Organic Gardening the poor mans Hydroponics using the Mittleider Method

Controlling Ants in Your Garden

2009-12-02T04:21:00.001-08:00

Controlling ants is essential for the successful gardener. And since "they" have taken away some of our best tools for control, I believe the following article, taken from Weidners' Gardens website at http://www.weidners.com/ants.html is very valuable for all of us to understand. The article looks much better by going to their site, but here are the words.

The Battle of Ants vs Gardeners

Ants in the Garden, Ants in your House

This is a Weidners' Gardens 'Learning Page'

Keep on reading to find out:

Why controlling ants in the garden is essential to healthy plants.
Understanding the lifestyle of the Ant.
The best Ant Control Product Available.

Meet the Argentine Ant

This little ant or more accurately the millions of ants that probably live rent free in your yard is very probably the Argentine ant. These ants are the kings and queens of the jungle, your garden and almost everywhere else.

Very smart, hard working and very hungry, these little insects stand between you and effective control of the bad insects that damage the beautiful plants in your garden. Unless you control the ants in your garden your chances of success with beneficial insects and other pest control measures are doomed to failure.

The most favorite food of the Argentine ant is the sweet honeydew that aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies and other garden insects secrete.

Ants will do anything to keep this supply of yummy food available. They will actively attack beneficial insects that threaten their food supply. They spread both the insects and their eggs to other plants in your garden.

If your goal is to have healthy plants without using large quantities of pesticides then your first and most important job is to control the ants.

Common quote from our customers......."Get rid of the Ants? You must be kidding, my house is built on an ant hill!!"

Yes, you are right your house is built on an ant hill, more likely a dozen ant hills.

At Weidners Gardens we started researching all we could into the life cycles of ants, natural ant control measures and what really works . We've found what appears to be the very best ant killer that is also environmentally friendly, low toxicity and actually kills most of your ants. .

The clear winner is a product called Maxforce. The very best ant killer available and you can buy it as granules, bait stations or Ant Gel at Weidners Gardens This is a commercial product used by professionals and is not very easily found in most nurseries or stores. You can order directly from Maxforce by going to
www.maxforce.com This is a really good place to learn all about ants, rats, roaches and other gross things. I would suggest that California folks particularly read everything on the Argentine Ants which is usually the Ant that is out in your garden.

The bottom line as I read it is that if you want to control Argentine ants outside you need to use IPM or integrated pest management. That means a combination of low toxic almost non=toxic Maxforce and some very careful and targeted spraying with pesticides especially for ants.

They have a whole range of products that you can order direct from them but the information that you will get is both depressing and useful.

RATS,Rats,Rats...this is the summer for rats in Southern California because of all the rain we have had. The nursery is no exception and I am after those Rats with a vengeance. If rats are one of your problems read the Maxforce section on rats. Too gross but knowledge is power. If you want to know how I am doing in the rat crusade send me an email or come in. I may never win but a lot of rats are going die too!

In the research tests, Maxforce killed from 92% to 99% of the Argentine Ants within 10 days. Maxforce comes in a special fishmeal/silkworm pupae base that is especially effective in killing the maximum percentage of ants. Because this is a protein base, Maxforce can reach all ant life stages. Maxforce also acts quickly to give some immediate knockdown to forager* ants.

Bait stations seem to be the preferred method and are the least toxic and safest use. Granules are very good for use outdoors and a little bit goes a long way

*See Ant Trails

Maxforce We'll have it available at the nursery along with more information. if you live outside of the Southern California area you can buy the Maxforce products over the internet now or by going directly to the Maxforce website

760-436-2194, fax 760-436-3681, E-mail to staff@...

Follow the Ant Trail... If you like to learn more about life cycles, how ants find your food so quickly and other interesting hints on eliminating ants problems from your house and garden follow the Ant Trails below.

Ant Trail .............Did you ever wonder how the ants find that food you left on the counter so quickly? One minute there is not an ant around and a few hours later there are millions of them swarming all over.

Here is the answer: When a scout ant leaves the nest it weaves all over, back and forth looking for insect honeydew, sweets, proteins, foods & water...anything good! As soon as that something good is found the scout ant turns around and makes the straightest most direct trail back to base camp (the nest) leaving a scent trail for other ants. This scent is called a 'pheromone' and is used by all sorts of insects.

Each ant that follows the trail to the food source reinforces the path with ever more pheromones...soon the path is so strong that millions of ants are following it right into your kitchen!

What about homemade killers like boric acid, chalk, glass cleaners, talcum powder, Diatomaceous earth etc. What about Diazanon and Dursban? We used to have them but they are no longer available...Sorry

Let's look at them one at a time. They all have advantages & disadvantages.

Boric Acid in a sugar base. One of the best of the homemade controls. Boric Acid in a sugar syrup or mixed with sugar is right up there at the top of the research results. Not always consistent results. sometimes it worked well, other times not as well. It's certainly the cheapest way to go. Sugar baits can give a quick knockdown but do not usually reach all the stages of ant life.

In one of the research trials the boric acid had killed fewer ants than the pure peanut butter control....however in a longer trial boric acid killed all of the Pharaoh ants, queens and all within 7 weeks. In my own yard, I had great great results in one spot, no more ants for about 6 or 7 months. In another spot in the same yard, same
mixture...used over and over again and it seemed to have no results at all???

Diatomaceous earth. This natural product is made up of microscopic very sharp pieces. It is a very good barrier against ants & snails. Making a circle around citrus trees can be one of your tools to keep the ants away. Chinese chalk and talcum powder probably work the same way. If ants are coming in to your garden from a neighbor a barrier of Diatomaceous earth can help. Be careful not to breathe in the dust.

Windex and other glass cleaners do a quick job of discouraging ants in the home. The ants often return as soon as you turn your back.

If you must use pesticides spray only on the ground or part way up the trunk of citrus trees to avoid killing the good bugs too.

Handy Hint: The professionals say not to use other ant killing products at the same time as you use Maxforce. You can ruin all the good that Maxforce is doing. Don't get impatient!

Don't forget that just because you make something in your kitchen doesn't mean it is not toxic. Boric acid is a poison and should be used carefully just like any other toxic substance. Always be careful and keep everything out of the reach of children and pets. Sugar syrups especially can be tempting. Always read all the directions on a product and follow them.

Come into the nest & meet the family.

Argentine Ants.......

In the garden and often in the house the ant you are most likely to meet in California is the Argentine Ant. The came in illegally on coffee ships from Brazil in 1891. The Argentine Ant is very aggressive and chases out most of the other ants around.

