Sewing Is Hard

Suitable for Stripes

2009-07-05T09:40:00.000-07:00

This fabric

This pattern

Despite being a modern pattern, and they always seem to give me trouble, this one was pretty darned easy to use. I purchased it in a 12 because modern patterns purchased in my own size/measurements (14) always end up being too large. This is despite the fact that according to the measurements on the envelope I should be a size 14. Oh well. At least I know.

I ignored the cutting directions because they didn’t include “with nap” and I needed to try and match the stripes (or at least have them all go in the same direction). I had reduce the skirt length by about 2 inches because my fabric wasn’t quite wide enough to cut out the skirt front on the fold.

I thought it was interesting that the instructions tell you to attach the bodice to the skirt before finishing the interfacing and straps. It made installing the zipper and straps pretty easy, but it was hard to tell how the dress would come out until it was basically finished. Again, if I had the patience/brainpower to figure out fit BEFORE cutting and stitching it wouldn’t be an issue.

I did some brief fittings of the bodice and skirt separately and increased/decreased the seam allowances as seemed appropriate. I was surprised that when I was finished, the dress actually fit pretty well. The length is perfect despite shortening it. My only complaint is that, I think because there are no side darts, the bodice is a bit baggy under my boobs. (The other modern sun-dress I made did the same thing.)

I had quite a bit of green fabric left over so I decided to make a little jacket to go with the dress. I used the bolero from this pattern.

It was super easy to whip up. I decided to make it reversible and, even though I've never made anything reversible before, it was pretty easy. I just made the jacket twice - once in a heavier white cotton, once in the green stripe. Then, instead of finishing the edges, I pinned both versions with the right sides together and stitched up the edges. I pulled it right side out through one of the sleeve holes...and it worked! Amazing! I wasn't sure how to finish the sleeves so I folded the raw edges back in on themselves and then top-stitched the ends together.

Here's the complete outfit with & without the jacket.

My only regret is that I didn't line the bodice. My bra shows through a bit more than I would like. I think at some point I may have to go back and line it.

Overall, I like the ensemble, although I do feel like a big piece of Fruit Stripe Gum.

---

Unrelated note: While searching for an image of Yipes, the Fruit Stripe Zebra, I found this. People love My Little Pony. Who knew?

Everything Old Is New Again

2009-06-26T17:17:00.000-07:00

More new patterns!

This time from Selmalee's Vintage on eBay. (She's got an etsy store too.) These are from the 60s and 70s but I see earlier eras in them, for sure.

* * *

The 60s shift dress is not my best look, I know. I am a short and chunky hourglass so I need things to FIT. That said, I think Simplicity 6004 might be a good potential Gatsby dress. If it was longer and made of silk or jersey, maybe? Imagine it with a little cloche hat and t-strap shoes... It might be just 20s enough.

* * *

Simplicity 5803, I think, has a late 30s/early 40s look. View 1 would make a nice bodice for a 30's style shirtwaist dress if I frankensteined with the long version of my TAT pencil skirt pattern. Its those gorgeous flutter sleeves that make me think '30s. They are murder! Murder, I say!

View 2 will replace a beloved blouse I bought years ago at H&M specifically for its vintage styling. Finding a similar pattern beats the heck out of trying to take it apart and copy it! This pattern would be better if it had a collar but I think its close enough to work as a replacement. I wonder how hard it is to make/install a shirt collar...?

* * *

Simplicity 5112 also looks 30s/40s to me. I think it could easily work as part of a lounge set. I'd make it in a tropical print with either shorts or a slim wrap skirt to match. Or, it would be cute in shiny creme or navy satin paired with matching wide legged trousers, or in crisp white cotton with red or blue sailor pants.

* * *

Its so fun to imagine what one could do with newly purchased patterns. I think at this point I could sew for a zillion years and still not use every pattern in my stash. Even so, I love to fantasize about what to do with the new ones. The fantasizing is as much fun as the sewing, especially when you can see so many past style influences in each relatively modern piece.

Home Dec II

2009-06-18T07:33:00.000-07:00

After our success with recovering the dining room chairs, I decided it was time to do something about our hideous bed. My husband bought a modern farmhouse style bed from Craigslist about a year before we got married. I hated it and was hoping it would go away when we combined our possessions but it was not to be.

