Scott Santoro

Niagara Falls

2009-06-22T03:02:00.015+01:00

I always wanted to see Niagara Falls, and today, I finally did it. The Maid of the Mist excursion tour is even better than I expected. I booked a day bus tour which at least gave me a taste of the place.

Passing Maids in the Mist.

A view of Niagara-on-the-Lake, a quaint town with strict restoration guidelines for its buildings. The result is a mostly intact turn of the century downtown.

Mies van der Rohe in Toronto

2009-06-14T23:52:00.013+01:00

One of the unexpected pleasures of living in Toronto this year is to be able to enjoy each and every day this epic scale International Style plaza, The Toronto-Dominion Centre. The original structure was opened in 1967, and to my surprise additional towers have been added over the years in the original style (most recently in 1991) with the exception of a small tower on Wellington built in 1986, a shortsighted addition if there ever was one. The cows are by Joe Fafard. A great deal of information can be found here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toronto-Dominion_Centre
The spaces are so monumental it's difficult to get far enough back to photograph the spaces.

The final tower (presumably) was actually constructed over and around the Toronto Stock Exchange, leaving the Art Deco structure intact. This is the only example I've seen of this sort of accomodation in Toronto, though in subsequent posts I'll include photos of new buildings that retain older facades, often several stories. Often one does not even notice until one happens to look up.
A detail of the Stock Exchange Art Deco frieze.
Underneath the plaza is a large shopping mall, which for the most part has not been 'updated' except, as reported in the Wikipedia article, to accomodate the pleas of the businesses in the 1990s. Van der Rohe had insisted there were to be no individual logos -- all signages used the same lettering.
Note van der Rohe's Barcelona benches. Now that's class.

Casa Loma

2009-05-03T16:06:00.010+01:00

Casa Loma sits on the crest of what passes for a hill in Toronto. Toronto is so flat, if you stand on a step ladder, you'll get a view. It was built by industrialist Sir Henry Pellatt in 1914. The Pellatts aspired to live in a castle, so they built one at great cost, and just like the Vanderbilts' far grander Biltmore Estate, even they couldn't to live there for very long. As a starred Toronto attraction, it missed the mark for me. Unlike the grand estates in Newport, Rhode Island, there's an unfinished feel to the restoration. The dining hall and conservatory are vast, empty rooms. I was also surprised at the lack of staff attendance. One is left to wander unmonitored, unlike the grand houses of Europe, which might explain the graffiti in the empty attic towers.

Across the street is the stables. I liked this exterior much more than the house itself. Inside, however, there wasn't much there. The garages had tables and chairs, presumably left over from some event. The horse stalls themselves were tiled, exactly like those at Buckingham Palace, which I suspect was not an accident. There were pictures of the Pellatt's automobiles, but it would be nice if they were able to acquire one like theirs just to have something to look at, especially after making a surprisingly long trek through a wet tunnel to and from the house. There were several puddles without so much as a 'caution' sign. Whomever is managing Caaa Loma needs more money and staff.

The neighborhood on the 'hill' is quite attractive, featuring houses like this one, directly across the street.

Toronto Island

2009-04-18T23:36:00.008+01:00

On an overcast Saturday, I took a short ferry ride to Toronto Island, a sandbar just offshore. Supposedly there are no cars permitted on the island (though I saw a truck). I passed a little village of quaint frame houses along the shore at one end with no roads, just wide sidewalks. There are several beaches. The entrance to one had this curious, Edward Gorey-like entrance constructed from willow branches. There's also a small amusement park and petting zoo which do not open until May.

A view of Toronto from the island.
Built in the early 19th century, this lighthouse is no longer on the shore due to the change of the coastline prior to the seawall construction. It sits serenely in a tranquil grove of mature trees.

CN Tower

2009-02-18T00:34:00.014Z

Completed in 1975, the tallest structure in North America (and until recently, the world) is a communications and observation tower. I've always wanted to live in the Jetsons' Skypad Apartments. The elevators are extremely fast and in the center have a glass floor, so it's the next best thing to the Jetson's pneumatic tubes. I ask you, though, where are the bubble topped flying cars we've been promised? Unlike the Space Needle, there are actually two observation levels -- about three hundred feet above the main observation deck is the smaller Sky Pod.

