PDRacer

Michael Storer's shoestring tour of the USA

2009-07-13T10:55:00.001+10:00

The PDRacer community and Duckworks have grouped together to collect small amounts of money to put together to bring me to the USA to go to various "messabouts" (messing around in boat weekends) as well as the Intergalactic Championships of the PDRacers in Georgia in October.

Duckworks is collecting and managing the contributions.
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/boatmik.htm

The PDR communitiy will host me at different houses and organise lifts between different places as much as possible - a real shoestring tour.

My aim it to pay back people's generosity by doing anything that they want me to (within reason!!!). So talks, discussions, Q and A, boat setup clinics, sailing lessons, boatbuilding workshops. All is fair game!

My itinerary is looking something like this...
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Arrive LAX around the 15th unless I can find a cheap way to stay in LA to catch a couple of museums/galleries.

Train or Bus to Oregon
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Sept 18 to 20 Coots Messabout Timothy lake – Oregon
http://coots.org/calendar/2009/0909/0909.htm

Plane to Salt Lake City - $90
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Hosted by Chuck and Sandra from Duckworks (my USA Agents) through to From Utah to Texas
http://www.duckworksbbs.com

Sept 24? to Oct 5? Jim Thayer's Kokopelli cruise – Lake Powell, Utah
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/09/gatherings/koko/index.htm

South East by Road to Texas with Chuck and Sandra.
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TEXAS! (maybe side trip to Florida to see cousins and Paul Riccelli PAR and others - funded by Storer)
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Hopefully get a lift from Texas to Georgia with one of the Duckers - John Wright has offered.

9 to 11 October - Georgia PDR 2009 World Championship
The location is the Victoria Campground on Allatoona Lake near Atlanta, GA. Here is a link to details about the campground: http://tinyurl.com/m4meuo
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17 to 18 October Texas Messabout.
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NE (Maine, NY etc - need to check with contacts - don't have any messabouts or events set up yet).

Now a bigger version of the OZ PDRacer

2009-07-07T15:17:00.006+10:00

The PDRacer international forum started discussing a longer version of the humble PDRacer - and I had some drawings on hand already for a 12ft version because of Bob Alston. He actually thought up the name, which I quite like.

We really do recommend the OZ PDRacer for most people and you do need to purchase the plan for the OZ PDR to build the new almost 12ft PDGoose.

For $20 extra you get an additional plan and license to build a 12ft version of the OZ PDR.

The Story
Bob Alston contacted me a couple of years ago wondering how to change the just under 8ft (2.4m) Oz PDR into a just under 12ft (3.5m) boat more suitable for two people. The standard OZ does take a passenger fine and sails well, but it is not a particularly participatory place to sit.

However, stretching the boat to 12ft allows two people to sit side by side as in the cover illustration. So it would be simple to share the sailing responsibility. One with the rudder and one with the mainsheet. Much better for sharing and learning.

The nice point about the PDGoose (Bob’s name for it) is that it uses ALL the bits the same as the OZ PDR – so rudder, tiller, centreboard, mast, the same two sail options. So if you have an OZ ... you can build a OZ PDGoose hull and go sailing with friends

The 12 footer will be able to carry quite a lot of weight and might make a good boat for events like the TEXAS200 event, though a lot of preparation and knowledge about the boat is necessary for tough events of this type. We recommend the lug sail with an extra reef point.

A bigger boat when friends drop round
The PDRacer is the ultimate in cheap, light and easy. It is a boat that a sailor can dominate because it is so small, simple and light. Not to mention easy to store and transport.

There are lots of arguments for not getting a bigger boat if you really don't need it. Listen to them! The great thing about the original PDRacer is that it is so simple and quick to use. The hull only weighs about 65lbs.

However I think some PDRacer owners will enjoy having a PDGoose as well as more people can go sailing with you and it will be a little bit faster than the PDRacer which might be useful sometimes.

The goose has the same enclosed side tanks as pioneered on the OZ PDR so if you do capsize the boat will float on its side and then will come upright with very little water aboard. See the capsize sequence for the PDR here.

Uses the same bits as the OZ PDR
Everything for the OZ PDRacer and the OZ Goose is identical except for the hull. This means if you have a PDRacer, you can just build the Goose hull and transfer all the working bits across.
One Caution
The mast for the OZ is strong enough for one person leaning out hard – so you can sail the PDGoose very hard singlehanded. However when sailing Two up I would recommend that the crew only sit comfortably on the side decks and not lean out hard – otherwise the mast might break. If you do want to build a real two person OZ PDGoose mast I will be designing a new mast for it later.

