The Rock + Run Blog

Christmas Opening Times

2009-12-18T10:53:00.006Z

Well there’s no getting away from it, Christmas is just round the corner. If you still haven’t completed your Christmas shopping, for your outdoor loving friends or relatives, and don’t fancy entering the hideous high street rush of the forthcoming weekend, and following week days then worry not!

All orders received between now and the 22nd December (inclusive), will be shipped on a next (working day) courier service. Remember, all courier shipments require a signature at their destination, so add a separate delivery address if you’re not going to be available at your home/billing address. If you still wish your goods to be sent via Royal Mail please email us (info@rockrun.com) requesting this and quoting your order number.

If you have any queries regarding problems with deliveries, returns etc. please be aware that although we will be available via email and phone over the Christmas period (during the times specified) our carrier services (Royal Mail & Initial City Link) may not be. As such we will endeavor to rectify issues over the Christmas period, where possible, although in some circumstances it may take a little longer than normal, we apologies in advance for any inconvenience this may cause.

Our Opening Times During the Christmas Period Will Be As Follows

NOTE: On Christmas Eve we will only be using Royal Mail to ship orders, as such any items received on the 24th, which would normally be sent via Initial City Link, will now be sent on Tuesday the 29th December.

Contact Details - Email: info@rockrun.com / Telephone: (0044) 015395 64540

Review: Grivel Trail Pole

2009-12-07T14:28:00.025Z

By Andy Hyslop

As someone who fully subscribes to the benefits of walking poles but finds using and carry them a bit of a hassle, I was keen to try the new Grivel Trail Pole.

With a decent dump of snow in the Cairngorms my first trip out with the poles was (predictably), up into Coire an t-Sneachda and back by Fiacaill a Choire Chas via the Goat Track.

What struck me immediately was the how light the poles were in use and I felt slightly self conscious setting off from Cairngorm car park with what looked like an extended tooth pick in each hand. Of course I knew they were lighter than most of the alternatives but the overall feel and increased articulation actually meant that they were immediately a pleasure to use. They feel so light in the hand that it takes a few minutes to start using them fully and trusting that they are not going to collapse at the first slip. I even broke into a jog at one point!

A key feature of the poles is the fold-down size, at 40cm for the 115cm poles, meaning that they easily fit into a rucksack for climbing or traveling. The steel ferrules seem substantial (not to be compared with your average alloy tent pole ferrull), and the plastic coated connecting wire looks thick enough to be durable for the long term. The yellow velcro backed strap attached to the bottom of the wrist loops acts as a neat roll strap to keep the three sections together when collapsed.

I found the spring loaded release button difficult to use a first. No problem assembling the pole but releasing the button to fold the poles does take some practice. Strangely enough I found it easier to do on the hill than sitting at home. The technique seems to be, twist the sections slightly while pressing the button. There is a point at which the rotation of the sections drags the button down into the hole, meaning you don’t have to completely depress the button to release it. A good tip (for any poles) is to regularly spray the joints with a small amount of WD40. This prevents the tube corroding from the inside and eventually ceasing up.

The baskets are perfect for snow-less conditions but would be a bit on the small side in very deep powder. I used them while there was about 6 inches of unconsolidated snow on the ground and they worked fine. If you were wading in knee deep powder I suspect they would not be very effective. The carbide tips, which are built into the basket unit, are nice and grippy on rock and don’t skid like regular steel tips.

Not having any length adjustment is a compromise of weight saving but at least you don’t have to continually worry about whether your poles are adjusted to optimum length or not. Just snap them together and that’s it. I used a 115cm pair which, for me, was pretty much spot on. I’m 6ft (180cm) tall. Having an extended hand grip is useful if you were finding the poles a little too long on a steep climb. You could easily grip the pole lower down, but then your hand would be outside the wrist loop.

In fact my only gripe is the wrist loop: not being adjustable seems like a a weight saving compromise that was not worth making. For the sake of two 15mm ladder locks weighing a couple of grams each the grip could be easily adapted to various glove thicknesses and hand sizes. It would very easy to make that change yourself if you are handy with a sewing machine.

Maintenance: Disassemble to dry, wipe off any dirt/grit and spray with a small amount of WD40.

Grivel Trail Pole 115cm

Grivel Trail Pole 125cm

Cairngorm, Northern Corries Conditions

2009-12-04T15:16:00.001Z

The crags are well plastered today and conditions seem reasonable. The turf is not well frozen.

Carn Etchachan

Fiacaill Buttress

Aladdin's Buttress

Mess of Pottage with climbers on The Message, The Slant and Hidden Chimney.

Article: Belay Device Guide

2009-12-03T11:46:00.026Z

By Rock + Run

With the vast number of belay devices now available on the market, we thought it may be helpful for us to outline each device that we stock and give a brief summary of what each unit is designed for, how it works and what it is and is not suitable for.

Traditional Stitch-Through Devices
Based on the original “stitcht-plate” and “sprung stitcht-plate” (picture inset) designs, these units are the staple devices used by most climbers. While, active climbers may use one of the other devices listed in this article, chances are they will also still own some form or other of this simple and effective design.

As with all belay devices the stitch-plate premise revolves around creating friction; the rope/s is fed in a loop through one or both (if using double ropes) of the slots (towards the climber) and clipped into a HMS style screwgate carabiner. The breaking rope is generally on the right if you’re right handed and left if you’re left handed, with the live end of the rope (to the climber) coming out of the top of the device away from you – the belayer. If the climber then falls or needs to be held, the s-kink in the rope, created by the device, creates resistance allowing the belayer to hold the weight of the climber relatively easily. As anyone who has experience untangling a rope knows, creating friction is easy enough, but releasing said friction can be the hard bit. This is why the key to a good device is not only it’s ability to lock when hold a fall or static weight, but also to release that lock equally efficiently, this can be said to be an axiom for all devices.

DMM Bug
The Bug is a classic belay device, happiest handling ropes from 9 to 11mm. It's hot forged, rumbled and anodised to give kind rope bearing surfaces and has a hard wearing nylon coated wire to stop it escaping.

DMM Bugette
The Bugette is a device for skinny (7.5 to 9mm) half and/or twin ropes, it has been designed to have a gentle rope radius that does not kink ropes and allows the rope to be paid out smoothly and locked off easily.

Wild Country VC
Originally designed primarily for Trad climbing the VC's ability to deal with thin ropes well, whether belaying or abseiling, have made it a firm favourite.

The Variable Controller was one of the first devices to move belay plates onto another level. Its wedge shaped design - which gave the VC its name - was able to be used in two performance modes to give more stopping power or less friction depending on circumstance - trad or sport climbing perhaps. This combined the best attributes of ‘flat’ plates with the best of the ‘deep’ plates meaning that when belaying rope could be fed quickly, but when abseiling more friction could be applied.

Black Diamond ATC (image right)
Possibly the most popular modern device available, the original ATC - Air Traffic Controller - is a lightweight, simple and often copied smooth-feeding design, which is also easy to operate and, when used correctly, won’t kink your rope. WARNING: whilst this is a supeb device it can feel pretty slick - which is good for paying out rope on sport climbs - and is therefore not a good device for someone belaying a much heavier partner. Easily handles ropes from 8 to 11 mm

Metolius BRD
The Metolius BRD Belay Rappel Device's notched ends increase rope friction during a fall to allow for an easy catch, no matter how big a whipper your partner takes. This extra friction makes the Metolius BRD a solid choice for use on skinny ropes, and it works on any ropes from 8-11mm diameter. Metolius also added a thumb press to help you release tension and provide a smooth lower or rappel when time comes to go down.

Assisted Locking Devices
These units generally operate in the same way as the ‘Traditional Stitch-Through Devices’, however they are further assisted, in terms of breaking a fall, by a line of blunted ridges or “teeth” on one side of the device.

Black Diamond ATC Sport
Essentially a ATC XP with a single slot, specifically designed for sport climbing, and ideal for climbing partners with vastly opposing weights.

Black Diamond ATC XP
A true variable-friction device, the ATC-XP maintains the silky-smooth feeding of the ATC but ups the braking power thanks to it's grooved rope slots. This makes a good option for ATC fan looking for more breaking power. Works well with all styles of climbing ropes - 7.7 to 11 mm.

Wild Country VC Pro2 (image left)
The VC Pro 2 with has be re-modeled to give its 'V' grooves even more belaying ‘bite’ to deal with the even thinner cords arriving on the scene. And internally it has also been re-radiused to make a smoother payout on fatter ropes. The design is based on the principles so effectively demonstrated in the original VC, that any all-around device needs to do the three essentials well: paying out quickly, holding falls securely and abseiling safely.

The VC Pro takes this one step further by doing this brilliantly across a wider more modern range of rope sizes. The current VC Pro 2 will now deal with single Ropes from 9mm upwards and double ropes from 7.7mm upwards.

DMM V-Twin
The V Twin is a variable friction belay device. It is made from stainless steel for durability and better heat dissipation. It stays a lot cooler on long abseils when compared to it's aluminium counterparts.

DMM spent a long time playing around with the directional teeth in the body so that they allow you to easily control the friction without the side effects of the ropes sticking when you want to pay out quickly. This unit works well on all ropes from skinny 8.0s to fat 10.5's. It uses the same nylon covered retaining wire as that used on the Bug because this has a proven history of good durability

Rock & Run Graviton
Based on the original Wild Country VC Pro, this device offers high performance levels when in use, at budget price.

Multi-Use Belay Devices
These devices extend the use of the aforementioned assisted locking devices by adding a carabiner hole on one side and a cord hole beneath the jaws, making them more versatile. These units can be used similarly to a standard device, and can additionally be used when belaying up to two second climber from above. The user can clip the unit to an anchor sling with a carabiner passed through the carabiner hole, belaying in an autostop mode. Jammed devices can be released by passing a cord through the cord eye and pulling on the cord.

Petzl Reverso 3 (image right)

Whether you're running a single rope on a sport route or taking thin twin lines into the alps, the Reverso 3 provides a solid break with deep V-shaped notches. Petzl also designed this belay device to lock automatically when you're belaying a second from the anchor, so you can multi-task at the belay without putting your partner/s at risk. The Reverso's quick-release loop lets you release tension on a fallen climber with a simple pull.

Black Diamond ATC Guide
Very simialr to the Reverso 3 in terms of design spec and function, however the ATC Guide is slightly larger and has its anchor point at a differing angle to Reverso - upright rather than horizontal to the device.

Semi-Automatic Devices
Sometimes referred (wrongly!) to hands-off belay devices, these units use a varied spectrum of mechanisms to achieve an extra level of locking safety – i.e. less actual force from the belayer is required to lock the device, in the event of a leader fall. Most of these devices use a ‘lever box’ mechanism (enclosed with internal moving parts), whilst others use a more familiar, rigid caming system. These are generally for single rope use only, and especially popular for use at climbing walls or on bolted crags.

Petzl GriGri
As with most ‘lever box’ devices, the Grigri works by locking when sudden acceleration occurs to the rope (like in a fall), therefore making it a semi-automatic belay device, unlike traditional belay devices, such as the stitch-through devices mentioned above. The device acts like an automobile seat belt, if you move the rope slowly you can run the rope through the Grigri without it locking but a shock load locks the device so rope won't run. One of the criticisms of automatic belay devices is that they can lead to a false sense of security. The automatic functionality may result in the belayer being less attentive to the climber than with a more traditional belay device. However, like any tool, proper training is required for proper use.

Trango Cinch (image left)
The Cinch Belay Device from Trango functions logically, modulates fluidly, and locks off quickly on 9.4 - 11 mm ropes in the event of a fall. One thing that is noticeable is that his unit is a slightly more complex device than a Grigri or Eddy, and it's well worth honing your technique (see video) before taking it to the crag or wall. Like the Grigri, the Cinch provides an autolocking feature that is useful as a backup, however the Cinch is much smaller and lighter than the Grigri.

Edelrid Eddy
The Eddy consists of four major components: the body, the rotating cam, a cover plate, and an actuating lever assembly. The Eddy is the perfect belaying device for sport climbing for either novice or the experienced climber - easy to thread, the rope follows logically the rope flow. A controlled descent with an emergency break system eliminates the "panic pull" syndrome which can lead to serious accidents.

Edelrid Zapo-Mat
With its adjustable tension spring the Zapo-Mat is the worlds first adjustable belay device. The ingenious idea of having a loaded spring in the handle means the Zapo-Mat is ideal for every sport climbing situation and for every belayer regardless of weight or rope thickness.

Wild Country SRC (Image Right)
The Wild Country SRC - Single Rope Controller - is loaded by inserting a 'bight' into the right side of the controller, and clipping a HMS carabiner through the slots and the bight. The HMS is anchored appropriately. Rope is fed by turning the Controller horizontally. During a fall, the Controller is pulled and forces the HMS carabiner to one side, wedging the rope between the carabiner and the two lower pins, enabling the fall to be held.

Other Devices

Figure of Eight
Historically used as a belay device in many parts of mainland Europe, this device is less commonly used for belaying these days.

View all our belay devices here.

Article: Gloves - The Basics

2009-11-20T10:44:00.005Z

By Jake Surman

If you’ve never bought a pair of gloves from an outdoor store, then the first time can be more than a little bewildering. The vast numbers of gloves on the market, in a myriad of different styles and cuts, can make it exceedingly difficult to choose the right pair for you. This article (hopefully) presents a clear view of the different types of gloves available and the considerations to bear in mind when purchasing a pair for a specific task.

Glove Types
Liner - thin fleece or synthetic material gloves, great as a baselayer or on their own when walking or running.

Fleece - similar to liner gloves, but made from a thicker, heavier weight material. They are often combined with a windproof membrane and can have textured finger tips and palms for better grip.

Technical - similar in style to ski-gloves, they are the staple of the winter enthusiast: a waterproof or weather resistant shell, often with a brushed fleece lining. Some require liner gloves; others come with removable liner gloves included.

Ice Fall - a technical glove with the added feature of increased knuckle protection and insulation, thus they can be bulkier on the back of the hand.

Dry-tooling/Leash-less - dexterous, well fitted gloves that give a large amount of feel, but consequently less insulation. They tend to feature back of hand/knuckle padding and a shorter wrist-length cut.

Belay - supple, hard wearing gloves that have a good grip to maintain a strong hold on the rope!

Expedition - warm, heavily insulted mitts: the aim of the game being to insulate your hands from the bitter cold.

Usage
Whilst many of the aspects of glove choice come down to personal preference, the basis of selecting a suitable glove is determined by considering the environment and the activity for which you are likely to be using your gloves. In fact these can be seen to be the key steps in choosing the correct glove.

