Travel Babel

Happy Thanksgiving

2009-11-26T00:04:00.002-07:00

"What's the biggest problem facing the travel industry?"

2009-11-24T06:36:00.002-07:00

Chris Elliott wants your thoughts

That's the question traveler consumer advocate Christopher Elliott is asking readers of his award-winning website. He has declared today as "open-mic Tuesday," and he wants to hear from you. If you've got a gripe or, more productively, a practical suggestion on how to solve a general industry problem that you have identified, drop him an E-note at elliottc@gmail.com, including your full name, occupation and city/state. Besides the opportunity simply to vent, something might come of this, because when Chris Elliott speaks, the travel industry listens.

Daily Beast's New Airport Rankings

2009-11-23T08:16:00.010-07:00

The Daily Beast studied, rated and ranked 27 US airports

The Daily Beast's provocative headline, "Airports from Hell," is affixed to an analysis of 27 top airports in the US in eight specific areas, including on-time arrivals/departures so far in 2009 and a separate evaluation of holiday arrivals and departures, which is oh-so timely. The subtitle is "first to worst," which means they can't all be "from hell."

The best, according to The Beast, is Houston Intercontinental Airport (IAH)

On-time departures 2009: 86.19%
On-time arrivals 2009: 84.73%
On-time holiday departures: 90% (ranked first)
On-time holiday arrivals: 86%
Average security wait time: 6.1 minutes
Tarmac nightmares: 22nd out 27
Safety: 5th out of 27
Amenities: 8th out of 27

The worst is Newark International Airport (EWR)
On-time departures 2009: 73.76%

On-time arrivals 2009: 64.14% (ranked last)
On-time holiday departures: 70% (ranked last)
On-time holiday arrivals: 75%
Average security wait time: 7 minutes
Tarmac nightmares: 23rd out of 27
Safety: 25th out of 27
Amenities: 15th out of 27

Denver International Airport (DIA) ranked 17th
On-time departures 2009: 79.23%

On-time arrivals 2009: 80.84%
On-time holiday departures: 84%
On-time holiday arrivals: 80%
Average security wait time: 11.3 minutes
Tarmac nightmares: 9th out of 27
Safety: 23rd out of 27
Amenities: 24th out of 27

According to The Beast, getting through DIA's security lines took several minutes longer than at the speediest airports, on average, and its "Safety" was downgraded significantly after an incident last year when a Continental plane skidded off a taxiway into a shallow gully (often described as a "ravine," making it seem far deeper than it is), injuring 30 people. A hotel at the terminal, fancy Gucci-esque shops and a better selection of more interesting restaurants might have elevated it in the Amenities category. The Beast quoted Matt Daimler of Seatguru.com who said, “It’s one of the better airports to experience.” As for on-time arrivals and departures, IMHO, when there are delays in Denver, more often than not they are due to delays elsewhere in the country's obsolete air-travel system. The Beast's report is accompanied by a gallery of airport pictures three screens, nine airports to a screen, or as a slide show.

New Denver Sheraton Downtown is City's Largest Hotel

2009-11-19T13:13:00.006-07:00

Former Adam's Mark reborn after $70 million renovation

The gleaming hotel straddling downtown Denver's Court Place place is a new Sheraton, but it's not a new hotel. The tired Adam's Mark is now the Sheraton Denver Downtown following a year-long, $70 million total renovation from the parking garage to the roof. It was officially dedicated yesterday with a champagne reception and ribbon cutting (below) that brought out Mayor John Hickenlooper, business leaders and executives from the hotel's owner (Chartres Lodging Group of San Francisco) and management (Starwood Hotels & Resorts) group. Chartres purchased the hotel for $176 million in early 2008, so a lot of coin is represented in these interconnected buildings.

The hotel is Colorado's largest with 1,231 guest rooms, and Hizzoner noted that when it is fully occupied, its "population" is greater than Breckenridge or Telluride (about 2,400 each). The mayor and tourism leaders praised it as a key to attracting large convention groups, but IMHO, it's also a great location for people who come to Denver for arts and culture. The Denver Center for the Performing Arts is a short walk to the west. The Denver Art Museum is a short stroll across Civic Center Park to the south, and when it opens in 2011, the Clyfford Still Museum will be there too. The galleries of the Golden Triangle Museum District are nearby as well, and the free Mall Shuttle stops right outside the door for a quick ride to the restaurants, shops and nightspots of Larimer Square and the Platt River Valley attractions too.

I haven't seen any of the guest rooms yet, but if the classy, spacious lobby is an indication, they are lovely. The new lobby is bright and attractive, contemporary and yet warm. I particularly like its newly welcoming pedestrian approach from the 16th Mall. The old Adams Mark design, like many newer downtown Denver hotels, is so vehicle-oriented that people coming in on foot after shopping, sightseeing or attending an off-site meeting often felt like afterthoughts.

Once inside, the square columns and the coffered ceiling are about all that is recognizable from the lobby's previous incarnation. Some people might miss the horse sculpture in the old lobby (top image, below), and while I have no particular attachment to it, I do sort of wonder where it went.

