tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-256080052009-06-10T09:18:51.788+08:00My Electronics HobbyMy small collection of electronic hobby information.leorickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12860324908477273661noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25608005.post-30752186608050336032008-12-23T21:00:00.012+08:002008-12-23T21:23:42.990+08:00Fixing a Mouse Double Click ProblemsHave you ever experience a bad optical mouse? It went double click action whenever you did a single click action? At first, I try to Google for answer but none of them help. I’ve tried every combination of settings but the problem doesn’t go away. I really suspected there must be something wrong with the circuit. After I made a conclusion that it is a mechanical related issue (maybe the switch it self), I replace the switch from an old mouse available.
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YbD_csZtad8/SVDiLlXJmxI/AAAAAAAAALM/-VJMF687aus/s1600-h/new_switch.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YbD_csZtad8/SVDiLlXJmxI/AAAAAAAAALM/-VJMF687aus/s200/new_switch.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282971051541240594" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YbD_csZtad8/SVDjLWEGFDI/AAAAAAAAALk/U3I8b3wxplA/s1600-h/sw_installed.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YbD_csZtad8/SVDjLWEGFDI/AAAAAAAAALk/U3I8b3wxplA/s200/sw_installed.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282972146946413618" /></a>
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Unfortunately the problem is still there. This is dangerous since you might drag a folder by accident and move it into another folder. This problem always happening to a first time touch-pad user with tapping function turned on.
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YbD_csZtad8/SVDijGCotqI/AAAAAAAAALU/taKksT2XjWM/s1600-h/dsldr_cap.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_YbD_csZtad8/SVDijGCotqI/AAAAAAAAALU/taKksT2XjWM/s200/dsldr_cap.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282971455450560162" border="0" /></a>
<br />
So next I’m thinking it maybe related to a noise in the circuit. So without any calculation, I try to salvage a capacitor that l can find from an old circuit board and solder it parallel to the switch.
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YbD_csZtad8/SVDiy0_Qa3I/AAAAAAAAALc/ArtALREtq2E/s1600-h/cap_installed.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_YbD_csZtad8/SVDiy0_Qa3I/AAAAAAAAALc/ArtALREtq2E/s200/cap_installed.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282971725750889330" border="0" /></a>
<br />
:-) Now it become “click and hold” for about 10 seconds. The capacitor value that I used to smooth the noise from the circuit is too big causing it to simulate “click and hold”. After measuring the capacitance it shows about 2µF. Too big maybe.
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YbD_csZtad8/SVDjchMbwUI/AAAAAAAAALs/tn_ZXINgAyM/s1600-h/under_testing.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YbD_csZtad8/SVDjchMbwUI/AAAAAAAAALs/tn_ZXINgAyM/s200/under_testing.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282972441991954754" /></a>
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Next I try to find a capacitor with quite smaller capacitance value (~2nF). Maybe this will do. So I just replace it.
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<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YbD_csZtad8/SVDjckAIlCI/AAAAAAAAAL0/Injy4aRxJMc/s1600-h/re_assembld.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_YbD_csZtad8/SVDjckAIlCI/AAAAAAAAAL0/Injy4aRxJMc/s200/re_assembld.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5282972442745672738" /></a>
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Walla! At last like a brand new mouse looks and feel. Good luck.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25608005-3075218660805033603?l=leoricksimon.blogspot.com'/></div>leorickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12860324908477273661noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25608005.post-37958416943524754292007-05-21T21:04:00.000+08:002007-10-13T01:06:01.619+08:00555 Timer-Based Flyback Transformer Driver<object width="425" height="350">
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<br />
My 24kV high voltage "Jacob's Ladder" from DIY flyback transformer driver using 555 timer.
<h3>Creating an electric arc</h3>
I've always wanted to create an electric arc but don't know how.
Then I come across the theory that air breaks down at about 1MV/m (Mega Volts per meter) (24kV/in).
That mean you need 1kV in order to get 1mm arc. So you need a higher voltage.
One of the method is to use a flyback transformer that can be found from an old TV or an old CRT PC monitor.
It could generate about 10 to 30 kV. Other method is to create a "tesla coil" which is quite complicated.
Maybe it will become my next project.
<h3>Flyback transformer and preparation</h3>
Flybacks can be found in all types of monitors and screens that use a cathode ray tube (CRT),
e.g. TV sets, computer monitors etc. It has a big red cable with a suction cup.
It looks something like below.
<br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/flyback_pic_01.jpg" target="_blank" title="Flyback Transformer">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_flyback_pic_01.jpg" alt="Flyback Transformer" border="0" />
</a>
<br />
Next, you need to identify the primary and secondary pin out.
Thanks to "<a href="http://jlnlabs.imars.com/lifters/labhvps/tht.htm" title="Lab HV-PS page">Lab HV-PS page</a>"
for providing an instruction on how to find the pinout.
The main HV out on the secondary coil is a big red cable with a suction cup.
Now we need to find the 0V pinout for the secondary coil.
The trick is to use a DC power supply. This is because the flyback secondary coil resistance is much too high.
There is no way you could find it with ordinary digital multimeter.
<br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/sec_coil_ohm_02.jpg" target="_blank" title="Flyback Transformer Secondary Coil">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_sec_coil_ohm_02.jpg" alt="Flyback Transformer Secondary Coil" border="0" />
</a>
<br />
So use your own understanding on the circuit below to find the 0V pinout.
Give it about 12V and your meter should show some volts when you find the 0V pinout.
For me, just to be safe, try to find a datasheet of the flyback transformer or
try to find the TV or old CRT PC monitor service manual/schematics diagram to find the pinout like below.