Environment
A few years back I made the mistake of using the wrong gloves for the environment I was climbing in. I was on a week’s ice climbing holiday to Rjukan, Norway – a steep sided gorge containing hundreds of frozen waterfall ice climbs – and had taken my Scottish winter climbing glove combination, of an outer windproof mitt and inner power stretch fleece liner glove. I thought this would be adequate, as the previous year a group of friends had visited and had found the conditions to be -10oC and everything was perfectly frozen. My visit a year later was a little different. The temperature for the whole week was consistently above zero during the day, meaning the steep, frozen icefalls released their captured water in a stream of bitterly cold liquid. My hands got soaked and I had the worse case of hot aches I have ever had.

Photo Below: Professor Falls IV, Alberta, Canada

What I should have done was to look at the conditions reports and weather forecasts before leaving, considered these, and, assuming that there would be some melting ice, bought a pair of waterproof gloves. These would have been far more suitable for the conditions I encountered.

Slow learner?
In fact a couple of years before climbing in Rjukan, a friend (who was a far more experienced winter climber than myself) took me up the first steep snow and ice route I did: the Chèré Couloir on the Triangle du Tacul in the Mount Blanc range. Needless to say I had an unsuitable pair of gloves for steep ice. We set off up the route and somehow managed to muck up the first pitch, my partner came to the end of his rope length five metres short of the belay bolts, meaning I had to lead through. By this point I was pumped from climbing my first steep ice and my knuckles were pummelled and frozen from resting against the ice. Somehow I quivered my way up to the bolts, placed my hands under my armpits and felt the painful rush of blood returning to my frozen hands. With another four pitches ahead I was already mentally and physically exhausted! I seem to be a slow learner and it wasn’t until after a few more years of getting frozen hands, and my trip to Rjukan, that I invested in a pair of gloves with decent knuckle protection and insulation.

The level of activity is also an important factor. If you are engaged in a more active pursuit and you are generating a large amount of heat from your body, then you will need less insulative gloves. Gloves that are too thick, for such activities, can lead to damp, sweaty hands. For slower tempo pursuits, or where you are likely to be static for any significant period of time, you will need more insulation to conserve the heat leaving your hands.

Comfort (warmth) vs. Dexterity
Thinking of situations like those above, the logical reaction might seem to be to buy the most padded, waterproof gloves available. However, you do need to be able to use your hands! Whether you are placing an ice screw or it’s being able to comfortably grip your ice axes, dexterity is a key factor to remember.

This is where personal preference enters into the equation. Some people’s hands get cold easily, thus want more insulated gloves. Other people’s hands never seem to get cold and as such can wear thinner gloves. Balancing the connection and feel of a glove, with the warmth and protection that it offers comes down to the individual. A satisfactory compromise is often only reached after a few years of trial and error.

Mitts vs. Gloves
Now what about mitts, I hear you ask? Yes I’ve only talked about gloves so far as, up until now, the same considerations have to be made for both gloves and mitts. Where mitts differ is that mitts tend to be warmer, as less of your hand is in contact with the outer shell of the garment, mitts have a smaller surface area over which heat can be lost. Gloves tend not to be as warm, but offer better dexterity. A compromise many people reach is to use liner gloves, with an outer mitt shell. This means that when dexterity is needed, the outer mitt can be removed and the liner glove used without exposing bare skin.

Packability
Although it is always worth carrying a back up pair of gloves, in case one pair gets dropped, soaked through or for extra warmth, it is worthwhile considering the size and weight that any additional pairs add to your pack.

Versatility
A final factor to consider is that if, for example, you are buying a pair of gloves with rigid knuckle protection, but intend to use them also for skiing, a more all-round type glove might be more appropriate.

Belaying Gloves
This article is directed at winter climbing- what about when you’re at the crag, you’re on belay and your hands are getting frozen as your partner’s taking what seems like a lifetime to lead their route. Well gloves that are designed to be worn when belaying are also available. These have a better grip than many generic fleece or waterproof gloves, along with remaining supple enough to feel the rope and give your hands the much needed insulation.

Article: Snow Shovels - Using & Choosing

2009-11-12T15:00:00.013Z

By Rock + Run

Once seen as a novelty item of the "gear head", or point of interest in some technical outdoor stores – in Britain at least – the snow shovel has in recent years become a staple winter product for all the UK’s mountaineering and ski-touring specialist retailers. The practical use of a snow shovel is now well beyond debate, as these simple tools have been carried for many years in the US and Europe, proving their worth time and again.

So why precisely do we carry snow shovels in the mountains or backcountry? The following is a breakdown of the various tasks, you may find difficult or impossible without the addition of a snow shovel to your winter gear résumé:

Avalanche Rescue
Outside of the UK, avalanche rescue is probably the most prevalent reason for carrying a snow shovel. Traveling at speeds of up 120mph, and entombing the victim in a concrete-like snow-pack, these "white waves of destruction" offer little chance of avoidance if caught in their path. As such the only way of rescuing a victim is by digging them out with a sturdy snow shovel. In avalanche country it is also wise for each party member to carry both an electronic transceiver and/or avalanche probe.

Another elementary mistake made by groups in areas at risk of avalanche, is that they don’t all carry a snow shovel. Each person should be packing a quality snow shovel, as it’s not much use if the only snow shovel ends up being carried by the avalanche victim!

Testing Terrain
Connected to ‘Avalanche Rescue’, another potential life saving use of the snow shovel is for testing snowpack conditions, before venturing out onto a conspicuous open slope or mountain side. Such techniques as Snow Sheer, Snowpack Pit’s and most telling, the Rutschblock test (see the well explained video below for how this is done) will help you avoid avalanche dangers, and cannot be achieved without the use of a snow shovel.

Video Below: How to carry out a Rutschblock test.

Emergency Snow Shelters & Tent Platform
Snow shovels are also invaluable for making a camping platform or an emergency shelter. If you are carrying a suitable tent, a shovel is a great tool for carving out a level space for your campsite, and packing down the surface snow. The shovel can also be used to create wind breaks, collect snow (for brews or cooking) and dig a toilet area. If caught out and you need to stay overnight due to an unexpected emergency or time miscalculation, you can make a basic or elaborate snow shelter – mound shelter, snow cave or trench shelter. Another handy tool in this eventuality is a snow saw.

Types of Shovel
There are many variances in snow shovel design but the two most obvious differences, are the material the shovel is made from and the type hand grip/shaft construction.

Metal Snow Shovels: for the consumer who is likely to be using their shovel a lot then a metal (aluminum) shovel is probably the best bet. Metal shovels are harder wearing, have more structural rigidity (and integrity in the cold), and bite the snow better when in heavy use. That said they will be fractionally heavier than plastic snow shovels.

Plastic Snow Shovels: on the whole plastic shovels are slightly inferior to their metal counterparts, as they are weaker and have less structural rigidity. That said, if the user is only going to carry the shovel in case of emergency, then they are a reasonable option, as they are generally lighter and cheaper. The Grivel ‘Steel Blade Shovel’ is an interesting hybrid. This has a plastic body but steel tipped blade, offering the lightweight attributes of a standard plastic snow shovel with the added bite a metal shovel.

Handles: with regard to the actual grip there are generally two options, the T-grip – gripped between the fingers, lightweight but can be awkward if you're wearing mitts.
And the D-grip – usually chunkier and slightly heavier, but many people find it to be an easy and efficient design for moving lots of snow, especially if you prefer using mitts.

The shaft of the handle is often collapsible, to help with packability. Some snow shovels, such as the Grivel ‘Steel Blade Shove’, are supplied shaftless, with two simple scoop style lateral handles and the option to insert a walking ice axe or trekking pole as an impromptu shaft, again helping to minimize carry weights.

Finally, once you have purchased a snow shovel it’s worth practicing with it at leisure, in a safe environment. Here you can see how fast you can assemble the unit (if collapsible), and also find your own best method for digging/moving snow quickly and efficiently, with your particular snow shovel.

To view our Snow Shovel range click here.

X-File 21: Annot Bouldering

2009-11-06T14:29:00.013Z

By Jake Surman
Images courtesy of http://abloc.org/

Area & Style of Climbing
Close to the small town of Annot in southeast France are a number of poorly drilled sport climbing cliffs. Why bother coming here? Well a five minute drive up the valley is the Argenton mountainside, littered with an abundance of sandstone boulders, it contains high quality climbing in a beautiful forested setting.

Image Right: Triple X (B12)

Location
France, Alpes de Haute Provence

Overview
The bouldering at Annot is situated just over a mile up the valley from the town, on a forested west facing hillside. A steep hair-pinned dirt track winds up the hillside from the main road, and it’s from this that the boulders are accessed. The boulders range in elevation from around 700-1500m.

Although the sandstone boulders here are often compared to the famous bouldering in the Fontainebleau, the rock at Annot is in fact coarser grained- so can be rough on the skin! The quality of the rock varies, but is generally superb; increasing in quality with elevation. Contrary, to Font, the area offers a greater abundance of pockets, but still maintains plenty of rounded holdless mantels. The area has less slabs and is more orientated towards powerful, athletic climbing.

The landings are generally good, although the hilly terrain can make for uneven ground. There are also a large amount of higher lines, which will obviously require more pads.

Best Time to Go & Conditions
Due to the range in elevation a decent climbing session can be had even in the middle of the summer, although it might be best to stick to the pocketed problems as the more slopey lines are horrendous in hot weather. Spring and autumn seem a popular time to go. In winter it can be a little too snowy.

Getting There
For shorter trips it is probably best to fly to Nice, hire a car and drive (~hour and a half). Several budget airlines fly to Nice.

It is possible to get to Annot by train; however it’s about an hour and a half on foot from the station to the La Rouie (the main climbers campsite- see below) and a bit further to the farthest boulders. The distance from the town is worth remembering as if you don’t have a car you’ll have to hike up and down the track to town for supplies! The closest boulders at the bottom of the track are a more reasonable distance.

If you’re traveling around Europe and have a car, Annot is around an hour from the Verdon and about two from Ceuse, making it well worth combining with a trip to either of these venues.

Rainfall
Being on the edge of the Alps, rainfall is unpredictable and can occur at any time of year. Nearby, coastal Nice has an annual rainfall of around 800mm, inland and at altitude it is likely to be more.

Image Below: Toit du Col du Loup SDS (B8)

Accessibility
Hiring a car is time efficient, will give you more options in the event of bad weather and makes shopping and rest day activities easier. If you have time on your hands then the train connection (which is part of the scenic route between Nice and Digne-les-Bains) is a possibility.

Accommodation & Provisions
Camping isn’t allowed in the forest. There are two main campsites: one on the edge of town and another (La Rouie), which is more popular with climbers, situated on a farm 3 and a half miles up the dirt track, amongst the bouldering. There are also a number of cheap hotels in Annot.

Guide Book/s
No current guidebook exists. However, an excellent, free online guide can be found at http://abloc.org (in French).

Grade Spread and Recommended Routes
Annot uses its own grading system, the B grades (for Bloc), and these currently range from B1-B16 (up to around Font 8b). There are currently nearly 1500 recorded problems. As around two thirds of the problems are B3-B8, you’ll get the most out of the area if you’re climbing in this range. Above this there are still plenty of harder problems to go at.

Image Below: Madness (B6)

The bouldering is divided up into 35 different sectors, each has many quality problems. I only had time to climb in a few of the areas, from these the following problems can be recommended:

Sector Madness: Redoublage (B5), Bacalauréat (B6), Bachotage (B6), Madness (B6) and One Step (B9).
Sector Scary Movie: Conatif (B4), Sympa Tique (B6), Hiroshima (B6), Scary Movie (B8), Los Alamos (B8), Bernadette Subaru (B10) or Le 6 (B12).
Place des Cardeurs: Citizen (B5), le N° 405 (B6), President Evil (B8), Si Tu Dérapes (B10) and Place des Cardeurs (B14).
Place Vendome: N° 1049 (B5), 1048 (B6), Tendu Comme un String (B11) and Triple X (both B12).
Paf le Chien: Problem N° 742 (B6), Cartondulé (B8) and Paf le Chien (B11).
La Crête: Panoramix (B8) and Le Toit du Cul du Loup sit start (B8).

The lower sectors between the 4th and 7th bend of the track (Sectors Dragonball, Menhir, Seb Karma and 5eme Epingle) were good for easy circuits, which we made our way around on our way back and to and from town.

Grade conversion charts of the B grades seems to vary, here’s one basic comparison table I found: B6/fb6b, B8/fb7a, B10/fb7b, B12/fb7c, B14/fb8a.

General Tip/s
It’s worth bearing in mind that every autumn (from the 10th September to the 10th January) some of the farthest areas are closed for wild boar hunting. This closure equates to about 15 percent of the established climbing areas.

When climbing at Annot the following recommendations from the http://abloc.org site are worth remembering.

-The sandstone can be very fragile and it becomes even more brittle if it is scraped : do not use a wire brush on established boulder problems!
-Considering the potential of boulders to be developed, let the "inconceivable" problems remain inconceivable : do not chip holds!
-Only park on the turns, as trucks use the track regularly.
-Wild camping is prohibited and do not make any fires!
-Do not cut trees.
-Do not demolish the stone walls under the boulders.
-The boulders are located on private property : thank you for remaining discrete.
-Especially do not collect mushrooms!!!
-Don't leave any waste (as always).
-Locate the descent route off the boulders before climbing...
-Avoid climbing after the rain: the water makes the rock very easily damaged.

Location Map

Les Grès d'Annot, the sport climbing cliffs just above town, contain 130-odd routes up to f9a. The vast majority of these climbs were created on a large scale (at the cost of 100,000 Francs) in the late 1980s by the town to attract climbers. Go check it out if drilled pockets on blank walls are your thing.

If the weather craps out on you it’s only a short drive to a number of other quality French climbing venues (mentioned above).

Useful Links
Flights: www.ryanair.com
Car Hire: www.carrentals.co.uk
Annot online topo site (in French): http://abloc.org

Current Local weather Conditions

Review: Rab Neutrino Endurance Jacket

2009-10-30T11:48:00.014Z

By Greg Chapman

I think it’s fair to say; that over the last few years, the Rab Neutrino Endurance has become ‘the’ duvet (UK climber slang for down jackets) of choice for most British climbers. Since its introduction to the scene, around 4 to 5 years ago, this piece has become staple viewing at most UK crags, throughout the winter months. The jacket offers a superb blend of low weight, high fill-power and slick cut, without compromising durability and function.

Aimed at the higher end user, the Neutrino Endurance is designed to tackle all but the most heinous winter conditions – think Scottish winters, year-round Alpine use, and serious ascents up to 6500m. The keen aesthetics, clean finish and lightweight packable nature of the jacket, have given it as much a following with the winter cragging/bouldering clique, as with the more traditional techy down jacket market of mountaineers.

