way down to the Japanese ladder and camp site. Many weapon pits lined the ladder all the way down to the camp, after 66 years they are still clearly visible all the way along the trail. After a rest here we set off again, the angelic voices of our porters echoed in the background as we began a small climb up another ridge to the site of Japanese trenches. We stopped again here to look around and take another well earned break. It was then on to Dump 88 and then Ofi creek for lunch. Getting there wasn’t easy as it was a near vertical decent to the river and the trail was slippery and muddy. A swim in the river provided much need relief for aches and pains.

After lunch the hill out of Ofi creek was a killer followed by yet another steep muddy climb down to Iorabawa village. Along the way we stopped at Iorabawa Ridge, the site of the furthest Japanese camps on their advance to Moresby, and saw many Australian and Japanese bunkers. We also stopped at the old site of Australian headquarters.

Arriving at Iorabawa village was spectacular. The campsite is perched on the edge of a mountain range and allows for magnificent views of a Papua New Guinean sunset which we watched as a group. There was an open shower at the campsite allowing the wash of aching bodies as well as filthy clothes and mud encrusted shoes. Later that night we were again treated to the sensational strains of the boys (porters).

“Good morning everyone”, again it was time to dress, pack and eat before heading off on our second last day. By now we had all had so much fun, despite the aches and pains, that none of us actually wanted to finish. A steep climb down through a muddy trail surrounded by bamboo clumps led us to Ua Ule Creek. It was here that we changed into our water shoes and prepared for the 20 odd river crossing that lay ahead. Although the cool water was a welcome relief for tired and blistered feet, the slippery rocks proved a challenge for some. The porters were remarkably skilled at jumping from rock to rock, but don’t try that yourself. Stick to walking in the water and it will guarantee that you will make it through to the end of the day. Walking through Ua Ule Creek was magical. Rushing water, jungle sounds and picturesque scenery provided the best relaxation experience of the entire trail. It will be one of the most pleasant walks you will ever take. It is also extremely important to stick close to the group, guide or a porter during this time as Ua Ule Creek contains many different paths and it is quite easy to get lost along the way. Little campsites are scattered along the creek and offer a tranquil place to rest. As you walk through the area keep a look out for white plastic markers in the trees, they are remnants of war to which signal wire was attached.

It was then time to put our boots back on as the trail ahead was muddy and reasonably steep for the next one and a half hours. It was then a short stop at the bottom of Imata Ridge where we refilled our camelbacks and wet our heads under a pristine waterfall and prepared for the challenge to the summit. The almost vertical, muddy, slippery ascent proved extremely challenging for most in the stifling heat and humidity. Be sure to avoid stepping on any tree roots as a slip could see you slide back own the ridge. At the top of Imata Ridge we stopped for another well earned rest and it was here that a handful of trekkers wept with exhaustion. The Japanese made it no further than the ridge as by now fresh Australian forces had arrived to assist in the Kokoda campaign. The climb down from the gap is almost as challenging as the climb up. Your legs become accustomed to the ascent, the decent shocks the knees and they feel somewhat stiff. The decent runs parallel to the original “Golden Staircase” which has long since rotted away. It’s astounding to think that this was the same spot that the Australian troops lugged a massive mountain gun up to the top of Imata Ridge.

We stopped for lunch at Dump 66 and were treated to a talk on Papua New Guinean culture from our trek master. To hear his story was inspiring but above all, life changing. There was also a stunning swimming spot there too but be sure to take your stick with you as it was a slipper walk back up to the grassed area. At Dump 66 local villages sold soft drinks and chips for 2-5K.

We then continued on our way, crossing a series of small creeks before arriving at our final camp site on the edge of Goldie River. Luckily for us the river was quite low and therefore, although slippery, it was easy to cross. At times the Goldie River can be above waist hight and combined with the strong current it becomes difficult to cross. Our campsite was on the other side of the river and after setting up for the night it was time for a swim and a wash in the river. The river was quite shallow at the bottom of our camp but a short walk upstream revealed a natural pool that was well about head height. The campsite was the only one on the trail set up on dirt so be sure to take a pair of shoes down to the river with you.