Most modern flybacks include built-in HV rectifier diode(s) and/or
voltage multiplier (tripler) so output without additional components
will be high voltage positive or somewhat smoothed HV DC.
So, make sure your polarity is correct.
<br />
<img src="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/find_hv_gnd.gif" alt="How To Find Flyback Transformer Secondary Coil 0V Pinout" border="0" />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/sec_coil_ohm_03.jpg" target="_blank" title="How To Find Flyback Transformer Secondary Coil 0V Pinout">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_sec_coil_ohm_03.jpg" alt="How To Find Flyback Transformer Secondary Coil 0V Pinout" border="0" />
</a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/flyback_pinout.gif" target="_blank" title="Flyback Transformer Diagram">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_flyback_pinout.gif" alt="Flyback Transformer Diagram" border="0" />
</a>
<br />
Unless you have one of these multimeter, you should get the resistance reading out of it.
From my FLUKE 189 multimeter you can see that it shows more than a hundred Mega Ohm.
That is why ordinary meter could not measure it because of it's limit.
Below I test two types of flybacks with 112 Mega Ohm and the other about 522 Mega Ohm.
Again, polarity is critical to get the reading.
<br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/sec_coil_ohm_01.jpg" target="_blank" title="Flyback Transformer Secondary Coil Resistance">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_sec_coil_ohm_01.jpg" alt="Flyback Transformer Secondary Coil Resistance" border="0" />
</a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/sec_coil_ohm_04.jpg" target="_blank" title="Flyback Transformer Secondary Coil Resistance">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_sec_coil_ohm_04.jpg" alt="Flyback Transformer Secondary Coil Resistance" border="0" />
</a>
<br />
To find the primary coil is a much simple than the secondary coil.
The primary coil resistance is about 1 ohm and again I confirm this with
a TV or old CRT PC monitor service manual/schematics diagram. In my case I could only get 0.45 ohm.
<br />
<img src="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/find_pri_pin.gif" alt="Flyback Transformer Primary Coil" border="0" />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/pri_coil_ohm_01.jpg" target="_blank" title="Flyback Transformer Primary Coil">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_pri_coil_ohm_01.jpg" alt="Flyback Transformer Primary Coil" border="0" />
</a>
<br />
<h3>Creating the flyback driver (20kHz with 90% duty cycle)</h3>
Thanks to "<a href="http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/misc/016/index.html" title="Jonathan Filippi">Jonathan Filippi</a>"
for the idea. My circuit is quite different.
I try to fix up the frequency and duty cycle with help from simulation software.
I use "Electronic Workbench" to simulate the circuit which can generate about 20kHz with 90% duty cycle
and I come out with this.
Using 555 timer to generate 20kHz with 90% <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duty_cycle" title="Duty Cycle on WIKI">duty cycle</a>.
Next I try to put it on the breadboard and test the output from it.
I get about 18kHz with 85% duty cycle.
Jonathan Filippi is using 2N3904 and 2N3906 but I'm using c1815 (npn) and a1015 (pnp).
I found out that you can use any multipurpose transistor and I could find it on my old TV board.
For the MOSFET, Jonathan Filippi is using IRF840 but I'm using IRF630.
You may try to find it's equivalent and experiment with it.
Just make sure it is compatible if you want to use other types of MOSFETs.
Find it's data sheet and compare the characteristic for both types of components.
<br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/schematic.gif" target="_blank" title="Flyback Transformer Driver With 555 Timer Schematic">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_schematic.gif" alt="Flyback Transformer Driver With 555 Timer Schematic" border="0" />
</a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/bboard_18khz_02.jpg" target="_blank" title="Flyback Transformer Driver In Breadboard">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_bboard_18khz_02.jpg" alt="Flyback Transformer Driver In Breadboard" border="0" />
</a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/bboard_18khz_01.jpg" target="_blank" title="Flyback Transformer Driver In Breadboard">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_bboard_18khz_01.jpg" alt="Flyback Transformer Driver In Breadboard" border="0" />
</a>
<br />
Before assemble it, I test this circuit with a small transformer which I can find it on the same old TV board.
Since I'm getting too excited, the quick test is to connect the output to the lowest resistance coil.
I test it with a limit resistor and surprise, I can get a hundred volt out of that.
<br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/bboard_100v_01.jpg" target="_blank" title="Flyback Transformer Driver Generates 100V">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_bboard_100v_01.jpg" alt="Flyback Transformer Driver Generates 100V" border="0" />
</a>
<br />
Next is to plan to transfer it to the stripboard/veroboard.
Here is the stripboard layout and the assembled circuit board.
Make sure you mount the MOSFET to a heat sink since it going to heat up while running/powering it up.
Note that I put the 150 ohm "snubber" resistor and diode near the flyback.
This is to suppress ("snub") electrical transients that might damage of the circuit.
<br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/cb-1.gif" title="Flyback Transformer Driver Stripboard Layout" target="_blank">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_cb-1.gif" alt="Flyback Transformer Driver Stripboard Layout" border="0" />
</a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/vboard_none_01.jpg" title="Flyback Transformer Driver On Stripboard" target="_blank">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_vboard_none_01.jpg" alt="Flyback Transformer Driver On Stripboard" border="0" />
</a>
<br />
Again, I test the assembled circuit board with the same small transformer and I could get a neon to light up.
This mean I'm getting about hundred volts.
Neon needs about 80V or higher in order to light up.
<br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/vboard_100v_01.jpg" target="_blank" title="Flyback Transformer Driver Generates 100V">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_vboard_100v_01.jpg" alt="Flyback Transformer Driver Generates 100V" border="0" />
</a>
<br />
<h3>Test it out</h3>
Now it time to test it out.
Get a high power supply for this test.
Don't use an expensive lab power supply for this test.