Argentine ants nest outside under rocks, sidewalks, driveways, under wood....almost anywhere in your garden. They make multiple nests. They also like to make nests right at the base of plants. You already know that ...just look in the garden.

Did you know that they also have multiple queens in each nest? That the time it takes from egg to adult is from 33 to 141 days. Average about 75 days. All during the winter they are just multiplying away underground ready
to come out as soon as the warm weather starts.

Did you know that about 60% of eggs are actually eaten by the worker ants. The ants you see are called forager ants. they bring back the food supply to the nest. Argentine ants like sweets best, but they also are attracted to proteins. The queen and the larvae need proteins. All the ants work...no free lunch in the ant world. The ants in the nest are busy feeding the larvae and the queen.

Argentine ants are very social, they move from nest to nest, often making new nests as needed. Each nest can have 5 or 6 queens, all busy laying more and more eggs! This is why it is never possible to get rid of all the ants. these little critters just are smarter and breed faster than anything you can do. With work you can keep them under control and give the beneficial insects a chance to do their work.

Pharoah Ants.....This is the other ant that we see in Southern California. Smaller that the black argentine ant and more reddish brown in color, Pharoah ants usually nest inside of a building.

Their favorite food base is a protein base, peanut butter, peanut oil, the greasy food you left on the counter! It is easier to get complete control of Pharoah ants since there is a limit to how many sub-nests they can form.

Maxforce and -

How safe are these new products?

.....Compared to many of the pesticide products used for ant control these have a very low toxicity. They carry only a 'warning' label telling you to keep out of reach of children, pets, use gloves to apply etc. They tell you to keep pets away from areas treated with the granules for 24 hours. Actually the granules are so small and
you use so little that I think the warning is mostly to cover all the bases. [Like the warning not to drop the hair dryer in the tub while you are in it. Duh!!]

The bait stations are the safest way to go. Bait stations can be used indoors, in food areas, hospitals any place you find ants. In relative terms of toxicity they are among the lowest and safest you can find.

Final note:

In the battle of the ants against the gardeners you can win the battles, but you will never win the war!!
Remember: the aim of Integrated Pest Management and organic pest control is not to eliminate all the pests in the garden. The aim is to keep them in balance. You will temporarily knock down the ants. That's great! Give them some time and you will find they have returned. This is a war of battles and just be grateful when you win
some of them.

Nutrients "Used Up" in Decomposition

2009-12-01T04:20:00.001-08:00

Adding organic material to soil

Because microorganisms use nitrogen in soils to decompose the sawdust, the process of decay can temporarily lower the amount of available nitrogen in the soil. Remember that the loss is temporary, and that proper application of Weekly Feed will almost always eliminate any deficiency.

The only other potential problem is that sawdust typically has a low pH, and so the addition of calcium is important. We do this in the Pre-Plant mix.

There can be some benefits to adding organic matter to your soil. Benefits include the fact that it can:
a.. Increase the soil's ability to hold water.
a.. Create pores in the soil to improve soil oxygen.
a.. Loosen clay soil, making root growth easier.
a.. Help moderate soil temperatures.

The nutritional value is over-rated, however, and you never know how much of anything you're getting, so we do not recommend you count on compost for feeding your plants.

Avoiding problems with bugs and diseases

2009-11-29T06:51:00.000-08:00

We don't like to spray for bugs. Our experience has been that you seldom have any problem with bugs or disease if you follow the procedures by doing such things as:

1) Start with a weed-free garden - leaving no place for bugs or disease to live and multiply,
2) Maintain weed-free, dry aisles and planting beds - creating a natural barrier, again with no place for them to live or hide,
3) Use no mulch or other ground covering, which provides safe haven for bugs and diseases,
4) Grow from healthy, stocky seedlings that were produced in a protected environment where appropriate - thus providing stronger, bug and disease-resistant plants, as well as fewer days in the garden for pests to get established,
5) Grow the plants healthy and fast by providing ample water and nutrition at the root zone,
6) Eliminate all weeds as soon as they germinate, thus eliminating the competition for light, space, water, and food,
7) Prune all leaves that are touching the ground, plus other excess growth that doesn't support optimum fruit production,
8) Harvest at maturity, not leaving the crop in the garden to attract and feed pests, and
9) Remove all crop residue immediately, to minimize infestation.

Construction of raised beds

2009-11-23T17:28:00.000-08:00

Construction of raised beds using Redwood

Redwood is one of the best materials you can use for Grow-Boxes, for the same reason it's great for decks and patios, and even for house siding. It is very resistant to rotting.

It's also very expensive, however, and so usually the only way people get it is when it's used.

If someone is removing a wooden deck or patio, see if the wood is redwood, and then get it if you can.

To further assure long life for your Grow-Boxes, buy a good outdoor acrylic paint, and paint them before filling them. Paint all sides, including the bottom. Good paint, in my opinion, looks better than stain, and will give better protection than almost anything else of which I am aware.

Figuring Water Flow - The Easy Way

2009-11-18T04:13:00.000-08:00

Figuring Water Flow - The Easy Way

I am working on the irrigation part of setting up my new garden
scheme and would like to ask a question about figuring the exact
water flow. How would be the best way to figure what was actually
getting to the beds. My water system gives a gallon every 10 seconds
through the end of a water hose, but this will not be the actual
amount given through the PVC pipe in the bed since there would need to
be excess capacity to the PVC in order for it to remain pressurized
its full length and deliver a uniform amount. Any thoughts will be
helpful. Maybe it doesn’t matter but in order to use 2/3rds of a gallon of
water per S.F. per week I would need to know more closely the rate of
application it would seem. Thanks
Dave

Group:

Let's not complicate things. Take a ruler and measure the depth of the water.
When you measure 1", that's enough water.

To apply 1" of water to a 30'-long soil-bed requires approximately 2 1/2 cubic
feet, or 18 gallons of water. This assumes your planting area is 12" wide.
This is figured by multiplying width by length by depth, or 1' X 30' X 1/12'.

For me the simplest way to determine the amount of time necessary to water a
soil bed is to turn on the water, look at your watch, when you have 1" of water
in the bed look at your watch again, and subtract the first time from the second
(or use a stop watch). Or you could do the following:

If you're watering with a hose:
1) place the end of the hose near the head of the bed,
2) place it in a 5 gallon bucket,
3) turn on the water,
4) simultaneously look at your watch,
5) look at your watch when the bucket is full.
6) subtract the beginning time from the ending time,
7) this is the time for five gallons,
8) divide by 5 to get the time for one gallon,
9) multiply by the number of gallons needed to water the bed.

