Tony Foreman

Attaque!

2008-10-23T11:09:00.001-04:00

A very exciting day in store. We're driving (Jorge Ordonez and myself) to Rioja to meet several winemakers over lunch and dinner at a couple of famous Asadors (grills). It's three hours from Madrid to wind your way across the plains of the north and up into the hills. It's grey and rainy. Well-ordered fields are dramatically broken up by big granite teeth bursting from the earth. Signs for Haro mean we are closing in on Rioja, and lunch. By the time we are in Rioja the rain has stopped and I am starved.

Our lunch is at Asador Alameda in Navarette (heart of Rioja country) with Fernando Remirez de Ganuza.

This is a charming white-tablecloth place with accommodating, unpretentious service best known for their Chuletas di Gallego. The grill here is famous for burning the short white oak charcoal from the Mediterranean (same as you see in Texas, more or less). The owners, Tomás and Esther are a team in the kitchen. The small dining room is loaded with Rioja wine industry types and a few real characters (a gentleman in a conservative suit and tie had flowing long grey hair and a pair of rhinestone-studded purple glasses that would have made Elton John think twice.

A quick rundown of the meal follows.

Fernando brought tiny Ortolans that were flamed with brandy and cooked in oil with fresh garlic. Then Esther's famous croquetas and two kinds of Murcia (blood pudding) - the one from Burgos having rice making it a little crispy. Next, calamari from the plancha with a sauce from the ink and vegetable stock. Finally Chuletas (aged rib steaks on the bone) from Galician beef (Gallega) cooked over charcoal by Tomás. The owners are lovely people, Esther does all the other cooking and Tomás does the grilling that they are famous for. Finally some cheeses for the more mature ‘01 and Leche Fritto to finish us off.

About the wines of Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza. I have to comment on two things: 1) The harvest, sorting and cellar activities are fanatically clean and orderly; and 2) It was quite cool even in mid-afternoon in the sun and likely frost in the evening - leading me to believe this will not only be a "fresh" vintage (the cool nights at harvest raising the acids) but I am concerned about the dropping sugars and the bit of inconsistency of the grapes I saw in the bunches. Only someone as fanatical in sorting as Fernando will be strong in a year like this. A typical practice for this house that's unusual elsewhere is that the tips of the bunches (which are much tighter clustered and therefore have less ripe skins and more likely to be diseased) are fermented separately and kept from the gran vin.

Tasting notes from lunch:

‘03 Vina Croqueta. Closed and a bit chunky. Good acids. Needs 6 years min. 89

‘04 Reserva. Has that Latour-ish walnut palate and balance. Very fine indeed. May not live forever. Charming and complex young Tempranillo. 95

‘05 Reserva. Long-term project. Built for time. Will seriously reward cellaring. Great tannins, ripeness, acid. Lock away for a least a decade. 95++

‘05 Transnocho. Less time in wood so fruitier, simpler and showing its alcohol more. This is a bladder-pressed wine. 91

‘06 Barrel Sample Reserva. Mineral, edgey and crunchy tannin. Very graphite. 92-94

‘03 Maria. Zoom. Forward and gutteral. Deep and lusty as is the best of the year's character. Some overripe characteristics. 94

‘04 Maria. Rich and complete. Not the immediate appeal of the Reserva. Punchier and firmer. May prefer in 5 years and this score will seem conservative. 93+

‘01 Reserva. At first very closed and dumb. Not giving but rich. Tobacco tannins at first. Opening with air. Expression becomes quite satisfying and the tannins turn to silky plum skins. Mineral and floral character back up the fruit.

LIFE’S MOMENTS

2008-10-20T16:58:00.002-04:00

I recall being fascinated by food from my earliest childhood. My great-grandmother was the most deft, generous and comforting of southern cooks. Her fried chicken, pickles, greens, "Goulash", rice, walnut cake et al were what I dreamt about all week looking forward to dinner Saturday afternoon at her house.

My mother and grandmother both had African-American cooks come in to their homes to prepare their specialties for parties. I recall strongly helping prepare (standing on a chair, probably 5 years old) an all-time favorite baked clam canapé that I still imagine tasting today.

The truth is the people preparing the food and serving the food, polishing the silver, mixing the drinks and really hosting the guests is who I related to immediately. When I started working in kitchens and later dining rooms and behind bars (read as you wish) I was there first and foremost for the staff that were working with me and later the staff working for me. We shared this great secret of what went on before the curtain was drawn up and after it fell at the end of the evening.

A few years (read decades) has taught me other things in the especially sneaky way that time does.

Recently I was leaving Petit Louis early in the day after checking in with the prep staff and sous chef that run the morning operation. I noticed a regular guest on Roland Avenue laboring through a morning jog. It seemed to me that he seemed a few years older than I last recalled. I was compelled to think about his visits to my places over the years beginning with Savannah 13 years ago. As I thought about all of the life events he'd shared with me, I was stunned: dating his wife, a birthday party she threw for him at Savannah, first visits to Charleston after they married, business success, news of family illness and then death, his wife's illness and successful treatment, sale of his business, many visitors and friends from overseas, family holidays and on and on. I was just amazed by the intimacy of our relationship. What an unsuspecting honor. I was and am daunted by the place that our restaurants hold in the lives of our guests.

I feel as though I began my professional work for my own pleasure. Then it became as important or even more pleasurable to watch my staff enjoy success and accomplishment. Now the pleasure of our guests moves me the most. What do you know; I may grow up despite myself.

Political Juice

2008-09-08T11:15:00.002-04:00

Just like everyone else I have politics on the brain this year. My poor staff is confined to not talking about the topic in the dining rooms (I do know there are a few cheaters). As a gigantic dork (term used to express full realization of geekdom) about wine, I have, of course, come up with metaphorical wine representations of the candidates (In a year where you have these more extreme types it's much easier - it would have been a dull, dull tasting in 2000 and 2004, let me tell you).

I'll name the wines and you can guess who I feel they represent (I am making them all red so you can't say I am sexist)…

One candidate is clearly a Spanish wine for me. One made in a very modern style with a very broad-base appeal. 2005 Numanthia. Thick - almost syrupy, heady, spicy with rich smooth tannins. There is a serious oak veneer that polishes the entry. This robust wine shows potential for age but there have only been a few vintages produced and it is difficult to say if it will become more complex or if it will become charmless, hollow and monolithic as the years pass and the bloom comes off the young fruit.

Another is one of the Cabernets from California from the 1970's - perhaps the 74 Burgess Vintage Selection. This wine has always shown body and power. Time has taken some of the attack from its substantial tannins, but they are still noticeable and fine (but not very fine). The dusty black fruit shows the power of the place where the wine was grown in relatively unassuming fashion. Even at this age it has years to go to resolve its structure.