It might burn or damage. For me, I'm using a 12V DC battery charger that can give about 5 Amps.
You may also try a car battery if you have one.
<br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/test_setup_01.jpg" target="_blank" title="Flyback Transformer Driver Test Setup">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_test_setup_01.jpg" alt="Flyback Transformer Driver Test Setup" border="0" />
</a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/test_setup_02.jpg" target="_blank" title="Flyback Transformer Driver Test Setup">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_test_setup_02.jpg" alt="Flyback Transformer Driver Test Setup" border="0" />
</a>
<br />
There is an arc!. At last, I could get an arc out of it.
I try to measure the initial max. length and I could get about 24mm.
Thus, it is about 24kV. Remember the theory 1MV/m?.
<br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/spark_01.jpg" target="_blank" title="Flyback Arcs">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_spark_01.jpg" alt="Flyback Arcs" border="0" />
</a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/spark_02.jpg" target="_blank" title="Flyback Arcs">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_spark_02.jpg" alt="Flyback Arcs" border="0" />
</a>
<br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/spark_03.jpg" target="_blank" title="Flyback Arcs">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_spark_03.jpg" alt="Flyback Arcs" border="0" />
</a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/spark_04.jpg" target="_blank" title="Flyback Arcs">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_spark_04.jpg" alt="Flyback Arcs" border="0" />
</a>
<br />
I measure the DC operating current. It is about 5 Amps.
I've blown my DC power supply fuse in the process.
Maybe I need a bigger power supply :-) .
At least I've got some arcs.
<br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/broken_fuse_01.jpg" target="_blank" title="My Blown Fuse">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_broken_fuse_01.jpg" alt="My Blown Fuse" border="0" />
</a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/dc_current_01.jpg" target="_blank" title="Flyback Transformer Driver DC Current">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_dc_current_01.jpg" alt="Flyback Transformer Driver DC Current" border="0" />
</a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/dc_current_02.jpg" target="_blank" title="Flyback Transformer Driver DC Current">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_dc_current_02.jpg" alt="Flyback Transformer Driver DC Current" border="0" />
</a>
<br />
<h3>Good luck!</h3><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25608005-3795841694352475429?l=leoricksimon.blogspot.com'/></div>leorickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12860324908477273661noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25608005.post-46150757883776562972007-04-06T20:55:00.000+08:002007-04-06T20:57:58.883+08:00Simplest Intercom<img src="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/schematics.gif" alt="Simplest Intercom Ever" border="0" />
<h3>Using old phones</h3>
Using your old phones, you could create personal "micro" telephone exchange as simple as above circuit.
I manage to solder the test circuit less than a minute. Than connect the phone and test it.
It works. So why 39 ohm?
From <a href="http://www.epanorama.net/documents/telecom/telephone_intercom.html" target="_blank" title="Epanorama Dot Net">
Epanorama Dot Net</a>,
the correct value of the resistor should be a resistor that can limit the circuit current around 30mA total loop.
The method is by replacing the resistor in the circuit with a variable resistor, plug in the phones, apply power and tune the current
with the variable resistor so the current flow is 30mA.
After that take out the variable resistor and measure the resistance/ohm across it.
Find the fixed resistor with the nearest ohm reading to it and replace it to the circuit.<br />
<h3>Simplest Circuit</h3>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/wiring.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_wiring.jpg" alt="Simplest Intercom Circuit Ever" border="0" /></a>
<h3>Testing In Progress</h3>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/telephone_test.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_telephone_test.jpg" alt="Simplest Intercom Testing In Progress" border="0" /></a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25608005-4615075788377656297?l=leoricksimon.blogspot.com'/></div>leorickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12860324908477273661noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25608005.post-53048486119992611482007-03-25T01:23:00.000+08:002007-03-25T01:24:26.074+08:00Simple Cable Tester<h3>Simple DIY Cable Continuity Tester</h3>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/assy.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_assy.gif" alt="Assembly of simple DIY cable tester" border="0" /></a><br />
<h3>How to use</h3>
<p>
This simple cable tester can be used to check 2 wire cable such as coax cable, telephone cable, audio cable and etc.
Power the circuit using 9V battery.
Plug in the cable and push "TEST" button.
The dummy resistor is connected to the end of the cable which has 75ohm resistor inside.
The tester will show only 3 conditions, "SHORT", "OPEN" and "GOOD".
</p>
<br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/cable_checker_cct.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_cable_checker_cct.gif" alt="Simple DIY cable tester circuit" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/4011.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_4011.gif" alt="CMOS NAND 4011" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/4558.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_4558.gif" alt="Op-Amp packaging" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/4558.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_4558.png" alt="Op-Amp Pinout" border="0" /></a>
<h3>How it works</h3>
<p>
The method is to check resistance of the dummy resistor at the "Terminator".
The idea is simple.
Imagine there is a short circuit cable under testing.
The wire will act as nearly zero ohm resistor thus making the voltage divider near the dummy resistor to divide the 9V into 4.5V.
Calculate it your self [ ( 1k / ( 1k + 1k ) ) * 9V = 4.5V ].
4.5V is below than the lower "Comparator" limit (Vref 4.57V).
It will trigger the lower "Comparator" and make "Short" LED to light up.
Now for the open circuit cable.
Assuming the open circuit cable has an infinite ohm.
Voltage divider near the dummy resistor will give 9V.
This is more than the upper "Comparator" limit (VRef 4.8V) and will trigger make "Open" LED light up.
Other than that (both lower and upper "Comparator" didn't trigger) the "GOOD" LED will light up.
For the op-amp, I'm using JRC4558 dual op-amp since I have it in my stock.
You may use 741 op-amp or other multi-purpose op-amp.
