Adventure Motors Costa Rica

Central American and North American Roadtrip in a Lark!

2008-12-17T09:17:00.017-06:00

Lark, happily going along Route 66: USA, North America,

Lark: Outfitted with a GPS (Garmin Nuvii) and a Dashboard Alter for Good Vibes

Classic Painted Ox-Cart, Costa Rica, Central America: Country of Departure

Lark: Back Country Roads of Costa Rica, Departure Day

Well, our trip through Central America, Mexico, California, across the US along Route 66 to the East Coast, including a big adventure up into Niagara Falls was a complete success. That’s not to say we were never challenged. In fact, when people ask me about how it went, I find myself saying: “It was an adventure”.

Recounting the “adventure” does not seem like a good use of virtual space, bandwidth or my time and energy. However, I will describe the general voyage and a few items that punctuated the trip.

The Lark was not without problems. I had replaced the fuel pump and filter due to failure While bringing her out of mothballs earlier in the year. However, the “new” pump started failing. I could get her running by beating the fuel tank with a rock. We went 1500 KM this way, beating the pump to life when it would quit and leave us stranded. Eventually in central Mexico the rock trick stopped working and we were towed back 120KM to the city of Pubelo, Mexico. I sought a hotel down the street from the Chevrolet agency and installed an OEM replacement pump for the 1990 Chevy Blazer drive train that motor the Lark. The hotel was really great about my wrenching in their parking lot.

Leon, Nicaragua:
Second Country and first border crossing and repair to the Lark's Shocks

Heidi in front of La Perla, a nice hotel in downtown Leon, Nicaragua, Central America

The rear shocks on the Lark never were very pleasing. I had installed them during the original conversion using “TLAR” engineering. For those of you who are not engineers, TLAR stands for “That Looks About Right”.

I had put the shock mounting points in too vertical of a position and ended up having to compromise on the selection of shocks. As a result, the shocks suffered from bottoming out easily when my conversion was complete. This shortcoming reared its ugly head early in our trip. The severe bottoming tore apart the frame at the upper right rear shock over and over. We made temporary repairs in Nicaragua and again in Honduras. Finally in Antigua Guatemala we took a day to repair the frame correctly. I had the shocks removed for the duration of our transit to San Diego where I installed air shocks that solved the issue.

Honduras and Nicaragua had some awful roads and the repair in Nicaragua had to be re-done in Honduras. Honduras: Second Border Crossing and Repair!

Guatemala Market: Fourth Border Crossing (El Salvador was third) and Third Repair to the body/shocks issue

Volcanos in Guatemala

Mexican Mechanics in San Cristobel, Chiapas: Mexico, North America
4th Repair due to Negligence at the Gas Station: 5th Country and Border Crossing

We lost a day leaving Pubela when a helpful gas station attendant put a quart of motor oil into the automatic transmission. We pushed the car across the street to a mechanic shop where 5 young men worked like a soccer team to drop the pan and clean out the offending oil. I had their work redone in San Diego, as the pan gasket leaked all the way.

I changed spark plugs and plug wires somewhere in Central Mexico, during a torrential downpour that caused misfires and stalling due to the deteriorated ignition system.

Plotting the route with Heidi's cousin, Scott-
who joined us in Antigua and stayed with us through Puebla

Admirers of the Lark in Mexico (and throughout the trip) were plentiful!

Above: Photos of Tlaxcala and San Cristobel, Chiapas, Mexico

Driving through Central America necessitates preparation for the chaos and confusion of border crossings. The border crossings are not well marked, and require standing in at least 3 (sometimes 5) lines to obtain your personal and vehicle documents for passage.

Heidi studied the process and document needs of each of the borders. She created a folder of packets for each border filled with original and copies of necessary documents. While we did well crossing the borders, there were still the confusing aspects of lack of knowledge, foreign language, deteriorated infrastructure and make-shift building usage to cause stress and tension. Sex Motels: they were cheap and often had garages for the Lark. We used them to crash hard for 8 hours and start again... Mostly in El Salvador and Mexico for about $20/night.

Knowing where to find resources allowed us to affect many good quality repairs in San Diego, before commencing our drive along Route 66: solar shading on the windows to reduce the heat load on the A/C, air shocks to solve the rear suspension puzzle, GPS for our ease, leak repairs to cure the Larks incontinence, and load lightening. Man, was it good to get out on good roads!

Arriving in Nogales, Arizona after a LONG, GRUELING, but never DULL: Roadtrip!
First Destination: San Diego, CA

Along historic Route 66, we drove 90% along the major highway and dipped in to the old Route 66 to get gas and view attractions. If anyone out there reading this is an old car aficionado or a train lover, traveling Route 66 is a fantastic corridor for both trains and old car lots.

We continued on past Chicago (the Eastern terminus of Route 66) to visit the Studebaker museum in South Bend, Indiana. The South Bend Indiana plant made not only Studebaker cars like our Lark, but also the military trucks that interest me, the M35, known as the “duce and a half”. Studebaker built these trucks for the military, and later in 1964 when Studebaker sold their plant to Kaiser the trucks continued to be built there. Eventually Kaiser became a part of American Motors Corporation, maker of the Pacer, Javlin and AMX. American Motors was bought by General Motors in the early seventies, and General Motors spun off the military truck building, creating AM General, which is still in business today making the Humvee.

Before long, we arrived on the East Coast tired and intact, then headed up through New York State along the Hudson first, and then east along the Erie Canal. We took a boat tour through a working canal section and lock, learning the history of the canal and viewing the technology that is still functioning today.

Above: NY State and PA border along the Delaware River
Below: Eerie Canal Tour

Our visit to Niagara Falls was quite enjoyable. I had no idea about the carnival atmosphere being built there.

The Canadian side is really interesting and again, we got into the tourist things, taking in an IMAX movie about the daredevils of the Falls, riding on a boat right into the mist of the falls, walking in and around the town like tourists do. We continued as far west as New London, Ontario to enjoy the company of one of Heidi’s high school friends.

The Lark took us back to the East Coast in Marion, Massachusetts, where the Lark will be garaged at Heidi’s fathers house. We took the time to remove the Costa Rica Plates and install Mass plates. The Lark will be right at home, as Heidi’s father’s house is right on the water leading to Buzzards Bay. Ok, that’s a stretch, but a buzzard and a Lark are birds….. guess I just laid an egg.

Yellow Unimog's New Home: La Fortuna, Costa Rica

2008-07-01T17:27:00.001-06:00

Arenal Volcano, Costa Rica: the only active volcano in Costa Rica with lava spew!

The Yellow Unimog that I originally imported in from Germany, along with a white and orange one, I was finally able to see in its new home: La Fortuna, Arenal, Costa Rica.

The La Fortuna, Arenal area has many, many natural attractions. Its new owner, Bill Brown, bought Yellow from Adventure Motors to start a tour company in this area. He uses Yellow for his tour company, aptly named: Adventure Tours, "Bigger than Yours!". Tours to the nearby Volcano: Vulcan Arenal, or just through jungles and rivers in a beautiful, wild environment.

I'll be posting a video, if possible, of one of his tours. Stay tuned!

Transportation in Cuba

2008-05-30T15:01:00.004-06:00

Cuba has many, many antique vehicles and we enjoyed seeing them throughout our recent trip:

Empty highways, above, but maintained well.

Vehicles are often kept in excellent condition, and with the embargo, that has to be enormous effort.

We definitely did the tourist thing!

There are still, many old fashioned ways of transporting here. Most popular are the horse and buggy combos- we saw them everywhere, including on the major highways.

What a truck!

Chatting up some local mechanics, one had an old Studebaker...

Below, a video of our taxi ride on these 3-wheeled vehicles.

The vehicle eye-candy was better than reputed. Nowhere on the planet is there this many old cars.

Getting in the Mood for a Central America Roadtrip!

2008-05-24T08:30:00.004-06:00

Here are a couple of video clips featuring the Studebaker Lark vintage commercials. To get you in the mood for our upcoming blog posts during our Central America road trip this summer. We will be departing in late July and driving the 1960 Studebaker Lark (featured in earlier posts in 2006) from Costa Rica through: Nicaragua, Honduras, Guatemala, Mexico to San Diego, CA. Then we will drive it across the US to the east coast. We may need to make a few pilgramage visits to the Studebaker museum and Studebaker aficionados along the way!

First video below is the Studebaker '60 Lark commercial featuring Mr. Ed, their sponsor. Lark was promoted as a roomy compact car, which it truly is.

Second video below is a commerical featuring new Larks and their "performability".