From Bob

I will bet you thought I dropped off the end of the world when I never got back with the results for the PDR Goose version.
I must confess I did not take the boat out at all last year, but, the goose is FANTASTIC!!! I had a bout with the "big C" last year, and didn't get much done at all.
However, the hull you designed is so great I intend to build another one just for use with a motor.
In 2007 I took the PDR GOOSE out a couple of times with a motor before my health probs kicked in, and I went in the water, on purpose, and brought all 155 kilos of me up over the side of the boat with NO problems. got caught out in a sudden blow where the wind was hitting 38 miles and hour with my wife on board and took no water in. the hull design is fantastic.
(Michael says: this is probably an exaggeration as to wind speed and probably represents a high point for the day taken from the weather report in the evening. I don't recommend that beginning sailors go out in that wind strength and some experienced sailors will probably decide not to as well!)
Do I owe you something for the hull I am building now? this one is only for use with a motor, but adhering closely to your design.
Sorry I took so long to get back in touch, but just thought you would like to know about the goose.
Have a great day, and have some FUN with it
Bob Alston

Texas 200 mile race has several ducks

2009-06-10T19:38:00.006+10:00

This year's event started on Monday - Texas time!

It is a 200 mile event with a fleet of boats making their own time up the coast to meet for the Magnolia Beach Messabout.

They meet together at a camp each night.

It is predominantly a downwind sail - PREDOMINANTLY!

The fleet numbers looked like being around the 50 mark with 5 PDRacers in the list.

From the top is Andrew Linn's Salem Electron, derived from the OZ Mk2 PDRacer. It is yellow now.

Gordo Barcomb from Texas and then Jason Nabors - with another of his extraordinary cabin PDRacers - TENACIOUS TURTLE. Just heard that Jason spent 13 hours on the water today making his 40 miles to cover the distance in the 5 days.

Kevin Allison "Duck 'n Out". Jon Kowitz and "Ranger"

I will post here as the event continues.

MIK

PDRacer launched in Slovenia

2009-05-14T23:56:00.000+10:00

We had one PDR launched in Romania last year. Now we move a little to the south.

Koala and Theodor are both building OZ PDRacers after building one of my Eureka Canoes last year.

Theodor was interrupted a bit because he and his wife have had a baby, but Koala invited him along to the launch.

Koala launched his green PDR onto a local river. Neither of them has sailed before ... and they had a great time.

They had better get some practice in. Csaba in Hungary is not too far from their favourite sailing lake and is build an OZ as well!

Well, we had a launch day on monday!!

Beautiful weather, nice wind at first. And it was great. Theodor and I each had a go. It was, well, beyond words. Have a look at how it went. There were a lot of kids arround so it was a bit hectic. But we have some shots of my start:

YouTube - PDR launch Slovenia

And here is Theodor:

YouTube - PDR launching, Mark

Later on I went in with my son to paddle a bit and the wind got stronger so it carried us to the other side of the lake. Theodor cam to rescue.

From Theodor (Mark):I am so sure Peter is holding a clip of the video showing my attempt at the 'Capsizing Drill', and then he'll say that I was a wreckless sailor and had no idea how to handle the boat, blah blah blah...

I think we both had a fantastic time trying to get a handle on things .. it never ceases to amaze me how many things you need to concentrate on while sailing - direction, mast tension, wind direction, what the centreboard and rudder are doing, etc. I think it'll take a few more attempts to get a good feel for the boat - I was completely surprised when the corner of Pete's PDR kept "digging in" (see the two times the back corner came up). So I'd love some Storer sailing hints before we get out again.

I must admit it was very inspirational to get cracking on my one.

From Koala

Funny, we did have a capsize drill. But Mark was so fast turning the boat arround that by the time video camera turned on he was already climbing on the boat.

I didn't want to show the whole world just that moment as someome might think Mark just fell off the boat

Yep, this is really a nice boat - thanks to Mike's detailed plans. Considering
1. I was a first time boat builder
2. I have never done any sailing.

This was the first time I stepped into a sailing boat and you know the feeling when it's your boat

The small boat is BIG enough to keep us buisy learning to sail and enjoying the power of the wind on lakes and sea.

Speaking of wind. I really had problems seeing the wind direction besides the fact that wind was changing speed and direction quite often.
Mostly I didn't see the white flag on the top of my mast so I was just looking at how and when the sail was behaving.

PDRacer Questions answered - Forum Index

2009-03-31T12:47:00.004+10:00

I have compiles a list of topics discussed on my forum. Hope this is useful.

To see all the images and information you do need to be a member, but it is free and you won't receive any annoying emails unless you ask for them!

OZ PDRacer – Puddle Duck Racer

PDR - OZ PDRacer Mast Timber Thickness - 10mm?

PDR - PD racer, outboard & row

PDR - A newbie PDR owner

PDR - A plywood centreboard and rudder for PDRs

PDR - Another OZ MK2 PDRacer build in Sydney "Wood Duck"

PDR - Building the PD Racer

PDR - Building the PDRacer in Slovenia

PDR - Cruising a PD Racer - 3 days on the Rhine.

