Andre Mika's Fork New York

NYC's Best Cup Of Coffee? Stumptown.

2009-10-18T09:14:00.006-04:00

And lucky for me... it's just around the corner.

The Chelsea neighborhood of NYC is known for it's interesting cafés and often exploratory restaurant "experiments".... but the coffee has never been in question. While many people know about "Café Grumpy".... the fantastic coffee hang on 20th Street, the midtown faithful are now discovering what may likely be the best cup of coffee in New York... Stumptown Roasters.

First you should know, this isn't your normal shop. The folks at Stumptown (a business born and loved in Portland, Oregon) take coffee seriously. So seriously, they travel the world searching for the beans that will make the difference in your cup... and they do so with a fair trade mentality that most companies could only dream of. I'm not talking about big "corporate" trips with high level executives that book rooms at the Hilton. I'm talking about people who cap out under trees in the Kenyan bush. Those guys.

Now if fair trade and sustainability is your thing, I suggest you spend some time on the Stumptown website and learn about their endeavors... you'll be impressed. It's hard not to become a fan of their mission.

As great and important as this work is... it would likely be overlooked if it all resulted in a cup of nasty coffee. But this isn't the case.

The store itself is nestled in the front of the newish and hip "Ace Hotel" in Chelsea. The Ace Hotel is a funky, NYC boutique hotel that delivers all of the style and substance you'd expect to find in Midtown Manhattan. Crazy cool art, a refined and uber cool lobby (this is where you enjoy your coffee... as the shop itself has no seating).... and a gaggle of hipsters who have planted their stake there to profess their love for what makes NYC great.

The coffee you ask?

The experts at Stumptown don't use a brewer like our friends at Starbucks to make a cup of coffee. All "drip" style coffee is made in large french press pots, and then quickly transferred into vacuum pumps to keep the coffee hot and fresh. Spectacular. The espresso is ground fresh and made in a traditional pump machine... and cranks out quality draws. This is good stuff.

By the way... if you haven't had a cup of french press in a while... make owe it to yourself to make a cup. Having been addicted to french press coffee on and off for the last 20 years, I'm still convinced that this is truly the only way to really experience the subtly of a perfectly roasted bean. But beware, once you get hooked you'll have a hard time getting off of it. It's the crack of the coffee world. More about making french press at home below (thanks Stumptown).

The store sells a variety of it's coffees, with description cards to tell you about the origin and complexity of the roast. The people who work behind the counter know a lot about each varietal, so don't be afraid to ask.

Welcome to the neighborhood, Stumptown. It's always great when the product exceeds the hype.

Here's to one terrific cup of coffee.

STUMPTOWN IS CASH ONLY.

Address: 18 W 29th St.
New York, NY 10001

Hours: 6 am to 8 pm daily

How to prepare the perfect press pot at home

Using a press pot (aka French Press) is the easiest and best way to get truly excellent coffee at home. The keys to getting good results are: using high quality, fresh beans; grinding the coffee correctly; using clean equipment; timing the process.

You’ll need a Press Pot, coffee, a grinder, a spoon, a timer, and cups (and thermal carafe if preparing more than fits in the cups).

Step 1

Grind coffee

It is important that the coffee be ground coarse and that it be ground with a quality burr (rather than blade) grinder. By grinding the coffee coarse, you’re allowing for a slower and more even extraction which results in a fuller bodied and more nuanced cup. Blade grinders chop the coffee rather than grinding it, resulting in uneven particle size and unpredictable particle size. This results in uneven extraction, which causes coffee that has increased bitterness and which is not true to the true flavour profile of the coffee. In addition, the lack of consistency in particle size results in inconsistent and unpredictable results from pot to pot.

Step 2

Add coffee to pot

You’ll need one tablespoon of coffee for every 4oz of water. In other words, if you have a 16oz press pot, you’ll want to use 4 tablespoons of coffee. Feel free to adjust this amount based on your own personal tastes. Make sure the pot is clean and dry.

Step 3

Add water

You should bring the water just to a boil (electric kettles are great at this) and then let it cool for about 45 seconds. Then pour it aggressively into the pot so that it saturates the grounds. The key is to saturate all the grounds evenly. You should move the stream around as you pour to facilitate this. Do not fill the pot entirely. With many fresh coffees you will see significant expansion of the coffee in a sort of “foam” at the top of the liquid once you add water. This is known as “bloom” and is the result of the off-gassing of CO2 from the coffee. Adding too much water can result in a very messy countertop.

Step 4

Start timer

You’re going to want to have a timer that counts down from 4 minutes and has an alarm at 4 minutes. It’s very important that you use a timer to guarantee high quality coffee.

Step 5

Stir pot

After 1 minute, you should stir the grounds in the pot. If you need to add water to top off the pot, make sure it is again right below boiling. Stirring the pot guarantees even and optimal extraction of all the coffee. In addition, it breaks down the “bloom” and allows you to combine the correct amount of water and coffee without spilling all over the place.

Step 6

Put press/top on pot

Make sure you line up the spout and the corresponding exit in the lid.

Step 7

Press the pot

At exactly 4 minutes, you should push the press (slowly) into the pot to force all grounds to the bottom. You might have to press and then release and repeat to do this. Do not crush it with all your might – use some finesse.

Step 8

Pour the coffee

You need to do this as soon as you’ve pressed the pot. If you’re making more coffee than you can fit into a cup and want to hold some for later, pour the coffee into a thermal carafe. Do not simply leave the coffee in the press pot – it will get nasty quickly. If you want to avoid any stray grounds and sediment, you can pour the coffee through a mesh basket filter.

Little Did I Know… The Bitches of Manganaro’s

2009-08-08T16:00:00.004-04:00

Evil Is Lurking On 9th Avenue... So Watch Your Step.

It’s a beautiful Saturday August afternoon in Manhattan. Not just beautiful… spectacular. 75 degree temps, clear skies… the smell of food shops in the air. I love this place.

Even though I had already smoked a 7 pound chicken this morning, I yearned to escape from my midtown digs at 28th and 6th and venture out to find some, well…. meat. Sausages, flank steak… anything fresh will do. Great butchers abound in this city. This will be fun.

Since my second home “Faicco’s” in the West Village is closed today (family on vacation one week a year) I decided to venture west…. to a place I had heard much about… Esposito’s Pork Store, a fixture on 9th avenue forever. It was time to pay them a visit.

Let me tell you now that this post isn’t about the nice people and good sausage at Esposito’s.

When I arrived by cab, I hopped out and took a look at the block… and realized I could use a sandwich. It was 2:30pm and the stomach was growling. I had some time to kill. I needed something, since I didn’t have a chance to get my bagel on this morning. Maybe I would get lucky?

I walked down the block about 50 feet and encountered a gigantic sign that read “Mangenero’s”. The spiffy looking restaurant had a menu out front with all of the Italian hero sandwiches listed…. Chicken parm, salami, ham, etc…. you get the picture. There was a nice crowd there for mid-afternoon, and I figured it would be hard to go wrong there.

About 10 feet past this store was “Manganaro Grosseria Italiano”…. an old school grocery and deli, that had charm and history… literally since the 1800’s. I had hit the jackpot. This is where I would lunch. It looked very familiar, but I had never been there. This is exciting.

I quickly entered into an empty space… long and narrow, and noticed 2 woman and an elderly customer in the back. Taken by the nostalgia and feel of the place, I quickly pulled out my camera and snapped a picture of the front counter… a shot that looked as if it had been dressed by a Hollywood set designer. Green shelves, pieces of meat, boxes of pasta. I am in heaven.

Then it happened.

“Don’t do it”, screamed a woman from the rear of the store.

I wasn’t sure if in fact she was yelling at me, as I was hidden partially by a cabinet in the storefront. But then it happened again.

“I’m telling you don’t even think about it”, she shouted.

In about 4 seconds, the two irate Italian woman had bolted to the front of the store as if they were training to run the 50 yard dash for Italy in the next Olympics.

“I’m sorry”, I said. “I didn’t know you had a no photo policy.”

“Photos are for customers,” she snapped. “And I don’t see any food in your mouth”.

I then tried to explain to her that as I was making my way to the back of the store, I had stopped to take a photo.

“Yea, yea… you just stick with that story….. I know your kind”, she remarked.

“My kind?... because I write a food blog and I love to talk about great places to eat?”, I said.

“I knew it… your one of those bloggatweets people…. whatever you are. You don’t care about people or food… you just steal everything”.

Well folks, at this point it is clear to me that these two crazy Italian woman are clearly out of their minds. Here I am with an appetite, my wallet, an appreciation for their store… and I am being verbally abused by both of these insane, abusive, horrible human beings. I just want a freaking sandwich. What the hell is going on.

