The Rock + Run Blog

Bags for Free Postage Scheme

2008-05-08T15:19:00.014Z

Want to save on postal fees when returning goods for refund or exchange whilst helping the environment?

Over the last few months, at Rock + Run, we have been discussing and chewing over various ways of recycling/reusing plastic packaging. As you can imagine being entirely mail order based we go through a fair amount.

We have, for some time, been reusing the packaging which we receive from our suppliers, in the shape of bubble wrap and larger foam packaging with which we protect your more fragile orders; we also strip down cardboard boxes for use in packaging books. Whilst this does help to reduce our waste output we are still unable to get “green” when comes to the mainstay of our external packaging.

Currently we purchase a series of small to medium sized plastic parceling bags for the majority of our orders dispatched via Royal Mail. After numerous discussions and trials we have discovered that we can more than satisfactorily pack your goods using standard supermarket carrier bags (30x40cm) if we double bag (minimum) and well tape each order.

Packaging Process Using Re-Used Bags (click image for larger version)

Despite the current trend toward reusing carrier bags (or purchasing “bags for life”) when visiting the supermarket, anyone who visits their local Asda, Sainsbury’s or Tesco will realize that there are still 1000’s of new carrier bags being used each day. On realizing this we thought that if these bags could be obtained in reasonable numbers we would not only be able to re-use but also reduce the need for more new bags into the system.

Of course whilst everyone wants to do their bit for the environment a little incentive always helps to get people moving in the right direction. As such we are going to trial a scheme by which our customers can save money on goods exchanges, in the form of free postage. Here’s how the scheme will work…

Scheme Details
The need for returning goods (for an alternate size etc.) is common when it comes to online purchase. Because of this an obvious incentive for the customer is to receive free or discounted return postage (for the exchanged item) or alternatively, in the case of a return for a straight refund, have their original postal fee refunded.

If you wish to take advantage of this please return any (unused) goods as normal including 12 or 25 standard sized (roughly 30x40cm) carrier bags in the package. For security reasons the bags must be at least partially opaque (as shown in the image on the right). If you send us 12 bags we will automatically credit you for half your postal costs (£1.98) and if you send us 25 bags we will automatically refund your entire postal fee (£3.95). Please do not send us more than 25 bags as we are unable to credit more than the £3.95 offered.

If our initial scheme is successful in terms of take-up and practicality we will look to instigate a secondary scheme where the customer can receive discount from their product purchases.

If you have any queries don't hesitate to email or call us:
Email: info@rockrun.com
Phone: 015395 64540

X-File #2: Tasmania - Freycinet Peninsula

2008-05-05T12:57:00.015Z

Area & Style of Climbing
Freycinet Peninsula - Sport and Traditional Climbing

Location
Tasmania, East Coast

Overview
The Freycinet Peninsula is the majority land mass of the Freycinet National Park, which also includes the much smaller Schouten Island, on the eastern coast of Tasmania. The climbing centres around a series of granite batholiths and sea cliffs which give one of the nicest climbing areas on the planet, harboring the fairly secret sport crag of the ‘Star Factory’ and the mid grade trad venue of White Water Wall.

Best Time to Go & Conditions
The area is good all year round, but spring, summer and autumn (September through to May) are your best bets for pleasant climbing conditions. There is always somewhere shady to climb and the locality of the sea and pristine beaches means that if it’s too hot to climb then the day can be better spent remembering why you’re on holiday in the first place. If you’re a hardcore sport climber then primo mid-summer conditions come after 2pm, so you can guiltlessly lie in. That said if you're after the best nick then it may be best to visit in winter, when crisp sunny days with plenty of breeze offer the best possible conditions. Rainfall for the area is below 50mm per month year round so it is unlikely to be an issue; the west coast of Tasmania is a different story altogether.

The Average Man on Astro Boy F8a+

Getting There
Flights to Australia range from £550 to £750 depending on who you go with and the season, Quantas and British Airways are good places to start. Generally it's best to fly to Melbourne and catch the ferry to Davenport (£35ish) or catch a connecting Virgin Blue flight to Hobart (again £35ish) and hire a car (From £130/$270 per week).

Accessibility
Due to Tasmania's small population (half of which lives in the vicinity of Hobart) public transport links to Freycinet are not great, so as pointed out above a hire car is pretty essential. The drive is about 2 hours from Davenport and 2.5 from Hobart. The roads are always quiet, however hitching can be an option as people are actually pretty friendly in Tassie. The A3 road leads to the C302 then look out for signs to Coles Bay.

Accommodation & Provisions
There is a range of accommodation in the area, White Water Wall has its own basic campsite, this is where most climbers stay. The author just slept on the beach as it was so nice, however this probably isn’t possible throughout the holiday season as the rangers may move you on. The area boasts some outstanding hotels too, if your flush enough. There is even a harbor for yachts which marine lovers can charter in Hobart.

The Hazards

Guide Book/s
A general guide for the whole of the Freycinet Peninsula, covering most the areas sufficiently, can be found here - Freycinet Peninsula Online Guides
The same site offers a number of similar guides to the rest of Tassie - Tasmanian Online Guides
Some of the most extensive areas have been converted in to PDF's, including the best topo to the Star Factory created by those in the know - Tasmania PDF Guides
*Note: If anything the stars on these guides are an understatement
There is an actual guidebook to the area - Freycinet Peninsula, A Climber's Guide. Published by the University of Tasmania Climbing Club and the Climbers Club of Tasmania 1995. Although this may be out of print?

Grade Spread & Recommended Routes
The Star Factory at present has only 56 routes and really you need to be climbing at least F7a to get the most out of it.
The Whitewater Wall (Coastal crags) area has 100's of routes which are magnificent however mainly in the easy to mid grades - up to F7a.
Pick of routes at "The Factory" would be Anti Matter F7a, Power to the Percolator F7c+, Simply the Best F7c+, Astroboy F8a+ and The Wizard of Oz F8b+.
At White Water Wall, for me, the stand out routes are No Turn Unstoned F5+ and Baystone Blues F4+.