PDR - Goolwa - the first Oz PDRacer championships

PDR - Jib on A PD Racer? Gennikers or "Code 0"

PDR - Luis Builds a PDRacer - a pro woodworker view from Mexico

PDR - New PDR build - Boston, MA USA

PDR - New Queensland PDRacer Build

PDR - Nick's PD Racer

PDR - Oz PDR build in Adelaide - sexy black PDRacer

PDR - OZ PDR Sails - using a Sunfish sail for some serious frostbiting - USA only

PDR - OZ PDRacer - Dylan's build in the Philippines

PDR - OZ PDRacer Sailing under bridges

PDR - OZ PDRacer Vids

PDR - Query concerning marine ply for OzPDR

PDR - The Rally Cars didn't make it to DAKAR but the PDRacers did

PDR Build in the Philippines.

PDR in Perth?

PDR newbie introduction and questions - TEXAS!

PDR Racer State Titles???

PDR Sail Rig and spars (or Boatbuilding in the Philippines)

PDR skids

PDR Storage/Moving by hand

PDR, a good boat for a beginner? Can I use Hoop Pine plywood?

PDR, Lug vs. Spirit

PDRacer - Comparative Performance

PDRacer - just starting out

PDRacer - Lug rig option - yard too short?

PDRacer - optional solid mast

PDRacer - Oz Mk2 Version plans released. Comments, Questions etc.

PDRacer - Painting Polytarp Sails

PDRacer - towing behind larger boats

PDRacer & Goat Island Skiff Trailers

PDRacer and all other boats - is a lug, sprit or lateen the best?

PDRacer bottom undersize problem. Also is the bottom long enough? - no probs and yes

PDRacer Hungary; Egyszerű vitorláshajó építése Magyarországon

PDRacer Mast

PDRacer OZ - Can I use metric ply sheets

PDRs in the USA - Long voyages, meet-ups

Puddle Duck in the UK

General Building and other stuff.
RE: Using the Metric System in USA - getting tape measures and others
A cautionary tale.....
A different slant on flat bottomed boats
An easier way to set off? Tricky Launch spot.
Another amazing Storer Innovation
Antique Wooden Racing Dinghies with original parts - Pics
Boat design for fishing??
Brisbane Timber and Working with Wood. Boatmik/PDRacer
Changes/lessons from storerboats
Clamps for boat builders.
Computer cut kits
Design Question: What characteristics make for a good planing hull for a scow
Dory Boat yahoo group - interesting discussion :-)
FAQ - does a shallow keel improve tracking or upwind performance - canoes
Finding stuff on Storer's sites ... new search engine
getting sails and sailing lessons
Goolwa Wooden Boat Show 2009
Hollow Square Section Masts
How to paint, repair then repaint boats with a minimum of labour
I'm teaching at the Duckflat Autumn School
Lug Rig Heaven
Lumber quantities and a cutlist for the GIS
Making a Polytarp Sail
Mast making - Grain direction for mast staves
Michael Storer WoodenBoat Plans Forum - WELCOME
Michael Storer's Interesting Boat Links
Mik the Aussie Bolger! You there?
Modifications to a Whilly Boat
Murray River Photos from flight 221 (er actually 756) - a bit scary
Ooops...Epoxy Mistake
Proa PJOA Baltic trip 2008
Painting an epoxy coated boat.
Roofracking Canoes and small boats
Rudderbox, OZ type - OZ and Goat and Storer style rudderbox - avoid breakages
Saw blade for thin plywood?
Similar plans
Single-handing Goats on the Ground - all boats
Slippery cockpit floors and easy non skid surface
Small application for the scale of ruder etc.
Solid wing mizzen on Beth, RAID41?
Storer Boat Photos - Launchings and others
The Goat Lug...another use
They Let Him Loose
Traditional rig costs vs Modern rig costs
Two Storer Interviews at furledsails.com - podcasts boat design lug rigs
underlayment plywood
Where can I get Gaboon Ply in Sydney?
Where to sail?

PDRacer performance - lug or sprit.

2009-03-19T20:31:00.005+10:00

Ok ... lug vs sprit

We finally had two PDRacers with either rig option on the same stretch of water. The event was the Goolwa Wooden Boat Festival.

The Sprit sail design and making method is in the plan for the PDRacer (a whole $20 for 90 pages - really a course on modern boatbuilding) and the lug rig is a free option for purchasers of the plan.

Mike on the beach ... look at that sail shape. Is there enough sail Mike?

You can see a story on his boat ... the "sexy black PDRacer" below on this blog.

This was the first time the boat had been in the water.

Waiting for the start gun ... I sooo missed the start. Was really late trying to get clear wind and too far away from the line.

Mike got a very nice start and may have been in the first one or two boats to the windward mark before he had to come back and pack up. You can see the pink boat (me) trying to catch up. In this light, less than 8 knot breeze the lug was significantly faster. It does have a bit of extra area with 89 square feet to the pink boat's sprit rig at 82 square feet. Of course we will have to see what happens in a bit more wind!

And for those who wonder about the mast pressing against the sail ... the windward leg had the sail on the "disadvantageous side".

In other words, no material difference.

I took the pink PDR through the whole race ... confused my friends in the TS16 after I caught them on starboard on the last windward leg.

