How to add banding to a table apron

tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3036933.post-31646187776277256892008-02-26T10:52:00.001-08:002008-03-03T16:38:16.870-08:00How to add banding to a table apron<div style="float: right; margin-left: 5px; margin-bottom: 5px;"> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mark_juliana/2231924256/" title="photo sharing"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2371/2231924256_486e0820a0_m.jpg" alt="" style="border: solid 1px #000000; padding:1px;" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/mark_juliana/2231924256/">Skew block plane and marking gauge</a> Originally uploaded by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/people/mark_juliana/">Mark Juliana</a>. </div>I thought I would post a brief description of the method I used to add the banding to the bottom of the demilune table. What I didn't do: I was considering using the router and making a curved jig to fit the table curve, but the thought of that much power at 10-14k RPM made me a bit nervous--any little glitch would quickly remove wood that I'd rather have still attached to the table apron. Another approach I considered was using the shaper--but that would have required too much time making a jig--since I wasn't planning on making a dozen of these tables, I didn't want to invest the time making a single use jig. So I settled on a handtool approach that worked wonderfully. Using a Tite-Mark marking gauge, I scored a line around the bottom of the apron that matched the width of the banding I was going to use. I then set the fence on a Lie Nielsen skew block plane to cut to that line and after that it was a trouble/stress free process of planing down to the depth I wanted. It was actually kind of meditative and I was never worried about things going wrong. If you are ever searching for a method of adding banding to a project, I would highly recommend you give this one a try. Marknoreply@blogger.com