LeCouteur Miniatures by Jill Cooter

MYSTIC PENDULUMS

2009-03-18T14:42:00.008+10:30

This Mystic Pendulum is approx 35mm in Diam. It has been handpainted with Gold Lustre.

This is my own personal Mystic Pendulum. I find it fun to use.

This Pendulum is approx. 35ml in Diam and has been handpainted in shades of blue lustre.

Lilac was used as the base colour on this Pendulum then copper lustre was dispersed over the top.

This Pendulum is approx 35mm in Diam

This Pendulum is smaller - 24mm in Diam. The lustre colourings are Gold on Gold. The first firing of gold comes out of the kiln as a lovely blue grey. A second coat of gold has been dispersed onto the Pendulum. By adding a second coat the gold lustre then actually fires gold.

THESE EXQUISITE MYSTIC PENDULUMS ARE MADE FROM THE FINEST PORCELAIN. THE PENDULUMS HAVE BEEN HANDPAINTED USING BEAUTIFUL SHADES OF LUSTRE

Drawing Room 3 - Curviture

2006-10-19T11:15:00.000+09:30

This motive is in the curviture of the roof.

This is the motive that I have put either side of the vase of flowers.

This motive is still within the curviture of the roof.

French Drawing Room No 3

2006-10-16T09:21:00.000+09:30

This is the 3rd of my French Drawing Rooms - still under construction. Mirror and pictures need to be added together with the doors.

Top of the main panel on the back wall.

This motive is at the bottom of the main panel.

Reception Room - Back Wall

2006-10-13T08:47:00.000+09:30

This is the motive used at the top of the main panel on the back wall.

The motive used on the main panel at the bottom. This is a mirror image of the top motive.

Reception Room

2006-10-13T08:31:00.000+09:30

This is the Reception Room. The colours used in this room are Pink and Blue Green. This room is still under construction - Mirrors and pictures need to go up.

Motive that is used all the way around the top of the wall.

These are the panels on the back wall of the Reception Room.

Banquet Room - Curviture Panel

2006-10-09T08:51:00.000+09:30

French Drawing Rooms have walls and a ceiling but in between is a panel that is curved. This is one of the motives in this curviture.

Another design within the curviture.

A view of the two together.

Banquet Room - Wall Designs

2006-10-08T10:35:00.000+09:30

This design features on the larger panels of the back wall and side walls of the Banquet Room.

This motive is the feature on the narrow wall panels on the back wall and side walls of the Banquet Room.

Banquet Room -Ceiling

2006-10-08T10:21:00.000+09:30

This is the ceiling of the Banquet Room

This is the large panel on the ceiling. The decor has been made using porcelain dots, dashes and curved pieces. I have adhered the dots and dashes with a wood glue.

This is the design on the smaller panels of the Banquet Room ceiling. The dots and dashes have been fired in a Kiln to 1200c.
They are solid - durable and very long lasting.

French Drawing Room - The Banquet Room

2006-10-07T09:42:00.000+09:30

Before anything happens this is a shell of my French Drawing Rooms. These rooms were made for me by Vincent Talbot - a superb creative craftsman.

This panel is the back wall of the Banquet Room.

This panel is the side wall of the Banquet Room.

French Drawing Room 1 - The Beginning

2006-10-06T09:56:00.000+09:30

The 'beginning' photos are actually of French Drawing Room
No. 3. This is just to give you an idea of how the tiny decor pieces were put together. These French Drawing Rooms are in the
1/12th Scale.

The tiny decor pieces are made of Porcelain - all put together one piece at a time. The wall panels are made of wood purchased from a Dolls House Supply Shop.

This Panel will eventually be the back wall of French Drawing Room No. 3.

Still much to be done but it is taking shape.

French Drawing Room 1

2006-10-06T04:48:00.000+09:30

I am making three French Drawing Rooms. All still need work to be done on them. Mirrors need to go up - doors need to be made and walls need paintings hung. This is a step by step to show how the French Drawing Rooms were made.