Features
When it comes to features, Rab have put some serious effort into the design of Neutrino Endurance, combining minimalist chic with all the necessities we’ve all come to expect in a technical duvet - Velcro-adjustable cuffs, two-way zippers (easy access to your harness and belay device), two external hand pockets with weatherproof zips, super cozy wired hood (which is peaked and easily adjustable), an internal pocket and stuff sack.

Specifications
Construction-wise the jacket uses a box wall design, rather than the traditional stitch-through method; meaning you don't get any cold spots along the stitching lines. The baffles – which are also closer together than some other jackets – hold the down in place, so it doesn't migrate and leave any sections uninsulated.

Rab use Eastern European goose down which is generally better quality than the Asian variety, used in many lesser jackets. The shells are constructed in China, then tenderly hand-filled with 96% pure white goose down, in the UK. The duvets are then shipped and stored un-stuffed, to help keep the down at a premium for when it gets to the customer (storing down stuffed for extended periods can permanently damage the lofting of the down). The fill power rating of Neutrino Endurance, is 750+ (EU) and 850+ (US), meaning that the jacket’s core fill captures a greater volume of air, or more specifically,
warm air – result: you stay warmer.

The internal fabric is Pertex Quantum – the lightest Pertex fabric available – weighing approximately 30g per squared metre. Externally the jacket is encased in Pertex Endurance fabric (50g per metre squared) which is windproof, breathable and the lightest water resistant Pertex available.

Below: Tom Dixon preparing breakfast in the Texan desert, after a cold January night.

The Fit
The fit is a very good, active cut – shorter body with a drop seat, for use with a harness – and I had no complaints. I have read in other quarters that the neck can be slightly narrow for the well built, and thus a bit tight, however I encountered no such problem. Overall adjustment is good and effective without being over the top. The hood is also well fitting, has a wired peak, is easy to adjust, and works very well with a helmet.

Performance
As well as the UK, I have used the Neutrino throughout winter in the Utah/Texan desert, California’s High Sierra’s, and also in Alpine winter and summer conditions. As with all down jackets, the warmth of the garment is reliant, in part, on relative air moisture. In cold dry conditions the jacket is supremely warm, and as stated above, will be sufficient in all but the most extreme conditions. From new, the garment is also pretty water resistant, and will take the brunt of even harshest downpours, with no lasting effects. However with time, and more specifically usage, the Pertex’s DWR treatment will deteriorate/wear off and with it the water resilience of the jacket will start to falter.

Summery
A great down jacket for most activities, due to its lightweight and packable nature, great fit, good features and smart look - the people’s champion!

Article: The Fish Onsight

2009-10-15T14:56:00.011+01:00

By Ben Heason
A Wild Country Article

In 1981 legendary Slovak alpinist Igor Koller, together with Czech climber Jindro Sustr tackled what was regarded as one of the most foreboding walls in European Alpinism at the time – the South Face of the Marmolada in the Italian Dolomites. Over three days, placing no bolts, but using a few points of aid, they opened the first ascent of ‘Via Attraverso il Pesce’, which soon became more widely referred to as ‘Il Pesce’ or ‘The Fish’, due to the large whale-shaped niche towards the top of the wall.

Despite attempts from the likes of Manollo Zanolla, Beat Kammerlander, Wolfgang Gullich and Kurt Albert and others it took more than 6 years before the route was first climbed free. These failed attempts, from high-profile climbers of the time, helped elevate the route’s reputation into what has been described as ‘perhaps the most legendary climbing route in the history of alpinism’. The sheer quality of the climbing on the central pitches, which tackle the vast smooth silver slab head on, coupled with the fact that there are no bolts on the route helped make the route an instant and revered classic.

Whilst the route now sees a few ascents every year a true on-sight is still pretty rare. Nowadays there are clearly many more taxing undertakings in world Alpinism, but over the years 'The Fish' has retained much of its fearsome reputation. I had heard more than enough tales of dangerously loose rock, difficult and technical climbing with nerve testing run-outs…

When I first started climbing I remember reading about the Fish, and wondered whether I would ever climb the route. At that time I thought not (because I thought I would only lead up to about E4 or so), but as the years progressed, my experience and ability improved and my thoughts of attempting the Fish began to turn into more of a reality. For years I had wanted, and intended, to go to the Dolomites, if only to experience the style of climbing in what is regarded as one of the top Alpine rock destinations of the world. But year on year other destinations, often newer and therefore more exotic sounding, came along – continuously bumping the Dolomites down the pecking order. So when I finally booked my flights for a two week trip at the end of August this year I was, needless to say, particularly excited.

Teaming up with Ted Kingsnorth, our main objective was to repeat the 'Brandler Hasse', the ultra-classic 550m 7a+ (E5) on the North Face of the Cima Grande – one of the Six Classic North Faces of the Alps. But in the back of my mind, I knew what I really wanted to do. After a relatively comfortable on-sight of the Hasse, the weather was still perfect. I knew what we had to go for next.

Left: Scoping out the South face of the Marmolada, the evening before our ascent of 'The Fish'.

Before the trip, the vague plan had been to climb an easier route on the South face of the Marmolada first, to acquaint ourselves with the wall and the highly technical and often run-out style of climbing encountered on it. But I wasn’t prepared to risk our window of opportunity - paranoid that we would soon encounter some of the notoriously ferocious Dolomite afternoon thunderstorms - so I politely insisted that we should get straight on the Fish. Fortunately, Ted was happy to go for it.

Early morning starts aren’t my strong point but needs must. Whilst wolfing down a quick mug of coffee and a bowl of porridge at the Fallier hut, I was pleasantly surprised that my emotions, even at half-past-four in the morning, were more of excitement rather than apprehension. But how long would that last? The 45 minute slog up to the base of the route did its best to dampen my enthusiasm, but having stashed our kit at the base of the route on our previous days recce. mission, we were able to race up the scree and were on the rock before 6am.

Following our useful topo from the Italian magazine UP (the Mythical Routes section 2004/5), and a chat with my friend Erik Svab who had already climbed the Fish in 2004, we had been advised to avoid the ugly and loose terrain of the first two pitches by making a short and easy (ten foot section of grade III) scramble around to the right. With further help from our topo we were also able to link many of the pitches together, not only giving us some wonderfully satisfying long pitches, but substantially reducing our time by skipping belays.

Below: Church spire, and glorious backdrop, in Cortina.

The first pitch, a scrittly F6a crack, with frozen fingers and dim morning light, was a somewhat rude awakening, but after some ungracious but careful scrabbling we were under way. After a couple more easy but loose pitches we found ourselves at the foot of a long, grey corner on now solid rock, the morning now fully dawned into a spectacularly beautiful day. After following Ted up this it was my turn to embark on the first of the real pitches (F6b+ or E3 5c) of the route, a meandering line weaving its way carefully up the beginning of the enormous smooth slab by way of perfectly formed pockets and smears, with adequate gear.

I was in heaven but, even from this early and relatively easy pitch, I knew we had a brain fryingly technical day ahead of us. The beautiful morning that had originally dawned had, in an instant, been enveloped by a thick and swirling white fog which appeared to have engulfed the entire mountain range. The next pitch was a little easier, allowing us to fully relax before the first of the harder pitches, a technical and fingery F7a+. Before setting off on this pitch we were fortunate to have been caught up by a German and Argentinean pair. The Argentinean had previously climbed the Fish about 8 years ago, but had been unable to free the crux pitches, including this next one.

He thought that the free climbing line took a different course to the aid line at the beginning of this pitch, so with some uncertainty I down-climbed and traversed rightwards to join the free version. The climbing was technical and unobvious; classic 6b wall climbing followed by an awkward groove, also English 6b, but the protection was better than I had been expecting, giving either a tough E4 or a soft E5.

Right: The Argentinian leading pitch 7 of 'The Fish'.

The next pitch was significantly easier, but seemed a bit tough for its F6b rating. Even the easy moves on all the pitches required plenty of thought combined with delicate precision. The following pitch, a long open groove graded F7b, looked beautiful, and by now the sun had burned through the mist and was ferociously beating down on us. Ted teetered up the slab, clipping the odd piece of in-situ gear, and fiddling in one or two pieces of his own before he ground to a temporary halt in the groove itself. There always used to be an aid peg in the tiny seam of the groove at this point, but it snapped recently, making it obligatory to make the move with the protection now a few feet below you. The crux of this pitch involved a precariously tenuous smear, with a stretch up to a good pocket followed by easier terrain to an airy hanging belay.

We had been advised to avoid this belay if possible, and combine the F7b pitch into the next F6c+ pitch which takes you into the famous niche which gave the route its name. There were a couple of difficult sections on the F6c+ pitch making the whole pitch in the region of E5 or E6 6b, and what Ted considered his hardest trad lead ever – not a bad place to do it!

I had thought about Hansjörg Auer’s audacious free solo of this route in 2007 on numerous occasions already in the day, but seconding the delicate crux move of this pitch was the first time when it struck me just how impressive his feat had been, surely ranking it as one of the most audacious solos of all time. Whilst sat in the large niche I tried to block thoughts of Auer’s solo from my mind; we had plenty more hard climbing ahead of us so needed to concentrate on our task.

The next pitch, a F7a leaving from the right hand side of the niche before traversing across the length of it, followed a line of wonderful pockets before heading straight upwards by some physical and sequency pocket moves. It was perhaps my most enjoyable pitch of the whole route, a great E4/5 6a/b.

Now for the crux pitch.

As Ted had lead the F7b pitch it was my turn for the F7b+. I had heard tales of desperate and tenuous climbing with terrifying run outs, so it was with some trepidation that I set off. With good protection placed, I committed to the first of the tricky sections, a steep and physical sequence that landed me in a precarious and mind-blowingly airy position at a small pocket with a decent looking peg. I could see the belay about 6 or 7 metres diagonally up and rightwards, whilst it was obvious there was no possibility of placing more gear, the last couple of metres looked pretty easy.

Left: Ted seconding the crux pitch of 'The Fish'.

With no chalk to follow, and feet tiring in my precarious position, I had to make a decision. Should I go high or low? Both seemed equally unobvious and looked very difficult. After several minutes pondering, my tiring feet forced me to choose. My auto pilot kicked in and, almost in a blur, I found myself at the belay, where I let out a roar of delight. With only a few more pitches to go I was confident that I had it in the bag – I could barely believe that here I was, doing something I’d dreamed about for years – onsighting 'The Fish'.

The next pitch, a F7a+ famously termed the “pendulum pitch”, was more testing than either of us had been expecting, despite having been told that the Slovenian uber-alpinist Mario Lukic failed on this pitch having on-sighted all the previous pitches. After climbing up to a peg, it is unclear how far down you are supposed to reverse before committing to a tenuous leftwards traverse across the slab to the base of an easier corner. Even having watched Ted find this pitch quite testing on the lead, I was still surprised at how tricky it was; a safe but very fall-off-able E4/5 6b!

The next two pitches (F6c and F6c+) climbed through steeper terrain giving more positive, physical climbing, if a little loose in parts. By around 7pm we were both on the large ledge at the end of all the difficulties, congratulating each other at having onsighted the whole thing.

Overall, 'The Fish' wasn’t as difficult as I had been expecting, nor was it as mentally demanding as I had been lead to believe. But it is extremely technical and sustained, so to on-sight the whole thing is quite testing, not because it is that difficult (if you onsight E6), but because there are a number of places where it would be all too easy to fall off by accidentally going the wrong way, or failing on the correct sequence of moves.

Below: Ben seconding on pitch 10 of 'The Fish'.

After talking to several local activists who had climbed 'The Fish', we had been strongly advised to abseil from the large ledge, to avoid the top few hundred metres of VS and easier climbing on very loose rock. Completing our last couple of abseils in the dark, we gave each other well deserved pats on the back before racing down to the valley floor, where we gleefully sought out our perfect reward of Pizza and beer!

During the two week trip we also ate many more pizzas, drank plenty of beers (and a delicious White Russian) and climbed lots of great mountain routes, as well as three days climbing single pitch stuff in the valleys.

Article: A Trip to Torridon

2009-10-09T13:06:00.019+01:00

By Mike Binks

In Mid September I had a week off, and the plan was to drive up the West Coast of Scotland, scouting out bouldering destinations. However my plans usually don’t work out as expected, as so happened on this occasion when, with my car loaded up and ready to go, I had a phone call from a mate in Sheffield telling me to come down - so I did. Anyway, a couple of days later and with a minor detour via Sheffield, I was crossing over the border into Scotland.

The first point of call to head towards was Glen Croe. Which is to the West of Arrochar, near Loch Lomond.

Glen Croe
Glen Croe is probably better known for its cragging, however I had heard about a boulder up on the hillside. This boulder is known as the Kennedy Boulder and is compared to a schist-like Bowderstone in the guidebook. This alone was a good enough reason to go and check it out. By the time I was entering Glen Croe it was already getting pretty late, so I had a quick go on Rake Humour, to tick it off, on the appropriately named Pitstop boulder by the roadside.

I then carted my bouldering and camping kit up the hillside. I knew from the forecast that rain was coming in at some point so I decided to camp up near the boulders to improve my chances of getting an early morning session in, however this was not to be, the rain came in overnight and wouldn’t stop, so no climbing unfortunately. So I ended up walking around the main boulder and the other scattered boulders, scoping out the problems and potential for future visits.

What I can say is that the rock quality is amazing, though of a very rough nature. The landings are pretty much all flat and grassy, so you don’t have to cart loads of pads up the hill, which is a pretty steep slog.

There are a fair number of problems with a good spread in the Font 6’s and 7’s. There are some easier problems on the peripheral boulders. The guide ‘Bouldering in Scotland’ highlights many problems on the Kennedy Boulder itself. However there are other problems on the surrounding boulders not listed in this guide, for more information check out the Wiki Page on Scottish Climbs here.

Next to the Kennedy Boulder is a bivvy under a rock, which would have been great apart from what seemed like a stream running underneath. This was probably due to the large amounts of rain that had fallen the day before I arrived; I expect that it’s not normally in this situ. In a drier spell, this bivvy would save having to walk up with your tent.

In the morning I decided to pack up and drive up to Torridon to check out the next place on my list.

Torridon Overview
The Torridon valley is very scenic; the most striking feature is the banded tiers of red sandstone, which go high up the valley sides.

The village of Torridon sits at the head of the Loch. Here you will find a Youth Hostel, a campsite, tourist information and a phone box in the village. There is a posh looking hotel nearby called The Torridon, but don’t let the grandeur put you off - if you decide to venture in to the bar you won’t look out of place. They have a small selection of bar meals too which are pretty amazing in my opinion.

I stayed on the free campsite in the village, which was great as it had all the amenities required including a toilet block with hot water and even a ‘free to use’ shower. The site itself was a bit wet underfoot in places, but there was plenty of room to find a space. It’s worth noting, the site is pretty sheltered so bring a midge net.