Gary 'Tassiebrummie' Phillips on Simply the Best F7c+

General Tip/s
If you decide to free-camp in the exquisite public toilet facilities then be aware that they are cleaned at 5 in the morning every day.

Coles Bay has a sumptuous bakery which is more than happy to take your Aussie dollars, it also has some excellent restaurants, more general supplies can be got in Swansea.

If you're camping be aware of possums getting in your food, they may look cute but they are Satan's minions show them no mercy!

White Water Wall

Useful Links
Flights: ebookers.com
Car Hire: carrentals.co.uk
General Aussie news and possibilities of getting a climbing partner: chockstone.org
Tassie’s best climbing website: thesarvo.com

This X-File was authored by 'The Average Man' [pseudonym]

The X-Files

2008-04-29T14:39:00.007Z

As part of our ongoing effort to bring our customers useful articles, reviews and general interest content we have instigated a new feature which we will be developing and expanding over the coming weeks and months – The X-Files.

These mini articles will centre on giving you valuable information on climbing (Alpine, Bouldering, Ice, Sport and Trad) destinations worldwide. They will give a concentrated document, based on a specific formula, eventually offering an easily comparable database to destinations across the globe.

The formula of each X-File will consist of the following invaluable information for when planning a trip:

* Area & Style of Climbing
* Location
* Best Time To Go & Conditions
* Getting There
* Accessibility
* Accommodation & Provisions
* Guide Book/s
* Grade Spread & Recommended Routes
* General Tips
* Useful Links

For an idea of what this will offer you feel free to check out our pilot file:
X-File #1: Kjugekull Bouldering

Obviously these bullet point style mini articles do not offer quite the same depth as a full blown article and the “X-Files” are in no way intended to replace our more in-depth offerings, but are foreseen as a concise, useful and more easily comparable addition to our ever increasing content.

X-File #1: Kjugekull Bouldering

2008-04-29T12:28:00.016Z

Area & Style of Climbing
Kjugekull - Bouldering

Location
Sweden, South East (Europe)

Overview
A superbly picturesque granite bouldering area, featuring many fantastic fontainebleau-esque blocs and traverses (over 800 problems) on often huge glacially worn granite boulders. The area is situated in a deciduous wood, and in some parts overflows in to meadows and some hillside settings.

Best Time To Go & Conditions
The best conditions generally occur from late October through to March. It is possible to climb throughout the year, although the Spring, Summer and even Autumn can be pretty warm. The maximum rainfall occurs in late summer, and the minimum in early spring. The boulders dry quickly after rain, especially those in the meadows.

Getting There
The cheapest option is to fly from Stanstead to Copenhagen via easyjet.com, prices range from £50 return upwards. The nearest airport to the climbing is actually Malmo (Sweden), although, at the time of writing, none of the low budget airlines flies here.

Accessibility
The climbing is situated approximately 2.5 hours (by car) from Copenhagen (Denmark) airport so you will need a vehicle. Once at the campsite the majority of the climbing is only a 10 minute drive away.

Accommodation & Provisions
Ivö Camping is located on Ivön island, a few miles northeast of Kjugekull in the Ivösjön. The camping is roughly 100Skr per night (£8.50), alternatively you can rent a 4 bed cabin for 295Skr per night (£25). The main office opens from 10am-6pm all year round, and has a small shop containing a basic range of food and drinks. For a greater selection of products there are a number of larger supermarkets on the outskirts of Kristianstad, around 20km (15mins) away. As the camping is on an island there is a small car ferry to access it, this is free and operates pretty much 24:7.

Guide Book/s
Title: Kjugekull Med Mera / Price: €44.50 (Currently unavailable in the UK)

Grade Spread
Over 800 problems from Font3 to Font8a+, with best problems being in the mid-grades. A few of my favorite problems included, Moby Dick 7b+ (see image below), Sonic (7b+), Survivaldildo (6a+), Coluseeum (6c+), Mojo (7a+), and Monolith (7a+).

Useful Tips
The area is located on the edge of a Lakeland province of Sweden; as such summertime can bring an unwanted selection of flies, mosquitoes and other irritating insects.

If you’re partial to a tipple of higher strength alcohol (above 3.5%!) then it may be worth purchasing a bottle on the plane during your outward journey, as higher strength alcohol is much harder to obtain in Sweden than mainland Europe.

The area is also featured in a two decent DVD's. These give a good opportunity to see the area in all is glory and eye up the best lines before your visit. The DVD's are - Tjugo Pa Kjuge and Swedish Meatballs.

Relevant Links
Flights: Easyjet.com
Car Hire: CarRentals.co.uk
Guide Book Purchase: Piz Buch & Berg Online Shop
Guide Book Affiliated Website: www.kjuge.nu
Campsite: Ivö Camping

Review: Five Ten Camp 4

2008-04-24T10:22:00.009Z

In recent times the approach shoe has broken free from its esoteric climbers-specific categorization and, for many, has taken the place of the lightweight fabric boot – offering instant comfort, better sensitivity and breathability, whilst giving a more street friendly look and still providing a good level of technical performance.

Of course the term “approach shoe” covers a massive spectrum of product, from mass produced generic £20 affairs, to the more technical multi-tasking end market, which range from £65 upwards. Even within the top end bracket there are many sub-categories, with shoe models being specifically tailored to suit differing needs, from warm dry weather to colder wet weather, long walk-ins to scrambling and so on.

Due to our heritage Rock + Run tends to stick to the more technical or climbing applicable approach shoes, that is we generally offer a range of shoes which will get you to the crag but also offer a decent level of performance on the rock. Whether it be jugging up El Cap, scrambling in the Lakes or incorporating a days walking with a few easy solos we like to think we’ll have something to suit.