When we moved in together we needed a new mattress because mine was too short for him and his was like sleeping in a bowl of pudding. (I prefer to sleep on something a great deal harder than pudding.) The larger mattress was, sadly, too big to fit with my (gorgeous, family heirloom, mid-century modern) headboard and since we spent a zillion dollars on the mattress, it didn’t make sense to buy a new bed right away. So we kept his and I silently hated it until I figured out how to make it less ugly.

Here is the before photo so you can see what I mean.

It’s bright and cheerful and piney. It’s also killing my soul with its perkiness and complete lack of character. I wanted something much darker and more modern. I wanted to cast the country farmhouse demons out of my bedroom. We decided that the fastest and easiest way to do that would be with dark brown paint and a padded headboard.

I realize that home décor is much more interesting if you take pictures of the process, but I forgot. SORRY! (I will attempt to make up for it by posting way too many "after" pictures.)

Because we are lazy, we decided not to strip the original stain from the bed. Instead we bought a gallon of exterior house paint and had it colored to match the wrapper from a chocolate bar. Exterior latex paint is basically a plastic coating so it sticks better than typical indoor paint. The only prep work we did was clean the dust and grime off of the frame, rub it down with TSP and let it dry for a few hours before we painted. I think we put on two coats of paint (maybe three on the head and foot sections) and let it dry overnight.

Husband went to the local hardware store and had a piece of plywood cut as a backing for the pad. It was cut about an inch smaller all round than the open space in the headboard so that the pad would float. We bought a rectangular piece of scrap foam from a local furniture dealer and used it as padding. I bought one yard of crème colored upholstery fabric with light brown grid pattern from fabric.com. Unfortunately, one yard wasn’t quite long enough so I had to cut the panel it in the center and stitch the ends together to make it work. I probably should have put a line of cording in between the cut ends because it would have looked nicer, but I’m lazy, remember?

Husband used his mad art school skills to stretch the fabric over the foam and staple it to the plywood so that all of the lines were straight. (I'm sure he'd appreciate it if I told you that I made him do it TWICE because the first time the center line was off my about 1/4 of an inch and was driving me crazy. He is a good man.) Once the cover was stapled on, he simply screwed it to the original headboard. I think you’ll agree that the new bed is a vast improvement!

Here it is “styled.” (Which means I moved all the dirty clothes and cat toys to the floor.)

Here is a closer look at the headboard.

And here’s an even closer one so you can see my lovely seam down the center.

New Pattern - Headgear

2009-06-11T18:07:00.000-07:00

Yeah, its ugly, but I think I want to learn how to make hats. An ugly but simple pattern seems like a good place to start. Right? Vintage hat patterns seem to be as rare as hen's teeth these days. (I have one or two but I'm afraid to cut them.) If I ruin this one, it's no big deal ... so I bought it.

It looked less ugly on EBay, I swear. But I still plan to make it. I don't have any appropriate fabric in the stash but the next time I go to Joann, I'll look for something cute and stretchy/fleecy. Probably not leopard though.

Someday, I'd like to learn to make stiff hats with buckram frames or straw bodies. SCARY! Anyone out there routinely make hats? Any tips and tricks? What is the best way to start? Know of any good hat blogs?

More Fabric

2009-06-05T07:37:00.000-07:00

I was all set to start sewing from my stash, but I needed to get some boning for a bodice. It was a Sunday so my usual fabric store was closed. That meant a trip to Joanne’s ... where I bought 8 more yards of fabric. The Tutti Frutti seersucker was on sale for 1.99/yard. I was unable to pass it up. I blame Joanne's.

I bought this lime stripe.

And this blue dot.

Yep: More sundresses to be worn in the cold and wet of Fogville. When will I ever learn?

Here is some tutti frutti music for your listening pleasure.

Little Richard
and
Pat Boone

New Black Skirt

2009-05-21T07:20:00.000-07:00

I needed a new black skirt for Viva Las Vegas, so I decided to try out this pattern. I bought it to replace an early 50s pattern that I love but is too small. (More on that here.) I used View C.

Damn, this was easy to put together. Two pattern pieces, the skirt and band, no darts. Shabam! Done!

I didn't care for the cutting diagram. The diagram suggested cutting out each piece on an open length of fabric. Instead, I folded the fabric and cut once. It didn't seem to make any difference.