It's a bit hard to conceive of the fact that those aren't, in fact, scale models of twenty and thirty story buildings.

If you've ever wondered whether or not you're truly afraid of heights, try walking on the glass floor. I have to admit, my legs felt rather rubbery.

Toronto in January

2009-01-28T01:43:00.012Z

I arrived in Toronto on Saturday. On a cold Sunday, we wandered around the downtown core. Despite it being stunningly cold (something I'm not used to), I was still able to admire the collision of Toronto's impressive mix of new and old architecture.

Immediately one of my favorite buildings, the Gooderham Building was built in 1892. It's commonly called the Flatiron Building.
The Flatiron abuts Front Street, where one can find several charming old buildings like these.
Toronto's local department store is The Bay, the main brand of Hudson's Bay Company.
One of the attractive entraces to The Bay. The second level leads to the large, modern Eaton Centre shopping mall.
The Eaton Center was named for what was once Canada's largest department store.

Saying good-bye to London

2009-01-28T00:18:00.013Z

Time grew quickly short as I prepared to leave London last week. I had all sorts of grand plans to make one last browse through the British Museum, but suddenly, after a year and a half, my time was up, But on my final Sunday, I made one last trip to the centre. Above, Kingfisher House, my apartment building at Battersea Reach, certainly one of the nicest places I've ever lived.I always liked Liberty's Department Store. Some of it was constructed from old ship timbers.
Looking south on Regent Street. Just beyond the bend lies Picadilly Circus.
On the spur of the moment, I took the tube to Knightsbridge. Harrod's, when it's not jammed with tourists, is a marvel to behold. The Egyptian Hall is certainly like nothing in any other department store.
The Egyptian staircase.
Harrod's Food Court is sumptuous beyond words, and must be experienced. Bring lots of money, and take the time to savor it all, at least with your eyes.
There are several halls, each specializing in different fare. My favorite by far is the confectionary hall.

After selling my house in Los Angeles in 2006 (which I'll go into someday), I've been a rudderless ship. For at least two more months, that will continue as the fates now take me to Toronto.

Apollo Victoria

2009-01-18T08:29:00.010Z

Last night I finally got around to seeing Wicked at the Victoria Apollo. The once 'super cinema' across the street from Victoria Station is probably the finest example of Art Deco theatre design in Britain. No, the green neon wasn't installed for the production, it was Emerald City destiny. The production itself is spectacular. I wondered how the lead witches would stack up to the original Broadway stars, and was not disappointed. Kerry Ellis (Elphaba) has a powerful voice and Dianne Pilkington (Glinda) is sorority-girl perfection. Oddly, in real life, Kerry is blonde (and not green-skinned) and Dianne is dark-haired. Thanks to the magic of wigs, they pull off the transformation.

The flamboyant, underwater-themed interior is described in the theatre program as 'a mermaid's dream.'

Thunderbirds Are Go at the Royal Festival Hall

2008-11-09T09:39:00.014Z

I loved the Gerry Anderson TV shows when I was a kid (especially Fireball XL-5), so when I saw there was a SuperMarionation concert at the Royal Festival Hall, I didn't hestitate to book a ticket. I knew it would be lively and fun, and it was. Anyone who's familiar with the music knows what I mean -- those puppets could dance. It was the centenary of the birth of Anderson's composer Barry Gray, as good an excuse as any. I was surprised at the length of the concert -- all the major shows and films were highlighted, performed by the very large Philharmonia Orchestra plus vocal group Voces8, who did a particularly fine job with a rather complex Bach-like fugue, and Pascale Rousee-Lacordaire, playing the ondes Martenot (an electronic instrument similar to a Theramin). Hosting was Brian Blessed, energetic and jolly, with special guest Gerry Anderson himself (who got the singularly British 'three cheers -- hip hip hooray' from the audience, the first I'd ever heard outside of a movie). Above, the spaceship from Journey to the Far Side of the Sun arrives. The Royal Festival Hall was opened in 1951 and has a handsome, pleasant and vast auditorium. The fireworks in the background are the from the annual Lord Mayor Show.

Composer Barry Gray (1908-1984)
A short stroll west along the Southbank from the Festival Hall is the London Eye and this stunning view across the Thames.