The Five Ten approach shoe range has always fitted well with our ethos and in the long standing Guide Tennie we have one our best selling footwear models. Over the last couple of years the Five Ten range has seen somewhat of an overhaul and the Guide Tennie is now the sole survivor of the original “sticky rubber” approach shoes that defined a genre.

Of the newer models (Prodigy, Insight, Savant and Camp 4) I have personally hammered a pair of the excellent Prodigy’s into submission and due to their recent demise have moved on to test out the newest edition to the range, the Camp 4. I’ve had my Camp 4’s for around two months and after using them in the UK and Switzerland for walk-in’s, easy climbing (i.e. warming up) and generally hangin’ out, I can honestly say they’re probably the best pair of approach shoes I have ever owned!

Despite the massive popularity of the Guide Tennie it doesn’t really suit my needs. I tend to do a fair bit of walking to get to crags/areas, and as we all know walking any distance in a Britain can involve quite a lot of bog dodging and negotiating wet slippery surfaces. Thus the low profile and dotted tread of the Tennie doesn’t really offer enough beef in the sole or support in the upper.

The Camp 4 is equally suited to standard British walk-in conditions as it is on arid rocky terrains.

Having used the Prodigy on varying terrains (high Sierras, Texan desert, Alpine foothills, Lakeland fells and the Yorkshire moors) and in varying conditions I feel I have a pretty rounded view on what it was suited too and for me, in spite of generally ticking all the boxes of what is a good approach shoe, it had one irritating failing – stability. I found the thickness of the EVA and narrowness of the sole at the rear of the shoe conspired to make for the odd hairy moment on uneven ground, although (having heard reports to the contrary) I am prepared to accept this may have been down a slight incompatibility between myself and the model. In any case there were defiantly at least a few areas in which the shoe could have been improved, step forward the Camp 4…

Fit
Whilst looking quite similar to the Prodigy the Camp 4 purveys a massively superior fit, with instant out-of-the-box comfort and stability. The last seems pretty average in width and volume and should suit most foot types. The heel incorporates Five Ten’s new proprietary technology, a molded PU external heel cage that adds rear-foot support and stability, allowing you to lug heavy loads for long distances, without the need for a regular high-top ankle supporting boot. I found this new feature to be stable and secure, and whilst I’m not convinced this negates the need for high-top boots altogether, it certainly helps in supporting and hold in the foot in place.

Sole/Midsole Unit
The outer sole is the sticky co-molded Stealth C4/S1 with internal shank, similar (but wider) to that used on the Prodigy. This uses an oval plug configuration/pattern on the tread which I found to be equally at home on both boggy and rocky terrain. One of the big concerns often voiced when it comes to sticky rubber sole units is the durability. Interestingly, on my Prodigy’s (which have the same configuration tread and thickness of rubber as the Camp 4) the upper wore out well before the sole was anywhere near wearing smooth. The midsole is a compression molded EVA which gives a good balance between support when walking and sensitivity when climbing/scrambling, although due to the chunkier feel this shoe it is not as suited to actual rock climbing as it’s sleeker cousin, the Guide Tennie.

Construction
The build quality of all the new Five Ten approach shoes seems very good - we haven’t had any returns to date - and a marked improvement from the old days of rapidly delaminating Mountain Masters. The uppers are constructed from good quality Nubuck leather, which offers burley durability and breathability, whilst also being pretty weather resistant. The lacing is a traditional riveted hole set-up which gives longevity, is easily adjustable and offers minimum faf.

The Camp 4 making light work of straightforward scrambles.

Summary
In condensing the above blurb I would conclude by saying that the Camp 4 is an awesomely fitting, keenly priced and well constructed approach shoe. It offers a excellent balance between a walking and climbing/scrambling shoe, but if you’re after something for predominantly the latter activity the more sensitive Guide Tennie may be a better option. If I had to offer one point that could be conceived as a negative it would be the weight (940g-UK9), however, for me personally, this was not an issue.

Read another independent Camp4 review (August 07) on the at Alpinist.com here.
Read another independent Camp4 review (November 07) on the at Alpinist.com here.
Read another independent Camp4 review on the at RockandIce.com here.

Purchase the Five Ten Camp 4 (£68) from Rock + Run here.

Gripmaster Training Tips

2008-04-04T11:11:00.023Z

The exercises provided below have been chosen from a vast array of numerous routines available as those most specific to rock climbing. They are designed to enhance and maintain the physical attributes and strength of both your hands and fingers as well as the general health and athleticism of your mits.

Begin all exercises slowly and use low resistance and few repetitions. Hold each position 3-5 seconds and relax - repeat 5 to 10 times. Little by little increase to 3 sets of 10 (30 reps). When graduating to a higher resistance begin again with 5 to 10 reps and build slowly.

If you experience pain or fatigue – stop immediately. As with any exercise, excessive or incorrect use can lead to pain or injury. Therefore progress slowly and increase reps and resistance very cautious.

Hook Grasp
What it does:
Strengthens the only muscles that bend the fingertips. Especially helpful when the hand is open and you need to hold an object or support your weight with a fingertip hold. Also strengthens longer muscles in the forearm and wrist while stretching smaller muscles in hand for greater motion and endurance.

How to do it:
Place fingertips on individual buttons and position ergonomic palm bar in the palm with the hook over the web space between the thumb and index finger. Keeping fingertips slightly bent, flex all fingers toward the centre of the unit.

Thumb Pinch
What it does:
Provides isolated strength to the thumb and the side of the index finger for a strong lateral hold. Strengthens thumb and index finger for greater stability and coordination.

How to do it:
Place the hook of the ergonomic palm bar on the inside of the bent index finger. With the tip of the thumb slightly bent, flex the thumb on the first button. Note: for increased resistance, flex the thumb tip on the first two buttons at the same time.

Tripod Pinch
What it does:
Assists in holding awkward small pinches.

How to do it:
Place the thumb tip in the centre of the ergonomic base with the index and long fingertips resting on the two centre buttons. Keeping the fingertips bent, flex the thumb and fingers toward the centre of the unit at the same time. Be sure to keep the ring and small fingers bent into the palm during this exercise.