The PDR had the legs of the balance lug rigged 16footer furthest out when going upwind ... the guy was a very good sailor - outfoxed everyone on the first downwind leg by heading high and coming down fast on a increase on windpressure.

That was a boat of some historical significance too built as a tender to a major shipbuilding area in ... um maybe Melbourne.

Pic right is Mike coming in with his rudder in shallow mode. That buoy was attached to a long length of rope that went off to the left and was tied to the wharf.

It made sailing out of this space pretty crap and in the stronger breeze of saturday it made it exciting coming into the area too.
photos of PDRacers
Photos of the Goolwa show

And now another sailing event with boats racing against each other with experienced skippers. Link below
Sprit rig won by a nose, but the lug sail was still faster. A bit more wind and the lug doesn't seem to be as fast - though it didn't really have enough downhaul tension.

The sexy black PDRacer, do I have to race against that thing?

2009-02-19T21:05:00.001+10:00

A new local (Adelaide) PDRacer has been on its way for a few months now and is getting very close to being ready.

The picture right is what it looked like a few weeks ago. however things have changed. You can click on the pic for a closer look

Mike wrote:

Bit more progress this week.

Got the side decks glued along with the foredeck, had to do a bit of filing along the bow as I cut the sheet too short AGAIN. Rough cut the mast hole and fitted the front coaming. So hull just about ready for final epoxy coat and some varnish here and there.

Decided on a hull colour "A Ducks Transom" shall be black. Yep I know it will show every bump and hollow and black is not a good colour over epoxy but black it will be.

Wet sanded the foils ready for the final pox coat the spars are ready for varnish

Did I mention Shorty sent me the hull # ..........220

Mike

I did suggest to Mike: I don't know if you have taped the two short butt joins in the deck and glassed them yet.

but if you haven't ... if you are really careful not to go through the top veneer when you sand the slight hollow for the glass - if you just use unthickened epoxy to do that glass taping of the join - then it won't show except as a line.

Remember that any boat over 8ft has to have some sort of join in the deck - and the line that creates is almost never noticed ...

So you could have clear varnished decks and a black hull. Or if you REALLY want to cover that join I'd do the hull and foredeck in black but bring the black foredeck back along the sidedecks slightly in a premeditated way. I'd be reckoning it would look more than slightly cool.

And cooler for you bum too.

FINALLY yesterday ... Mike appeared again this time with pics. The PDRacer and materials were supplied by Duck Flat who ship all over Australia.

He accurately recognised that he was being very smug ... because the boat looks fantastic!!!

Um.....update time finally. I'm afraid the final finishing has taken a lot longer than anticipated but today I have been fitting bits and pieces.

Still have a some things to tidy up but it's pretty much done and I will be picking up my Lug from Duck Flat this week. I chickened out and got the tarp stitched up by a pro

Started on the bowsprit for the soon to be made code 0 today as well, cut out a pattern and marked onto a board ready for glue up no pics.

Cheers a smug Mike

Since then ... everyone has been congratulating him on his beautiful PDRacer!!!

In the end I had to write ...

Ducks are pretty humble ... but this one is rather gorgeous!!!

And you want ME to race against that thing!!! It looks fast sitting in the shed!!!!

Look at the shine on that centreboard and rudder! I think I need to do some sorting through of my pink boat.

It will be interesting when we meet because all the other local OZ PDRs - five boats are sprit rigs and this will be the first with the optional lug rig.

PDRacer launched in the Philippines

2009-02-10T23:00:00.002+10:00

Dylan has been building his PDRacer for several months and finally launches it in the Philippines on a lovely tropical beach.

But look what happens ... in the next set below. This could happen to you!!!! But only if you build a PDRacer. The fun thing was that none of it was planned.

2009-02-10T22:20:00.000+10:00

Fitting a simple towing ring for club racing.

2008-11-26T06:42:00.003+10:00

Most boats will not need that industrial grade solution above.

Click on the picture right for a larger view.

For (occasional) emergency towing the crew stays in the boat. you need a guide ring or fairlead on the bow. Club racing in Australia requires that it is 25mm internal diameter as a minimum.

The tow ring on the bow is much simpler!!!

This is because of lower loads. The tow rope goes through the ring - pull about the same length as the boat through. Take a full turn around the base of the mast then crew should sit behind the centrecase and hold the rope.

I have just added it to the plans and put it up on the blog. The attachment can be two 5mm (3/16") metal threads glued in carefully (wash the screws with solvent dry them, put thickened epoxy in the holes with a pipe cleaner dip the metal threads in the glue and screw them home. You can use a plastic fairlead for non club racing or attach the regulation tow ring with a saddle. Put washers underneath the saddle to prevent the deck from being crushed.

For non club racing ... a fairlead like this is neater

Towing Eye for the PDRacer

2008-11-25T12:09:00.001+10:00

Howdy,

Towing behind another boat can be one of the highest loads that a small dinghy can face.

Imagine if it fills with water and the mother ship is surging ahead in bad weather.