Above, the old Adam's Mark lobby

Above, the new Sheraton Denver Downtown lobby

1550 Court Place, Denver, Colorado 80202; 303-893-3333 or 866-716-8134 (reservations).

Winter Park Ski Train Poised for Return

2009-11-16T09:19:00.003-07:00

Train-only and train/lodging packages are options for this ski season

The Rio Grande Scenic Ski Train seems "this close" to finalizing operational agreements for the 2009-10 ski season. The newest incarnation of the inconic ski train between Denver and Winter Park is ready to roll on a three-month winter timetable from December 27 and March 28, according to a report in today's Denver Post. All that remains a sign-off from Amtrak, whose crews will run the train. The train will operate up to four days a week, making about 50 roundtrips this winter and using cars from its summer excrusion train in the San Luis Valley.

The new 17-car trains will have a capacity of 2,000 seats, more than double that of the former ski train. Ed Ellis, president of the San Luis Railroad that will operate the revived ski train, told the Post that the "typical run will have 17 cars — two dome cars that seat 140 each and a mix of club cars and standard coaches." Click here for images of the cars.

Advance tickets are available online and are being purchased, according to the Post. If for any reason that last signoff is not accomplished, full refunds are promised. Regular roundtrip fares will be $49 in a coach car seat, $99 for a premium upper-level seat in a dome car or $600 for a season pass (purchase before December 24). Other early-season values include a 10-ride pass forr $290 and a one-day $79 roundtrip train ticket/lift ticket package (use by February 7). For more information, call 800-726-RAIL.The Winter Park Resort is also packaging a roundtrip train ticket, overnight lodging at the resort base and a lift ticket starting at $139 a day per person. Book that one through the resort, 800-453-2525.

A Gift from the Cyber-Magi: Free Airport WiF

2009-11-13T12:47:00.002-07:00

Google enables free WiFi at 47 new airports for the holidays

We frequent Denver International Airport users have long been spoiled with free WiFi in the main terminal and on all three concourses. E-mail addicts and chronic web surfers like me are shocked and/or disappointed when we are waiting for flights or delayed elsewhere and have toactually pay for WiFi access. From November 16 through January 15, 47 other airports across the country will have free WiFi -- some for the first time. The peak holiday travel season (and peak travel-delay season) is wrapped into this two-month offer, which I think of as a gift, so boot up that laptop and enjoy.

Austin (AUS)
Baltimore (BWI)
Billings (BIL)
Boston Logan (BOS)
Bozeman (BZN)
Buffalo, NY (BUF)
Burbank (BUR)
Central Wisconsin (CWA)
Charlotte, NC (CLT)
Des Moines (DSM)
El Paso (ELP)
Fort Lauderdale (FLL)
Fort Myers (RSW)
Greensboro (GSO)
Houston Hobby (HOU)
Houston International (IAH)
Indianapolis (IND)
Jacksonville (JAX)
Kalamazoo (AZO)
Las Vegas (LAS)
Louisville (SDF)
Madison (MSN)
Memphis (MEM)
Miami (MIA)
Milwaukee (MKE)
Monterey (MRY)
Nashville (BNA)
Newport News (PHF)
Norfolk (ORF)
Oklahoma City (OKC)
Omaha (OMA)
Orlando (MCO)
Panama City, FL (PFN)
Pittsburgh (PIT)
Portland, ME (PWM)
Sacramento (SMF)
San Antonio (SAT)
San Diego (SAN)
San Jose (SJC)
Seattle (SEA)
South Bend (SBN)
Spokane (GEG)
St. Louis (STL)
State College, PA (SCE)
Toledo (TOL)
Traverse City (TVC)
West Palm Beach (PBI)

Google is supporting this program. An additional bonus is that, if you donute to any of the participating non-profits via Google CheckOut vi participating WiF networks, Google will match the gifts up to a maximum of $250,000.

The Broadmoor: Five Stars for the Fiftieth Time

2009-11-10T06:02:00.006-07:00

Colorado's top-of-the-heap Broadmoor offers off-season values; book now!

It is no surprise at all that The Broadmoor, a pink palace on the southwest edge of Colorado Springs, has been awarded the top Five Star rating from the Mobil / Forbes Travel Guide (formerly Mobil Five-Star Award by Mobil Travel Guide). The Broadmoor always wins the highest honor. What is noteworthy that the resort has achieved this honor for a record 50th consecutive year -- the only property to do so. It also has the distinction in 2010 of becoming a triple Five Star winner, with the Penrose Room receiving the highest restaurant designation and The Spa at Broadmoor similarly recognized. It is the only Colorado property to be so honored so often and for so long.

The Mobil Travel Guide originated the prestigious star rating system in the U.S. Think of it as the equivalent of Michelin's stars in Europe. Michelin wanted to sell tires, and similarly, Mobil wanted to sell gasoline. The original Mobil guide is now the Forbes Travel Guide, but its awards are as prestigious as ever. Since 1958, the Mobil Travel Guide’s rigorous ratings process has been based on more than 750 standardized criteria for hotels that begins with a facility inspection considering every aspect of the property, including its overall cleanliness, condition, and location. To achieve Four and Five Star Status, hotels and resort properties must meet or exceed bar-setting service standards as determined byt an unannounced, undercover service evaluation conducted by the Travel Guide’s expert inspectors.