STEP BY STEP - ROSE 13

2006-10-03T08:30:00.000+09:30

Final Wipe Out: For the final petal I create my own size petal. Don't have this petal hanging down too low - I do place it in between Petals 9 and 10.

Final Softening for the last Petal: For this petal softening I use Stroke No. 1 - the straight stroke - I gently bring this softening stroke half way onto the petal. This creates the illusion that the petal is turning downwards.

THE FINISHED ROSE: As the firings progress I do bring in other petals on the rose bowl.

I hope you have enjoyed this Step by Step on Painting a Rose:

STEP BY STEP - ROSE 12

2006-10-03T08:09:00.000+09:30

Ninth Wipe Out: I have turned the rose completely upside down to wipe out this petal. Starting from the outer edge of the petal bring the wipe out line towards the centre point of the rose.

Softening the 9th Wipe Out: I have turned the rose around slightly to achieve the softening on this petal. Using a 'backward comma' take your brush to the edge of the wipe out line and gently bring in towards the bowl of the rose.

Tenth Wipe Out : I have used two wipe out lines for this petal. I have turned the plate so that the rose is more upside down.

Softening the 10th Wipe Out: Notice the angle of the rose this time - I have turned my plate slightly to a different angle. Make sure that there is no build up of paint on your brush - press out excess onto an absorbent cloth if there is. From the outer wipe out line bring your brush into the centre point of the rose.

STEP BY STEP - ROSE 11

2006-10-02T19:41:00.000+09:30

Wipe Out Number 7: I now start on the outside petals. I usually take two strokes to create these outside petals. A small stroke first to create the top of the petal and a longer stroke to give the illusion that each petal will follow an invisible line and join up at the centre point of the rose.

This is the stroke that I use to soften each of the outer petals of the rose.

Softening Stroke No. 7: I have turned my plate so the rose is on its side. Using the action in the photo above I come to the edge of the wipe out line and gently pull the paint towards the rose bowl. This can be done a couple of times if you don't get a strong enough highlight. The softening stroke is a comma but my brush is not held in a flat position - it is held more upright - in the diamond positon.

Wipe Out No. 8: My plate is still turned so that the rose is side on. Again I use two strokes to create this petal. I use a shorter stroke for the top of the petal and a longer stroke to give the illusion that the petal will eventually connect to the central point of the rose.

Softening Stroke 8: I use the same procedure to soften this petal as I did for the softening of stroke No. 7.

STEP BY STEP - ROSE 10

2006-10-02T19:03:00.000+09:30

Fifth Wipe Out: This time I have placed a petal on either side in between wipe out No. 3 and 4. This gives the appearance that you are looking down into the throat. Again I soften these wipe outs.

Sixth Wipe Out: This wipe out comes on an angle across the rose bowl.
Again I soften this wipe out.

Highlighting Wipe Out No. 6: I have now turned my plate so that the rose is upside down. I press out any excess paint that has built up on my brush and using stroke No. 2 - half a 'C' - I come from the bottom of the rose bowl up to the bottom of the sixth wipe out line. Sometimes I do this highlight a couple of times but each time I always press out any excess paint that may be on my brush.

STEP BY STEP - ROSE 9

2006-10-02T18:45:00.000+09:30

Fourth Wipe Out: This stroke curves around to make the bowl have a rounded shape. I leave a slight gap between the third wipe out and wipe out No. 4.

I also soften this stoke by placing my brush at the bottom edge of the wipe out line and pulling gently towards the centre of the throat.

STEP BY STEP - ROSE 8

2006-10-01T20:40:00.000+09:30

Wipe Out Tools: These are the tools that I use to define the Rose Petals.
As I mainly paint miniatures I tend to use the smaller of the wipe out tools.

First Wipe Out: I start with the throat of the rose by placing two small strokes into the centre.

Second Wipe Out: These two wipe out lines go at the top of the Rose and are in balance with the two smaller strokes in the throat.

Second Wipe Out - Softening: The wipe out tools leave a rather hard line so I always like to soften them. To do this I again press my brush out onto my absorbent cloth so I have a dry brush. I place my brush at the bottom of the wipe out line and gently pull down towards the throat of the Rose.

