Vespa Journeys

Day 9 - 388 Miles

2009-08-07T21:39:00.008-04:00

I decided to sleep in, but woke up anyway because I failed to close the drapes last night. I had thought about just punching up the "go home" button on the GPS, and specifying "avoid interstates". I google mapped a bit, but the thought ran through my head of last year leaving Lake Tahoe finally starting my ~3100 mile return journey towards home thinking: Oh hell, now I have to drive home.

My better senses took over and I decided to take the most direct route towards I-85 and head home. I'm not sure I actually did take the most direct route, but I got there within a hour anyway. I don't particularly care to drive on the interstates, mostly due to inattentive drivers grossly exceeding the speed limits, not to mention, my scooter has been hitting the rev limiter on this trip around 78mph. I can't always get away from the idiots.

The trip was mostly uneventful sans the 10 mile back up in the opposite lane near Gaffney, SC. Looked like a tractor-trailer drove off the road, slid along the embankment for several thousand feet before ending up on the side on the right shoulder. Gawkers in my lane made for a 3/4 mile back-up. It also made a great excuse to jump off the interstate for a photo-op with the giant peach water tower. There's a big green leaf on the other side making it look far less like butt cheeks from the opposite direction.

I finally got home after a hot long drive around 7:45pm. The temperature and humidity were higher that it's been all week. I did mange to miss the "Friday afternoon get out of town" traffic in Charlotte, and missed altogether the RTP traffic near home. Guy and Lola were very happy to see me. However, I never can tell if it's me or the fact that I feed them nearly every time I walk in the front door. It was nice to sleep in my own bed, and I do think the felines miss sleeping with me in bed too, even if it doesn't involve kibbles.

Day 8 - 261 Miles

2009-08-06T23:50:00.003-04:00

Our day started off by saying goodbye to Loren and Kate, they had a deadline to get their rental bike back to Richmond. The Brits too; David, Brenda, Lucy and Henry left as well, only the day after finally getting the second chase van replaced with one that actually started. We set off to Deals Gap to ride a particularly twisted section of US 129: 318 curves in 11 miles. Not long after we took off, we stopped and turned around to find Michael stopped with some clutch problem. We left him in the care of Rob and Scott in the other chase van, and headed towards Deals Gap.

We stopped at the Deals Gap Motorcycle Resort after a few turns in for a souvenir stop and for the amusement of the Tree of Shame. This clearly is the destination for all two wheeled vehicles, and the tree is for all those bits and pieces of bikes that split up upon impact with a tree or ditch.

The actual 11 miles of twists and turns is not much different than some of the twisties we've experienced, but just bunched closer together. The speed limit is 30 mph, and one TN State Trooper had a couple of crotch rockets on the side of the road in handcuffs. I felt no need to set any speed records, and surprisingly spent most of the time with no cars or bikes in sight.

The highlight of the day for me was the baby bear on the side of the road on the Dragon's Tail. At first, it looked like a fake bear with his paw lifted, ready to cross the road. My brain quickly connected there were no tacky lawn ornaments on this highway. I slowed down, he broke his steely pose, turned back and ran back in the woods.

We wound up driving back through Marysville to get Jonathan and Sheryl with the sidecar to the Harley dealership. Last night he had a fouled plug and was driving on one cylinder. I gave him a wire brush for the plug and thought the matter was fixed. It wasn't and off we went. This dealership is truly a destination upon itself. Out back there was an outdoor stage with a covered patio, a BBQ shack serving fresh pulled pork sandwiches from the huge hot smoker next to the stage. It was a welcomed respite, even if the bad news about Jonathan's ignition not being manufactured anymore was the source of his problems. No worries however, he rented a bike, several folks shifted two-up and we continued our journey.

We rode towards the Cherohala Skyway, through the Cherokee National Forest towards our final destination of the day: Dahlonega, GA where the Eastern Gold Rush began. I have to say the Cherohala Skyway was one of the most enjoyable rides this entire week. Just the right mix of trees and mountains and curves and streams and vistas.

We got the hotel late, Rob and Scott has scoped out a dinner spot willing to stay open late for us. The Crimson Moon Cafe served up a delectable shrimp and grits, and I saw several other tasty dishes go by. The huge slice of carrot cake Dennis ordered didn't look too shabby either. An acoustic duo was finishing up their last set. We broke out in guffaws when they broke into the the Lumberjack song from Monty Python. The other diners still left at the other tables I guess had never heard the song. More kazoos cheered up the remaining diners and wait staff.

Today's short slide show:

Day 7 - 222 Miles

2009-08-05T23:52:00.007-04:00

We shot down I-75 towards Gatlinburg and took a detour through Cades Cove. Its a massive glen atop the mountains. A loop road winds through the park that once was a community. Several old churches and cabins dot the edge of the one way loop through the lush dell atop the Smoky Mountains. The loop road was rough in places, and my cooling fan came on for way too long waiting for the traffic jams. Although the signs clearly request one not to stop on the road for photos, but to use the numerous pulloffs, that didn't seem to faze the several van loads of kids that stopped at nearly every turn. I can't imagine how crowded this must be on a weekend. It did give me ample time to consider what living atop this mountain in the lush green valley would have been like to the early settlers. Several deer sightings as well as a bear crossing the road were the lead causes of the traffic jams.

We did catch a glimpse back on Hwy 321 of three elk munching in a small field by the road on our way to Gatlinburg. We had a late lunch a the first place we found: Smokey's Sports Pub and Grub. They were nice to accomodate the mess of us so late in the day. Some anonymous benefactor picked up the tab for lunch. My bet it was Jonathan. Thanks for the grub, it was tasty after that loop through the cove.

It was so late in the day, we decided to skip the hike a Clingman's Dome and head to Mingus Mill off Hwy 441. We got there just after they closed up for the day, but the outside and the machinery leading to the still working mill was fascinating. I followed the sluice upstream aways, and crossed the stream into the lush forrest. The mist hanging in the air was thick and cool.