If you are using a PVC pipe system your first step is simply to remove the pipe
and place a bucket next to your ball valve.

Man, that's complicated. I just water them. But I guess if someone is going to
automate completely they should know how long it takes for each bed, so they can
water when they are away from home. That's a trick though, since the water
pressure to the end of the last bed may be different than that going to the
first bed. Life's tough, isn't it!

Jim Kennard

Weeding & Cultivating the Grow Beds

2009-11-10T05:44:00.000-08:00

Everyone please look at the Tools section of the Foundation website at www.growfood.com and learn about the Two-Way Hoe, if you haven't already. This and your rake are the tools that will make weeding SO MUCH EASIER, when you know how and do it soon enough.

Now go to the Learn section of the website and click on the Weeding chapter. This is a quick read, but VERY important for you to understand and implement on a regular basis. Believe me, if I didn't weed this way I couldn't begin to grow and maintain a 1/2 acre garden in the little time I have. Each of the Mittleider gardening books also has a chapter on proper and timely weeding. I recommend them highly.

The simple keys are:
1) Weed as soon as the first weeds appear, and do it thoroughly!
2) Pulling down your ridges and raking them back up again only takes about 5 minutes per bed, and eliminates the large majority of weeds as they first germinate.
3) Lift the PVC pipe out of the bed and run the 2-way hoe down the center between your plants to eliminate weeds in the planting area.
4) If using T-Frames, place them on one side of the bed in the ridge, leaving the planting area open for weeding, watering, and feeding.
5) Proper and timely weeding eliminates the need for ever using herbicides, and reduces pest and disease infestations as well.

Preventing Freezing in your garden

2009-11-09T06:12:00.000-08:00

Q. I have a farm in Afghanistan, which is about 30,000 square meters (3 hectares, or 7.5 acres), in which mainly grapes are grown. In the cold winter the grape vines are buried under the ground because of the very cold weather and then in the spring the vines are exposed to air and light, then the vines become green.

Mostly this works, but in some years, after the plants grow their leaves and grapes, the weather becomes cold again for only one night. All the grapes freeze and become black in color, and there is no time for the plants to grow new fruits because of the arrival of the winter.

Is there any solution for this problem other than a green house, because it will be too expensive to cover all of the farm. Is there a way to warm the plants for one night only? This year the whole yield of grapes was frozen. Please help.

A. 1) Watering everything, including the ground as well as the entire plant, immediately before it freezes, can sometimes save a crop if the frost is not too hard.
2) Another solution may be to have many small fires burning throughout your vineyard during the time temperatures go below freezing. In America this is done with propane and kerosene heaters, but that would probably be too expensive for you. We also use fans to blow the warm air throughout the orchard,
garden, or vineyard.

When to Plant

2009-11-04T04:03:00.000-08:00

You can plant your cool weather crops when there is no longer a
danger of a hard frost and most days are above 50 Fahrenheit. You
might need to cover once or twice.

Tender plants like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant should not be put
out until the average last frost date.

And very tender plants need to wait until all danger of frost is
past, days are warm, the soil has warmed up, and nights no longer get
really cold.

Always harden off your transplants in the pots before transplanting
by setting them outside for at least 2 days.

If you have clean manure you need to make use of, it is definitely
best to put it in the ground several weeks or months before
planting. Putting it in fresh puts you at risk of burning your
tender plants and emerging seedlings.

What is the Mittleider Method of sustainable organic gardening?

2009-11-03T08:19:00.000-08:00

The Mittleider Method combines the best features of soil-based gardening and hydroponic gardening, but without hydroponic expense! It's a complete, easy-to-follow plan that eliminates guesswork and ensures success anywhere: an apartment patio, a city yard, a country lot, or a farm.

The method is based on maximum utilization of space, time, and resources. Crops are large because plants are close together, nourished by supplemental feedings of natural mineral nutrients (as in hydroponics), but with no special equipment.

Also, unlike hydroponics, the Mittleider Method gives plants access to the natural soil for nutrients as yet unknown or that, while not essential to plant growth, are useful in human nutrition. You can use the Mittleider Method by raising crops in either soil-beds or grow-boxes.

Custom made soil

2009-11-02T06:23:00.001-08:00

Q. In the past I have purchased bags of potting soil, cut out a portion and planted right in the bag in my little greenhouse. However the plants that I have transplanted a week or so ago in the custom made soil are doing really well. I made it with sawdust and washed sand. I would like to replace the bags with custom made soil in pots placed in plastic flats on the benches in the green house but I would like a lighter mix. Can I make it with peat moss or sawdust, perlite and vermiculite? I would also use this for seed starting.

A. We recommend any of several combinations of materials for your potting soil for seedling production. Normally we encourage people to find the items that are available and inexpensive - and in some countries that may include rice hulls and/or ground coconut husks, or even coffee hulls.

In America, sawdust is often the least costly available material, so it is first on our recommended list.

Peat moss and perlite are also excellent materials. Vermiculite is okay, but doesn't last as long as the others. We like sand as a part of the mix, to improve the drainage characteristics of the mix, and normally recommend 25-35% sand, along with any combination of the other materials you prefer.

Perlite and vermiculite can replace the sand if you prefer, but I personally would always include some sand in my mix - even if it is less than 25%.

When to start seedlings?

2009-11-01T07:02:00.001-08:00

Garden Wizard and Garden Master CD's have

When to start seedlings is an important question - no matter where you live,
and the answer is always the same - "When they won't freeze!" So when is
that? It depends on the plant and your weather. First find out the average
last frost date in your local growing micro-climate. The Garden Wizard and
Garden Master CD's do a good job of giving you that for over 3,000 places
in the United States. Others will have to ask your local government Ag.
Extension agent.

Next, determine the frost tolerance of the plant you're growing, to know
when to transplant into the garden. There are 4 levels of frost tolerance -
and I quote from the Mittleider Gardening Course:
1. Hardy plants tolerate frost and cold and can be planted 3 to 6 weeks
before the average date of last frost.
2. Moderately-hardy plants handle a certain amount of cold. Plant these
2-3 weeks before the average date of last frost.
3. Cold- and frost-sensitive plants don't like cold or frost. Plant them
on the average day of last frost and protect them against late
frost.
4. Frost-intolerant plants will not survive any frost and must be
planted 2-3 weeks after the average day of last frost.