Later that night we had the bonfire of all bonfires, while singing and dancing to the sweet sounds of the porters. Soft drink was walked in from Ower’s, although it was also on sale at Goldie along with chips and cigarettes, and chicken legs were barbecued in the coals of the fire. It was a perfect way to spend our last night on the trail. Many stayed up chatting the night away, recalling stories of the past 8 days.

“Good morning everyone” greeted us for the last time as we woke up, dressed, packed and gathered for breakfast together for the last time. An hour or so of extreme steep climbing, exposed to the heat of the sun, and we were at Ower’s Corner. We’d finally made it. Many cried and others wanted to turn back and keep on trekking. What had seemed to take so long to arrive was finally over. After many photos under the Ower’s gateway, with the range we’d just conquered, it was time to farewell the modern day Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels, our Kokoda Spirit porters. Over 9 days you can become friends with your porter, they’re never far from your side, and saying goodbye was another emotional experience. Everyone on our trek handed over most of their possessions to their porter, after all we are so blessed and privileged that to be able to give them things was little to us. Sleeping bags, shoes, socks, pillows, shirts, camelbacks and anything else we no longer needed was passed on. They were truly grateful.

One last, steep walk up to the truck and we were off. Looking back at the range as we drove off, I took the time to reflect on the past 9 days, the best experience and the greatest adventure of my life. The history, the culture and the friends I made along the way, combined to make it the most unbelievable time.

Our final destination, a fitting end to the trail, was a visit to the Bomana War Cemetery. It was here that the realities of the war hit home, the brutality of the Kokoda trail it all its glory. Row upon row of simple, white, war grave headstones stood nestled in the pristine grounds. Walking around the cemetery I couldn’t help but notice the ages of our young Diggers, 19, 20, 21, most under 25. At the top of the cemetery stands a monument, in scripted with many names, dedicate to those whose bodies remain buried along the trail, the jungle their final resting place.

Driving back to Gateway was passed through the many suburbs of Moresby, a stark contrast from the picturesque trail. Many beaming faces, waves and “hellos” followed in our wake all the way back to Gateway. With the high heat and humidity a swim in the pool was refreshing. We were then given the choice of staying at the hotel or going to New Guinea Art and the markets. New Guinea Art had many wonderful wooden carvings, paintings and jewellery on offer while the markets sold an assortment of things.

Back at the hotel it was time to shower and get ready to head out to the yacht club for dinner. A dress code does exist at the club so be sure to take along a nice outfit. After 9 days in the jungle, covered in mud, dirt and sweat, it was almost strange to see everyone dress up. A fantastic night was had by all at the yacht club and was carried on back at the bar at Gateway.

Our flight left early the next morning, stories, phone numbers and e-mail addresses were exchanged before boarding. The experience of Kokoda bonds a group. It challenges you physically, mentally and spiritually. It is something you can not understand unless you do it yourself. Do it!!

Visit http://www.kokodaspirit.com

Kokoda "Coast to Coast Challenge"

2008-09-05T08:42:00.007+10:00

Kokoda Spirit launches the inaugural "Coast to Coast Challenge" across PNG.

Are you looking for the ultimate adventure challenge?

KOKODA SPIRIT

THE GREATEST ADVENTURE CHALLENGE

“COAST TO COAST CHALLENGE”

BIKE RIDE-KOKODA TRACK-BIKE RIDE BUNA-PORT MORESBY

KOKODA TRACK PNG

6-14 NOVEMBER 2008

Come and join us as we undertake the first crossing from Coast to Coast by bike riding and walking the complete length of the Kokoda Track from Buna on the North Coast to Port Moresby on the South Coast.

Our Coast to Coast Challenge will be the greatest adventure and challenge of your life, come and join us! There are limited places and a high fitness and Endurance level is required.

This Challenge is also supporting the launch of the “Spirit Foundation”

To find out more contact Wayne Wetherall at Kokoda Spirit kokodaspirit@bigpond.com or 07 54452758 or check out our web site http://www.kokodaspirit.com/

Kokoda Spirit Announces the Spirit Foundation

2008-09-05T08:36:00.004+10:00

Spirit Foundation

The Spirit Foundation principle focus is on the development of education programs and education opportunities for the people along Kokoda and Papua New Guinea.

The Spirit foundation believes that investment in education is essential for social and economic change in PNG. Over ninety five percent (95%) of PNG children/students drop out of the PNG education system. Our focus is to identify and assist these students to have access to education and employment skills.