Our last leg took us on Hwy 74 to Bryson City for the night. We found Mickey's Pub downtown. It was a gathering place for locals that also welcomed outsiders like ourselves. The bar was covered with brassieres stapled to the wooden structure. After several adult carbonated beverages, Alice, Shelly, and Kacey decided to leave their mark on the bar like so many before them. The bartender had the staple gun ready to go behind the bar, and up all four of them went, standing on the bar. The locals seemed to get a kick as well from the shenanigans.

Todays slide show.

Day 6 - 245 miles

2009-08-04T23:15:00.009-04:00

Most of us managed to get to Melaine's in downtown Boone for breakfast. The Eggs Benedict were delicious, and it seems everyone else had a tasty breakfast as well. Our first stop was the Mast General Store in Valle Crusis. I can spend hours in a Lowes or Home Depot, I could spend a week in this old timey blast from the past. The smells and sights are inviting as the candy counter next to the homemade jams and jellies. The clothing and crafts section, as well as the hardware selection really make one feel like they have stepped back in time.

We left Valle Crusis headed towards Roan Mountain State Park in Tennessee. More winding roads lead us higher and higher where the clouds hanging over the mountain tops clung in the valleys. We missed the turn off and drove to the other side of the mountain before turning back and heading up again. Funny enough the parking area at the top was named Cloudview somethingorother. We were totally socked in by clouds swirling around us. Didn't seem to bother the several families grilling out in the parking lot. More kazoos for the kids. Needless to say, we skipped the hike in the park.

We shot on over to Johnson City, TN for lunch before departing for Cumberland Gap. Unfortunately, the skies did not cooperate and the light rain we encountered leaving town turned worse and worse as we got wetter and wetter. After stopping for a particularly heavy downpour with lightning all around us, we decided to head straight to our hotel in Corbin, KY.

After drying off a bit, a Mexican Dinner at El Ranchero was a welcome respite. Even more so since Bill picked up the tab. I expecting a discount, but this was over the top. Thanks Bill.

We were due for freshly baked pie for desert at Moe and Christina's house ( how do they manage to cook and plan these rides is beyond me ) before heading to Cumberland Falls to witness a moonbow: a rainbow in the mist from the light of the moon. Unfortunately, we 'll only get to enjoy pictures, as the clouds did not cooperate. However the pie was to die for. Rhubarb, Cherry, Apple, and Lemonade pie was a treat as well. Thanks Christine.

A short slide show. Laundry time...

Day 5 - 154 miles

2009-08-03T23:12:00.003-04:00

Today was not the best day for the Brits. I needed a bit of air for my rear tire, and used my compressor. Michael needed some air too, and he used the compressor, but plugged it in the chase van Brenda and David have rented so not to drain my battery. Unfortunately , the van's battery was nearly flat for some unknown reason. We left the van behind to get fixed up by the rental co.

We all got a bit lost getting got of town, but eventually headed out US 421 south. The signs warned truckers to find an alternate route for the next 22 miles, and for good reason. This has been the most twists and turns so far. I've driven this road many years ago, and several other twisty roads, but this is the first time I've seen roads on my GPS unit looking more like intestines than a curvy road. Its so curvy, there's not warning signs at every curve. So you know when you see a warning sign for 20 mph curve ahead, they really mean it.

We got to Boone, and Moe had managed to eek out a discounted lunch for us. Thanks Moe. We didn't stop for long however, we fueled up and continued on the Blue Ridge Parkway south. Our first stop was Beacon Heights Overlook. A short trail lead to an outcropping stone platform with incredible vistas of the mountains. Our stop there became long winded due to a patrolman deciding to stop Brenda (of David and Brenda from the UK) driving the last chase car. Our quaint customs regarding the proper procedure for a police stop were somewhat lost in translation, and those things customary in England didn't go over too well. Apparently we needed a 'permit' to drive the parkway. She finally talked the patrolman into meeting with Greg at Beacon Heights where it mostly went from bad to worse. We got the full Barney Fife story later in the evening.

We wound our way to Linville Falls, and took a short hike up to the several viewing areas of the falls. It was steep in a few places, but a good workout after eating way too much for lunch. The trail through the lush forest did little to muffle the sound of water crashing down the falls. I was expecting to see some wildlife towards the end of the trail, but only saw delicate flowers peeping through the low lying foliage.

We wound way back towards Boone where Greg and Alice managed to host a delicious Mexican feast for the more than 30 of us at their home in Boone. I'm not sure how they managed to pull that off being on the road for the last four days, but it was a treat. Thanks, it was awesome.

Slideshow:

Day 4 - 167 Miles

2009-08-02T23:43:00.010-04:00

The day started out dreary with rain, and reports of flash flooding in the direction we planned to travel were dismal. We decided to sandbag for a few hours until most of the rain had passed. Time for a less than spectacular breakfast at IHOP, but nonetheless better than the continental breakfast at the hotel. Rather than a scenic journey towards Abingdon, VA, we took the direct route on I-81. We still passed through several showers, but the worst part was behind us. Joseph seemed to have solved his starter shorting out problems, and made the journey with us.

Our destination was the Barter Theatre, one of the oldest continually operating LORT D theatres in the country. Lunch was provided in the Barter Theatre Cafe compliments of CM Hoist Manufacturing. Several folks got tickets to see The Wizard of Oz, and the rest of us got the grand tour of the scenic, property, and costume shops, as well as several smaller venues, and rehearsal halls. One of our riders, Michael, was a carpenter at the Barter in the late 70's. I could see the joyful look in his eye, reminiscing about old times.

Dinner tonight was an old fashioned pig picking with Moe's Mom and Dad in Bristol, VA. For those not in the know, a 'pig picking' is a whole or half pig roasted slowly over open coals for 10-14 hours. The meat just falls off the bones, and usually before it's all said and done, a crowd gathers around the carcass and picks off tender, juicy bits, or crunches on the crispy skin.

The back yard drops off down to a glen where the feast was laid out. The bucolic landscape spread to adjoining field with cows and horses munching on grass. The property is bordered with thorny blackberry bushes dripping with plump berries. Moe's Dad spent the last two days picking blackberries for a scrumptious cobbler. It was still warm, and the ice cream slowly melted into the buttery crust. An awesome end to our day.

