Wino sapien

Coq au vin

2008-07-24T22:46:00.000+08:00

I think I used well over 200g of butter to make this version of Coq au vin, good thing for the French paradox. . . The original recipe is from Julia Child's book, Mastering the art of French cooking. A copy of the recipe is reproduced here, so I will spare you the detail. I did take a variety of short cuts, such as not boiling my bacon prior to use and not bothering with blending my butter and flour to create a beurre manié.

The end result (after around 90 minutes of preparation and cooking) is indulgently rich, and the sauce demands a wine that can cut through the butter. I chose a bottle of red Burgundy which was superb.

Related posts: Coq au vin.

William Downie Mornington Peninsula Pinot noir 2007

2008-07-23T22:04:00.001+08:00

Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia. Pinot noir. 13.5%. Diam. Approx $A50.

Has the same lovely label as before, but the bottle is heavier and endowed with a wider bottom and a deeper punt. The wax capsule also seems more stubbornly attached than before. . .

This needs patience, but already it is perfumed, earthy and altogether more serious than the previous vintage. It smells of rose petals, loam and ginseng and is silky and bold in the mouth. In time the finish should integrate and the char and sappy oak should soften and recede.

Very good - excellent.
92+
2009 - 2013+

Day 2: More subdued nose, but much better in the mouth. Quite creamy and more seamless.

technorati tags: wine, australian wine

Untitled. . .

2008-07-22T23:00:00.005+08:00

Family secrets. . .

2008-07-21T22:25:00.001+08:00

A dear friend delivered a freshly made and cooked sausage recently. Beautifully proportioned (thick and curved) and terrifically flavoured (fennel, paprika and chili I think), it was rapidly and noisily devoured.

More delicious than the sausage was the knowledge that this has been hand made, according to an Italian family recipe. I love the idea that a cross section of generations can come together to make food (tomato sauce, sausages, pancetta. . .), and in the process share tradition, knowledge and warmth.

Despite my affection and respect for family, there are very few formalised (and seasonal) traditions in my life. Things are more ad hoc, which makes me sometimes wish, that life was more Italian (and pork oriented. . .)

For want of a nail

2008-07-20T15:17:00.001+08:00

It's been a little while since I ventured out for a cooked breakfast, so I especially enjoyed this morning's offering (Cantina, My Lawley, Mamma's plate for $A20). Surrounded by my nearest and dearest, it was not hard to feel optimistic, relaxed and comfortable. It was a pleasing hiatus from the general doom and gloom that seems to have pervaded the year.

In keeping with the darkness, I've been ruminating about medical errors and mistakes (thankfully not of my doing) for many months. After breakfast, I was meandering through a local book store and chanced upon a nursery rhyme. . .

For want of a nail the shoe was lost.
For want of a shoe the horse was lost.
For want of a horse the rider was lost.
For want of a rider the battle was lost.
For want of a battle the kingdom was lost.
And all for the want of a horseshoe nail.

Medical errors are often like this, a cascade of seemingly minor oversights, each leading to greater problems, which eventually become insurmountable. It's no surprise that some of my colleagues (who are all generally obsessives in the first place) become trapped by the apparent risk that resides in each decision filled day.

Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon Macon Milly Lamartine 2005

2008-07-19T22:09:00.000+08:00

Macon Villages, Burgundy, France. Chardonnay. 13%. Cork. $A50

I spent the day pruning rose bushes, before preparing my son's second favourite meal. I decided to reward myself with a bottle of my favourite white grape. . .

Potentially excellent and potentially better that it's older sibling. Sadly this was ever so slightly cork tainted. Not enough to be undrinkable, but certainly enough to detract and distract.

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Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2005

2008-07-18T01:21:00.000+08:00

Tuscany, Italy. 13.5%. Cork (a stumpy one). Approx $A40.