Power Pinch
What it does:
Provides extra power to the small muscles at the base of the thumb and pinky finger to enhance your grasping ability.

How to execute:
Place the hook of the ergonomic base between the ring & pinky fingers and across the base of the pinky finger. Reach across the palm with the thumb to press the button closest to the fingers.

Fingertip Pinch
What it does:
Isolates finger tip motion for the finer movements involving coordination and dexterity of the hand. The quality of finger tip movement allows the climber reach a good level of general pinching strength and dexterity.

How to do it:
Place all finger tips on their own button with the tip of the thumb on the centre of the ergonomic base. Keeping all finger tips bent, flex the thumb and all the fingers toward the centre of the unit at the same time. If you experience pain or fatigue – stop immediately.

Finger Play
What it does:
Allows the fingers to press individually or in various combinations to help improve finger coordination, dexterity and strength to aid in all sports play and object manipulation.

How to do it:
Position Gripmaster in the hand similarly to the hook grasp exercise. Place finger tips on individual buttons, and ergonomic bar in the palm with the hook over the web space between the index finger and thumb. Keeping fingers slightly bent, flex 1-4 digits in varying combinations toward the centre of the unit as if playing an instrument.

Purchase Gripmaster Heavy (£10) here.
Purchase Gripmaster Pro(£15) here.

Review: Arc'Teryx Harnesses 2008

2008-03-26T15:17:00.027Z

Introduction
The Arc’teryx harness range has recently been given a highly anticipated overhaul using their new "Warp Technology" (WST). When Rock + Run asked me to put the R–320 model through its paces I jumped at the chance to see if it lived up to the hype…

The brand Arc’teryx is synonymous with cutting edge design, fabrics and technology but, given the prominence of their illustrious range of outerwear, you may be surprised to learn that they started out making harnesses, back in 1989.

Their ‘vapour’ range pioneered a new heat laminate technology which radically changed construction. Implications of this meant that harnesses could be built stronger, lighter and more comfortable than before.

The company went on to innovate in other areas; waterproof zips, rucksacks and the above mentioned range of clothing, but it’s a relief to find that they have not lost their touch when it comes to the humble climbing harness.

The amount of research and development that must go on at Arc’teryx HQ is staggering, although being owned by corporate giants Salomon probably helps - I expect the budget for R & D is extraordinary.

The R–320 is an ‘all-round’ harness and sits alongside the lighter S–240, for sport climbing, and the A–300a for mountaineering, and the X-350a for ice climbing. A women’s all-round model, the R–280 is also available.

Construction
In a nutshell, ‘warp strength technology’ eliminates the need for padding altogether. Yes, that’s right, this harness has no padding. Your immediate reaction to this revelation may be to stop reading, but if you give me a chance I’ll explain...

The traditional method for building comfort into the harness has always been to sew the narrow webbing belt (which gives the strength) onto a wide band of padding. The padding softens the pressure from the webbing and spreads the load, which means that you feel less like you’re being sliced in half at the waist after a few hours of hanging at belays.

Arcteryx have come up with a more efficient way of spreading the load, by making the webbing belt wider. The webbing belt on the R-320 is as wide as the waist belt, in fact, besides the softshell fabric it’s wrapped in the webbing is pretty much all the waist belt is – just like those old troll ‘centre’ harnesses really, but different...

By working their magic on the structure of the webbing - something to do with removing the vertical fibres and stretching the horizontal ones, the designers have made a thin, contoured, and very strong, waist belt that distributes the load evenly and negates the need for padding.

Comfort
OK, all this sounds very impressive but does it work? I guess that’s the million dollar question.

Comfort is probably my top requirement in a harness, so I decided that a thorough examination was necessary – what better testing ground than the South of France – a sport climber’s paradise.

When working sport routes comfort is paramount, so I was nearly tempted to thrown my old harness in just in case, I was so sceptical that a harness this thin could possibly be comfortable! In fact, on seeing the R-320 for the first time, my friend Tom asked “is that the only harness you brought?!” with an unconvinced look on his face!

Image: Dave Westlake on No Man's Land F7b (Buoux, France)

After spending a couple of sessions working the moves of a route at Buoux I did begin to wonder whether a more padded harness would be better. Although, the R-320 was very comfortable on the whole, I would say that the repeated frigging around involved in this style of climbing might mean I end up using my old harness next time and save the R-320 for when I go for the redpoint. My main reason for this is so my main harness doesn’t get trashed as quickly, rather than any lack of comfort, and all the weight benefits less important in this instance.

This is probably what most dedicated redpointers would do anyway, as it will increase the life of the main harness.

However, for onsighting I thought the R-320 was unparalleled. The range of movement was excellent and I hardly noticed I was wearing a harness. Sitting in the harness and lowering off was also a pleasure, so long periods spent at belays/ abseiling will also be well within its wide remit.

Interestingly, in some ways the lack of padding seems to actually increase comfort. If I’m wearing a harness at all it usually means that it’s fairly warm (being from the South, I don’t like the cold!) so I often find that the padding in other harnesses both insulates and impedes breathability.

I cannot really claim to have tested this theory out yet (it was ‘red-pointing’ weather in Buoux - chilly!), but I imagine hanging out on a sea cliff in the August sun will be a far less clammy experience!

Of course, this also means that the harness takes up considerably less space in your pack – a feature I was grateful of when mine looked like it was going to burst on the way to the airport!

Gear Loops
For me, gear loops are a very important aspect of any harness. I once owned a very nice Petzl harness. The fit was great, it was comfortable and light, but I developed a real dislike for the slanted gear loops.

Although these are OK for sport climbing, I tend to climb more trad routes and I found that gear would get ‘bunched’ at the front. This made it difficult to access and allowed carabiners to get up to all sorts of mischief (clipping to each other mainly).

I disliked this so much that in the end I chopped them off altogether and replaced them with a home made alternative!