Third Wipe Out: These two wipe out lines go either side of the top wipe out lines. I start these lines approximatey half way along the top lines.

Softening Third Wipe Out:
Again I use the same procedure - press out excess paint from my brush onto an absorbent cloth and coming back to the bottom of the wipe out line gently pull colour in towards the throat of the Rose.

STEP BY STEP - ROSE 7

2006-10-01T20:08:00.000+09:30

Softening Edges of Petals:
After the background has been framed up around the rose the edges are a little sharp so I like to soften them and filter the green and the turquoise shades out into the background further. It will not matter if the background colour filters onto any of the rose petals.

To soften the edges - I use my brush with colour on it - probably turquoise because that is the last colour that I used. I squeeze out what colour there is on my brush onto an absorbent cloth. This will leave the brush drier than it was.
Again turning my plate and using Stroke No. 1 I gently bring colour onto the petals and out from the petals. As I do this paint builds up onto my brush again - so I press the colour out onto my absorbent cloth - and start with a dry brush again. I have to keep my brush fairly dry otherwise I won't get that 'soft look'.

The rose petals are still visible but now they look ever so much softer.

STEP BY STEP - ROSE 6

2006-10-01T19:39:00.000+09:30

Background: When doing the background I load a light green onto my brush as well as a medium shade green. It will be the medium shade of green that will be next to the rose petal. I use stroke No. 3 - the comma stroke - to frame up around the rose.

Notice the direction of the arrows - I keep turning my plate - again using the comma stroke - to put the background around the rose.

Again the plate has been turned so that the comma stroke is coming towards me.

Notice that I haven't joined the two shades of green together - I have left a gap here and there. This is so I can introduce another shade in between. It just breaks the monotoney of using all green.

For the colour in between I have used a shade of Turquoise. Again I have used the comma stroke to do this.

STEP BY STEP OF A ROSE 5

2006-10-01T18:49:00.000+09:30

Second Petal: Notice how I have turned the plate around so that the second petal is coming directly towards me. When painting on porcelain always turn your plate so that brush strokes are coming towards you.

Third Petal: Petal No. 3 is also a comma but this time the plate is turned so that the comma stroke comes back into the rose bowl.

Fourth Petal: Petal No. 4 is still a comma - to get the stroke coming towards me I have had to turn the plate around again. This stroke also comes back into the rose bowl.

Fifth Petal: Petal No. 5 is Stroke No. 2 - half a 'C' stroke. The plate has been turned again so that this stroke is coming towards me.

STEP BY STEP OF A ROSE 4

2006-10-01T13:02:00.000+09:30

The Petals: The first petal is placed using the comma stroke. I have painted the first petal away from the bowl purely so you can see the direction of the stroke.

Each Petal surrounding the rose will be painted away from the bowl for this reason - just to show the
direction of the stroke

Naturally all petals would be painted framing the bowl of the rose.

STEP BY STEP OF A ROSE 3

2006-10-01T12:52:00.000+09:30

The Throat: For the throat I use Stroke No. 5 - the Diamond Stroke - I would probably use 4 or 5 Diamond Strokes to fill in the throat of the rose.

STEP BY STEP OF A ROSE -2

2006-10-01T12:41:00.000+09:30

Direction: The first thing I place on my plate or tile is the direction in which the rose is going to face. These 3 strokes are showing 3 different directions.

Rose Bowl: After deciding the direction of my rose I paint in the Bowl using Stroke No. 2 - the 'C' Stroke - this time making the letter 'C'.

STEP BY STEP OF A ROSE

2006-09-30T19:59:00.000+09:30

Strokes:

Stroke 1 is made by pulling your brush straight towards you.

Stroke 2 is made as if you were going to write the letter 'C' but in this case I only do half of the letter 'C'.

Stroke 3 is a comma - pull the brush straight towards you and flick the end as you would a comma.

Stroke 4 is used for the base of a leaf. It is a series of Stroke 2 making the letter 'C' with what I call a diamond stroke on the end.

Stroke 5 is shaped like a diamond. For this stroke hold the brush on the side and pull towards you.