News

Petit Aiguille Vert

2009-07-16T20:16:00.003+01:00

A great day and not too busy. Like a lot of others we turned back from about 3/4 of the way up due to steep and icy conditions. It seemed a lot steeper than the last time I was up and a lot less snow. Another day.

Aiguille du Tour (South Summit) 3542m

2009-07-14T22:15:00.003+01:00

We had an early start today from the Albert Premier hut (4.30am - well I suppose it wasn't that early) and made it to the summit by about 8.30. The weather was a bit cloudy and it didn't freeze at the hut last night which made the going difficult. We went via the Col Superior du Tour - the snow was soft all the way. The picture is of me and Dave on the summit this morning.

Gold DofE

2009-07-06T22:02:00.003+01:00

I've just finished working on a Gold DofE for a school from the Wirral. As usual the students were taking part in a 4 day expedition based in Snowdonia. I was manning checkpoints by Llyn Cowlyd on Friday; Saturday was a very wet and misty checkpoint on the top of Foel Goch (down the ridge from Glyder Fach, Sunday was located at the col of Bwlch Cwm Llan and today was a rather damp Bwlch Maesgwm below Moel Cynghorion.

The above photo is of a damp dog - Barti Ddu at Bwlch Maesgwm

SPA Re Assessment

2009-06-30T22:46:00.003+01:00

It was a very warm day today over in the Llanberis Pass. I was working for Blue Peris running an SPA reassessment for one candidate. Everything went well and he passed with very few problems. I was lucky enough to have a group of students for my candidate to use as real students. All the kids had a good time and were occupied at all times as opposed to the other group that were using Pont y Gromlech - there were 18 kids in the group and the instructors were operating ONE rope, not very inspiring.

SPA Pre Assessment

2009-06-30T22:36:00.003+01:00

I was working for the Outdoor Partnership on Sunday. We went over to the Ogwen Valley and spent the day looking at Single Pitch issues and techniques with 2 clients.

ML Refresher

2009-06-07T23:51:00.002+01:00

We ventured out on to Moel Siabod today to do some micro navigation using 1:25,000 maps. The weather was OK to start with but not not long after lunch the heavens opened and the wind picked up to give us some very unpleasant conditions and a high wind chill factor. All the chaps on the course were enthusiastic and were keen to learn.

An easy day on the slate

2009-06-05T15:23:00.002+01:00

After yesterday's big day we decided to take it easy and have a morning on the slate above Llanberis. We went to an area called Dali's Hole and climbed a load of sport routes between F5a and F6a+. I had a bit of a scare on the 6a+ as I got to the crux just as the rain started so I had to put a lot of trust in the wet holds. As usual, the rain stopped just as we were leaving.

The photo is of Andy on a F5b.

Western Gully - Ysgolion Duon, Severe!

2009-06-04T21:41:00.005+01:00

A lot of this.

With some of this.

Had a long and challenging day out on Western Gully - 300m, Ysgolion Duon (The Black Ladders). The guide book suggests a grade of severe and 3 stars. Well I think I'll reserve judgement until next winter as I suspect that this route is a lot better in winter conditions when everything is frozen and covered in snow. All I can say is that we had an adventure and that I won't do it again unless there's a drought. There was a lot of thrashing and steep vegetation for a little bit of good climbing so we weren't impresses with the 3 star rating or the grade.

West Rib HVS 4b,5a,4c

2009-06-03T18:58:00.004+01:00

Andy on the top pitch

Top of the second pitch

Single Pitch Award Training Course

2009-05-31T21:15:00.006+01:00

I couldn't have wished for better weather to run the SPA training course this weekend it was a bit too hot though!

I was running the course for 3 people on behalf of the Beacon Climbing Centre with Pete Marshall helping me out. We visited Lion Rock and The Upper Tier of Pant Ifan during the 2 day course. All the candidates were pretty much up to speed with things which made life a lot easier but they did bleed us dry for information.

The picture was taken below the Upper Tier of Pant Ifan with l-r: Bruce, Miles, Ben and Pete.

Cheers for now.

A Sunny Day on Glyder Fach

2009-05-24T21:21:00.002+01:00

What a day! It was another Association of Mountaineering Instructors trainee workshop and the weather was fantastic. The aim of the day was to cover scrambling with the use of a rope so we ventured on to the main cliff of Glyder Fach and made an ascent of East Gully Rib. There were quite a few people rock climbing on routes such as Hawk Nest Arete and Lots Wife.