New Project: Family Wagon! (part 4, conclusion)

2007-12-23T21:55:00.000-06:00

6) Electrical system

At this point I was at a crossroads regarding the electrical system. The Canadian trucks are all 24v operating systems, while the California and all gas trucks are 12v electrical systems. I had done inconclusive research on whether I could create a “dual” system using both 12v and 24v systems by tapping one battery in the series. As a result, I was left with the known choices of either converting the 12v California truck to 24v or converting the 24v Canadian motor to 12v. Converting the motor to 12v meant another trip to Spector Off Road to purchase a 12v starter, alternator, glow plugs and related glow plug components. I would also need to make wiring modifications, as the wiring harnesses are very different.

In the end, I decided using more time over more money. I had the entire 24v conversion “kit” sitting there, in the Canadian truck. I called Heidi and asked her to change the date of my return ticket to Costa Rica, adding another week to the project window.

My first step in the electrical swap was to pull all the wiring from the “donor” diesel truck. I first pulled the under hood wiring back in through the firewall on both sides, then pulled the main harness from the inside behind the dash, keeping as many connections together as possible. At the junction where the wiring passes to the rear, there was a big plug for the rear lights and lift gate. I followed this back and grabbed as much wiring as possible. However, the rear lamp assemblies were in an advanced state of corrosion and could not be removed, much less reused! My solution was to obtain all the rear 24v bulbs from the local NAPA store and reuse the clean non-rusty Cali lamp assemblies!

Next I stripped out the wiring from Red. This doesn’t take too long, but the slight adaptations that are necessary for the year model and fuel differences between the trucks gave me a few moments of study as I pieced together the routing and connections. For information I had access to Mitchell Manuals wiring diagrams, which proved very valuable in the process. As the system came together, I was also able to diagnose and repair broken wires to the rear window wiper and washer system. I used all the Canadian relays, switches, resistors, modules and instrument cluster.

Here's the diesel harness, laying in it's approximate configuration when installed in the truck. Note the heavy concentration of relays and control boxes in the portion of the harness in the upper center of the photo. Those controls are for the glow plugs, charge lamp and wipers.

The vacated Diesel truck. The interior was pretty decent and matched the Silver truck in color. I used a few pieces to upgrade Silver. Bonus!

The vacated dash on Red. There's an extra box under the dash where the air conditioner evaporator resides. The A/C has a seperate loom and connects to the climate control panel and passes out to the compressor. Other than that, the truck has been brought to the point of commonality with the diesel truck. That ugly non-factory wiring to the left of the column are radio power leads. I'll clean it up when I figure out how to power a 12v radio with a 24v system.

Carpet is kinda faded, huh? If you do this process, be sure to remove the seats to give yourself room to move.

Testing dash functions before final assembly. The dash went together slower than it came apart, 'cause there's a sequence that must be followed. Get it out of order and you have to back up and correct your mistakes. With all the ducting, it gets packed.

7) Results, remaining issues and problems

After doing the electrical conversion the truck was ready to be driven. I drove the truck around the San Diego area, running errands and enjoying the remaining days of my stay in the San Diego area. At the very end of our stay we delivered the 2 trucks to a shipper for their overseas journey to Costa Rica. I call the swap a complete success and look forward to tackling the remaining issues very soon:

A) I have a drivability issue to solve: The diesel truck has a heavy surge at light throttle, especially in the lower gears. I posted this issue on the IH8MUD.com forum and received some great potential solutions. I’ll get after the problem when I see the trucks again. I should see them in another month (Jan ’08)

B) The tachometer and fuel gauges are intermittent. I believe the fuel sender is failed and poor connections are the culprit for the tachometer.

C) The Canadian trucks don’t generally come with air conditioners for some reason. So I am going to need to source the pieces missing from the motor to mount and drive an air conditioning pump. The Red truck has a complete A/C system otherwise.

D) When I chose to convert the truck to 24v, I created further problems to solve: The Warn winch is 12v and needs to be removed, find a replacement, or refit the existing unit with a 24v motor.

E) The ARB compressor and solenoids are also 12v. So the air lockers are dead weight until I get that sorted out. I discovered a factory 12v tap off the first battery in the series. This tap powers the headlights! With this discovery, I have an opportunity to research a solution for some small accessories, like the radio (also 12v), the ARB compressor and the cigarette lighter.

8) Summation and recommendations The entire project, starting with the flight to Vancouver and ending with the delivery of the trucks to the shipper occurred within a span of 3 weeks. I like what I have accomplished. To me the truck is as close to factory as can be. With the exception of the FJ VIN#, this truck is a Toyota HJ60. For our principal “daily driver”, anything less would have me doubting myself. I have a sense of security and look forward to OEM reliability and ease of service.

New Project: Family Wagon! (part 3)

2007-12-23T20:41:00.001-06:00

4) Preparation of Red

After wraping up the 1985 "freebie", the next step was to clean out all the parts and components in Red that would not be used for the conversion. All the smog components, ignition, brackets and other unnecessary parts were removed. The goal was to reduce the truck to the point where there is commonality with the diesel. In this swap, that means removing the gas specific inner fender panels and engine frame tabs. I used a plasma cutter to clean off the frame, following with a grinder to clean and prepare the frame surface for the diesel specific frame tabs.

5) Diesel Installation

I removed the diesel motor from the Canadian truck and prepared the motor with the parts from Spector Off Road. My plan for the install was to follow the method I had read on the IH8MUD.com forum. http://forum.ih8mud.com/ IH8MUD.com contributer Wayneraintree accomplished the motor frame tab installation in truck by installing the diesel motor with the frame tabs bolted to the motor. However, his method necessitated the removal of the motor for a second time to weld the frame tabs. I was encouraged by Walter to measure and pre-install the frame tabs to speed the process. This method worked out well and I would definitely suggest this to others, as there is an abundance of datum points for an exact installation.

With the motor in place and mounted, it was time to start installing all the pieces that connect the motor to the vehicle. This includes the intake, exhaust, starting and cooling systems. This process my starting at the fuel cap and working my way forward on the fuel system. Anything that was diesel specific was installed. Heat shields, brackets, everything was scrutinized for compatibility. I changed out the foot pedal and the special hand throttle cable special to diesels. I installed the inner fenders to obtain the brackets to support the air cleaner.

Overall, this swap was 99.99% nuts and bolts. I recall drilling only one hole to fit the diesel throttle linkage up high on the firewall. This was easily accomplished and there was even a access hatch plate next to the location, making the backing nut installation a snap.

Here's Red stripped down to the essentials. The inner fenders have brackets and holes specific to the diesel, so they are removed for the conversion as well. 2F gas motor frame tabs are still present.

The power steering lines are removed all the way to the gear, as the pump is mounted in a different position on the diesel motor and the hoses are routed differently.

On Red I took a few extra minutes and resealed the transmission front retainer. It was a good thing too. The seal lip material was hard as ceramic!

Right motor frame tab cleaned and the area prepped for the installation of the diesel motor tab. I put a small hole in the frame on this side, but I'll fill it up with weld. It wil be just fine.

Left side prepped. This tab gets a greater amount of movement. Note all the holes to act as datum points for pre-installing the tabs before dropping in the diesel.

Here I hot glue gunned on the right side diesel motor tab to the frame. The heat color indicates good penetration and I was pleased with the results.

View of left tab from the front. These mounting tabs were cut off of the "donor" truck and cleaned up for installation on Red.

Right tab from the rear.

Left tab from the rear.

With the frame tabs welded in, I had a place to set the motor. After painting the new frame tabs, I placed the motor in place and got busy with the fuel system, exhaust piping, clutch hydraulics, cooling system and throttle cabling. This is the "glory" work and goes pretty fast.

The fuel system required the greatest amount of materials transfer. Without a whole donor vehicle there is no way I would have had the correct pieces on hand to accomplish the conversion. The fuel filler, vent tubing, and the fuel feed line were all distinct to the diesel.

The vapor recovery device in the rear quarter panel is the same part number. This was good news for me 'cause the diesel rig unit was rusted piece of refuse! The filler neck and filler cap were something I never would have thought of if I tried to do the conversion by ordering parts.

New Project: Family Wagon! (part 2)

2007-12-23T19:49:00.000-06:00

1) Creation of Gas truck

My first action was to make the “spare” 1985 truck operable and finish getting the title and registration complete. To do this I removed the gas motor from the '83 truck and installed it in the '85 truck. This was fairly easy, as the 83 had been the recipient of the 85's motor sometime in the recent past, and the parts were all there. I was able to get the title, smog inspection and registration complete on the '85 in a few days. Having the '85 is a complete bonus! We are shipping the “spare” truck here to Costa Rica where we will use it as a spare and I’ll have another project for conversion!

Here's the gas motor in "Red" (1983), ready for removal. This motor has already passed the emissions testing, so after installing the motor in the '85 (Silver), we can expect an easy pass!

Red has a bunch of drive train upgrades. My favorite is the ARB air shifted locking differentials. At the center of the photo is the compressor and solenoids for the iar shift system.Where we live, a rear locker is essential when it's raining heavy and traction is poor. The front locker is a bonus!

Red, in pre-op.