This is very good, though I think I prefer the 2004 edition. My bias is more than likely the result of external influences. When I drank the 2004 release, I was on holidays, near the beach and surrounded by family. If I recall correctly, I was also stuffing my face with a T-bone and several burnt sausages. . .

Bucolic and unrepentantly so. Smelling of an animal hide and dried citrus peel, this is savoury, varietal and cut with juicy acids. There is a hint of leafiness and autumn before and wave of parching tannins.

Very good.
91.
Now - 2011.

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Grosset Gaia 2000

2008-07-16T01:24:00.001+08:00

Clare Valley, South Australia. Cabernet sauvignon (75%), Cabernet franc (20%), Merlot (5%). Cork. 13.5%. Source: cellar.

It's been a dry July (in terms of rain and alcohol) and I think I'm suffering from a mild dose of Winter sloth. I plan to nurse myself back to health with a few good books, some artery clogging food and several bottles of aging red wine. . .

Reassuringly familiar, though still a little stiff and formal. Middle aged and smelling of a cigar box, wilted mint and shellac. This is sour edged, grainy and cloaked in fine but assertive tannins. Identifiably Clare with it's combination of mint and hardness.

Very good.
89.
Now - 2013.

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Falling. . .

2008-07-15T15:20:00.003+08:00

Méo Camuzet Marsannay 2005

2008-07-12T18:58:00.001+08:00

Marsannay, Burgundy, France. Pinot noir. 13%. Cork. Approx $A55.

Vibrantly coloured and densely scented, this is youthful and appealing, though I'm not sure it will make old bones.

Glaced cherry, fresh hay, ham and rubber skid marks. Very lush and silken to begin, before rapidly tapering. Despite the promise of savoury abundance, this is a wine with short legs and a skinny bottom. . .

Very good.
88.
Now - 2010.

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Phở

2008-07-10T23:36:00.000+08:00

I've been savouring Secrets of the red lantern for the last few days. It's an excellent and very complete book. Being fond of Phở, I was drawn to the recipe for beef noodle soup (Pho bo tai nam) and the beef stock base for pho (Nuoc pho bo).

Whilst it is far easier to visit one of the many local Vietnamese diners, attempting the dish leaves a much deeper understanding of the complexities of this national treasure.

The most important thing is the stock. The recipe in Nguyen's book takes well over 12 hours, has more ingredients (including beef flank, which is later reused as one of the meats in the final Phở), and yields 15 litres of broth. It (the original recipe) was informative to see how much salt (160g) and fish sauce (300mls) is called for.

Having much less time, a much smaller stockpot (only 8 litre capacity) and less of a salt tooth, I improvised.

Ingredients:

1.5kg of beef - shin bone segments (approx 5 pieces)
2 chicken carcasses
4 cinnamon quills
4 star anise
3 cloves
80g caster sugar
100mls of fish sauce
2 tablespoons of rock salt
1 large bulb of ginger - cut in half and grilled in the oven first*
2 onions - quartered and grilled in the oven till charred

How?

Place the beef and chicken bodies into a large stockpot and cover with water (approx 6 litres). Bring to the boil and add the spices. Skim occasionally to remove the scum. After an hour, add the sugar, fish sauce and salt and let simmer for a further hour. At this point remove the meat, and add your charred onion and ginger, top up with water, so there is still around 6 litres of liquid, and leave for a further hour or two. Strain the liquid, to remove much of the fat and all the solids (use muslin if available, in my case I used a clean tea towel).

Quite a simple stock in terms of ingredients, but the result is a very richly flavoured and coloured broth.

The Phở.

Once you have the soup base, the Phở is very simple. Prepare some rice noodles** (bahn pho) so they are ready for the addition of the boiling hot soup and then have your condiments on hand (finely sliced onion and spring onion, fresh coriander, mint, bean sprouts, sliced red chilies). Place the ready to eat rice noodles into a bowl (or bowls) rinse the noodles in boiling water and drain, before then adding the desired condiments. Top with a handful of finely sliced raw beef (I used rump steak) before finally adding 150mls (or so) of boiling broth to each bowl. Serve at once with lemon wedges (the acid offsets the sweetness of the soup).