Today's short slide show:

Day 3 - 352 Miles

2009-08-01T23:25:00.002-04:00

Today was an early start, although kickstands at 7:00am turned into more like 7:20am, sort of like scooter time. We left Richmond heading west on I-64. Joseph has been blowing fuses on his starter, and the local Harley shop will get him in to take a look. Dennis and Frank will stay behind and meet up at the hotel tonight.

A thick mist hangs in the air, and visibility becomes more difficult when we head north on US 522. The slower speeds make it harder to clear my face shield. The sun barely cuts through the mist, leaving a spooky feel to the rolling fields and farms along the gently twisting two lane.

After a few stops to take on and release fuel, we finally get to the start of Skyline Drive, a twisty curvy highway along the ridge of the Shenandoah Mountains. The winding road has a speed limit of 35 mph, and in some places its obvious why. The sunlight peeking through the tree covered road makes a mosaic on the road making it difficult to distinguish the bumps and cracks from the shadows.

We've split in two groups. I'm taking the detour to Luray Caverns, the other group will continue on the 100 or so miles of Skyline drive towards Fisherville, our lunch destination. These caverns are huge. I've toured caverns in NC, TN and Bermuda, and this by far is the largest. Also makes for huge crowds, and I sort of miss the tour guide, now that they use self-guided headsets. I tried my hand at photos without the use of flash, or a tripod, shaky, but OK. The highlight I think is the The Great Stalacpipe Organ. A custom console that actuates rubber mallets, via solenoids on stalagmites to produce a complete range of tones like a pipe organ.

We were treated to lunch by the Fisherville Methodist Church. BBQ and homemade potato and macaroni salad were a welcome treat after a long morning. The highlight by far was the homemade ice cream. Thanks to Larry "Pastor Disaster" and the rest of the church for lunch.

We continued along the Blue Ridge Parkway towards Roanoke. The ride gave us ample opportunity to take in the vistas from the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Surprisingly there was little traffic. I expected much worse for a weekend. The cooler temperatures at the higher elevations made for an enjoyable afternoon.

Dinner was compliments of Moe and Christine's Uncle Charles and Aunt Anna. They have retired to Roanoke and built a gorgeous and inviting home. It was a great end to a long day driving.

Some slides for today:

Day 2 - 98 Miles

2009-07-31T22:55:00.006-04:00

Our morning started early with the blessing of the bikes. A local Powhatan Chief Ken sent us on our way to leave this world a better place than we found it. Sounds good to me. We didn't leave till Bill blessed the bikes as well with Holy Water from his mother Ida.

Our first stop was a trip to Historic Jamestown. A canopy of trees lined the narrow winding road towards the East. We got a few breaks waiting in construction zones and a few group photo ops.

Once in Historic Jamestown, we split to take in the Museum and Exhibits at our own pace. The Museum had a special exhibit of Bermuda and the influence it had on the early settlements of the Americas. Interesting for me, several artifacts I have enjoyed in my journeys to Bermuda were on loan here.

Several replica ships were moored on the river and were open to tour. I can't imagine living in the cramped quarters of these ships as they sailed across the Atlantic. I also can't imagine working at the museum as a re-enactor. These actors were decked out in heavy clothing, and the temperatures were in the 90's with high humidity.

Several of us were historied out, and decided to take the ferry across to Surrey and try to find the Virginia Diner we were told about rather than continue on to Williamsburg and Yorktown. Supposedly it has a delectable selection of pies. Our small group got split up when the TSA, or whoever thinks we're wanting to blow up the ferry, decided to stop half of us for a "random" search. It was Chris's turn to strip his bike for one agent while the other examined the underside of his bike with a mirror. The rest of us waved good-bye to the other half of the group as the ferry pulled away from the dock.

We managed to make the best of it. Greg handed out kazoos to kids in several cars on the next ferry. Kazoos became the calling card for the Long Reach Long Riders several years ago, and it makes for a lot of happy kids, if not happy parents, for a while anyway. The kazoos are a perfect ice breaker for a bunch of motorcycle riders trying to raise money and awareness for the charities we are supporting. Two small boys came back to Greg with a small donation themselves. Thanks kids, it really does go for a great cause.

Needless to say we never found the Diner after we caught up with the rest of the group that made the first ferry. We managed to dodge several rain showers on the way back to Richmond.

Last night Darren suggested we might enjoy a local biker hangout called the Sportsman Lounge. Pool tables, darts, shuffle board, horseshoes, and locals. Good food, good beer and good times. More kazoos for the local patrons.

A double rainbow greeted me as I left the bar. Tomorrow we're off towards Skyline Drive and the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Today's slide show is a bit longer:

Day 1- 195 miles

2009-07-30T22:50:00.004-04:00

I actually got out of town within 15 minutes of my goal. It's rare for me. My journey to Richmond, VA takes me up US1 on familiar roads. I've made more than a few trips here in the last year to help my friend from Columbia, Lynn, to re-build her Lambretta. She's been working with Darren Lopez, restorer extraordinaire, and I've learnt a lot myself. I stick to US1 rather than the interstate, and this ride is relaxing and enjoyable. Once into Virginia, the road becomes speckled with sunlight along the gentle hills and curves towards Richmond.

The Lambretta bug bit me a while back, and I learn something every time I visit. I planned to stop in to see Darren on the way. His yard and shop are scattered with Lambrettas and Vespas in all shape and forms, waiting to be restored. Once there, Darren's lovely companion Charlotte, treated me to the fresh spoils of their garden on warm pita with hummus. Fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers, marinated in vinegar base with fresh herbs. I really didn't want to leave, but I had a riders meeting at 5pm.

Many old faces and many more new faces this year with the Long Reach Long Riders. We have almost 30 riders on 20 bikes or so. Some have come as far away as England, Canada, and California. Many of us are from the East Coast. Mostly Harleys, with a few Hondas, the rare Suzuki, and me on the lone Vespa.

We leave after the briefing to a splendid dinner hosted by the Chickahominy Indian Tribe at the Tribal Center. The tribe located near the James River helped the early settlers survive the the first few winters. We get a rich history lesson along with a feast of deer meat, both braised and barbecued, fresh fish, potatoes, and succotash.