Red, post-op! And a little lighter...

The 2F 6 cylinder gas motor destined for Silver. I did nothing to the motor, other than chinching the oil pan gasket bolts. This motor will eventually be replaced with another diesel conversion when the truck is in our possession here in Costa Rica.

2F motor and accessories installed in Silver. Turns out there was a hitch in our plans. The origonal emissions was performed in a area where static (2 speeds with out being loaaded on the dyno) was allowed. When I tested the same motor in Silver, the emissions test was on the dyno and guess what? She failed!

The emisions failure was due to high levels of Oxidies of Nitrogen. We diagnosed the problem (headers installed with improper provisions for EGR) and effected repairs. The retest resulted in a clean pass.

New Project: Family Wagon! (part 1)

2007-12-23T19:04:00.000-06:00

Latest Project: Family 'Cruiser!

These three Land Cruisers are the subjects of our most recent conversion! On the left is a 1986 Hj60 from Canada. It has the diesel engine with an automatic transmission. It will be the "doner" for our new family wagon (the Red 1983 FJ60 on the right). In the center is the "free" 1985 FJ60, sans motor. Our plan is to build our Red '83 truck into a diesel rig, then install the gas motor from the '83 into the '85, giving us a free Land Cruiser! How cool is that?

My wife and I, after living in Costa Rica for a couple of years, have experienced the generally poor condition of both the roads and the vehicles, particularly out in the country where we live. The combination of bad roads, wet weather, developing nation economics, high import taxes restricting access to quality goods and services around vehicles all affect the vehicles. As a result, vehicles here are generally damaged, worn out and inadequately repaired and maintained.

Heidi, and I are in the process of adopting children and we were looking forward at our vehicle needs. We decided on the Toyota Land Cruiser, specifically, the 60 series for a number of reasons.

You sit nice and high in these trucks with great visibility
You’re able to tell where the corners of the car are giving you the ability to maneuver the vehicle, although large, in tight places
4 X 4
Absolute simplicity and durability of diesel power
Efficiency of a diesel vs. gas motor
Mechanics know these engines well in Costa Rica
The early 60 series had manual windows, less electronic gadgetry = less overall failures and expenses in maintenance
Toyota diesel engines can run up to 300-500,000 miles

The 60 series trucks exist here with the diesel engine, but for the above-stated reasons, almost all are both very expensive and really torn up! Always looking for a solution, I came up with the idea of purchasing a clean, straight, rust-free California Toyota Land Cruiser truck and converting it from an FJ (gas motor) to an HJ (diesel motor) and shipping it to Costa Rica.
On a recent family visit to San Diego, California, I made a special one-way trip to Santa Cruz, where I purchased a Red 1983 FJ60. I had been searching Craigslist for weeks looking for this opportunity: This truck had some great features already installed: it has a 4” suspension lift; aggressive 33” tires; 4.88 differential gears; front and rear ARB differential lockers, Warn winch and more. As a bonus the seller included a complete second vehicle for parts: A stock 1985 FJ60 Land Cruiser, missing its engine. I drove the ’83 with the ’85 in tow from Santa Cruz back down to San Diego and left them with my family. This purchase would be the basis of our new family wagon.

After returning to Costa Rica, I started researching where and how to obtain a diesel engine for this potential project. Motors here are hard to find, as resources are so precious that there are really very few recycle yards. The worn out trucks are just patched and patched over and over! Australia is a better potential resource, but after shipping and taxes, it’s no bargain.

It turns out that on the west coast of Canada there’s a 6 cylinder diesel Toyota Land Cruiser for sale, almost every week of the year. I kept searching for a reasonably priced “donor” vehicle. Something I could get at the lowest possible price, yet obtain all of the running gear that I wanted. I wanted a whole truck so I would have every nut, bolt, and piece to do a complete conversion. However, the Canadian 6 cylinder diesels were all unfortunately delivered with an automatic transmission. So I would have to buy some pieces to adapt the diesel to the gas truck.

1) Project Commencement

For a few months of checking Craigslist and reading about this particular type of engine conversion on an internet forum called: “IH8MUD.com” http://forum.ih8mud.com/ , I was ready to purchase a donor vehicle. I contacted two diesel Land Cruiser owners in Vancouver, British Columbia. I let them know I was planning to come to Vancouver specifically to buy a vehicle. My wife booked me a one-way flight and on November 6th, 2007, I flew from Costa Rica to Vancouver.

I stayed in a hotel and negotiated a purchase the next day. What I bought was a 1986 HJ60 with an automatic transmission. I spent the next two days driving through Washington and Oregon and all the way down to southern California. On the drive down, I stopped at Specter Off-Road in Hawthorne (Los Angeles area) http://www.sor.com/ Where I met Marv Specter and his team. We toured his facility and I purchased a flywheel, bell housing, clutch kit, and all related nuts, bolts and pieces to make a complete conversion kit for adapting the diesel automatic engine to mate to a standard 4-speed transmission.

My former employee and friend, Walter, was kind enough to allow me the use of his work space for this conversion. I can’t say enough about the generosity of Walter and his family. I had given myself from the 6th until the 20th of November to do the conversion. As I had some rather large objectives, I did almost no socializing and worked late hours. Walter was informative and generous with his tools, space, home and helpful suggestions, all of which provided a improved process and final product. Thanks Walt!

Electric Volkswagen Conversion & Restoration Project

2007-12-23T11:46:00.000-06:00

'57 Volkswagen Type II Electric Conversion

1) Electric vehicle concept and rationalization

In the mid to late ‘90’s I was living a mile or so from my at the time business, Sunset Garage. I didn’t need a car for my commute: I would ride my bicycle, walk (occasionally) ride my motorcycle or drive my car (mostly) if I was lazy or needed to do some running around during the day.

At the same time, I wanted to build something new and distinctive. Different concepts and ideas presented themselves, but the idea of an electric car, now that was something! I started digging around for info on electric cars. Production cars like the EV-1 were still prototypes or existed in the imagination of engineers. But during my internet researching I discovered the existence of a whole world of electric cars. These vehicles were made “green” by taking production vehicles and removing their combustion engines. Then an electric motor and batteries are installed. What’s more, I discovered there was an electric car club with a very active Chapter in San Diego!

2) Study of body styles and subsequent purchase

After researching the available electric conversion technologies and resources, I began to look at host vehicles. I had envisioned creating something that would be fun to drive around the neighborhood, loaded with my buddies and our surf gear. I had always admired the Volkswagen Bus, (known as a “Type II) with the safari windows and “cool” surf culture status. There was a particular variant that I thought looked most excellent, called the “Double-cab”. That’s a crew-cab 3 door bus with a second bench seat behind the driver, with a little pick-up bed behind the cabin.

My chosen source for the motor package, Electro-Automotive, had a really nice set of adaptations to convert a VW to electric. So I started searching for a “host” VW Type II Double-cab, but there was only a few, and the selection seemed to be either rusted out husks or pricey show pieces with nothing to choose from in between.

At the opportunity to attend a gathering of Vintage Volkswagens, I made a key realization. The Strictly Vintage Type II’s San Diego chapter had convened at Deer Park in Escondido, Ca. Strictly Vintage Type II’s is a club dedicated to the first rendition of Volkswagen busses from about 1952 to 1967. While I was admiring and inspecting the various versions of the earlier busses, I learned that the pick-up model, with the single bench had a HUGE storage “chest” under the bed. This was where the batteries would go! With that discovery, I knew that I could have an electric Type II that would look very stylish with a lowered stance, fat rims with wide skinny tires, chrome, safari windows and a big killer stereo!

Not too many weeks later I spotted the perfect bus. It was an incomplete project left by a young man who was tragically killed in a driving accident. The 1957 truck was in pieces and was missing its engine. His parents were selling the truck for a fair price to get it out of their sight and out of their garage. It was a somber day when I came to collect the truck.The 1957 Type II bus was nearly perfect for my needs. I was going to forever alter a classic car, and I didn’t want to take a good representative of the breed for my purpose! It had rust everywhere: Around the wheel openings, battery tray, floor boards and a long deep scrape along the driver side that was covered by 40 pounds of plastic filler. The impact had actually pierced the side of the truck. The side gates of the bed were Swiss cheese from rust through and the rear gate was MIA. The rear engine cover looked like it had been run over. On the positive side, the truck also came with lowered suspension, bigger brakes and a ton of extra stuff. In my opinion the truck was fairly priced: I got all the modified suspension goodies and a rusty truck attached!

This photo above was given to me by the parents of the young man who had started the Volkswagen restoration project. Behind the subject of the photo (the aircraft) you can see the Volkswagen when it was in an operating condition. Note the incorrect era bumpers and taillights. Part of my restoration project was to correct these non-conforming modifications. Approximate year of photo would be early-mid-'70's.