My only problem was that, as usual with a more modern pattern, there was entirely too much ease. Stitching at the seam lines, I ended up with a garment that was waaaay too big. I did my usual "increase the seam allowance" trick, taking it in about .5 an inch at a time. After three rounds or so, the fit was a lot better, but still a big big in the waist. Someday, I'm going to have the patience to figure this stuff out BEFORE I cut.

Maybe.

I attached the waistband incorrectly. I started right sides together and then folded it inward instead of vice-versa. It worked SO much better, though. I did that "stitch in the ditch" thing on the right side and, for once, I was able to catch the opposite side in the stitches all the way across. This was a vast improvement and the way I will be attaching waistbands from now on, no matter what the instructions say.

I hate hemming. Even though the blind hem foot makes it pretty easy, sometimes I don't have the energy to fold and press. (If you've ever read this blog before, you know am exceptionally lazy.) I used the rolled hem foot this time, and I think its okay. It makes the bottom a bit flippedy-floopy, but I don't mind.

I think this skirt came out really well. I may shorten the hemline (and hem it properly) at some point but for right now, I'm really happy with it.

Here it is, styled as it was worn at Viva. I do wish I had a picture of it from Viva. It would be a lot more exciting than my kitchen, but I am not much of a picture taker when I'm on vacation.

I have a thing for skirts.

2009-05-14T17:00:00.000-07:00

I am always enticed by skirt patterns and I'm developing quite a collection. I have this fantasy that if I make enough skirts, I'll stop wearing jeans and a cardigan to work every day in favor of a skirt and ... probably a cardigan. That would be much more chic and much more in keeping with my fantasy image of myself. Which is something like this:

(Photo borrowed from the LIFE photo archive.)

Of course, I'd be loads more likely to dress nicely for work if Fogville was less foggy and windy ALL THE TIME. That's probably not going to change unless global warming kicks into high gear, which would be bad...

But then I could occasionally leave the house without five layers of extra clothes "just in case", which would be good. It's all about the give and take, people

I found these two "instant skirt" patterns at Vintage Jubilee over at Etsy. They are made with just one yard of fabric and seem pretty versatile.

It probably it seems silly that I bought two of the same pattern in different sizes. I'm just never quite sure how the ease thing is going to work. Sometimes a 26" waist fits fine and sometimes it's way too small. Sometimes a 28" waist is great, other times it's too big. I just never know, despite the fact that my body measurements never seem to change.

It looks like there is just one seam so my big plan for these patterns would be a skirt made from a "scary" fabric like plaid. I am terrified of matching plaids. These will also be useful for any fabric that I was reluctant to cut. Like, if I was lucky enough to find a kitchy vintage fabric panel or child's curtain like Miss Tiddlywink over at Shoes and Pie. Sublime!

What would you do with an "instant skirt" pattern?

New Fabric

2009-05-07T07:01:00.000-07:00

New fabric from Fabric.com. To think there was once a time when I was anti-stash! Muhuhahahahah!

This satiny silky flower fabric is lovely...and posesses all of the things that terrify me about fabric. It's slippery and delicate and very very scary! I want this to be a big floaty-skirted evening gown but I'd settle for a big floaty-skirted day dress. I think deserve a dress that is not made of quilting cotton! Now if only I could get over my fear of sewing with slickery fabric...and of the pattern below, which I think would be perfect for this.

I think this green dot would make a nice suit. I'd use the sleeveless, narrow skirted version of the pattern below and I'd make a 3/4 sleeve, waist length, reversable jacket lined in white. I'd accessorize it with short white gloves and a perky white cocktail hat. Quick, someone invite me to a wedding so I'll have somewhere to wear it!

I think this yellow flowered cotton would make a great day dress with wide kimono sleeves. I think that either version of the pattern below would be super. I'd use bright yellow baby blanket binding on the sleeve edges and the hemline. Sunny fun!

A Pyrates Life for Me

2009-04-30T07:30:00.000-07:00

Inspired by this fabric

...and the pattern my dear friend Katie chose for her bridesmaids.

Right after she showed it to me I went on eBay and found a copy for myself. It’s what pirates (and obsessive sewists) DO. But I have NO intention of wearing this to her wedding. Buying and making a dress from the same pattern: justifiable. Wearing the same dress as the bridesmaids: psycho.