The Spirit Foundation was created with a desire to assist the people along the track with real and achievable educational and vocational opportunities. The Foundation is supported by the management of Kokoda Spirit and a large number of trekkers who have walked the track. These trekkers have returned from PNG with a real desire to put something back into the country and the people along the track.

The Spirit Foundation provides scholarships to children in PNG predominantly from the Kokoda Track, Oro and Central Provinces region and of Kiorai or Orokaivan descent to help them to attend elementary, primary and secondary school. The Spirit Foundation will also continue funding and support of the students as they progress through University, College or Vocational training. The selected students are those whose families cannot normally afford to send them to school but who have demonstrated promising academic progress in their studies thus far. Scholarship students are selected on a basis of need, effort and achievement.

The Spirit Foundation is also providing school resources and supplies to all of the primary and elementary schools along the Kokoda Track. The Spirit Foundation will also support the “School Mates Reading Program” in the Villages along the Kokoda Track. The “School Mates Reading Program” is a home reader style program where trekkers are invited to support an hour of their time on their trek to read to the children in the Villagers.

The Spirit Foundation will also be providing funding for educational programs and resources to selected secondary schools. The secondary schools that the Spirit Foundation will sponsor provide education to more than 2800 students throughout the Oro and Central provinces whilst the primary and elementary schools service over 800 local village children when the schools are operating effectively.

The Spirit Foundation will fund a new scholarship program for students that show outstanding potential in education and leadership. This sponsorship will carry on throughout their senior high school and university years and they will be given a number of leadership, educational and community oriented opportunities. The aim of this new project is to discover and foster PNG’s future leaders.

The Spirit Foundation is committed to ensuring that the people of PNG and predominantly the people along the Kokoda Track have an ongoing opportunity for access to education and vocational training. These opportunities are essential for the ongoing development of social and economic change along the track and in PNG.

For more information regarding the Spirit Foundation check out our web site or Contact Wayne at Kokoda Spirit kokodaspirit@bigpond.com or Contact Kevin at Kevin@kokodaspirit.com 07 54452758

Visit http://www.kokodaspirit.com

Kokoda Mystery Solved

2008-09-05T08:22:00.003+10:00

The mystery of the "Hanging Aussie airman" has been revealed as 'just a branch'

An Australian trekking party's hopes of having found remains of a World War II airman hanging from a tree on the Kokoda Track have been dashed – in fact they discovered a moss-covered branch.

Australian Defence Force staff from the Australian High Commission in Port Moresby today reached the isolated site on the Kokoda Track in Papua New Guinea to check on the sighting, but found no human remains.

"While the location near Kagi on Mt Bellamy is below a flight path that was commonly used by allied aircraft during WWII sorties, the find has been confirmed by ADF staff as a moss-covered branch," Defence said tonight.

It appears the branch has broken off the main tree and fallen across some vines, giving the impression of a body."

Kokoda Spirit discovered the full skeletal remains of 4 Japanese Soldiers earlier in the year along the Kokoda Track. These remains are still on the Kokoda Track. We have been in constant contact with the Japanese Embassy about the recovery of the remains. Hopefully before the start of the wet season we will be able to relocate the remains back to Japan.

Visit http://www.kokodaspirit.com

Trekking Benefits Along the Kokoda Track

2008-05-31T17:47:00.003+10:00

Responsible Sustainable Eco-Tourism Strategy

Travel brings benefits both to the traveller and the countries visited-offering opportunities to learn about different cultures creating jobs and contributing to economic development. However, tourism has its negative impact too- it can erode cultures, alter the natural environment and quickly lead to the exploitation of local communities.

Kokoda Spirit believes passionately in responsible travel and has promoted it right from the start. Kokoda Spirit is committed to the development of sustainable eco-trekking along the Kokoda Track. This commitment will enable us to assist the local Koiari and Orokaiva people develop skills and experience to gain employment and develop eco-tourism business across the Kokoda Track. We are also committed to developing and implementing health and education programs to assist the people across the track.

We believe people who work for Kokoda Spirit should be treated fairly, paid a fair wage, are supplied with adequate trekking gear, have a safe work environment, have access to health and education programs and further career opportunities.

We also believe that we should also learn and respect the culture and the customs of the country we are visiting so that we do not offend local people.