“I was just in the neighborhood to buy some meat on the corner and thought I would walk down….”, I said.

And then, it hit me. I had seen this store before. Bourdain. No Reservations. Of course. The place next door. The sandwich feud. This was all making sense. These two delis have been feuding for decades, and of course these idiots think I give a shit.

“I tell you what, come take a look while I delete this photo from my phone, and I’ll be on my way”, I said.

“You can shove that phone up your ass for all I care. Where are your manners? What do you care about us? All you people do is take, take… where is hello? Please?”, she said.

Please keep in mind, all I did was come in for a sandwich, and I snapped a pic on my iPhone. At this point, I am trying not to go postal on these two idiots.

About this time another guy entered the store, and began to look around. It was obvious he had never been there before. He was wearing a “I Love Shea” t-shirt.

“What do you want Shea???”, she yelled at him.

“Uh, I am just looking…”, he remarked.

“Right, Another one. There’s the door”, she said.

From the street his friend exclaimed, “I told you not to go in the store… they are crazy bitches who would spit on you…. They are the laughing stock of the neighborhood.”

About this time, I can’t help myself. I simply burst into laughter. I have to be on some type of Candid Camera show.

But I wasn’t.

“Have a good day, ladies. I’ll find lunch elsewhere”, I remarked.

“You do that, liar. I know your kind…. we don’t want you here”, she yelled.

And with that, I exited the building.

So I guess the moral of the story is, unless you love being abused and crapped on by people who you are trying to give your money to, stay away from Manganaro Grosseria Italiano.

Judging by the large, happy crowd next door, I would recommend the Manganaro HeroBoy place I passed on. Next time, I’ll follow the crowd, delicious smells and common sense….. and not my nostalgic instincts.

After all, I just came in for a sandwich.

BAGEL WATCH: Pick-A-Bagel Rocks

2009-05-16T18:07:00.004-04:00

As Bagels Go, This Neighborhood Gem Continues To Shine

I was recently privy to an argument about a bagel chain that was planning on moving into Manhattan to set up shop.

On one side, several people who had enjoyed the bagels abroad (like, uh, in Ohio somewhere) were glad to know they would have a familiar bagel in the city. Please note: I love when those who are not exactly connected to the NYC food scene try and convince NYC foodies that their local chain food can take over Manhattan (Chick-Fil-A not included, of course).

On the other side of the fence, were the New Yorkers who were basically begging them not to come... as a courtesy.

Think about it. Moving to New York to open a bagel shop that is part of a "chain" is like moving to Mexico City and opening a Taco Bell.

Case in point, my bagel shop of the day, Pick-A-Bagel, on 3rd and 23rd. A local gem that cranks out one of the Top 5 bagels in New York City, bar none. (Insert your Top 5 list here).

Now you should know, I love my bagels. I am not the biggest H and H guy in the world, having tasted the incredible bagels served by Tal Bagel (have you had the flat bagels?)... but I love the fact that so many shops in NYC actually make their bagels in house. This is the case at Pick-A-Bagel.

Additionally, these guys can really dress the thing. I'll leave the lox and stuff to my Hebrew brethren... (I just don't have the smoked fish for breakfast thing happening mentally yet) and focus on cream cheese, as well as my fave, the bacon/egg and butter.

If you have spent the last minute reading this, you are one of those people who know that all bagels are not created equal. There are bland bagels, stale bagels, tough bagels... blah, blah, blah.

And then, there are good NYC bagels. Warm or hot.... crusty and crunchy on the outside and chewy perfect on the inside.

This would again, be Pick-A-Bagel.

What sets them apart?

They have a killer assortment of cream cheeses, etc... but who else on the planet sells BACON CREAM CHEESE?

Not kidding. Bacon. Cream. Cheese. And if you can't stomach that, they also have TOFU Cream Cheese. I can't make this up.

So there you have it, Fork New York's Bagel Pick of the Day, Pick-A-Bagel.

(and if you don't like bagels, you can get loaded at the pub next door)

297 3rd Ave
(between 22nd St & 23rd St)
New York, NY 10010
(212) 686-1414

Traveling New York City

2009-05-09T15:07:00.004-04:00

Why Hit Europe When You Can Hop In A Cab?

Those of us lucky enough to live in New York know one thing. No matter where you are from, where you have been, or where you want to go, you can almost certainly duplicate any international experience on the island of Manhattan.

On this day in New York, I awoke to find an cool, overcast morning... begging for a day trip somewhere. I usually make an obligatory journey to the West Village (Faicco's, Murrays, etc...) to load up on crunchy aged gouda and parsley and cheese sausage for the grill.... but on this day, I ventured into SoHo where some of the cities best boutique food shops live.

While at this point I could post a list of places to visit that would resemble the yellow pages, I have decided to spend the summer focusing the blog on the secret gems that make New York the greatest food city in the world.

Stop #1?........ one of my favorite bakeries... Once Upon A Tart.

Once Upon A Tart is located on Sullivan Street, just south of Houston, and is spectacular.

Not only do they bake their amazing tarts, muffins and breads on premise... they do it in such simple style, you would easily think you were shopping in the Marais District in Paris. Unlike many bakeries who flood their counters with 100 varieties of good things, Once Upon A Tart uses the less is more approach of "we'll sell you 20 things, and everything you put in your mouth will be extrodinary."

And thats what they do.

On this morning, I choose not to buy a perfect pork, pesto and friseé baguette, homemade madeline or raspberry scone... but a toasty bruschetta layered brushed with fresh tomato compote, thinly sliced rosemary potatoes and roma tomotoes, topped with fresh mozerella.

With a freshly drawn double espresso in hand, I sat in one of the tiny bistro chairs out front and patiently waited for my wife to exit the upscale yarn shop next door. And I waited. And I waited.

Then I couldn't wait anymore... and began to devour what was easily one of the best savory treats I had eaten in recent memory. God I love New York.

The beauty of SoHo and the Village in general is that these shops are more the norm than you would think... and these type of culinary masterpieces can be found in about a 5 minute walk in any direction. But if you are looking for that sweet and savory fix, this is your place.

So there you have it, my first installment of FORK NEW YORK'S Summer in the City Series.... Once Upon A Tart.

I'll see you there.

Once Upon A Tart
135 Sullivan Street
NYC, NY 10012

Open everyday until 7pm, Sunday until 6pm.

Heat Up The Grill

2009-04-25T06:48:00.002-04:00

It's Time To Cook With Some Flavor!

Summer is here in NYC.

At least it feels like it. And even though I have been snow-grilling all winter, I am breaking out my favorite recipes and beginning to incorporate my grill into my everyday kitchen recipes.

I know what you are saying…. why is a restaurant blog telling me to stay home and cook?

Well, truth be told, sometimes you just can’t get certain dishes in the city. Sure, there are several joints that do “shrimp and grits”…. but not like this. For this recipe to work, you need to enhance the savory nature of the grits (hence the cream) and create a layer of flavor with the bacon fat. The entire thing is very easy.

I’ll resume my restaurant reviews next week, but in the meantime, enjoy this recipe… one of my favorite Sunday morning brunch treats.

Grilled Shrimp and Charleston Style Cheese Grits

1 cup old fashion grits
Salt and pepper
1/2 cup butter
1 cup half and half
1 cup heavy cream
2 cups shredded sharp Cheddar cheese
1 pound extra large shrimp, peeled and deveined
6 slices bacon, chopped into pieces
4 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 cup thinly sliced green onions, white and green parts
1 large clove garlic, minced

FIRST
In a medium saucepan, bring 2 cups water to a boil. Add the grits and salt and pepper to taste. Stir well with a whisk and thicken. Slowly add half and half, and then heavy cream, stirring all the while. Reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting and cook the grits until all the liquid is absorbed, about 10 to 15 minutes. Stir occasionally. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter and cheese. Keep covered until ready to serve.

THEN
Rinse the shrimp and pat dry. Coat shrimp with olive oil, season with creole seasoning (or at least salt and pepper), and place on medium hot grill until just pink. Remove and bring inside. Fry the bacon in a large skillet until browned and crisp, then drain on a paper towel. Add the shrimp to the bacon grease in the skillet and sauté over medium heat just until they heat through, about 2 minutes. Do not overcook! Immediately add the lemon juice, parsley, green onions, and garlic. Remove the skillet from the heat.

AND FINALLY
Pour the grits into a serving bowl or serving platter. Pour the shrimp mixture over the grits. Garnish with the bacon bits.

BLT Market: New York's Best Brunch?

2009-03-07T22:22:00.005-05:00

Bring Your Appetite and Your Visa Card, You'll Need Them Both

The reasons I love BLT Market may be the reasons some hate it.