3) Build up of drive train

Having selected my host vehicle and figured a general configuration of the layout of the batteries, I started by restoring the brakes, suspension and steering. I was fortunate to be the shop owner of Sunset Garage. I used all the resources available: tools, shop equipment, information systems, parts resources and most important, Herbert English and Walter Gates, my employees and friends. Without these two good friends/employees, this project would never have happened. As it was the project moved at a slow pace. I worked after hours and on weekends. In addition, the parts sources I used for our ordinary business were not able to assist me. I had to find and use numerous mail order companies that specialized in old Volkswagens. In about 4 months time I had assembled a “rolling chassis”, or in other words I had a rebuilt chassis with a nasty looking truck on top! I had the lowering kits correctly installed on the front and rear suspension, had the transaxle rebuilt, replaced the brake hydraulics in total, including half the steel lines and all of the hoses. I installed the largest brakes I could fit on the ’57 front and rear axles. Everywhere I worked, I cleaned, sandblasted and repainted parts and sub-assemblies to put the beauty back into the beast!

4) Fabrication of wiring harness

As I decided how and where to route wiring and battery cables, I cut as few holes in the truck body as necessary. By this time in the build, I had taken delivery on the motor kit I had ordered from Electro Automotive. The kit consisted of the 9” brushed DC motor, adaptors to fit the motor to the transaxle, controller, a charger, gauges and throttle potentiometer. Both the kit and the instructions were complete. The electric motor mounted to the transaxle quickly. I mounted the throttle potentiometer and fabricated linkage to operate from the stock gas pedal. I then ran wiring from under the dash to the potentiometer and on back to the motor controller. After mounting the charger and controller, I completed the wiring for the entire control and monitor circuits. At this time I also cleaned up the wiring in the engine compartment where the unused wiring to the gas engine was no longer needed.

5) Construction of battery boxes, battery inter-connects and cabling

With the guidance and advice of my friend George Gall, I decided on making the battery containment system in a cassette fashion. Our goal was to create a 120v supply system installed in “cassettes” to feed the motor. To shorten the cable leads and interconnections between batteries, we made the battery boxes out of wood and fiberglass such that there were 4 cassettes containing 5 individual 6v batteries connected in series. George laid the fiberglass over the plywood boxes to strengthen and protect the wood from battery juices. Each battery had its own screw down containment clamp and I must say, the result turned out very sexy! I fabricated the battery inter-connections using 1’ by 1/8’ copper strap. I put reverse curves into the strap design to give flex to the connections. The batteries were supplied with a vertical lug for accepting the strap with a 5/16’ bolt through the center. After installing the battery pack. I made and installed the cables between the motor and batteries using welders’ cable and cable eyelets that were both crimped and soldered.

6) Road test power train. The moment had come.

The batteries were charged, all the connections were tight and all systems were go. Remember this was still a very rusty and incomplete truck. I had the doors, bed sides and all the window glass out of the truck. It was a stripped hulk! I threw some wood into the cab, to replace the missing seat I had stored at home. I started with short trips, first around the block, then increasing in duration and throttle application. It was so cool I decided to drive it home that afternoon. I almost made it too but I stopped at George’s house to show him my progress. While it was parked out front a tire went flat. I had no spare. Thus her maiden voyage ended. She was broken and had to be temporarily left abandoned, a good walking distance from my house.

7) Disassembly and body prep

Once the operational status was confirmed, I could move on to the body restoration. We stripped the newly installed battery power system, gauges, lights and electrical system. We left the axles and wheels on the stripped chassis in order to move it around. I did some early grunt work on the body metal, including sand blasting the body and some major structural metal replacement in the front wheel wells. During this period I purchased all three used bed sides and the engine apron across the engine compartment.

8) Body work and painting

When the rough work was done, I called for an expert to bring the truck body back to its former beauty. Gene Sheppard, a client, former city firefighter and friend agreed to do the body and paint. All I can say is WOW! He had the most amazing skills. He could use heat and quenching to shrink the metal in a damaged area. His hands found minute waves that the eye could not detect. Gene worked long and hard to put as little plastic filler on the body as possible. The work he did to remove the huge gash down the side was incredible! Gene, more than all the other people who assisted in this project, made the largest contribution to the truck’s beauty and value. After many weeks, the day finally came to where Gene began painting the truck. First spraying the entire tough-to-reach areas, then the inside of the cab, and finally, finishing with the outside. The doors and bed gates were sprayed with the same strategy, but separately on a spray bench. Although I picked Volkswagen paint codes from the early 60’s, the 2 tone red and off-white paint scheme was not an original color option. I always liked the red/white combo and I picked the colors carefully to create both a vintage look and a modern touch.

9) Reassembly and fine tuning

It’s a monumental amount of work assembling a car. Even though this Volkswagen Bus was vintage and therefore very simple, there were a gazillion details to sweat. Finding replacement parts like window gaskets and floor mats were easy, since there are a few mail order companies who make their entire business selling Volkswagen parts. For hard or nearly impossible to find stuff I would go to the semi annual swap meets. Here I was able to source obsolete and rare used parts. In addition, I learned that there are collectors and enthusiasts all over the state and the country. Some individuals were practically walking, talking parts catalogs. My truck had a few particular characteristics that when described to these few people, would indicate to them that my truck was built exactly mid year in 1957! These guys were tuned in to the subtle changes in manufacturing over the entire 15 year production run! My progress reassembling the truck went by advances and pauses: my method was to order everything I could need, work on a given task until I was either done or needed something additional. Then that task was put aside while re-ordering and waiting for more materials. It wasn’t too long of an assembly because it had been built up and tested before. So while it wasn’t exactly “Fit tab A into slot B”, it wasn’t all that laborious either.

10) Stereo system

As the truck became drivable, my buddy Jim Hull came and measured the cab total volume and space available for a stereo installation. Jim worked for a major car stereo company doing production work. His involvement for my project was done after business hours at his job. What Jimmy created for me was absolutely exceptional. The system he assembled was a radio head and 6 disc CD changer with remote infra-red access. These played through twin 12” woofers mounted in a tuned, ported enclosure, a pair of 6” directional mid speakers and a pair of 2” tweeters, also directional. These were driven by a 600 watt amp through active and passive crossovers. Jim did the whole thing, computer designing and building the custom enclosures, install, wiring, tuning the amp, the works. I loved the sound, and I’d say I’ve never had such a beautiful sound system. Mettalica never sounded so good or so loud!

11) Conclusions and suggestions

I almost completed this project. I had a fully functioning battery powered low riding red and white chariot! What was missing was the front and rear bumpers. I had located the bumpers, but I was satisfied with the way it looked without them. Installing bumpers would have been a step backward in my opinion. Not to mention that the correct bumpers were very rare. In addition they were WAY expensive! The truck worked really great within the design and the intended use. I was completely satisfied with the function. I enjoyed driving it for a while. But my life was changing. I found a buyer for my business. I started the new millennium with time for extended travel. There was no more 1 mile commute to work! There was no more commute at all! I no longer had keys to a shop with a hoist, compressor and all types of tools. I was ready to move on. Within months the electric Pickup no longer served as my main vehicle. I advertised the truck and sold the truck to a teacher up in Los Angeles. Eight months after selling my business, I delivered the truck to the school teacher in L.A. He e-mailed me once or twice after taking ownership with questions, but I don’t know if he’s still driving it or not. In conclusion, the project matured me in a few different ways. I now realize how extremely important it is to be surrounded by people who have skills and are generous in spirit and with their abilities. Relationships are important for the completion of a project, but they are also important for giving and to receiving contributions of specific skills from good friends. I was surrounded by very generous people during this period of my life, and the experience is a treasured memory. The second point of maturity is more pragmatic. Given the monumental amount of hours and cubic dollars spent on the restoration and conversion, it was surprising to find out that expenses were fractionally valued when it was time to sell! I am now completely clear that projects are to be appreciated for the enjoyment of the process more than anything else. Given these two points of wisdom, my future projects will be for the fun and enjoyment of the contribution of accumulated skills of those around me. This and the process of group creation will be my rewards.

The VW in a corner tucked next to my business at the time, Sunset Garage, Ocean Beach, San Diego. Down the street at the end of the block is the Pacific Ocean!

This was my first documented conversion process. On reflection, I notice and have made the corrections, so that my subsequent conversions will all be better documented. I did not take many technical photos of this project. That is my only regret.

Unimog 4 Sale! "404"

2007-06-17T10:50:00.000-06:00

UNIMOG 4 SALE! "404"

We are offering for sale in good condition, 1962 Unimog 404 on consignment. You can learn more about this vehicle, its history, its owner, by clicking on our website directly: www.advmo.com .

Coming Soon: Volkswagon Truck goes Electric!!!!

2006-07-21T13:48:00.000-06:00

Coming Soon:

How did this '57 VW Truck become a Tricked-out Electric Vehicle?

Find out in our next set of posts: pictures and descriptions of the conversion.