The Broadmoor, which opened in 1918, is quite a spread. It has 744 rooms and suites including 44 cottage bedrooms; 185,000 square feet of flexible event space; a world-class spa; three championship golf courses; a tennis club; 25 retail shops; 18 on property eateries, restaurants and lounges; a full children's program, and more. The Penrose Room, a classic fine-dining restaurant since 1961, is Colorado’s only Forbes Travel Guide Five Star/AAA Five-Diamond Restaurant, making it the most celebrated restaurant in Colorado history in the most celebrated hotel. The Spa at Broadmoor provides 43,000 square feet of sybaritic luxury: spa, salon and fitness center using cutting-edge products and treatments in a setting old-world charm and European elegance. It's hard not to rave about the The Broadmoor, which is simply the best.

The Best for Less

The Broadmoor opened at the end of World War I but rode out the Great Depression, World War II and changes in the way people travel without ever losing its edge. In light of the current economic downturn, the resort is offering Five Star luxury at affordable prices, starting at $80 per person, per night in a standard hotel room between November 15 and February 28. It includes complimentary access to the resort's own movie theater, a complimentary Serenity shower or tub soak with any spa service, 15% discount on select retail shops and a 10% discount at Charles Court, the award-winning Penrose Room or Tavern. During the holidays, The Broadmoor is decked out in an over-the-top (but exceedingly tasteful) display of lights and decorations.

The Broadmoor is at One Lake Avenue, Colorado Springs; 866-837-9520 or 719-577-5775.

Berlin Wall Sections: A Fragment Here, A Fragment There

2009-11-09T06:45:00.004-07:00

November 9, 2009, marks the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Wall

With so much strife on the planet, the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall gives hope and celebration. After all, not long before the Wall came down in 1989, it seemed as if it would be there forever. I passed through Checkpoint Charlie on a one-day visit to East Berlin on my first trip to Europe a lifetime ago, and it was one East German guard's later opening of one checkpoint that opened the floodgate and changed modern German history.

As passed through the checkpoint into East Berlin, knowing that I could leave in a few hours, I realized that I had taken the freedom of movement for granted. It was eerie to walk down East Berlin's empty streets, past rubble and weed-choked vacant lots still left from World War II. I have not been to Berlin since, though I hope to visit next year during a planned trip to Germany, and I know that the gleaming, modern creative city bears only the slightest resemblance to the one I wandered around.

Berlin has a lot to celebrate, and celebrate it will. The Festival of Freedom starts this evening at 5:00 p.m., local time at the Brandenburg Gate, and an open air exhibition called "Peaceful Revolution" continues through October 2010.

I have seen segments of the Wall in Rapid City, South Dakota (above), and Portland, Maine (and probably elsewhere as well), but I didn't realize how many portions of the Wall have been erected as memorials. Click here for the list. Interestingly, there are 36 in the Americas (four in New York City alone) but only 13 in Europe -- just two in Germany itself. In Berlin, a line of cobblestones follows the original footprint of the Wall. News footage of the fall of the Wall was telecast over the weekend, and I think Berlin is commemorating the event, but I wonder how many other places with segments have organized something. Do you know?

Nottoway Plantation: 150-Year-Old Louisiana Jewel

2009-11-07T20:49:00.002-07:00

Newly restored antebellum mansion is glorious to visit -- for a tour or for the night

In 1859, shortly before the War Between the States, John Hampden Randolph, his wife, Emily Jane Liddell Randolph, and their 11 children moved into the newly complete Nottoway Plantation in the heart of Louisiana's Plantation Country. Unlike many of the great houses built with cotton and sugarcane, Nottoway was not seriously damaged during the war even though both Union and Confederate troops camped on the grounds, and it was fired on and still bears a few bullet scars.

At 53,000 square feet, Nottoway is the largest remaining antebellum mansion in the southern United States. It was built with 64 rooms on three floors, six interior staircases, three "modern" bathrooms with flush toilets and hot and cold running water, gas lights, 22 massive square columns, 165 doors and 200 windows. Construction of this gracious and grandiose mansion is estimated to have cost $80,000.

The plantation house is open for public tours. For years, it was on the regular motorcoach day tour itinerary from New Orleans. Groups -- many on convention spouse programs -- would drive up, tour the mansion, have lunch in a large dedicaed pavilion and leave. After Hurricane Katrina in 2005, the convention business took a hit -- and so did Nottoway Plantation. Paul Ramsay, an Australian entrepreneur, purchased the property and financed the restoration of the mansion, which is on the National Register of Historic Places. I've tried to find out how much the restoration cost but haven't been successful.

Most of the furniture is not original, but all reflects accuracy to the period.

When you see the 4,200 linear feet of extraordinary plaster friezework and scroll ornaments in the public rooms, it is difficult to envision it as a combination of mud, clay, horsehair and Spanish moss under the confectionary paint.The all-white ballroom is sparsely furnished, because people did have to have room to dance.

I like to see formal dining rooms with all the accoutrements of gracious 19th-century dining, from celery glasses toknife rests.

Each hand-painted plate (from France, I believe) has a different design in the center.

The second-floor veranda overlooks the levee that separates Nottoway from the Mississippi. Rock on!

Below is not a room on the manor-house tour. It was my room for the night that I spent at Nottaway Plantation, which now also operates as a bed-and-breakfast inn. My gorgeous antique-filled room in one of the wings, not in the mansion itself, was one of the simpler ones. The home also houses a new fine-dining establishment called The Mansion Restaurant.

I have to say that it was hard to tear myself away the next morning.