*Place the halved ginger bulb and onion fragments on a baking tray and drizzle with oil and place under grill, till slightly burnt.

** I used dried rice stick and followed the instructions on the pack (boil for 8 minutes and then drain and refresh in cold water).

Giaconda Aeolia 2006

2008-07-08T00:30:00.002+08:00

Beechworth, Victoria, Australia. Roussanne. 13.8%. Screwcap. Approx $A75.

The mischievous, though amusing and wise, Monkuwino tagged me almost a month ago. My task was to pick up the nearest book and quote a passage from page 123. The book I've belatedly chosen is from my local public library, Secrets of the Red Lantern, by Pauline Nguyen. Part Autobiography and part receipe book, it's beautiful, raw and appealing. As to page 123, there's a recipe for Bo Xao Mang (wok tossed beef with bamboo shoots and basil).

The book and tag have very little to do with the 2006 Giaconda Aeolia, which was: An excellent, though challenging wine. Golden, fleshy and gripping, this is complex, compelling and highly recommended. A curious nose - flint, sulphur, pollen and honey. It's very satisfying in the mouth - creamy and slightly unctuous, cut with acid and riddled with complexity.

Very good - excellent.
94.
Now - 2011+

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Bass Phillip 21 Pinot noir 2006

2008-07-07T04:06:00.000+08:00

Gippsland, Victoria, Australia. Pinot noir. 12.8%. Diam. Approx $A75.

The 21 signifies the 21st anniversary of 'serious' Bass Phillip pinot noir. Before pinot was fashionable in Australia, the idiosyncratic and now iconic Phillip Jones was pottering away with his vision. The easiest thing to say about his wines, is that they polarise. Some would say they are Australia's greatest, others are not so generous with their praise.

I liked this. It's very expressive though more than a little wild and savoury. Smelling of stewed berries and unwashed pig, this is juicy and bright, savoury, and textured. The acid is very good and enduring, giving the otherwise truncated finish a little more carry and persistence.

Very good.
91.
Now - 2010.

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Distracted

2008-07-06T08:46:00.005+08:00

Ordinarily wine is my main distraction. Of late there have been other more pressing diversions. My son's birthday, Mario cakes, Nintendo Wii, a sinus infection, food poisoning (? Bacillus cereus), a falling share market (again), and bureaucrats (who are fond of saying - we're doing all we can). Most of these 'issues' have passed and normal transmission should return in a day or so. . .

Vinea Marson Nebbiolo 2006

2008-07-02T22:03:00.000+08:00

Heathcote, Victoria, Australia. Nebbiolo. 13.5%. Diam. Approx $A45.

This is a beautifully packaged wine. The label is simple but elegant, the serif typeface is curious and effective, and importantly, the foil is short enough to reveal, to the consumer, a taint free seal (Diam).

Beyond the superficialities, this is also the most impressive Australian Nebbiolo I've tried. It's pinot noir like in its prettiness, perfume and emphasis, whilst still being un-repentantly tannic and sour in the mouth. Scented with rose petal, sour cherry and chocolate orange, this is expressive, inviting and fresh. Lovely and varietal in the mouth, brisk and assertive, before a spray of fine, firm and drying tannins. Well poised and sensible in its proportions, this is very satisfying.

Very good - excellent.
94.
Now - 2013.

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An orange quintet. . .

2008-07-01T00:11:00.001+08:00

I was reading the July 2008 edition of Delicious magazine (in particular the recipe for Orange marmalade chicken), and decided to take Jill Dupleix's advice on utilising ingredients.

"It's very satisfying to make dinner from what you already have on hand, not to mention good house-keeping. If we home cooks had to set prices on our meals the way professional chefs do, accounting for their costs and building in a profit margin, we'd look in the cupboard for inspiration more often."