With dozens of plant possibilities, I can't tell you here what each plant's
frost tolerance is, but again the Garden Wizard and the Garden Master CD's
give you all of that.

And finally, you need to know how long your plant needs to be in the
greenhouse before being transplanted, in order to get back to the date on
which you plant in the greenhouse. And again I refer you to the Garden
Wizard and Garden Master CD's as the best place to find that information.
Remove the uncertainty and confusion in this very important step by looking
in the Preview Plants section of the Garden Designer. You will learn the
number of days required from planting seeds to transplanting in the garden,
for all the common garden vegetables.

Harvesting and storing Winter Squash

2009-10-31T18:40:00.000-07:00

Harvest winter squash when the skin is hard and will not break under
thumbnail pressure. Appearance tends to be dull, rather than bright like
the summer squash at harvest-time. Spaghetti squash should be a golden
yellow. Always harvest before the heavy frosts. Hazards of leaving the
fruit on the vine too long include foot-traffic damage, theft, bug, and
disease damage.

Leave a 2" stem on the fruit. Cure at room temperature (70-85 degrees F)
for 10+ days before long-term storing begins.

Only put squash that is firm, heavy, and free of blemishes in long-term
storage. Store at temperatures from 45-45 degrees, with 50-70% humidity.

Small squashes, like Butternut and Spaghetti will only store 2-3 months.
Banana and Hubbard squash will store as long as 5-6 months under ideal
conditions.

Good Harvesting!

Sorry. Storage should be at temparatures from 45 to 55 degrees farenheit,
and humidity of 50-75%.

Eliminating Weeds - How To Do It.

2009-10-29T04:00:00.000-07:00

Q. How do I eliminate weeds when just starting a garden?

A. I believe there is only one really effective way, without poisoning the ground (which is one way, of course).

Rake up all materials on the surface of the soil and remove them, until the soil is completely bare.

Take a round-headed shovel, and starting in one corner of your proposed new garden plot, turn over the soil, then break up the clods and remove all roots.

Continue doing this until you have used up your time and/or energy for the day.

Come back the next day and do it some more, until your time and energy coincides with your desires for a large garden.

When you have cleared and cleaned all the ground you physically can or are willing to either do yourself or hire done, that is your garden plot.

A small garden plot without weeds, and done using the Mittleider Method, will give you more vegetables with much less work and far more pleasure than a much larger plot that is poorly prepared.

Am I eating Vegetables - Or Fruits??

2009-10-28T06:39:00.000-07:00

Group:

I love my vegetable garden, and I suspect you enjoy yours too. We eat one or two meals a day from our garden, and my wife Araksya is an outstanding cook when it comes to using fresh garden produce.
Sometimes I'll look at a meal with 6 or 8 items from the garden and think how great it is to have such a wide variety of vegetables to eat.

But I was reminded last week that many things we consider vegetables are really fruits, botanically speaking! Let me give you a list of the items from a typical garden that are actually fruits, rather than vegetables - even though we eat them as the main part of the meal, rather than for dessert.

Are you ready for this? Garden fruits actually include Peppers, eggplant, pumpkin, squash, and tomatoes.

While I'm classifying things, let's distinguish some categories of vegetables, as well:

Leaf Crops - Those whose leaves we eat include basil, brussels sprouts, beet greens, cabbage, chard, cilantro, endive, kale, lettuce, mustard greens, onions, parsley, spinach, turnip greens, and watercress.

Root Crops - We eat the roots of beets, carrots, parsnips, radishes, rutabagas, sweet potatoes, and turnips. And we eat tubers of potatoes and yams.

Seed Crops - We eat the seeds of several kinds of beans, corn, peas, pumpkins, and sunflowers. And we eat the seed pods of chili peppers, green beans, okra, snap peas, snow peas, and wax beans.

Stem Crops - We eat the stems of asparagus, celery, leeks, green onions, and rhubarb.

Flower Crops - We even eat the flowers of artichokes, broccoli, and cauliflower. And in places like Japan people prize the squash flowers, and eat the petals - hopefully after they are pollinated.

Bulb Crops - Let's not forget the bulbs of onions and garlic - these are used more often in our own family garden cooking than just about anything else.

Did I forget to list your favorites? As you put your garden to bed for the winter, begin to plan now for the vegetables and fruit you want to grow and eat next spring.

Good Growing,

Jim Kennard

Composting For the Home Gardener

2009-10-27T09:51:00.000-07:00

Compost includes 4 basic elements including air, water, carbon, and nitrogen.

There are two types of composting, aerobic and anaerobic, meaning with oxygen and without.

Anaerobic composting (without air) is a cold process, takes as long as two years to produce usable compost, and DOES NOT remove soil pathogens, bugs, and weed seeds. This method is NOT recommended for the family garden for the reasons stated above, plus the fact that it creates an unsightly, smelly mess in your yard that attracts rodents, etc.

Regrettably, anaerobic composting is what 99% of family gardeners usually end up with, because of lack of education and/or effort.

Aerobic composting must sustain temperatures of approximately 140 degrees Fahrenheit for three weeks minimum, which kills most soil pathogens, bugs, and weed seeds. It requires a constant supply of air throughout the pile, in order to provide oxygen to the microbes that digest and thus decompose the raw materials into usable compost.

Therefore, the pile should be thoroughly turned daily, and if all other elements are present in the right proportions good compost can be created in as little as one month.

Water is also necessary, but not too much at one time. The pile should be moist - like a wrung-out sponge - but not wet.

Carbon is used as the energy source, and most of the pile should consist of carbon. Common high-carbon ingredients include dry leaves, straw, and corn stalks. High-carbon ingredients will contain more than 30 times as much carbon as nitrogen - sometimes MUCH more - and are often called "browns".

Nitrogen is needed for the proteins that build the microbes' bodies. Ingredients with the most nitrogen are usually green, moist plant matter such as leaves, or an animal by-product like manure. Nitrogen-rich materials - often called "greens" - usually will contain carbon and nitrogen in a ratio close to 20:1.

NEVER use manure from carnivores, and even cow manure sometimes contains e-coli, which can cause sickness and even death. Therefore, any manure should be used with extreme caution.

For efficient decomposition you need a carbon/nitrogen (C/N) ratio of about 30:1. If you have too much nitrogen your pile will smell, because the excess nitrogen converts into an ammonia gas. If there's too little nitrogen you will not sustain the necessary heat, plus the pile will break down very slowly.

Fresh grass clippings will have a C/N ratio of about 20:1, so mixing grass clippings and old leaves - one part clippings and two parts old leaves - will generally give you a good C/N ratio.