Tickets are rounded out with ...Etude Pinot Noir - any year just about. Very consistent and reliable. Tony Soter always makes this wine for consumers, not for serious wine folk. Cherry and cola notes lace this medium weight punchy/fruity pinot.

...And also...an early 90's Zinfandel from Ravenswood (at about age 5) 1992 Belloni vineyard. Robust and full of vigor, unrefined and exciting. Showing some alcoholic heat. Very expressive while not highly complex. Has the fruit and structure to age - not produced from a grape that often shows greater complexity as time passes.

"Do you want to kill a baby together?" and other Wine Translations

2008-06-30T18:05:00.001-04:00

When to Drink Wine?

The answer to the age-old question is easy - when you want to.

I always advise guests/clients/friends to buy quantities of wines that they like. If one is buying wine to have at the house for the front porch or back yard it doesn't pay to be short.

The why's and wherefore's are varied.

Most wine (new and old world) is made to be consumed young, when it’s fresh and full of lively fruit characteristics (one hopes).

Significant quantities of structure in the wine and patience (not to mention appropriate storage) are required to age wine to its benefit. So one has to know why - why age the stuff?

Some wines from a limited number of places on the earth will begin to reveal especially pleasurable, secondary aromas and flavors as well as more sensual textures as they age. Some very special wines from specific places have the ability to provide transcendental experiences for the patient, focused and hedonistic taster. This is only true for wines that have sufficient structural elements (a combination and a specific balance of tannin, acid, alcohol and/or sugar) and that are from a site of exceptionally expressive potential.

I recall drinking the 2003 Chateau Cheval Blanc last year in Primo Franco's garden after him asking "do you want to kill a baby together?". Unusual translation - accurate question. It needed much more time to become its full self, but he could not wait to crack one and see what was in there. After, he promised 2012 was the next bottle. At that pace he'll have the last bottle when it turns 64 - it should still live and be very interesting by then. (It may be his kids drinking it actually).

Bordeaux is also the ultimate long-term aging wine. A few Burgundies and Hermitage have close to the same capabilities as do Barolos and some Riojas and Ribera del Dueros in Spain.

Prime sites in California are capable of very long ageing wines - especially from Cabernet Sauvignon - but you have to nail down specifics in order to choose one that will actually become more, and not less interesting as it ages.

Get Your Knudel On

2008-06-18T14:00:00.000-04:00

Pretshof...

There is this amazing little restaurant (and farm, really) set in a high Alpine valley maybe half an hour's ride from Brixen in the Sudtirol just south of the Austrian border. The first time I was told about this restaurant it was referred to as the "secret" restaurant and not by it's name, Pretshof.

It's always fun to build a place up and still have your guests blown away with the experience. The drive to the restaurant sets the stage: one switchback after another in second gear climbing from one elderflower-strewn pasture to another higher pasture for fifteen minutes or so. We went past all of the animals and pens that were about to make up our lunch. After you find the parking for the place, you walk past the cows and the cheese works. Even with the amazing views it becomes apparent that you've arrived in a pretty darn self-sustaining restaurant and you begin to wonder just how long it's been this way...and then you recognize that this is the real origin of the restaurant business. The first time I visited here I had that epiphany. There is a great eternal truth of hospitality implied in a place like this. It is very easy to take in all the layers and layers of work and craft that go into "a nice lunch."

This place is an expanded and converted traditional Alpine farmhouse with a small bar and probably 50 dining seats indoors. Outside there is another dozen or so. Everything is rough-hewn pine and various local fruitwoods - walls, floors, timbers, banquettes. The origin of the place is (pure guess) c. 1840. There is no shortage of both Catholic and pagan figurines about. Seems they want to be covered, regardless.

Karl is the owner, chef, cellar master et al. In the States you would guess he was a retired defensive-end from the Buffalo Bills. (His hands are large enough to grasp most human heads like a cantaloupe). He's neither effusive or cold. He's Tirolese. Appropriate, no-nonsense and efficient and not without a certain style. He still always wears an apron in the dining room - I swear it's tied at the same height as my shoulders. I'm guessing people don't get out-of-hand here.

I chat with Karl about getting us started. They do fabulous cured meats, so he sends us multiple plates of cured venison, capriolo, dried venison, dried beef, beef carpaccio, speck, older speck, salame (pork and veal) and ridiculous venison salame. Also he sends the mountain mixed milk cheese they make (cow, goat 9 months). Everyone's favorite thing is this delicious spread of sorts - made with fresh farm cheese mixed with what he calls "grey cheese" both of which they make. This grey cheese is an aromatic and spicy blue of sorts. With all this business we quaff bottles of Hirtzberger Gruner Veltliner Smaragd 2005. (Marvelously fresh, white peach and green tea). Great start.

Next we organized dueling Knudels!!(Knudels are sort of dumplings from God) The first with Nettles from the farm - these had a marvelous herby freshness yet were still decadent served in puddles of brown butter; the next was with their mountain cheese mixed in. Super rich, yet not heavy. This was a truly decadent Primi...but then they tried to knock us out with Agnolotti filled with pork. All of these were served with a Hirtzberger Riesling 2001 that was a stunner; Karl's strong recommendation and the top white of the trip. Austrian whites can be breathtaking. It had the body, presence, freshness, complexity and reflexive delicacy to provide a marvelous counterpoint to the Knudels and sustain the course.

We had all chosen a variety of different main dishes: Roasted Ox, Pork chops, Lamb, Venison. But maybe the most surprising was what Karl described as "hamburger, their style" in his halting English (about on par with my Italian). This turned out to be a beef Knudel - death by Knudel for those that partook. We tasted a variety of reds with these dishes: a top-notch Lagrein from Joseph Mayr 2005 Riserva (while really well-made it cemented that grape as the Petite Sirah of Italy for me) and we had the 05’ Kurni - a truly singular 100 percent Montepulciano from Le Marche (crazy extracted, nuanced...needed an hour of decanting just to get it to raise an eyebrow at you) and a 96’ Barbaresco Gallina di Neive from Giacosa (lovely, perfumed, firm and classical - just beginning to drink now - funny for that to be the most feminine wine on the table.

For sweets we had a local Tirolese specialty: Krapfen...marvelously crispy little fried pastry filled with fresh cheese and honey served warm and dusted with sugar. A few solid espressos later and we were ready to hurtle back down the mountain and on to our afternoon appointments.

The Knudels had their expected effect - my crew was dozing by the time we got on the autostrada, heads lolling like ragdolls.

A handful of restaurants that are must-visits in Italy

2008-06-06T15:49:00.001-04:00

I'll do these region by region.

I've just returned from leading a group of my staff through a relatively intensive (albeit quick) exploration of several regions of the north of Italy. I'll list below a few places by region and some of the dishes and wines to look for when you visit.