I bought black broadcloth to use for the contrast straps and the jacket body and some (almost) matching red broadcloth for the jacket trim. Ready, set, sew!

I read and re-read everything BEFORE I started this time. Since there was an inch and a half of ease in the 14, I decided to go one size down on the bodice. I pinned it together and it fit pretty well. Hooray! I think I’m getting the hang of this sewing nonsense!

Not so fast matey! Here be troubles. Yes, indeedy.

It took me a full five days of reading and experimentation to figure out the straps. Once I got them sewn on properly, I decided that the black was just too overpowering and I’d be better off making the dress without contrast. I also didn’t like the way that the black straps would have disappeared into the red bodice back.

This gave me a bright idea! Why not just use the already cut bits to make a non-contrasty full skirted dress in just the pirate fabric? Then I could use the already assembled red bodice front with black straps to make a narrow skirted version with a black skirt and black bodice back?

So now I’m making two dresses at the same time and I need more black fabric. Isn’t it neat how I can make something that is already difficult into a three ring circus of confusion? It’s what I do. I am awesome.

I worked on the contrast version with the narrow skirt first. I was surprised at how quickly the bodice went together once I figured out the straps. There was still some extra room in the size 12 so I tried the top on after each seam just to see how well it was fitting. I ended up taking it in quite a bit. I also took about 2.5 inches off of the bottom of the bodice in order to raise the waistline up to my natural (weirdly high) waist.

I used my TAT skirt pattern but this time decided to line it because the broadcloth seemed a little thin and cheap looking. (This was actually my first experience with lining a skirt, but everything in the blog gets a little un-chronological depending on what's been photographed and what hasn't...anyway...) I cut the skirt out of the black broadcloth and then cut it out again in the lining. I constructed both sections following the skirt directions and then put them together with the wrong sides together. Then I basted the top edge and zipper openings together.

The skirt lining ended up a little smaller than the skirt but I couldn’t tell that until I tried to attach the bodice and skirt. I had to let out the darts in the lining and then re-baste everything before attaching the top and bottom pieces. It worked out really well though.

I hemmed the skirt and then hemmed the lining about an inch shorter. Figuring out the kick pleat was really difficult with all the layers of fabric but it eventually came out just fine.

The dress fits like a dream. I love the bright red panel in all that black and I think it’s really flattering.

Here it is from the back.

I eventually decided that I’d been wrong about black contrast straps overpowering the red fabric and went with my original plan for the full skirted version. For some reason this version doesn’t fit as well as the narrow skirted. It seemed like the bodice was too small so I let it out a bit near the zipper and then it ended up kind of big. Despite hacking off two inches or so from the bodice bottom, the waistline is a little low. I do like it, but not nearly as well as the black one. Oh well.

I decided not to make jacket. I don't like the look of it that much and I think a black cardigan sweater will be fine with both dresses.

New Patterns

2009-04-23T07:08:00.000-07:00

I love thrift stores!

This one isn't my usual style (har har), but its so interesting. I couldn't pass it up. It is the mullet of evening dresses: business in the front, party in the back. I will make it as seen in the view with the cascading fringe. Then I will learn how to tango. Ole!

I have a thing for skirt patterns. I find them irrisistable. Odd, since I almost never wear skirts anymore. Maybe its because I've "outgrown" most of my favorites? I have a skirt in my closet thats just like View 2 but it's way too small these days. Now I can make a new one that fits. Screw dieting, I'll just make bigger clothes as I get fatter. Le sigh.

The truly sad thing is that when I picked these up, there were about 20 really cool vintage 1960s patterns, some mod shifts, some full skirted early 60s day dresses, but none of them were in my size. They were gorgeous and they hadn't been ravaged from being in the racks yet. I considered buying them, just to save them from being ruined but I am far to lazy to resell them and I already have too many patterns in my stash that are the wrong size. I hope that someone with a 40 bust came along after me and snapped them all up!

Cocktail Hat/Fascinator

2009-04-16T18:32:00.000-07:00

My friend Katie is getting married in May and her bridal shower was in Vegas during the Rockabilly Weekender. Katie is not the kind of girl who is comfortable with the idea of wandering down the Las Vegas strip with the "bride" tshirt on and a giant white veil stuck to her head. She doesn't like to call attention to herself. However, Angela, who was in charge of the shower, thought we should have some kind of identifier for which one of us was the bride. She asked if anyone could make a little hat and I volunteered.