The Lost Archives

2008-11-08T13:11:00.016Z

Recently my brother Todd found three rolls of undeveloped Brownie film in our mother's desk and sent them off to a specialty developer. I did what I could to fix the flaws, spots and clearing in PhotoShop. The dates range from 1963 through 1966 at our house at 7910 Conifer Drive in Pleasure Ridge Park, Kentucky. Above, Halloween 1964, wearing a Collegeville 'beatnik' costume bought at G.C. Murphy's at Dixie Manor. The trick or treat bag is clearly a reuse from the previous year. It rained.
My brother Todd and I in front of our 1957 Rambler. We were so dressed up it might have been Easter, or perhaps we were on the way to one of my dreaded accordion concerts.
Yes, I played the accordion.
A snow day was almost as joyful as Christmas vacation.
The strange shape in the foreground is our standard poodle, Chloe. The trees in the background are now massive, but the houses look pretty much the same.
Brother Kurt came along in 1965.
Todd and gentle Chloe.
Todd in the foreground, me in the background in apparent euphoria.

Westfield London Mall

2008-11-01T21:21:00.021Z

The new London is wealthy, very wealthy, and its first big centrally located mall makes the big old malls in Los Angeles look like run down K-Marts. I gaped at the daring organic forms, the soaring spaces, the impossibly large glass curvilinear corridors. I was impressed by the upscale food courts (no Hot Dog on a Stick here, I'll have you know), and highly entertained by the live music (overamplified classical and an excellent R & B choral group) and a brief but lively fashion show. I had only come to check out the architecture and really wasn't in the mood to buy anything. Nevertheless I found myself being drawn into shops. Well, just to have a look, you know the feeling, so long as I was there. I don't know if it's because the place just opened yesterday, but the clerks were actually attentive. You can die waiting for someone to help you on Oxford Street, even in the most expensive shops. So right there is a feather in Westfield London's cap. I found a shirt in Boss I quite liked, but decided 110 pounds was a little out of bounds. Despite the gains the dollar has made lately, $170 was still more than I was willing to pay for a really rather ordinary knit shirt. In the end, the crowds started to get to me, so I headed for the exit before I convinced myself $170 wasn't really so bad after all. Outdoors it was cold, wet and dark, and it suddenly occured to me why malls became so popular in America. Umbrellas were being turned inside out, traffic was snarled for miles and the tube stop was jammed. Oh yes, I'll definitely go back.

Above, one of the many touch screen store finders.
A runaway dog from Whoville in the Next Department Store. Who says shopping is not for real men? That's a living model in the window of a lingerie store.

No, this was the Maverick

2008-10-05T13:50:00.019+01:00

Every time I hear John McCain and now Sarah Palin declare themselves mavericks, I have to laugh, because all I can think of is this, the Ford Maverick, a rather cheap but phenomenonally popular car in its day (1969-1977). They were everywhere when I was in high school and college. Every dorm parking lot had dozens of them. Many hundreds of thousands were produced, but they're extremely rare today. That might tell you something about the workmanship. Or maybe they were so cheap ($1,995 list!) they might have seemed disposable, like the relatively new no deposit, no return soft drink bottles (how was that for a bad idea?). Buy one, run it into the ground, then throw it away and get something new. Of course the Maverick wasn't the only cheap piece of junk being made at the time. The Pinto, which tended to explode when rear ended, was its smaller nephew, Chevy had the Vega, prone to a melting aluminum block (when was the last time you saw one of those on the road?) and Chrysler had the highly lamentable Plymouth Volare and Dodge Aspen. Rex Harrison shilled for the Aspen as Henry Higgins singing "It's unbelievable!" That was certainly true, at least in regards to how quickly they rusted. And what of American Motors, which had been producing reliable, economical compacts long before the Big Three? They offered the startlingly hideous Gremlin and the weird Pacer.
Speaking of old paint, get a load of these what-were-they-smoking color choices: Anti-Establishment Mint, Hula Blue, Original Cinnamon, Freudian Gilt, Thanks Vermillion, Black Jade, Champagne Gold, Gulfstream Aqua, Meadowlark Yellow, Brittany Blue, Lime Gold, Dresden Blue, Raven Black, Wimbledon White, and Candyapple Red. And Ford had trouble coming up with names for the Edsel? What the hell color is Freudian Gilt? And all those hippies in a market for a new car (and not a third hand VW bus) would have surely selected anti-establishment mint. (I think we can assume that would not have been maverick McCain's color choice.)

