tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-305537072009-11-30T23:33:43.495ZImagine you are at the edge of the sea on a day when it is difficult to say where the land ends and the sea begins and where the sea ends and the sky begins. Sea kayaking lets you explore these and your own boundaries and broadens your horizons. Sea kayaking is the new mountaineering.Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.comBlogger8572625tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-63214287784922386762009-11-04T17:27:00.007Z2009-11-04T22:39:04.068Z

It might have only have been 9:40am (and we might only have had time for first breakfast) but all four of us reported for launching/photographic duties......and soon the kayaks were afloat and waiting to transport us on a tour of Loch Tarbert, Jura. This must be one of the most beautiful but infrequently visited of all the Scottish sea lochs.We left Ruantallain and travelled east along a line of

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-44215062197272303622009-11-03T23:19:00.004Z2009-11-03T23:32:09.994Z

Slowly the sun rose over the ridge formed by the giant raised beach...... and warmed the sands of Ruantallain.Down on the beach there were fewer midges, so we cooked breakfast beside the kayaks.The beaches at the mouth of Loch Tarbert are like those four on Colonsay and Oronsay, which are ranked in the top 20 Scottish Highland and Island beaches. We had now been on five out of the twenty in the

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-11678608246467574932009-11-02T20:00:00.005Z2009-11-03T16:24:05.994Z

Before dawn there was not a breath of wind to disturb Loch Tarbert on Jura. The humidity was very high and condensation was everywhere.The sun had not yet hit the summits of the Paps of Jura and it was still too cold for the midges to make their appearance.Then slowly the Sun's rays shone through the coll between Corra Bheinn (573m) and Beinn Shiantaidh (757m) and warmed its summit slopes. This

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-62922751185169085882009-11-01T08:54:00.006Z2009-11-01T09:47:41.580Z

The midge attack was ferocious as we put the tents up on the shore of Loch Tarbert. Fortunately it was a clear night and the temperature plummeted, sending the little illegitimate insects back to the swamp from which they had come. We lit our fire on the beach but its little pool of light did not extend far into the darkness of the moonless night. The vault of the sky twinkled with so many stars

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-16012877255174941052009-10-31T22:41:00.004Z2009-10-31T22:55:12.817Z

We rounded Rubh an t-Sailean (Ruantallain) into the shelter of Loch Tarbert, just as the sun hit the western horizon. The low red light warmed the stones of a huge raised beach. It rises about 36 metres from the current high water mark. At its summit the stones are as clean as if the tide last went out a few hours ago. However, it is 10,000 years since salt water last lapped these stones.We were

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-42393639328942130542009-10-30T20:27:00.006Z2009-10-30T21:22:12.847Z

Sadly, it was now time to take our leave of Colonsay. We had our last supper on one of her superlative beaches on the SE coast. The day was getting on, it was now about 2hrs 30minutes to sunset. We had paddled only 21km, since setting off in the morning, and still had a 15km crossing to our destination, at the mouth of West Loch Tarbert on Jura. It looked like we would be setting up camp in the

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-91214300847895323332009-10-29T20:41:00.004Z2009-10-29T23:25:25.153Z

The beaches of SE Colonsay, like this one at Rubha Dubh, are simply stunning.This is Traigh an Eacaill (Cable Bay).We then found Port a' Chapuill......and decided we had to explore some of its many coves.I went for a swim at this one but the water was not exactly warm.In 1977, Scottish Natural Heritage commissioned a survey of the beaches in the Scottish Highlands and Islands. The whole area is

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-80029993717570848462009-10-28T22:14:00.003Z2009-10-28T22:58:39.637Z

The day was by now pressing on so we reluctantly left the shelter of Scalasaig's little Port na Feamainn (seaweed harbour). We rounded the low headland of Rubha Dubh with its automatic lighthouse. It flashes every 10 seconds showing a white light to the east and a red light to the north.We now entered Loch Staosnaig and paddled round Eilean Staosnaig at its head. Gentle hills rolled down to a

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-82202012275110745432009-10-27T16:25:00.003Z2009-10-27T21:41:10.958Z

A fine old wooden, clinker built, fishing boat lies well above the HW mark in Scalasaig harbour. She is the Eythorne I like old wooden boats. At least Eythorne still has her name and an old tarpaulin keeping the rain out. I do hope her hull lifts to the Atlantic swells once again.

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-53243689772792756932009-10-26T22:13:00.005Z2009-10-26T22:50:58.584Z

We arrived at Scalasaig with every intention of making a cultural visit, inspecting ancient crosses and buildings. However, we are easily diverted and our boots had barely dried before we came across this sign for May MacKinnon's Pantry! Not only that this Pantry was licenced!May and her assistant wondered if we had come from one of the (large) yachts which had dropped anchor of the pier."