Piemonte

Gener Neuv (Asti)
Lungo Tanaro Dei Pescatori, 4
14100 Asti (AT), Italy
Telephone: 39 0141 557 270
Website: www.generneuv.it
This place has been a husband (Sommelier) and Wife (Chef) operation since the 60's. The dining room is elegant, classic Piemonte, the cooking traditional and the cellar superb. The Carne Cruda - raw milk-fed veal chopped to order with Ligurian Olive Oil and fresh Robiola cheese is decadent as is the Agnolotti. The Faraona (Guinea Fowl) is the specialty as a Secondi.

Trattoria della Posta (Monforte d'Alba)
Localita Sant' Anna
12065 Monforte d'Alba, Italy
Telephone: 39 0173 78120
Website: www.trattoriadellaposta.it
Fantastic country hillside setting. Formal but comfortable dining room. Momma remains in the kitchen. Service is not so speedy - so expect to take your time. The Tajarin (Tagliollini) with Ragu was the best of the 5 versions that I had on this trip - ragu was porky and rich, pasta was eggy and light and super tiny. There are mature Barolos on this list at very fair prices. Their cheese cart was also well done. Great porch for a grappa and a cigar after lunch.

La Cantinetta (Barolo)
Via Roma, 33
12060 Barolo, Italy
Telephone: 39 0173 56198
A cozy, simple place with a little bustle. Unremarkable decor, but quick informed service. Do ask the owner for a variety of classic antipasti. All are excellent. Good variety of wines at all price ranges. Bit of a bargain overall. The Panna Cotta may change your life, by the way.

Osteria Veglio (La Morra)
Fraz. Annunziata, 9
12064 La Morra (CN), Italy
Website: www.osteriaveglio.com
Great first night dinner. Relaxed, lovely country setting. Great terrace with a view. Short menu of really well-executed classic dishes. Great Carne Cruda and all locally raised meat. Lamb and veal with terrific flavor. List specialized in La Morra producers - so lots of modern and softer Baroli. Very fairly priced.

Recent tasting notes

2008-05-30T14:02:00.002-04:00

Brunello di Montalcino, Salvioni 2000
This is a remarkable wine from a fabled producer from a vintage with a "poor" reputation. Consumers in general put much too much stock in general sensationalized reputations of certain years and of course the same is true on the negative side.

Salvioni's 2000 boasts deep, dark cedar, thyme and dried lingonberry aromatics. A dense, silky palate has plenty of fine ripe tannins. The wine is fresh and has great aromatic lift in the mouth (the true prize character for Brunello). Drinking now and for the next decade in its prime. I tend to disagree with some in that I prefer Brunello typically 7-15 years of age and not older. It dries out too much for me on the palate.

These two sleepers from a little-known village in Burgundy at the foot of the Corton hill: a red - Ladoix 1er Cru “La Micaude” Domaine Capitain-Gagnerot 2005...and a white - Ladoix 1er Cru “Les Gréchons et Foutrières” Domaine Capitain-Gagnerot 2005. The red is from what has quickly become a legendary high quality vintage for red burgundy. The problem with this year is that you can't drink (or surely should not) the top wines for another decade at least. I strongly believe the best wines will not peak for 20 or so years. So what in the world do you consume for the next 18 years (besides the lovely 2000 Cotes de Nuits Grand crus and then the superb 2002 village, then 1er crus...and then lovely 99 Cotes de Beaunes, etc...). The Ladoix 1er I mention is actually as open and expressive as a baby. Lovely crushed red berry fruit with a granite and talcum spine and long floral trills in a medium-bodied, juicy frame make this a very "come hither" offering. Price to quality ratio is superb.

2005 white Burgundy is not a year that is well understood. Recently the 02's, 04's and 06's have all been classically built but ripe, juicy and friendly whites that show their character and give pleasure as young wines. The 05's are much harder to get to know. Sort of like that Professor in college who was seemed stand-offish, but was clearly brilliant. Truth be told he was just kind of shy. With a little time or coaxing the 2005 top wines are remarkably expressive and richly structured for long term cellaring. This Ladoix comes from two vineyards at the base of the Corton hill and has great mineral depth, sweet yellow tree fruits and many layers. Deep hued and imbued with dark flavors, spice and toast this wine will not serve with fish. Its job at the table is with white meat and strong cheese. Do decant this wine when serving. This baby Corton-Charlemagne will be lovely for at least the next 10-12 years and is a fantastic buy.

White versus Red

2008-04-25T13:42:00.003-04:00

Lose your Grape color hang-ups....

For some years I have told friends and guests "white wine is necessary...only to prepare the palate for red wine." While I was always joking, I kind of wasn't. White wines get a lot of disrespect in hedonistic-leaning, macho wine criticism circles. But there are some real purposes for white...a short list:

White Burgundy and White Meat
We often race into red for chicken, guinea fowl, rabbit, pork, etc... Most of these meats can do very well with structured whites from Burgundy. The richer and fattier the meat the most dense and powerful the white. e.g. Rabbit - Chablis; chicken breast - Mâcon; chicken legs – Pouilly-Fuissé; guinea fowl - Chassagne Montrachet; pork - mature Puligny Montrachet (or Pinot Gris from Alsace or mature dry Vouvray from the Loire).

Whites with Cheese
Often it seems my guests want cheese after a meal as an excuse to have another glass of red. I absolutely understand and share that feeling all the time. Maybe it's counter-intuitive but truly, whites are usually more successful with most cheese. Both dry and sweet can work. Sweeter ones (Sauternes, TBA, etc) pair well with blue cheeses. Off-dry whites (Vouvray, Alsace VT) that are structured are good for minerally and fatty cheeses from the Jura and the chèvres from the Loire and the Southwest - and cheeses in that style from other areas. Stronger and more spicy, runny and aromatic (read: stinky!) cheeses pair very well with younger robust white Burgundy.

Asparagus, Artichokes and other Strong Vegetables
These vegetables are just anathema to all reds - it turns them into V8. Asparagus wants Soave or Sancerre, Artichokes want Trebbiano or Grenache Blanc. Tomatoes are tricky because of their acid. While they do well with some red grapes they usually do best with dry rosés - acid, fruit but much less tannin.

Cold Supper
In warm weather I love (and I expect I'm not alone) to just organize a plate of prosciutto or Jamon Iberico, or Salame etc. with good bread, simple cheese and a salad of whatever is in season and sit outside. For this there are any number of fruity-crisp, crunchy, gutsy whites. Look at Rueda, Torrontes, Jurancon, Grechante among others.

What do Points Taste Like Anyway?