Top Ten Driving Tips of Costa Rica: #1-4

2006-05-27T14:20:00.000-06:00

Top Ten Driving Tips for Costa Rica

The following article is a primer, or introduction, to safe and competent driving in Costa Rica. While this article is brief and does not necessarily cover all facets of driving in Costa Rica, it is an attempt to cover the most important aspects of vehicle safety here.

1. Maintain a high level of concentration while driving

It is easier to maintain a high level of concentration while driving during the daytime, therefore we recommend you to avoid nighttime driving. The paved and dirt roads of Costa Rica, while better than some roads around the world, have many dangerous challenges that are not easily foreseen.

~Large pot holes
~Road side and road bed wash outs
~Narrow bridges
~Pedestrian, motorcycle traffic
~Horses, cattle, dogs, and other animals on the roads
~Other vehicles (at night, sometimes without lights)
~Narrow roads and very little, if any, shoulder
~If you get stuck at night, finding help is more difficult

All of these obstacles make driving challenging in Costa Rica. Therefore, driving when visibility is best, makes sense and raises your chances of successfully navigating the roads of Costa Rica. The pressure and attention needed to drive at night is often not worth whatever you would gain by nighttime driving. For ex., I recently almost hit a cow on the road while driving at night. The hides and eyes of cattle do not seem to reflect light. I was literally on top of the herd before I realized they were there! Who would have thought cattle would be in the middle of a road the night?

As you can see from the list of obstacles described above, a high level of concentration is needed at all times behind the wheel. Costa Rica highways are not like many highways in other parts of the world. On the highways of Costa Rica there are a lot of hills and most of the highways are single-lane, allowing for no relaxation. If you want to pass the numerous, slow trucks on highways, you will be passing vehicles constantly, and on hills and narrow roads, this is riskier than ever. Additionally, you drive faster on the highways and need more time to break suddenly - which you frequently have to do.

Off-road driving, or, driving any of the paved roads in poor condition (i.e., with lots of potholes), requires the driver to concentrate on the path and track of both sets of wheels, left and right. You should also watch others in front of you to see what they are swerving to avoid. Be sure and leave some space if you are following vehicles in front of you. You need to be able to see the road surface and their maneuvers. If you are to swerve, you need to be able to see if you have room on the shoulder and the oncoming traffic in view the other lane.

2. Adjusting tire pressure for on-road/off-road

We recommend for both paved roads in very poor condition and the unpaved roads of Costa Rica, that you lower your tire air pressure from the maximum tire pressure stated on the vehicle’s tires. You may need to try your vehicle with different tire pressures to find the best pressure for your vehicle, its weight, and the driving conditions. I have found that for passenger cars and trucks, running the tire pressure from 18-25 pounds gives the vehicle you are driving improved ride characteristics, traction, and smoothness to absorb potholes and the washboard effect of the unpaved roads. For paved roads in reliably good condition, use the tire pressure as recommended by your vehicle’s manufacturer. Deflating and re-inflating the tires requires access to compressed air of some sort. For our vehicle, I have purchased an on-board air compressor. I am able to re-inflate the tires at any point in our trip without having to locate a gas station. I also purchased a tire pressure gauge with a circular dial. I can now accurately measure our tires’ pressure. I recommend the circular dial gauge at minimum if you are not planning to purchase an air compressor. Knowing ahead of time where the gas stations are is also helpful.

3. Vehicle preparedness is essential.

The driving in Costa Rica is much more demanding of a vehicle. Therefore, preparedness is essential to driving with reduced risk of incidents. Due to the demands on our vehicle in Costa Rica, mechanical and electrical devices may fail frequently and without notice. Preparation is necessary before driving of any type, duration or distance. We highly recommend the following:

· Conduct a visual inspection of the tires and tire condition, including the spare.
· Make sure that you have your spare changing tools and know how to use them.
· Make sure your mirrors are able to be adjusted according to your needs and are well-secured.
· Make sure all of your exterior and interior lights and signals work.
· Make sure your vehicle’s head-lights are properly aimed. In addition, you may want to consider upgraded or auxiliary lighting.
· Make sure all vehicle fluid levels: engine oil, coolant, windshield wiper fluid, brake fluid, transmission fluid and power steering fluid are at their proper levels.
· Keep the interior and exterior glass clean for visibility.
· Make sure your windshield wipers and washers are in excellent condition.
· If you have a defroster or A/C, make sure it is capable of clearing steamed or foggy windows.
· Make sure you have enough gasoline or diesel for your destination or a means to obtain it. You might consider carrying extra fuel for long or back country drives.

4. Driver preparedness is also important.

· Know the laws related to driving here as they are enforced!
· Know where you are going and how to get there (have your map). Searching for directions or counting on being able to call someone by cell phone is not wise while driving in Costa Rica. You may not have phone access on the road.
· Know how to change a tire. The likelihood of getting a flat is higher her due to the road conditions.
· If you are off-road, know how to operate your 4WD.
· Be well-rested. Don’t drive fatigued!
· Have working seat belts and use them.
· Wear sunglasses during the day and don’t forget your prescription glasses if you need them.
· Try not to drive alone if you can avoid it, it is better to have someone with you for moral support, navigating, making a call and spelling the driver.
· Additional things to have on board: 3 reflective tri-angles in case of breakdown; gas can; circular dial tire gauge; jumper cables; tow rope; emergency flashlight; drinking water and cell phone.

Top Ten Driving Tips for Costa Rica: #5-10

2006-05-26T09:13:00.000-06:00

Top Ten Driving Tips for Costa Rica #5-10

5. Frequently asked for and necessary documents

. You need a valid license to drive in Costa Rica. Costa Rica honors other countries’ valid driving licenses for 90 days. If you are here longer than 3 months, it will no longer be valid. After 90 days you should obtain the Costa Rican license.
· Your passport or your cédula card if you are a resident. If you don’t want to carry your original passport in your vehicle, you will need a photocopy of both the passport picture page and the page with the most recent entry stamp into Costa Rica.
· The vehicle papers: copy or original title/registration, RTV and marchambo to date
· Front and rear plates (or your temporary paper plates)
· If driving outside of Costa Rica, there are additional documents required. Consult your attorney.

6. Be aware of the dry vs. wet season differences

During the dry season (November - April), visibility can be impeded due to the high level of dust on the dirt roads. People often are not prepared for this. In these low visibility conditions, we recommend leaving an extra amount of space between you and the vehicle ahead, for the dust to settle or blow aside off the road. The dirt roads become wash-boarded and rocky this time of year (please refer to tip about tire pressure, as this is applicable for dirt road driving).

During the wet season (May - November), there are many additional challenges which have been alluded to under the other tips. The roads are in worse condition, paved and unpaved. There is water in the potholes which prevents you from seeing the depth of the hole. We advise you to slow down! If you can’t find a path around all of the potholes, adjust your speed and drive slowly enough so that you do not hammer on your suspension system as you pass through them. More things on your vehicle will fail or break down in the wet season than during any other time! The rain, humidity and poorer quality of the roads, all take their toll on your vehicle. The rainy season is also the time when you need certain aspects of your vehicle to work properly more than ever. In particular, your wipers, defroster, and lights need to be operational at all times. Don’t put off vehicle repairs during the wet season!

A few words about river crossings: the rivers are deeper and moving faster during the rainy season. If you come to a river and it is “running bank to bank” (you don’t see the slope of the bank on either side of the river) then it is highly likely that the river is too deep for you to cross. Most vehicles have the ability to ford a depth up to the center of their wheels (some a little more, some a little less). When in doubt, watch other vehicles cross to see the depth, or, walk into and across the river yourself to measure its depth. Oftentimes, there is a build up of rock and sand slightly downstream of the crossing point. This provides you with a circular or off-center route around the deepest spot of the river - that way across is safer. Lastly, when encountering a river, and you are in doubt about crossing, don’t do it! If it is too deep, you’ll be lucky to get towed out by a tractor or larger vehicle and sustain minimal damage to the vehicle. However, if you are unlucky, you could lose your vehicle altogether!

7. Air conditioning adds safety to your driving

Air conditioning enhances driving safety. During the wet season, it may be difficult to get your car aired out and dried out using windows alone. Older vehicles may not have an A/C. If you prefer an older vehicle, you might consider adding an air conditioner for both comfort and safety. Air conditioners also function as defrosters, which can be very important for visibility when it is rainy or humid.

8. Taller vehicles with better ground clearance improve visibility and safety

In Costa Rica, any advantage you can add to your visibility is worth considering. Being able to see further down the road allows you to judge the depth of potential potholes and the presence of other obstacles. This added visibility also gives the driver more time to assess and maneuver around those obstacles. In addition, most vehicles that are taller and have better ground clearance will likely have 4WD. If you are driving off-road, we highly recommend having and knowing how to use 4WD.