Santorini, Part 3 The Volcano and Thirasia

2008-10-05T12:41:00.014+01:00

The volcano, called the island of Neo Kameni, is in the center of the giant caldera and takes about a half hour by boat. The island is uninhabited and almost completely without vegetation. Here and there I saw a struggling weed.

A view from the top of the volcano, looking south towards the smaller island of Palaia Kameni and the tiny Aspro Nisi. If you look closely you can see the in the center a small gathering of boats. This is where we'd go next -- a hot springs (see below). The volcano is growing a little every year in several thousand years will fill in the caldera, making Santorini a round island once more.

After a few hours in the heat, we went to a hot springs along the shore. About half the passengers elected to jump off and swim to it. I was tempted but passed. Apparently it's not terribly deep, but it's required that you be a strong swimmer, which I'm not. Someone panicked and had to be thrown a life preserver.
We then went on to the little island on the west side of the caldera, Thirasia. One could elect to lunch at the several simple cafes along the shore, swim or sunbathe on the pebbly beach,
walk up the stairs to the town at the top of the cliff or if you'd prefer,
ride a donkey up instead.
A few days later I went back to Athens for one day, the low point of the trip. The hotel Royal Olympic desk clerk seemed to think providing hot water was an optional service to their guests. London was as I had left it, cool, breezy and showery, but after nine broiling days, I had a newfound appreciation for it. As the days get shorter and colder, however, I'll soon change my mind.

Santorini, Greece Part 2 Vlychada cliffs

2008-09-30T21:40:00.011+01:00

I wondered, had Gaudi visited Santorini? It looks like he had a hand in designing these remarkable pumice cliffs. The beach itself is coarse, black, volcanic sand.

A natural doorway, right at beach level.

Santorini, Greece Part 1

2008-09-09T21:03:00.014+01:00

A hydrofoil ferry only took two hours to get to Santorini from Mykonos. Santorini (which is its Italian name under Venetian rule in the 13th century -- Thira is its true Greek name) is a giant caldera. Once a round island, it was blown apart by a volcanic eruption 3,600 years ago during the height of the Minoan civilization. There is a volcano in the center of the large, spectacular lagoon.
Approaching the port, villages hug the cliffsides high above the lagoon.

As we got closer to the shore, I noticed a switchback road. I couldn't quite believe they actually created a road on a cliff that steep.
Ah, but they did. The traffic zips up and down these cliffs all day and night.
Santorini is famous for its sunsets, and every evening crowds stop to admire the light, the reflections, and the colors.

Fira, the largest town on the island, has a large assortment of shops,restaurants and hotels. Many have terraces, even small pools cantilevered over the cliffside. The views they offer are surreal, especially magical in the evening hours.

Island of Delos, Greece

2008-09-09T19:23:00.011+01:00

Just off the coast of Mykonos is the tiny island of Delos, one of the most important archeological sites in Greece. It is a vast ruined city, with boulevards lined with temples, luxurious homes and agoras. Approaching the shore, one can clearly imagine the scope and scale of the place that was said to be the birthplace of Apollo, and therefore a major cult center. It was very hot that day.

Delos is probably most famous for its stone lions (600 BC) (these are copies -- some of the originals are in the on-site museum.

The Delos Museum is small but has some beautiful relics like these.

It takes hours to roam the city. I walked down from the top of this theatre.
The Temple of Isis was built during the Roman period to venerate the Egyptian goddess.
On either side of the platform of Stoibadeion, dedicated to Dionysus, are two large phallus sculptures (300 BC). The relief scene celebrates a theatrical performance.

Mykonos, Greece

2008-09-04T20:32:00.013+01:00

On my third day in Athens, I boarded a large ferry to Mykonos. I've never been on a cruise, so this was as close as I've gotten. It was a six hour trip and stopped at a few other islands along the way. The ferries are modern and quite civilized, with large reserved sections (where people without rservations will try to steal your seat if you leave it unattended), large screen TVs, snack bars and outdoor deck seating.