2008-04-11T16:45:00.000-04:00

I may be the hardest person you'll ever know to please with inexpensive wines. It is absolutely not because I demand some sort of pedigree on the label or prefer to spend more. The truth is quite the contrary. Spending less is great for me, but tasting less is not. I'm only going to get so many glasses of wine in this life and I am never sure which will be the last one. God help me if I've just finished some "hot" pinot that tastes like a cross between cough syrup and vanilla custard and I get squashed by that fateful bus. No way. My last glass needs to have a few characteristics or I'm just not going to drink it.

(My fussiness list)

Wine has to:
Taste like it was made from fruit and not bottled at Coca-Cola. Nor can it have bits of dirt floating in it, tree bark, wood chips etc; no dry wine should have the heat and mule kick of port, either.

Taste like:
It was grown on a farm, in a place - have a variety of distinctive accents, nuances, flavors and aromas that cascade in layers and make all the difference in giving real identity to wine. Some wines are like a clown strumming a banjo that's out of tune, but really hard. Others are smooth and swing as Count Basie's band in its heyday - all the expression, control and level of detail, plus civilized sex appeal.

Be served:
At the appropriate moment in it's life where the wine can express itself. Far too many people who love to drink wine keep choosing wine from lists and shelves based on points. What do points taste like anyway? A wine that's meant to peak at age 15 and be fantastic for another 15 years is far too often consumed when it's 4 years old and hasn't even begun to develop secondary aromas and flavors yet. Just imagine the world's best 10-year-old tennis player. Destined to be the greatest ever - we think. Would you rather buy tickets to see him play now or watch the world's number 5 and 9 square off at Roland Garros? Easy choice, right?

Wine has to be:
Stored and served at an attractive temperature in some sort of clean, flattering stemware. Worst case scenario, follow an easy rule: the 20 minute rule - take your white wine out of the refrigerator at least 20 minutes before you want to serve it - put your red in 20 minutes before you want to serve it. I prefer most wines to start at cellar temperature - 55˚F. Most whites I'll hold there or cool slightly for lighter, brighter varietals like Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc. Most reds I'll want to come up in temperature slightly in the glass.

Top places in the world for value at the moment...and this does NOT mean that all of the wines are good. It means that there remain good values if you look hard and are discriminating.

Argentina - this is starting to change, but there remain superb Malbecs and Bonardas available for a song.

Chile - values here are in cooler climate varietals, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc.

Spain - lots of unknown terroirs 15 years ago are making really appealing wines - Yecla, Calatayud, Carineña, Valdeorras, Rueda et al. There remain pricier but superb wines that are super-ageable from the Ribera del Duero and Rioja that could be really cornerstones for a budding collector.

Italy - has to be the most massive, complex and unnecessarily risky place to buy. Best purchases are in all regions, but now I look to Umbria (Bordeaux varietals and Grechetto), Puglia, Molise, (Negroamaro, Primitivo) Abruzzo (Trebbiano and Montepulciano) and the Alto Adige and Trentino (Pinot Bianco, dry Gewϋrztraminer, un-oaked Chardonnay; Pinot Noir and Teroldego Rotaliano).

France - the Rhône, Languedoc, and the Côtes du Roussillon for reds from Syrah, Grenache, Mouvedrè and Carignan. Especially new AOC's like Tautavel, Montpeyroux or Sablet. The Loire for whites from Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc and Mâcon for Chardonnay. The greatest value in France remains in the profound and age-worthy whites of Alsace. Unlike the rest of France, the prices have remain comparatively steady over the last 25 years.

France, Italy and Spain are certainly affected by our weak dollar - but still have excellent values in lesser know areas.

"Coulda - woulda - shoulda"

2008-04-07T16:57:00.000-04:00

These three words are about the worst to say. Energy spent on past events is almost always a waste. In retrospect, the first decade of Charleston was a race to make the wine list a great, broad worldwide offering. In the process, as Cindy's personal cooking style and the restaurant matured, I learned where our big areas of focus should be. In the next decade my mission will be to add depth of mature wines in these areas. If I had known a few years ago what I know now...I guess we'll see where the next big opportunities to build the cellar will come from.

Missed Calls and Stands not made:

2000 Red Burgundy (Cotes de Nuits) I loved so many of these wines on release I was afraid to buy them to cellar them for the restaurants. I thought they were too charming and simple. What a fool. I covet the best ones and am always on the prowl for them in restaurants in France. Perfect restaurant wines - especially the Grand Crus.

1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. These wines were so charming young that even though I'd bought about 200 cases I never held them back for the cellar. The best of these wines will improve for another decade and hold for another 10-20 years. Jeez. I've got only a smattering left on lists.

1994 California Cabs. While not all of these wines are great there are an awful lot of really top-flight wines for near and long term drinking. I was so bothered by the price hikes from ‘91, ‘92 and ‘93 that I let it color my judgment. The best wines were fabulous and every year after the prices accelerated in growth. Araujo was 28.50 wholesale that year...

Every time I create a new program (most recently Cinghiale) I am forced to look really objectively at all the others. Each project always builds focus and quality in the others - because I hate saying "coulda - woulda - shoulda".

Estoy Bloginando

2008-04-02T10:35:00.000-04:00

I've just returned from Catalonia, where Cindy and I took Michael Costa (Executive Chef), Stephanie Piland (GM) and Tiffany Haleamau (Assistant Sommelier) from the Pazo team, along with Dana Curry from Bin 604's management staff. Our goal was for our crew to be able to channel personally what was my inspiration - or at least an important part of it - for Pazo; namely, soulful Catalan cooking, wines and lifestyle.

This corner of Spain may be one of the world's hottest places for highly technical and fantasy cooking but at its roots, Catalan food is based on unique culinary resources. The culture is extremely food aware and has a high quality expectation without any of the extreme fussiness that can be off-putting to some in other intense food cultures. Both in Barcelona and on the countryside, excellent cooking can be found.

A few highlights if you visit:

Places to stay - in the countryside Mas deTorrent is in a lovely tiny village east of Girona. Rooms are decorated beautifully, rich but comfortable in style. The original stone farmhouse is 400 years old. The grounds and spa are impeccable and there are two restaurants doing more or less fancy Catalan food. In this location you are not far from many Michelin-starred restaurants around Girona and Figueres either. They may have the best breakfast in Europe (that I've seen).

In Barcelona the Claris is a modern hotel with a ton of interesting art in a fantastic location. In season there is a rooftop pool and bar. The rooms are nicely furnished but urban-sized.

Dining -

El Celler de Can Roca is Joan Roca's two star Michelin restaurant in Girona that does three star food in my estimation in lovely modern environs with a super cellar. Service is not up to the rest.

Can Bosch is in the seaside town of Cambrills an hour south of Barcelona. Simple classic impeccable seafood is the mainstay of the menu with another whole list of creative dishes and rice available. The wine list is excellent and very fairly priced for the quality. Also the most informed sommelier I dealt with in Catalonia is here, Manel Subirà Pociello. Also in this town is a more purely old-school Catalan seafood place Joan Gatell. Their simple renditions of Clams in Sherry Vinegar and Spiny Lobster have been amongst the happiest dishes I have ever consumed.