Since Petzl introduced them, other companies seem to have moved towards this slanted design (some people obviously like them!). Although the loops on the R–320 have a slight slant, I found them much more useable. The angle is less steep and the shape seems to avoid too much bunching.

The great thing about the gear loops is the fact they are reversible. The loops themselves are fixed, but the thick plastic sheath is removable so if you fancy having the slant going backwards, or want to shave a bit more weight off, it’s not a problem.

Image: Dave reversing the gear loops on his R320

The only slight downside I can see is that they may wear out quicker if you change them regularly, but I think most people would only need to change/ remove them occasionally. Besides, I’m sure they could be replaced if they did wear out or get lost. Actually removing them is a bit ‘fiddly’, but I suppose that gives you confidence that they are unlikely to fall off on their own accord!

Buckles
One thing I did really like about my old Petzl harness was the buckle. As far as I’m aware, Petzl were the first brand to use the kind of ‘threaded’ buckles that you can adjust without needing to unthread. They proved so good that other companies followed. Wild Country are a notable example – their original effort was rubbish but their current range have very nice threaded buckles that are smooth and hassle free.

Needless to say, Arc’teryx have got in on the act and installed their own version of threaded buckle on the WST range. These are about as good as they can be – smooth and easy to use without the ‘clunky’ operation found with some examples.

Perhaps I’m just lazy, but having buckles that can be tightened quickly without having to fiddle about threading makes life much easier!

The R–320 has fixed leg loops and only one buckle on the waist, like the female and sport models. This is all you need and further ensures weight is kept to an absolute minimum. As you would expect the Ice and mountaineering harnesses have adjustable legs.

I’m glad Arc’teryx opted for fixed loops (on their all-round harness) as I think too many harnesses have adjustable legs when they don’t really need to – I certainly never adjusted the legs of my old harness, and unnecessary buckles mean extra weight.

Safety Stuff
All harnesses sold in the UK conform to the relevant safety standards so the issue here is the ‘extra’ features that go beyond simple load strength and give added peace of mind.

Over the past year, it seems both manufacturers and users have had a heightened awareness of safety issues surrounding harnesses. Various high profile accidents have sadly highlighted this issue, and I think people are particularly conscious of the lifetime of their equipment.

A nice touch throughout the new Arcteryx harness range is the addition of a layer of orange fabric inside the tie in loop. This becomes visible at the point when the fabric is worn and alerts the climber that the harness needs to be replaced.

Durability
It’s difficult to comment on durability at this stage but I was encouraged by the lack of wear after climbing perhaps (hopefully) the most hideous chimney pitch I ever will at Seynes (see image below). After scraping my back (and the harness) up the inside of this limestone horror I half expected to find the softshell fabric full of holes, but I was pleasantly surprised to find no apparent wear at all. This is in stark contrast to the way I felt at the end of the ordeal!

Concluding Remarks
So, overall the R-320 gets the thumbs up. It’s definitely the best harness I’ve come across and well worth the £85 price tag.

In certain quarters, Arc’teryx have acquired a reputation for being a rather expensive, ‘poser’ brand and the reasons for this are fairly obvious. The prices of some of their outerwear range are frankly alarming! Indeed, £85 for a harness may seem a little steep, but when you are going to pay around £60 for any other premium model it makes more sense. In my opinion the technology is worth the extra £25 considering how important a harness is to overall climbing comfort.

It’s important to remember that this is a technology driven company, operating at the cutting edge of design. Their new harness range is a celebration of this design which demonstrates that they remain a grass roots climbing brand, who are very much at the top of their game... oh yeah, and they come in a snazzy tin!

Purchase the Arc'Teryx S-240 Harness here
Purchase the Arc'Teryx R-320 Harness here
Purchase the Arc'Teryx R-280 Womens Harness here
Purchase the Arc'Teryx X-350a Harness here
Purchase the Arc'Teryx A300a Harness here

Review by Dave Westlake
Images courtesy of Simon Downing, Tom Newberry and Arc'Teryx

The Frankenjura

2008-03-14T09:51:00.017Z

The Frankenjura

A few years ago when I was living in Sheffield there were a group of guys who I used to climb with who were constantly going on about the Frankenjura. Before then I hadn’t heard much at all about this place. But from the way they kept banging on about it there must have been something good there. So one summer a few years ago I went and checked it out.

Where is it and when's best to go?

The Frankenjura is a large climbing area which is found to the North East of Nurenberg in Germany. There are approximately 1000 crags scatted around the forests.

Spring until autumn are the times to go. Though if you are wanting to guarantee climbing then go in the summer. You could be unlucky in the spring and autumn and get a lot of rain. The summer heat isn’t too much of an issue, many of the crags are in the trees so you have direct protection from the sun.

Climbing Style

The Frankenjura has an image of being all Action Direct style mono pulling through impossible angles. Yes there is a lot of this, but there are also plenty of excellent routes at all grades.

The rock is generally excellent quality pocketed limestone with vertical to overhanging being the norm. The routes themselves tend to be short, generally around 10-20m and can be very bouldery.

The Frankenjura is home to the Redpoint, so not surprisingly it’s the bolted routes that are the main event.

There are some trad routes up some of the larger cliffs. There is also a lot of bouldering, however finding out about it is very tricky. There has been an agreement not to publicise the locations of most of the spots. You will probably be able to pick up a bit of info when you are out there. But I wouldn’t go there to just boulder unless you had some good contacts. Also many of the routes are like bouldering in the sky, so get a rope on!

The Redpoint

The term redpoint originated in the Frankenjura. Redpointing is a climbing term for climbing a bolted route in one go after practice. The name Redpoint comes from a German term rotpunkt (point of red) which came about because at the base of many routes that were not climbed fully without aid, a red circle was marked. And when the route was completed in one go it was filled in (ie with a red point)

About the Guidebooks

There are actually quite a few guide books about the area. In the UK the two GEBRO Verlag guides written by Ulrich and Harald Röker are probably the most popular, helped by the fact that they are written in German and English. The two guides Franken 1 and Franken 2 cover Band 1 (North) and Band 2 (South) respectively. I had a fair bit of use of Franken 1 but unfortunately Band 2 was not out at the time, so I used a different guide and in my opinion was less useful for non German speakers.