Unless it's contained in a Compost Tumbler or other container in which it can be turned easily while retaining the heat, you should start with a compost pile of at least 1 cubic yard, in order to have sufficient material to retain the necessary 140 degree heat for 3+ weeks.

Do it right, and you can have material that will improve your soil tilth, and even provide some (unknown) amount of nutrition for your plants.

Or save yourself the time and effort and give your plants a balance diet of natural mineral nutrients, as contained in the Mittleider Pre-Plant and Weekly Feed mixes, which you can mix yourself from materials purchased at your nursery or farm supply store.

Watering and supporting tomatoes

2009-10-26T06:15:00.001-07:00

I'm glad you are watering. If you put ridges up a few inches from the plant stems, you enclose the water, and much more gets to the roots. It's almost impossible to over-water tomatoes in this hot weather.

Many people have the idea that to get your fruit to ripen faster, you should withhold water. That will, indeed ripen the fruit that is already close, because the plant is trying desperately to fulfil its destiny by leaving some viable seeds, before it dies from lack of water. But it will not continue to produce and grow more tomatoes in that situation, so you greatly limit your yield by reducing the water.

Regarding the plants falling over in the wind, without seeing them, I may not be a great deal of assistance. Do you have Stakes supporting the cages now? If you don't, I would get several 8'-long 2X2's, sharpen one end, and get help driving them into the ground 15-18" at least - and attached to the cages to support them and keep them from blowing over.

If you're already using 2X2's and they aren't strong enough, try it with 2X4's.

Determinate vs Indeterminate?

2009-10-25T16:52:00.001-07:00

Determinate tomatoes do not grow tall, and they have a pre-determined growth cycle, generally with a harvest period of 1-2 months. They are close to the ground, and should be staked up to keep the fruit off the ground. If you don't want lots of tomatoes over the entire growing season and/or if you don't want to expend effort in caring for your plants, then determinate is your choice.

Indeterminate plants will continue to grow longer and longer, taller and taller, until frost kills them. For maximum yield in a given space we recommend growing them vertically by staking or guiding up a string using T-Frames. This requires some cost and effort in pruning, but the result is a thing of beauty, and your yield of healthy fruit is magnified greatly. Pictures on the MittleiderMethodGardening@yahoogroups.com group website include indeterminate tomatoes grown in outside as well as in a greenhouse.

Garden Disease Prevention and Control

2009-10-25T10:46:00.000-07:00

Downy Mildew - Prevention and Control
Q. This winter I am growing cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli in the same raised bed with a row cover. The cabbage and broccoli are doing beautifully but the cauliflower develops mold(?) on the heads before they are fully grown. The leaves are large, green and healthy; and when I pull the plant out of the ground the roots also look healthy. Are the row covers keeping in too much moisture or are the plants developing a disease?

A. Yes to both questions, and the cabbage and broccoli won't be far behind the cauliflower in showing symptoms. However, before I address the specific problem you describe, let me say for all group members' benefit, that we encourage gardeners to minimize pests and disease by several important "cultural practices." These include:
1) maintaining a totally weed-free garden with wide, dry aisles,
2) pruning leaves off the ground,
3) watering only at the soil level (never sprinkling) and only in the actual root area,
4) growing seedlings in a protected environment and transplanting stocky, healthy seedlings into the garden,
5) feeding plants a complete, balanced natural mineral nutrient mix that encourages healthy, rapid growth,
6) if using row covers or "mini greenhouses," open the ends on cool days (50+), and set the covers to one side on warm days (70), to maximize sunlight and circulation, and reduce excess humidity build-up.
7) harvesting as soon as plants are mature.
By following these procedures your problems with pests and disease will be rare.
You may have been doing all of these things, and only the increased humidity and warmth of the row covers could have given the disease an opening.

You are probably experiencing Downy Mildew, a fungus disease. General symptoms for all affected vegetable crops, which usually happen under high-humidity conditions, include spots appearing on leaves and a downy white or grey mold developing in these spots or on the undersides of the leaves opposite these spots.
With broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, and Brussels sprouts, dark spots may develop on the heads as well as the leaves. Black streaks may be visible on stems and a white fuzzy growth may develop. Seedlings are especially affected.

The best solutions are preventative, and constitute physical controls, such as I have described above. Also, it's important to rake up and burn fallen leaves.
Now that you have the problem, if it is not too widespread, I recommend you remove all affected plants immediately and improve the physical conditions as much as possible.

Biological control is your last option, short of removing the entire crop. Several chemicals are sold to control downy mildew, including Benomyl, Copper, Folpet, Lime Sulfur, Sulfur and chlorothalonil. Counsel with the store from which you obtain any of these materials, and always, when using pesticides, read the entire label on the container and follow the directions. Because mildew will built up a resistance to fungicides over time, especially Benomyl, if the problem persists you will need to consider changing the materials used occasionally.

Gardening to Produce Food For Everyone

2009-10-24T12:26:00.000-07:00

My name is Jim Kennard, and as President of the Food For Everyone Foundation I am excited to help in fulfilling the foundation's mission of "teaching the world to grow food one family at a time."

The first way we do this is by providing a wealth of free vegetable gardening information, training, tips, and advice on the internet at www.foodforeveryone.org. People from all over the world log on here to receive free training and advice, as well as to obtain the great gardening books, CDs and software written by Dr. Jacob R. Mittleider, some of which were created in collaboration with several BYU PhDs and Professors of Educational Psychology and Technology.

The Mittleider Gardening Basics Course ebook is free on the website at www.foodforeveryone.org/learn. The book-length FAQ section also has over 500 short gardening articles, which answer people's questions and give advice on many important vegetable gardening subjects.

In addition we have free greenhouse plans and free plans for automating your garden watering system, as well as a free gardening group where you can share knowledge and experience with thousands of successful vegetable gardeners.

I'll briefly introduce you to the Foundation's gardening methods by describing a few things about the Mittleider Method that are important, and which distinguish it from other gardening methods.

Most of the time our gardens are grown right in the native soil, with no amendments. We promise you "a great garden in any soil, in almost any climate". From straight sand to the worst clay, we'll show you how to have success growing healthy, delicious vegetables the first time and every time. The picture is Jan & Gretchen Graf’s first ever garden West of Santa Clara, Utah in blow-sand. It was a great success.

Grow-Boxes, or containers are sometimes needed for people living in apartments, and for disabled people. Container gardening can be just as effective as growing in the soil. Three of Dr. Mittleider's 10 books are dedicated to the unique features of the container gardening process, and for the next 5 days I will send a copy of the Digital version of Gardening by the Foot to all who request it from me at jim@growfood.com.