Mas Pau is just outside of Figueres and is set in a remarkable environ: 14th century stone farm meets the set of some David Niven film from 1962. Excellent cooking especially Bacalao, Fideus Negra and of course Iberian Pig. The wine list is good, but do not expect the vintage to be correct. They have a lovely outdoor space for a cigar and a brandy after a meal.

Blog-a-Dog Continued...

2008-03-19T15:20:00.001-04:00

The meal with the Dogs was one classic dish after the other with some very interesting pairings. The first seated hors d'oeuvre was a poached quail's egg in rabbit aspic with sweet leeks and slivers of Perigord truffle. The item truly looked like jewelry on the plate. The great pleasure of it was bursting the yolk and having it act as the sauce for the truffle-perfumed aspic. I provided a 1976 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru for the dish, it was remarkable together. The richness of the dish balanced the austerity of the noble, mature white and the remaining fruit enlivened the communing of the minerals in the wine and the truffle's earthy and generous flavor.

Prodigal Dog lambasted Knuckles for the assignment he was given: providing wine for the Rabbit Consommé. It's not something you would typically do - cold wine with hot soup. At any rate, it came off pretty well. He and International put Rhone Ranger whites on the table including a super-rich and detailed Sine Qua Non blend. The soup had a sweet, delicate and intense rabbit flavor and the garnish included more truffle and Crepes snipped tableside.

Finally, it was time for some red wine. Iron Dog had provided us a few bottles of Jacky Truchot's fantastically detailed and hedonistic Clos de La Roche 1999 for little Golden Quail Roasted in Pastry with Green Grapes and a Natural Reduction Sauce made from the Quail wings. While this wine is still very young, it is showing very, very well owing to the gently extracted style of wines the Truchot makes.

Next were Beef Tournedoes (Filet Mignon) Henri IV - meaning garnished with an Artichoke bottom and Béarnaise Sauce tableside. A meat stock reduction deepened the dish considerably. Wines for this had varying degrees of success. Our guest had brought a 2000 La Mondotte (very ungettable bottle of Saint Emilion) which seemed like a barrel sample and was not expressive. To me, it was almost undrinkable at this point in time. It will be fantastic in 35 years I believe. Mr. Big J had brought a magnum of 1990 Bosquet des Papes which showed great fruit, breadth and depth and would perform really well for lamb or maybe pork but with this dish, it was not satisfactory to me. I had a bottle of 1969 Richbourg from Domaine de la Romanee-Conti opened. This showed great detail and gained power and even some primary fruit expression with air. Big burgundy - when drinking - is remarkably nice with lean beef like this dish. The details of the wine are shown in great relief against the dish and the fine grain of the tannins is sufficient for the fat of the cut. No one seemed to mind my presumptive addition.

The nicest aspect of this meal - after having many "fashion show" tastings - was the effort and focus on nailing the wine for the dish. I hope we'll have other hosts working in this method.

Blog-a-Dog Part Deux

2008-03-17T13:07:00.000-04:00

Arrayed for us in the bar at Charleston was a tower of shellfish: malpeque oysters, chilled mussels and lobster, which had been decimated by the other monkeys before I arrived. There were several sauces including fresh mayonnaise with saffron that was amazing with the mussels. A dozen was not enough. Superb pâté, a galantine, and a duck terrine with foie gras garnish rounded out the goodies. We always begin with champagne - not our best line-up this time - with Knuckles hosting one only expects so much on the wine side. I'll give him credit though; this was shaping up as a very fun theme.

We moved to the table and as per usual there are certain epicenters of energy and balancing oasis of calm. I typically sit near Philosopher Dog (a glib and presumptive source of hot wind, conservatism, hastily-drawn conclusions and narrow 1988 neckties). The spot is titled "the Hot Corner" by said Dog, for punishment is swift and severe for the poor sucker that sits between us. His ability to loudly, confidently and often incorrectly overstate his case is balanced by my oversized appetite for all things conflict.

Iron Dog and Mr. Big J would be the calmer, more reasonable wine consuming members. You can expect good wine, and limited comments from these two. Want more snarky comments? Then give a lousy wine. They will quickly point fingers at purveyors of swill - like Philosopher Dog and Knuckles (Knuckles is referenced as such due to his Jersey roots, hairy knuckles and working dog approach).

Scarfmaster, Prodigal Dog and International Man of Leisure are sort of a miss-matched set. They are always a free-wheeling corner of the table and seem to self-manage. When Scarfmaster gets wound up, Prodigal Dog will zing him. When Prodigal Dog misbehaves, Scarfmaster will call him on the carpet publicly. Then, of course, Prodigal Dog typically wets on it. International tries to smooth over his miss-deeds with the rest of us, but the other two will grab him by the scruff of the neck and thrash him deservedly. As I said, self-managed. Very entertaining.

Our In-house Counsel is retained each dinner with a massive (dollar a head) retainer. He is quiet, well-attired and pretends that we all believe he is wise. Clearly the son of a preacher. We have all seen his dance in tribute to 1990 La Chappelle Hermitage a few years ago. No one is buying this demure stuff.

Our Dog most likely to be tardy thinks he's a movie star and as such will just refer to him as Hollywood. He's in the wine trade, very congenial and does a good job of balancing some of the aggressive energy from the Hot Corner. I do not know if he has realized that we know he has spent years perfecting his sexy smoking techniques for between courses.

Tonight the last Dog to arrive has come right from the plane. He is our designated joke-teller and the comedian against whom all of our guests (they are forced to stand and tell a joke) are measured. Apropos as this Cowboy is our least tall member. And Cowboy he shall be as he gave a "Cowboy" themed dinner years ago (was sort of scared where he was going with that one - clearly Brokeback Mountain had not come out yet).

To be continued…

Blog-a-Dog

2008-03-12T10:29:00.004-04:00

I typically do not write about particular meals at my restaurants as I am not a big fan of in-house "plugging." At the same time, my wife would most likely tell you I am probably the most difficult person she ever has to cook for (other than herself, of course!). All of this build-up leads me to what I wanted to blog about: the really remarkable meal and wines we had at our most recent Dogs of Wine dinner at Charleston. The dinner had an Escoffier culinary theme and wines to match.

A few words of introduction about this particular "tasting" group. For the past six years or so, eleven of us gather to celebrate food and wine in an unusual fashion. This is a group of a few gentlemen in the wine/restaurant business as well as relatively accomplished professionals from wide-ranging fields. Requirements for membership are that after your invitation to join you must bring superb wine of the types assigned to you by the host of an event, you consistently appear in attendance, you are honest at the table, what is heard at the table travels no further, and when it is your turn, you organize and underwrite an entertaining and satisfactory wine-focused dinner party, and if you have to miss an event, you send an entertaining substitute and top-notch wine in your stead.