9. Newer, sophisticated vehicles aren’t necessarily better vehicles for Costa Rica

In our experience of having our vehicles repaired, we have found there are fewer breakdowns with older and less sophisticated machines. Also there is a greater number of mechanics able to assist you and a higher possibility of effective repairs if you have an older or simpler vehicle. Mechanics are more likely to be familiar with an older vehicle and its less sophisticated mechanical parts. With an older vehicle, there are fewer parts that can fail, the parts are cheaper, and you are more likely to find multiple sources for the parts you need.

Diesel powered vehicles tend to be simpler and are therefore easier to maintain and repair. Diesels have the additional qualities of burning less fuel and have better more mileage. We recommend diesel vehicles for their economy and for driving in CostaRica.

Electrical and electronic components raise the performance, comfort and reliability of vehicles in general. However, the opposite applies in Costa Rica! Due to the climate and road conditions here, these enhancements are prone to failure. The dust of the dry season, humidity of the wet season, and jarring quality to the roads in general, take a toll. Small, delicate parts are at greater risk. The downside of relying upon sophisticated electronics and electrical parts is not just the greater possibility of failure, but the time and energy it takes to repair or replace the part. In Costa Rica, small, specialized & expensive parts are often not in stock. These parts need to be paid for in advance, and are usually ordered from the country which produced the vehicle.

We experienced an electrical failure when we had the motor on one of our power windows break. Ordering the part from Japan took a month on the fast plane. Meanwhile, we were not able to raise or lower a window. We could not secure the vehicle or protect it from rain or dust.

10. Driving smart makes sense!

We recommend obeying all of the traffic laws of Costa Rica. First, remember that it’s kilometers not miles! The posted speed limits are lower here than in North America or Europe for good reason. The speed limit is not always posted on a road sign. Frequently, speed changes are indicated by painted numbers on the road itself. It is not uncommon while driving in Costa Rica to be stopped by police. Be prepared by having your papers in order and obeying all of the laws. If you were not following the laws, or do not have the proper documents, expect a ticket.

Unattended vehicles should be locked. And never, ever, leave belongings unattended in a vehicle, locked or otherwise - this is an invitation to thieves! One last thing, people routinely get around the back country of Costa Rica by hitch-hiking. We are not recommending you pick up hitch hikers, although we frequently do. We are letting you know it is common practice in a country where not everyone owns a vehicle. We have never had, nor heard of, any problems encountered with hitch hikers. You will need to use your own judgment on this one.

Rick Chalmers, President of Adventure Motors: “Bigger Than Yours!” S.A.,
has over 30 years experience in automotive repair. He is a licensed mechanic and emissions technician. Rick owned and operated an automotive repair business in San Diego, CA for 13 years. He currently lives in Costa Rica and specializes in the importation and modification of specialty off-road vehicles.

Questions or comments? Email: advenmotor@yahoo.com

2006-05-22T23:01:00.000-06:00

Phase VI: Studebaker Conversion: Incidentals, AKA “A Work in Progress”

I won’t mention every detail of every modification and fabrication necessary to complete this project. I will quickly list some of the areas that were also altered to complete the project:

*New custom rear springs
*New rear shocks
*New fuel and brake lines

I also re-used the 4 WD center console out of the Chevy Blazer and wired it up so the shift indicator would operate.

We brought the entire engine management system of the Chevy motor and I built a new fuse block assembly where the old Studebaker heater core used to be. I put the engine computer way up high under the dash and wired it all together so the Studebaker actually has its original wiring and fuse block plus a whole new fuse block for the engine and accessories. After getting the engine running, I installed the air conditioning system and fit all of the hoses. I took the running vehicle to an a/c shop nearby where they crimped the hoses and charged the system.

Timeline from start to current “finish”:

*Research & purchase of a vintage vehicle “wagon” (Rick wanted to accommodate surfboards): Sept. ’04- Dec. ’04. We chose a Studebaker Lark wagon as it was maneuverable and had a great feel to it. Roomy and spacious yet way compact compared to other late 50’s and other 60’s model wagons. Heidi discovered the model she wanted while visiting family in Massachusettes (and test-driving old Chevy wagons that were no fun at all to drive). That Heidi could see over the steering wheel was a helpful factor. “Driving the Lark is a lark!”

*Having the Lark, stock, be drive-able, making small repairs: Dec. ’04-Dec. ‘05

*Decided to make the big leap and do the conversion to anticipate a life in Costa Rica: March ‘05

*4 months of the better part of every week, 2 people to accomplish the conversion thus documented in this Blog: March/Feb. ’05- May/June ’05.

*Late June ’05- The Lark is loaded on a ship bound for Costa Rica

*July ’05- The Lark arrives in Costa Rica

Future projects while in Costa Rica will include:

*Trouble –shooting the air conditioning clutch, which seems to have failed
Installing a temperature switch for automatic coolant fan operation (it is a manual switch currently)

*Re-do the interior door panels, floor carpet and seats-keeping the original look

*Finish the horn contact installation and steering wheel to original look

*Re-working the doors and locks (rebuilding all 4 doors for weather-proofing as well)

*New (retro?) tires

*Stereo installation

We will post photos of these projects in the far future when these points are accomplished. We won’t be working on this until we have our house and Rick’s garage/workshop built on our land in Costa Rica (about 4-5 years out!). But, the Lark totally works great the way she is now. And, driving her in Costa Rica is truly, a Lark!

2006-05-22T22:30:00.000-06:00

Phase V: Studebaker Conversion: Installing the Radiator, Brake Assembly & Steering

Disclaimer: We don’t have pictures of the final construction and installation of the brake vacuum booster, brake master cylinder, and steering column. We apologize!

First of all, this was the hardest part! There was seemingly more head scratching, fabrication, and money spent on these three items than the whole process prior. In truth, there was just more problem-solving and time spent during this phase.

We were re-using the brake hanger assembly and booster out of the Chevy Blazer. We wanted to keep the parts matched to the running gear. Re-using the Studebaker steering column was out of the question. Its installation angle and length did not fit the new configuration and location of the steering gear. We were able to solve the steering shaft by manufacturing a column based on an early ‘70’s Chevy van with automatic steering column. We re-worked the column to fit the Blazer extension shaft on the lower end and accept the Studebaker steering wheel at the top.
The radiator was re-fit but we could not keep the original location of the radiator. We had to move it up and forward to clear the front of the frame. We notched the frame as far as possible to keep the radiator as large as possible. We had a new custom radiator manufactured from the mounting rails and upper and lower tanks of the Studebaker radiator. I went through the selection of radiator hoses at a local Napa auto parts store and purchased two hoses to complete the custom installation. I also installed an electric cooling fan.

2006-05-22T22:13:00.000-06:00

Phase IV: Studebaker Conversion: Fitting the Body to the Frame

After completing the frame grafting, I completely painted the new frame for corrosion protection. We then mounted the drive train into the new frame. We did not have the rear springs yet, so we leveled the chassis using a floor jack for measuring purposes.

I prepared the body by cutting out the spare wheel well. I needed this space for the new gas tank location. We lifted the Studebaker body with a forklift and carefully eased it over the new frame. We lowered the body to the frame and given that we had used 2/3 of the original Studebaker frame, the rear of the body aligned with the original mounting holes of the frame. We located places for the front of the body where we would attach new brackets on the frame to support the body. We pulled the body back off and installed those frame horns.

Back on the body went, and this time, we created clearance to fit the body down to the frame but to leave space for the transfer case. I needed to remove about 1 square foot of the original floor tunnel. After securing the body to the frame, I added new metal to the transmission tunnel and covered the new metal with rubber coating.

Fitting the front clip to the new frame required a bit more work around the very front of the frame. But we accomplished that with new frame horns and a little notching of the Chevy frame.

We test-fitted the front clip and everything looked good so we bolted it all together.

2006-05-21T11:07:00.000-06:00

Phase III Continued: Studebaker Conversion Frame Grafting

We double, triple, and quadruple-checked our dimensions and then we stitched the frame assembly together. We took this time to install the Chevy gas tank (with internal fuel pump) into the Studebaker frame. With minor plating and a rolling of the cut Chevy frame, we ended up with a very strong and trust-worthy frame graft.

Or so, Heidi hoped. Heidi’s interjection: I was always a little nervous about a car that had a huge graft welded together. I pictured driving on the highway and the car coming apart like a cartoon. I never shared this with Rick until now, not wanting to impede their creative process or dampen anyone’s enthusiasm! Of course now, the Lark has been proven trustworthy on the challenging roads of Costa Rica.

2006-05-19T19:01:00.000-06:00

Phase III: Studebaker Conversion Frame Grafting

Herb and I were undecided on where and how to graft these frames. So we chose a conservative method and started whittling away a little off the front of the Studebaker and a little off the rear of the Chevy. For our first cuts, we had left the body on the Studebaker along with datum points, so we could locate the front wheels in the correct location in the wheel wells.