Nottoway Historic Inn, as the B&B is now called, has an extraordinary special through November 30: $150 per night for two, including a welcome beverage, tour and a full breakfast. 31025 Louisiana Highway 1 (off The Great River Road), White Castle, LA 70788. Reserve online or by calling 866-LASouth (866-527-6884) or 225-545-2730 (Monday through Friday, 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., Central Time).

San Miguel de Allende'sBotanical Garden

2009-11-06T20:05:00.002-07:00

Charco del Ingenio showcases Western Hemisphere cacti in a protected landscape

The roughly 154 acres occupied by the unique botanical garden called Charco del Ingenio outside of San Miguel de Allende is reportedly second most important collection of cacti in Mexico, after Mexico City. That would rank Cacti Mundi that my husband and I visited in San Jose del Cabo several years ago number three or less. The Chacro del Ignenio is a pirvately funded ecological preservation area that began 18 years ago with 60 species now dispays some 550 cacti varieties from native habitats that stretch from Patagonia to Canada, but mostly species that grow in Mexico.

Mario Hernandez is knowledgeable passionate about the plants under his care. He is still awed by cacti's ability to store water and yet transform CO2 into O2 He points out that cacti are edible, and have religious, medicinal and spiritual value as well. And did I mention that they are great to look at too? He didn't bother saying that. I think he realizes that is self-evident.

Below are just a few examples of the varied and wonderful cacti growing at the Charco del Ingenio Botanical Garden.

The botanical garden includes flat dry land, a canyon, spring-fed wetlands and even a lake. The section nearest to the entrance is laced with easy paths. The natural area across the canyon is largely wild and includes the ruins of an old hacienda. We didn't have time to go look at that.

Cactus "buds" and cactus flowers.

When the Dalai Lama visited Mexico in 2005, he came to Charco del Ingnio and blessed the Plaza of the Four Winds, a ceremonial and scenic gathering place designed by architect Enrique Pliego and honoring local indigenous groups.Built with inlaid colored stones,wasinspired by the 16th-century Chichimeca-Toltec codex, the plaza is designed with four outer circles that indicate the four cardinal directions and corresponding figures that evoke the four natural resources (earth, water, flora and fauna) in traditional pre-Columbian colors. Reached by a smooth, flat but unpaved trail, it is one of the few places in San Miguel Allende that is wheelchair-accessible.

The Charco del Ingenio is open for self-guided visits, with 2 1/2-hour guided tours presently given on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 10:00 a.m. The cost is 50 pesos.

Mega Mao Joins Other Gigantic Sculptures

2009-11-04T16:57:00.002-07:00

The chairman joins four US presidents and one very nobel Native American leader

Sulptor Gutzon Borglum (who is always referred to as "Borglum") and his helpers carved these four gigantic heads of four important presidents out of South Dakota granite. Mt.Rushmore is now a National Monument, administered by the US Park Service.Nearly 2.5 million visitors a year come to gaze at Presidents George Washington, Thomas Jefferson. Teddy Roosevert and Abraham Lindoln. Borglum, whose father was an immigrant from Denmark, began working on the South Dakota project in 1927 and remained involved until he died in 1941 at the age of 74.

Just seven years after Borglum's death, sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski (who is always referred to as "Korczak") began sculpting a nearby mountain into what will someday be a statue of Crazy Horse, the great Lakota chief to honor Native Americans. When completed, it will be world's largest sculpture. Born in Boston into a Polish-American family, Korczak worked virtually alone until his death in 1982, like Borglum also at the age of 74. His last words to his wife, Ruth, were, "You must work on the mountain-but go slowly so you do it right." Ruth and eight of their 10 children operate Crazy Horse Memorial Foundation board of directors and guide Crazy Horse toward eventual completion.

Meanwhile, in Mao Zedong's home province of Hunan, a gigantic head is being constructed -- not carved out of a mountain, but built on a concrete frame. China has the biggest defense wall (the Great Wall of China), the biggest dam (the Three Gorges Dam) and one of the tallest skyscrapers (the 101-story World Financial Center in Shanghai, the second tallest skyscraper on the planet -- at least until the completion of Burj Dubai).

By the Sea, By the Santa Barbara Sea

2009-11-03T15:12:00.012-07:00

I recently attended a conference at the Four Seasons Resort, The Biltmore. A handful of people seemed to squeeze in a run or a walk on the beach, but all I had was the occasional ocean view when dashing across the beautifully landscaped property between my room and the conference rooms. I thought a few of the images I grabbed were worth posting. I hope you agree.

'Oasis of the Seas' Now at Sea

2009-11-01T16:25:00.005-07:00

Enormous floating city, the 'Oasis of the Seas,' heading for Florida

The 'Oasis of the Seas' should be called the 'Behemoth of the Seas': 1,187 feet long, 208 feet wide 213 feet (that's more than 20 stories!) high from the water line, 16 passenger decks, 5,400 passengers (double occupancy; 6,296 guests total if a body is crammed into every sleeping space) and 2,165 crew from over 71 countries. One of the two dozen elevators is equipped with a bar. The center of the ship is something like a landscaped atrium called Central Park. I guess that way they can book more "balcony cabins." The $1.6 billion ship's own website features click-on video that reminds me of an infomercial. First comes the captain, telling viewers that the crew is "wowed" by the ship. Then we see individual crew members saying, "WOW!" individual and then in unison.