That written, it is often a meal of great food, and rare and interesting wine consumed by well-dressed fellows behaving as though in a locker room.
Lord help the timid guest.

To be continued...

Beaune-o-licious!

2008-02-27T14:20:00.001-05:00

So here we are: Groundhog Day in Burgundy. I return to the same places day after day for the same killer dishes (I did skip in between sometimes in hopes of embarrassing myself a wee bit less). I'm sure there are perfect three-star Michelin experiences to be had - in my opinion I've been to some in the region and found them wanting on some level, though I've not visited Lameloise or Georges Blanc so I am not fully informed. There are reputed one-stars in Beaune and nearby, none of which have knocked me out. Here's my list of what to do where:

Ma Cuisine (Beaune) - Fabienne and Pierre Escoffier's place is very straightforward. Simple regional menu, stupidly rich with a fairly-priced cellar and no-nonsense service. Pampered? No. Does Pierre know his cellar well? Yup. The Sweetbread Terrine Garnished with Foie Gras and Pistachio is fabulous, the Crispy Spiced Pigeon I like even more than Guy Julien's at Beaugraviere (how do they get birds this fatty?!), the Demi-Coquelet Rôti is perfect. Drink older Macon with the Terrine, Côtes de Nuits Grand Cru (maybe Clos de Vougeot?) With the Pigeon and a Puligny 1er cru with the chicken (+/- 7-10 yrs old).

Chez Guy (Gevrey Chambertin). The room is sort of oddly modern in an old rustic feeling town and the style of plating is modern-ish. I dine here specifically for three things: Jambon Persille, which is executed really beautifully and is great with either white or fruity younger wines; the Lentil Soup garnished with melting Foie Gras, and the Joues de Boeuf (beef cheeks) braised in Gevrey Chambertin for 12 hours - this dish wants older wines from the village. The list has a great concentration in wines from growers in town.

Caveau des Arches (Beaune) is built in an old wine cellar in the ramparts in Beaune. The room is charming, service solicitous yet relaxed, and the cellar is broad and very rich. This is the place to open a bottle from a big year and bounce it off of a Charolais Entrecôte Grillée.

Le Gourmandin (Beaune) is a casual place and can be a bit touristy in warmer weather they say. I go for the Steak Tartare, Pommes Frites (fried in Lard, rah) and green salad plate - great quick lunch. The Charolais Beef of the region is chopped to order and the balance of the dish is superb. Have this with a zesty, oaky ‘04 white 1er cru or a juicy ripe ‘03 or ‘05 red from Givry or the southern Cote de Beaune. Oh, and the Gougères are marvelous, tasty and the size of a hand grenade. A perfect start.

2006 Burgundy

2008-02-20T17:15:00.001-05:00

Preliminary tasting last January from Barrel and this January from bottle (for the most part) has shown this vintage to be strong and immensely useful. The 2005 red vintage yielded big, rich and ripe wines replete with abundant tannin and appropriate acidity. Wines that will be charming because of their fruit...but...for God's sake put them in the cellar. They need significant time to really show the greatness in the bottle. I do not mean 3 years. I mean 10 for Premier Crus and 15 for Grand Crus to begin to show their quality. The '06's behind them are ripe and charming and much more supple, less tannic and will drink at least 5 years earlier at peak in the same wines. Probably at the same time as the 02's begin to show their stuff. For the restaurants the 06's will help us put some of the top 05's to sleep.

As a side note I have noticed more bass notes from 03's (those that were from good wines from this very inconsistent year). This means that many of them are about to go to sleep I believe and will reawaken at various rates as even more dense, throaty wines with Châteauneuf-du-Pape - like functionality as they peak.

Una Notte di Amore!

2008-02-20T17:12:00.002-05:00

Valentine's night has just passed. The evening is always one of the more interesting of the working year for me as I am always fascinated with people and their behaviors, and I am always a bit uplifted in the way guests throw themselves into the holiday.

Of course the couples who've spent many Valentine's together (we had a 48th Anniversary of a Valentine’s Day wedding last night at Cinghiale). They always have subtle, well-coordinated outfits - the scarlet vest under the tweed jacket for him, the rubies and the black shift with the soft pink cashmere wrap for Madame. They have a ceremonial and comfortable way of conducting their romance.

We see the star-struck first Valentine couples who have newly discovered who they are together and their amazement at their comfort in one another. They are supremely confident in their role in the evening's film and engage all around them in their almost bubbly contentment. Tonight they have a first-ever bottle of Barbaresco and with great effort and good fortune will tell their grandchildren about the importance of these wines on special evenings.

The young couples that have not yet sorted out their dance steps are so attracted to one another and so earnest in their efforts to please may be the most charming. They are of course, the most volatile. You can always count on dessert or even main course packed to go for the more amorous of these that are having a great and clearly accelerating evening. A few of these also blow up and yield the same to-go result for us.

I have (I guess obviously) a great fondness for this holiday. So many people we see for the first time and so many at their best.

Well fed, happy and satisfied

2008-02-13T17:40:00.001-05:00

I feel remiss; it's been too long since I've written. I have made a commitment to write each Friday as a part of my regular routine - so many people have been asking for installments.

With the opening of Cinghiale followed by the holidays and then my January trip to France with key Charleston and Petit Louis staff, I have found I do have a few stories to tell.

Here's a brief story about managing expectations and oneself in regards to restaurant visits - and also about treatment.

In France we were 7 in total traveling from the Southern Rhone Valley up the valley and eventually to Beaune in a day. About mid-way is Côte-Rôtie and we had visits with Ogier before lunch and Jamet (fabulous wines) after lunch - along with a long philosophical discussion on what is wrong with the modern wine business and wine-making for critics.

Lunch was at La Pyramide, which had been recently redone and apparently had an innovative young chef. The restaurant has two Michelin stars. If you know French culinary lore this was the restaurant of Fernand Point (who was considered the "Godfather" of sorts of modern French food in the 50's and 60's). Many chefs now considered true culinary deans (Bocuse, Troisgros brothers, etc.), came through his kitchen.

The room was modernish, expressive and lovely, especially if you are fond of giant monochromatic fruit paintings. The cooking was this wanna-be-modern-and-technical sort of stuff like Brittany Lobster and Papaya with Espelette peppers. Sorry, if you try this you better get it done - not ok otherwise. Not successful. The cooking was neither thoughtful or as technical or proficient as one would expect for the most part. The meal was exceptionally long and got longer as the room became emptier - and it never half filled in the first place.