Snowdonia was heaving today with parked cars in the most ridicules and dangerous places. We made the most of the day and kept well clear of the crowds. A good day was had by all.

The photo is of Alice and Alasdair about half way up the route. For more photo's click the link.

Back at last!!

2009-05-23T18:48:00.003+01:00

Well, its been a traumatic 7 weeks as I've hand my arm in a sling with a broken collar bone. I won't elaborate but all I will say is that involved a motorbike, tarmac and me!

I'm running an Association of Mountaineering Instructors trainee workshop this weekend and as it was a Bank Holiday we opted to get away from the crowds on Bochlwyd Buttress and, thankfully, everything worked out really well and the weather remained dry with some sun thrown in towards the afternoon. We managed to hang around on ropes for most of the day to do some Improvised Rescue techniques before the rain arrived just as we arrived back at the cars.

The photo is of (from left) Mike S, Mike H, Thom, Alice and Alasdair. For more pictures follow the link.

Llanberis today

2009-03-31T21:59:00.002+01:00

Gold DofE Training

2009-03-31T21:48:00.002+01:00

I worked down by Dolgellau last week with a group from Birkenhead School who were training for their Gold DofE. The weather was a bit damp (and cold at times) but we managed to stay mostly dry apart from some wet feet due to poor footwear. The two days I was out with the group were quite long days out with about 15-20kms covered each day. The students were very able and didn't complain at all.

The above is a shot of the group on day two with the Rhinogau in the background.

Great Western VS. Pant Ifan

2009-03-20T15:50:00.003Z

It was hard to believe that there were so few people at Tremadog today. The weather was even better than yesterday with a slight breeze to take the edge off the strong sun.

We decided to go for Great Western (VS 4b,4b,4c,-,4b) today and found it to be excellent, although I have done it before many, many years ago, so long ago, in fact, that I couldn't remember any of the route. The whole route has excellent gear just when you need it as we found the 4b pitches just as hard as the 4c pitch. All in all a brilliant day.

The photo is of Andy on the second pitch. Follow the link for more photos.

Brant VS 4c. Clogwyn y Grochan

2009-03-19T15:18:00.003Z

The weather is absolutely beautiful at the moment so we couldn't resist a trip up the Llanberis Pass for a quick route. We decided on Brant and had a great time with a steady but warm wind blowing it didn't feel like mid March at all and the views were stunning. I was glad that we managed to get out during the week as I think the weekend will be busy if this weather carried on like it is.

The photo is of Andy on the first pitch of Brant this morning. Here's a link to more photos of Brant.

Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon)

2009-03-11T13:43:00.006Z

Had a quick walk up Snowdon with Barti Ddu (my dog!) this morning and was surprised as to how much snow and ice there was around. Even though the temperature was a couple of degrees above freezing on the summit there was a substantial amount of snow around with a base of hard ice. The wind was fresh from the south with the damp mist down to about 600m.

On my way down this morning I passed quite a lot of people on their way up (I presume) to the summit I was surprised as to how ill equipped some people were considering the conditions. I passed one party in trainers and jeans and had a chat with them when they asked me what it was like on the top. I just hope they heeded my warning and advice and only went as far as Clogwyn Station as this was were the snow started. Some people just seem to have a death wish and have no compulsion to prepare for the mountains by checking the mountain weather reports and ensuring they are properly equipped and know how to use that equipment.

OK, I'll get off my soap box now. The above photo is of Barti about 15-20 mins from the summit on the Llanberis Path

AMI Workshop - Mountain Day

2009-03-08T20:37:00.004Z

We had a constructive day looking at and practicing short roping techniques up in Cwm Idwal today. We worked our way up the right hand side of the Idwal Slabs up to Seniors Ridge and then down to the normal descent off the Slabs. We then went up the descent and over the top of the Slabs through some fantastic rock scenery back to the start point.

The weather was changeable to say the least with strong winds, hail, snow and a little bit of sun thrown in for good measure with freezing level hovering around 500 - 600m.

The above photo is of Geordie, Simon, Will and Alun at the start of the scramble in Cwm Idwal.