We also were attempting to create more ground clearance under the Studebaker. Not a god-awful amount, but enough to allow the stock Chevy suspension to work as it was designed. A blend of original form and new function was constantly being weighed with each choice we made.

2006-05-19T18:08:00.000-06:00

Phase II: Major Assemblies Freshened
At this juncture, we removed the engine, transmission, and transfer case from the Chevy chassis. I wanted to install reliability in each of these three components. To the engine, we removed the oil pan and checked the rod and main bearings for wear. Everything looked great, so we buttoned the engine back up with new timing chaining gears and tuned up the engine.
We sent the transmission out to a local re-builder and he reported that the transmission looked great. However, we went ahead and installed new all soft parts: clutches, seals, gaskets. We also installed a re-built torque converter.
To the transfer case, we split the transfer case (see photo) and checked the internals. We re-assembled the transfer case with a slip yoke eliminator kit. Additionally, I researched and found a special speedometer drive. So there would be both an electrical signal for the computer and we could drive the original Studebaker speedometer. We were trying to keep anything original, wherever we could. The re-assembled power train was replaced in the chassis.

2006-05-19T16:39:00.000-06:00

Phase I Continued/Forklifting Frames: Here is Herbie (Herb English), forklifting the Studebaker frame, one of many times we used the lift to move the frames as we tried different configurations.

2006-05-19T14:43:00.000-06:00

Modifying an antique 1960 Studebaker Lark station wagon: A New Balance of Form and Function for the roads of Costa Rica

When Heidi and I chose to move to Costa Rica we also had to decide what we were going to do with our 1960 Studebaker Lark wagon. We had owned the car for a year and it was completely stock. We spent a couple of months debating all of the different options we had regarding our transportation needs and the requirements of Costa Rica. We looked at importation issues, the state of the largely unimproved (i.e., unpaved) roads of Costa Rica, money and time issues, and our desires. In the end, we decided, while it was completely ridiculous and unreasonable, we wanted the Studebaker to come with us. She would be a “fair weather” vehicle.
At that point, we determined that to have the Studebaker survive (“fair weather” in Costa Rica is not “fair weather” in San Diego, CA), we would need to install some modern drive train components such as a fuel-injected engine, automatic transmission, disc brakes, power steering, and we thought an a/c would be nice as well. A bonus, if we could have it, would be 4 WD. The dry and wet seasons of Costa Rica each play a unique role in the quality, or lack thereof, of Costa Rica’s roads.
For weeks prior to the actual beginning of the project, I could be seen at night, canvassing the neighborhood of Ocean Beach, San Diego, CA, with a tape measure and a notebook in hand. I looked at Chevys. I looked at Fords. I looked at Toyotas. I found that the track of an early to mid-90’s Chevy Blazer was within ¼ inch of the Studebaker. In addition, it had a full frame that lent itself to a potential conversion. And an added advantage was that it was half the cost of a comparable Toyota- which was up until then, my first choice for a donor vehicle.
I was fortunate to have a friend and former employee, named Herb English, who offered to work with me on this project. He offered work space, time, experience, and labor. Probably most important, he also had a forklift, which we used several times to lift the body on and off the frame for test fits. This entire project, after purchase of a Chevy Blazer, took the better half of every week of our time for 4 months.We purchased a ’91 2-door Chevy Blazer with a 4.3 liter V-6, automatic, 4 WD, and air conditioning. Our first step was to strip the body from the frame off of each vehicle.
We positioned them side by side (see photo below of both rolling chassis). Herb and I spent the better part of an afternoon discussing the myriad possibilities regarding how to perform this graft. We finally deemed it wiser to make a frame graft somewhere between the front suspension and rear tortion bar mount. If you look closely at the photos of the Chevy Blazer’s rolling chassis, you will see that the front suspension utilizes a tortion bar. The rear tortion bar mount is back behind the transfer case. We could either graft that cross-piece into the frame or make the frame graft behind this cross-mount. We decided just to go for it, realizing that we could not anticipate all of the details ahead of time.
As an added bonus, which at first it did not seem like anything positive, we had managed to buy the only Chevy Blazer in San Diego with extensive frame damage to the front, right-hand side. After all of that effort, we were still going to need to buy an extra frame! However, the damaged frame was useful in allowing us to cut and hack frame sections without worry of irreparable damage. By the time we were done hacking on the damaged frame, we were ready to utilize the “new” (junkyard procured) frame, making cuts only where experience showed us we needed to.

2006-05-19T12:15:00.000-06:00

1960 Studebaker Lark, wagon: with 4WD?
This is our 1960 Studebaker Lark, wagon. This is the Lark we drove to Puerto Limon and which served as a distraction during our commando raid! We will be showing you how she went from being a '60 Lark to being a '60 Lark with 4 WD capacity..... Next set of blog posts.... This is a "before" picture, taken in San Diego, CA.

2006-05-14T17:42:00.000-06:00

Commando Raid AKA Getting Unimogs out of Puerto Limon, Costa Rica

Rule #1: It is never as easy as you think.
Postulate #1: I already thought it was going to be difficult.
Result #1: My expectations were met and exceeded.

Following are excerpts from my report on the Unimog extraction mission performed at the port of Limon, Costa Rica on April 19th, 2006. A full report has been submitted to my superiors at headquarters.

Definition of Unimog: A rugged 4wd off-road vehicle built by Mercedes Benz, frequently utilized for military use. These particular target vehicles were Danish Army 416’s, retirees, with low mileage and great maintenance. They were diesel engine trucks, perfect for travel in Costa Rica.

April 19th, 2006

Wednesday, 0300 (3 AM) - First Leg:
I left the Nicoya peninsula in the middle of the night, driving Old Blue, our ’81 Land Cruiser. My first destination was Puntareñas, where I was to meet Jimmy and two hired drivers. Our plan was for all of us to pile into the Studebaker Lark wagon, making the trip in style, across country. The trip to Puntareñas was uneventful. I arrived to my destination point early and in time to enjoy desayuno (breakfast) at a Soda (small restaurant) which had just opened.

Wednesday, 0630 - Unit Formation:
Met Jimmy and the two drivers (Don Hidalgo y Adrian) at Claymore Self-Storage/Bodegas (where we have our Lark stored and Jimmy works). Jimmy had prepared the Studebaker the day before and she was looking sweet and ready to roll! Swapped Old Blue for the Studebaker. We all shook hands, piled into the Lark, and were off. Or so I thought….

Oh- did I mention that Jimmy belongs to Costa Rica Full Carry- and is of the persuasion that owning and carrying firearms is a Costa Rican right? We were equipped with a fully loaded .38 firearm safely tucked under my front passenger seat position in the Lark. It may have been her first intimate contact with a firearm.

0700 –0 745 AM - False Start:
Traffic was heavy this first 30 minutes, going up the hill to rim above the capitol of Costa Rica, San Jose. We worked our way up into thick traffic and were nearing the top, and suddenly Jimmy cursed and shouted, realizing he’d left the Studebaker registration documents at the bodega. We took a vote, Jimmy definitely wanted to go back, I was for just going for it, and the two drivers didn’t really care either way. But you have to know about Costa Rican law and bureaucracy. They are sticklers for the correct paperwork. Jimmy was right. If we had not gotten the papers, we’d have been stopped and ticketed. It’s not uncommon here. Keep this point in mind as our Blog progresses.

0745-0830 - Retreat:
Drive back to the bodega for the papers.

0830-1030 - Second Leg:
Re-departure, with papers. Traffic was a lot heavier this time. We inched our way up the hill. Made it into San Jose safe and sound, not having been stopped, of course. We drove into La Uruca (an area outside of San Jose).

1030 – First Casualty:
We stopped here to gas up and to check the Lark’s fluid levels. It was a warm humid day and everyone got out for a soda. I went around front and lifted her hood and proceeded to give her a visual inspection. I wanted to check the coolant level. But I was worried because the engine was hot. As you probably know, it is very dangerous to check an automobile cooling system when it is hot and under pressure. I squeezed the upper radiator hose to test for cooling system pressure. It didn’t appear to have too much pressure. Thinking of safety, I had installed a lever vent radiator cap. I lifted the lever vent, and no pressure escaped. Having checked the hose, feeling no pressure, and lifting the lever vent, I concluded there was no pressure. I went straight to opening the radiator cap. I promptly copped a face full of hot, scalding coolant. Imagine my surprise! I stood there and replayed the whole scenario and what had happened. I was astounded I let myself get burned like this. It started to hurt immediately. I rinsed the coolant off with water and I couldn’t tell yet the area of the burn exactly. Just that it was around my face, nose, and mouth. I re-inspected the lever vent and there was my answer. The lever vent device had failed! While there was not excessive pressure in the cooling system, there was enough for me to burn myself. For the rest of the mainly hot, humid and uncomfortable trip I was constantly aware of my burned, throbbing face. The only time I didn’t think about when I was engaged in conversation with others.