It’s a tad snobby, a bit touristy, a smidge stuffy and certainly expensive. But if it’s a terrific brunch you’re looking for, you’d be hard pressed to find a better morning than the one that can be had on the edge of Central Park at the Ritz Carlton New York.

My brunch visit to BLT Market was really by mistake, as I was under the silly impression that the restaurant would also offer its standard menu on a Sunday. Not the case. On Sunday, these seats come at a premium, and you’re gonna shell out some decent coin to hang with the big boys. The good news is that you’ll walk away happy having spent your monthly Starbucks budget on what is simply delicious food.

How much are we talking? The brunch at BLT Market will run you anywhere from $38 on up, depending on what you have in mind. The basic omelets, benedicts, etc…. all start here, and our friends at the Ritz add a surcharge for upgrades if you wish to step up to the hanger steak and fancy salads…. which is what we did. Gazing at what our neighbors were ordering, we couldn’t help ourselves. We did the salad thing… but more on that in a minute.

First, the baker. If in fact you choose to order the bread basket, you better be hungry. The problem here is that everything tastes so good, you won’t be nibbling, you’ll be inhaling. This is what happens when expert bakers send warm baskets of croissant, madeleines, danish, muffins, scones, baguettes and pound cake to the table. It is a beautiful pile of goodies and worthy of the trip alone.

Toss in almond brioche french toast, perfect fritattas, buttermilk pancakes, smoked salmon, a decadent croque monsieur and a hamburger the size of a Volvo, and you’ve now got a delimma of just what in the hell to order. The good news is there really is no bad choice.

Back to the salads. My companion ordered a lobster salad, piled about a foot high with freshly poached lobster, watercress, tomato, avaoado, etc… in a homemade buttermilk dressing. She didn’t speak much, as time gabbing would interrupt the assault on the dish. I understood. She was happy happy.

My salad was a crisp, fresh ceasar salad of romaine hearts on top of what was easily the largest piece of chicken I’ve ever seen on a plate. The chicken paillard was pounded delightfully thin, and covered not a plate, but a platter. The warm, lemony chicken proved to be the perfect partner to the salad, and sure enough the dish was just terrific. Everything about it was fresh and homemade… there was care going into the preparation of these dishes and it showed.

Don’t think food is the only thing at BLT that is dressed to impress. The meyer-lemon ginger mimosa was light and refreshing, as well as the pomegranate salsa bloody mary. Sure, these will set you back another $15 bones or so, but hey, you just spent $48 on a salad. Let it go.

I guess by now you can tell I like the food here…. and who wouldn’t. It is everything you look for in the perfect brunch and more. It just costs a small fortune.

So with this knowledge in hand, I approach BLT Market as such.

This can’t be my regular brunch spot… just as I can’t smoke Cuban cigars everyday. But when I am looking for something special… a treat…. this is the place.

If you are going to shell out serious dollars for a serious meal, you expect it to be good… and BLT Market is just plain good. So with any meal or service, you feel good in the afterglow when you believe you got what you paid for.

Let’s tally it up, shall we?

The room: Nebraska farm house meets Martha Stewart with a bucket of yellow paint. Charming and odd, in a good way. Kudos.

The service: Steady and polite, if not a hair slow at times… but professional. Reminded me of just about any Parisian joint on a Sunday morning.

The setting: At the foot of 6th Ave at Central Park couldn’t be better for a post-brunch stroll or carriage ride. Or, hang a right and walk to the Apple Store.

The food: Flawless. This is the level of fare you’d expect from a BLT property, and especially one in the Ritz. I’ll be back.

BLT Market
* American
* 1430 6th Ave, New York 10019
(At Central Park S)
* Phone: (212) 521-6125

Bourbon Street Bar and Grille: A True Louisiana Disaster

2009-02-28T12:07:00.003-05:00

AN OPEN INVITATION TO THE OWNERS OF BOURBON STREET

It wasn’t long ago when I sat in my living room on a Sunday morning and exclaimed to my wife… “there is a Louisiana place opening up, and I think this one has a chance to be good.... the chef looks like he is from New Orleans!”

My wife responded, “Please don’t do this…. you know how this turns out. How many times have we been down this road?”

She was right. I had just read that Bourbon Street Bar and Grille (bad name) was opening on restaurant row, and that a chef from New Orleans was in the kitchen. But instead of racing down, I used amazing restraint… I waited for them to get their act together. And waited. And waited.

Until last week. Mardi Gras. I just couldn’t take it anymore. I needed to smell the smells, hear the music, drink the drinks. It was time to head to W. 46th Street and have my first experience at Bourbon Street. Their online ad said “Mardi Gras Celebration… Boiled Crawfish, Jambalaya, Music, etc….”

So I hopped in a cab and away I went, LSU attire and all. It was late afternoon.

Walking into this place, you think, “holy crap, look at this space.” I mean, it is massive… decorated with black iron and dark wood, a massive bar and great furnishings. Someone spent some serious coin on this buildout, which I was hoping meant that the same attention had been taken to the back of the house.

We sat down, and then…. it all went bad.

The music, well, no Neville Brothers. It was the Jonas Brothers.

I ordered a hurricane, which tasted like a batch of bad kool-aid with a shot of rum.

And I ordered the “crayfish”, which came to the table (7 of them, baby sized) swimming in a pool of nasty juice, with pieces of sausage, bay shrimp and corn on the cob that had been chopped into bite sized chunks.

My heart sank and my poor wife stared at me, her eyes welling with true compassion and the words “I told you so” tightly trapped behind her lips.

“Let me know how you like these,” said the server, who had problems pronouncing just about anything remotely Cajun on the menu. “We have a new chef who has never really cooked these, so he is interested to hear what you think.”

Having tasted one taste of these putrid, overcooked, nasty smelling crawfish, I told her politely, “if he’d like to know how to cook these, or anything else on this menu, have him grab a coke and some over to the table. I’d be happy to fill him in on how these are supposed to taste, as well as all of these other dishes.”

And it wasn’t just the crawfish. The menu had some bizarre items as well… and then, basically, just gave up. It was an array of dishes I would never see in Louisiana… or anywhere. When I asked for a shrimp poboy (listed on their website) I was informed they didn't make them anymore.

"I guess they were not very popular," she said. "Wow," I said.

So much for the New Orleans chef. I learned from our clueless server that he had left the restaurant, and was no longer affiliated with Bourbon Street, nor were his recipes. It was making perfect sense, as I could have had a more authentic experience eating the Cajun feast at TGIFridays.

But sitting in this fantastic space, I couldn’t help but think to myself…. what if this place really had great food. Forget the gimmicks and garbage on your menu… it is obvious that the bar business is your bread and butter. What if you had a menu like George’s in Baton Rouge…. amazing poboys, gumbos, red beans…. just solid staples. Or Mother’s in New Orleans. Killer sandwiches, simple blue plate specials. Make it authentic. God forbid you actually have a menu that could be compared to the legendary Uglesich's, that closed a few years ago, after nearly 80 years in the business.

I also wondered if the management knew that a menu like that would greatly reduce their labor cost and also give them a greater margin with their food cost. And oh yea, would give them great food.

I know, because I ran a restaurant with the exact same menu as a Mother's, and operated at a food cost of nearly 23%. And, we often had an hour wait to get a table.

So, friends at Bourbon Street…. before you are death-watched, before you begin stiffing your vendors, before you start looking for more money…. I am offering you this…. an OPEN INVITATION to let me help you fix your mess.

I will gladly come in, look at your kitchen, access your current menu (this I have already done, and it is a mess), and give you a tight, delicious, authentic menu that will resonate with any person who has ever traveled to Louisiana.

Having owned 2 restaurants and consulting on several others, this is an offer you should really consider before dismissing. I don’t want anything in return. I’m just sick and tired of watching people throw away this kind of investment because they didn’t know what the hell they were doing in the kitchen. So suck it up, realize your problem, and get some help. And it doesn’t have to be me…. just get someone who has operated a Louisiana kitchen… and rethink what your menu “has” to be. You’d be surprised at how simple a menu can be when authenticity is at the core of every bite. Keep it simple.

What will happen?

The word of mouth on the street will be that Bourbon Street has fantastic food. That the poboys taste like those at Domilise’s… or George’s…. or Maspero.

This isn’t hard food to prepare or serve to the masses. But if you want to really live up to your name…. you’ve got to quit pretending you know what you are doing and ask for some help.

So, another Mardi Gras passes, and I am left in the streets of Chelsea missing my Louisiana once again. I quietly wander into the kitchen, put on a pot of rice and contemplate what’s for dinner. Maybe some of this shrimp and okra gumbo in my freezer? Maybe some shrimp etouffee? Perhaps some grits and ham?

Whatever the choice, I am comfortable in the fact that in New York City…. the best creole or Cajun food to be found, is in my own kitchen. I just wish I had some competition.