The Mykonos shoreline.
The ferry landed at Mykonos Town's port, which is famous for its nighttime partying but also has some rather charming steep stair streets like these.

My hotel was at the very quiet Elia Beach. I was intrigued by the numerous tiny chapels dotting the island.
The view from my hotel room of Elia Beach.
Around 4 AM, moonlight woke me up so I went out on the deck and took this picture.

Wrapping up in the day in the Platka, Athens

2008-08-31T16:23:00.013+01:00

The Platka, in central Athens, has a lot of tourist shops and sidewalk cafes. As it was about 100F that day, I was quickly running out of steam. But I snapped away as I went. Above, the Monument of Lysikrates, the only intact choregic monument, which were built to commemorate choral and dramatic festivals. This one is from 334 BC.
A quiet Platka side street.
At the Vouli parliament building is the tomb of the unknown soldier, where one can catch the changing of the guard, which I did with the morning tour group.
Across from the Tower of the Winds, described under the previous post, is this much more modern ruin.
Facing the nearby Hadrian's Arch is this bust of the actress and politician Melina Mercouri, famous for Never on Sunday and as Minister of Culture, rallying the cry for the return of the Elgin Marbles to Athens, both of which she is fondly and proudly remembered for in Greece. I remember seeing the film Topkapi with my parents in its initial 1964 release and finding her very charismatic. She also played Broadway, in the musical version of Never on Sunday, retitled Illya, Darling. You can see a few numbers from the show performed on the Ed Sullivan Show by going to the site www.bluegobo.com
Finally, I refreshed myself at a sidewalk cafe and was grateful to be in out of the sun for a while. I did not see one cloud, not one, for the entire nine days I was in Greece.
After melting into a shower at the hotel and changing my clothes, I went back out to the Platka and hoped to find one of the famous garden cinemas in the city. I thought I found one of them on my map, but gave up when it seemed to be too far. Then, suddenly, in the middle of the Platka, I stumbled upon the Paris. It was playing Mamma Mia, something I was not too keen on seeing, but I figured if I didn't see it here in Greece, where it was filmed (on one of the islands), where would I? So I bought a ticket and climbed the stairs to the roof. It instantly brought back memories of my childhood when my family would go to the drive-in (in fact, we saw Topkapi at the Valley Auto Theatre in Valley Station, Kentucky). The cicadas were chirping in the trees and there was a heavenly breeze and to the left was the floodlit Acropolis. There was no rake, so I had to move once so I could see something besides the person's head in front of me, and all sat on folding chairs. Everything at the Paris is in original language with subtitles. I didn't even mind the movie so much. It wasn't quite as bad as most of the reviews led me to believe.
I managed to get this timed exposure during the end titles which gives you a vague idea of what the cinema looks like. All around this outdoor cinema are hotels and apartments and the features run (like drive-ins) into the wee hours. I can't quite imagine what that's like! Free movies but no sleep, I guess.

Ancient Agora, Athens

2008-08-26T20:22:00.013+01:00

At the north side of the Acropolis is the ancient Agora. This was the center of social and commercial life in 400 BC. Excavation began in the 1930s. The temple Hephaisteion is remarkably well preserved. In fact, over the interior portion of the temple, the walls and roof are still intact.

The Tower of the Winds is part of the Roman Agora from the second century BC. Its purpose was a weather vane, represented by personifications of the eight winds, and a water clock. The building is 40 feet high and 26 feet in diameeter. All that remains of the water clock are a complex system of pipes.
Each side of the tower is a relief representing different winds and the promises of different conditions it brings. Above, Skiron, representing the Northwest wind, scatters ashes from an urn and Zephyros, representing the West wind, scatters flowers.
Above, Hadrian's Library, AD 132
The Stoa of Attalos was rebuilt in the 1950s using the original foundations and ancient materials, made possible by a donation from John D. Rockefeller, Jr. It's very helpful to imagine what these buildings looked like in their prime, over two thousand years ago.
One of the busts on display in the open portico of the stoa.