So how to distribute the load into a lightweight skinned structure like the OZ PDR.

OK ... here is how.

It might be overkill with respect to the two runners that go up the height of the bow transom, but everything else is quite minimal. The load is spread through the mast step structure and the bow transom. That is quite a bit of surface area.

Generally it is good to keep the towing eye down to help keep the bow of the towed dinghy out of the water and hopefully to make it stand on its tail a bit.

Going a bit TECHIE

2008-08-22T10:07:00.002+10:00

Some questions about centreboards and rudder design for PDRacers prompted this reply.

Most PDRs continue to be self design and self build, though the OZ is a boat with advanced features that doesn't mention them at all in the plan.

People just build the thing and find it works .... very nicely.

But ... here is some of the thinking about one aspect mostly - foils, but there is a nice list to prioritise any boat's performance at the end.
_________________________________________

A few decades ago everyone used to talk about getting an "elliptical
planform" for sails and foils.

In the racing classes it has not worked out that way at all.

This is largely that it is not really about the planform (what you
see) it is about the pressure distribution - which is invisible.

A foil with an initial parallel section near the hull, then a simple
taper below that has a pressure distribution so close to elliptical
that you will need a serious computer to find the difference.

So racing boats and sailplanes just don't care about looking
elliptical these days.

But ... tapered foils are cr@p to build ... so there may be another
way, with another bunch of compromises.

Because of the shaping of the OZ centreboard and rudder ... with the
flat spot between (it is the result of a computer optimisation done by
an aerodynamicist and is easier to make than the NACA foils and loses
only a tiny bit BUT is much more economical on materials - whew!) it
allows the flat area down the middle to be narrowed easily.

So that is what we do. The leading and trailing edge can get closer
together toward the tip of the boards!

Now ... the "tip vortex" of foils (usually called "induced drag", but
we are practical folk who like practical labels) is constant for
similar boats in similar lift/drag situations.

.... the reason to make them long and thin is that the standard vortex
will be conscentrated over a smaller proportion of the board, so you
will get more lift from the board.

Remember the tip vortex is created by high pressure water on one side
moving over to the low pressure side on the other.

If you have two ... then you have two tip vortices that will affect a
greater area of the setup.

List for performance ... Ive written this before so there may be some
differences...

1/ getting centre of effort lined up with the centreboard/leeboard
1/ enough depth and area for the centreboard/leeboard and enough sail
for the weight being driven.
1/ moving to the right position fore and aft to keep the hull ends
ends out of the water.
2/ sail trim on the water
2/ steering accurately
2/ setting the sails properly on the spars.
2/ sitting on the side deck when racing
3/ good foil shapes - made with a template like the OZ or using the
NACA00 series - there is no comparison for foils made by eye.
3/ Good sail shape and spar/sail interaction.
5/ A hull that is light and does not deform too much
7/ Aspect ration, elliptic sail plan
9/ Hull finish ... just so long as it is not really rough!

Best wishes MIK

First OZ PDR with the lug rig option launched

2008-07-03T22:46:00.004+10:00

Just got an email from Dan Taylor in Washington State, USA.

He is the first to provide pics of the OZ PDR with the lug rig option. The sail looks very nice indeed and the light wind and a perfect sunny day were the other necessary ingredients.

Here are his email and the pictures - thanks Dan

Michael
I finally launched my PDRacer last week. Enclosed are three pictures of my wife sailing it on a nearby lake, me on the inaugural sail in the bay two days before, me setting it up, and the boat on our Mini.

I am very pleased with the sail even though I ended up with about seven oz polytarp. This was more than my wife's old sewing machine could handle, particularly because I had forgotten your comment in the email about leaving the double sided tape back a little, so the needle didn't have to pass through it. So this is a sail without stitching, but so far, so good.

I love the looks of the sail. Every designer seems to use a slightly different profile. Yours is the one that grabs me the most visually. As far as the lug goes in general, it is really nice to have all of that sail area in light airs and it jibes like a dream.

The boat was built exactly to your design with the addition of rowlocks and a small seat over the centerboard trunk. (Good Idea!!!)

So far we only have had it out in light air, but are very pleased with it. Fortunately only light air, because we both have a lot to learn and we need to do some tweaking. My wife is a very good Sunfish sailor and small boat sailor in general. I am a more casual sailor with most of my experience in larger boats. Right now we have the sheet led like the sprit boom version, but I am going to re-lead it the way you have the GIS. (Good idea too)

My wife at 62 and me at 72 also have a hard time scrambling about in that small cockpit. She wants me to build a rudder box with a tiller that raises--particularly because in light air she likes to sit on the cockpit sole leaning back against side tanks and would love to just scoot her bottom across when tacking. I can't argue with that, but generally just think we need more practice so we are not tripping over the tiller and sheet and getting the tiller extension jammed in the corner of the cockpit as we stumble around.

I would probably recommend shortening the tiller by about 50mm (2") and see if that helps. I think it might make quite a difference.