The campsite is a great place to base your self as the boulders and some crags are all nearby. The road leading to Kinlochewe is your typical single lane road with passing places. It’s easy to follow, so getting to other nearby valleys is not a problem either. I enjoyed myself so much that I decided to spend the rest of my time in this area; this is what I got up to…

Torridon Bouldering
Torridon Bouldering was the main goal of my trip - I had been wanting to visit these boulders for a while as I had heard good things about the problems. With boulders like this, how could you not be inspired?

Photo: Malcolm's Arete (from Stone Country blog)

The main focus is a bunch of blocks and walls which make up ‘the Celtic Circle’; these vary in height and are not all as high as the Ship Boulder pictured. There is a good circuit of problems with a good spread of grades right up to Font 7c. The rock is known as Torridon sandstone and is very good quality, it felt very similar to grit. The rock was also very clean, I was half expecting it to be a bit scrittly or dirty, but everything I tried was great. The approach is really easy - the boulders can be seen from the road. It is just a case of parking up at the edge of the village and walking for about 5 minutes.

A good tip that was given to me before I went was to make some informed footwear choices. You see, wellies are the approach shoe of choice in this neck of the woods as the approach to the boulders is pretty wet underfoot. Whilst most of the boulders are on dry bits of ground, the ground around the Ship boulder is an exception and can get pretty sodden, so some large Tarpaulins are useful to help keep your mats dry.

The ‘Bouldering in Scotland’ guide was once again very useful; the descriptions were good, enabling the problems to be found easily. As there is so much rock in these areas there are bound to be more problems than those listed. In fact there is a topo available to buy from the Youth Hostel in the village which slipped my mind when I was there, so there may be more problems described on that. If not, get your exploring brain in gear - I am sure there is plenty to do on the tiers above the boulders.

Torridon Trad

In Glen Torridon lies Seana Mheallan, which is high up on the western side of the Len. Andy and I headed to the Western Sector after a steep approach. The western sector has its crags on one level though they are broken into small sections. The rock was very clean and we discovered that it dried very quickly after a passing rain shower. The buttress that we climbed on was probably one of the shorter outcrops. However the bunch of routes we tried were all very interesting, including:

Dolphin Friendly E1 5b - a short but sustained corner.
Bleached Whale E2 5c - a bouldery start over a roof to good but easier wall.

There are plenty of routes up on the hillside, and if you had a full day you could start on the western section and warm up in the morning sun before heading round to the bigger Glac Dhorch sector, which is conveniently on the same level of crags.

Photo: Bleached Whale E2 5c - Seana Mheallan

Gairloch Trad
Gairlock is the next glen north, but its crags are within striking distance if you fancy a change from the Torridon Sandstone. Andy and I went cragging again and visited two areas, the Loch Tollaidh Crags and the Stone Valley Crags.

Loch Tollaidh Crags:
An easy approach across the usual boggy ground gets you to the rocky hillside which comprises of groups of small cliffs. We initially headed to Dinosaur Wall, which is vertical wall, with good holds and good gear. The climbing was very pleasant too – consisting of about 20m high sections of Lewisian Gneissz rock. ‘In the Pink’ HVS was a good route, a bit tricky to get established, but then very enjoyable climbing up a slight grooved feature.

Stone Valley Crags:
This is another area with a hillside covered in crags. It’s a bit more of a walk than the Loch Tollaidh Crags, but most buttresses’ are within 30-45 minutes. The rock is very clean and quick drying.

We only did the one route here which was ‘Bald Eagle’ HVS 5a. This was a clean slab of rough gneiss, with a stunning outlook high over the hillside. Whilst we didn’t we didn’t attempt 'Open Secret' the HS to the left, it is well known for being a Crag Classic.

Liathach Traverse (Torridon)

On my final day, my body was feeling the effects of the full regime of climbing and my skin had certainly seen better days. So a non-climbing day was in order, and as I was in Scotland in an area I had not explored before, adding a couple of Munros to my tick list of accomplishments seemed a good idea. On the north side of Torridon Valley is the Liathach – my choice of hill range I planned to conquer. All week the tops had been drifting in and out of cloud, its presence dominating over the valley.

Getting up to the top on the ridge requires a substantial up-hill slog from the east - but the path is a decent one and easy to follow. When you hit the top you may as well go east and bag the summit of Stuc a' Choire Dhubh Bhig, which apparently has unrivaled views across to Beinn Eighe (although not for me as the cloud was in the way).

Then it’s a case of following the ridge in a westerly direction over the top of Bidein Toll a'Mhuic towards the highest point on the ridge, the summit of Spidean a'Choire Leith (1055m).

The next section is the most interesting. As you make an exposed scramble across the Am Fasarinen Pinnacles, depending on the route you choose, you can make a few more rock climbing style moves. This scrambling section can be avoided by dropping down the hillside though you still have to follow a very exposed path.

The ridge then changes into a much gentler slope to the south, with a drop to the North into the Corries in sight. The final summit before descending is that of Mullach an Rathain (1023m) the second Munro on the Liathach. Then it’s a case of making the decent, which is via scree at first, then joining the path that meanders its way down and around rocky terraces until you are back on the road.

This took me about 8 hours in total, and is well worth doing. Although having a clear day would have been a spectacular sight, I did get a decent impression as the cloud lifted every now and again.

For more info and photos on a clear day have a look here.

General Info
Fill up with petrol in Glasgow or Inverness, as petrol is a lot more expensive in the area I stayed.

Driving time: it took me about 8 hours to get from Torridon to Lancaster, with a few short stops, but a clean run. This was coming back via Inverness before heading South on the Quicker roads on the East side of Scotland

As previously mentioned, wellies, tarps for your bouldering pad and a midge net are a must.

Guides
Available to buy from Rock + Run
Bouldering in Scotland
Scottish Rock Volume 2 North
SMC Guides Northern Highlands South covers Torridon but for the Gairloch Crags you need Northern Highlands Central

External links
The Torridon Inn
http://www.thetorridon.com/inn/

There is a blog post on StoneCountry Blogspot which is worth a read.
http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/2007/05/torridon-classics.html

From Scottish Climbs
http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Glen_Croe
http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Torridon

Review: Climbing Guide to Antalya

2009-10-02T10:15:00.013+01:00

By Greg Chapman

Antalya Overview
Situated on the shores of the eastern Mediterranean, in southern Turkey, is the historical coastal town of Antalya. With its picture postcard landscape of beaches, woodland and the steeply rising Taurus Mountains, it is easy to see why this area has become increasingly popular with outdoor enthusiasts, and more specifically climbers.

The main rock climbing areas revolve around Geyikbayiri, which is situated around 15km west of Antalya itself, with a further 3 or 4 areas within a 30km radius of Geyikbayiri. The area is a relatively recent addition to the European sun rock circuit, having only been seriously developed since 2000. The routes are generally well equipped, with quality bolts and lower-offs, and there is now over 300 routes to go at, ranging from f4 to f8c – with the best and most prolific offerings being in the 6a+ to 7c bracket.

There is obviously plenty of cheap accommodation in and around Antalya, however if you want to keep car hire and travel costs to a minimum, there is pleasant, low cost accommodation below the crags of Geyikbayiri, in the shape of small lodges, bungalows and a campsite. Contact details for the companies offering these facilities can be found in the guide book…

Guide Book: A Rock Climbing Guide to Antalya
Author: Ozturk Kayikci

Ok so you have read the blurb, done some research of your own, and decided that Antalya is for you, so what about the guide? Is it easy to use? Has it got loads of useful area knowledge? Does it include English text? Let’s take a look…

In truth this is, initially at least, one of the most interest grabbing foreign guides of recent years. It is stacked with great action shots of climbers of all abilities enjoying the sunny delights of this east-meets-west climbing destination, as well as clear and concise maps, sharp topo images and useful local knowledge - regarding accommodation, supplies etc.

Image left: Working one of the many great projects at Geyikbayiri.

The book is fully translated into English, with very few of those lost in translation sentences, that are often cause for both arguments and moments of mirth in equal quantity. The book kicks off with a general introduction, going on to outline the history of climbing in the area and its relationship with local community. The guide then goes on to give you details of the best seasons to climb (September until early June), transportation knowledge, accommodation needs and finally a list of the many things you can do on your rest days.

After a brief but concise description of how to locate the sector, the actual crag sections of the guide are relatively simplistic, in that they rely heavily on annotated overview images and maps, as well as the photo-topos themselves. Having said that, there isn’t the scary overuse of symbols, which now seems common place, in many new guides. The route information is displayed in table format, below the photo-topos, giving details of the route names, grades, number of bolts, route length and first ascentionist details. The grade offered in the info table is displayed in the UIAA scale; however the author has kindly converted the grades to the standard (French) sport scale, and added them next to the applicable line on the photo-topos.

Summary
Overall this is a really nice guide, with the major plus points being that it is easy to use, it offers plenty of useful info for the first time visitor and it is chocked full of inspirational climbing shots, allowing you to get a real taste of the areas' ambiance, even before you step off the plane.

Purchase the Antalya guide here.

Review: DMM 4CU

2009-09-25T08:50:00.009+01:00

By Dave Westlake

DMM cams have been some of the most popular in the UK recently, but with an increasingly wide choice of brands on the market choosing the right device can be confusing business.

Having used them in both their 3 and 4 CU (cam unit) configurations for several years I can confirm that their popularity isn’t just because we Brits like to support local industry! This review will focus on the aspects of the Welsh forge masters’ camming unit that make it one of the best available.

The Range
The range is split into 11 sizes, covering a total range of 13mm – 100mm. They are rated to 14kN and like all quality cams can be used as passive protection due to the engineered ‘cam stops’. The passive strength of the cams, resting on these cam stops, is 10 kN.

Design
They utilise a double-stemmed design which gives plenty of room for fingers and thumbs when placing them, especially when in a rush or while wearing gloves (or both!). One of my main requirements for cams is that they allow me to place them quickly, and being able to slip my hand into the trigger position with ease is a key reason for 4CUs finding a position on my harness. Personally I have always found single stemmed devices to be that much more ‘fiddly’ to place, although with the imminent launch of the new DMM ‘Dragon’ cam range this may change....

As well as being highly ergonomic, there are other aspects of the 4CU design that give them the edge over other cams. One of the best aspects of the range is that they are colour coded, which makes picking the right one easy and instinctive – another feature that makes rushed placements much easier. DMM also produce several of their lightweight karabiner ranges in matching colours, so if you really like the colour coding idea you can put each cam on a matching karabiner!

I have always found that it is good to have 4CUs clipped with an individual karabiner (rather than several cams on one). This is because I often clip them directly into the rope when the doubled sling is extended, which brings me on to my favourite feature...

The addition of a sling that extends means that often you need not bother with a quickdraw. This adds to the weight saving benefit of 4CU’s and will be a relief if, like me, you regularly run out of quickdraws! Using the sling fully extended affects the strength rating of the unit slightly, but being 12 kN still (rather than the 14 kN when doubled) this is nothing to worry about.
Another cool feature is the option to thread string through two holes in the trigger bar. You will probably understand how frustrating it is when your cam is buried in a crack out of reach, and having something to grab to release the trigger in these situations is a great attribute.

Compatibility with Wild Country
A while ago DMM changed their colour scheme (and also the actual cam heads themselves) to match the corresponding Wild Country sizes. This means that people who are used to Wild Country Friends can add 4CUs to their collection and use them interchangeably.
The new cam heads have holes in them, and I assume this minor alteration is due to the never ending drive to make climbing gear lighter.

Lightweight
Indeed, DMM seem to be the leaders in lightweight technology in climbing gear. Their karabiners have been getting smaller and lighter for quite a while now and they are so svelte these days that I sometimes wonder how much further they can go. The lightweight theme appears to be the company ethos, and it is serving them very well.
4CU’s have always been part of the ‘light is right’ drive and they are another excellent example of how the trend in hardware is increasingly loosing weight. According to DMM, “average 20% weight saving means that the climber can ‘sew up cracks’ with a much lighter rack. Another way of looking at it is that climbers can place 20% more cams, feel much more secure, and still come out even on the weight”.

Durability
The lightweight nature of these cams does not seem to mean a compromise in terms of durability. My oldest 4CU has seen better days but, with regular cleaning and some WD40, still does the job superbly.

Many cam wires fray and twist after many years of being stuffed in cracks. On the 4CU range, the trigger bar is allowed to slide on the cam wires, keeping the wires in better condition than if they were secured, as they are on other models.

So, to summarise, 4CUs are an excellent choice for someone looking for a versatile, lightweight and easy to use camming device. They have been my choice of cam for many years and while I have used most of the other brands on the market, I always reach for my trusty 4CUs when I rack up for a tricky route.

Purchase the DMM 4CU here.

The Dubh Ridge - Skye Cuillin

2009-09-14T13:28:00.057+01:00

To quote the SMC Guide:-
“This is the best easy climb in Skye and a contender for the best easy climb in Britain”.

High above Loch Coruisk

Although technically easy, The Dubh Ridge is a very long route in a remote setting. Getting benighted is a distinct possibility if you make a route finding error, and a retreat may not be straight forward. This article will offer some additional information not available in the guide books which may help keep you on track and with any luck get you there and back in a day.

Trouser ripping friction

Route Overview
The Dubh Ridge rises from the western shore of Loch Coruisk and stretches west over the three tops of Sgurr Dubh Beag (Little Black Peak), Sgurr Dubh Mor (Great Black Peak) and Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn (Black Peak of the Two Tops). The famous Dubh’s slabs are on the initial section to Sgurr Dubh Beag. Above the slabs the climbing is similar to many sections of the main ridge.

Sticky approach shoes are perfect for the Dubh Ridge

Tactics
The climbing is graded ‘Moderate’. Most climbers with some rock climbing experience will not feel the need for a rope but there are some short sections that could be described as "real climbing", so if you have any doubts you may want to consider carrying a short rope and three or four nuts.

The route is achievable in a long day from Glen Brittle by a reasonably fit team. Alternatively, you could bivi by Loch Coruisk but then you are faced with the disadvantage of having to carry all you bivi gear on the climb. More recently, a popular option is to take the boat from Elgol to Loch Coruisk, but then you need a car shuttle to Glen Brittle. The simplest solution is to approach from Glen Brittle.

View Dubh Ridge - Skye Cuillin in a larger map

Getting To The Start from Glen Brittle
For a direct approach you have two alternative options available in order to cross the main ridge. Bealach Mhic Coinnich via Coire Lagan or Bealach Coir’ An Lochain via Coir’ A Ghrunnda. Both attain a similar altitude ( 2928 feet and 2806 feet respectively). Bealach Mhic Coinnich requires more scrambling on the approach but is more direct. Both routes converge at Coire An Lochain on the Coruisk side.