Center Cut: An Explosion of Average

2009-02-21T10:00:00.004-05:00

Expecting More, A Night That Resulted in Blah

Unlike other bloggers and food reviewers, I’ve never been a Jeffrey Chodorow hater. Sure, our favorite convicted felon has had a few bombs, but he has also had a few spots that remain popular in the city which in this day and age is an accomplishment. Not that I am a huge China Grill fan (my last visit uncovered one of the worst meals I have had since I moved to NYC), but I do adore the plantain fried rice at Asia de Cuba and have had many a fun night dancing away at Rum Jungle in Las Vegas.

So when I venture into a Chodorow spot these days, I enter with an open mind and neutral palate. My last experience at a China Grill Management store was the newish “Center Cut” at the Empire Hotel…. on Valentines Day.

Having owned 2 restaurants, I am big on details. Let’s start with a greeting and the girl at the door.

The week prior to my reservation, which was early (before 7), I was called not once, but twice to confirm I was coming, and that I WOULD BE ON TIME. Both times, I said “of course”, and sure enough, that evening, I arrived 5 minutes early for the rezo.

RULE # 1 : IF YOU HAVE THE BALLS TO CALL A PATRON TWICE TO MAKE SURE THEY ARRIVE ON TIME, DON’T MAKE THEM WAIT 30 MINUTES FOR A TABLE ON VALENTINES DAY WHILE THEY SIT IN THE BAR AND WATCH EVERYONE ELSE EAT THEIR DINNER.

Once we did get a table, we encountered a friendly waitperson who was there physically, but not mentally. It was clear that she would rather be on a date herself on Valentine’s Day… so we got a strange vibe from her all evening. This was clearly a person who would rather be someplace else.

Regarding the food, I found all of our dishes average and sometimes a smidge better than average. The problem is, nothing was wow.

The problem with that, is NYC is wow. Restaurants with longevity in the city are wow. Wait staffs are wow. The food is wow. The night is wow.

Great food, staff and ambiance can often makeup for miscues at the door and long waits… but on this night, it was apparent that retribution on this level would not be mine.

I won’t describe each and every bite of the evening, but I will walk you through the following:

The Bread: Fresh Popovers… well prepared and quite good.

Salads: Heirloom Salad and Lobster Stuffed Mushroom Caps…. Salad was very average with somewhat mealy tomatoes and the mushroom caps were overpriced and average at best.

Side Dishes: The Creamed Spinach & Artichoke Pie is a gimmick…. and dominates the table. The Corn and Manchego gratin was well prepared and a solid dish.

Steaks: The Steak Oscar was average and included crabmeat that had a strong scent of the ocean…. This wasn’t fresh jumbo lump. Perhaps my days growing up in South Louisiana and dinners at Commander's Palace have jaded my view of all crabmeat? My companion had a steak from the ala carte menu that was prepared to her liking, but again, didn’t set the world on fire. I would say this flavor and grade of beef would rank a notch below craftsteak or Quality Meats.

Dessert: the menu looked decent (a lot of tableside flambé) but by this time, we wanted to bolt. It was an espresso and see ya later.

THE FINAL WORD: I love the Empire Hotel, the vibe, the rooftop bar, the locale. The addition of Center Cut is just bizarre. You can’t open a blah spot and think it can keep up with the hip vibe of the space that surrounds it. And oh yea, NYC doesn’t need more steakhouses. This could have been a real showcase spot for nearly any other type of store with a great menu…. So while I’m not putting it on Deathwatch, I would be shocked to see the store gain a loyal clientele when I can’t be seated within 30 minutes of a reservation I booked a month in advance. Additionally, as much as I like long meals, this night bordered on a hijacking. It was nearly 2.5 hours before the steak arrived, and so drawn out that I couldn’t wait to leave.

I'm still not a Chodorow hater.... I'd just like to go to dinner in New York at one of his restaurants and walk away saying.... wow.

It's Time For King Cake

2009-02-04T06:47:00.002-05:00

For Me, February Means Mardi Gras, Shrimp PoBoys and King Cake

Growing up in South Louisiana, I never knew how good I had it.

I mean I was already surrounded by great food and amazing culture, but Mardi Gras? Well, imagine an entire holiday centered around a dozen parties, 14 parades, 300 pounds of beads and all the food you can eat... and throw in a holiday from school (yes, Fat Tuesday is an official State holiday) and you have the world's greatest celebration.

And then there is the King Cakes.

King Cake and Mardi Gras go together like Red Beans and Rice. You simply can't get away from them during the Lenten season, and ever since I left my dear Louisiana, I've shipped them up to avoid withdrawals.

My very favorite King Cakes come from New Orleans... and an amazing bakery in Baton Rouge named Ambrosia. This bakery is arguably the best in Baton Rouge, and their King Cakes are out of this world.... and available for you to ship overnight.

What to Order?

I would highly recommend you order not one, but two. First, the fruit filled King Cake, with either Raspberry and Cream Cheese or Strawberry.... and last, the Pecan Praline which is sinful. Both come freshly shipped overnight and my guests devoured both last weekend, so I can attest – these are crowd pleasers.

To order your very own slice of heaven, click here. To learn even more about why we eat King Cakes, click here.

Happy Mardi Gras everyone...

Today We Celebrate.... POPCORN!!

2009-01-20T07:37:00.003-05:00

I Admit It, I Am An Addict

Today is National Popcorn Day, according to the Popcorn Board, which is good enough for me. They have a bunch of popcorn recipes here, along with history and FAQ's about the stuff. We can't live without popcorn. It's essential for the movies, of course. But it's also helpful when you're trying to lose weight (have you not tried the popcorn diet?). The Boy Scouts sell popcorn to raise money every year; their microwave popcorn is the best I ever had. Lest you pooh-pooh that, know that popcorn was the first food tested in a microwave oven. At Rio Mar in New Orleans, Chef Adolfo Garcia serves popcorn with the Panamanian isotope of his ceviche selection. He says that's traditional in Panama. Hell, I own a commercial popcorn machine and keep it in my apartment here in New York.

Popcorn has become such a popular snack in so many forms that a great deal of study has been applied to it. The most fascinating to me was explained by Orville Redenbacher, when he appeared on a radio show a long time ago. He said some kernels pop into something like mushrooms (rounded pieces) and others into what the industry calls butterflies, with "wings" curling away from the center. Orville, who did a lot of popcorn research, said that the mushrooms look better but the butterflies taste better.

Regardless, today we celebrate. I just love the stuff.

Delicious-Sounding Places
Popcorn, Indiana is in the southern part of Indiana, just north of the Grits Line. (That means the standard combination breakfast found in roadside cafes will include not grits, but hash browns.) It's also seventy-four miles southwest of Indianapolis. It's well out in the middle of farmland, which does indeed grow its namesake variety of maize. In fact, a company there has built a brand out of the town's name, and has a website telling about their corn and the history of the town. It is, of course, www.popcornindiana.com. If popcorn doesn't satisfy your appetite, it's about a four-mile drive up Popcorn Church Road to Arthur's Corner Cafe in Springville.

Edible Dictionary
popcorn, n.--A variety of corn (maize) whose kernels have a center of soft, moist starch surrounded by hard starch. When the corn is heated, the moisture in the center heats beyond the boiling point of water, When it finally boils, it does so suddenly and completely, its gases expanding with such force (almost ten times normal atmospheric pressure) that it puffs up the hard starch and makes it blow out of the hull. The main tricks behind excellent popcorn for the growers is to let it dry until the hulls are hard, and growing the right variety of corn. Popcorn has been known for thousands of years, and was very familiar to Native Americans. It seems always to have been a source of delight and festivity.

Today's Cooking Tip: Don't let anybody tell you that better popcorn can be made in a pan than in a microwave oven. It was once true, but is no longer. Unless you have an industrial-strength popper.

Andre On The Go: LA Pt. 2

2009-01-11T13:15:00.000-05:00

Where: Izaka- Ya by Katsu-Ya on 3rd Street

What: Spicy Tuna on Crispy Rice

Rating: 9.5 This is the stuff. The original roll that started it
all.... Simply amazing. Also available at Koi in NYC.

Andre On The Road : LA

2009-01-10T13:14:00.001-05:00

What: Buttery Belgian Waffle with Roasted Pecans

Where: The French Crepe Co. at The Farmers Market

Rating: 8.5 - truly relish. Every trip to LA must include a stop at
the market for breakfast!

Announcing: THE 2008 FORKIE AWARDS

2008-12-23T08:51:00.010-05:00

You’ve waited all year, and here they are… in all of their glory!

What the hell are the Forkies?

Well, the Forkies are the awards delved out by myself, sole owner and proprietor of Fork New York. I spend all year roving the city looking for good eats, and well... this is where I can share with you what I think is the best of the best. Lets get started.