A few raindrops on the way back to the hotel was not so bad, although I didn't bring my rain gear. We enjoyed another impromptu rider meeting along with some fresh spoils of someone else's corn crop in the liquid form. I'm looking forward to tomorrows trip to historic Jamestown and Williamsburg.

A short slide show from today.

I'm Off on Another Journey

2009-07-29T22:46:00.003-04:00

Day minus one-

Well, I'm doing it again, but not all the way across the country this time. The Long Reach Long Riders Charity Ride this year will be on the East Coast, snaking along Skyline Drive and the Blue Ridge Parkway. I'm no less prepared for this journey than I was for the last. It's easier for me to pack and prepare, since I made the first of these journeys last year. I tend to start packing in my head a few weeks out, so the real act of getting my act together is not so stressful.

I did however discover in my prepping my scooter for this journey, I have sheared off on of my exhaust manifold studs. I'm keeping my fingers crossed it won't cause me problems, but I have taken the precaution of a wire tie to loosely divert my rear brake line away from the hot exhaust gasses leaking from the exhaust header. I figure I've been riding around like this for along time, so I'm not too worried.

A drive to Greensboro tonight to take my Mom to dinner to celebrate her 80th birthday is a welcome diversion to the 'last night before a long journey' doubts. I really don't have the time stress about what I have forgotten or not. I've just gotta go...

I Survived Highway 50

2008-07-22T20:27:00.003-04:00

From I Survived Highway 50

Well, I actually got in the mail today my certificate, suitable for framing, and pin from the Nevada Tourism Commission that says "I Survived Highway 50.

The pin is sort of lame. Doesn't even say I survived.

From I Survived Highway 50

Island Vespa

2008-06-22T17:19:00.015-04:00

So, it's not a Vespa, but it's my ride on the island.

Bermuda, ahhh my treasured island to bemoan. You see, every time I arrive, the weather is gruesome, and work is a burdensome chore, but the folks I work for, Barry and James are a treat to work with. This time is no different. I try my best keep my rain gear with me at all times, but I usually fail miserably.

It was sad in a twisted sort of way to find a Piaggio badge from some Vespa crushed and defaced at the end of the driveway at Barry's house.

One of the things I do take the time to do is find a rock on the water to enjoy, while eating my lunch. It really helps to get away from the job site during lunch and enjoy the scenery. I can look, but I can't touch....I've nearly gotten to the point of not telling people where I'm going when I have to come over here and work. I get the idea most people think I'm laying on the beach. Just ask anyone whom I've brought over to work here. It ain't no vacation, trust me. If it's not miserably hot and humid, it's raining, or a hurricane is on the way.

Here's how it usually goes. I get a crap load of gear shipped over here. I'm lucky if it gets unloaded off the boat and cleared through customs in a timely fashion, and undamaged. Then, say one of my manufacturers forgets to send the bolts for the clips, I have to drive to the other side of the island to a hardware store only to find they have the bolts, but not the nuts. OK, so I drive to the opposite side of the island, to another hardware jobber, they have the nuts, but they're metric. I swear, this is the way it goes. Yea, its a vacation....I get to work on my stunning lineless full body suntan in the depths of most any dark theatre.

In all the fifteen years I've been working on this island, I never took the time to check out the local Vespa shop. I tried to score some swag, but I failed miserably. With so many scooters here, I believe it is considered merely a utilitarian purchase. Very different than the scooter shops back in the states. Nothing, no tee-shirts, no key chains, nada, zip, zilch. There is a pile of rusting hulks of LX125 frames looking pitiful to me.

A little slide show of my latest journey:

Laundry Day

2008-06-17T20:51:00.006-04:00

Well... really, wash the scooter day.

I've never washed my scooter, really. I'm one of those 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' kind of people. I wash my car once a year whether it needs it or not.

I have to admit however, after more than 8800 miles on the road, and not enough rain showers to wash the bugs off it was looking pretty bad. Really bad. Several people along the way asked if they could help me wash, like the windscreen, or something. I figured since I didn't actually look through it, why did it matter?

Today's slide show is for all you kind folks who really wanted to wash my scooter. You know who you are.

One Day after -

2008-06-11T19:26:00.006-04:00

Sleeping in my own bed was nice, but it just didn't seem right without a couple of felines stomping over me all night. They're still at their Grandparents house, and will be for a few more days. I've got to jump right back into work.

Almost 8800 miles. Wow! I'm so glad I took this trip, and I'd leave tomorrow again if I could. I have had the splendid opportunity to meet and enjoy some of the finest people one could ever meet. I think I have forged some new friendships that just wouldn't have happened if not for this extraordinary journey.

All the guys and gals on the lrlr.org charity ride, I'm proud to have had the opportunity to share some incredible vistas of this country I've only seen from 32,000 feet in the air, and conjure up some cash for two outstanding charities. All you Royal Bastards on the west coast, thank you for opening your hearts and homes and making me a part of you. I'm more than just Easy, I'm humbled and honored. To all my Cushman friends, thank you for welcoming me to your world. It's been a trip, really. And to anyone reading this now, thank you. Writing this has not been easy for me, but I think it's worth it. I appreciate all your comments.

Many of you have kindly asked me about my concerns for my personal safety and what precautions I had taken. Well...really...none. I mean I do carry an 18" breaker bar and a swell Gerber hatchet, but those items would be nowhere at hand if I really needed to clock someone. I think a lot of one's personal safety is in one's head. Look confident and you'll be confident. I helps for sure that I wear the full get up of protective gear with a full face helmet and dark face shield. My riding style probably gives me away to experienced riders, but for the most part, I think I look mostly androgynous. Actually on several occasions in Utah and Kansas, a carload of youth would speed by, yelling 'faggot' out their windows, and display their limp wrists. I usually responded with my tightly cupped hand pageant wave.

Several people have asked what would I do different next time. Hmmm. Let's see...

#1- I won't bury my flashlight deep in the pet carrier. I'll start of with it in the glove box.

#2- Unless I'm doing a specific camping trip, I'll ditch the tent and sleeping bag. Just too bulky, and for me, I rather enjoyed finding and staying at the no-tell-motels found on the outskirts of small towns. I like having internet.