The thoughtlessness of the service is what finally irritated me to no end. The worst amalgam of French sniffery and American poor-quality-of-welcome was what we had. Not that there was any lack of bodies around. No one had their eyes open enough or seemed to care enough to help the other specialists. This was a lot of money poorly spent, except of course for motivation to not ever allow this to happen in our places.

We headed from lunch to the great tasting I mentioned at Jamet. After Jamet we headed off to Macon and had a lovely tasting at the superb producer of Saint-Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé, Jacques and Nathalie Saumaize. Great stuff - a style plump and sunny and mineral and pure all at once, superb value from excellent natural winemaking. After we took Nathalie's kind advice - and somewhat controversial directions, we headed toward a restaurant in Saint-Laurent-sur-Saône called Le Saint Laurent.

After an hour of wandering about at high speed, in pitch black and driving rains, with a few jostles, leaps and blind bridges that made the more soft-bellied members of my crew howl a bit - we found the lovely town and the restaurant by the bridge as described.

We walked into a clearly soon-to-close brasserie and after a quick chat organized a menu of Salade au Chèvre Chaud, Bar Rôti Meurette, and Poulet de Bresse Rôti. Throw in some tasty Saint-Véran and a fat young Clos Vougeot and you had a simply satisfied group; well-fed and out the door in 90 minutes and back on the trek to Beaune. We were so happy with dinner. It made me think for weeks about guests' motivations and expectations. It's a subject always on my mind, but never as much as now after my day of stark contrast.

A particular vision for Cinghiale now on path

2007-11-26T15:10:00.000-05:00

These have certainly been a hectic but gratifying last few weeks. Cindy has spent the last five years preparing Julian Marucci to be a Chef and we always expected that he would become the Executive Chef at one of our restaurants. He demonstrated so much skill and savvy as Cindy's Sous Chef at Charleston.

Julian came to us last spring and asked to be a part of the project that is now Cinghiale. He wanted to explore Italian cooking - it's only natural as his Dad's family is from Puglia. His strength was evident immediately after opening and he became the natural choice for Executive Chef when the time came to make a change. I have a very particular vision for Cinghiale. The menu needs to be on target and the kitchen operating in a crisp fashion in order to realize it.

Now it's my turn to share knowledge gained through research and experience with Julian in order to fully understand the aesthetic that I'm after. Working with Julian to find his personal style, the palate he has, it's just a matter of learning the idiom. Julian is just so excited and focused. He knows this is what he's meant to do. What he's born to do. Like me he started on this path at 14.

We're having a great time nailing execution on classic regional dishes and timing with the brigade. Soon he should be happy enough with individual performance to stop coaching minutiae every moment and just direct his crew. That pushes me back into the dining room again consistently - although I've not minded dispensing menu and wine advice from the kitchen via messenger.

New dishes to look for include a brilliant Braised Local Rabbit with Spaetzle, Pancetta, Sage and Garlic (fabulous with one of those big, dry, exotic Gewurztraminers from Alto Adige); the Carpaccio is a Piemonte-inspired preparation with Hazelnuts, Rucola and a Robiola Crostini. The beef we are getting is fabulous beef raised in the Kobe style at Snake River Farms in Wyoming - it makes decadent Carpaccio and grills beautifully in a Tuscan-style preparation with Porcini Mostarda and Rosemary-Garlic Oil. We have also gotten a very consistent source for Orata (the French call it Dourade, we call it Gilt-head Sea Bream) that is sweet-fleshed and whose skin gets nicely crisp. I've had people go bananas for the Risotto Milanese with Saffron and Veal Marrow that we've been serving just the last few days. Venison Osso Bucco is in the offing as well.

The Enoteca menu has been gaining new dishes as well: more modestly-priced comfort and casual food. Excellent sandwiches with meats from the Salumeria, Lasagna Marche style with Veal and Parmigiano Froth, and this week a classic: Suppli al Telefono - Arborio rice cooked as risotto that's fried with Buffalo Mozzarella inside (I know that doesn’t sound light but it's so good).

PREZZO FISSO

2007-10-30T09:46:00.000-04:00

PREZZO FISSO

It’s now a month or so after the opening of Cinghiale and many elements of the restaurant are as I would wish. Every day and evening, guests ask if I am pleased with the restaurant. I always struggle with this question.

If I say "yes," does it imply that I am satisfied? I never am. I know it is very hard on my staff, and I understand I can't control it. Each restaurant is born of this fantastical dream in my head and as such I will keep chasing an unattainable "film" in my mind that I am compelled to see.

That being written I am pleased with the progress of our staff. They are pushing their skills, knowledge, team work, and focus to a higher degree. That's truly the most gratifying thing that I get to experience. It's marvelous to thrill a guest. I find it much, much better to teach staff the pleasure and satisfaction of same.

My chief struggle at the moment, I believe, is being able to have guests dine in the style that Stefano and I intended. Cleary an inducement is necessary.

The concept of Cinghiale is that a classic room from Milano, Torino or Bologna that dates to the late 50's to early 60's that has been revived with a talented new Chef and committed ownership. The room remains classic but is refreshed, the cellar is stocked and thoughtful, the staff is energized, attentive and above all, kind.

The kitchen is dedicated to modern interpretations of classic dishes from northern Italian villages served in a classic 3-course fashion: Antipasti, Pasta (or Risotto) and a fish or meat dish as a Main Course. Prior, of course, we have to offer Stuzzichino (little bites) and Salumi to have with an Aperitivo as guests start to relax and consider the menu. I know this is not the fashion that many of our guests are accustomed to dining.

What I hope will be a nice inducement on the menu is two-fold, one is to offer it as a 3-course pre-fixe (prezzo fisso) with a complete menu choice of an Antipasti, a half portion of Pasta and a Main Course for 44 dollars, in addition we would continue to present it as it is currently available in an a la carte (priced per item chosen) format. The pre-fixe should be a pretty serious deal for a smart diner. Stefano and I want to have many guests enjoying the menu as intended and portioned.

Cinghiale begins

2007-09-21T17:18:00.000-04:00

I'm sitting in the Enoteca the afternoon before opening evening for Cinghiale. I just left the kitchen where we were joking about how one cooler looks like a butcher shop - all kinds of salcicie, salame and prosciutto underway - and the other cooler looks like a grocery store from the 50's - with the last of summer preserved in jars on the shelves with recipes straight out of Stefano's grandmother's cookbook. The cellar is stocked and at temperature - amazing work by Olivia and her team. Dale is coming in the door with bags of fabulous crunchy ciabatta from Pazo's wood-burning oven. Stefano and I sort of joke "I guess this was the idea."

Our team has done well with their practice. The dining room staff remains nervous but are good students and care a great deal. I am very encouraged and impressed by this group. Felicia and her management team have been working six and seven days preparing all of the details.