<a href="http://www.ibiblio.org/kuphaldt/electricCircuits/Semi/SEMI_8.html" target="_blank" title="Learn more about op-amp here">Learn more about op-amp here</a>
</p>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/180px-PCB_variable_resistors.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_180px-PCB_variable_resistors.jpg" alt="Potentiometer Example" border="0" /></a>
<h3>Vref tuning</h3>
<p>
Before turning on the circuit (power it up),
tune the potentiometer so that it will give the correct voltage reference to the "Comparator"s.<br />
<ul>
<li>Upper "Comparator" = 4.8V</li>
<li>Lower "Comparator" = 4.57V</li>
</ul>
</p>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/batt_low_ind.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_batt_low_ind.gif" alt="Low Battery Indicator Circuit" border="0" /></a>
<h3>Extra - Low battery indicator</h3>
<p>
The extra circuit supplied is to check the battery condition.
Low battery voltage (below than ~6.9V) will show "RED" light up.
Else will show "GREEN" LED light up.
The basic, if there is a small amount of current go through the zener (reverse bias),
the first transistor (left) will be turned on making the "GREEN" LED turn on.
Other than that the second transistor (right) will be turned on and "RED" LED will light up.
</p>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/buzzer.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_buzzer.gif" alt="Adding buzzer to the circuit" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/buzzer.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_buzzer.jpg" border="0" /></a>
<h3>Modification - Add in buzzer</h3>
<p>
You add in buzzer to the circuit to make it give an audible alarm.
The best is to alert us whenever the cable under test is not "GOOD".
So, adding a resistor, transistor and a buzzer/beeper to the last NAND (near "GOOD" LED) will do the job.
Use your own creativity for this. :-).
</p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25608005-5304848611999261148?l=leoricksimon.blogspot.com'/></div>leorickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12860324908477273661noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25608005.post-10543083936202685702007-02-26T00:14:00.000+08:002007-02-26T18:42:39.755+08:00Upgrading DivX Player Firmware<h3>Upgrading DivX Player Firmware</h3>
<p>
Planning to upgrade your DivX player using CD? Good idea but if anything happen, your player will be dead.
In order to revive it, you need to re-flash it.
<br /><br />
Refer here for more information about re-flashing your DivX player.<br />
<a href="http://mtz.softpedia.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=20&Itemid=2" target="_blank" title="Upgrading a dead player">
Upgrading a dead player - By DivXpert.
</a>
<br /><br />
You can download some recommended softwares from their site and try it out.
Now the fun part, you need a hardware interface from your computer to the player.
Recommended hardware interface by DivXpert is standard Serial Data Cable for mobile phone.
So I built one.
</p>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/mtk_board.jpg"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_mtk_board.jpg" alt="Open up your DivX Player" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/upgrage_interface.jpg"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_upgrage_interface.jpg" alt="The DivX Player upgrade port" border="0" /></a>
<h3>Identifying The Upgrade Port</h3>
<ul>
<li>Open up your player and find the main PCB & the upgrade port.</li>
<li>Most of them have 4 pins [3.3V],[TX],[RX],[GND].</li>
<li>Find the label for each pin under the PCB.</li>
</ul>
<br /><br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/install_conn.jpg"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_install_conn.jpg" alt="Install male connector to the main DivX player board" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/male_conn.jpg"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_male_conn.jpg" alt="Old sound card CD audio input connector" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/match_conn.jpg"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_match_conn.jpg" alt="male and female conector" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/take_out_conn.jpg"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_take_out_conn.jpg" alt="Take out the male connector" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/what_you_need.jpg"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_what_you_need.jpg" alt="Collect some old parts" border="0" /></a>
<h3>What You Need</h3>
<ul>
<li>
I found out that the male audio input connector from the old sound card
is suitable for the upgrade port. Use it if you have one.
</li>
<li>Old mouse cable match the female connector to this type of connector.</li>
<li>Find a cheap mobile serial data cable/ I'm using Nokia 3210 data cable.</li>
</ul>
<br /><br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/connect_to_board.jpg"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_connect_to_board.jpg" alt="Connet it to DivX Main PCB" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/data_cable.jpg"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_data_cable.jpg" alt="Female mouse connector and mobile data cable (phone end)" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/join_conn.jpg"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_join_conn.jpg" alt="Joining together the cable" border="0" /></a>
<h3>Install & Join It Together</h3>
<ul>
<li>Open the data cable (phone end connector)</li>
<li>Join it with the female mouse connector.</li>
<li>Plug it into the player PCB and you are ready.</li>
<li>
Refer
"<a href="http://mtz.softpedia.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=20&Itemid=2" target="_blank" title="Upgrading a dead player">
Upgrading a dead player - By DivXpert.
</a>"
for detail.
</li>
</ul>
<br /><br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/conn_5v.jpg"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_conn_5v.jpg" alt="External 5V From Power Board" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/using_max232b.jpg"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_using_max232b.jpg" alt="Using MAX232" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/max232.jpg"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_max232.jpg" alt="MAX232 5V" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://www.dvdboard.de/forum/showthread.php?threadid=73773"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_INTERFACE-MT1389.jpg" alt="http://www.dvdboard.de/forum/showthread.php?threadid=73773" border="0" /></a>
<h3>My Other Version of Cable</h3>
<ul>
<li>Another option is to find MAX232 chip from maxim.</li>
<li>
<a href="http://www.dvdboard.de/forum/showthread.php?threadid=73773" target="_blank" title="Using MAX3232">
Better if you have MAX3232 since this chip is using 3.3V
</a>
</li>
<li>I'm using normal MAX232 (5V) since I don't have one.</li>
<li>Because of that, I need to connect the power of the MAX232 chip to the player +5V port</li>
</ul>
<br /><br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/mtktool.jpg"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_mtktool.jpg" alt="MTKTool by DivXpert" border="0" /></a>
<h3>After that?</h3>
<p>
Please refer to
"<a href="http://mtz.softpedia.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=20&Itemid=2" target="_blank" title="Upgrading a dead player">
Upgrading a dead player - By DivXpert.