#3- Sunblock everyday. I didn't realize until the third or fourth day that I could get a sunburn on my face under my full-face helmet with a sun visor. Same thing with windburn around my neck despite the high collar of my hi-viz jacket.

#4- I should have researched my locales more in advance. Even with my leisurely 250 mile a day pace, I burned up a good portion of the day deciding what I would like to seek out. Some days I just drove until something caught my eye.

#5- I'll call my credit card company every three days to make sure they don't cut my card off for 'my own fraud protection' No, wait...I did that already. What useless pricks at American Express. Seems like only the last of nine separate calls that eventually was routed to 'Account Services Dept.' was able to cut through the BS and stop the declines. Why 'Customer Service Dept.' or 'Fraud Dept.' couldn't do the same thing is a mystery to me.

The things I would do the same again:

#1- Have a spare set of keys accessible at all times. It really came in handy when I left my keys on Lucky's kitchen counter in Sacramento, and we had trailered the scooters the few hours to Tahoe. Would have been very awkward to go back for keys.

#2- Take spare tools, wheel, rollers, belt, and such. It ate up most of my space in the pet carrier, but I was confident I could handle most any roadside maintenance issue. With the exception of the keys, I'm of the mindset: if I have it, I won't need it, and conversely if I need it, I won't have it. So, I tend to overpack.

#3- Take spare oil. I think the days of WOT burned oil. I had to add oil three times, about 2/3 cup each time.

#4- Take spare fuel. I bought two small fuel bottles from the local outdoor camping store. Clamped one under the rear luggage rack and another in the pet carrier. Needless to mention, I did run out of fuel near McLean, TX, where the fuel stations are not at every exit.

#5- Take and drink plenty of water, always. De-hydration is an issue in all kinds of weather.

#6- Take lots of gloves, once a pair gets wet, even the waterproof ones, they transmit the cold badly to my fingers. It was nice to have a dry pair of gloves to switch to. Same thing for mesh gloves, once they're wet, they're a drag.

#7- Take a good first aid kit, and forget the band-aids. Take loads of gauze and other blood sucking material. Road-rash is not pretty and band-aids would be worthless for some deep blood gushing gash in my flesh.

Thats all for now. It's good to be home.

Cheers.

Day 37 - 115 Miles

2008-06-11T18:41:00.003-04:00

Destination: Home

I sandbagged all day long waiting for the sun to go down. A cold snap was predicted for tomorrow: 92F high. I figured either wait for the sun to go down, or wait until the next morning. Besides, it gave me almost another whole day to visit with my cousins and aunts whom I just don't get to see too often.

I walked to the Trent River Coffee shop, my cousin Lauralyn, was already there. Several customers were skeptical of my recent adventure, but mercifully Ed, the proprietor had a computer there. This blog reveals all.

We decided to try the Pollack Street Deli for breakfast, but we just missed the cut off. A grilled shrimp salad with feta cheese however was as good or better as an omelet had we gotten there earlier. I'm amused at all the bears, some carved well, some not scattered all through town.

The temperature drops to a frigid 90F after the sun goes down, and that's my cue to head home. The thought of sleeping in my own bed seems foreign. I've slept in nearly as many different beds as the number of days I've been gone on this journey. I've met so many wonderful people along the way, it seems like it will be a let down, but I'm anxious to get home.

A short slide how today:

Day 36 - 84 Miles

2008-06-10T09:45:00.008-04:00

Destination: Atlantic Beach, NC

My cousin Lauralyn, and I get up and walk downtown to a coffee shop, and then to a bakery for breakfast. The coffee shop is filled with locals who seem right at home. One customer complains about all the old posters on the windows. She's been cleaning the windows in exchange for her coffee fix. Try that at a Starbux. I ate an omelet bigger than my head at the bakery and stopped at the small grocery store for some needed supplies for a lazy day on the river.

It was miserably hot and I decided to bite the bullet and head to the beach, hell's fire and damnation. Surprisingly it was almost 15 degrees cooler, 40 miles away at the beach. I stopped for that iconic photo of my scooter on the Atlantic Ocean. Looks sort of like the left coast, eh? I took a quick tour around Fort Macon, a fort first established to protect Beaufort Inlet, but later fell into Confederate hands. I have fond memories of another family visit there many years ago with my Grandmother and Uncles who have long since passed.

I beat a hasty retreat back to New Bern, for a cool shower and a cold adult carbonated beverage. Not too much later, I was snoozing the day away in the warm breeze on a huge hammock.

I forgot to mention last night, my cousin Ben took several of us on an evening river cruise on a brilliantly restored skipjack. The Ada Mae is one of only a few surviving oyster dredging vessels from the early 1900's. It's now used as a teaching vessel to help kids understand and appreciate coastal and maritime heritage through Carolina Coastal Classrooms. We went a good ways downriver and returned under power of the jib sail.

Todays momentous slideshow of the terminus of my journey:

Day 35 - 201 Miles

2008-06-09T12:03:00.010-04:00

Destination: The Atlantic Ocean

Coast to coast X2 (almost). Wow, I'm still in a bit of a fog thinking: did I really do this? I cooked breakfast for my self for the first time in I don't remember when. Scrambled eggs with sweet onions, cheddar cheese, with bacon. Mighty tasty if I must say so myself.

Actually my destination is my cousins house in New Bern, NC. But I figure if I'm going to brag about a coast to coast adventure, by damnit I better get to the other ocean. So I'll drive the extra 40 miles past New Bern to Atlantic Beach for that iconic picture of my scooter on the other coast, tomorrow.

I head out of Greensboro on Alamance Church Road which eventually leads me to Chapel Hill on some of the most picturesque back roads in NC. After crossing Interstate 85, one house catches my eye. Some bizarre greco-roman gingerbread renovation frozen in a state of flux. There's statues, and columns, and archways scattered about the front yard. In the back yard I spy a medieval sort of parapet wall. There's a carved statue strung on a utility pole resembling a cross between an Easter Island statuary and a Totem pole. It's a visual cacophony of styles and images. Next door, sharing a driveway, a small engine repair shop sports all sorts of lawnmowers rusting away. I'm guessing they're related.