Bealach Mhic Coinnich: Take the main path up into Coire Lagan. Go around the southern side of the loch and take a vague path which hugs the foot of the steep cliffs of Sgurr Alasdair, which is to the right of The Great Stone Shoot. When the gully walls of the Stone Shoot close in, cross it, and scramble up a steep gully (mainly on the left) direct to the Bealach.

Descend from the Bealach for several 100 feet with a couple of short down climbs into a boulder strewn basin. Cross a broad ridge on the right (south) and work down slabs and grass to lochain at Coire An Lochain.

Coire An Lochain

Looking down the crucial grass ramp

On the final section down to Loch Coruisk you are looking for a diagonal grassy ramp which cuts south through bands of cliffs. Head down from the Lochain and start working right (south) looking for the start of the ramp. The line is difficult to find from above and you may need to do some exploration before you find the correct ramp. There are some cairns but you could easily miss them.

Once down the ramp, steep grass and heather lead to the path by Loch Coruisk. A few minutes walk brings you to the foot of the Dubh’s Ridge identified by a broad, smooth slab with a shallow grassy gully cutting through it to the right (north) of the foot.

Looking back up at the line of the grass ramp

Bealach Coir’ An Lochain
Take a good path round into Coir’ A Ghrunnda. Work up steep ground behind the loch to the Bealach. Descend with some down climbing sections to Coire An Lochain where the route converges with the route from Bealach Mhic Coinnich.

The start of the ridge from the shore of Loch Coruisk

To Sgurr Dubh Beag
Take the initial grassy gully to avoid steep slabs to reach a terrace. Above, there is a short steep wall which is probably the most technical section on the ridge. Easier slabs lead to a second steepening and tricky section. Now follow generally easy angled slabs for 2000 feet, winding around steeper sections and mostly keeping close to the the crest of the ridge.

The first technical section

A couple of 100 feet before the summit of Sgurr Dubh Beag, there is a mini col and a cairn marking the point at which a gully leads down to the left (south) of the ridge. This allows the peak to be turned without the need of an abseil. Continue to the summit.

The 'must do crack' with the small cairn at the col below.

The abseil from the summit is very steep (not down climbable!) and is followed by a short down climb to a level section of ridge. A better alternative is to retrace your steeps to the small col and descend the grassy gully a short way until a traverse line can be taken, leading back to the level section on the crest of the ridge.

Endless slabs on the way to Sgurr Dubh Beag

Sgurr Dubh Beag to Sgurr Dubh Mor

Looking back at the summit of Sgurr Dubh Beag

Continue along the ridge with some scrambling, with obstacles being passed mainly on the left (south). There is a notable steep down climb to the left, and a short distance further on, a rounded pinnacle which looks like it could be traversed on either side but is best taken direct.

The steep down climb between the two summits

Now the line starts to take you below steep cliffs to the left of the ridge. There are lots of small paths in this area but look for a line that will take you back right, and then back left, onto the crest of the ridge in a zig zag fashion. If you do miss this link and continue slanting left on ramps you will eventually end up at the foot of a steep corner which is climbable, but may require a rope.

The rounded pinnacle that should be climbed direct

Once back on the crest cross several subsidiary summits until the actual summit of Sgurr Dubh Mor is eventually reached.

Sgurr Dubh Mor to Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn

Looking for the zig zag connection below the summit of Sgurr Dubh Mor

Descend a short distance to a well worn path leading left, then back right (facing out). Continue working down ramps to the ‘Bealach area’ between the two peaks. Pass a superbly fissured flat block on the right. The chances are that you will walk over the top of this block and have to come back. Easy scrambling now leads to the summit of Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn.

The Summit of Sgurr Dubh Mor

Descend to Coir’ A Ghrunnda and eventually to Glen Brittle.

Timing
- Super fast: 6 hrs car to car. Fell running gear and bum bags.
- Light and fast: 7 - 8 hours. Approach shoes, minimal clothing with food and some camera stops.
- Light mountaineering: 8 - 10 hours. Boots, steady walking, minimal gear.
- Mountaineering: 10 -12 hours. Boots, a short rope and small rack.

You can expect to take a similar time on the route as you did approaching it. So if you took 4 hours to get to the foot of the ridge you can expect to be back to Glen Brittle in another 4 hours if all goes well.

Gear Recommendations
Shoes: Boreal Flyer or La Sportiva Cirque Pro
Food: High Five Sports Bars
Shell: Mountain Hardwear Typhoon Jacket or Rab Slipstream Jacket
Guide Books and Map: SMC Skye Rock and Ice and Harvey’s Skye and Cuillin Map

Sterling Ropes Preview

2009-09-12T17:13:00.016+01:00

Sterling Ropes are due to arrive into the UK next spring. Mike Binks and Andy Hyslop of Rock + Run took an 8.4mm Evolution Duetto for a test run in the North West Highlands.

Mike Binks at Seana Mheallan , Torridon

First Impressions

It was instantly apparent that we were working with a high spec rope, it has a light flexible feel and was easy to handle. In many ways it was reminiscent of the performance Edelrid half ropes and has that indefinable confidence inspiring feel of quality.

Belay at the top of Archangel Vs 4c - Seana Mheallan, Torridon

The flexibility of the rope means that knots cinch down securely. This included clove hitches on belays and tying into a harness. As someone who prefers a bowline for tying on, the tight low bulk knot was unencumbering and did not show any signs of loosening off during climbing. Mike thought the same with his prefered figure of eight method. The Evolution Duetto is very easy to manipulate when belaying as it falls into that nice diameter range of not being too skinny for control purposes, but is still narrow enough to use through a grooved style belay plate.

As the rope is a 8.4mm it wasn't too much of an issue to carry around weight-wise and it was easy to coil and pack into the base of a POD Super Teardrop. So far, it is standing up well to abrasions. I am sure that over time it will live up to Strirling's claims of being a durable rope, it's looking that way at the momment.

Mike Binks on Beached Whale E2 5c - Seana Mheallan, Torridon

Technical Spec
8.4mm Evolution Duetto
Dynamic Elongation 31.60%
Impact Force 6.5kN
Static Elongation 11.00%
UIAA falls 6
Weight 45 g/M

Another good point to mention is Sterling's DryCore Technology. DryCore is a treatment to the ropes core, this has two main advantages: it both reduces internal abrasion from the fibres and reduces moisture absorbtion. The latter is a benefit as wet ropes often proove less strong and can stretch more - the DryCore treatment reduces these negative effects. This DryCore treatment is on all Sterling ropes but if you want a fully dry treated rope you would opt for something from their "dry" range.

Mike Binks climbing In The Pink HVS 5a - Dinosaur Wall, Loch Tollaidh, Gairloch

Conclusion
At this stage it looks as if Sterling Ropes are going to compare well with the best ropes from the top European brands such as Edelrid, Mammut and Beal. Indeed, Sterling Ropes are already available in mainland Europe and are attracting a strong following among top climbers. The fact that Chris Sharma joined Sterling's team of Sponsered athletes earlier this year can only be a good sign.

Coiling up at the top of Dinosaur Wall, Loch Tollaidh

Whilst the pricing is not yet confirmed, they are definitely not going to be a budget rope, and will be towards the upper end of the price range. However as with many things in life, you get what you pay for - great quality. So If you are looking for a high caliber, performance rope in Spring 2010 then you should give Sterling Ropes some serious consideration.

Article: Cantabaco, Cebu, Philippines

2009-09-10T15:41:00.017+01:00

By Dennis Diaz

Ceuse, Mallorca, Rocklands, Hampi... and the list goes on... Each share stakes on the ever beaten track of “must stops” on a climbing adventure around the world. Although popular as they are now, these places once had their share of obscurity, remaining anonymous to the majority of outsiders. Throughout the years they have endured and garnered acclaim and still now, even as of this writing, enthrall and lure by way of magnificent stories and chronicles that now grow to legendary proportions and are passed on, every so often, endlessly in different tongues.

Image right: The author on La Filthy Gringas (f7c+)

Doors open quite readily to climbers these days. They come out darting all over the world in search of the ultimate climbing adventure. The immensity and magnitude of climbing areas and routes is simply overwhelming. Routes of varying nature are served on a silver platter ready for the picking. All that is needed is a quick scan through the World Wide Web - type in your desired destination and there it is - a mapping out of everything you need for the trip, magic! This magical portal of the internet, however, is not all powerful. It fails gradually as a greater enchantment works to cover the outer rims of the blurry, well hidden realms of the climbing world. It’s as if there is an invisible cloak covering these places and refuses them to be known. A journey into such places requires tedious searching or maybe a secret passport that would likely open gates to a new land.

This is exactly what Philippine climbing is like. Not much of it is known and only a few share the knowledge of the veiled entrances to its cliffs. There is no 400 route guidebook, no complete accounts on the net, no “how’s”, no “what’s”, no “when’s”. A peek into the conditions…? – No hot showers, no overpriced food networks, no TV, but yes, there is exceptional climbing. It is a cradled child - pure and full of promise.

Location

Cantabaco, Cebu
It is perhaps, the first destination to head towards for a sampling of what climbing in the Philippines can offer. It is in the Visayas Region, in one of the most festive islands of the country of Cebu. Right in the middle of the small town of Cantabaco, accessed via a one hour journey through the jungle, into the island’s heart, lays the country’s premier local climbing destination. The omnipresent streaked limestone cliff stands over the small town. The “V-hire”, the local transport to the area, stops on the mention of a name, “Manang Virgie.” This name belongs to a woman of short stature, a woman exuding a motherly aura with her rotund physique and constantly cheery eyes. She owns probably the only “carinderia” or local food establishment in town. Chanting “kina Manang Virgie lang po,” like a spell over the driver’s ear, will surely charm the V-hire to stop in front of her store which is by the road side upon which all V-hires pass through. “Manang Virgie”, though it translates literally to “Elderly Virgie” does not always imply age - she is probably not yet in her golden years. “Manang” is also an expression used to convey respect - she is the one person who holds the key to a lovely stay in the area. For nearly more than half a decade, Manang Virgie has arranged for all of our adventure needs. She is the person to go to for accommodation, your food needs, and even the ghost stories she reluctantly tells. She provides solutions for your transport needs if you need days off from climbing - just head to Moalboal Beach and partake in the Karaoke sing-along. The local entertainment is difficult to evade when in the company of fun loving local climbers.

Image below: Aldwin Ibanez hangin' in there on Kanta Ba Ko (f7b)

What it’s like?
Your alarm clock will sound off incessantly in the mornings and you can’t do anything about it. Several perched roosters in the chicken pen let off blaringly high pitched cackles, sometimes in unison, which is hard to ignore. Your consciousness now comes into focus as you try to decide whether to take the early morning ice bath in the outhouse or just go straight to breakfast. Whether you go down to Manang Virgie’s for coffee first and delay the onset of icy water on your skin, or to totally scrap the idea of an ice bath, is entirely up to you. Your breakfast will be of your own accord. There are no pre-written menus or any chalked-up “dish of the day.” You could ask her to cook specific meals you may want to try. If it’s a local dish, she can serve it. Try “Adobo” – chicken/pork marinated in soy sauce, vinegar and garlic and then stewed or fired, “Lechon Cebu” – a local specialty, open charcoal pit roasted pig and “Tortang Talong“ – fried eggplant in egg batter. Of course you can always opt to ask her for the common sunny side up eggs on toast. There will always be something familiar no matter the time of day.

You finish up breakfast, stand up together from the only table inside the small eatery and cram your way out by the roadside. The canopy of huge Acacia trees shadow your short walk across the concrete, before they make a turn toward the river to which they bring you. To cross, there is a small makeshift foot bridge made of bamboo. The slight cracking of the foot bridge gives a very provincial feel as you make your way across. Just before going into the jungle is a small shack with an old couple. They guard the pass and will ask you to log your names in a record book. This is mandatory and has been arranged by the developers of the area. You just need to fill in your name before hiking up the slopes.

Drawing nearer and nearer the cliff, your anticipation mounts. For first time visitors to any one area, there will always be awe and surprise. The cliff of Cantabaco is no exception. The better view of the cliff comes when you finally reach the top of the hill where there is a flat clearing.

Routes
The whole of Cantabaco cliff is divided into two sections, right and left, with the right side more exposed, resting higher on the slopes and having a flat belay area; while the left side rests more into the jungle’s slopes.

Image left: Rocky Lok starts his Never Ending Journey (6c+)

The routes are graded from 6a to 8a, with a majority in the 7 range. The entire wall is loaded with different styles of climbing. Pockets, tuffas, overhangs, crimps and slopers characterize the entire cliff. It’s clean limestone. All routes are natural and bolted exquisitely for really good climbing. There are about 40 routes up on the cliff. Recent bolting gave way to new 35m long pitches. The prospect of new bolting in the coming October 2009, promises an additional 10-15 new routes. The coming season might bring forth some 5’s and hopefully a handful of new 8’s.

Warm-ups
The short hike might not be enough to warm you up. If that’s the case then there are several very recommendable routes for you to hike on. Try the 30m “Never Ending Journey” (6c+) which starts on easy, nicely spaced pockets running up towards a dihedral. It continues for quite a long way and finishes on some slopey holds. Try “Cinnamon Pwet” (6c+), “Itchy Flutterby” (6c+) and “Vina Kulafu” (6c), all running on clean limestone and all of which begin to be a bit sequential to the top. Some easier routes are on the left side of the cliff. Some say the routes are soft for the grades. There’s much debate on these things and it is far better to just climb them rather than muse over numbers.

The 7s’
The entire crag is best suited for those hacking it in the 7s’. The majority of the more stunning lines rest on Cantabaco’s right side. “Tok’s Jeks” (7b) and “Unsa Mani Mikko” (7b) both play on very clean limestone and then suddenly venture onto some tufas that seem to come out of nowhere. Playing on these tufas can be a delight as most of the other routes run clean only on pockets. “Kanta ba Ko?” (7b) translating literally to “Should I sing?”, a question you’ll probably answer later in the night, and “Chikinina” (7b+) start clean on orange crimpers before making a break for the roof section halfway up the cliff. Cutting loose on these two routes is quite picturesque. Chalk up on the lip with both feet hanging loose for a classic photo.