Views from the Acropolis

2008-08-24T21:52:00.012+01:00

The day I visited the Acropolis, it was hot and windy, but the air was clear, affording views across the city to the sea.This gives you an idea of the sheer drop off at the northeast corner of the Acropolis. Looking east towards the Lykavittos Hill, the highest point in Athens.
Southwest is the Filopappos Hill. To the Ancient Greeks it was the Hill of Muses. The structure at the top is the remaining fragment of the Monument of Philopappus (AD 114-116). Also here is where Morosini fired his cannon at the Parthenon in 1687.The new Acropolis Museum was unfortunately not yet open during my visit.The ruins of Theatre of Dionysos is actually in part a Roman structure which could seat 17,000. It was built on the site of previous theatres where the original plays by Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripedes and Aristophanes were first held.
Nearby is the smaller but better preserved Theatre of Herodes Atticus, built by the Romans as well between 161 and 174 AD, originally roofed in cedar, and has a seating capacity of 5,000. It is still in use today.
The front of the Theatre of Herodes Atticus.
To the Northwest is the next stop, the ancient agora, including the well-preserved temple Hephaisteion.

The Erechtheion

2008-08-24T13:49:00.011+01:00

Also on the Acropolis, built after the Parthenon between 421 and 406 BC, the Erechtheion stands at the sacred site of where Poseidon left his triden marks in a rock and Athena's tree sprouted. This is the front of the monument.
It is most famous for its elegant Porch of the Caryatids. These columns in the shape of maidens are copies; the originals are indoors at the new Acropolis Museum.

Here is a detail of the ceiling of the Erechtheion.

The Parthenon

2008-08-24T07:43:00.011+01:00

Of course the Parthenon is so iconic there's not much I could say here that's not been said a million times elsewhere, but briefly: It took just nine years to complete (which is pretty good timing even by today's standards), finished in 438 BC. It was in pretty good shape until 1647, when Venetian general Morosini decided to aim a cannon at it and blow it up. It helped that the Turks had stored gunpowder in it. Great going, guys. As one reaches the top of the Acropolis, one enters the Propylaia, the formal gates, finished in 437 BC.

In recent years, additional portions of the building have been identified among the scattered ruins, allowing for some important and exciting restoration.

Athens: Temple of the Olympian Zeus

2008-08-23T17:53:00.009+01:00

Athens in August is like an oven, but the good news is that most of the residents leave town, so the traffic is light and one has the pick of tables at restaurants.
Right in the center of Athens is this enormous ruin, the largest temple built in Ancient Greece -- even larger than the Parthenon.

Work began in the 6th century BC and was finally completed 650 years later by the Roman Emperor Hadrian. My hotel was directly across the street, so this became the first stop on my Athens tour.

Only 15 of the original 104 Corinthian columns remain, each 56 feet high.

A view of the site from atop the Acropolis, which I toured in the afternoon and follows this post.

At one end of the site is Hardian's Arch, 131 AD, which marked the boundary between the ancient city of Athens and the new city of Hadrian.

Double Rainbow

2008-08-10T20:42:00.007+01:00

After raining most of the afternoon, the skies parted, the sun came out and I knew there would be a rainbow...and there was. I've seen more rainbows here in London in a year than I have in the past thirty years in Los Angeles. This is the second double rainbow I've seen in the past month.

Fading away, as all rainbows must.

St Pancras station and a Chagall

2008-08-10T13:43:00.007+01:00

Yesterday was gloomy with intermittent showers. I decided to go see Elaine Stritch's one woman show At Liberty at the Shaw Theatre on Euston Street (which was superb). After buying the ticket, I wandered next door to the massive St. Pancras station and the adjacent, former Midland Grand Hotel. The hotel quickly became out of date because of too few bathrooms. At that time the wealthy traveled with their servants and bathtubs were brought to the rooms. When that suddenly ceased to be the fashion, for decades the building lay dormant. Now it's being restored to a hotel and very expensive apartments.

One of the hotel towers.

St. Pancras' clock tower.

St Pancras has been recently rebuilt and restored as this London's international terminal, where one boards to take the bullet train to Paris. While you wait, you can dine at the long oyster bar overlooking the arriving and departing trains.

On the floor below this concourse is a new shopping mall.

Thi enormous new sculpture, The Meeting Place, is by sculptor Paul Day.

While walking along Bond Street, I passed a gallery with this beautiful Chagall in a gallery window. Even for London, this was an arresting sight.