If you want a lifting tiller .. If you attach the tiller to the top of the rudder blade then this idea will work. Problem with a hinging tiller on the open back rudder box is that the box will break when the tiller is swung up as it relies on the tiller to take the sideways loads. Thanks Gil Kolan for that idea!

On my inaugural voyage the square knot on the lashing for the boom block came loose and I had a difficult time getting the boat into irons so I could get the block re-fastened to the boom. I finally succeeded, but then heading back towards the dock pointing in lighter airs, I unintentionally got in irons and ended up drifting up against a pedestrian ramp to another dock. Fortunately the light winds allowed me to fend off without damaging the sail.

All of which says nothing about the boat, which is terrific within the limitations of it size, and says everything about us, particularly me, and the practice we need.

I suspect that if the boat gets hung up in irons then the sail is a bit too far back compared to the mast. If it is moved forward slightly .. maybe 50mm (2") or 100mm (4") then I think the "in irons" problem may go away.

As our summer here has finally started (Bellingham, Wa, in the Pacific NW), we should be able to do that. Intentional capsizes though will have to wait for another month to let the water warm up a little.

The boat with four oz glass on the bottom, but no other epoxy coating used, and with the addition of the rowing seat ended up weighing about 75 lbs.

Some say that glass cloth over the bottom of the boat adds negligible weight. However experience indicates otherwise. Not because glass is so heavy, but because wood is so light. So small amounts of glass make quite a bit of difference.

Dan has done the smart thing and reduced the weight of glass, but I have some new information that indicates he could probably have gone lighter still.

Dan's weight for the boat indicates a weight increase of around 10 to 12lbs. Normal 6oz woven glass cloth(200gsm) would add about 15 to 18lbs. Quite a lot in some ways. I have done a bit of chasing around and have found that some quite large cruising trimarans (Jarcats) use very light glass cloth and plywood weights not much greater than the PDR with very good results on a much heavier boat. So for people wanting to glass I would probably be recommending 2oz (75gsm) glass just to keep the weight increase down to around 5 or 6lbs. A very good solution!

Anyway just wanted to let you know I finally launched.
Dan

To modify an OZ PDR transom for a small outboard.

2008-07-01T19:04:00.004+10:00

I promise in the plan for the OZ PDRthat I will do a modification for a small outboard. This is a big enough reinforcement for a very small outboard or maybe an electric trolling motor.

A small motor would be under a couple of horsepower. Something bigger would probably not make the boat go much faster, but put a lot of load on the transom.

There are a couple of other mods I would recommend if you wanted to go bigger than a couple of horsepower - including a knee to attach the outboard reinforcement to the hull bottom for the smaller outboards the side tank faces will have the same effect and spread the load through the structure.

Thanks to David Gomm for making pushing me along on this.

You can get a large version of the drawing if you double click it with your mouse.

An alternative solid mast for the OZ PDRacer

2008-06-05T16:10:00.005+10:00

The OZ hollow mast is the bee's knees - the nicest mast we can come up with at this stage. A simple long box with the faces made of 4 planks 12mm (1/2") thick with a taper.

Easy enough to build about 35% to 40% lighter than a solid mast. Making the mast out of a number of pieces of timber also reduces the risk of a hidden defect in one of the mast planks bringing the lot tumbling down.

HOWEVER ... many people want to get the boat on the water quickly. I have drawn up a solid mast that will have the same bending characteristics as the OZ so will suit the sailshape that comes with the plans to give acceleration and nice handling when the wind gets strong.

MATERIALS
The piece of timber you need will have to be a minimum of 60mm square (just under 2 1/2" square). This might mean that you have to glue it up out of two pieces to get the width. I would recommend the timber be free from knots or major grain deviations and be around the density of oregon (fir) or pine (Hoop or good Radiata (Monterey Pine in the US).

It does require that you consider some hull modifications with the mast partner - READ ALL OF THIS ARTICLE!!!

CHANGING THE PLAN DIMENSIONS
You can click on the image on the right to get a better view. You simply have to look at the mast design in your OZ plans and cross out the numbers on the drawing that match the measures in the first column and replace each one with the number in the second column.

This works for both the masts for both the lug and sprit rigs - just replace the numbers with the corresponding ones in the second column. The third column indicates how much extra weight you are putting up with at each height by choosing a solid mast. eg at the 62mm height you are carrying an extra 48% of weight. This is the downside.

HULL MODS
The mast base can be made the same way as the plan - but make sure it finishes the same width as the original hollow mast at the tip using the same method.

The partner opens up a bit of a question:
1/ is it worth using the standard partner so that a hollow mast can be used later if desired or needed. This can be done by bulk up the sides of the mast by wrapping several layers of glass cloth (you will need around 4 to 6 layers and it only needs to be about 50mm wide (2"). Or you could use some thin bits of timber or some other method, or ...

2/ making the standard partner a couple of millimetres narrower widthways and fore and aft? You can leave the back block in the mast at the designed position but move the forward one back the 2mm needed.