The Mittleider Method is sometimes called "the poor man's hydroponic system", because we use some of the principles and procedures of greenhouse growers, such as
1. Vertical growing,
2. Allowing NO weeds,
3. Watering often with small amounts of water,
4. Feeding the plants accurately throughout their growing cycle with natural mineral nutrients, and
5. Controlling temperature extremes, thus extending the growing season in both the spring and fall.

The Second major element in the Foundation's mission is teaching, training, and assisting people directly. One way we do this in America is by conducting free ½-day group gardening seminars. These can be arranged by contacting me by email at jim@growfood.com.

We also conduct humanitarian projects in countries throughout the world. In 2002 I was in Turkey and Madagascar for the Church. Every year since 2004 we have spent time in Armenia. In 2007 and 2008 we were also in the Republic of Georgia, and in 2007-2008 we were on a University campus in Colombia for several months – again for the Church. Everywhere we’ve been we grow many kinds of vegetables the locals thought couldn't possibly be grown in "their region", and we try to leave people in place to be the local “experts” to carry on and expand the work.

Another way in which we extend our reach is to train others who are becoming missionaries. One example is Howard and Glenice Morgan from Southern California, who recently returned from a 2-year LDS mission to Zimbabwe. They were sent to teach Mittleider gardening to Church members throughout the country, and they did a FABULOUS job.

They prepared by studying the Mittleider gardening books. Then, after some training in my garden adjacent to Utah's Hogle Zoo, and using only the simple 6 Steps to Successful Gardening book, the Morgans created 84 large “community” gardens in 4 countries, and taught over 10,500 people to feed themselves by growing their own healthy vegetables.

And Howard and Glenice thanked me for helping them have the time of their lives! Howard was a retired dentist, by the way, with very little previous experience in gardening.

So, whatever level you are currently on, you too can experience this kind of success – whether it's in your own home garden, a community effort, or as a humanitarian missionary in some distant country.

Join us as we teach people how there can be “food for everyone”, and learn to produce the best gardens of your life.

Jim Kennard

Heat treating tomato seeds to avoid diseases

2009-10-23T15:08:00.000-07:00

For those who are interested in saving and using seeds from your own garden, or who receive seeds from non-guaranteed sources - here's how we heat-treat tomato seed to kill diseases. Remember, however, that hybrid seeds most likely will not produce the same fruit as the parent plant did. If you want seeds that hold true to their parents you must use open-pollinated, or heirloom seeds.

First, place seeds, along with the natural juices surrounding them, in a bowl or bottle. Place the bottle in a warm place out of the sunlight. Allow to ferment for 5-7 days (the time can vary, depending on conditions). Once the gelatin has broken down from around the seeds, you may proceed to the next step. Pour off all materials other than the seeds. Rinse the seeds gently in fresh water until they are clean - being careful not to wash them down the drain!

After you have fermented the seed and cleaned it, and (preferably) before drying, place seeds in the toe of a pantyhose. Fill a bowl or pan with hot water from the kitchen tap. Using a candy thermometer, adjust the water temperature to 130 degrees Fahrenheit, with more water - cold or hot. Place pantyhose with seeds in water, moving gently to assure even distribution of water over all seeds. Add hot water to bring temperature back up to 130 degrees. Continue the gentle seed movement and maintain temperature at 130 degrees for 30 minutes. Do not allow the temperature to vary more than a degree either side of 130. Less than 130 degrees will not kill diseases, and more than 130 for any length of time will kill the seed.

Remove seeds from water. Spread thinly on a paper towel in a warm dry place. Allow to dry. When completely dry, place in a storage container with appropriate labeling. Do not return seeds to the container they were in before the heat treatment, but use a clean container.

While heat treatment will reduce germination by 10-20%, it is the weakest seeds that are lost, and the reduction in diseases is well worth the effort.

Composting For the Home Gardener

2009-10-23T04:20:00.000-07:00

Safe Wood Treatment for Vegetable Grow-Boxes

2009-10-22T04:03:00.000-07:00

Some have worried about using treated lumber to make their Grow-Boxes because of warnings about harmful materials in store-bought treated lumber.
Following is a recommended treatment you can apply yourselves to untreated lumber. This comes from an article in a recent Organic Gardening magazine, for which we thank them.

• "Melt 1 ounce of paraffin wax in a double boiler. DO NOT heat over a direct flame (that's a great way to start a fire).
• Off to the side, carefully place slightly less than a gallon of solvent (mineral spirits, paint thinner or turpentine at room temperature) in a bucket, then slowly pour in the melted paraffin, stirring vigorously.
• Add 3 cups exterior varnish or 1.5 cups boiled linseed oil to the mix, stirring until the ingredients are blended. When it cools, you can dip your lumber into this mixture or brush it onto the wood."

This should give you several years' extended life for your Grow-Boxes.

The other alternative, as I have suggested previously, is to paint them with a good exterior paint – preferably acrylic. The boxes in Dr. Mittleider's back-yard garden were in use for 25 years.

Introducing the Best Gardening Methods on the Planet

2009-10-21T09:54:00.000-07:00

My name is Jim Kennard, and as President of the Food For Everyone
Foundation I am excited to help in fulfilling the foundation's
mission of "teaching the world to grow food one family at a time."

We do this by providing a wealth of free vegetable gardening
information, training, tips, and advice on the internet at
www.foodforeveryone .org. People from all over the world come here
to receive free training and advice, as well as to obtain the great
gardening books, CDs and software written by Dr. Jacob R.
Mittleider.

The Mittleider Gardening Basics Course ebook is free on the
website. The book-length FAQ section also has 365 short gardening
articles, which answer people's questions and give advice on many
vegetable gardening subjects.

In addition we have free greenhouse plans and free plans for
automating your garden watering system, as well as a free gardening
group where you can share knowledge and experience with thousands of
successful vegetable gardeners.

I'll briefly introduce you to the Foundation's gardening methods by
describing a few things about the Mittleider Method that are
important, and which distinguish it from other gardening methods.

Most of the time our gardens are grown right in the native soil,
with no amendments. We promise you "a great garden in any soil, in
almost any climate". From straight sand to the worst clay, we'll
show you how to have success growing healthy, delicious vegetables
the first time and every time.

Grow-Boxes, or containers are sometimes needed for people living in
apartments, and for disabled people. Container gardening can be
just as effective as growing in the soil, and 2 ½ of Dr.
Mittleider's 10 books are dedicated to the unique features of the
container gardening process.