I can't say. "Wow!" If it weren't too late, I'd say "Woah! Hold on!" But it's too late, for she is sailing to start service with her first regular passengers boarding in early December. A ship that at peak capacity holds nearly 8,500 passengers and crew overwhelms everything it encounters. On the winter itinerary, the eastern and western itineraries are very similar. In and out of Fort Lauderdale, then to three ports. Labadee is Royal Caribbean's private island for those who prefer activities to any interaction with any real Caribbean residents. Falmouth on Jamaica's north coast is a new port for Royal Caribbean, which operates a fleet of cruise ships whos last name is "...of the Seas." Falmouth is a heritage site, currently under restoration. I haven't been there, but it sounds like the Williamsburg of Jamaica. Cozumel, Mexico is an island where my husband and I dived many years ago, when cruise ships -- all a fraction of the "Oasis'" size -- anchored in the local harbor and passengers were tendered ashore. Now, an out-of-town pier with built-in shopping opportunities is passengers' first (and often only) port of call there.The "Oasis of the Seas" therefore qualifies as the world's largest floating cocoon.

Passengers enter the cocoon from a new $75 million, 240,000-square-foot terminal built specificallyto be the home port for new the Oasis ships, both the "Oasis of the Seas" and the even newer "Allure of the Seas," scheduled to debut late next year). Between them, these ships are expected to bring more than 500,000 cruise passengers through Port Everglades every year. That's half-a-million people.

I do not need to post the remarkable specs and all of the facilities and activities of the "Oasis of the Seas" here. It certainly is a marvel of maritime engineering (even the stacks retract so it can pass under certain large but not-high-enough bridges). But I question the entire concept of bigger-is-better and glitzier-is-ritzier cruising. It seems like a bad idea environmental, sociologically and even socially. Segmenting this enormous ship into "neighborhoods" doesn't make it any smaller or less intimate.

Sure, it's a wow! but a Wow! that comes with a price. Like Rome, this gigantic cruise ship was not built in a day. I wonder whether Royal Caribbean would embark on such a project in today's economy and with today's sensibilities.

Guanajuato's Mummies: Halloween-Style Fright

2009-10-31T21:10:00.017-06:00

36 Mexican mummies touring US museums, starting in Detroit

When I was a child, I once had a skeleton Halloween costume. It was a one-piece black garment with bones printed on the front and sleeves. The back was all-black. I can't remember why I wanted it at the time. Even as an adult who accompanied many a grade-school field trip to the Denver Museum of Natural History (now the Denver Museum of Nature & Science) and other displays of dinosaur bones, skeletons of long-extinct animals don't bother me. But mummies give me the willies. I don't really like to see their exhumation, unwrapping and examination on television documentaries, and when I visited the Egyptian Museum in Cairo earlier this year, I had plenty to look at without going to the mummy room.

Needless to say, I was less than excited to learn that one of the supposed highlights of a tour of Guanajuato included the city's Mummy Museum.
The museum backs against the municipal cemetery, where relatives could pay a one-time high fee for the grave or pay a lower fee each year. The mummies displayed were "evicted" from their crypts when their survivors or other relatives (if there were any) could not or would pay a tax or fee for the continuing occupation of the grave. The mummies displayed date from between 1865 and 1958, when the grave-tax law was changed. They are known as "the accidental mummies," because natural conditions created mummification, rather than a deliberate intention of mummifying human remains.The museum collection comprises 119 mummies, some standing, some lying down, some erect, some contorted, some clothed, others not. But to me, they were all creepy.

I managed to hold it together until I reached the room with the small children and babies. Then, I snapped one photograph and fled. Those small mummified bodies really creeped me out.

The parking area in front of the museum is lined with small businesses. Early in the morning, this "Mummy Sweet Shop" was not yet open.

Numerous souvenir stands sold all the regulation Mexican tourist schlock-- plus skulls of various designs.

According to the Mummy Tombs website, which describes mummies in various lands and is clearly maintained by someone who does not share my antipathy to mummies, 36 Guanajuato mummies started touring the US on October 10 and will visit seven museums before they return to Guanajuato. Some have reportedly never been on public view before, even in Guanajuato. The Detroit Science Center is the first stop for "The Accidental Mummies of Guanajuato" exhibition, which closes there on January 31, 2010. I haven't had any luck finding out which other six cities is is supposed to visit. If one happens to be Denver, I doubt I'll go to see them.

Images of Guanajuato the Gorgeous

2009-10-29T22:54:00.037-06:00

Charmed location and charming center in fabulous Spanish colonial city

Guanajuato is one of the most beautiful cities I've seen. Set in deep valley and connected to the "outside" by tunnels through the steep mountains, this Spanish colonial gem is a vibrant, walkable city. Its narrow lanes, kaleidoscope of color and a cacophony of sound are energetic and energizing. Site of the 21,000-student University of Guanajuato, it is a youthful city as well.

Lording over the city, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is this heroic statue of El Pipila, a hero of the Mexican Independence movement two centuries ago.

Spreading beneath El Pipila's feet is this enticing panorama.

This steep funicular whisks passengers between the plaza in front the El Pipila monument and the heart of the old colonial city.

The funicular's base terminal is just a block from the triple-domed basilica and the simple back of the Teatro Juarez.

The theater and the basilica from the front.

The landscaped plaza across the street is not a customary square but a triangle, but still squeezes in a gazebo and a fountain..