I think I would choose the first option just for the flexibility of use it offers.

It is important not to just put the new narrower mast in the old partner thinking a couple of millimetres won't matter. It might as it is good if there is not too much slack. The risks are more water getting in the front tank - mast moving more when the boat is tacked with more wear and tear on the mast and partner.

If you are a big person and plan to sail the boat hard - with lots of leaning out to keep the boat flat then I would strongly consider adding a couple of extra millimetres to the bottom half of the solid mast.

Correction to OZ PDR lug yard drawing - non critical

2008-06-03T10:11:00.003+10:00

The first lug rig OZ PDR is almost on the water - only a couple of weeks.

However the builder noticed that unless the holes at the ends of the yard are squeezed out to the end then there may not be sufficient space to tighten the sail.

If you haven't shaped the yard yet you can use the drawing on the right - just click on it and print it out.

For those who have built the yard already or bought a shorter piece of timber ...
If you have glass taped the ends of the yard there is no chance of it splitting in use so the holes can go quite close to the ends. If the edge of the hole is 15mm from the end it will be OK. And if the area between the two holes is glassed their edges need only be about 15mm apart. I'd probably advise drilling a pilot hole with a 6mm bit before going through with the final size though - but work out the distance according to the final hole size.

Best wishes
Michael

Now a 2nd Interview on Net of Designer Michael Storer at furledsails.com

2008-05-26T13:02:00.001+10:00

Furled Sails - They call themselves the "World's First Sailing Podcast" based in North America.

Anyway, last week Christy and Noel called me up chatted to me for a couple of hours.

So they have an interview with me on their site followed by a part 2 next week.

This looks like the permanent link
http://www.furledsails.com/article.php3?article=760

They also asked a lot of questions about lug rigs which will be in next week's separate program.
http://www.furledsails.com/article.php3?article=761

I was frightfully nervous - I am much happier typing than I am talking.

Best wishes
MIK

PDRacers in South Africa.

2008-05-24T10:04:00.000+10:00

This is a blog from Roy McBride of CKD boats who make kits for Dudley Dix designs, Optimist Dinghies and others.

He likes the PDR because he feels that most club racing boats are getting out of the reach of normal people.

We can fix that!

(I hope Peter forgives me for the non standard formatting ... but it is a quote - right?)

This is Roy' blog entry about the PDRacers.
____________________________________________________________________________________

Monday, May 5, 2008

PDRacer The new dinghy idea!

This idea came from Michael Storer in Austrailia, try him at http://www.storerboatplans.com/ its a step up from a similar shaped well known design but aimed at keeping prices down and not pushing them up,the class rules are simple,make it yourself ...

... and dont even think about asking a sailmaker to cut and sew your sail,thats banned right at the start,so is spending too much money,even the plans are at rock bottom price.

(actually you can get the sail made by the sailmaker but the rules prevent them from making a sail any better than you can build it at home - Ed.)

The nice thing with this boat is it is very family friendly,even mum and dad can fit in this design.We sell both the plans and the PDRacer kits.

May 12th update:

The plans are U$25 we can email them direct to you,please email me for a quote to the kit and its various options kits@comlumber.com

Posted by Mc Bride at 10:59 AM
____________________________________________________________________________________

I won't be available this weekend.

2008-04-11T14:51:00.000+10:00

Unless you come to the Port Vincent and Stansbury Boat Festival.

I'll have a couple of PDRacers there. Unless the weather looks really bad.

We expect it clear tomorrow - so will be at the festival from around 11.

Best wishes
Michael

Three PDRacer Sailboats Launched in Senegal West Africa

2008-04-02T20:19:00.005+10:00

I was going to put more pictures up here but decided not to.

The story is much too good to make a short version valid. In a way it is nothing special - just a family building three little boats - but I think there IS something special.

The Story is here with all the photos and the main parts of our conversation.

Maybe it is the photos, maybe it is because the location, maybe the yearlong process of gradually getting the boats together.

The three kids Caleb, Laurel, Isiah built the hulls and I am really impressed by the great colour schemes.

Their Dad Jonathan built all the bits - centreboards, rudders, masts, booms and rudderbox.

That's about it for a PDRacer.

Oh - except for the sails which are made out of polytarps - probably the biggest selling point for boats being built in West Africa!!! We use the same materials in Australia and are impressed at how a $40 sail can push an efficient boat in all directions. You can see our Australian sailing videos if you don't believe it works. Our sails are two years old now and still going fine.

The UBeaut forum site is real gem for digging out information about boats and woodworking. UBeaut Woodworking.

Also what we did about the rudder failures on their first sail and the easy fix.

Hope you enjoy the story as much as I did!

Second interview up on FurledSails.com

2008-04-02T12:19:00.001+10:00

The first part was up last week.

This week we talk about traditional vs modern sailtypes - everyone knows I am a fan of trad rigs because of their low cost - but here I go into the influences on the other side.

I love the efficiency of modern rigs so I use all the same methods on the traditional rigs to get brilliant performance.