</a>"
for the software usage on how to upgrade.
They provide the latest firmware for your Player.
</p>
<h3>Good Luck</h3><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25608005-1054308393620268570?l=leoricksimon.blogspot.com'/></div>leorickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12860324908477273661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25608005.post-1166870888525206512006-12-23T18:45:00.000+08:002007-01-23T02:56:39.123+08:00Biquad ant. for WLAN<h3>Biquad Antenna for 2.4 GHz - 802.11b/g - WiFi - WLAN</h3>
<p>After some research, I found out that the simplest type of
homemade WLAN antenna is BiQuad antenna. Many sites provide good
instruction on how to assemble it.<br />
(refer below)</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://martybugs.net/wireless/biquad/" title=
"Biquad Antenna Construction" target="_blank">Biquad Antenna
Construction</a></li>
<li><a href="http://flakey.info/antenna/biquad/" title=
"Biquad Sector antenna for 2.4 GHz" target="_blank">Biquad Sector
antenna for 2.4 GHz</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.sorgonet.com/network/biquad/" target=
"_blank" title=
"Building a biquad antenna for wireless 802.11b">Building a biquad
antenna for wireless 802.11b</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.trevormarshall.com/biquad.htm" title=
"Trevor Marshall BiQuad 802.11b Antenna">Trevor Marshall BiQuad
802.11b Antenna</a> [My favorite]</li>
</ul>
I'm not going to repeat it.
<h3>My Antenna</h3>
<p>So I start by recycling some parts that I found in my workshop
and construct it.<br />
<a href=
"http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/twister.jpg"
target="_blank"><img src=
"http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_twister.jpg"
alt="Twister Can" border="0" /></a> <a href=
"http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/connector.jpg"
target="_blank"><img src=
"http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_connector.jpg"
alt="SMA Connector" border="0" /></a><br />
I took about 10-20 min. for me to finished it.<br />
<a href=
"http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/element.gif"
target="_blank" title="BiQuad Element"><img src=
"http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_element.gif"
alt="BiQuad Element" border="0" /></a><br />
The critical process is to make the element.<br />
With proper method and dimension this thing will work.<br />
<a href=
"http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/antenna1.jpg"
target="_blank"><img src=
"http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_antenna1.jpg"
alt="BiQuad Antenna attached to DLink AP" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/antenna2.jpg"
target="_blank"><img src=
"http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_antenna2.jpg"
alt="BiQuad Antenna attached to DLink AP" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/antenna3.jpg"
target="_blank"><img src=
"http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_antenna3.jpg"
alt="BiQuad Antenna attached to DLink AP" border="0" /></a></p>
<h3>Good Luck!!!</h3><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25608005-116687088852520651?l=leoricksimon.blogspot.com'/></div>leorickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12860324908477273661noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25608005.post-1154605033614674582006-08-03T19:35:00.000+08:002006-11-01T07:40:26.636+08:00ATX PSU Diagnose<h3>About ATX Power Supply</h3>
<p>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/about.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_about.jpg" alt="ATX Power Supply" border="0" /></a>
<br />
ATX Power Supply converts the wall (AC) to the direct current (DC) needed by the
PC. The power supply looks like a metal box with fan.
Typical computer power supply generates the voltages needed by the computer motherboard accessories.
[<a href="http://computer.howstuffworks.com/power-supply.htm" target="_blank" title="computer.howstuffworks.com">Read more...</a>]
</p>
<h3>Before Everything</h3>
<p>
Disconnect all socket from your main board, HDD, CD/DVD drive, Floppy drive and etc so that we can isolate which part
is not working.
</p>
<h3>Step 1 - Check Wall AC power</h3>
<p>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/step1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_step1.jpg" alt="ATX Power Supply" border="0" /></a>
<br />
To check this, you may try to plug in any electrical appliances to the wall socket to verify that the 240V exist
such as lamp, table fan or etc. If it is working, that mean the power from the wall socket is ok.
You may also check the voltage with multimeter if you have one.
</p>
<h3>Step 2 - Power Socket Fuse</h3>
<p>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/step2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_step2.jpg" alt="ATX Power Supply" border="0" /></a>
<br />
If you are using power socket with fuse, you may try to check this first.
The method is to plug the other end to other appliances such as your printer (turn on to verify),
monitor (turn on and look for LED indicator) or rice cooker (My rice cooker using the same type of socket).
Same thing, if it is ok, we know up to the power cord is also ok.
</p>
<h3>Step 3 - Voltage Selector</h3>
<p>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/step3.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_step3.jpg" alt="ATX Power Supply" border="0" /></a>
<br />
Not all power supply have this switch. My place using 240VAC.
So if it accidentally set to 110VAC the power supply maybe burn out. No more further troubleshooting.
But at place with 110VAC, maybe it will not burn out when it accidentally set to 240VAC.
It will in the low voltage condition and may not start I presume.
Select the correct voltage according to power provider rating.
</p>
<h3>Step 4 - 5V+ Standby Voltage</h3>
<p>
<a href="http://www.bluemax.net/techtips/ATXPowerSupplyWiring/ATXPowerSupplyWiring.htm" target="_blank" title="www.bluemax.net">
From bluemax.net
</a>
<br />
<img src="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/atx_pinout.gif" alt="ATX Pinout" />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/step4.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_step4.jpg" alt="ATX Power Supply" border="0" /></a>
<br />
The first point that have voltage upon plug in the AC power is the standby voltage.[refer figure above]
5VSB constantly provides 5V power to the connector at pin 9.