Our kitchen team is beginning to find it's rhythm as well. I always spend the first few weeks, at least, expediting food from the kitchen so that Chef can teach his staff to prepare his food. Our Sous Chefs are energetic, talented, terrific guys and a pleasure to work with. The advantages of Cindy's kitchen design are already making themselves apparent. My wife has a great talent for streamlining systems of production so that quality is achievable for our guests.

What I'm doing is so much teaching and coaching but it's truly what I wanted to do my whole life. I can’t imagine doing anything else.

CLEAN & ETERNAL…CAN YOU FEEL IT?

2007-08-29T13:19:00.000-04:00

It's not so easy to jot down a few words on the topic of Cinghiale currently. The picture I imagine is in a sepia-hued film – it has been clear to me atmospherically for a few years now with the feel of the different spaces being set since early 2006. After painting the scene for Cindy and having her respond so enthusiastically I knew Patrick Sutton would be just as excited to work out the details for the space. Now is the tough time.

The final wind-down of construction is always the most frustrating. It's just a little too titillating. Sort of like the kid with all the baseball gear you can imagine, he's waited all winter to play, and he wakes up to rain on the morning of the first game. He just stares out the window and mutters at the rain clouds...

I know we just need to be in the space making it what it needs to be. The Enoteca needs to bustle with life, wine flowing, wine discussion ongoing (at various stages of lubrication), moments of discovery at the Salumeria with Stefano's daily antipasti, the staff finding their tempo.

The dining room should have an air of elegance from lost times; or perhaps an earnestness of intent. A serenity and at the same moment a rich hum. It will be difficult to constrain excited staff who are eager to share newfound knowledge and technique.

I wonder how long it will take to convey the simple, clean and eternal lighthearted nature that this restaurant should have to our clients. Stefano, Cindy and I can see and feel it very clearly. This process of translation to staff and guests is always a challenging if not frustrating time. It ranks up there with chasing millwork contractors around.

Cinghiale: the countdown begins

2007-08-13T17:03:00.000-04:00

Finally, a nice day…Augusts in Baltimore have been brutal since I was a kid with a paper route ("brute" is Italian for ugly - the cognate sure applies).

The day began a bit lighter in labor count than others. At 6 this morning I checked in with Henry and Phil, 2 of Tommy Gaines's old-pro carpenters that are supplementing the millwork subcontractor who's overwhelmed. Henry and Phil are always in good spirits and have worked on every project for me (except maybe 604) over the years.

Around 9am there are 7 more people working on-site. Mostly mill workers. At this stage all of the other trades are waiting for millwork to finish so they can complete their work. Good news: the kitchen is almost entirely complete and installed. It's easily our most efficient design and should allow for excellent control and efficiency. The real potential of a kitchen can be limited by poor design.

The real evaluation of a kitchen comes night after night: how many of the several thousand plates a week will be executed the way that the Chef conceives, and arrive timed when it will have a chance at pleasing the guest...and does it get that job done? It may seem cold to view it this way, but to be good, you have to apply statistics to the work. The higher percentage pleased (no Chef is measured 2 plates at a time), the more likely they return and speak well of you. It's what we strive for anyway.

We're a few weeks away from planned inspections on September 1st. Lots to do yet: leatherwork by Vladimir for Banquettes, curtains and fabrics by Stan, ironwork by Randy, stone and marble work by Mark and, oh yeah, we have to find and hire 90 special people.

Arterial stress at its very best

2007-07-24T17:17:00.000-04:00

Hotel Bellevue, Cogne Valle d'Aosta, IT

First the weather...at Les Cretes it was 22C (71.6F). Here, 15km away it was 14C and dropped during lunch to 9C. Crazy. I watched the snow storm come from Mont Blanc to Gran Paradiso during lunch, in July.

Lunch at Bar a Fromage.

The room is typical Italian Alpine business: very cute, lots of wood and wood beams. Pewter table service makes it feel very 1880.

Ok, if I eat everything on the dish put in front of me I'll die or be 280 lbs. It's an entree plate filled with polenta covered with a poached egg (that has that sunny color that really fresh egg yolks have), about 20 slices of summer truffle, and surrounded by crispy bacon.

The other dish is maybe better. Small pasta Favo, tossed with a cheese sauce finished with tomato, small favas and covered with crispy brown breadcrumbs.

Next dish is Raclette, a semi-firm, salted cheese made from cow’s milk. God help us. Having these dishes with Costantino's top chardonnay from Les Cretes "Cuvee Bois" 2004. Probably should be served with an IV and my cardiologist on the side or maybe something brighter. Great wine - I did not choose as I should have though.

Raclette is served melting slowly at the table - probably a 24 ounce piece for 2 persons to share. They send you a basket of steamed, salted little potatoes and a plate of dried beef on the side in case the puddle of stinky, glossy goodness isn't sufficient. I found rolling slices of the potato in the cheese and using the dried beef as a counterpoint pretty gosh-darn pleasurable. Guess it's safe to say this is not the Italian cooking we think of in Baltimore typically.

Al Veluu: Not in any guidebooks…

2007-07-09T18:37:00.000-04:00

In the teeny town of Rogaro above Tremezzo on Lake Como sits the idyllic restaurant Al Veluu. It is difficult to imagine a more perfect place for lunch outside - on the side of one of the mountains surrounding Como a few hundred feet up.
The proprietor who was taking care of us explained that "they don't make advertisements because they have enough work and they don't like too many people".

Lunch was one classic after another: Bresaola with Arugula, Reggiano (best Bresaola I've had) and local oil (Lenno xvoo); Carpaccio of Piemonte Beef with Arugula and Preserved Black Nava Truffle; are fried Zucchini Flowers stuffed with Mozzarella and fresh basil. When he took the order and offered my fried zucchini for a side dish I asked if there were any blossoms - "of course there are, I'll go get some from the garden below us". So he did. He also brought back some beautiful figs from the tree just below us on the hill to serve with local prosciutto and salami. After we had a pasta, Penne "Al Veluu" very much like Arrabiata, and Beef Tartare. We also had the excellent Dolcetto that Gaja makes (the only wine anyone can afford from him these days) called Cremes. Light but with some body, punch of purple fruit and well-managed tannin. Unusual for this often ill-behaved grape.

After we sampled cheeses from the area including two different Valtellina (Lombardian cow's milk pressed cheese that does not come to the U.S.) that remind me more of some English pieces and a flavorful fresh local chèvre. Dessert was a very decadent if not refined version of Tiramisu.

This is a remarkably welcoming place serving exactly what you might wish for in this region, with a great view, fair prices and a thoughtful wine list. By the way - you will not find this place in any guidebooks, they avoid being listed. Go to Lake Como, up the western shore maybe halfway to Tremezzo, look for signs for Rogaro up the hill that overlooks the lake and then look for signs for Al Veluu.
http://www.alveluu.com/