The Mittleider Method is sometimes called "the poor man's hydroponic
system", because we use some of the principles and procedures of
greenhouse growers, such as vertical growing, feeding the plants
accurately throughout their growing cycle with natural mineral
nutrients, and sometimes extending the growing season in both the
spring and fall.

The Second major element in the Foundation's mission is teaching,
training, and assisting people directly. One way we do this in
America is by conducting free ½-day group gardening seminars. These
can be arranged by contacting me by email at jim@growfood. com.

We also conduct humanitarian projects in many countries throughout
the world. In 2006 I went to Armenia with my wife Araksya and spent
5 months - from February to mid July. We created a gardening
training center in the village of Getk, with housing, classroom,
greenhouse, and 3/4 acre garden. We taught students, who became the
gardening experts in their own villages, and we assisted them in
working with about 200 families in those villages. We left the
training center and garden in the able hands of an Armenian couple,
and expect the work will continue there, with our occasional visits.

In Armenia, as in other places we've worked, we grew many kinds of
vegetables the locals thought couldn't possibly be grown in "their
region", and often had many non-participating village families
coming to our garden for advice, coaching, and free produce.

Another way in which we extend our reach is to train others who are
becoming missionaries for their churches. One example is Howard and
Glenice Morgan, from Southern California, who just returned from a 2-
year mission to Zimbabwe. They were sent to teach Mittleider
gardening to their church members throughout the country, and they
did a FABULOUS job.

They prepared by studying the Mittleider gardening books. Then,
after some training in my garden at Utah's Hogle Zoo, and using only
the simple 6 Steps to Successful Gardening, the Morgans created 84
large gardens and taught over 10,500 people to feed themselves by
growing their own healthy vegetables.

And Howard and Glenice thanked me for helping them have the time of
their lives! Howard was a retired dentist, by the way, with very
little previous experience in gardening.

So, whatever level you are currently on, you too can experience this
kind of success – whether it's in your own home garden, a community
effort, or as a humanitarian missionary in some distant country.

Join us as a Mittleider Method gardener, for the best gardens of
your life.

Jim Kennard

All about the Mittleider Organic Gardening Program

2009-10-20T06:51:00.000-07:00

Welcome to the Mittleider Gardening Program. It is a proven, efficient, High-yield method with a 100 percent record of success in growing vegetables and field crops for 39 years, in 29 countries and 77 separate demonstrations around the world. This booklet is a capsule form of the procedures:

Part I - General Information:
1. Soil is soil, whether sand, calcareous, clay, adobe, gravely, rocks, peat, no red worms, no humus, etc. Land quality is not a major concern.

2. There are only two kinds that cannot be used:
A. Soils in or under standing water.
B. Toxic soils, meaning they contain high levels of toxic chemicals. Examples: boron, aluminum, sodium, etc.

3. Nearly all soils available to gardeners are poor, hard, or rocks, and devoid of humus and red worms.

4. If this is the picture of your soil you have nothing to fear. Follow the simple outlines that follow and you will be rewarded with the healthiest, tastiest produce that can be grown.

5. No previous gardening experience is necessary. If you have only rocks, then study the information on Grow-Boxes. Yes you can grow vegetables on rocks.

6. If you have land (dirt), whether good or bad, study the information on Soil-Beds. You can use the very poorest ground just as it is - no amendments are needed.

7. Plants, like people, need 16 nutrients. Three (carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen) come from the air. Thirteen can be regulated by man. A complete nutrient mix, containing all thirteen nutrients, has been developed and is available in many places as Mittleider Magic Weekly Feed. Giving your plants all the essential nutrients will let you grow a great garden in any soil, in any climate, with a minimum of cost and effort per unit of production, simply by following the instructions below.

8. Materials list - String, hammer, pick axe, stakes (4/bed), shovel, 12" rake, scuffle hoe, spirit level, fertilizers (Mittleider Magic or Part III (5)(E) & Part VIII.

Part II - Soil Bed Gardening:

1. Soil Beds are narrow strips of land (dirt).

2. A standard size is 18" wide, 30' long. The length can vary, according to the slope of the land, or the size of your property, but the width should not vary. The aisles between the beds are 3 ½' wide.

3. The Soil Beds have ridges on both sides and a flat area 10" to 12" wide at the base (bottom) between the ridges.

4. The Soil Beds should be level and the ends of the beds are closed off to hold water in the narrow strip. However, in high rainfall areas the ends must be open for drainage.

5. Plants and/or seeds are planted on both sides of the 10" to 12" flat area.
6. Water is channeled along the base of the ridges between the two rows of plants.

7. There are two rows of most varieties of vegetables planted in each Soil-Bed. But cucumbers, tomatoes, melons, pole beans, and squash have only one row in a bed.

8. Plants are living things and need living space. Therefore, the space between plants varies from 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12, 14, and 21", depending on the variety (see seed packet,The Mittleider Gardening Course, or The Garden Master CD).

9. Granulated fertilizers are applied in a narrow band down the center of the bed where water is applied.

10. Some plants are natural climbers. Some others can be trained to grow vertically. Vertical growing has very specific advantages, including less space required and elimination of losses from insects, disease, and foot traffic.

Part III - Step By Step In Your Garden:

1. Choosing a garden plot:
A. Avoid trees, shade, shadows, strong winds, steep North slopes, low wet areas, etc.
B. Essential elements are sunlight (all day long if possible), drainage (gentle Southern slope is ideal), and adequate water.

2. Preparing the Plot:
Remove rocks, brush, annual and perennial weeds (dig up roots, rhizomes, and runners), and junk. Clear and haul away everything, down to the bare leveled ground. Install water supply to end of each Soil Bed. Enclose with good high fence.

3. Garden size:
Consider the amount of time available, the tools to use, whether hand tools or machines - roto-tiller, etc., the type of terrain - sloping or flat, and the size of your family. Only do what can be cared for comfortably and well. Measure, stake, and tie strings to define the garden perimeter.

4. Measure and stake the individual Soil Beds. The standard size bed is 18" wide, 30' long, with aisles between beds 3 ½', and aisles on the ends 5' wide.

5. Making the Soil Beds:
A. Tie two strings to the 4 stakes that outline the 18" wide Soil Beds.

B. With a common garden rake pull a little soil from the aisles (2-4"), on both sides, into the center of the 18" bed.

C. Flatten the ridge in the 18" bed.

D. Use a simple "Spirit-Level" attached to a straight 8' 2X2 board and level the Soil Bed. Do not level the aisles. To accomplish this, take soil from the high spots in the Soil Bed and put it on the low spots. If the slope is too steep to level, divide bed into 15' or even 10' sections. On steep hillsides shape and level beds along the contours of the slope.