You know, cos I make hats all the time.

Okay, I've never made a hat before. I think I did okay, though.

I bought two fascinator frames and some tulle from Hatshadows. Feathers were found on e-bay. Everything else came from Michael's. They have a special section for "bridal flowers" Who knew?

I think both hats came out pretty good considering my lack of experience and skill. Plus the fact that I have NO idea how to properly use a glue gun. The only thing that really gave me trouble was the tulle. It was difficult to glue it in a way that would hide the cut edges but leave enough length to let it curve around the face. Also, it tended to melt when it came in contact with the hot glue.

Here is the cocktail hat.

and here is the Fascinator.

I fully expected Katie to hate them but she didn't! She wore the cocktail hat all Saturday night and is planning to wear the fascinator for her East Coast shower. Success!

Pride Goeth Before a Sewing Failure

2009-04-03T12:28:00.000-07:00

I was a bridesmaid in my friends wedding, this past weekend. She is a sensible girl and decided to let her bridesmaids choose their own dresses. Hoooray! Her one parameter? Black. Just black. Sounds like it would be easy, right? Not for me.

I don’t know about you, but when left to my own devices with very few guidelines, I tend to let my sense of humor take over. I figured since this was a mod-ish wedding that started with a scooter ride I should go for something fabulous and vaguely mod-tacular. I very nearly wore this:

At the bridal shower, the other bridesmaid showed me the dress she picked out. It was lovely: Vaguely 60s. Simple. Black. Elegant. I asked her, “Why is it that without parameters I go crazy? I need parameters! Someone give me parameters!” She said, “How about no sequined mini dresses? How’s that for a parameter?”

And suddenly I was off the ledge and seriously thinking about what to wear. I decided to make something similar to what she’d picked out.

Her dress had a simple scoop neckline and a straight skirt. It was in a shiny fabric, but I am no good with shiny. I decided to use black cotton (surprise) with a little stretch.

I dug through my patterns to find something that would be close to the same style. I used this pattern for the top:

And my tried and true skirt for the bottom.

I am a very impatient sewist but I try to do a lot more thinking and planning when I’m trying to make a Franken-dress or something that is supposed to come out “nice.” It should have been so simple and so easy.

Instead, I foolishly decided that I knew what I was doing and I didn’t need to think/re-think/try on/alter/think some more/try on again. I just hacked and stitched and then was surprised at how poorly the result fit.

For the blouse pattern, I just folded the pattern over at the hip line and cut it out. My bodice came out about an inch too short…and I have a high waist.

For the skirt I slapped the skirt and lining together and then bunged it onto the bodice with only one brief fitting. I neglected to line up the lining seam with the skirt seam when I stitched the zipper in and once it was all sewn together I couldn’t open the zipper seam. I couldn’t be bothered to unstitch it, so I just cut through the lining to open the zipper thinking “Oh it’s all stitched down, It’ll be fine.” Result: furry and funky zipper, too tight lining, fabric bunching up over my butt in the back. (Click on the pic to "biggify" and see the bunchy horror.)

With a few foundation garments and a belt it was wearable. Thank heavens, because I had no time to refashion it. Besides, I’d ruined the lining and had no extra fabric left to re-line it with.

I’ve learned an important lesson: I should never assume that I know what I’m doing simply because I’ve done something similar before. I should always fit and re-fit and fit again. Also, I really need to remember that wanton seam ripping just makes everything worse.

Here I am all dressed up and ready to bridesmaid. (Yes, its a verb.)

A jump to black

2009-04-02T19:00:00.000-07:00

This pattern again.

Black ultrasuede this time, scoop neck, long sleeves.

What’s to say about construction that wasn’t said in the Apple Green Jumpsuit entry? Not much. The neckline is different but didn’t give me any trouble. I made a long sleeve using the pattern piece for this jumpsuit mated to the pattern piece for the purple jumpsuit. It worked really well.

I’m not ecstatic about the way it looks though.

Now that I’ve made two with the ultrasuede I think I can safely say that it may not be the best fabric for a jumpsuit. It is really super wonderfully comfortable, like pajama, but I’m not crazy about the drape.