Check this voltage using volt meter to make sure that 5V exist (while the AC is turn on).
</p>
<h3>Step 5 - Simulate Power On</h3>
<p>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/step5.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_step5.jpg" alt="ATX Power Supply" border="0" /></a>
<br />
Now is the interesting part. To turn on your ATX power supply without mother board, the way is to make contact
between pin 14 and ground pin(3,5,7,13,15,16,17). Meaning you can turn it on by connecting pin 14 with the only green wire
connecting to it to other ground pin that is the pin with black wire. To verify that the power supply is working,
the ventilation fan should be working split second after you connect pin 14 to ground. Paper clip would be the best choice.
</p>
<h3>Step 6 - Check All Output</h3>
<p>
Now you can check all voltage output from the power supply. You need a voltmeter in order to do that.
<table>
<tr>
<td>
<table border=1>
<tr>
<th>Pin</th>
<th>Name</th>
<th width=16> </th>
<th>Color</th>
<th>Description</th></tr>
<tr>
<td>1</td>
<td>3.3V</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#ff7f00> </td>
<td>Orange</td>
<td>+3.3 VDC</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>2</td>
<td>3.3V</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#ff7f00> </td>
<td>Orange</td>
<td>+3.3 VDC</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>3</td>
<td>COM</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#000000> </td>
<td>Black</td>
<td>Ground</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>4</td>
<td>5V</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#ff0000> </td>
<td>Red</td>
<td>+5 VDC</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>5</td>
<td>COM</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#000000> </td>
<td>Black</td>
<td>Ground</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>6</td>
<td>5V</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#ff0000> </td>
<td>Red</td>
<td>+5 VDC</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>7</td>
<td>COM</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#000000> </td>
<td>Black</td>
<td>Ground</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>8</td>
<td>PWR_OK</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#777777> </td>
<td>Gray</td>
<td>Power Ok (+5V & +3.3V is ok)</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>9</td>
<td>5VSB</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#800080> </td>
<td>Purple</td>
<td>+5 VDC Standby Voltage (max 10mA)</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>10</td>
<td>12V</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#ffff00> </td>
<td>Yellow</td>
<td>+12 VDC</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>11</td>
<td>3.3V</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#ff7f00> </td>
<td>Orange</td>
<td>+3.3 VDC</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>12</td>
<td>-12V</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#0000ff> </td>
<td>Blue</td>
<td>-12 VDC</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>13</td>
<td>COM</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#000000> </td>
<td>Black</td>
<td>Ground</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>14</td>
<td>/PS_ON</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#00ff00> </td>
<td>Green</td>
<td>Power Supply On (active low)</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>15</td>
<td>COM</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#000000> </td>
<td>Black</td>
<td>Ground</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>16</td>
<td>COM</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#000000> </td>
<td>Black</td>
<td>Ground</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>17</td>
<td>COM</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#000000> </td>
<td>Black</td>
<td>Ground</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>18</td>
<td>-5V</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#ffffff> </td>
<td>White</td>
<td>-5 VDC</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>19</td>
<td>5V</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#ff0000> </td>
<td>Red</td>
<td>+5 VDC</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>20</td>
<td>5V</td>
<td align=middle width=16 bgcolor=#ff0000> </td>
<td>Red</td>
<td>+5 VDC</td>
</tr>
</table>
<a href="http://www.bluemax.net/techtips/ATXPowerSupplyWiring/ATXPowerSupplyWiring.htm" target="_blank" title="www.bluemax.net">
From bluemax.net
</a>
</td>
<td valign="top">
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/step6.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_step6.jpg" alt="ATX Power Supply" border="0" /></a>
<br />
</td>
</tr>
</table>
</p>
<h3>Good Luck</h3><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25608005-115460503361467458?l=leoricksimon.blogspot.com'/></div>leorickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12860324908477273661noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25608005.post-1147267390428992402006-05-10T21:22:00.000+08:002006-05-10T21:32:17.030+08:00S/PDIF - TOSLINK interface<h3>Circuit & Information on TOSLINK interface</h3>
<img src="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/circuit.gif" alt="cheap toslink circuit" border="0" />
<br />
So you want to get a high quality audio for minidisc recording but when
using red and white RCA, the quality drop drastically. Here a my cheap solution for you.
Actually you can find a lot of references of this type of simple project in the internet.
<br /><br />
REF
<br />
* S/PDIF = Sony/Philips Digital Interface<br />
* TOSLINK = (
<a href="http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/audioprinciples/interconnects/toslink.php">
TOSLINK Interconnect History & Basics
</a>
)<br />
* <a href="http://www.minidisc.org/cdrom_opticalout.htm" target="_blank">Another web offering the same information</a>
<br />
* <a href="http://www.epanorama.net/documents/audio/spdif.html">SPDIF at epanorama.net</a>
<br /><br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/parts.jpg">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_parts.jpg" alt="cheap toslink parts" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/wihout_plug.jpg" target="_blank">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_wihout_plug.jpg" alt="without miniplug" border="0" /></a>
<br />
Meet my version of cheap, 2 components TOSLINK @ S/PDIF.
Try to find a cable with connector from old PC casing for this.
(HDD led,reset switch or power button connector)
<br /><br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/blow_up.jpg">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_blow_up.jpg" alt="spdif blow up" border="0" /></a>
<br />
Assemble it using your own creativity. Use the pen tube for the light transmission.