India laurels, pruned to box-like shapes, grow thick and provide shade.

India laurel branches are all but impenetrable. I watched a small boy try to climb the tree and give up in discouragement, because even he found now route through.

The center of Guanajuato has two main vehicular streets, several pedestrian-only streets and a maze of narrow colonial streets.

Guanajuato's wealth came from rich silver mines in the surrounding mountains. Ore carts are used as decorative objects here and there in town.

Simple swinging doors to a neighborhood bar invite photography -- or entry.

The following images are just buildings and streetscapes that appealed to me.

Artist Diego Rivera was born in Guanajuato. His family's house is now a museum. The ground floor is furnished with period antiques, and the upper floors are a museum of his and contemporary artists' works.

Just as US cities boast Mexican restaurants, Guanajuato has a bagel place. Cultural cross-fertilization works both ways.

Good night, Guanajuato.

AlaskaTransportation News

2009-10-27T07:22:00.005-06:00

Alaska travel representatives met with travel met media & shared news

Alaska is one of my favorite places. I've been from Southeast (Juneau, Wrangell, Petersburg, Ketchikan, Skagway, Haines, Sitka) to Prudhoe Bay on the Arctic Ocean. I've been there is summer (glorious weather, abundant wildflowers, sport fishing, hiking) and in winter (fabulous skiing, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling, dogsledding). The cities and towns are enticing year-round. Here are some recent and upcoming developments in transportation that are of interest to Alaska visitors:

Transportation (Cruise Ships, Ferries, Trains)

Alaska Marine Highway - The ferries remain the best way for thrifty independent travelers to explore the coat. Eleven ferries travel on 3,500 miles of sea lanes between Bellingham, Washington, to Dutch Harbor in the Aleutians. Ferries accommodate vehicles (including RVs), motorcycles, bicycles and kayaks. Reserve for vehicles and staterooms, but foot passengers can just walk on. They're welcome to pitch a tent on the back deck and eat their own food.

Alaska Railroad - A self-propelled railcar, the Chugach Explorer, entered service earlier this year on the Glacier Discovery Route between Whitier and Trail Creek. The railroad partnered with the Forest Service for ranger-guided hikes on the Spencer Glacier Trail, a whistle stop on the route. It is efficient, quiet and emits for fewer pollutants than conventional locomotives. During 2009, the railroad has been offering a free one-day Adventure Class train trip to anyone turning 50 during the year. Perhaps, it or a similar promotion will be available in 2010 -- but meanwhile, if you celebrated the big 5-0 in '09 and will be in Alaska, grab your free ticket.

American Safari Cruises - In 2010, seven-day sailings to/from Juneau on intimate 12-, to 36-passenger yachts include two days in Glacier Bay. Guests can sea kayak or zodiac to explore the shore, opportunities not offered to big-ship cruises passengers. The first of two larger (but not much larger) vessels enters service in 2011 under the brand, InnerSea Discoveries.

Cruise West - The "Spirit of Oceanus" won't be sailing Alaskan waters in 2010, because this small ship embarks on The Voyages of the Great Explorers, a round-the-world cruise on March 6, 2010.

Gray Line Alaska - Sixty-year-old operator of sightseeing programs operates more than 200 motorcoaches, 10 railcars and two day boats now has new packages that include overnights in Princess Lodges.

Holland America - In 2010, the line's "Amsterdam" sails a regular 14-day Seattle-Anchorage itinerary that includes the new (to Holland America) ports of Homer and Kodiak Island.

Princess Cruises - For 2010, new Family Fun Cruisetour, a 12-night cruise + land package with pricing discounted for entire families, not just additional passengers sharing the cabin. Land portion includes two nights in Fairbanks, two just outside of Denali National Parks.

Seldovia Bay Ferry - New ferry at the southern end of the gorgeous Kenai Peninsula linking the artsy town of Homer with Seldovia, a seldom-visited (until 2010), roadless village where the Seldovia Village Tribe has a new museum. Also, abundant birding, hiking and a historic Russian Orthodox Church. Fare: adult $59, $29.59 ages 12 and under roundtrip, including a look at the Gull Island Bird Sanctuary, where some 16,000 seabirds nest.

On the Road Again

2009-10-25T15:54:00.002-06:00

My own travel schedule has me dizzy

My recent travel schedule has had me at airports and in the air almost as much as airline crew. Since October 8, I have flown to Guadalajara and back on Continental via Houston, to Louisiana and back via Dallas/Fort Worth via American (to Baton Rouge and from New Orleans) and I’m now in Santa Barbara on United and US Airways with a change of plane in Phoenix, an itinerary I’ll be reversing on Tuesday. One more trip like this and I’ll meet myself at Denver International Airport. I will have been on a dozen flights passing through eight airports in two countries and four US states, with a total of 86 hours at home. I'm both exhausted and exhilarated. Random thoughts:

Highlights – No flight delays and minimal security lines. Free WiFi at Denver International Airport and Phoenix Skyharbor.

Low point – Having my watch stolen at the security checkpoint at Houston International Airport. I reported it, and some level of investigation was purportedly initiated. I’ll blog about it if and when the issue is resolved.

With all that, you might forgive me for being 1½ trips behind in posting.