Also I'll tell you EXACTLY why you should never name a boat in haste.

http://www.furledsails.com/article.php3?article=761

Thanks again to the Furledsails.com crew - Noel and Christy - and you should have a good look at their archive of brilliant interviews.

Can the OZ PDR use a Sunfish Rig - Frostbiting Sunfishers?

2008-03-31T21:43:00.004+10:00

Several people have used Sunfish rigs on PDRacers. But would they work with the OZ's centreboard position.

David Parker chased this one up with me.

He had a Sunfish sail already and needed to see if it would fit on the OZ PDR.

The dimensions of the sail he had were
Luff - 4m
Foot - 4m
Leach - approx 4.28m

It looks like it works according to the picture right.

I would make the mast an extra 50mm longer than the measurement shown for a total length of 3184mm. If using the OZ plans to make a square hollow mast it needs to be the same width as the standard mast at all the same heights. So it is sorta like the standard mast has been cut off.

Remember while the general PDR rules condone the use of second hand sails, the OZ rules do not as we feel it will lead to an eventual arms race of moving from old sails to only slightly second hand ones.

However, you can sail with the general PDR fleet. If you set the boat up for the OZ type square mast you can have the bigger OZ rig and drop it in the same hole.

Yes, in other words this rig is about 10sq feet smaller than the standard OZ. This won't matter too much.

However there is one slight defect - the boom ends up a little bit lower than the standard OZ, but you can't take it up too much higher than shown as it will make the boat harder to hold up because of excessive heeling moment.

Anyway - this means that a whole bunch more people can use, sail or race PDRacers. Some Sunfish sailors might want to sail something a bit dryer during the colder months. Yeah - it won't be quite as fast - but it still goes upwind fine and you'll be able to step ashore with dry feet.

Sunfish sails are also available as kits from Sailrite for around US$180 (May 2008)

PDRacer sailing days in South Australia 6th April and boat festival 11/12/13 April

2008-03-29T16:27:00.011+10:00

Now we haven't had a huge amount of luck with our PDRacer days in South Australia. While I did make a new PDRacer speed record, the conditions were mostly too strong at the Goolwa wooden boat show.

However there are a couple of opportunities to see (and possibly sail) an OZ PDR if you are in South Australia in the next fortnight.

WEST LAKES
Date : 6th APRIL
However Rob Badenoch and I are looking at going to West Lakes on Sunday 6th as a practice run to make sure the PDRacers are all working OK for the Stansbury Wooden Boat Festival the following weekend.

Still finalising time, but similar low key approach to last time. Start around midday, go for a couple of hours, "hang out" and watch the boats and sail a bit.

Oops - I had better check to see there are no rowing comps.

Planning to have two or three PDRs for starters - so all others are welcome too.

But watch here for further information. I'll also put a post up there if the weather is doubtful.
More information as it develops here.

STANSBURY/PORT VINCENT BOAT FESTIVAL
Date: Fri, 11-13 Apr 2008
Most of the small boat activities on Sat and Sun.

It is a great local festival in an area with a great maritime heritage. I'll be over there as part of the Duckflat contingent and then dashing back to Adelaide for the Duckflat Autumn Boatbuilding School.
More information about the festival here

How to have the best looking boat on the bay!

2008-03-17T18:26:00.002+10:00

For many people building the boat is the easy bit, but they really shy away from finishing off with a nice bit of signwriting. Vinyl lettering isn't too expensive, but it's not really in the Puddleduck spirit, and particularly now that computers are commonplace it's pretty easy to get a reasonable job with just a bit of patience.

Have you ever noticed how all the girls flock round the best looking boats, and the best looking boats have all got terrific signage that looks as though it was professionally done, and great sail logos as well?

Then you will obviously be wondering how that can be done for almost no cost using a few basic implements without actually having to own a signwriting store.

Read on, and change your life!

Warning, the skills that you learn hear, will equip you to become a rabid street artist. Please resist the urge to tag every building with the PDR logo. Just do the places that have high visibility!

For more information go to the "signs" menu under the "building" heading on our main menu.

High Praise For Steve!

2008-02-19T17:24:00.007+10:00

From Jim Michaels on the PDRacer Group:

After we get this one knocked out, I'll work on an OZ PDR for myself - take my time and strive to build it in a truly craftsmanlike manner.

Has anyone else seen the new paintjobs on the OZ PDR page?

That red-orange duck with the white interior struck me the same way I felt when I saw my first Schwinn Sting-ray bike as a kid, or '65 ragtop Mustang: The epitomy of class and fun - I want to build that boat.

But now, before my kids turn into teenagers and while they still want me to goof around with them, I think I'll build the boat we can build together most easily and get out on the water. The three of us together have outgrown the Sunfish, and with the quick PDR we can all be on the water at the start of this season, and maybe even catch a messabout at Rend lake.

Jim in St. Louis

Jim is of course talking about Steve Wagstaff's beautifully crafted boat that features in a few of our recent photos! Steve likes it a bit too!