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-31669442973827109442009-10-25T18:19:00.006Z2009-10-25T19:08:11.644Z

At the Scottish Canoe show in Perth, I saw a very interesting kayak on the Kari-Tek stand. It was a shiny Rockpool Alaw Bach, though it lacked the glitter finish. Closer inspection showed that it was made out of a moulded material called Carbonite 2000 that is used in the aircraft industry. This is a thermoformed trilaminate of ABS plastic and acrylic. It gives a stiff, light hull with a high

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-59995832783259531992009-10-25T10:35:00.008Z2009-10-25T12:39:42.347Z

We continued SE along Colonsay's coast line after leaving the abandoned fishing village of Riasg Buidhe. We came upon the planned township of Glassard (Glas Aird) to which, the former residents of Riasg Buidhe moved. Each new croft house had its own hay meadow and the men folk were able to use bigger fishing boats which were kept in nearby Scalasaig harbour.A recent survey showed that Colonsay

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-2342491244564111272009-10-24T22:02:00.007+01:002009-10-25T10:43:41.724Z

From the beach we made our way up the hillside to the abandoned village of Riasg Buidhe on Colonsay.The street which had once been flagged with paving stones was now covered with grass. empty windows and doors looked out over the sea to Jura. The roofs of the houses were long gone. Only the first two houses had gables with stone chimneys.A little apart from the other houses, this cottage still

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-60561793962691064312009-10-22T19:35:00.008+01:002009-10-25T10:42:18.060Z

We spied a ruined village at Riasg Buidhe on the NE coast of Colonsay.It looked an interesting spot to explore, so we landed at a little gravel beach at the end of......a narrow channel, which in places had been hewn from the rocks to create a little harbour.The rocks rose steeply from the shore......and there was only room for a tiny building which looked like it had been a store.The only sign

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-27084805329921045932009-10-21T22:29:00.005+01:002009-10-21T22:48:44.561+01:00

Our little Armada of kayaks made its way down the NE coast of Colonsay in the most glorious of conditions.In the distance, the hills of Islay floated above a limpid sea.As the kilometers slipped gently by, we passed Eilean Olmsa. It was quite difficult deciding which side to pass it on.A large yacht resorted to its engine after drifting in the tide, its limp sails had produced no propulsion.We

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-31478826201025811112009-10-20T19:18:00.004+01:002009-10-20T19:38:58.126+01:00

We spent some time exploring......the magnificent strand of Balnahard beach on Colonsay.Below the high water mark we found the remains of a wooden steamship, the SS Wasa. In 1919 she caught fire and was being towed to safety when she stranded here and was lost.In this view you can see Scarba on the left, the Gulf of Corryvreckan and Jura to the right. We would have liked to have stayed all day

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-77784580738789406262009-10-19T23:03:00.003+01:002009-10-19T23:06:12.047+01:00

Balnahard beach at the north end of Colonsay......is quite simply......stunning!

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-60641604852604307492009-10-18T20:41:00.004+01:002009-10-18T21:15:53.645+01:00

The swell on the north west coast of Colonsay was about two metres and it pushed us steadily towards the north of the island. On the horizon, from the left we could see Mull, the entrance to Loch Linnhe, the Garvellachs, the rounded mass of Scarba then the north end of Jura. We felt very small and exposed out here.We kept well out as many reefs extend out from the coast. Spray from the surf hung

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-85030412635343365482009-10-17T23:15:00.003+01:002009-10-17T23:29:42.186+01:00

I have not been out for a while, since I dislocated my knee on Gunna. Four months of inactivity have left me pretty unfit. Phil, who has been paddling for less than a year, hadn't done any tidal paddling at all. So given it was a spring tide we thought it would do both of us some good to sample the tide races on the west coast. We set off from Crinan at the top end of the Sound of Jura.We nipped

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-53092826232826643812009-10-16T23:48:00.007+01:002009-10-16T23:58:24.584+01:00

Fortunately our beach was protected by some offshore reefs...... and so was protected from the shore break that was hitting nearby Kiloran Bay. We launched without much fuss......so why is David looking so concerned?Well, we had to break through a narrow gap in the reef and every so often a little wave would make a wee splash.

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-45513945471624371702009-10-15T22:51:00.004+01:002009-10-17T00:00:21.244+01:00

During the night, I heard the surf getting up. It sounded so close, I got up to check the kayaks but they were well above the tide line. Phil didn't hear any surf as he was deafened by David's snoring. Come to that, maybe it wasn't surf that I had heard either.The great sweep of Kiloran Bay stretched away.....as we strolled along the edge of the sea looking for shells.By the time we had made our

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-76243422591864548882009-10-14T19:50:00.008+01:002009-10-14T21:52:27.299+01:00

The twilight stole round us...as we gathered driftwood from the shore.We soon had a fire going and it radiated a pool of warmth and light in which we stood. We greeted the gathering night with fine malt whisky. Then on the distant horizon (above the fire), a steady double flash announced the location of the Dubh Artach lighthouse.It is situated on a lonely rock, some 29km WNW of Colonsay. It was

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-33361009632068814222009-10-13T19:28:00.004+01:002009-10-13T19:34:37.246+01:00

After dinner we just had time...to walk over to Kiloran Bay on Colonsay's west coast...... to catch the end of the day.

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-63198235445639630272009-10-12T22:23:00.006+01:002009-10-12T22:53:27.946+01:00

We carried our camping gear up to the machair in Ikea Fracta bags.There was a lovely golden light......as we put the tents up.David and I soon had dinner heating up our the Primus Eta Power stoves but Phil's meths Trangia was not producing much heat.He left it in disgust and went off to phone for a carry out Curry. He was most distressed to learn that the Royal India do deliver to Colonsay Drive,

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-30553707.post-26789190689701623942009-10-11T17:00:00.000+01:002009-10-11T17:00:02.271+01:00

Just as we were thinking we might be in for another night time epic, the broad sweep of golden sand at the head of Kiloran Bay hove into sight.In the distance, the peaks of Jura could be seen above the low isthmus, which nearly bisects northern Colonsay.We found a cove near the main bay to make our landfall.The sands of Kiloran Bay stretched away for over a kilometer. There was not a soul in

Douglas Wilcoxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12113557051872905710noreply@blogger.com0