Top 3
If you’re looking for a challenge and something to get your teeth into, I have compiled a short list of what may be the top 3 routes in the area. Start with “La Filthy Gringas” (7c+). It begins with an easy climb on a huge tufa and then about halfway it starts. Holds become crimpy, the wall becomes almost blank and the moves become quite sequential. Unlocking this piece is sweet for an onsight attempt. “White Flower” (8a) begins with a fingery crux section which is almost bouldery. The holds on this one bite back and the moves are quite unorthodox. It is not your usual route as it requires some trickery and some serious “kung-fu” - unless you have your own set of trickery. To the top - it eases up for a fine view of the surrounding area. Finally, “Lust for Lime” (8a/8a+). Yearly, for almost half a decade, a climbers flock here every October. It’s been dubbed “Lust for Lime” right after the route. Clearly it says much about the celebration of the route and what it means to the “pinoyclimbers,” especially the locals of Cebu. The route has come to mark a sort of emergence, a milestone, an awakening of sorts for climbing in Cebu and perhaps the Philippines. The route is the first of its grade in the country. It may be soft or even just right for the grade but it has truly become a bit of an icon and is a definite must try to anyone visiting the crag. “Lust for Lime” follows a line of crimps on the heavily overhung section of the cliff. The 45 degree overhang runs for about 5 metres on the middle of the route. This short section needs to go fast and furious. At the end is a slopey, balancey finish. By this time you’ll need to slow down your motors and move carefully on the slopers. It’s quite a switch, so it becomes a good mix of both techniques.

The biggest allure of Cantabaco can’t just be the climbing, can’t be just one route or just the provincial feel, the culture, the food - but a collaboration of all of the above…and then some. Take one away and surely the feel won’t be the same.

Image below: Kristine Robles tasting Vina Kulafu (7c+)

Getting There
Dart out for Cebu, Philippines from NAIA Terminal 3, via Cebu Pacific. Direct flights to Cebu are also available from Hong Kong. The small airport of Mactan Airport in Cebu is quaint. It will be easy to find a cab/taxi just outside the departure area. Hire the taxi to take you directly to City Link (PhP 200.00-250.00 or $4.00-$5.00). “V-hires” take you to various points in Cebu. Ask for the one that goes to “Lutopan.” The journey will take a little over an hour. The serpentine mountain pass through the jungle will take you to the heart of the island. Ravines, giant elderly trees and narrow passes await you on your trip. There have been considerable confirmations too from several travelers about seeing “White Ladies” when traveling by night - ask Manang Virgie for the full story. The “V-hire” will only charge Php50.00 or $1.00 for this scenic ride.

Mention “Manang Virgie” to the driver and say you’re climbing in Cantabaco - you can’t go wrong. Only a few “V-hires” are in operation to the area so it’s not too difficult to know everyone.

Getting Out

From Manang Virgie’s hire a “habal-habal” - a motorcycle that can carry up to 5 people, to Lutopan (Php 10.00). From there take the “V-Hire” to City Link. It’s no use waiting for a “V-Hire” in front of Manang Virgie’s store as it gets full at the terminal in Lutopan.

When to Go
The cool breeze comes in December to February. These are the best months to visit and climb in the Philippines. The air is dry and humidity is lower than most of the other months. The 3rd Sunday of January also boasts the Sinulog Festival. The colorful parade of costumes, dance and lovely faces line the streets of Cebu City. It’s a very festive celebration and can be a great compliment to your climbing trip. Although it is still possible to climb during the months of summer, March to early May, the heat may become a bit of a nuisance especially if you’re used to cold weather climbing. Climbing is not always possible from June to September. October to November is the height of the semester break and so a lot of climbers will be flocking to the crag at this time. It can be quite fun to meet new people but it can get a bit crowded for some tastes.

Where to Stay
The climbing area is a new one but much has been done to accommodate climbers going its way. The priest’s house is the best place to stay. It’s good for a huge group of 10 to 12. It’s got its own showers, a refrigerator, and a very nice porch to hang out on. If that is full, which is unlikely, you can take the next best rooms. They’ve recently furnished 4-5 small rooms further to the back of the priest’s house. Each is good for 3-4 persons, there’s an electric fan in each room and a common out-house across the chicken pen area. If those get full to the brim, there is the option of Spring Park. Sometimes Manang Virgie can arrange for private houses to take in visitors. This usually happens when there is a big amount of climbers coming in for “Lust for Lime” rock trips. Excluding Spring Park, a night’s stay in any one of the places costs Php150.00. A night at Spring Park can cost up to Php1,000.00, depending on the room.

Food
Breakfast at Manang Virgie’s is probably the best and most convenient. Walk down the main road, sit down and get your morning coffee. For meals you can arrange with her what to eat for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Meals cost no more than Php 40.00-70.00 - depending how deep your pit is.

There are also a few other food options on the main road. There is “Isaw” barbeque (chicken and pork innards) and the ”Puto” (rice cake), both recommended and worth a try. In the mornings, there is a delivery van of bread that passes through. Getting up early is a must to catch this one.

If you wander off to Lutopan, a 10 minute motorbike ride, you can walk through the market adventure for yourself. Fresh ripe mangoes here will be cheap and are highly recommended pickings.

What to Bring
Bring in at least a rack of 15 draws for the long routes plus your usual climbing gear. A mosquito repellant can also be quite handy.

Rest Days
Too much crimping? You can arrange for day trips or even overnight trips to Moalboal Beach on your rest days. Moalboal is the one of the prime beaches in Cebu. White sands and the less populated beaches attract with a more serene nature. Dive shops here also offer short diving courses. The small town of Moalboal also has some more provincial attractions, an old church and some good old street food.

Image below: Roll on rest days - Moalboal Beach

All-in-all, a climbing trip to Cebu is really raw. Setting the Sinulog Festival aside, a trip to the cliffs of Cantabaco is a less than touristy excursion filled with cultural diversity. Not too many people have discovered this gem and perhaps this article may provide a glimpse into it’s secrets. It may be unlikely that climbing in Cebu will rival the climbing in Asia’s prime destinations but the lack of the commercial, tourist feel will set it apart.

Further Options
Once in Cebu, further doors will open up. You might want to stay for further adventures into the Philippines. The nearby island of Iloilo also houses another cliff, Dingle. Further to the west too is the island of El Nido, Palawan. The island’s many sea cliffs hold vast potential for deep water soloing. Up north in Baguio and Sagada, deep into the mountains, are boulder fields just lying in wait for the next wary traveler.

Useful Tips/Links
Exchange for Philippine pesos while in the city. Banks open at 9:00 a.m. Mondays to Fridays. There is no other more reputable place to change currencies other than a bank.

English is spoken almost everywhere.

A trip to the Philippines is cheap as dust. If you plan, you can probably go to all areas in a month or a month and half.

For further info and images visit:
http://dennisdiaz.multiply.com/ or http://www.facebook.com/dendiaz
The website www.climbphilippines.com is still under construction. Continual updates on this will posted on the Multiply and Facebook pages above.

Review: Escalade en Brianconnais

2009-09-04T10:42:00.011+01:00

By Greg Chapman

Guide/Author
Escalade en Brianconnais (JJ Rolland, 2009)

This new guide by JJ Rolland (not to be mistaken for JK Rowling), is a long awaited edition for those English climbers seeking availability of a predominantly single pitch, sport orientated climbing guide, for areas in the locality of Briancon, France.

The areas covered in the guide all lie within the Hautes Alpes region, in the south east of the country. For those unfamiliar with the Hautes Alpes area, it incorporates a vast swathe of southern alpine terrain, between the Ecrin Massif, to the west, and the Italian border to the east. The crags are generally clean, well equipped cliff lines of Limestone and Granite and offer every grade imaginable, from 3 to 8c+. The guide subdivides the region into 11 areas – Vallee De La Claree Et Vallee Etroite, Vallee De La Guisane, Briancon, Vallouise, L'Argentiere La-Bessee, La Roche De Rame, Freissinieres, Vallee De Tramouillon Saint Crepin, Guillestre, Queyras and Embrunais. Each area consists of between 2 and 12 crags, which are well presented throughout the guides 304 pages.

“Escalade en Brianconnais” runs in the same vein as many of the more recently produced European single-pitch guides, in that, it is a much slicker and usable production, compared with those of a few years back. Throughout the guide there is a sensible to-and-fro from photo-topo to diagram usage (relating to crag situation), to display routes. Whilst the approach and overview maps seem clear and concise, displaying orientation and scale information. Photo-topos are, for the most part, sharp and easy to use, with clear tight lines marking the way. The diagrams are a little more old-school, appearing to be scanned sketches. That said, they are still clear, well reproduced and simply annotated.

Image left: S Foissac on Ouech Ouech (Rocher des Brumes), f8a+.

While the guide contains little in the way of English text, it has obviously been designed with a multi-lingual audience in mind, as throughout the entire work most information is relayed via symbols – explained via a legend at the start of the guide –, which give approach time, rock type, child friendly status, climbing style, route lengths, best season, direction faced and grade spread. The route descriptions are generally short and uncomplicated, i.e. they give route name and grade, and that's about it. The only sections where non French speakers may come unstuck are the initial approach details for each crag – as these are fully described in French. Unlike some other recent topo guides, there isn't a simple dictionary at the front of the guide. Therefore if you intend to be fully reliant on this guide, it may be worth remembering to accompany “Escalade en Brianconnais” with a phrase book or language dictionary.

Summary
If I was to offer one negative point; I would have liked to have seen a few more inspiring action shots. Overall this is a smart, easily usable topo guide which should allow non locals much easier access to the wonderful sport crags of Frances Hautes Alpes region.

Purchase the Escalade en Brianconnais guide here.

Review: Montrail Continental Divide GTX

2009-08-27T14:50:00.014+01:00

By Greg Chapman

The Montrail Continental Divide GTX is a superb all-rounder. End of. I certainly wouldn’t point you at this shoe if you’re after a super lightweight performance fell shoe, or even an impact loving, mile munching road shoe. If, on the other hand, you’re after a (very!) well fitting, lightweight, waterproof shoe for some trail and road running use, combined with oodles of light hiking and/or approach work, then this could definitely be the shoe for you.

The standard version of this shoe (non GTX) is in truth a highly competitive trail running shoe, which can handle a fair bit of road time too. However, any serious fell runner knows that the addition of GTX (or any membrane for that matter) to a performance off-road running shoe merely hinders breathability and if used in full-on fell conditions (i.e. off trail or track) can operate counter to it’s original purpose, in that if the shoe is completely submerged it will hold water inside the upper, rather than draining quickly, as with a more specific unlined fell shoe.

If the idea of an excellent all-rounder at primo price brings music to your ears, what else should you consider before purchasing the Continental Divide GTX?

Well, let’s start with the fit: I have read in some quarters that this shoe sizes up on the small side, although I found the fit to be on the money. Having said that, they certainly aren’t large fitting so if in any doubt perhaps go up half a size. In my view, this shoe has a superb overall fit; combining a snug, suction fitting heal and mid-foot, with a roomy toe box – making high speed down-hilling a comfortable and more enjoyable experience. Despite the external aesthetics alluding to a high ride height, this is somewhat of an illusion. The external EVA is sculpted high up the side of the shoe; however the foot actually sits much lower than this, maintaining good stability in use. Removing the foot bed will also lower the foot in the shoe - if you are looking for a more performance fit - although this will also create more volume, so remember to take this into account when sizing your shoes.

The sole and mid-sole of the Continental Divide GTX are also well thought out, offering a Gryptonite – Montrail’s well established own brand sticky compound - rubber outsole, with a low profile but well treaded design, plus a TPU protection plate along the length of the shoe, between outsole and inner. The TPU plate is designed to shield against protrusions from below and help hold the shoes natural “rocker”, which in turn promotes a more efficient gate motion, in the runner or walker.

Summary
Whilst not a precision or specific piece of kit, this is a fine piece of footwear for a plethora of activities. Whether it’s a spot of trail/road running, a stout hike through rough terrain or just as a general purpose outdoor shoe, you could do a lot worse than to pick up a pair of the Montrail Continental Divide GTX’s.

Purchase the Montrail Continental Divide GTX here.

Review: Lundy Guide

2009-08-20T13:34:00.008+01:00

By Dave Westlake

Guide/Author
Lundy Guide (Paul Harrison, 2008)

There are a number of key elements for success when undertaking the mammoth task of guidebook writing. Broadly speaking, there needs to be inspiring photography, useful maps, clear and logical organisation, and most of all the book needs to be easy to use. The old adage, “never judge a book by it’s cover” is usually sound advice, but when the book is a climbing guide the cover has an important part to play in both representing both the book and the area it documents.

The team behind the latest edition of the Climbers’ Club guide to Lundy clearly acknowledge the importance of an inspiring cover shot and it is the glorious image of Neil Dickson on The Cullinan that makes an excellent first impression. A few pages in and the captivating imagery continues, with shots of standout crags the Devil’s Slide and The Diamond keeping the adrenaline flowing.

Superb photography is something that has set recent guidebooks apart and the action shots in the CC guide to Lundy are some of the most inspiring I have seen. Even more important than the action shots, the topos and maps need to be perfect, and this is where a lot of the old CC and FRCC guides have fallen short. Endless text descriptions that are difficult to follow have made route finding (and even crag finding) a real pain. Being told the route follows ‘the obvious crack next to the big groove into an obvious corner’ has left me frustrated many times! A venue like Lundy, with its complex hidden zawns and long and involved approaches requires some exacting descriptions with full photo topos and detailed maps. Thankfully Lundy (2008) fits all these criteria very well. Features to identify your exact location are clearly described and I cannot think how this aspect of the guide could be improved upon.

Lundy even comes with a folded Harveys Map to further aid navigation, and I found this very useful when deciding if we were above the right crag before committing to long abseils.

However, while Lundy (2008) excels in all the categories that make a good guidebook, the aspects I like most about it are those that make it unique. Lundy is a place like no other and the atmosphere of the island really comes through in the pages of the guide.

The introduction is excellent and gives a good feel for the place while also conveying all the information you might need for planning a trip. The usual educative sections on the fauna and geology of the venue are particularly interesting but the main appeal, and the difference between this and previous guides, is the way it deals with the history. This is set out at the back of the book as a detailed chronology interspersed with some fascinating commentary. Rather than being a somewhat dry segment on the daring deeds of past generations, this format really brings the islands climbing history to life. It is no surprise that this section has been lovingly researched by one of the island’s recent activists, Neil Dickson, who has done a superb job.

Image above: The Magic Quay (E3), from the Pilot's Quay area featured in the guide book.

Other nice touches to look out for are the pale blue text boxes which give some additional background to the landmarks and the islands heritage and the pale red text boxes warning of rock falls, tidal considerations and other important points.

All things considered, Lundy (2008) is a great improvement to the previous edition and an excellent attempt to guide visitors around a venue which is inherently difficult to document. Lundy (2008) is further evidence that climbing guidebooks are increasing in quality at a very fast pace. With the recent guides from publishers like Rockfax, Vertebrate and the BMC guidebook team setting the pace it’s good to see that the Climbers Club are producing books that are as good (or perhaps even better) than all of them.

Overall verdict: 9/10

Relevant link/s
There is an additional free PDF supplement to Knight Templar Rocks, available via the Climbers Club website here.
Purchase the Lundy guide here.