Mexican Knockers -- Door Knockers, That Is

2009-10-24T00:49:00.011-06:00

Some doors of San Miguel de Allende's colonial city center are plain and others are fancy. The door knockers are invariably interesting. Here are a few:

Where to Watch Wild Weather

2009-10-16T20:15:00.007-06:00

The Weather Channel stormwatcher picked 10 spots; I have an 11th

If you've ever seen a tornado, you've watched wild weather. Those who were in Miami for Hurricane Andrew, in New Orleans for Hurricane Katrina or on Galveston Island for Hurricane Ike certainly witnessed devastatingly wild weather, as did those in the path of assorted tsunamis, typhoons and earthquakes. If you want to experience wild weather, check out The Weather Channel's stormtracker's Jim Cantore list of 10 vacation destinations for experiencing "wacky weather." He added suggestions of the best (therefore least wild and wacky) times to go there, but I'm not including those here. After all, if you're seeking wild weather, you don't want mild weather -- and I have one of my own to add (photo at right, and my suggestion below).

Cantore's Top 10 Wild Weather Destinations

Death Valley, California - The hottest, driest and lowest-elevation spot in North America; 760-786-3200

Breaux Bridge, Louisiana - Cantore was there during Hurricane Gustav and watched the storm roll in over the Delta; 888-565-5939

Dangriga Town, Belize - Hurricanes and tropical storms can wallop the coast of this Central American town; 800-624-0686

International Falls, Minnesota -Nicknamed "the icebox of America," this is the coldest town the continental United States; 800-325-5766. Just last year, Fraser, Colorado, was vying for the title, and everything in the lower 48 pales beside places inland in Alaska. think Fairbanks.

Gulf Coast, Mississippi - Cantore cited Hurricane Katrina as an example of the coast's brutal wather phenomena; 888-467-4853

Sydney, Australia - "Vast Australia experiences weather ranging from snowstorms to sandstorms, said Cantore, but singled out Sydney for its "phenomenal dust storms"; 310-695-3200

Killington, Vermont -"Mountains on one side and the coastline on the other," said Cantore, described as a native Vermonter. I wonder why he picked Killington. How about Sugarloaf, Maine, of Mont Ste.-Anne, Quebec, like Killington, ski mountains that rise above the surrounding countryside; 802-773-4181

Big Island of Hawaii, Hawaii - Cantore cited thick clouds atop snow-capped Mauna Kea, but he didn't mention the fumes that blow from Kilauea, a volcano that has been erupting and producing lava flows since January 3, 1983; 800-464-2924

Crater Lake, Oregon - Cantore mentions "snow [that] can cover the landscape from October through June in some areas," but that's no big deal for us Coloradans. He also mentiones that "the coastal region of Oregon can get more than 100 inches of rain annually, which in higher elevations translates to a lot of snow — as much as 16 feet at times." The Sierra Nevada range is similar; 541-594-3000

Barrow, Alaska - Cantore says that temperatures in the country's northernmost city average temperature is 10 degrees plus 64 days without sun, 907-852-5211

No. 11 from Claire

How could a stormwatcher ignore the west coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, where the storm-watching season stretches from November through Feburary. Hotels and resorts in and between the hamlets of Tofino and Ucluelet offer storm-watching packages for guests who really want to experience wild Pacific storms. The photo above comes for the Wickaninnish Inn; 250-725-3100.

Do You Have a 12th to Add?

Let me here from you. Leave a comment with your suggestions.

Promising a Report from Mexico

2009-10-14T19:42:00.002-06:00

I have been in Mexico since Thursday, first at the 2009 Society of American Travel Writers convention in Guadalajara with a cast of hundres and now with a smaller group on a post-convention extention to Guanajuato. I saw virtually nothing of Guadalajara I the Hospicio Cabanas for an evening opening reception, the Corona brewery and various streets and neighborhood. I have seen a lot of Guanajuato and am staying at the quaint Hotel Mision, where the Internet access, electrical infrastructure and telephone are also quaint. I have conscientiously taken picturs and notes, and when I get somewhere with less qauint Internet access, I intend to share my travel experiences with you. Stay tuned.

Strolling the Real Tlaquepaque

2009-10-14T18:28:00.019-06:00

I have been to Sedona's Tlaquepaque arts and crafts shopping and gallery center, and enjoyed browsing there immensely. But the real thing, the original, the old town about 10 miles from Guadalajara is even better. This community of more than half-a-million inhabitants inspired the Arizona shopping area.

Below are the tops of two landmark churches, El Santuario de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad (The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Solitude) and San Pedro (Saint Peter),

Many of Tlaquepaque's streets are for pedestrians only.

The old town is full of Talaquepaque history.

Beautiful carved door.

The center of Tlapequaque is clean and graffiti-free.

Small shops line narrow, car-free streets selling all manner of goods for residents and visitors.

Portals on some buildings along wider streets, like the main pedestrian street, protect people of sun and rain.

Open doors permit a peak of lovely center courtyards.

Food vendors are ubiquitous.

As are imaginative buisness, like this man who hacksaws any name onto a black key in just minutes.

And then, there's music, music everywhere.

And art and crafte as well, from very ancient...

...to very new.