There are a lot of routes in the Frankenjura, (approx 7000 according to the guides) and as previously mentioned spread out onto many crags too.

The sheer number of routes and crags means a lot of information for a guide. This needs to be clear, concise and accurate. The GEBRO Verlag guides certainly fit the bill.

Have a look at the example page pictured. It has the crag name and in the star what grade range the best routes are in (Grades are UIAA). Then thankfully there are very good descriptions (in English) of the approaches otherwise you would never be able to find half of the climbing, as some of the crags are very secluded, but walk-ins are generally short. There is also a quick summary on the crag itself.

All the crags have a sketch diagram, which gives a very accurate representation of the shape of the crag plus other information such as crag heights and aspect. Whilst the routes themselves do not have a description, just a name, the lines can be easily picked out the crag. It’s a case of join the dots (well crosses) on the page with the bolts in the rock.

Crag Recommendations

There are so many crags and I think as a local you would struggle to climb on them all, let alone a visitor. Out of the ones I visited these are the crags I would point out to the first time visitor.

Bärenschluchtwände - One of the larger and more popular crags. A good concentration of routes in the harder grades but plenty to go at 7a and above

Stadeltenne - One of the best crags in the Frankenjura, Some vertical climbs on excellent rock and some classics on the overhanging sections. Best Grades 6b to 7c.

Zwergenschloss – One for the beasts. There are some easier climbs but the main events are 7c and above. Some impressive routes through cave roofs.

Weißenstein - Roadside access, vertical wall climbing on excellent holds. The Right side of the crag has some popular overhanging routes. Out of the crags I visited this had the highest collection of lower grade climbs. Best Grades in the French 5’s into the low 7’s

Schlossbergwand – One of my favourite crags I visited, 44 routes with the best range of grades being 6c to 8b.

Travel Tips & Accommodation

There were a few of us that went, and by different means. I shared the driving there, but I was flying back. The nearest airport is in Nuremberg, though the flights to the UK can be a bit limited and not as cheap as some budget airlines. But it does get you nearer to the Frankenjura than by flying to Frankfurt.

A car is pretty much essential I would say. You could do it without but your crag options would be reduced severely.

I stayed at Gasthof Eichler which is the main Climber’s Campsite, it's all very friendly (and not too busy) and there was a great mix of folks there. There are a few small huts which can be hired but you would have to get them booked in advance. There is also a small bar for a quality beer after a long day.

The other main campsite is under the Bärenschluchtwände Crag. This is a bigger campsite and is a lot more family orientated.

Provisions can easily be picked up in the local villages, including some amazing cakes especially from the cake shop in Obertrubach. In fact they were so good that we occasionally had some for breakfast and then for dinner!

On my rest days I was usually on belay duty so only saw a limited amount outside of the climbing spots. However there are a couple of swimming pools dotted around and plenty of small picturesque villages to have a nosey around. Nurenberg is also worth a day visit too.

I would definitely recommend the Frankenjura to pretty much anyone, excellent routes, in a lovely German Rural Forest setting, there’s a lot going for it.

Links

Buy the Guides Here

Gasthof Eichler Camping website

climb.frankenjura.com Site with a database of routes and crags

GEBRO Verlag See more information on the guides plus their other area guides.

The Man in the Moon

2008-03-06T10:43:00.017Z

With the arrival of the spring 2008 Moon clothing line (not to mention the great £6 deal T-shirt's) we thought we’d do a bit of a show piece slot for the man behind the brand. We have put together a collection of quality (well mostly) online video clips of the man himself in action on test pieces home and abroad.

At 41 you might think that Ben Moon has had his fair share of publicity throughout his long and illustrious climbing career, and maybe you’d be right, but there’s no doubt that through traveling to the worlds top climbing destinations and continually leaving his mark, in the shape of hard new lines, he has earned his place in British climbing folklore and well deserves the continued stream of plaudits and backslapping.

Ben Moon Fact File
Name: Ben Moon
Date of birth: 13/06/1966
Living in: Sheffield (UK)
Nationality: English
Height: 5'11" or 1.78 cm
Weight: 10stone or 64kg
Began Climbing: Age 7
Job: Climber/Businessman
Best Onsight (sport climbing): 8a+
Best Flash (sport climbing): Don't know!
Hardest Redpoint: 8c+
Best flash (bouldering): 8a+
Hardest boulder: 8b+
Favorite climbing style: Face climbing
Favourite sport climbing crag: Buoux (FRA)
Favourite bouldering spot: Fontainebleau (FRA)
Favourite Route: La Rose et La Vampire 8b, Buoux
Favourite Boulder Problem: Cypher 8b, Yorkshire (UK)
Music: Dance, Alternative (well nobody’s perfect)
Favourite drink: German beer, Red wine
Alimentation-Favourite meal: Fish
Hobby: Football, Golf
Homepage: www.moonclimbing.com

Image Right: Ben Moon back in the day attempting Neil Carson's super hard (and still unrepeated) Big Bang 9a.

Brad Pitt, Font7c+, Stanage, UK.

Black Lung, Font8b, Utah, USA.

Full Power, Font8a, Gardoms, UK.

Diaphanous Sea, Font8a+, Hueco Tanks, USA. (FLASH HOMBRE!)

Cypher, Font8b, Slipstones, UK.

Ben's Extension, Font8a, Stanage, UK.

Voyager SDS, Font8b+, Burbage, UK.

Right Martini, Font8a+, Hueco Tanks, USA.