AMI Workshop

2009-03-07T22:16:00.002Z

It was such a nice start to the day with blue skies and hardly any wind. The team decided that they wanted to look at Improvised Rescue and a bit of Multi Pitch Climbing. It was hard to believe that the forecast was for rain and wind by mid afternoon but we decided to go down to Tremadog in order to get some shelter in the trees.

It started out dry and settled but, sure enough, by 11 o'clock the rain, wind and mist descended upon us and the remainder of the day was cold and damp but not as wet as I had anticipated. We did what we could and everyone seemed to be happy with the day.

Mountain day tomorrow!

Winter Walking Course

2009-02-26T19:58:00.002Z

Hi folks. I was working at Plas y Brenin again today on a Winter Walking Course (well not much in the way of winter!). I had a fantastic day with a great group who were really keen to learn some navigation skills and I think we all enjoyed the day as the weather forecast was wrong up until the last hour or so on the hill when it started to rain on us. We did come across some large patches of snow but they were very wet and didn't pose much of a problem as we could avoid all of them.

We were dropped off at Gwern Gof Uchaf along the Ogwen and navigated our way up Cwm Tryfan and up on to the ridge we then followed the long ridge back to Plas y Brenin in plenty of time for tea and cakes.

The photo is of the team on the summit of Foel Goch with the flanks of Glyder Fach in the background.

Single Pitch Award Training Course

2009-02-22T22:31:00.006Z

Worked for Plas y Brenin this weekend on a SPA Training course. The course had a full compliment of 8 candidates with various experience and backgrounds which made for a great course. I worked alongside Andy Teasdale who was the director of the course. The weather was a bit on the chilly side but was mostly dry apart for the odd shower.

The above photo is of the team including Andy T (light grey top and white helmet) Link to other photos.

Tremadog

2009-02-15T19:58:00.003Z

Now that the winter conditions have disappeared (for the time being, I hope) we decided to make a trip to Tremadog for some rock climbing. As the weather were very damp/wet the only route likely to be dry was Striptease (HVS 5a) which proved to be exciting and a bit damp in places.

The photo is of Mark on the first pitch just above the first bulge.

Trinity Face - Snowdon

2009-02-12T14:32:00.002Z

Had a quick solo trip up Central Trinity (grade II) this morning. Conditions were fantastic with near perfect neve on the top half of the route. I was a bit disappointed that some of the other classic routes looked really thin and some were devoid of snow in sections - this was probably due to the thaw over the last couple of days. Lets hope it stays cold for the weekend and next week.

The photo is of a party nearing the top of Central Trinity this morning.

Introductory Gully grade II

2009-02-07T14:40:00.010Z

Had a quick trip into Cwm Idwal this morning with Andy to Climb Introductory Gully which separates the Idwal Slabs from Homicide Wall and goes at about grade II. The conditions were not as good as I was expecting as it was only just freezing and the ice that was on the route was a bit sugary and hollow in places. It did give some good sport but the main bonus was that we had the route to ourselves with only one party below us. We had intended to traverse around to Afon Ifan (Idwal Stream) but I counted 24 people on it so we decided on a short day and a brew.

All the popular routes were being climbed but the main news was that the Devils Appendix had an ascent today from some Plas y Brenin staff which was a fantastic effort given that it looked a bit thin in the middle section. I think if we have a bit of a thaw and then a cold snap then the conditions will get really good.

The top photo is a long shot of Clogwyn y Geifr (Devils Kitchen) and the bottom photo is of Andy on the first pitch of Introductory Gully.

Enjoy.

ML (Summer!!) Training at Blue Peris

2009-02-04T09:31:00.003Z

Well, the Mountain Leader Training course came to an end with a lot of snow and quite extreme conditions. The last couple of days were challenging due to the snow but we managed to do what we needed and only the last day was effected by the weather. The heavy snow resulted in us having to walk down to Lion Rock from Blue Peris (a distance of about 2 miles) to do some ML ropework but by midday we had to except defeat and retreat back to the centre due to strong winds and snow. All in all I think it was a successful course despite the weather and everyone seemed to go home happy.

Conditions are looking good for some more good winter climbing conditions, a bit of a thaw would be great in order to consolidate the new snow and generate some ice. Watch this space.

Hwyl am y tro (bye for now)