For someone who often spends hours hunting down esoteric ingredients, which will only ever be used once, it's sensible (and hopefully habit changing) advice.

I started with plans for one orange treat, by nights end, I had five. . .

1. Orange marmalade chicken

Mix the mustard (1tbs Dijon) and marmalade (3 tbs orange marmalade) together, season with salt and pepper and then add the chicken (8 thighs with skin on), leaving for a few hours. Arrange the chicken on a baking tray lined with silicone paper, and drizzle with the remaining marinade. Now add the red onion (2 that have been quartered) and orange fragments (1 peeled and segmented), along with the juice (of 1 orange) and a splash of olive oil. Bake for 40 minutes (occasionally basting) in an oven preheated to 200 degrees Celsius. Serves 4.

2. Grated carrot and tomato salad.

Add the carrot (2 coarsely grated), tomato (2 large, finely sliced), lemon juice (half lemon) and parsley (1 tbs chopped) to a bowl. In a pan fry mustard seeds (1 tbs) in olive oil (2 tbs) till the seeds start to pop, now pour this directly onto the salad ingredients, mix and serve.

3. Orange and fennel salad.

To a bowl add 2 fennel bulbs that have been finely sliced, two small oranges (that have been cut into segments), fresh Parmesan shavings, pepper, olive oil and lemon juice. Mix and serve.

4. A wine from Orange.

The town of Orange, 250km West of Sydney, can be surprisingly cool (in a viticultural sense) given its latitude (33 degrees South). The reason for this is the altitude of the formally volcanic slopes of Mount Canobolas.

Penfolds Bin 311 Orange Chardonnay 2007 (12.5%, screwcap, approx $A40).
Bright, lean and tart. Green apple and citrus fruit flavours blend with flinty, mineral acidity. Brisk, sappy and sour edged. Very good. 90. Now - 2013. (I think a bigger boned Chardonnay with more oak treatment would have been a better match for the food. The Bin 311 would be great with sashimi or oysters.)

5. An Orange poet.*

Kenneth Slessor on the joys of modern city life. . .

Smells rich and rasping, smoke and fat and fish
and puffs of paraffin that crimp the nose,
of grease that blesses onions with a hiss;
You find it ugly, I find it lovely.

* Though born in Orange, Slessor moved to Sydney as a two year old.

All Saints Grand Muscat

2008-06-30T04:41:00.001+08:00

Rutherglen, Victoria, Australia. 18%. Vino-lok. Approx $A50 (for 375ml bottle)

Superb. Silken, sticky, rich and enduring. The back label captures the essence of the wine perfectly with two words - kaleidoscope and irresistible. This is beautiful, excessive and wickedly indulgent in its proportions, flavour and duration. With its aesthetically appealing, taint free glass stopper, this is easy to recommend.

Excellent
95

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Schloss Vollrads Kabinett Rheingau 2005

2008-06-28T21:36:00.000+08:00

Rheingau, Germany. Riesling. 11.5%. Vino-lok. Approx $A45.

Like sugarcane cut with lime juice, the flavours are intense and lingering. With more than a hint of mineral and plenty of succulence, this zippy wine is truthful* and refreshing.

Very good.
92.
Now - 2013+

* This is true to its region, which is warmer than Mosel, which explains the bolder, more sun tanned flavours

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Telmo Rodriguez Pegaso Garnacha 2003

2008-06-27T03:39:00.000+08:00

Castilla y Leon, Spain. Grenache. 15%. Cork. Approx $A55.

Confronting. Tobacco, wilted leaf, blueberry and charred meat. This is full, bold and inky. After one sip, I was tempted to stop and move onto something more supple and refined. Half a bottle later and I find that I'm warming to it's charm and bucolic rough edges. With little introduction this is firm, forceful and gripping. Like a vinous Spartan warrior, this is direct and devoid of affectation.