The signs pointing to Chapel Hill lead me through Kimesville. The village built a dam back in 1812 to run a grist mill. A cotton mill was on the site until 1931. It's a picturesque recreational setting, water gently trickling over the side. I remember as a child, my family driving to see holiday decorations and animated lighting displays strung out over the dam during Christmas time. I'm curious if they still do decorations. Several small buildings, and a replica of a lighthouse dot the edge of the reservoir. One shack advertises: "SEE ROCK CITY" on it's roof.

If the cool shade was a cash commodity, cows would be the miser kings of cool. They know how to milk every inch of cool from a tiny patch of shade. An if there's not enough shade they just pile in a pond and swim around to keep cool. It is miserably hot and humid. It's supposed to be 103F when I pass through Raleigh, but my outside temp gauge tells me it's 109F. Lots of farm lands remind me of the bucolic midwest landscape I just traveled through with their silos sticking in the air.

I'm always amused at signs on the highway displaying a double entendre, like 'Eat here, Get gas' and this one in Goldsboro is no exception. Folks who are not from around here are always get a giggle from this sign. I always wonder if the guys from the DOT had any idea how amusing that sign really is. Double click on the image for the full size.

I decided to stop in Kinston and pick up some barbeque. That's Eastern NC barbeque, it's a noun around here not a verb. It's pulled pork from a slowly smoked juicy pig that's spiced with a vinegar based sauce. Not too hot and never sweet. It's always good. My outside air temperature gauge tells me it 118F when I'm waiting at a stop light. Hell's inferno can't be this bad.

Ben and Marion's house, on the Neuse River is the gathering point for a family re-union. At some funeral many, many years ago, my mother and her three siblings decided to not wait for the next funeral for a get-together. This half of the family made a concentrated effort to do that, and it's truly been a treat throughout the years. I haven't made it to all the gatherings, but those I've been to have been a delight. My Uncles, Cullen and Tryon have passed away in the last two years, and each one of these events become more precious for me.

It's just too darn hot today to continue on to the beach. Besides lots of family folks are leaving today. Slide show today:

Day 34 - 172 Miles

2008-06-07T22:39:00.008-04:00

Destination: Greensboro, NC

I left Asheville early this morning in comparison to my normal departure time. Mostly to avoid the heat, it's supposed to be in the 100's today. Secondly, I want to get to the Scooter Vita of the Triad early to change my rear tire and get them to mount my old Michelin Gold Standard for the rear. This one has developed disturbing bulges only on the right side. Several are very big.

I decided to take I-40 instead of some smaller back roads. I figure if I have a blow-out and drive off the road into a ditch on a secondary road, I could be there for days. At least I have a fighting chance of someone seeing me and not hitting me as I drive off the shoulder of the interstate.

This heat is oppressive, very different than the dry desert heat. Here, you're sweaty and sticky in this humidity, and it's hot inside my helmet.

I got to the scooter shop and was shocked to see a nearly empty showroom. Scott says the scooters have been flying out the door for the last month. When I left on this journey, you could hardly walk through the showroom. Now it's looks downright lonely in there. Josh kindly offered one of their lifts for my use to change out my rear tire. Thanks Josh. I'm not sure if I know how to do some of this stuff without actually standing on my head.

For those of you who have asked about the Dyna-beads I've used to balance my tires, here's the poop. It seemed to have no effect on the rim whatsoever. Josh was concerned they might chew up the rim. What they did chew up was some rubber inside the tire, and you could see the pattern they wove inside the tire as they dynamically balanced the tire on the roll. The company that sells them says you can vacuum them out and re-use them. I think it would be a PIA, so I'll just bite the bullet and spend the extra $4 for another tiny bag-o-beads. I think they work as advertised. I put less than 7000 miles on my stock Sava tire with the adhesive lead weights, and it was horribly cupped. I now have more than 8200 miles on a front Continental Zippy with Dyna-beads, and that tire still looks new.

I decided to crash for the night at my parent's house here in Greensboro. They've already left for a family get-togther in New Bern, my destination for tomorrow. And I get to spend some quality time with my felines, who've been getting spoiled, fatter, and lazier than they normally are staying with their Grandparents, and oh, do some laundry. I pick up Guy, normally the out-going one. A couple of sniffs- 'oh it's just you' and he's outta here. Lola, normally the stand-offish one, is thrilled to see me. She sheds a significant amount of her orange fur on my black shirt in her excitement to have me pet her butt. Although I really think their definition of quality time somehow revolves around food.

A few slides from today, yeah mostly felines...

Day 33 - 240 Miles

2008-06-06T23:00:00.003-04:00

Destination: Asheville, NC

I wound my way to NC on Hwy 25. In some ways, I think I would have been better on the interstate due to the heat. It was a sweaty 97-101 degrees all day long. Very different than the Mojave Desert heat. Seems like home.

I made the mistake of going straight into downtown Asheville at Friday 5:00 pm traffic. Seems there was some graduation going on as well. It was a zoo. My fan kept turning on and off trying to beat the heat.

It's refreshing to see so many scooters here in Asheville, on the east coast. Too bad there aren't more in Raleigh. But I'm making the great mental leap with fuel prices soaring, scooter sales have to increase.

I decided to call it a night at The Mountaineer Inn. I've seen this old roadside motel for years and years on the outskirts of town. Now the town has expanded exponentially, nearly swallowing up this old landmark.

Day 32 - 3.5 Miles

2008-06-06T00:41:00.010-04:00

Destination: Shell Station for fuel

I decided to spend another day here at the farm. For the first time on this journey, I have developed very specific aches and pains in my wrists. Both wrists. I think that's pretty good for nearly 30 days in a row and over 7800 miles. I figure a day of not driving the scooter would be helpful.

Pedro ran over some wild baby turkeys while cutting hay, and managed to not kill them. They were some wiggly little creatures. I had trouble holding on to them.