X-File 20: Yangshuo County, China

2009-08-13T14:18:00.014+01:00

By Dennis Diaz

Area & Style of Climbing
Sport Climbing

Location
Yangshuo County, China

Overview
March 2008. Mist obscures the landscape in mystery. Walking through the rice fields, shadowed under a seemingly endless maze of karst giants, keeps me feeling there is a secret to be found in this realm of the orient. The cliffs are covered in fog almost the entire time and it is a rare opportunity to see very far into the horizon. The unrevealing nature of Yangshuo keeps you looking and searching. The entire mountainscape is vast and the possibility of finding unclimbed cliffs is not a question, at least for now.

Best Time to Go & Conditions
There are two seasons best suited for climbing in Yangshuo. The first is the height of Autumn - September to early November - good climbing conditions are at their optimum with the climate getting cooler towards winter. There is little rain but it can get hot on the south facing walls. Spring - March through to May - presents another option with cooler temperatures in early March. However weather quickly changes in Yangshuo, no matter what the season. One day you’ll be climbing in shorts, another day you’ll be wrapped up to your neck in a number of layers, and still some days you can find yourself walking with an umbrella. It is best to pack with this changeable weather in mind.

Image top right: Team China Climbers at Moonhill Crag. Photo by Dennis Diaz

Winter will be too cold to get any good climbing in, and summer gets too hot and humid for a pleasurable experience, therefore both these seasons are best avoided.

Image left: Hot Air Balloon over Yangshuo Mountainscape. Photo by Dennis Diaz

Rainfall
Rainfall is particularly unpredictable in Yangshuo. Rains can go on for 2-3 days, stop for a week and then continue for another 2-3 days. Even in the height of summer, it rains.

Getting There
The best way to get to Yangshuo is through Hong Kong as it is the central hub and ideal for travel through Asia. This travel route is best suited to those coming to Asia for the first time. Once in Hong Kong, take the MTR (Mass Transit Railway) straight from the airport to Lo Wu Station. You will have to walk through immigration at Lo Wu/Shenzen as this serves as the border to China and Hong Kong. Buses to Guilin leave at 7:30 pm and 8:30pm from Shenzen terminal. This is just across the border. There will be lots of bus operators that will haggle with you. The overnight bus to Yangshuo will cost you 250RMB.

Accessibility
Taxis or hire vans are the main form of transport to the crags. You can take the public taxis/vans going to White Mountain and Wine Bottle. A one way ride costs about 2.5RMB. Going to other crags requires hiring a private service. You can arrange to use the latter at China Climb, the local climbing outfit in the area. They have a list of trust worthy operators which you can text using your mobile phone to request a pick-up once you’re done for the day. If you are in a group of 8 people, 3-4RMB will get you a one way ride to almost any crag. You can also opt to rent bikes or a moped but it’s not the norm.

Accommodation & Provisions
Yangshuo town is riddled with tons of cheap accommodation. You only need to walk down West Street (the main street) to find numerous hostels and inns running along the narrow alleys in between the shops. The farther from West Street you travel, the cheaper it gets. Look out for Rock and Grill. It sits a fair way from West Street and is quieter at night. You can always strike a good deal with the owners for longer stays. Cheap stays are at 25RMB a night but can rise to around 30-40RMB depending on the season. Yangshuo is a tourist destination and as such will be more expensive in the high season (October and April).

The author, on the Red Dragon (f8b). Photo by Saso Hribar

Guide Book/s
Title: Yangshuo Rock Climbs.

I would recommend you buy the book at Karst Kafe. They keep all the new updates and revisions in a log book you can also borrow, which is useful as the book has seen various amendments.

Grade Spread and Recommended Routes
There has been a rapid increase in the number of routes in Yangshuo. Chris Sharma’s visit last spring contributed to the grade spread shooting from 5.8 to 5.13 to 5.14d (a possible 9a). There are still a lot of open projects and there are now a good number of high end routes to sink one’s teeth into. A route can be found for all climbers at varying levels which makes Yangshuo a prime destination in Asia.

Image right: Scott Fisk hovering at the Riverside Cliff Area. Photo by Dennis Diaz

Those seeking to explore the secret mystery of Yangshuo can try Lighting (8b+) at Lei Pi Shan and Red Dragon (8b) at Moon Hill. White Mountian hosts copious amounts of quality climbs, mostly in the 7b-7c range. The Tic Tac Smuggler (7c) and Yangshuo Hotel (7b) are among the finest. For easier climbing, Wine Bottle and The Egg will be the best places to go. Climbs here range in from 4-6c+. Try Miracle of Lankou (5.9) and Empty Jug (6c+) at Wine Bottle to get you warmed up for Yangshuo rock. At The Egg crag try Mr. Greenwood (7b) and The Never Ending Story (6a+), a 130ft two pitch route you could do in one push.

Those after something meatier can sink their teeth into one of Chris Sharma’s routes. You can check them out at Karst Kafe. Videos of his last trip to Yangshuo can be seen on the Momentum Video website: http://www.momentumvm.com

General Tip/s
It’s quite comfortable in Yangshuo. One thing to keep in mind though is the farther from town you go; the less likely you will be to find English speakers. There have also been cases of theft so be sure not to leave valuables unattended. The small town of Yangshuo is jammed with tourists in the high season. Some of the prices on West Street should not be taken at face value - haggling for a better price at shops is common and should be indulged in. Try to learn some valuable Chinese phrases; some places don’t have people who understand English at all. Great food can be found in the narrowest of spaces and alleys. Walk around the alleys away from West Street and you’ll find great food to fill your bottomless pit of a stomach for 6RMB per meal! Some dumpling stores are open until 2:00am.

Useful Links
Flights: www.ebookers.com
For some general info into touristy stuff in Yangshuo: www.yangers.com
A good website dedicated to climbing in Yangshuo: www.karstclimber.com

Current Local Weather Conditions

X-File 19: San Gottardo Bouldering

2009-08-07T10:18:00.017+01:00

By Greg Chapman

Area & Style of Climbing
San Gottardo Pass - Bouldering

Location
Switzerland, Alps

Overview
A fantastic and little known (in the UK anyway) granite bouldering area in southern Switzerland, comprising of 13 sectors (400+ problems) flanking the San Gottardo pass, which itself links the Canton’s (states) of Ticino and Uri. The bouldering is generally situated on blocks and some small craglets, mainly over glorious grassy landings and in fantastic settings, between shallow melt water pools and hanging alpine meadows. Despite their geographical locations, most of the sectors are only a short walk from the applicable parking area, making the venue worthwhile for a quick hit if you are staying nearby by or just passing through.

Image right: Rune Osvald on Trieste Gottardo, fb8a.

Best Time to Go & Conditions
The area is situated at over 2000m; as such the best conditions occur between May and October, however this is generally a moot point, as the pass is closed (due to snow) until late May or early June. Due to its alpine setting the weather can change fairly rapidly, so it’s worth taking a warm jacket, even on seemingly warm summer days.

Getting There
Although many of the cheaper air carriers have canceled many of their UK to Switzerland connections, northern Italy is still well serviced, especially Milan-Bergamo airport. Milan-Bergamo airport, or Orio al Serio as it correctly termed, can be accessed from many UK airports – including Liverpool, Stanstead, East Midlands & Leeds-Bradford – via Ryan Air, Easy Jet and Jet2, for extremely reasonable prices.

Accessibility
The climbing is situated approximately 2.5 hours (by car) from my recommended destination airport of Milan-Bergamo, and a similar distance from Zurich, in northern Switzerland. The area is not massively extensive and a competent climber, looking to have pleasant circuit sessions, could cover all the sectors in two or three days. As such the area is optimized by being linked into a summer bouldering trip, whereby you combine it with a whistle stop visit to the nearby Sustenpass, and then a more extended stay in the vicinity of Magic Wood, which is only a couple of hours NE of the San Gottardo pass.

Accommodation & Provisions
There are plenty of guest houses and grocery stores in the towns and villages at either end of the pass. If you are wanting to camp (it is summer after all!), a good bet is the campsite in the scenically set and Heidi-esque village of Andermatt to the north, or possibly Wassen, another village situated at the north end of the Gottardo Tunnel, and only a few kilometers from the Sustenpass boulders (there is basic online topo for the Sustenpass boulders here). Wild camping on the slopes around the (San Gottardo) boulders is, according to the guide, prohibited.

Image below: Unknown climber on the super classic Ecstasy, fb7a.

Guide Book/s
Title: Gottardo Boulder / Price: €15 (roughly)

This guide is currently unavailable in the UK; however it can be purchased from some of the local tourist information offices and campsites. I’m unsure of it’s availability in Uri, however if you drop down into Ticino, and follow the E35 south (or better still drop in on your way north from the airport) to the small town Biasca, it can be purchased here from the tourist information office, in the centre of town.

Grade Spread and Recommended Routes
The grade spread of the area lends itself to the font4 to font6c+ (V0-V5) climber, however there are limited, but absolutely world class, lines up to font8a (V11). If visiting the area for the first time the sectors of, and around, “Scary Christmas” and “Ecstasy” offer a good concentration of problems throughout the grades.

Some Recommendations: Bowling for Colombine 5+ , Solenodonte di Cuba 6a, Alibi di Cristallo 6a+, Swiss Corner 7b, Trieste Gottardo SDS 8a, Ecstasy 7a, Il Marochino 7a+, Ponstan 500 6c+, Scary Christmas 8a, Pover Chriests 6a+, Petit Cube 6a, Korsakow 7a+, Alan Parson Project 7a.

General Tip/s
As stated above, due to it's limited CV in terms of harder climbs, the stronger practitioner will get the most from Gottardo, when segmenting a trip into visits to here, Magic Wood, the Sustenpass and perhaps even the northern Italian spot of Cimaganda. Whilst all these areas are at reasonable altitudes, there is a misconception that good conditions can always be found at Magic Wood, during the summer months (in fact spring and autumn are the best times to visit), and many people disregard all other possibilities and head straight for 'The Woods'. While it is beyond question that Magic Wood offers the best bet when seeking a high concentration of harder lines in summer, it's worth remembering that, if the temps are particularly high, better conditions will nearly always be on offer at Gottardo, and whilst the harder climbs are limited they are mostly excellent!

Useful Links
Biasca Tourist Info Location - www.biascaturismo.c (for guide book purchase)
Article - Bouldering in Switzerland (overview of most areas in southern Switzerland)
Flights - RyanAir, Jet2, EasyJet
Car Hire - www.carrentals.co.uk (good price comparison site)

Current Local Weather Conditions

Review: Red Chili Matador

2009-07-27T09:42:00.018+01:00

By Greg Chapman

Ask anyone climbing at the time, and they’ll tell you that Red Chili caused quite a stir, when they originally launched their range back in the late 1990’s. The strong iconic branding and outlandish Mexican names, a contrasting tack away from the sedate colours and conventional model names used by the popular brands of the time – Kendo, Velcro and Dominator, seemed seriously tame compared to spicy labels such as Dos Equis, Habenero and Torro.

The superb branding, active advertising campaign and most importantly, an intense program of getting shoes on the feet of everyone, from top rock stars to ‘local heroes’, in a gargantuan effort to persuade the youth of the day that these were ‘the’ shoes to be seen in. And it worked… for a time.

This is just my view but; over the proceeding years, and despite the fact the brand was (is?) undoubtedly one of the major players, in terms of numbers of shoes sold, the efforts to keep the top-end side of the brand fresh seemed to fade somewhat. There was the introduction of Ben Moon to the ranks, and a trendy ‘sex sells’ advertising campaign, but that aside, fewer and fewer hot shots were seen in the shoes; this at a time when the old players (La Sportiva, 5.10, Scarpa etc.) were fighting back with a mix of flash new designs and branding, more reliable supply and improved build quality. Whilst Red Chili, it seemed, were putting less and less effort into producing performance shoes. It is an assumed axiom, that while a large percentage of a manufacturers rock shoe sales are driven through entry and mid-level shoes, to offer at least one ‘kick ass’ performance shoe in a range is crucial – having Johnny Hero consistently seen to be climbing 8c+, E10, V13 or whatever, in your shoes, is to subconsciously draw the consumer to your brand, and hopefully buy into it on some level.

Image below: Red Chili Matadors, put to the test on the smeary sandstone delights of Big Buoy (7b/V8), St. Bees Head, Lake District, Cumbria (first ascent).

In 2009 Red Chili launch their new flagship shoe, in an effort to persuade the hardcore activist/consumer that they can still cut the mustard when it comes to producing performance rock shoes. They recently gave me a pair of the NEW Matador to test out, to which I must confess, I was initially pretty apathetic. However, after field-testing these suckers on various terrains, over a number of weeks, I’d have to say that these shoes not only look and feel good, they perform supremely well!

Let’s get one thing straight. I’m not saying that Red Chili ever produced bad top-end rock shoes; I’m just saying, that in my view, their latter day offerings just weren’t quite as good as the competition – they didn’t seem to hold their shape as well (they stretched a lot when worn tight), the rubber was unbranded (less sticky?) and the overall design specs were pretty old hat. All these points have been thoroughly assessed, rounded upon and rectified in the NEW Matador.

Last & Fit
The last of the Matador is a great compromise. When I originally saw the shoes I was expecting them to be quite toe-down, similar to a 5.10 Dragon or Evolv Talon, which whilst not a bad thing would limit their spectrum of use. However, on using the shoes I soon discovered the last to be far more forgiving, still offering excellent performance on steep ground, but also quite adept on more vertical terrain – think 5.10 Dragon/Jet7 merged with a La Sportiva Katana. The fit is pretty low volume and the shoe contours to your foot in all the right places, the toe box visually seems quite narrow, however I have quite a broad forefoot (e.g. I can’t wear 5.10 Verde’s) and found the shoes to fit very well in this area. The heel is also very good, again quite narrow, fitting/holding well and externally being fully encapsulated in rubber.

Stretch & Build Quality
In the past I’ve had a bit of a beef with Red Chili shoes for stretching overly after only a few sessions, a problem which is compounded the tighter you wear your shoes. Unlike many Red Chili shoes the Matador is entirely synthetic, with the added bonus of a well adhered rubber toe-shield on the upper, helping the shoe retain its size and shape after multiple sessions, even when worn tight. The pair I received have softened up a fair bit from their initial state; however I am informed by Red Chili that the production shoe will be slightly more robust, so this should prevent too much softening. Despite my shoes softening up they have actually stretched very little, so this consistency should help when initially fitting the shoes as a potential new customer. On a similar note the build quality also seems pretty good, although as far as I’m aware Red Chili’s have always been pretty reliable on this front.

Closure
The shoe uses a triple Velcro style strap set-up, which offers plenty of adjustment.