E. Apply Pre-Plant nutrients evenly over the Soil Bed: Use Mittleider Magic Preplant Mix, or if unavailable, mix 5# lime (20+" annual rainfall) or gypsum, 4 oz Epsom Salt (Magnesium Sulfate), and 1 oz Borax (Boron). Spread 2# of above formula, along with 1# 16-8-16, 16-16-16, or 20-20-20 compound per 30' bed.

F. Preparing the seedbed: Remove strings. Til Soil Bed thoroughly to a depth of 8" with Roto-tiller, if available. Otherwise use a round-headed long handle shovel, and break up any clods with the rake. Do not spade or til the aisles. Re-tie strings to stakes. Rake tilled soil back into bed area.

G. Make a 4" high ridge along each string, using the soil in the Soil Bed. Start with a small ridge first by pulling a little soil from the center of the Soil Bed to the string. Repeat 2 or 3 times, until the ridge is 4" high, and the flat area at the base of the ridges is 10" to 12" wide. This area should be slightly higher than the aisles for proper drainage. Re-check level.

Part IV - Planting - choosing seeds or plants for transplanting:
With the previous steps accomplished, the beds are ready for plants or seeds. Before deciding whether to plant seed or to transplant sturdy seedlings, consider this fact: "Reducing the number of days it takes a plant to grow and mature is the surest way to reduce the hazards and risks that result in loss and failures."

Nearly all plants can be transplanted. The few exceptions are carrots, radishes, and parsnips. These should be grown from seed sown directly where they will mature.

Heat, light, and water are the determining factors when growing seedlings for transplanting. One way is the time-tested and proven method called "cold frame", which is the cheapest and will produce good plants several weeks ahead of the time it is safe to plant sensitive crops in the garden.

Part V - The Cold Frame (the size is typically 4' X 6' X 3' high - but this can vary):

1. Dig a hole in the ground 4' X 6', and 3' deep.

2. Fill the hole 2' deep with horse manure.

3. Cover the manure with 12" (one foot) of clean sandy-loam soil.

4. Construct a frost-proof frame to place on this soil, 3' high on the North side, and 2' high on the South side.

5. Cover the frame with fiberglass, heavy plastic, or glass.

6. Scatter seeds in narrow furrows (depressions) made in the sandy-loam soil. Cover with 1/4" of sand. Do not plant more than you have room to transplant.

7. Water immediately, and keep soil moist. The manure will warm the soil and sprout the seed.

8. Transplant the seedlings after they have grown the first one or two pairs of true leaves.

9. Mark the soil in the "cold frame" with a space of 2" to 4" between the marks.

10. Transplant one plant per mark.

11. Water plants daily, or as often as necessary, always with a dilute Weekly Feed fertilizer solution (1 oz to 3 gallons water). If Mittleider Magic Weekly Feed is not available, see part VIII for Weekly Feed formula.

12. When weather permits, lift or remove the lid to expose the plants to full sunlight and provide fresh air.

Part VI - Planting seed in Soil Beds:

1. Prepare the beds as outlined in Part III above.

2. Make 2 furrows the length of the bed, one on each side of the 12" flat area.

3. Mix 1 teaspoon seed with 16 ounce can of sand or sawdust. Take a small amount of mixture in hand and with swing motion, throw into length of furrow (fast and eliminates later thinning - plants 2 30' rows).

4. Cover seeds with course sand (preferred). avoid covering with clay soil.

5. Keep beds moist until seedlings appear, but do not float seeds to the surface.

6. Follow Part VII procedures (below), starting with #10.

Part VII - Transplanting plants in Soil Beds:

1. Prepare the beds as outlined in Part III above.

2. If water is available, transplanting can be done in dry or damp soil.

3. After deciding which variety to transplant, mark the beds to show the space between the plants.

4. Water the seedlings which are to be transplanted beforehand.

5. Avoid losing the soil on the plant roots when lifting and taking to the garden.

6. Use your hand or a trowel to make a hole at a mark. The hole should be large enough and deep enough to accommodate the plant roots and plant stem below the crown (the growing tip) comfortably.

7. Set the plant deep - down to the crown if possible; but avoid dirt on the crown, which will kill the plant.

8. Fill the hole with soil around the plant, and firm it lightly.

9. Do not pack the soil around the plant.

10. After planting a bed, promptly apply 8 ounces ammonium nitrate (34-0-0) fertilizer in a narrow band down the center of the bed.

11. Water thoroughly to wet and settle the loose soil and dissolve the nitrogen.

12. Three days later, apply 1 pound of Mittleider Magic Weekly Feed fertilizer (if not available, see Part VIII for mixing instructions). Water after each application.

13. Thereafter, apply 1 pound Weekly Feed fertilizer per bed once every seven days for 4 to 7 applications - depending on the variety of the crop.

Part VIII - The Weekly Feed fertilizer formula - when Mittleider Magic Weekly Feed complete nutrient mix is not available, mix your own from the formula in The Mittleider Gardening Course or other books. An adequate temporary formula follows. Mix together:
6 pounds compound 16-8-16, 16-16-16, 20-20-20, or something similar.
4 ounces Magnesium Sulfate (Epsom Salt).
1 teaspoon (5 grams) Boron (Borax).

Note: When more of this formula is needed, repeat the formula.
Also, mix only enough for a 5 to 6 weeks supply. The reason: several weeks after the materials are mixed together, they will become sticky and wet. This does not affect the fertilizers, but it is hard to spread and apply.

Transplanting radish, carrot, beets, etc. - and Corn

2009-10-19T06:43:00.000-07:00

Transplanting root crops like carrots and parsnips is not a good
idea for at least two reasons. The time and effort is not worth it,
when the value of the crop is so small. And the result is very
poor, since you can't transplant them without disturbing the
taproot, thus causing a stunted, twisted root.

Radishes and beets do not have the problem of the tap root being
messed up, and we will sometimes transplant beets with good
success. This can be important if something is eating them as they
emerge. Radishes, however, are not valuable enough to justify the
work. And they are among the very hardiest of crops, so they will
grow well from seed in early spring or late fall weather.

Corn can also be transplanted well, and that may be a good idea if
crows, etc are stealing the germinated seeds, or if rabbits or dear
eat the tiny seedlings.