To view the 2006 Forkies (there was no 2007).... click here!

To view the 2008 Top 10 Dishes Not To Miss.... click here!

To view the 2008 Top 10 Dishes Under $10... click here!

Best Steakhouse in New York City

This is a debate that will never see a clear cut winner… but for my money in this year, the winner is CRAFTSTEAK. With perfect bone marrow, a killer wine list (many by the glass), both corn and grass fed beef and the most incredible mushrooms in Manhattan, this place is simply pushing all of my buttons.

Runner(s) Up: Keen’s, Quality Meats

Best Chinese Food In Manhattan:

Easy. Szechuan Gourmet on West 39th is making some of the best Chinese food, well, anywhere. Yes, it is somewhat of a hole in the wall… but when you walk in for pork dumplings in chili oil and see Matthew and Sara Jessica noshing in the corner, the place must be doing something right.

Runner Up: Wu Liang Ye (midtown location)

Best Street Food:

Tough one. Of course the famous Chicken and Rice Cart at 53rd and 6th holds a special place in my heart… but the truth is the Biryani Cart on 46th and 6th has claimed my #1 spot this year, simply for their perfect, buttery King Koti rolls.

Runner Up: Moishe’s Falafel (east side of 46th and 6th)

Best Morsel To Put In Your Mouth:

Easy. Ever had a rice ball from Faicco’s Pork Store in the West Village? If not, quit reading this blog, hop in a cab and get there. These gems are fantastic right of the deli shelf in this Italian butcher shop… but even better is getting them home into a warm oven and serving them with a little homemade marinara on the side.

Runner Up: Hen of the Woods Mushrooms at Craftsteak

Best Pizza – Non-Traditional:

And the winner is….. Two Boots. I was sad to see the Rockefeller Plaza store close, but thrilled when I moved to Chelsea and realized they now delivered to my door. The toppings are amazing, but even better is the crunchy, sandy, cornmeal crust.

Best Pizza – Traditional:

Yes they are a dime a dozen, but my money is on the Grandma’s slice at Rosa’s Pizza on 27th and 7th. Ive always loved their stuff but when my movers told me that they drive in from Brooklyn for the stuff, I stopped what I was doing and ordered a large.

Most Delicious and Filling Sandwich:

For those who need 2 pounds of food in their stomach, head to Olympic Pita… the schwarma and falafel masterpiece on 38th. Their pita is good, but their homemade lafa bread, fired in their own stone ovens… are amazing. Filled with hummus, fresh chicken, red cabbage and onions…. well, there you have it.

Runner Up: The #1 Combo from Lenny’s (any location).

Best Sweets:

Beard Papas Cream Puffs. Don’t get me started.

Best Hunk of Cheese to Impress:

And the Forkie goes to…. Murrays Cheese in the West Village, and their wheel of Roomano. That’s right, ROOMANO… and aged gouda with crunchy flecks of magic. Teamed with Eli’s Rosemary and Olive Crackers (also sold there) and you’ve got one heck of an appetizer at your next shindig.

Runner Up: Robusto, at Whole Foods in Time Warner Center, anything from Artisinal

Best Restaurant Appetizer:

Italian eatery Cesca on West 75th has been a neighborhood mainstay for years… and while they aren’t known as an “elite” destination, their Cauliflower Fritti may be one of the best dishes in New York City. Think crisp, fresh cauliflower, delicately battered and fried, sprinkled with fresh lemon juice and served piping hot. For me, a cocktail and a bowl of this stuff is all I really need in life.

Best Baked Item:

Love them or hate them, Empanada Joe’s has an impressive little pie that can hit the spot. Although some of the flavors can be hit or miss, the beef are worth the trip and are sold in boxes of a dozen if you have a crowd at home.

Runner Up: Cheese puffs from Murray’s Cheese

Best Turkish Joint Nobody Knows About:

I still believe Zeytin is serving NY’s best Turkish food, but Akdeniz on West 46th is a terrific place to discover. Their falafel is moist and crisp, their hummus tangy and nearly perfect… and their kababs delicious. The kicker? It’s all affordable.

Best Item to Bring Home and Grill:

I hesitate to write this, as I consider it my secret… but the parsley and cheese sausage at Faicco’s Pork Store in the West Village (home of the rice ball) may be the best sausage in New York City, period. Buy it in their “ring”, bring it home and grill it. The flavor is one of a kind… and that’s coming from a crazy sausage eating Cajun like myself.

Runner Up: Dry Aged Rib Eye Steak from Ottamanelli's on Bleeker.

Best Falafel:

The king, and still champion… Maoz. With a new location on the Upper West Side, more New Yorkers are starting to become believers. If you haven’t tried it, you owe it to yourself to make a visit.

Runner Up: Olympic Pita

Best Slice of Old New York:

Keen’s may have years of history… but a trip to Frankie and Johnnie's in Midtown is like falling into one of the Godfather movies. Yes, years ago you needed to whisper a password through the front door… but today, after a climb up the stairs – a delicious pre-theatre steak awaits… and a decent crabmeat cocktail at that.

Runner Up: Peter Lugar in Brooklyn.

Best Bar to Close A Deal:

Stone Rose in the Time Warner Center may be the sexiest bar in Manhattan. The drinks are crazy expensive, but the view over Central Park is worth the coin…. and the snacks are good as well.

Runner Up: Mini Bar at The Muse on 46th.

Let The Mobile Blogging Begin!

2008-12-23T07:37:00.002-05:00

That's right... Fork New York has gone mobile! So stay tuned for faster updates about all of your favorite eats in and around NYC!

Andre

Danku: Not For Me

2008-12-18T09:49:00.005-05:00

As the fast food craze continues, Danku sets up shop and looks for their crowd....

As I have mentioned before, I am all about fast food. Especially fried food. I am from Louisiana. We fry food, then we fry it again.

That's why when I saw that Danku, the new sudo-euro-strangemenu-thingy opened in midtown, I was excited. Yum! Fried stuff.

Well, the excitement didn't last.

What I learned was that the fried egg roll looking thingy was actual a Kroket... a food I was familiar with traveling in Northern Europe... and not that fond of.

What is a kroket? Well, picture this.... a large, egg roll shaped object, fried crispy on the outside, filled with raw goo. And when I say raw goo, I mean pasty, snotty, raw flavored goo.

Danku offers many flavors of their raw goo rolls.... beef, chicken curry, salmon dill, mac and cheese (they were out of this one), spinach and artichoke... you get the picture.

To make matters worse, they offer these in a "meal deal" with a fancy boxed salad.

Let me first say that while I wasn't thrilled that the kroket had emerged in the USA, I went in with an open mind (and palate). Surely, you can make a kroket 10 different ways? But sure enough, this was the same kroket that I had tasted in Amsterdam, and thought... ugggh. That's when I hit the Maoz stand and became a lifelong fan of their falafel, the best in the world.

While I am no big fan of the kroket (and I eat everything fried mind you) the rest of the menu looked ok.... a few satay choices, some salads and sandwiches, etc..... lots of organic garb. But when you hang your hat on serving the kroket, well, you have a problem.

So the final grade? Well, for the kroket itself, I bestow a healthy D+, as while this isn't my thing you may certainly have a taste for these. For the rest of the joint, when you take away the kroket, it becomes one of a hundred "healthy choice" stores that litter Manhattan.

Danku
47 W 57th St - Btwn 5th & 6th Ave
New York, NY 10019

212 888-3777

FORK GOES FAST FOOD

2008-12-11T08:48:00.007-05:00

With A Glut Of New Joints, Let's Take A Look At Who's Making A Mark

Let's face it, we all do it. Sure, I'd like to tell you I had a Chef Salad for lunch, but the truth is I likely had 2 King-Koti Rolls from the Biryani Cart on 46th and 6th.

Fast food, cart food, you name it.... is part of our lives. From the celebrated "regular slice" to the Grays Papaya Hot Dog, NY is famous for fast eats.... and now the marketplace is changing.

For some reason, fast food concepts like trying out their wares in Manhattan. I'm not completely sure why, as New Yorkers can be the most difficult to please in the world... but as the song says "if I can make it there, I'll make it anywhere".

To begin my series on funky new fast food joints, I'll begin with a food that is near and dear to my heart.

Empanadas.

Two weeks ago I was a few blocks west of the office and stumbled upon the new chain of sublime fried pies, "Empanada Joes".

Let me first qualify these remarks by letting you know that I basically exist for anything a. in the shape of a dumpling or pie, and b. fried, baked or steamed in any way (this would include deep fried, pan fried, wok steamed, boiled in butter, etc, etc).

Let's break it down shall we?