Kentmere Valley Bouldering

2008-02-19T15:37:00.048Z

The narrow, fertile and easily accessible valley of Kentmere spans just over three miles and is only a short hop from the automotive corridors of the M6. As long as human kind has had a foothold in Lakeland, Kentmere appears to have hosted some form of community. One doesn’t have to look far to find the remnants of cultures long since deceased, obvious examples include the Gallic influenced architecture of the village church; whose resident Yew tree is said to date back to the time of William the Conqueror - making it almost 1000 years old! The valley name implies the residency of a lake, unfortunately however only a small millpond and marshy sump are left as a reminder of Lakeland's forgotten mere. The sizable lagoon that once graced the valley was drained in 1840 to increase grazing land and as an added bonus rich deposits of diatomaceous earth (used as a thermal insulator, filtration medium or stabilizing agent in dynamite) were discovered in the lakebed. A works site was built to process the product but closed down when supplies ran out in the later parts of the twentieth century. Even an arm of the mighty Roman Empire once called the valley home, and the structure now known as Tongue house – which resides at the far end of the valley – was built on the site of an original Roman guard house.

Unusually for modern times the pace of life in Kentmere seems to have slowed with the march of time, undoubtedly due to the demise of industry, mining and of course the decreasing importance of pastoral farming. This apparent temporal slow down makes the valley an ideal destination for those boulderers looking for peace and quiet, although be warned, unlike many Lakeland valleys, Kentmere has not evolved around tourism and as such there is a distinct lack of both general amenities and parking.

Whilst Kentmere might not be the first place you think of when looking for a days bloc sport in Lakeland, with the likes of the Langdale boulders, Carrock Fell and the Bowderstone springing more readily to mind, it may surprise you to learn that the Kentmere valley hosts the greatest number of recorded problems in Lakeland (over 130). This coupled with its accessibility, beautiful settings and the varied nature of the climbing - with grades ranging from Font3 to Font8c on a combination of slabs, walls and overhangs - make for one of the most diversely enjoyable areas in country.

Area Layout (from parking)

It would have to be said that Kentmere has never been rich in climbing history or nostalgia with its crags being on the whole scrappy and broken in nature, and a far cry from their nearby Langdale counterparts. In spite of this the valleys boulder quota is of a much higher standard and the rock (rhyolite) is generally solid, clean and offers superb levels of friction. The most well known and obvious sector is the Brock Stone, situated in a field behind the village. Badger Rock as it is more commonly known - getting its name from the local wildlife population - has been climbed on since the original pioneers set forth in developing the vast potential of southern Lakeland and has featured in the FRCC guide for many years. The access to Badger Rock was renegotiated in 2004 by the BMC and climbing is now permitted at all times, although no dogs are permitted in the field.

Further recorded development of the valley's bouldering had to wait until the late nineteen nineties when the now infamous Si O'Conor (pictured below on Little Women 8a+) recorded problems in the boulder strewn gully opposite Badger Rock; this area has come to be known as Little Font. The easier and more obvious lines within this sector had been climbed for years by locals and visitors alike but never recorded in detail. Si O’Conor not only documented the area he also recorded a number of previously unclimbed test pieces, including the excellent The Karma of Trees Font7c and the brutal Bright New Colour Font8a+.

It was at this point I became acquainted with the delights of Kentmere. After spotting Si O’Conor’s topo on the FRCC website I felt sure that there was not only good sport to be had but also the possibility of new lines.

The original two Little Font topo’s (both produced by Si O’Conor) were confusing to say the least and this may have added to the area originally being dismissed as poor. Seeing the obvious potential I decided to persevere and produced the first incarnation of the Kentmere bouldering topo for the website LakesBloc.co.uk. On subsequent visits I filled in a few gaps, climbing the awesome and technical Font6c+ arête Negative Reality Inversion and the powerful and perplexing Bass Line Venom Font7b. John Gaskins - at the time at the peak of his powers - also found time to break away from his ongoing crusade to climb every heinously difficult roof and wall project in the south Lakes, to repeat and confirm the difficulty of many of the harder problems on the mighty Giant Stone. More recently John also added Shadow Play (Font8c) to the front face of the Giant Stone which is undoubtedly one of the hardest pieces of rock climbing on the planet!

Jordan Buys on the Giant Stone classic Tourniquet Font8a+, this was the first re-ascent since the demise of a foothold.

Being a keen developer of new areas, as well as up for the occasional wild goose chase, I surmised that if boulders were located at one end of the valley then logic dictated (well it did in my mind) that there were more boulders elsewhere in the vicinity. This led me to discover the Tongue Scar boulders, which are located near the reservoir at the far end of the valley. The crag of Tongue Scar is featured in the 1992 edition of the FRCC Buttermere and Eastern crags guide although it's hardly worth the twenty-minute walk. In contrast the boulders that lie at the foot of the crag offer a good spread of low to mid graded problems generally with grassy landings in a lovely setting. Unfortunately however despite the attempts of the FRCC and others the crag and boulders below were subsequently banned for climbing purposes by the local farmer/land owner, so please DON’T go there.

With the disappointment of the withdrawal of access to the Tongue Scar circuit a vague tip-off, from south Lakes veteran Dave Bates, gave promise of a large virgin block lying further up the Garburn Pass. As it turned out the tip-off lead to the development of what became one of the best individual blocks in Lakeland.

The Garburn Pass is the major bridleway linking Kentmere to Troutbeck. It leads up the western slopes of the valley directly out of Kentmere village and is well known to the local mountain biking and fell running fraternity as a gateway to great days out. With both Little Font and Badger Rock flanking the pass it was an obvious next step to take the three quarter of a mile stroll up the bridleway to pastures new. The next chance I got I set off up the pass and sure enough after a twenty minute walk a cracking (literally) square-cut boulder appeared to the left of the track. At the time (mid-summer) the bracken was high and the weather humid thus making for a midge haven, so a mental note was made to return the following spring. The following March arrived accompanied by some magical crisp clear weather, so off I set armed with note pad and pen, an arsenal of brushes and a gut full of enthusiasm. Over a number of visits I set to work cleaning and climbing all the lines with the able assistance of local stalwarts Andy Butler and John Gaskins, this led to the creation of over twenty lines including some of the best mid to hard grade problems of their style in the Lakes. Image right: Chris Chapman on Bass Line Venom Font7b, Little Font.