We ensure that local people benefit economically from trekking by employing them as porters, cooks, leaders and guides. We also train our staff in hospitality, customer service, and first aid and assist them with both Education and health.

Kokoda Spirit runs community programs across the track to help with the distribution of school books and first aid kits.

We have also trained some of the local villagers to bake bread, scones etc and encouraged the locals to introduce a laundry service for the trekkers to further improve their income.

We are also working with the local landowners to prepare local meals and brew local coffee for the trekkers for market value pricing.

We also contribute to the clean up the Kokoda Track campaign and educate Landowners to the best locations of guest houses and latrines. We also purchase our food locally and eat locally in village and family run guest houses ensuring that the locals benefit economically.

We also minimise our impact on the environment by travelling in small groups, reducing waste and offsetting our carbon emissions.

Go with a Local

Trekking Kokoda is all about getting to the heart and soul of the Kokoda Track and discovering what really makes it tick. Not only is ‘going local’ the best way for you to have a real travel experience, but working with the local people and their businesses means that the economic benefit derived from your trek stays with the local community.

One of the main reasons many travellers choose Kokoda Spirit is the fact we exclusively use tour leaders who were born or raised along the Kokoda Track. Their local knowledge keeps them one step ahead of the non local guides. They are highly qualified and trained and English speaking, and their intimate knowledge of the Kokoda Track enables them to unlock doors and show you things that you wouldn’t otherwise find.

Travelling with a local leader means that you enjoy a uniquely local perspective, meeting your leader’s friends and family along the track. Aside from the benefit to you, the traveller, we are proud to say that by employing locals, we are providing income, training and a career to local people.

A lot of trekking companies talk about responsible travel but employ ‘outsiders’. This deprives locals of the economic benefits of tourism. With Kokoda Spirit, you can trek knowing that the money you spend directly benefits your leader, the porters and their families and the local community.

In as many ways as we can, we support local businesses and communities in our travels, it’s the ethical way. It is the only way to get a true understanding of PNG and the Kokoda Track. We know at Kokoda Spirit that we are far from perfect, but we are trying very hard to minimise our impact on the Kokoda Track, while delivering an exceptional eco-trekking experience.

We will continue to work with the local people in PNG and along the Kokoda Track to ensure every one benefits from this rich and rewarding experience that is the Kokoda Track.

World Heritage - Kokoda Tourism Workshop

2008-05-30T10:23:00.004+10:00

Visit http://www.kokodaspirit.com/
Kokoda Tourism Workshop
In April I was invited to attend the Kokoda Initiative Tourism Stakeholder Workshop in Canberra. The workshop provided an opportunity for consultation and discussion between the Australian Government and some key stakeholders involved with the Kokoda Track and Tourism. This workshop was conducted in the context of developing a Kokoda initiative.
The workshop structure was as follows.
1) Update on developments to date with Kokoda Initiative
2) Presentation on Australia’s experience of complex management arrangements for protected areas.
3) Discussion on options and priorities for including in a sustainable development program for communities along the Track.
4) The workshop also focused on the broader aspects of development, community needs and management issues along Kokoda, rather than particular issues such as mining.

World Heritage Application
The Papuan New Guinea Government has also commenced the first stages of its application for World Heritage for the Owen Stanley Ranges. This application also includes the area along the Kokoda Track. The application has been done on the unique Bio-diversity of the area.

Tourism Industry Working Group Membership
Wayne Wetherall from Kokoda Spirit is working with a select group of operators, with the assistance of the Australian Government to develop a Code of Conduct for the Kokoda Track Tour Operators. This group will research existing Codes of Conducts, distribute information, collate ideas and information from the group, write a draft code and distribute to the group for consensus then distribute it to the wider Tourism group.

Kokoda Track Anzac Teks

2008-04-09T20:46:00.003+10:00

Anzac Treks Kokoda

Hi Guys,

The Anzac treks across Kokoda are now upon us. Please ensure you have done all your preparations and doubled checked your requirements for your trek across Kokoda. It has been raining on the Kokoda Track this week, so make sure you have adequate wet weather gear. It is also important to remember to bring some energy snacks along as you burn up a lot of energy on the Kokoda Track.

Good luck to all trekkers as they take on the challenge of the Kokoda Trail.

I will see you all in Port Moresby and along the Kokoda Track.

Cheers,

Wayne