THE JOINT

Empanada Joes is a sterile, funky little space. There is no thoughts of a far away land (or even Mexico) and certainly no romance here. There isn't even a comfy seat... but I am guessing they planned it that way - eat your stuff and kindly get out. Grade: C-

THE ATTITUDE

People at the location I went to were overly friendly... which in New York, could get you killed. It is the ultimate cheese factor when management insists you greet some guy at the door 30 feet away with a "Hi, What Can I Get You", when you can't even see the freaking menu much less have a plan of action. Grade D

THE MENU

The menu is poorly designed and conceived. They basically offer an array of empanadas you can order ala carte or with possibly the worst tasting, undercooked side dishes ever created. The menu doesn't offer as many meal options as you would like, or add-ons (extra this or that, without ordering a whole new meal)... and for this they are losing money. GRADE: C-

THE FOOD

Well, here comes the good news. Aside from the side dishes.... and I'll expand here.... a black bean and rice dish that was described as well seasoned if not spicy, was actually unedible.... and nearly frozen as it had been in the cold case for a day or two..... anyway, ASIDE from the side dishes, the empanadas are solid. These pies aren't "oh my god pull the car over there is an Empanada Joe's" good, but I would certainly consider grabbing a dozen of these for a football party.

I had two pies, one Argentine Beef which was very good.... and one "CheeseSteak" which was average, and had nothing to do with a cheese steak in anyway. The verdict?
FOOD: B (except the sides, that get an F)

THE FINAL TALLY

This is a good effort and idea, but these guys need to forget about the bells and whistles and sell freaking empanadas. You should have about 20 different ways to order as many or as few as you want in a value pack, and they should give the nutritional/healthy spin that surrounds this place a rest. Note to Empanada Joe's: YOU SELL EMPANADAS. This eat beautiful, feel beautiful ad campaign you have needs to be rethought. I don't know about you, but after I eat 4 or 5 large empanadas, I don't feel beautiful.

OVERALL: C+ Go for the pie, and forget the rest. And oh yea... get it to go.

UPDATE!!!!! UPDATE!!!! UPDATE!!!!!!

After being contacted by Empanada Joes (who were not actually thrilled by this post) I stand corrected... the pies are actually baked, not fried. So , I offer and extra kudos for their ability to bake and NOT fry these tasty treats..... but please, fix your side dishes... they are still unedible.

NEXT UP: MY LUNCH AT DANKU; WHAT THE HELL AM I EATING?

The Dishes That Make New York Great

2008-11-25T06:54:00.005-05:00

It May Not Always Be A Restaurant That Makes Your Head Spin In NYC

I consider myself a street scavenger. No matter where I am walking, in any neighborhood... I am fascinated with what people are eating. Local stores, food carts, butcher shops... you name it. It's this food that becomes the fabric of the neighborhood... and shapes the tastes of a community.

For over 107 years, Faicco's Butcher Shop in the West Village has been that place. Situated about 10 feet west of the famous "Murray's" cheese shop on Bleeker Street, Faicco's has remained a constant in a city of change. I can only hope they are around for another 107.

What makes Faicco's great is the pride and skill behind their products. From trimmed pork products to incredible homemade sausages (cheese and parsley which is incredible, broccoli rabe... and sweet italian with fennel to name a few) Faicco's has separated itself from the local butcher shop to a gourmet destination.

As much as I love everything these guys make and sell… the dish that stands out are Faicco's “rice balls”…. known to the world as arancini. It’s hard to convey just how incredible these are, but I can tell you that I have made trips to Faicco's just to buy a bag of them… and from what I can tell, their appeal is no secret to the locals.

What is a rice ball? Well, for any hushpuppy loving Cajun like myself, it is a bite of pure ecstasy. Imagine a perfectly shaped ball (slightly larger than a golf ball and just as heavy), filled with creamy rice and mild Italian cheese, lightly breaded and fried. Hell, I guess it’s the Italian version of the hushpuppy.

How you enjoy this little dude is up to you. The preferred way is to heat them in the oven until warm, and served with a little fresh marinara over the top or on the side (Faicco's sells them room temp in the store). My problem is I can rarely get them home.

These are so good, I usually just rip the bag open and begin eating them right there on the sidewalk in front of the store. Last weekend I got them home, but was so excited I ate the bag before the oven could preheat.

It is truly, one of the best dishes in New York City, and for .75 cents a pop, a good deal at that. If you are having a dinner party anytime soon, these should be secret weapon #1.

By the way, a trip to Faicco's can be about more that pork and rice balls…. their Italian market is charming and offers an array of imported items (from pasta to good tomatoes) to have you cooking all weekend.

So now you know. Faicco's. Just another gem that makes NYC the best place to eat in the world. I’ll see ya there (I’ll be the guy eating rice balls on the street).

Address-
260 Bleeker Street
NYC, NY
212-243-1974

Photos courtesy of Roadfood.com

MAOZ COMES TO THE UPPER WEST

2008-09-21T12:31:00.005-04:00

It’s crowded, confusing and annoying, but it’s still the best falafel in NYC

Being a resident of the Upper West Side for nearly 3 years, I’ve watched in amazement as the area continues to turn into a NYC food destination.

Sure, the opening of the Time Warner Center was the spark, but then entered noted chefs, long time brands, and even…. well, even Shake Shack.

What this means is that the overall feeling towards dining on the Upper West has changed, and so have the people who call it home. Instead of moderately priced average tasting fare, Upper West Siders have made it clear… cook well and we will pay. Hence, the onslaught of swanky new digs (Bar Boulud, Bloomingdale Road, etc).

Well, when the big boys move in and set up shop, so do the less-expensive newbies such as international vegetarian chain Maoz. I have been a long time Maoz lover, having had my first delish falafel outside the train station in Amsterdam about 4 years ago. Since then, Maoz has expanded their euro operation into the US market, and NYC has been the beneficiary of a few locations, including their newest at 70th and Amsterdam.

It took about 24 hours after opening for me to make my way to the new store, a much closer jaunt for me from my UWS digs than the tiny Maoz that opened on Union Square, some 75 blocks south… about a year ago.

As with any opening, there is good and bad, so here we go:

THE GOOD

Well, it’s Maoz. This is the most flavorful, best tasting falafel in New York, period. You may find larger (Moshe Cart on 46th) or cheaper (just about anywhere) but this recipe works so well it converted even me, lover of all meat and seafood, to crave the stuff.

Even better is the homemade bread, and veggie bar, that exists for you to dress YOUR falafel, the way YOU want it. It’s the old “Have It Your Way” Burger King idea, except you dress the thing… more like the old “Burger Chef” chain…. Remember Burger Chef and Jeff? Crap, I’m getting old.

The Belgian fries are good if you eat in… but not so good if you take them home, unless soggy is your thing.

THE BAD

Well, this store needs to get its act together. The lines are long. The menu is confusing as hell. People have no idea how to order. There is no method or flow at the veggie bar, so it is chaos getting to it, and then making your falafel. It’s expensive. The wait is too long.

THE VERDICT

I don’t care. I’m such an addict I would wait for an hour in a blizzard for the stuff. But what I do hope (and have no reason not to believe) is that they get their act together like the Union Square store, and make the place run smoothly.

BONUS

Want a bonus? The store is next door to PinkBerry. It’s falafel and fro-yo on the go-go.

Welcome to the UWS, Maoz. It’s great to have you as a neighbor!

Patsy's Is The New KING OF PIZZA in NYC

2008-08-10T18:30:00.005-04:00

It Really Is The Best Pie In New York City

It's wasn't long ago when a friend of mine and I were talking food, and the subject of pizza came up.

"Well, Mr. Fork New York, where do you go?", he remarked.

This is a trick question. Everyone in NY knows there are literally 10 places to get world class pie from... so I thought carefully before I responded.

"Grimaldi's", I answered.

But I was lying. I could have said DiFara, John's, Daniello's, Otto... well, you get the picture.

It was then he confessed to me that he believed the best pizza in the city is on the Upper West Side at Patsy's.

I dismissed this claim until a month ago, when sure enough I found myself walking down the street in front of the very same Patsy's he had anointed King Of Pizzas.

So, of course, I went in.

From the moment I walked through the door, I knew I was in trouble. The smell was fantastic... the crowd was buzzing... the pizzas were flying around the room, landing on small stands that were hovering 10 inches about the tables. Cold Stella filled old draft mugs.

Quickly I sat down, and got started with a terrific arugula salad. (warning, this salad can feed a family of four and still give you enough for a doggie bag home).

But before I ruined my appetite, I ordered a sausage and onion pizza... and waited in expectation.

In 20 minutes, the pizza arrived.... and the rest is a blur.

This was one of the best pizza's I've ever tasted... not just in NYC.... but anywhere.

The crust was perfect... thin, crispy and worthy of holding onto the toppings without falling apart.