Finally the most recent development in the valley occurred in May of 2003, on the hillside directly opposite The Garburn Pass boulder. This sector became known as The Valley of the Kings due to the use of ancient northern king’s titles for the names of many of the problems. Despite looking a little sparse on potential from the Garburn Pass a closer (and steeper) inspection led to the discovery of a grassy plateau in a slight dip further up the hillside and almost completely hidden from view. The plateau contains on large block (the Patio Boulder) and a number a smaller boulders, which combined with the five more visible boulders on the eastern slopes make the basis of a viable circuit containing in the region of thirty problems ranging from Font3 to Font7c (although the majority are in the lower grades) with good grassy landings and superb panoramic views. For a good place to start head for the Patio Boulder and avoid boulders 1 and 6 after rain, as the landings can be remain boggy. A visit to this area is best combined with a tour of the Garburn Pass boulder. Image right: Release the Pressure Font6b+, Garburn Pass boulder.

Cwrast the Ragged Font6c+, Valley of the Kings.

Summarising, if visiting the valley for the first time and climbing in the lower grades I would suggest a visit to Badger Rock with a possible excursion up to the Valley of the Kings if you fancy some quality esoterica. However the best climbing in the valley is in the mid to higher grades, I'd therefore recommend an initial cherry picking session of the best problems at Little Font (see guide descriptions/star ratings), then make a beeline to the Garburn Pass boulder. If time and skin permit then check out some of the crimpy traverses and walls on the Brock Stone’s southern face.

Below is a short (low quality) video clip of bouldering in Kentmere.

Guides
For further details on Kentmere bouldering either check out the Rockfax Lakes Bouldering guide which contains an extensive section on the valley.

Alternatively you can download the NEW (published Feb 2008) LakesBloc guide for free: "Kentmere Valley Bouldering".

The LakesBloc guide is a 2.8mb PDF for which you will need Adobe Reader to view it. If necessary you can download Adobe Reader free here.

Arc'Teryx Gamut Pants

2008-02-07T14:07:00.000Z

At 49 you would think I would have become less concerned about clothing, fit, functionality and all that. While my priorities have changed with age, I’m still as concerned about the fit of my trousers as I ever was. The days when I could drag on a pair of skintight flares for a head shaking session down Coniston dance are long gone. These days I’m more worried about whether my beer gut digs into the waist band, are they comfortable sat in front of a computer all day or even do they give you enough freedom of movement for climbing.

Gamut Pants do their stuff down the R+R Warehouse.

Some of my favourite trousers from the past have are from companies such as Gramicci, Mountain Hardwear and Patagonia. But as we all know very few manufacturers carry designs over from one season to the next so its often difficult to replace a trusted garment.

Gamut pants are my current favourite for all situations.

What’s good about them?

They seem to be very hard wearing; I’ve had mine for over a year and used them for work and trips to the climbing wall. They are cotton so very comfortable in warm weather, decent pockets that you can easily fit your wallet and phone into, excellent shape and construction, which allow for good freedom of movement when climbing.

What they are not, are light-weight trekking pants of multi pitch UK cragging pants but if you are looking for very comfortable trousers that look reasonably smart which can also be used for a broad range of outdoor activities then I would definitely recommend The Gamut Pant.

Available in men’s and women’s. Currently on sale a 20% off RRP.

A Quick Guide to South Lakes Pubs

2008-01-30T10:20:00.000Z

Never mind all those banal articles about Lakes climbing, here is some really useful information for your next trip to the South Lakes. Yes, its my very own guide to great pubs in the area.

Once prolific, they are now sparse and finding a decent pub for a quiet pint is not as easy as it used to be. My basic criteria are excellent beer (obviously), minimal screaming brats, a good local following, friendly staff and last but not least ‘The Crack’.

My ultimate test for any pub anywhere is the ability to go into it on your own and start up a conversation with either staff or locals in the first 10 minutes.

I have and A list and a B list. The A list are pubs I visit at least once a year while the B list are pubs that have historically been good and are probably worth a visit but may fall down on or more of my criteria.

The A List

The Woodlands, Silverdale.

A well kept secret (until now), and an unlikely looking building for a local bar. Always good beer. You can choose from a selection of guest ales or their own branded Woody’s beer at very reasonable prices. Ideally situated for a visit after an evening bouldering at Woodwell or Trowbarrow.

The Manor, Oxen Park.

Hosts Terry and Lorraine are extremely friendly and will always talk to you if you turn up on your own. The bar meals are famous for their quantity and value. Wednesday is curry night when Terry puts his Bradford up bring to good use.

The Golden Rule, Ambleside.

Still one of the great Lakes pubs thanks to Jon an Margaret Lockley. It survives in Ambleside as one of last bastions of the local community increasingly compromised by the inevitable social changes inflicted on the village by poor planning decisions and shortsighted management of the National Park.

The White Hart, Bouth.

Excellent beer and food. It can get very busy in the summer and may fall down on the ability to strike up a conversation with the person stood next to you. Avoid early evening Friday.

The Castle Inn, Kendal.

Definitely a locals ‘drinking pub’ but not dripping with testosterone. No food, excellent beer from Hawkshead Brewery. Friendly staff. Handy after a session at Kendal Wall.

The ODG, Langdale.

On a par with the Golden Rule for importance within the Lakes climbing community and still an excellent pub in every respect thanks to long standing tennants, Neil and Jane Walmsley.

The Manor Arms, Broughton in Furness.

A selection of excellent beers and a friendly atmosphere. Well frequented by Broughton locals. Ideal for stopping off at on your way back from the Duddon or Eskdale.

The B List

The 3 Shires, Little Langdale.

Church House Inn, Torver.

Sun Inn, Coniston.

Newfield Inn, Seathwaite.

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