<br /><br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/cdrom_connect.jpg">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_cdrom_connect.jpg" alt="cdrom connection" border="0" /></a>
<br />
Connect it to the back of your CDROM drive. Since (D, the signal should go to anode and G should go to the ground/cathode)
<br /><br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/llight_it_up.jpg">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_llight_it_up.jpg" alt="miniplug with light" border="0" /></a>
<br />
Test it out. you should see the light come out from the tip/tube.
<br /><br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/recording.jpg">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_recording.jpg" alt="minidisc recording" border="0" /></a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/pa_back.jpg">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_pa_back.jpg" alt="power amp spdif input" border="0" /></a>
<br />
Connect to your MD or other device such as power amp that support optical in.
<br /><br />
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/md_port.jpg">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_md_port.jpg" alt="md-digiport" border="0" /></a>
<br />
Actually, I have one of this (USB to SPDIF converter) for my minidisc but just to share with you on how to find a supercheap
solution before start buying. :-)
<br />
Even my new MSI mainboard do have built-in TOSLINK :-)<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25608005-114726739042899240?l=leoricksimon.blogspot.com'/></div>leorickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12860324908477273661noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25608005.post-1146826150369313062006-05-05T18:48:00.000+08:002006-05-06T17:08:16.636+08:00PC IrDA interface<h3>DIY IR interface</h3>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/irda_circuit.gif"><img alt="circuit" src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_irda_circuit.gif" border="0"/></a>
<br/>
This circuit is also from <a href="http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/pc/018/">www.electronics-lab.com</a>.
Since it is very hard for me to get the <b>infrared interface (TFDU4100)</b>, I start to look in the old/damage handphones.
It looks something like this.
<br/>
<a href="http://cdn-40.cdn.buzznet.com/assets/users10/leorick/default/ir_module_6600--large-msg-114675163111-2.jpg"><img alt="IRDA interface" src="http://cdn-44.cdn.buzznet.com/assets/users10/leorick/default/synd-msg-114675163111-2.jpg" border="0"/></a>
<a href="http://cdn-74.cdn.buzznet.com/assets/users10/leorick/default/msg-11467516337-2.jpg"><img alt="IR interface" src="http://cdn-62.cdn.buzznet.com/assets/users10/leorick/default/synd-msg-11467516337-2.jpg" border="0"/></a>
<br/>
Now, you need to remove it using the hot air blower perhaps.
<br/>
<img alt="hot air blower" src="http://cdn-67.cdn.buzznet.com/assets/users10/leorick/default/feat-msg-114675711359-2.jpg" border="0">
<h3>Connecting to motherboard</h3>
Please refer to <a href="http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/pc/018/">www.electronics-lab.com</a>
on how connect this irda module to your motherboard.
<h3>My IrDA</h3>
<a href="http://cdn-15.cdn.buzznet.com/assets/users10/leorick/default/msg-114675163786-2.jpg" ><img src="http://cdn-57.cdn.buzznet.com/assets/users10/leorick/default/synd-msg-114675163786-2.jpg" border="0" alt="diy irda" /></a>
<a href="http://cdn-18.cdn.buzznet.com/assets/users10/leorick/default/msg-114675164318-2.jpg" ><img src="http://cdn-19.cdn.buzznet.com/assets/users10/leorick/default/synd-msg-114675164318-2.jpg" border="0" alt="homemade irda" /></a>
<a href="http://cdn-80.cdn.buzznet.com/assets/users10/leorick/default/msg-114675164047-2.jpg" ><img src="http://cdn-40.cdn.buzznet.com/assets/users10/leorick/default/synd-msg-114675164047-2.jpg" border="0" alt="stripboard" /></a>
<a href="http://cdn-27.cdn.buzznet.com/assets/users10/leorick/default/msg-114675711777-2.jpg" ><img src="http://cdn-27.cdn.buzznet.com/assets/users10/leorick/default/synd-msg-114675711777-2.jpg" border="0" alt="link to cellphone" /></a>
<h3>Infrared Transceiver Modules</h3>
Here are the pin layout and picture of the device.
<br/>
<img alt="IRDA interface" src="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/TFDU4100_1.gif" border="0"/>
<img alt="IRDA picture" src="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/TFDU4100_2.gif" border="0"/>
<br/>
<h3>Pin Description of TFDU4100</h3>
<table border="1" style="BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse">
<tr>
<th>Pin Number</th>
<th>Function</th>
<th>Description</th>
<th>I/O</th>
<th>Active</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>1</td>
<td>IRED Anode</td>
<td>
IRED anode, should be externally connected
to VCC2 through a current control
resistor
</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2</td>
<td>IRED Cathode</td>
<td>
IRED cathode, internally connected to
driver transistor
</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>3</td>
<td>Txd</td>
<td>Transmit Data Input</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>High</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>4</td>
<td>Rxd</td>
<td>
Received Data Output, open collector.
No external pull–up or pull–down resistor
is required (20 k. resistor internal to device).
Pin is inactive during transmission.
</td>
<td>0</td>
<td>Low</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>5</td>
<td>NC</td>
<td>Do not connect</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>6</td>
<td>VCC1/SD</td>
<td>Supply Voltage / Shutdown</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>7</td>
<td>SC</td>
<td>Sensitivity control</td>
<td>1</td>
<td>High</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>8</td>
<td>GND</td>
<td>Ground</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
</table><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25608005-114682615036931306?l=leoricksimon.blogspot.com'/></div>leorickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12860324908477273661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25608005.post-1146056320326028972006-04-26T20:58:00.000+08:002006-04-26T20:58:40.326+08:00Touch Switch<p>
<h3>Experiment With NAND Gate - CMOS 4011</h3>
<img src="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/touch_sw.gif" border="0">
Output goes high when touch wires bridge by finger.