The toppings were homemade and terrific. The sauce delicious balance of sweet and bold... and the cheese obviously homemade. The wood burning oven was magical and I could taste the amazing aroma of the oven.

How had I missed this in the past?

I devoured this poor pizza, who didn't have a chance.

So, here, I now profess.... Patsy' as the best pizza in Manhattan.

Until I find the next joint.

61 W 74th St
New York 10023
(Btwn CPW & Columbus Ave)

Phone: (212) 579-3000
Fax:(212) 579-7075

CAJUN BREAKTHROUGH

2008-07-02T14:15:00.005-04:00

Holy Crap, Those People Are Deep Frying Sausage.... Thank God

Leave it to the folks in South Louisiana to push the envelope of culinary creativity.

On my recent escapade to the hot, sticky land we call South Louisiana, I happened upon a new boudin "treatment" that I just have to share.

As many of you who love cajun food know, the "boudin ball" has become a Baton Rouge/New Orleans staple. Plain and simple, a boudin ball is a ball of rice and meat (boudin sausage filling), rolled into the size of a traditional hushpuppy, and deep fried. Most credit the birth of the commercial boudin ball to Tony's Seafood Market, on Plank Road in Baton Rouge. Today, you can find them in hundreds of markets, restaurants and gas stations.

What I learned over the weekend was that you didn't need to shape and fry and boudin ball to enjoy fried boudin.

My friends at Bellue's, a cajun company that primarily makes ready to prepare cajun foods in Baton Rouge, has launched their own fried boudin treat...but not a ball.

It's the entire link.

That's right, you remove the casing, and deep fry the entire sausage link. What you get is a hot and crispy link, slightly crunchy on the outside and moist and hot in the middle. It's genius.

As I quizzed the kitchen staff at Bellue's, they confessed there wasn't much to the magic... they simply removed the casing and fried at room temp. Having fried many a boudin ball in my day, I found this hard to believe (these things like to cook apart)... but they showed me first hand their process... and sure enough, it worked.

As I haven't been in Louisiana on a regular basis for a while, I'm not sure if this method has spread throughout cajun country... but I am guessing it may very well have.

It just goes to show you, there is always something new happening with food down south. This just happens to be my cup of tea.

To read about the best boudin in the world, visit my favorite site on the subject, and what makes their boudin the best.....

(by the way, you can order delicious boudin and jalapeno cheese bread from Bourque's, but the best boudin on this planet is made at Jerry Lee's Kwik Stop)

CAJUN ALERT

If you happen to be driving through the Scott, Louisiana area anytime soon, I would highly recommend you stop your damn car, get out, and eat one of these.

That's right, it's the greatest Pork Chop Sandwich on the planet. A perfect chop.... marinated, seasoned and resting quietly between two pieces of innocent white bread. This is just about as good as it gets.

You can find 'em at Don's Specialty Meats... tell 'em Andre sent ya.

The Best Italian in Manhattan?

2008-05-26T16:01:00.007-04:00

Andre's Favorite Italian "Traditional" Restaurant of the Year is Da Umberto

As a true Pastafarian, I have long said that there is amazing italian in the most unlikely places....

Sometimes, you have to scream it from the rafters.

There are restaurants in NYC that actual do italian as well as Mario :)

One of my very favorites may in fact be one of, if not the best in NYC..... I visited Da Umberto several months ago, and here is what I thought then.... and now.

Fork New York: The Archive

Before I actually lived in New York, I questioned if in fact New York was the best restaurant city in the world. I had traveled to London, Paris, Tokyo, Rome, Berlin and others.... and had lived in Chicago and Los Angeles... not to mention growing up 60 miles from New Orleans. But after moving to NYC several years ago, it didn't take long for the realization to set in... NYC is simply the best restaurant city in the world.

A constant reminder of this realization occured only days ago, as I visited a remarkable Italian restaurant... that in many cities would be considered "the best" in town. Of course in New York, it is "one of the best".

The spot?... Da Umberto, the classic destination in Chelsea. And surprise, surprise. This joint isn't owned and operated by Super Mario.

Simply put, Da Umberto is the type of restaurant that makes NYC great. It is unassuming, unpretentious, truly authentic and incredibly delicious. Here's the skinny.

Those NY'ers that are keen to tricks and gadgets will smile at the door of Da Umberto's. Why? At the door you aren't greeted by a hostess stand or stuffy waiter.. but a coat rack. That's right, your are in the foyer of someone's home, and that's how you are made to feel. Come on in.

After a glass of prosecco at the bar (thank you Rocco), we made our way into the middle of the deep, narrow dining room to find a spacious spot. The three of us settled in and began to try and figure out where in the hell those amazing smells were coming from.

With one of our party having a good deal of Da Umberto experience, he put the evening in the hands of our terrific waiter. The waiter suggested a menu of many tastes... a plate of mixed grilled and marinated vegetables (Da Umberto antipasto) with a sauteed jumbo shrimp in garlic cream and a smoky, grilled baby squid that was out of this world.

Next, a plate of sliced proscuitto (perfect), sopressata (one of my favorites), mortadella (simple) and chunks of aged parmigiano reggiano (very high quality, with some salty crystals lurking within).

Not to miss a sampling of pasta, we all received a small plate of remarkable bites... the first, a handmade mushroom ravioli topped with black truffle cream... along side a spaghetti with fresh tomatoes rendered in pancetta fat. Outstanding.

As good as the first three course were, the meats and fish to come were worth waiting for.

The veal milanese, pounded thin, breaded and pan fried was topped with a saute of cherry tomatoes and arugula. The sweet tomatoes and peppery arugula were terrific... but after one bite of the tender veal I realized the cutlet had been fried in pure butter. Wow.

Not to be outdone, my colleagues enjoyed a venison osso bucco... rich and tender over a bed of perfect risotto... and a whole roasted monk fish, grilled to perfection on the bone. Topped with lemon and thyme, the dish was truly authentic and tasted as good as it smelled.

Desert looked amazing... a cart of treats including a 10 pound bowl of tiramisu... a gigantic offering unlike anything I had ever seen. Next visit, I'll remember this and try and save room.

So by now you are likely getting the drift that I like... no love, Da Umberto's. When you combine terrific staff, feel, food and ambiance, it's hard to miss. No, this isn't a cheap night (think $60-80 per person without wine)... but the dinner tab will cost you much less than a trip to Rome. Of course, a few bottles of wine and you could fly coach to Venice, but I'll leave that up to you.

Additionally, you should be dressed. One thing I noticed was there were no slackers waiting for a table, and the crowd was dressed to kill. Nice.

Lastly, call ahead. This isn't a place you can just "drop in" on and get a killer table. This is a special place, so treat it as such.

When the holiday season rolls around, I take time to thank my lucky stars for the things in this life that make me truly happy.

Thank you Da Umberto's....

Ocean Grill: A Neighborhood Favorite Shines

2008-05-19T06:32:00.004-04:00

It's An Upper West Secret, And Folks Around Here Like It That Way

Without question, the Upper West Side restaurant scene is again a hot topic. With spots like The Mermaid Inn, Dovetail, Bar Boulud and Eighty One getting mucho press, it would seem that the area is evolving into…. wait for it…. a destination-filled neighborhood of quality eateries. Is there really a Shake Shack on the horizon?

Truth be told, there are many solid places to eat on the Upper West…. and even though the area gets hammered by the culinary elite, the locals above 59th like to keep secrets to themselves. One of those secrets may very well be Ocean Grill.

Being from South Louisiana, I’ve never been motivated to eat fish in a restaurant located farther than 75 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. Having grown up eating fresh red snapper, drum, grouper, croaker, etc…. I have come to love fish that don’t taste like, well, fish.

But being hungry for a shellfish dinner this weekend, I happily rolled into Ocean Grill (a BR Guest Restaurant) and decided to approach this “north of the border” spot with an open mind.

I was pleasantly surprised.

First, Ocean Grill is a handsome spot. You can dress down, but with a sleek décor you may not want to…. as I noticed most of the people coming in were dressed for dinner.

The menu is a bit strange at first, as most traditional seafood restaurants don’t usually offer sushi, sashimi and maki rolls…. but then it makes sense. If you have a place full of fresh fish, why wouldn’t you serve sushi?

The menu also offers a list of tempting appetizers that include the obligatory Maryland Crab Cake and Fried Calmari, but it was the Bamboo Steamed Shrimp Dumplings (a very close cousin to those found at sister restaurant Ruby Foo’s) that did it for me. Served with a ginger soy sauce and full of freshly minced shrimp, they were a great start.

It was about this time my ordering veered away from standard fare, and went the way of the shellfish.