I did however help with some administrative tasks here for the farm and spent the rest of the afternoon tedding about eight acres of hay, Pedro had cut yesterday. A tedding machine is this sort of rake machine with spinning tines to spread out and air out the hay before it's bailed. Sort of a fluffer. It's been more than 20 years since I've been on a tractor, and it's amazing how easy it comes back.

Pedro's wife, Maria cooked a mean plate of BBQ beef ribs for lunch, and Margie grilled up some juicy and delicious hamburgers for dinner. Thanks Maria and Margie. A tiny sliver of the moon rose above the old farm house as a colony of little chimney sweeps flew out from the chimney at dusk.

Down on the farm slideshow:

Day 31 - 247 Miles

2008-06-05T01:49:00.006-04:00

Destination: Aunt Margie's farm in Richmond, KY

Once again, hellacious storms passed through early in the morning. A quick look at the radar tells me I'm in the clear for the rest of the day. I'm lucky to be avoiding the storms. Today is the day I veer off course from Hwy 50 and truly head towards home. I haven't seen my Aunt in more than a year, and it had been way too many years since that time before.

Not too long after I turned onto Hwy 150 outside of Washington, IN, the scenery changes dramatically from vast farmland with painted barns to a tight tree canopied twisty turning road. It snakes along a creek bed, and the temperature feels much cooler, despite the heat and humidity I haven't had the pleasure of experiencing lately. The sweet smell of honeysuckle permeated the air.

Once in Kentucky, the farmland takes a picturesque turn towards opulence, I have yet to have seen on this trip. Miles and miles of well groomed pastures, bordered by creosote covered fencing perfectly aligned with the lay of the land, hold horses that likely are worth more than my total assets.

Leaving Lexington on Tates Creek Road leads me to the Valley View, KY ferry. Since 1785, it's the oldest continuously running business of record in Kentucky. Capn' Eric welcomed me aboard the paddle boat ferry and gave me a great map of all the local roads and some good recommendations for some winery tours/tasting.

Aunt Margie's farm is up a steep gravel road that I recall from my last visit was not in too good of shape. I made several visits here back in the 80's and spent a good deal of time here back then, when one of it's many personas was a sawmill among other dreams of my late Uncle Tryon. Now it's a booming Christmas tree business and pumpkin patch, along with hay, corn, and other vegetables.

I managed to get up the hill without dumping the scooter. Like I remembered from years ago, I hadn't really gotten all my stuff off the scooter, and before I know it, I'm on the back of a tractor Pedro is driving, planting rows of corn. The cicadas are here in their 17 year cycle of destruction. Their screeching sound is almost hurtful to my ears.

Much has changed since the last time I was here. But it still feels like a time capsule from when I was here back in the 80's. There's a new chicken coop, lots of critters, and the makings of a beautiful sunset looking over the memorial gazebo for my Uncle Tryon.

I didn't think I would have a big slide show today:

Day 30 - 280 Miles

2008-06-03T23:02:00.009-04:00

Destination: Olney, IL

Much of Missouri looks alarmingly familiar to parts of NC. Certainly not the sharp contrast in scenery I've been enjoying so far. Except for the Testicle Festival. I really can't imagine what it's about, but it sure breaks up the monotony. Another anti-monotonous stunt for me is to sharpen my card counting skills for the next time I'm in Tahoe. I figure counting and categorizing the dead animals on the side of the road without the help of pen and paper would be a good exercise.

Hmmm, lets see. In the first 85 miles outside of Jefferson City on Hwy 50, I encountered: 32 small furry creatures, 29 indistinguishable masses, 14 totally unrecognizable greasy spots, 11 turtles, seven armadillos, five birds, four opossums, three snakes, and one dead dog. I only counted the road kill actually on the road or paved shoulder. If it was in the dirt off the pavement, it didn't count. You gotta have rules you know. I did stop for a turtle who was high tailing across the road, I turned around, helped him across the road and he was safely on his way in a big fat hurry.

Once Hwy 50 merged onto I-44 near St. Louis, I really had to pay attention, so I quit my exercise for the day. It didn't help, I somehow crossed the great muddy river without seeing the arch. What trip would be complete without a stop at the arch. I wound my way back to town for a few pix. Lewis and Clark were mostly submerged in the flooded Mississippi River.

Olney, IL apparently is famous for a couple of clowns who released some albino squirrels around the turn of the last century. They're everywhere. The albino squirrels have the right of way on streets, and it's a crime to try and leave town with one.

I stumbled upon the Hovey Diner, famous for their hamburgers, and a local hangout for many regulars who always order the same thing. It was tasty, The Big Mike. Two grilled patties piled high with cheddar cheese and coleslaw. Hand cut french fries completed the feast. Several locals were intrigued by my adventure, and Susan, my waitress gave me a T-shirt. Thanks Susan.

Todays picture show:

Day 29 - 305 Miles

2008-06-03T00:40:00.005-04:00

Destination: I seriously considered last night trying to get to a Cardinals game by 7:30. No way.

A huge damaging thunderstorm raged through just north of Emporia this morning. I sandbagged at the hotel hoping it would continue further northeast so I could stay behind it. Breakfast at the S&S was better than dinner was last night: sausage and cheese omelet. It's a quaint local eatery with clever messages on the bathroom doors. Lots of smoke and lots of farmers.

I decided to detour off my Hwy 50 route towards the south and catch Hwy 54 to avoid the storms. I was surprised to see an Oklahoma mile marker squished on the side of the road. I didn't figure armadillos got that far up here. But there was more wildlife in store for me today.

I'd hazard a guess that turtles have a less than 10% chance of getting from one side of the road to the other alive. Those poor creatures just don't get a break. I've decided that squished turtles can be mile post markers for Eastern Kansas. In my quest to photograph some of the unfortunate mile markers, I did stop for one that was ahead of the curve. I stopped and gently took him across the road in the direction he was traveling.

I started to catch up with that nasty storm and stopped for fuel in Weaubleau, KS. Across the street the Common Ground cafe lured me in with it's advertised free WiFi. It was a hippie Jesus community cafe of The Twelve Tribes, that brewed a mean cup of tea and baked delicious cranberry muffins. They do a bang up business in organic vegetables. They were very nice to let me into the office to check the weather since the WiFi wouldn't log me in.