Rubber
I believe the Matador uses Red Chili’s ‘Super sticky 4.2mm RX1’ rubber, which in terms of branding, means very little to me. However, as with anything the proof is in the pudding. I used the shoes on a number of surfaces (limestone, sandstone, granite, rhyolite and a 45 degree training board) and to be honest I can’t fault it – whatever it is, it’s pretty damn sticky! I’m told that the sample shoes I have, use a particularly soft version of the rubber, and to increase the longevity of the shoes, the finished product will offer a harder compound, so I’m unable to comment on the rubber used on the production shoes. As I touched on earlier, Red Chili have affixed a rubber covering to the upper of the toe box, and this is a really top drawer job – supple, smooth and forgiving, while still offering ‘real rubber’ friction – and possibly the best effort yet, by any manufacturer endeavoring to completely rubberize a toe box.

Image below: The Matadors offer good precision and purchase on steep training boards.

Summary
As yet, I can’t really find fault with the NEW Matador; it is highly precise and well fitting, with a particular penchant for steeper terrain, especially anything involving foot cams, locks and hooks – the rubberized upper of the toe box is par excellence and, in my view, unrivaled by any shoe currently available. When the need arises the Matador also performs admirably on more vertical ground, although the relatively soft mid-sole suggests you wouldn’t want to be standing around on your toes for an overly long period. Overall Red Chili have done a standup job of assaulting the performance end of the market, and if the production shoes perform half as well as the shoes I have I think Red Chili may just be about to cause a stir once again.

Purchase the Red Chili Matador here.

X-File 18: Val Masino, Italy

2009-07-22T09:11:00.016+01:00

By Andy Hyslop

Area & Style of Climbing
Val Masino offers a wide range of climbing from bouldering, bolted sport routes, trad style cragging to long alpine rock routes.

Image right: The Piz Badile (left) and Piz Cengalo

Overview
This an important and historic alpine rock climbing area encompassing several sub valleys which are well served by alpine huts. The Italian side of the range is south facing and has relatively simple approaches to the climbs which are usually completely free of snow by mid summer. Most of the mountain routes are between 2000m and 3000m.

Some of the best alpine granite climbing in Europe is situated in this area. The rock is superb and often weathered into fins and flutings which enable unlikely looking faces to be climbed at moderate grades.

There is some fixed gear but you still need a full rack of nuts and friends. Belays and abseil points are often well equipped on the classic routes. Some of the shorter routes close to the huts are fully equipped sport climbs which are useful when the weather is uncertain.

Bad Weather Alternatives
The area is well known for the rock climbing of the Mello Valley. The climbing is at least a 1000m lower than the mountain areas so there is a good chance the weather will be better in the valley if it is bad in the mountains. While there is a wealth of fantastic granite climbs in a Yosemite like setting, in Mello there is a lack of easy classic routes. You would need to be confidently climbing E2 to make best use of the valley routes.

Image left: The big mountain feel at the start of the Molteni Route on The Badile D+

Just down the road from Mello there is a popular sport climbing area with a full range of routes from French 5 to 8c. Most of these routes are situated on a group of huge, (hotel sized) boulders next to the road. The down side is that this area can get very busy.

Within an hours drive of the valley base of San Martino there are numerous ‘Euro Cragging’ sport climbing venues, some of which are excellent.

Best Time to Go and Conditions
Late June is favorite. The huts are open but not busy. There is less chance of afternoon storms and the days are long. The disadvantage of June may be that some of the routes will have snow at the base and you may need a light mountain axe and crampons to approach/descend the longer mountain routes.

July and August are popular months and September would also be good, with the possibility of long settled spells as the weather cools down.

Image below: The ultra classic 18 pitch Gervasutti Route, Punta Allievi

Getting There
Unless you are planning a trip of more than 2 weeks, flying is the best option from the UK.

Several budget airlines fly to Bergamo airport near Milan. This is a convenient location for accessing many of the best Italian climbing destinations. Val Masino is around 2 to 3 hours drive from Bergamo.

Jet2.com fly to Bergamo from Leeds/Bradford airport.

Ryan Air fly to Bergamo from Glasgow, Liverpool, East Midlands, Luton, Stansted, Bristol Dublin and Shannon.

Accessibility
Hiring a car is time efficient and will give you more options in the event of bad weather. If you have time on your hands then you can get the bus into Milan followed by a train to Morbegno and finally a bus up to San Martino.

Accommodation & Provisions
San Martino is the main valley base. Having been spared the curse of ski resorts and lift systems the small town is relatively undeveloped and, in stark contrast to other alpine centres, it is a pleasant place to spend some time. It is strategically positioned at the junction of the valleys with Mello to the east and Bagni to the west and has a selection of small shops and bars including a climbing shop.

Image right: 'Euro Cragging' on hotel sized boulders, guide book not required.

If you are only in the valley for a night before heading up to a hut there are plenty of bivi spots on the road between San Martino and Bagni or you could stay in one of the reasonably priced hotels for around 40 euros/night.

Once you are up in the hills the options are either camping or staying in a hut. The huts are excellent but cost around 38 euros/night including breakfast and dinner. If you choose to camp there are plenty of excellent grassy sites close to the huts.

If you are climbing in Mello for an extended period there is a campsite about 1km up the valley from San Martino but vehicle access is restricted at peak times so you may have to leave your car in the town.

Guide Books
There are at least 4 guides covering this area.

Schweiz Italien Plaisir Sud - This guide has less routes than Solo Granito but the topos are a world apart. Recommended.

Bernina and Bregalia - This is the Alpine club guide. The layout is dated but the route topos are reasonably accurate and the additional route information is very useful. Being relatively small in size it’s an easy guide to carry on routes.

Image left: Superb granite climbing near the top of the Dente Della Vecchia F5+ (Friend 3 useful on the last move!)

Solo Granito - Has a good selection of routes including all the classics. It also includes some routes in Mello. On first inspection this guide has everything you need but in practice the topos for the longer routes are poor to the point of being utterly useless. The layout and indexing are also badly designed.

Mello Boulder - Covers the wealth of bouldering in the area. There is more information on bouldering in the area here.

Grade Spread and Recommended Routes
The area offers something for everyone from hard bouldering to long classic mountaineering routes. You will get the most out of the mountain areas if you can confidently climb HVS to E1.

Mountain routes which have long descents and may be difficult to get off if the weather turns bad:

* Piz Bidile SE Face, Molteni Route D+ (Gianetti Hut)
* Punta Sertori - South Ridge AD+ (Gianetti Hut)
* Piz Cengalo - South Ridge, Vinci Route TD (Gianetti Hut)
* Torrione di Zocca - South Face, Parravicini Route TD- (Allievi Hut)
* Punta Allievi - South Ridge, Gervasutti Route TD- (Allievi Hut)

Image below: The Allievi Hut with the Punta Allievi behind

Multi pitch cragging routes which are less committing and relatively easy to get off in bad weather:

* Dente Della Vecchia F6a (Gianetti Hut)
* South Ridge, Punta Torrelli F5c+ (Gianetti Hut)
* Top Ten F6b (Allievi Hut)
* Lady D F6a (Allievi Hut)
* Guronsan F5c+ (Allievi Hut)

Area Overview Map

Useful Links
Summit Post - Val Masino
Flights: Jet2.com & Ryanair.com
Car hire: Carrentals.co.uk (good comparison site)

Current Local Weather Conditions

Review: Kahtoola Crampons

2009-07-15T21:54:00.030+01:00

By Andy Hyslop

The summer alpine season is upon us and if you are in the process of making final decisions about what gear to take, and what to leave behind, the chances are you are wondering what crampons to take (if any).

Image: Approaching the Dente Della Vecchia

Should your objectives be mainly rock, as opposed to long classic snow routes, you will certainly be looking to minimize any extra snow and ice gear that you might require. One way to do this would be to opt for one of the Kahtoola crampon systems and leave your Scottish winter crampons at home.

On a trip to the Val Masino area of Italy earlier this month I had the opportunity to try some Kahtoola Aluminum Crampons whilst my climbing partner took a pair of Kahtoola Micro Spikes.

Terrain

Val Masino is a fantastic granite rock climbing area which has some non glacial snow approach depending on seasonal conditions. This spring many of the classic routes required some snow and ice gear to approach or descend from them. The snow was partially frozen in the morning but very soft and unstable in the afternoon. The slope angle was never more than 45’ but there was one tricky gap between the top of a long slope and the rock which caused us some problems.

Kahtoola Micro Spikes

Image: Micro Spikes dealing with old frozen snow.

My partner had the Micro Spikes on a pair of La Sportiva Trango boots. You could argue that this is a bit of a mismatch and that
Micro Spikes would more suitable for approach shoes but he developed some ankle problems and had to opt for more
supportive footwear.

Micro Spikes are tiny steel triangles arranged on a chain lattice which is in turn attached to a thick rubber band-like binding. The rubber binding fits tightly around the upper of your boots or shoes (assuming you buy the correct size). The Micro Spikes were quick to fit and secure once in place.

On unstable wet snow the tiny spikes didn’t seem to make much difference over a regular Vibram sole. However, on frozen snow the spikes offered enough purchase to make a significant difference.

Image: Micro Spikes - a neat fit.

Kahtoola Aluminum Crampons

These crampons resemble something approaching what you would normally expect in a crampon. The spikes are still relatively
short at around 10 mm and the crampon is in two parts with a leaf spring connecting bar. The webbing straps have a side
release buckle at the ankle and a ladder lock buckle for the front. Length adjustment is quickly achieved via a sprung pin. The front and back sections of the crampons slide together when not in use and pack up neatly together.

The longer points meant that these crampons did provide reasonable purchase on soft snow and acceptable grip on frozen snow as well.

Being aluminum these crampons are very light (240g lighter than the steel version), but the down side is that as soon as you touch rock the points round off very quickly. For example; stepping off snow onto a granite slab, arranging a belay and bringing up the second was enough to require re-sharpening.

Images: Kahtoola Aluminum Crampons fitted to approach shoes.

Summary

You are definitely in an area of finely balanced compromise with light weight crampons. Micro Spikes may work to an acceptable level on low angled névé and I can image them working well in the California Sierra where you get iron hard banks of old snow below routes (known locally as Sun Cups). If you envisage any conditions where you might encounter soft unstable snow you would be much better opting for Aluminum Crampons. For extended trips and all day glacier travel where durability would be an issue the Kahtoola Steel Crampons would be a better bet.

Important Note: We strongly recommend the use of an ice axe with any crampons in the mountains.

X-File 17: Lourmarin Sport Climbing, France

2009-07-02T11:36:00.014+01:00

By Dave Westlake

Area & Style of Climbing
Lourmarin – Sport Climbing

Location
France, South

Overview
A little known crag that is popular with locals and home to some outstanding routes on limestone that is unusual.

The crag was developed in the 1980’s but suffered from access problems for several years, while climbing was banned. Recently, the crag has opened but still does not appear in any guidebooks. The team from nearby climbing shop, Happy Boulder (www.happyboulder.com), are involved in bolting new lines and opening new sectors.

Image: Simon "Way Rad" Downing on Overdose (7b) Photo: Graham Cooper

Best Time to Go & Conditions
The best conditions are generally found in spring (March – May) and autumn (September – November). It is possible to climb throughout the year, although like most of southern France in the summer, it can get very hot.

Getting There
If you can be flexible about when you travel, flights can be as little as £0 plus taxes and charges - the cheapest overall price being around £30. The nearest airport to the climbing that has a budget operator is Nimes (about 90 minutes drive). This is a small airport but is well served by Ryanair.

Lourmarin crag lies next to the road (D943) just before you get to the village of the same name, coming from the North. It is about 1.5 hrs drive from Nimes and about 20 mins drive from Apt.

Accessibility
Having a vehicle is not essential, but it will make things easier. Getting to Apt is possible on public transport but would take much longer, and a car gives you the freedom to explore the other crags in the area easily. Once at the campsite in Apt the climbing is only a 20 minute drive away.

As you approach Lourmarin from Apt the crag becomes visible on the left – park on the small track to the right.

Accommodation & Provisions
The cheapest place to stay is “Les Cedres” campground, in Apt. This is conveniently located 2 minutes walk from the town centre. Basing yourself in Apt is a good idea as it gives you access to the other crags in the area - most famously Buoux which is only about 15 mins drive.

The price of camping is €2.50 per person per night plus €1.80 per tent.

The campsite is spacious and even has a small climbing wall and an excellent kitchen area, with fridge and freezer facilities. The showers and washrooms are also of a high standard.

Guide Book/s
Currently (2009) not in any guides, but the climbing shop in Lourmarin (see link below) have up to date photocopied topo’s available. These are free but please consider supporting the shop by buying any supplies as this helps fund the bolting (and the staff are very friendly too!).

For a download of an outdated topo click here.

Grade Spread and Recommended Routes
The crag has over 40 routes and the best climbing is mostly in the 7’s and 8’s, and the quality of rock on the few 6’s is generally not so good.

My recommendations would be: Overdose (7b+) , Clairvoyance (7a+ /7b+), Suidose (8b), Sepultura (7b+).

General Tip/s
Being an esoteric venue, you need to be careful with the rock on some of the routes – it can be loose. Wearing a helmet is a good idea although the rock on all the best routes is generally solid.

The small town of Apt is well endowed with shops, bars and restaurants. The historic cathedral is said to be good for a rest day. The Provence region has a reputation for its food and, as you might expect in France, there is a very good Patisserie!

Lourmarin village is small and quaint with several very nice (and expensive) looking restaurants – I could easily loose an afternoon here drinking coffee and reading the paper!

The nearest climbing shop is in Lourmarin, which is about 15 minutes drive and is well stocked with all the essentials.

Useful Links
Flights: www.ryanair.com
Campsite: www.camping-les-cedres.fr
Gites: www.gites-de-france.com
Climbing store: www.happyboulder.com

Current Local weather Conditions

Attention all Writers: Content Required

2009-07-01T16:04:00.024+01:00

By Rock + Run

Ever thought of writing a review or article? If so this may be of interest to you.

We are looking for some keen outdoor orientated wordsmiths to pen us some articles, travel guides or reviews relating to the products which we sell, informative subjects (e.g. information on injury relief, training articles etc.) or destinations which would be of interest to the readers of our increasingly popular and diverse content database.

Essentially we are after around 500 words for a review or travel guide, and between 1000 and 2000 words for an article. In return for providing us with content we will (presuming we deem the text to be of a high enough standard) publish your material on our site and advertise on our weekly newsletter, which is circulated to 10,000+ of our customers – if you bear in mind that Climber magazine has a readership in the region of 7000, that’s not bad exposure! In return for your efforts you will also receive a down (for an article) or synthetic (for a review) sleeping bag worth £60 or £90 respectively. The travel guides are the simplest types of content to create as we supply you with a template, in which you fill in the appropriate information. For a completed travel guide and a couple of appropriate images, we will offer you a £25 gear credit, redeemable against any items we stock.

On top of this we will offer you the opportunity to do future literary work for us in return for further gear and/or cash return (subject to discussion and the level of the work).

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