Next we enjoyed a large platter of Jonah Crab Claws. A pound of these, about 25 claws laid over a bed of crushed ice ($41), were reminiscent of the stone crab claws made famous at Joe’s, one of our Miami favorites. Served with both cocktail and seasoned mayo, the waiter suggested and delivered a cup of melted butter that elevated the dish another notch. These were delicious, and could be a reason we swing by another day for an afternoon treat.

The main course was just arriving, and as you might have guessed, we stayed the course and ordered a couple of 2-pound lobsters. The fine folks at Ocean Grill will either steam, broil or grill your lobster, and we chose the traditional steamed version, likely out of habit. They will also shell and clean your lobster, an option I highly recommend if it’s one of those days you don’t feel like getting your hands dirty.

The lobsters were quite good… firm and tender, prepared just right. Served with roasted fingerling potatoes and garlicky broccoli rabe, the dish didn’t disappoint.

Those who come to Ocean Grill looking for fish will find numerous options, including roasted cod, horseradish crusted salmon, a familiar Chilean Sea Bass, big eye tuna and a crabmeat crusted mahi-mahi. All of these looked great strolling past us, but none made us think twice about the lobster dinner we were devouring.

Deserts are another story, as the list was inventive and impressive. Topping the list was a chocolate fondue that made saying no just a bit more painful…. But we were glad we passed as a perfect draw of espresso was all we needed to cap a perfect early supper.

As we were exiting the space, the hostess presented us with a few treat to take home, a bad of sweet muffins to enjoy later… a nice touch.

I think it’s likely we’ll be back in the future to try a few different items, as the location and quality of Ocean Grill is to good to pass up. Albeit pricy, it’s a pleasant locale…. even for those who are tough to please.

Artisanal: A Murray Hill Gem

2008-05-04T07:57:00.007-04:00

Andre’s Brunch Tour Continues… with Cheese

For years I’ve loved the charm of the Murray Hill area of Manhattan, in an almost jealous way. I guess it’s been a question of just who lives there…. and I’ve always looked at the neighborhood in two ways. First….. where the hell is everyone? And second, where the hell did all of these people come from?

Regardless of my musings, the neighborhood has its share of great restaurants, and for my money Artisanal is one of them.

First, for those of you who love walking into authentic Parisian bistros, you are in luck. The room screams Paris, with cozy banquettes, tiled floors and warmly lit glass globes. Thankfully, there is plenty of elbow room here…. An attribute that comes in handy when your table runneth over with cheese.

Speaking of cheese, this is somewhat of a cheese Mecca. It’s like Murray’s, with a restaurant attached. Even for those of us who know our cheese, the well crafted menu can be overwhelming, so do what I did…. solicit help.

The other thing that leaps out at you is the massive wine list that offers every selection by the glass. Fairly priced, there is something here for everyone…. you’ll approve.

My Saturday afternoon visit was one of bliss, as my “brunch tour” of Manhattan continues… and if you are like me and enjoy mixing sweet and savory tastes around 1:00pm on a lazy Saturday, you are in luck.

The menu includes a few items you might expect…. oysters and clams, salads, snails, soups, omlettes and sandwiches…. but throw in a pot of rich, hot fondue with bread cubes, air-dried beef, fingerling potatoes, kielbasa, beef tips and apples… and well, now you’re talking.

If you’re looking for something heartier, you can opt for a plate of soft scrambled eggs with hanger steak, a shallow skillet of decadent macaroni and cheese, a spring vegetable risotto or a pulled Berkshire pork sandwich. Of course those with a sweet tooth won’t be disappointed with the almond croissant French toast.

So the Fork New York verdict?

Me likey. I found the place fun and delicious, and priced fairly for a restaurant of this quality. The cheese is pricey, but pulling in this amount of artisan fare isn’t a cheap proposition, so I can’t slam them for it. I’d advise going easy on the cheese and heavy on the plate fare if budget is a concern. There are also lunch and brunch prix fixe deals which are good buys.

These guys are easy to find (right off of Park Avenue on 32nd), and offer reservations on Open Table. I’d suggest you throw on a beret and get over there.

Madeleine Mae: A Change Of Pace on The UWS

2008-04-27T16:21:00.003-04:00

Like It Or Not, I Have An Opinion

This proud southerner has noticed that newcomer Madeleine Mae is causing a stir on the Upper West Side.

Critics have been quick to pan this newly opened restaurant/café, but I am not. That said, I feel the need to fire back, so call this my “rebellious rebuttal” to the over-analyzing food sect.

Attention Bruni lovers and Chowhound faithful: Give it a rest.

First, understand what Madeleine Mae is not. This is not a Creole gem such as New Orleans famous “Dookie Chase”. This is not a Cajun imposter, like the recently closed UWS Jacques-Imo’s. This isn’t really a soul/creole/Cajun place at all. Really.

The feel of Madeleine Mae is that of Carolina breeze. This is home to comfort food with an original, nostalgic twist. An unusual shrimp and grits dish, biscuits and cornbreads, sides of greens, mac and cheese, fish dishes and plates of pork loin. Neatly mixed cocktails and a menu of “Rhum Cures”… (rum that is infused with other flavors such as vanilla, banana, cinnamon, etc). Tempting desserts that are worth saving room for.

All of it slightly overpriced for the UWS (shrimp and grits $15.95 for a small side dish portion), but accessible and often delicious.

I’d encourage you to visit Madeleine Mae just about anytime, but without question, this is a brunch joint. The menu provides an interesting mix at dinner, but the brunch menu is full of real temptation.

I’ll set the table for you.

It’s a gorgeous, lazy Saturday afternoon about 2pm. You and the other have dropped the dog at the “Canine Ranch” for an afternoon of playtime. Needing to unwind from an aggressive week of work tasks you left unfinished (you need a raise, and some of the others in the office to allow you to catch your breath), you wander across the street to Madeleine Mae and to ask for the table tucked inside of the open French doors, facing the sidewalk. You are seated.

You pause and think, “this is all good”.

Instantly, the space smells of yumness. The place isn’t crowded, but there are people. You promptly get a menu, and are asked if a cocktail, beer or Rhum cure is in order. You oblige.

The menu reveals fantastic frittatas, large impressive omelets and thick smoky bacon coked to order. This would be an easy decision if not for the sweet and savory French toast, biscuits and gravy and possibly the best Meyer lemon pancakes in Manhattan. Of course there are fresh fruit options and lighter fare as well. You notice these aren’t “Denny’s” prices, but you also realize that you aren’t at “Denny’s”. For this, you are grateful.

After sipping your last sip of champagne, your brunch arrives… looking and smelling terrific. About that time your Rhum cure arrives, and you begin to slip into your Saturday afternoon in style.

This is the part where you ask to see the dinner menu out of pure curiosity. You note the items that might bring you back, and then dismiss them as you have now named Madeleine Mae “your” brunch spot. The check comes; you finish your last sip of vanilla infused rum, and head for the door. Your companion says, “you see, I told you that you would like this place.”

As you leave, you see a couple… asking for the table tucked inside the French doors, and smile.

So, enough… foodie haters. Take a moment and realize that if the bread isn’t heated to 81 degrees, or if the soup is in a bread bowl instead of a heated cup, the world isn’t going to end. There are many reasons why we can love a space, and for me Madeleine Mae offers me several to choose from.

After all, this is my brunch place.

Madeleine Mae
461 Columbus Ave. (W. 82nd St.)
New York, NY 10024
212-496-3000

Note: My friends at Madeleine Mae have their faults. An unfinished website and no menupages listing is a kiss of death. My message: Get your act together on the digital side and sell your business. You’ve earned it.

Photo Credit: Steven Richter

Happy Birthday Justin

2008-04-24T14:54:00.003-04:00

No restaurant review today, just a tip of the hat to a true Louisiana original, Justin Wilson.

Today is the birthday, in 1914, of Justin Wilson, in Roseland, Louisiana.

I first heard of Justin from my Grandmother (my Nonnie) who sometimes spoke of Justin, as she new him as a boy. She was from Amite, Louisiana (just north of Roseland)... and new everyone in the parish. She often laughed when she heard him speak, as she didn't remember the "thick" cajun accent as they grew up.

He was not exactly a Cajun, but that didn't stop him from becoming the world's best-known ambassador of Cajun culture. He picked up most of his style, "speech", and stories while working along Bayou Lafourche as a young man. He first came to public attention with his comedy routines, but soon he started talking about cooking. Wilson's pioneering television cooking shows became among the most popular of their kind. The recipes, it must be said, were less than brilliant. He was not a stickler for using the best ingredients, and never had a problem using canned this or that. But that's quite authentic. Justin Wilson died in 2001, but his TV shows are still in circulation, his many cookbooks still sell well, and his Cajun jokes are still being repeated--I garontee.

Long live the memory of Justin Wilson.