1100 - Mission is “a Go”
We all re-loaded back in the car. Next stop: Puerto Limon on the Atlantic coast of Costa Rica. Keep in mind I started from the Pacific coast at 3 AM. Before leaving, I called our attorney’s office for Adventure Motors and he confirmed that we were “all clear” to pick up the Unimogs- for paperwork, etceteras.

1100-1300 - Crossing High Lands and Low Lands
The drive to the Caribbean/Atlantic coast passes through an amazing forest reserve. We climbed the mountains out of San Jose and it was cool and breezy and had amazing views of the jungle, different flora and fauna in that region. After passing through the forest reserve, we drove a down grade of miles and miles. We finally hit the flatlands where we entered into gigantic banana plantations. It was a long, uneventful stretch through the flatlands. We all passed into our own contemplative states, and not much was said for at least an hour. I thought of my face.

1300 - Mission Thwarted
We arrived in Puerto Limon, hungry. We asked for a few directions and found our way to the Caribbean coast. It was hot and muggy in Limon. Parked the car outside of a nice restaurant. I had Jimmy park it where I could keep an eye on during lunch, as it doesn’t have locks, and is an eye-catcher here. We had been told that this restaurant was one of the best in town. Whoever told us that was half-right. When we were finally served, the food was great. The service left a lot to be desired. Up to now, the boys and I were feeling great. We had powered all the way across country and just had a very satisfying lunch. And we were excited to pick up these Unimogs and head on home.

While finishing lunch, I received a call from our attorney. Everything was great until he called. What he said to me was:

“Rick, I’m sorry to inform you that there is a problem. The customs workers at the port have been operating a work ‘slow down’ for the past three or four days. They are complaining about their pay. I have just heard a report that there has been rock throwing. Police and riot teams are responding. It is completely unsafe and you cannot pick up your trucks today. I’m sorry, it’s not your fault, it’s not my fault, but it is something that can’t be helped. I’ll call you when you are able to pick the trucks up, but it won’t be today.”

Well, imagine my disappointment! We were basically dealing with an aggressive pre-strike situation. Jimmy and I talked it over, and we were both of the same idea: that we should not give up on this. Heck, I had hired these guys, driven across the country, and got myself burnt! I was hot, sore, and fatigued. I did not want to go home empty-handed. So we made up a plan. We decided if we could just go to SEE the trucks that would be something. I wanted to see what they looked like, check their condition after shipping from Germany, check the fluid levels, kick the tires, you know… and maybe, just maybe, steal them out of their prison.

1430 - Commence Operation Commando Raid
The attorney had informed us that the trucks had actually arrived in the port of Moin, a few minutes from Puerto Limon. It is a port with facilities for accommodating larger ships, like the one which had brought the Unimogs. We took the coastal road from the restaurant. And wound our way north and east towards the port. We topped a hill and there below us on the ocean side, to our right, was the port facility. It was big, barren, with very little activity, and completely surrounded by a 10 foot chain-link fence with razor ribbon topping. We continued along the road, which was also along the fence line. Up ahead appeared the entry, and we re-formulated our plan amongst ourselves. Jimmy rechecked his firearm. As we pulled up to the guard shacks, it was obvious that there was something happening. There was very little traffic and numerous armed guards at the shack. Jimmy spoke briefly with one of the guards who was armed with an automatic rifle. He said the right things and we gained passage. Over to our left, we spotted our targets (see photo of: Orange, Yellow, and White Unimogs).

1500- Full Out Action:
In the next few minutes, things happened very fast. We drove to where the Unimogs were. The trucks were being completely swarmed over by people I didn’t know. The truck doors were all open, one of the engines was running, and people were standing around them, looking at them and climbing in and out of them. I couldn’t tell who was friend or foe. I picked out two guys; one looked like an attorney, or legal type. I quickly determined that this was my man, my customs broker: Rolando. The other guy was the customs authority. As it turns out, all of the other guys were also customs authorities of different ranks. In quick order, we had to get the trucks out with all due haste. Rolando told us: “Get the trucks out, right away.”

All of the customs fees had been paid and all of the paperwork completed. Some of the customs authorities were saying the trucks were not ready to leave. This was their method of enacting their slow down. They wanted to thwart our operation for their own objective: POLITICS! In addition, two of the trucks were missing keys! The port officials had misplaced the keys. That’s why only one engine was running! I got Jimmy into the one that was running, the White truck, and had him go drive it, to learn how to shift it (these particular Unimog 416’s have numerous shift levers for different operations. Also they have 4 reverse gears and 8 forward gears).

I started working on the possibility of hot-wiring the other two, keeping an eye on the Studebaker, which was currently drawing a crowd. Good distraction. It seemed like only a few moments had gone by, when Rolando approached me with a worried look on his face and told me: “You have to get these trucks out Now, Now, Now!” Some authorities were telling us we couldn’t go, while Rolando was saying we were clear. There was no time. I had to move quickly against the wishes of some of the authorities to accommodate Rolando, the authority who was in agreement with our objective. I flagged down Jimmy, who was thoroughly enjoying himself, doing donuts in the port parking lot. I told him to drive the White truck out immediately. He proceeded with trepidation, to the gate, while I went back to the other trucks. No need for the .38 yet.

The head port authority guy appeared with one more key for me. He was on our side! I tried it in the Yellow truck, but the key would not turn the ignition. I hopped out with the key, ran to the Orange truck, and voila! One more truck running! I put one of the other drivers into Orange and sent him out, hoping he’d make it through the gate, as had Jimmy just moments earlier. I went back to Yellow, again, investigating what it would take to hot wire it. All around Yellow, there were four of the customs authorities; all trying to make it very clear to me that the truck would not be leaving. By the way, this is all in Spanish, which I am learning. Luckily however, I am trained to read body language and intonation. I replied with a practiced “no comprendo”. I looked up, and saw that the two trucks which had made it to freedom were doing donuts outside of the compound. Still, I needed a solution for getting Yellow out of there, and I needed it fast!

1530 - No Man Left Behind!
I shouted out for Jimmy, to have the third driver bring me Orange’s key and pass it through the security fence. I was going to make this key fit. I had no diagnostic tools, no information, nothing for the purpose of hotwiring this thing. That other truck’s key was my only chance. The clock had stopped ticking by this point. Remember, the first time I tried this key on Yellow, it did not work. And, all around me was pandemonium! There were men blocking my every move, trying to tell me I couldn’t take the truck out of the compound. Jimmy trotted over with the only key we had. I faked a man with a false start to the left and went to the right and met Jimmy at the fence. White has something different, it’s not really a key, it’s a military ignition switch and it would not work with either Yellow or Orange. It had to be THIS KEY-as it was the ONLY KEY. I glanced at the Lark and formulated a plan to sprint to the car, if needed, for escape or protection.
I went back to Yellow with the intention to drive the sucker out of there. I put the key in, pressed, shook, wiggled, and by gosh, it finally turned! I got it running, dropped it into reverse to back it out, careful to not make eye contact with the customs authorities surrounding the truck. I backed it out of the spot and headed for the gate. So far, so good. Two down and just one to go! This time it was my turn to drive a truck through an armed and guarded gate. Jimmy had come back in and was covering my back with the Lark, by driving right on my tail. Unlike the customs authorities, the heavily armed gate guards took a cursory look at my papers and waved me on. I was through! I pulled the truck forward and parked it next to the other two.

1545 - Mission Accomplished
With all three trucks outside the compound fence I thought we were home free. The four of us were standing around, admiring the trucks and congratulating ourselves on having escaped the customs compound without major incident. As we were standing there, Rolando, our customs broker, jogged over from the compound. And he told us, in no uncertain terms, “You have to get out of sight and away from, the customs compound, fast!”

Quickly, I scanned the compound. There were no immediate threats. No guns pointed at us, no men running our direction. We all hopped into our respective vehicles, Jimmy took the Lark and the rest of us took the Unimogs and we headed to nearest gas station as a convoy. How did we do this with only 2 keys (one military key, one regular key- three trucks)? We found out that while Orange was running, we could pull the key out and keep driving it. With that find, we made our way to the gas station. We checked fluid levels while Jimmy got a copy of the key made. We made it, with not a moment or key to spare!

Our trip home was not uneventful, but after having made it out of the commando raid alive and getting trucks out of customs when it looked like it was going to be impossible, the events on the homeward journey were tame by comparison. Again, a full report to head quarters is on file. For this abbreviated record, no shots were fired and there was only one casualty.

2006-05-09T11:46:00.000-06:00

Welcome to the Adventure Motors:

"Bigger than Yours!"

Blog

We are proud to be Costa Rica's supplier of specialty off-road vehicles. This blog will have stories from the company's President, Rick Chalmers, stories and accompanying photos of projects, including vehicle modifications, and client testimonials.