Guadalajara's Hospicio Cabañas Fab Faberge Exhibition

2009-10-12T05:18:00.010-06:00

Imperial Russian treasures displayed in magnificent Spanish Colonial landmark

The opening reception of the Society of American Travel Writers' 2009 convention took place in Gaudalajara's magnificent, monumental Hospicio Cabañas. Originally a hospital and refuge for the homeless and the helpless, and later an orphanage, it now houses the Cabañas Cultural Institute and its schools for arts and crafts, and it has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Aficionados of Spanish Colonial architecture know it for its grandiose presence in the heart of Mexico' second-largest city. Art lovers revere the brooding, dramatic murals painted by Jose Clemente Orozco more than 120 years after the building was completed. Much of Orozco's work in his native country was destroyed, because it was considered to dark and too violent, but masterpiece remains.

That we would see Orozco's work in the Hospicio Cabañas was no surprise. What was a surprise is that at the end of the opening event, someone casually mentioned that the Faberge collection would be left open for us. If you read Spanish better than I do, click here for more information on the exhibit. I have no idea how long this magnificent exhibition of Romanoff treasures will be open, but I was thrilled to have seen it. Photography was permitted -- under the watchful eyes of armed guards --but I was too busy looking and trying to puzzle out the key parts of Spanish descriptions of each object to try to take lots of pictures, and some that I snapped through glass didn't come out all that well. There were, of course, jewel-encrusted compacts, cigarette cases and more; paintings and paper documents; swords and scepters; garments and opulent geegasws, and an intruiging explanation of the role the late Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis had in protecting (or something) Romanoff treasures when as an editor with Doubleday, she shepherded a book on the topic.

Guadalajara: A Wet Welcome

2009-10-10T21:59:00.005-06:00

I arrived in Guadalajara on Thursday afternoon for the Society of American Travel Writers' 2009 convention. The sky was gray, but it was not raining when we landed. I know this for sure, because the airport (GDL) does not have jetways (or does not have jetways for all aircraft, and passengers descended dry stairs and crossed a dry tarmac to reach buses that took us to the terminal. Soon affter we boarded buses that would take us to our hotels, it started drizzling.

Then, it started raining harder -- and then harder still. The bus driver kept off the elevated highway and took lower roads -- I would call them service roads. Before long, each road resembled a river. Passing vehicles generated waves of water that washed over curbs. Cars and trucks stalled in water-filled intersections. People huddled under bus shelters and in doorways. I wondered whether Guadalajara had a single functioning storm sewer.

I managed to get only a couple of vaguely decent images through the bus window and the downpour.

Astonishingly, the roads were dry the next morning. I don't know where all that water went, but I'm glad that it did.

Weirdest Air Travel Instructions Yet

2009-10-08T06:20:00.003-06:00

"Present your picture ID and boarding pass."

"Place all liquids in a one-quart clear plastic zipbag."

"Remove your laptop from your carryon."

"Empty your pockets."

"Remove your shoes."

"Board only when your row is called."

"Do not leave your luggage unattended."

"Report any suspicious behavior to an airline employee or TSA representative."

"Fasten your seatbelt."

"Stow your carryons completely under the seat in front of you. or in the overhead compartment."

Now comes a new request of air travelers: "Use the restroom before boarding the aircraft." Huh? Is this like your mother telling you to "go potty" before getting into the car?

Actually, according to a CNN report, it is All Nippon's request that is part of its environmental stewardship policies. "We are making these items lighter -- and making the passengers lighter, a little bit," All Nippon's Megumi Tezuka said. The airline estimates that if 50 percent of passengers relieved themselves before boarding, it would reduce carbon dioxide by 4.2 tons a month. Flights will also show educational films on the environment, according to CNN.

What's next?

2009-10 Ski Season About to Start

2009-10-06T19:10:00.015-06:00

Single-digit October opening dates signal beginning of lo-o-o-o-o-ong season

Colorado's Loveland (top right) is starting lift operations on Wednesday, October 7, and Arapahoe Basin (bottom right), just on the other side of Loveland Pass, gets going on Friday, October 9. Loveland's first trails to open will be Catwalk, Mambo, and Homerun served by the triple chair from the Loveland Basin base for a 1,000-vertical-foot top-to-bottom run for the earliest season start in 40 years. A-Basin will open the Exhibition chairlift to the public at 9:00 a.m. on Friday. October 9 is the earliest date in its history. Skiers and riders will start with 18-inch base on the intermediate High Noon run and six features in the High Divide Terrain Park. After a day's eager edges, who knows how the snow will hold up? Loveland stays open through the second weekend in May, while A-Basin keeps going as long as there is snow on the ground and butts on lifts. June is not uncommon; July is not unheard of.

If you're itching to start making turns (and unless you have your own rock skis), this might be the time to rent boards for the day. Breeze Ski Rentals' Dumont location is offering daily ski and snowboard rentals for only $5 a day for kids' or adults' Basic Sport packages from Wednesday, October 7 through Sunday, October 11. There won't be any black-diamond terrain open, so basic will probably be just fine. The rental shop is open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Reserve online or call 303-567-2087.

On the outskirts of Sin City, Las Vegas Ski & Snowboard Resort, which claims a location just 45 minutes from the Strip, opens limited terrain at 12:00 noon on October 7 -- seven weeks ahead of schedule. You might say that this a lucky seven sign for Western skiing this winter.

And in California, Boreal Mountain Resort (originally called Boreal Ridge) has announced an October 10 opening date, also the earliest in its history. It plans to operate just on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays during this super-early season. Back East, fall foliage is at its peak, with some resorts operating their lifts for leaf peepers rather than snowriders.