</p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25608005-114605632032602897?l=leoricksimon.blogspot.com'/></div>leorickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12860324908477273661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25608005.post-1146055832363587662006-04-26T20:49:00.000+08:002006-04-26T20:51:21.570+08:00Gates Oscillator<h3>Experiment With NAND Gate - CMOS 4011</h3>
<img src="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/4011.gif">
<br/>
(CMOS 4011 Layout)
<br/>
<h3>Circuit</h3>
<img src="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/gated_osc.gif" border="0">
<br/>
Try this super-simple experiment. The output frequency is about 1kHz (square wave).<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25608005-114605583236358766?l=leoricksimon.blogspot.com'/></div>leorickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12860324908477273661noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25608005.post-1145462700796543282006-04-20T00:04:00.000+08:002006-12-29T04:46:50.836+08:00Telephone FM Transmitter<h3>Descrition & Circuit</h3>
This project is taken from <a href="http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/telephone/007/index.html">www.electronics-lab.com</a>.<br>
With some modification, I create my own version of FM Telephone bug complete with stripboard layout.<br>
Theortically, the frequency range is from 88MHz to 94MHz but you may experiment with the coil structure to tune it<br><br>
<table border="0" style="BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" width="400" >
<tr valign="top">
<td>
<h4>Circuit</h4>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/tfmt_sch.gif">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_tfmt_sch.gif" border="0">
</a>
</td>
<td>
<h4>Strip Board Layout</h4>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/tfmt.gif">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_tfmt.gif" border="0">
</a>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
</p>
<p>
<h3>Parts List</h3>
<table border="1" style="BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" width="200" bordercolor="#abcdef">
<tr>
<td>Diode</td>
<td>IN4384</td>
<td>4</td></tr>
<tr>
<td></td>
<td>LED</td>
<td>1</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Resistor</td>
<td>12k</td>
<td>1</td></tr>
<tr>
<td></td>
<td>1k</td>
<td>1</td></tr>
<tr>
<td></td>
<td>200R</td>
<td>1</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Capacitor</td>
<td>470p</td>
<td>1</td></tr>
<tr>
<td></td>
<td>330p</td>
<td>1</td></tr>
<tr>
<td></td>
<td>25p</td>
<td>1</td></tr>
<tr>
<td></td>
<td>12p</td>
<td>1</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Transistor</td>
<td>A933(PNP)</td>
<td>1</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Coil</td>
<td>*See note</td>
<td>1</td></tr>
</table>
*Coil note<br>
7 or 8 turns of 22AWG(diameter .6mm) around 9/64inch(3.6mm)
drill bit. Antenna using the same wire 22AWG, 5inch long
<h3>Picture</h3>
<table border="0" style="BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" width="400">
<tr valign="top">
<td>
Compact!<br>
<a href="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/tfmt4.gif">
<img src="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_tfmt4.gif" border="0">
</a>
</td>
<td>
With antenna!<br>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/tfmt3.gif">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_tfmt3.gif" border="0">
</a>
</td>
</tr>
<tr valign="top">
<td>
Put it online!<br>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/tfmt1.gif">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_tfmt1.gif" border="0">
</a>
</td>
<td>
Get ready to tune your radio!<br>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/tfmt2.gif">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_tfmt2.gif" border="0">
</a>
</td>
</tr>
</table><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25608005-114546270079654328?l=leoricksimon.blogspot.com'/></div>leorickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12860324908477273661noreply@blogger.com48tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25608005.post-1144676063720121712006-04-10T21:33:00.000+08:002006-11-18T03:32:44.410+08:00Lab Power Supply<h3>Description and Circuit</h3>
Make your own lab power supply complete with adjustable voltage and constant current source.<br>
Using single IC (LM324)<br>
<table width="300">
<tr valign="bottom">
<td>
Here are the circuit.<br>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/psu.jpg">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_psu.jpg" border="0">
</a>
</td>
<td>
Strip Board Layout.<br>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/lps_layout.gif">
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_lps_layout.gif" border="0">
</a>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
</p>
<p>
<h3>Part List</h3>
1 LM324 Opamp<br>
1 Ammeter 100 µA 1k ohm<br>
1 Voltmeter<br>
6 IN4001<br>
1 Zener Diode 9.1V<br>
1 Full-Wave Bridge Rectifier<br>
1 LED<br>
2 NPN Transistor, 2N3055<br>
1 NPN Transistor, BC109C<br>
1 Transformer<br>
2 E-Capacitor 2200µF<br>
1 Potentiometer 5k ohm linear<br>
1 Potentiometer 10k ohm linear<br>
1 Resistor 500 ohm<br>
2 Resistor 2.2k ohm<br>
1 Resistor 560 ohm<br>
1 Resistor 6.2k ohm<br>
2 Resistor 68k ohm<br>
1 Resistor 0.22 ohm<br>
4 Resistor 4.7k ohm<br>
</p>
<p>
<h3>Component Image.</h3>
<table width="300">
<tr valign="bottom" align="middle">
<td>
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_lm324.jpg" border="0" >
<h4>LM324</h4>
</td>
<td>
<img src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_3055.jpg" border="0" >
<h4>2N3055</h4>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
</p>
<p>
<h3>Some Pictures.</h3>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/psu2.jpg">
<img border="0" title="top view" src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_psu2.jpg">
</a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/psu1.jpg">
<img border="0" title="angle view" src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_psu1.jpg">
</a>
<a href="http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/psu3.jpg">
<img border="0" title="circuit using stripboard" src="http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j295/leoricksimon/th_psu3.jpg">
</a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/25608005-114467606372012171?l=leoricksimon.blogspot.com'/></div>leorickhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12860324908477273661noreply@blogger.com24