I haven't quite figured out why the gas stations in Eastern Kansas offer not three but five different octane grades of fuel. 86, 89, and 91 octane just aren't enough choices I guess. After being in Kansas for the last three days, the Missouri border was a welcome sight, even if squished armadillos are now the current mile markers. I've decided today is wildlife day. I have seen just today: a wild turkey, a beaver, a hawk, an eagle, a llama, goats, sheep, and cows of course. They were all alive.

After sandbagging several hours for the rain, I decided to call it a day in Jefferson City. The Super 8 motel is calling my name. I'm sick and tired of American Express making my life miserable.

Todays wildlife slideshow:

Day 28 - 275 Miles

2008-06-02T01:20:00.006-04:00

Destination: Just get the hell out of Dodge

It's laundry day in Dodge City, KS. I've always considered a laundromat to be the great equalizer. Everybody's got dirty shorts or something. From haughty ladies washing the big comforters that won't fit in the machine at home to migrant agricultural workers. I get to talking to a trucker doing laundry there about my adventures so far. Somehow the biggest ball of twine, which happens to be in Kansas comes up. I've already decided it's way far north and not really on my way to anywhere, but another local suggests I seek out the biggest ball of barbed wire. Apparently some tornado came through and rolled up about 200 miles of barbed wire. The local guy tells me it's only 30 miles up the road and surely the locals up there can tell me where it is.

First though I was encouraged to see the Boot Hill Museum and Cemetery. It's an eclectic little museum. Sort of a cross between a natural science and history museum, with live re-enactments. I think I've discovered my next Christmas gift project: wreathes made from my own hair. I can't imagine the time and patience that took for some frontier woman to make a wreath from human hair. A talking animatronic longhorn tells some story that I was just too amused at to grasp the point. They did have some cool paraphernalia from Gunsmoke. When I was a kid, I got on the set of Gunsmoke and met Sheriff Matt Dillon, got his autograph. What a great TV show.

My search for the biggest ball of something was unfruitful, but I did get a lot of funny looks from the several people I asked. I gave up and continued east on even a smaller road. Kansas is still flat, but at least there's some things to look at along the roads. I now have logged more than 7000 miles on this trip alone.

If not for the barbed wire folly, I would not have driven past the sign for the Kansas Motorcycle Museum in Marquette, KS.

Stan Engdahl was a racer and collector, and owned a motorcycle shop there. When he retired, he and his wife, LaVona gave the building to the town if they would help develop it as a museum. One wall is covered with over 600 trophies Stan alone won in his racing career spanning the 1940's to 1990's. He recently passed and his wife continues to run the museum. It really has some fascinating motorcycles from the past, but the scooter collection in the back were the most interesting to me.

I decided to stop in Emporia, KS for the night. The S&S diner was my dinner destination. Full of locals, that always look me over when I come in all dressed like the Michelin Man, but seen to get a kick out of my cross country adventures.

Todays pix:

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Day 27 - 277 Miles

2008-06-01T00:20:00.010-04:00

Destination: Farther East

Today was a blast. I followed my Cushman friends to the La Junta Community Center for biscuits-n-gravy. Tom, who seemed to be heading up this shindig warmly greeted me. Kind of seriously, he told me I was welcome to ride with them, but I'd have to ride at the back of the pack. I told him I was used to that by now. He was amused.

I got a cordial greeting from everyone, and was told the last Vespa to show up at one of their meets got toilet papered. I knew I was in for a fun day. I was one of the youngest in the room, and I'll be on AARP's radar in just a few short years.

The scooter games started right after breakfast before it got too hot. First there was riding the board, but this board was actually two ropes that were moved closer together with every pass. I made it to the third round before I was disqualified. Next up was the newspaper toss. Apparently as kids, some of these guys used to deliver newspapers on their Cushmans. All the rules seemed to bend in several directions. Last up was the slow race. Two scooters race each other to a finish line. The last one to cross the line without dumping it or putting a foot down wins.

Next up was a 70 mile circuit that took us through town, out into the country, through Rocky Ford for lunch at the Sonic Burger and on to other destinations. The pack of scooters broke into two groups so traffic trying to pass would not be so bad. Not that there was that much traffic. I blocked a few intersections for them until they got out of town, and on to the straight away. I sped past the growling scooters a few times to catch some action photos of the ride.

We stopped at a scenic outlook to the Santa Fe Trail. You could see for miles and miles. I stuck with the pack for the journey to Sonic Burger. We got almost up to 40mph one or two times there. Think Richard Farnsworth in 'The Straight Story'. You know, the guy who drives a riding lawnmower from Iowa to Wisconsin in back in 1994.

These have to be some of the finest folks around. They've come from Kansas, New Mexico, Colorado, and Utah to have some fun on their Cushmans. Some of their scooters are incredible restorations, rat bikes, hot rods, you name it. One soul popped her chain early on, and a guy with a fouled plug and sticky throttle cable made for a longer than usual lunch stop. I decided to bid farewell after lunch and continue on my journey.

Thanks to all you Cushman folks. I had a ball with you today. I hastily put together some video my digital camera takes:

Not far past Lamar, the landscape really flattens out. I found an old school house named after me, and saw my first longhorn cattle in the flesh. I figure carrying around those horns is a pain in the neck.

Kansas is well, um...flat. Sort of the anti-Deals Gap: 11 turns in 318 miles. And aromatic too: coming soon to a dinner table near you. Feed lots as far as the eye can see. Depending on which way the wind is blowing, I could sniff out a feed lot four or five miles away.

Near Cimmaron, there was a road block due to an accident ahead. Traffic was being detoured on a dirt road. The EMS guys nicely gave me another route on paved roads to the next town with a gas station. I was running perilously low on fuel. It didn't help that I saw endless wind farms far away and wanted to take a few pix. Resembling crosses in a graveyard at a distance, they majestically churn the air into electricity. I've said it before, and I'll say it again: What's the big deal with those folks in Craven County that want to put up their wind generators on their own property? I just don't get what the problem is.

I got a whiff of Dodge City about 10 miles out. I've been here a few hours now, and I don't even smell it any more.

A really big show today: