The Frugal Oenophile's Wine of the Week

Wine of the Week for July 7, 2008

2008-07-09T10:56:00.000-04:00

McWilliams Hanwood Estate Merlot 2006 - $14.45
Style: R3
Australia

Always a good performer, this deep black cherry coloured merlot shows rich dark berry aromas -- mainly blackberry and blueberry -- with traces of oak and a slight medicinal note. Soft and round on the palate, approaching sweetish, with rich blackberry and cherry flavours supported by soft tannins. Very good body and length with a hit of liquorice on the close. Done in the " modern" style with grace and elegance, it will age nicely over the next 3-5 years. Stick with rich meats of the grill, game birds or wild mushrooms. (LCBO 53702)

A Canadian Moment...

Pillitteri Cabernet-Merlot VQA 2006 - $12.95
Style: R3
Ontario: Niagara

The nose here shows enormous spice, bell pepper, black currants, and a touch of animale. Laid back on the palate, but tasty, with ripe bumbleberry flavour, a cool acidity and just a touch of tannin. With medium body and length, it has a great nose for the price, but you may want to treat is as "R1". A worthy partner for burgers, meatloaf or pizza. (LCBO 349191)

Wine of the Week for June 30, 2008

2008-07-01T10:12:00.002-04:00

Alianca Vinho Verde - $8.40
Style: W2
Portugal

Portugal's "green" wine may be the ideal summer sipper. This one shows pale platinum straw colour with aromas of baked lemon, floral and lime on the nose. The palate shows a characteristic fizziness, with lemon-lime candy flavour, medium body and medium length. Very well made and for most of July it's $1 off. Serve with lunch. (LCBO 75663)

Sogrape Gazela Vinho Verde - $8.40
Style: W2
Portugal

The second candidate is a bit lighter, with a delicate nose showing aromas of peach, lime, floral and bath soap. Tangy with lemony-lime flavour on the palate, a bright acidity, and a light spritz. Light bodied and with good length, it requires a good bit of sun to show itself properly. (LCBO 141432)

Wine of the Week for June 23, 2008

2008-06-24T09:04:00.001-04:00

Little Black Dress Merlot 2006 - $14.95
Style: R3
USA: California

Alhough somewhat closed at this stage, the nose suggests aromas of cherry, raspberry and vanilla. Quite soft and around on the palate, somewhat sweetish, with firm tannins and ripe red berry flavours. Medium in body and length, with a touch of prune on the close. A decent mid-range wine that might benefit from a bit more cellar time, and a good choice with something off the grill or perhaps a mushroom sauce. (LCBO 72769)

A Canadian Moment ...

Legends Estate Cabernet VQA 2006 - $11.95
Style: R3
Canada: Niagara

The grape here is apparently Cab Franc, although there may be some Cab Sauv as well. The colour is an intense ruby-garnet. On the nose look for elegant spices, beetroot, prune and dried cherry with a hint of tar. Crisply acidic on the palate, with medium tannins, mainly raspberry flavour and a tangy close. Very good body and length. Although a bit young at this stage, it opens up nicely in the glass. Cellar for 1-3 years or serve with chili or BBQ beef. (LCBO 390195)

Wine of the Week for June 16, 2008

2008-06-16T19:14:00.002-04:00

Twin Fin Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon (PET) 2006 - $11.95
Style: W2
USA: California

The LCBO’s faith in non-Canadian wine is obvious if you look at the amount of Twin-Fin currently in stock. With a bright platinum-straw colour, the wine shows rich aromas of grass, gooseberry and passionfruit with a hint of pine needles. Quite tasty, with mainly grapefruit flavour and a soft acidity. Good body and very good length, with a tangy citrus close. A bit on the light side, but a sound choice for BBQ bird, seafoods or kebabs. (LCBO 70367)

A Canadian Moment ...

De Sousa Dois Amigos Vidal VQA 2006 - $12.05
Style: W2
Canada: Niagara

Looking for a lot of decent wine at a ridiculously low price? This Ontario-grown Vidal displays delicate aromas of grapefruit, lemon and apple with a hint of pine bough. The palate is barely off-dry, with a tangy acidity, orange, lemon and apple flavours, and a crisp, apply finish. OK body and with pretty good length, this an impressive little party wine -- and it’s VQA! (LCBO 74690)

Wine of the Week for June 9, 2008

2008-06-09T11:18:00.001-04:00

Arniston Bay Shiraz-Merlot 2006 - $9.90
Style: R2
South Africa

The rich aromas here suggest plum, mixed spices and vanilla, with the expected hint of Pinotage. Mild-mannered, showing plum and raspberry on the palate, a firm acidity, solid tannins, a nicely balanced finish, and good body and length. A solid performer that should age nicely for at least a couple of years. Try with flavourful hard cheeses, burgers or tomato sauces. (LCBO 43927)

A Canadian Moment ...

Reif Gamay Rose VQA 2006 - $11.95
Style: Z
Canada: Niagara

This solid candy-apple pink quaffer shows rich raspberry and strawberry aromas with traces of citrus, ripe apple and pepper at the tail end. Stops just short of off-dry, with raspberry, apple and lemony flavours and a crisp acidity. Very good body and length, refreshing and flavourful. (LCBO 669366)

Wine of the Week for June 2, 2008

2008-06-02T16:29:00.000-04:00

Remy Pannier Sauvignon Blanc 2006 - $10.90
Style: W2
France: Loire

Normally a lacklustre source of wines, Remy Pannier has managed to make an impact with this one. I hope it signals a new direction for this maker. Aromas include rich grapefruit and lemon zest on the nose. The palate is welcoming -- slightly sweet on the uptake -- with pomello, baked lemon and a touch of spice. Good body and length. Not a stunner but solid and showing very good typicity. Try with dilled fish or roast pork. (LCBO 68676)

A Canadian Moment ...

Strewn Gewurztraminer 2006 - $12.95
Style: W3
Canada: Niagara

Gewurz is one grape that can do extremely well in this region. Look for a deep honey-straw colour. The nose is very full on the nose, with apricot and a touch of spicy apple aromas. Round, soft, slightly tart, with white peach and apple flavours and a slightly oily texture. Very good body and length. A terrific nose, with an understated palate and very good value. Would work nicely with a creamy curry or duck paté. (LCBO 65359)

Wine of the Week for May 19, 2008

2008-05-19T19:00:00.005-04:00

Cypress Merlot 2005 - $11.50
Style: R3
USA

Look for some real depth here, with woody, dark chocolate, bell pepper, and ripe dark berry aromas. Quite big, with firm tannins, sweetish cherry/berry flavours and a solid acid core. Very good body and length. A lot of wine for the price, combining New World fruitiness with Old World structure. Serve with beef Wellington, lasagne or mature hard cheeses. (LCBO 56416)

A Canadian Moment

Magnotta Cabernet Sauvignon VQA 2006 - $9.95
Style: R3
Canada: Niagara

This is a splendid showing for a cool climate Cab. The colour is a deep garnet ruby colour. The nose shows lush aromas of spice, dried herbs, with nuances of prune and sweet smokey oak. Nicely round, with ripe dark berry flavours dominated by cherry, a refreshing acidity and moderate tannins. Fairly big with very good length, and a nice shot of pepper at the close. Young and spirited with oodles of character, and an ideal partner for red sauces, mushrooms or beef tenderloin. (Magnotta stores only)

Wine of the Week for May 5, 2008

2008-05-06T16:23:00.004-04:00

Dona Isadora Riesling 2006 - $11.95
Style: W3
Chile

Riesling from Chile? Why not, when it can show rich aromas of mango, apricot and lemon with just a touch of paraffin. The palate is totally dry, with a light apple flavour and a tart finish. Good body and very good length. The here is terrific although I'd like to see more reisling character on the palate. A good match for any kind of roasted bird or stir fry. (LCBO 57182)

A Canadian Moment

Strewn Gewurztraminer VQA - 2006 -$12.95
Style: W3
Ontario: Niagara

This is on limited offer for a dollar off, making it an even better value. Very full on the nose with rose, apricot and a touch of spiced apple. Round and soft on the palate, slightly tart, with white peach and apple flavour, and a slightly oily texture. I'd like to see a bit more on the palate, but otherwise it's a good offering and should work well with seafoods, or cured ham . (LCBO 65359)

Wine of the Week for April 28, 2008

2008-04-28T09:56:00.000-04:00

Tarapaca Carmenere Reserva 2006 - $12.80
Style: R2
Chile

Carmenere is losing ground in its homeland but it’s becoming one of Chile’s most important as well as distinctive grapes. The colour here is Inky black-cherry. The nose is intriguing with aromas of dark cherry, tar, dark chocolate, and vanilla. The rich, juicy palate shows gobs of dark berry flavours, with a firm acidity and mellow tannins. Quite big and with very good length, it will please shiraz fans. Serve with bean dishes, grilled meats or old flavourful cheeses. (LCBO 64436)

Wine of the Week for April 21, 2008

2008-04-23T12:28:00.000-04:00

Volto Pinot Grigio Venezie IGT 2006 - $13.95
Style: W3
Italy: Venezie

There’s a big marketing boost on for this one at the LCBO. The nose is spicy, with melon, pear, ripe apple, and a touch of peach aromas. Finely textured on the palate, with ripe peach and pear flavours and a soft acidity, with very good body and length. A refreshing wine that totally suits this warm weather, and would work well with pork, sausages or smoked salmon . (LCBO 64089)

Wine of the Week for April 14, 2008

2008-04-15T11:11:00.002-04:00

Vineland Cabernet Franc 2006 - $13.95
Style: R3
Canada: Niagara

The nose here is slightly gamey, showing wet grass, blueberry and tobacco. Tart on the palate, with ripe red current flavour and soft tannins supported by good body and length. A yummy wine that would work with chicken dishes, shepherd pie, and will also mature well. (LCBO 594127)

Wine of the Week for March 31, 2008

2008-03-31T10:00:00.001-04:00

Montgras Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2006 - $11.15
Style: W2
Chile

This is a splendid wine for the price, and just right for welcoming some warmer weather. The nose shows loads of grass right up front, with ripe grapefruit and a touch of melon right behind. Smooth and creamy one the palate, with apple and grapefruit flavour, a hint of spritz and a tangy, somewhat tart close. Very good body and length and a good match for firm cheeses, seafoods or asparagus dishes. (LCBO 58362)

Wine of the Week for March 24, 2008

2008-03-24T09:38:00.000-04:00

Hillebrand Artist Series Gamay Noir VQA 2006 - $11.65
Style: R1
Ontario: Niagara

I’m a big fan of what Ontario’s vintners can accomplish with the Gamay grape. This one hints at its burgundian roots with aromas of underbrush, sweet strawberry and a touch of black pepper. The palate is light, with modest tannins, soft acidity, cherry and raspberry flavours, lightish bodied with very good length and a peppery close. Buy it for the nose and serve with flavourful fish. (LCBO 58610)

Wine of the Week for March 17, 2008

2008-03-17T09:14:00.000-04:00

Casillero del Diablo Chardonnay 2007 - $11.95
Style: W1
Chile

We always see good value from this century-old winery. The nose shows sweet toasty oak, ripe apple, a subtle hint of butter, and a wee bit of melon. It's very palate friendly -- smooth and soft, with mainly apple flavour, a lemony tang, and medium body and length. It falls into the "MOR" category, so no big foods here. Stick with fish, veal or perhaps a vegetable quiche. (LCBO 58420)

Wine of the Week for March 10, 2008

2008-03-11T10:26:00.002-04:00

Sella & Mosca Cannonau Reserva 2004 - $13.95
Style: R2
Italy

This one seems to have been overlooked on the Vintages shelves -- there's lots available. The grape is otherwise known as grenache, but this is a purely Sardinian rendering. Pale garnet-ruby colour. rich aromas of blackberry and saddle leather with a hint of spice. delicate on the palate, yet wonderfully flavourful, loaded with spice and dark berry flavours a top silky tannins. Quite delightful and would work well with stews, sausageor tomato dishes. (Vintages 425488)

Wine of the Week for March 3, 2008

2008-03-03T19:21:00.003-05:00

Espiritu du Chile Sauvignon Blanc 2006 - $10.95
Style: W2
Chile

This spirited number plays like an every day Italian white. The very pleasant nose presents subtle pink grapefruit and grass aromas, with a hint of vanilla. Light on the palate, with mainly grapefruit flavour and a pleasantly tart finish. Good body and very good length, it will go well with lighter fare. Think 'lunch'. (LCBO 60640)

Worth looking for...

Four Emus Sauvignon-Semillon 2005 - $14.15
Style: W2
Australia

This product, unfortunately, has been discontinued at the LCBO, but there is still quite a bit of stock available. The nose shows loads of gooseberry and green pepper, with a hint of black pepper. Round yet crisp on the palate, spicy with gobs of grapefruit, apple and gooseberry. Very good body and length. A terrific example that's not overpowered by the semillon. (LCBO 615039)

Wine of the Week for February 25, 2008

2008-02-25T09:58:00.001-05:00

Ironstone Vineyards Black Anvil Shiraz 2005 - $13.35
Style: R2
California

Very spicy on the nose, with fruit leather, blackberry and dark chocolate aromas. The palate starts of sweetish, with gobs of ripe cherry flavour, soft tannins and a cool acidity. Very good body and length. A bit jammy, but will pair very nicely with beef stew, hard cheeses or aprés snow. (LCBO 45567)

Wine of the Week for February 18, 2008

2008-02-20T08:33:00.002-05:00

Flat Roof Manor Pinot Grigio 2007 - $11.95
Style: W3
South Africa

This is a "Wine of Origin", which means you’re getting a taste of the terroir. The nose shows delicate citrus and stonefruits aromas with nuances of floral and spice. Somewhat sweetish on the palate, with a refreshing acidity, lemon and grapefruit flavours, and a touch of apple at the close. Very good body and length -- and very good value. Try with cream sauces, pork or full flavoured fish. (LCBO 27128)

Wine of the Week for February 11, 2008

2008-02-12T19:21:00.002-05:00

Espiritu du Chile Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 - $10.95
Style: R3
Chile

The full black cherry colour hints at the richness here. Aromas include wood, dried strawberry and traces of plum and black currant. Approaching juicy, with a ripe dark berry flavours; smooth, almost creamy with a firm mouthfeel and tart acidity. Fairly full bodied with good length, it’s very good performance for a low-priced cab. Try with beef tenderloin, lasagne or anything garlicky. (LCBO 60657)

Canadian Made…

Peller Estates Heritage Cabernet-Merlot VQA 2006 - $11.60
Style: R3
Ontario: Niagara

Peller is one of Canada’s biggest vintners, and it’s good to see this kind of value coming from that quarter. Deep black cherry in colour, the wine shows delicate vanilla, black current and vanilla aromas with traces of roses and garrigue. Somewhat juicy with drying tannins, a solid backbone and dried berry flavours, and very good body and length. Not a stunner but solid character that would work well with grilled meats or robust cheeses. (LCBO 58628)

Wine of the Week for February 4, 2008

2008-02-04T08:26:00.000-05:00

Herederos Marques de Riscal 2006 - $12.10
Style: W2
Spain

White wines from Rueda are a wonderful alternative to sauvignon blanc. Here you will find aromas of melon, grapefruit, lemon and a touch of passionfruit. There's loads of ripe grapefruit flavour on the palate, somewhat mouth-filling with a solid acid spine. Bright and cheery and an excellent value. Try with stuffed peppers, tangy cheeses or vegetarian. (LCBO 36822)

A New Frontier?

Muskoka Lakes Cranberry Wine "QC" 2006 - $13.05
Fruit Wine
Ontario

It's nice to see a real "fruit" wine on LCBO shelves. Lovely baked cranberry aroma combine with mulling spices and tea for a distinctive nose. Sweet and tart on the uptake with a nice citrusy/cranberry flavour and a crisp, dry finish. Light on the palate, with good length, and a unique choice that would go well with roasted poultry. (LCBO 609701)

Wine of the Week for January 28, 2008

2008-01-28T09:45:00.000-05:00

Red Guitar Old Vine Tempranillo/Garnacha 2005 - $12.85
Style: R3
Spain: Navarra

Here’s two Old World grapes done in a New World style. The nose presents spice and oak off the top, followed by caramel, dark berries, sassafras, vanilla, and ginger aromas. The velvety smooth palate has just hint of sugar, with juicy raspberry flavours and light tannins. Fairly full bodied, and very good length, with a touch of bitterness on the close. An intriguing dance between traditional and modern tastes … and development in the glass is amazing. Try with any sort of roast, goulash or steak & kidney pie. (LCBO 54007)

Worth looking for...

Duque de Viscu 2004 - $12.85
Style: R3
Portugal Dao

I noticed a few bottles of this one at a couple of different Vintages stores. It shows intense garrigue out of the gate, settling down to rich ripe red berries and a hint of spice. Rich and juicy with "old boot" tannins, and tasting of blackberry, blueberry and raisin atop a firm acid core. Rustic but with loads of character and may even become more interesting over the next two years. (Vintages 546309)

Wine of the Week for January 14, 2008

2008-01-15T09:44:00.000-05:00

Drostdy-hof Chardonnay 2006 - $9.60
Style: W1
South Africa

Can an under $9 wine actually be good? Until Feb 3, the LCBO is offering a full dollar off this little gem. The nose shows tropical fruits, spiced apple, almond, and butter. A racy acidity supports green apple, baked lemon and toast flavours. Very good body and length, it's a bit young and nervous right now, but quite enjoyable. Just for fun, tuck a couple away to see what happens. A nice companion for ocean fish, pork or sea foods. (LCBO 343202)

There's been a lot of press coverage lately about the LCBO pushing the average price point on their store shelves. This doesn't mean that bargains will disappear, but it may make my job a bit trickier. What really concerns me, though, is that their stated mandate for VQA wines (i.e. actually Canadian wines) is a narrow price band - $10.95 - $13.95. That suggests that there will be more VQA wines for me to recommend to you, but based on past experience, I expect that this policy will translate to less choice, not more. We'll see...

Wine of the Week for January 7, 2008

2008-01-07T11:38:00.001-05:00

Caves de Papes Cotes de Ventoux 2006 - $10.85
Style: R2
France: Rhone

Deep black cherry colour in colour, this grenache-based wine shows rich and spicy with a slightly gamey note. Aromas include plum, black currants and earth with a touch of leather. Round and creamy with a cool acidity, firm, slightly-dusty tannins, and dried berry flavours. Very good body and length. A bit young, but very yummy with loads of character. A good match with red meats, moussaka or lamb.

Worth a Look..

I've spoken out regularly on the market's steady move toward a just a few popular grapes. Here are two very good arguments to make every effort to preserve diversity in the vineyard. (My thanks to Mountain Road for "volunteering" these wines or review.)

Mountain Road Marechal Foch 2003 - $12.95
Style: R1
Niagara

One of the best Hybrid grapes, Foch was instrumental in helping the Ontario wine industry get over its dependence on varieties such as Concord and Niagara. Deep black garnet colour, the wine shows rich spice, smoke, black currant, plum, and a bit of earth. There's a nippy spice on the palate, with firm tannins, cherry and blueberry flavours. Very good body and length. Light and fruity and very food friendly with just the right amount of "Foch funk".

Mountain Road Gamay 2003 - $12.95
Style: R1
Niagara

In the event you don't know this bit of trivia, Gamay is the only red grape grown in Beaujolais, and it shows great promise for Ontario as well. Deep ruby garnet colour. The somewhat gamey nose shows prune, leather and smokey aromas. Very smokey on the palate, with firm tannins, cherry-cinnamon flavour and a light profile. Medium bodied and with very good length, it's on a par with the some of the best Beaujolais. Will last another two years in the cellar and it's an incredible bargain. Try with turkey or mainstream chili

Wine of the Week for December 17, 2007

2007-12-17T08:44:00.000-05:00

Konzelmann Pinot Blanc VQA 2006 - $10.15
Style: W1
Canada: Niagara

This is a delightful example of what this grape can do in Niagara. The colour is a medium almond-straw. Rich and spicy on the nose, with citrus, banana, pine and a touch of apricot and a slight woody note. Barely off-dry with yummy apple-grapefruit flavours, delicate acidity and a hint of spritz. A nice choice for antipasto, ham or seasonal bird. (LCBO 219279)

Wine of the Week for December 3, 2007

2007-12-03T09:09:00.000-05:00

Concha y Toro "Trio" Sauvignon Blanc 2005 - $ 12.95
Style: W2
Chile

What I like at Sauvignon is its ability to adapt and even excel in a variety of terroirs. Here we have a medium platinum-straw coloured wine that is loaded lush gooseberries and crushed leaves on the nose with just a touch of crabapple. Tangy orange peel leads off on the palate, with a crisp and refreshing acidity closing with tangy lemon. Very good, fleshy, and with good length. An excellent example of typicity that will go well with any kind of bird or fish, although I would go with stuffed peppers. (LCBO 678656)