Very good.
91.
Now - 2013.

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Roda Reserva 2004

2008-06-24T02:31:00.001+08:00

Rioja, Spain. Tempranillo. 14%. Cork. Approx $A65.

A beguiling and enticing wine. Beautifully packaged, this is charming, graceful and delicious. My photo is very similar to last year, and I find myself just as impressed with this vintage. To taste, this is a slowly tied knot. Lush, plump and loose to begin, before slowly but surely tightening and gripping. The tannins are excellent, building and enveloping, lingering and satisfying. This is quite superb.

Excellent.
95.
Now - 2018.

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Pio Cesare Fides Barbera D'Alba 2004

2008-06-23T04:53:00.000+08:00

Barbera D'Alba, Piemonte, Italy. Barbera. 14%. Cork. Approx $A50.

Bountiful and flavorsome, this is sensual and likely to please all but the most hard core of terroirists and pedants. This is a maker's wine and more specifically a wine of oak. Creamy, spicy, high quality French oak.

Sweet oak, vanilla and spice. Hedonistic, lush and incredibly creamy, the varietal acid has been moderated, whilst the softly spoken tannins have been amplified. It's a demonstration of what 20 months of French tuition can achieve. . .

Very good.
91.
Now - 2013.

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Long Flat Destinations Yarra Valley Pinot noir 2007

2008-06-21T22:41:00.000+08:00

Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia. Pinot noir. 13.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A10.

At $10 a bottle it's hard to complain, though it's also hard to commend.

Crimson, simple and attenuated. This is correct, but almost homeopathic in it's intensity. Stewed berries and a faint hint of spice, this has the right shape and emphasis, but lacks vigour and dimension.

Now.

technorati tags: wine, australian wine

John Kosovich Liqueur Muscat

2008-06-20T00:46:00.002+08:00

Swan Valley, Perth, Western Australia. Muscat à petits grains. 18.5%. Cork. Approx $A70 (for 375ml bottle, bottled in 2002).

Impossibly and absurdly rich and lush, this is complex and difficult to capture in words, everything seems multifaceted and changeable. A mahogany core, but a rim of bile and olive oil green. There is a heavy, swoon inducing scent of fruit cake, raisin, toffee and languid summer days. A slight detraction is the vague impression of toluene and paint thinner. All is forgiven in the mouth, this is thick, rounded, silken and hot flush inducing. The flavours compete and cascade, but two stand out, a tangy candied citrus and an indulgent lingering crème brûlée. Surely, this is the perfect antidote for even the coldest of nights.

Excellent.
94.
Now.

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Mac Forbes EB2 Chardonnay 2007

2008-06-19T20:54:00.002+08:00

Strathbogie (Central Victorian High Country), Victoria, Australia. Chardonnay. 12.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A27.

Bristling, crisp and stony. Peaches and cream, pineapple, hay, flint and smoke. Pebble like and acid laden, this is fleshy, approachable, spiced and pleasing. The main negatives (to me) being the length (a little too short) and the bristle. . .

Very good.
88.
Now - 2011.

technorati tags: wine, australian wine, chardonnay

Collective shivering

2008-06-19T12:29:00.000+08:00

The scene: June 3 2008. Far away from the Western Australian capital of Perth, on Varanus island, an explosion at the Apache natural gas facility causes mayhem. No lives are lost but 30% of the States 1000 terajoule per day gas supply is cut. There are predictions of job losses and a drop in economic growth, for the State and the Nation. 60% of the States electricity is derived from gas, and almost all the gas is derived from the North West shelf (Apache 30%, Woodside 65%).

In response the Premier pleads with people to conserve energy. Despite cool nights (4 degrees Celsius) the people appear to be heeding the call, with an approximately 45% drop in residential power use in the last 2 days (from 90mW to 50mW/d). City skyscrapers are turning off airconditioning, lifts and lights, and people are being told to turn off heaters and take shorter showers. . .