Everywhere it’s tight, it's alright, but the legs are just too floopy. Maybe it would drape better with high heeled boots, but I dunno.

See? Floopy legs. I will probably narrow the legs on this one too. and maybe get rid of the sleeves. Someday when I'm bored and without a project. Ha!

I think of the four jumpsuits I made, the one I like best is the high necked version of this pattern in apple green polyester. This pattern seems to fit my body the best without a lot of fiddling.

I think that the high necked version ended up being the most flattering and, OH, that polyester! I never thought I’d say this but I am kind of in love with polyester double knit. It was super easy to work with and drapes like a dream.

Action girl. In purple.

2009-03-27T17:30:00.000-07:00

I used this glorious pattern...

…in a sumptuous purple ultrasuede.

For the most part, construction was exactly the same as the green one except no back darts and a different sort of collar. I added dart thingies in the front for a better fit and I used another child’s bracelet for the belt buckle. I made the belt a little narrower this time. Otherwise, it’s the samey-same.

The suede I used is a one way stretch. Stretchy fabric is usually beyond my abilities but because this was one-way, I only had problems when I sewed against the stretch. Once I stopped pulling on the fabric as it went through the machine, (duh!) it worked out much better.

The fabric did NOT want to be ironed. I discovered this too late, so there are a few iron marks where the suede melted a little. Along the outer seam there are several places with the perfect outline of an iron. I gave the melty spots a good brushing with a suede brush, and they've faded a bit, but I can’t seem to get them out. I plan to pretend they aren’t there. Sigh.

I could NOT get the sleeves sewn in properly. No matter how gently I attempted to ease them in, I ended up with enormous puffy shoulders. I looked like a member of Labelle, which is not necessarily a bad thing because those ladies are awesome, but it was not at all what I was going for. I'd show you a picture of the crazy giant puff but my camera ate it. Sigh.

Anyway, I had this crazy idea that if I trimmed off some of the round bit of the sleeve at the shoulder that the puff would go away. Like, maybe there was just too much fabric? This was a terrible idea. I tried it with one sleeve and it made it impossible to fit the curve to the armsyce. Agh!

I didn’t have enough fabric left to re-cut the sleeve I ruined, so I had to abandon the sleeves altogether. I cut out new sleeve facings from a sleeveless dress pattern and stitched those on instead. They kept flipping out, as usual, so I had to topstitch them down. They still wouldn’t stay in so I carefully stitched them down along the shoulder, dart and inner seam.

I’m kind of bummed that I couldn’t make the long sleeve work, but I think I actually like the suit better sleeveless.

Here it is, almost finished.

I thought it WAS finished but after I saw it in photos I realized that the legs were not hanging straight down. Instead, they were hanging up on my boots and doing some kind of floopidy-floppedy thing that reminded me of MC Hammer. Not good. So… I narrowed the legs and added stirrups on the bottom to keep the pant legs from jumping up over the boots.

I think its better. But I’m not sure. Here ‘tis.

I am action girl. In purple. ...and they might be even MORE MC Hammer-y than before. Also, I think I might be too short and wide to pull this off. I’ll wear it anyway, though. At least once.

…and, to keep things on a positive tip, here are some more Labelle links from youtube, just because they rule. Pipes AND costumes, people!

Lady Marmelade/Get You Somebody New

Black Holes in the Sky/Good Intentions

I won an award!

2009-03-10T20:54:00.000-07:00

Lookie! I won an award! I got it from the totally awesome Miss Elaina over at Sew Ducky. She inspires me with her attitude and she's one heck of a sewist. Plus she uses a treadle machine which makes her just about the coolest ever.

I nominate:

Demode Her costumes are just incredible!
Moxie Tonic Her Charlotte Charles inspired creations always impress.
RiAnge Creations Her stuff is gorgeous!
Kukaru She makes paper art with a mod/scooter vibe.
Plain Jane Victorian She's one heck of a sewist, but her blog focuses on remodling her Victorian home. She's amazing and can do almost anything. She carved her own porch railings which you can see here.
Smitten Kitchen Food porn at its best. I mean, seriously. Yum.
Jess Hutch Her fabric toys are super-cute and whip-smart.
Miss Celie Because, let's face it, she's good at EVERYTHING!

That's eight nominations...I know we're supposed to nominate 10 but it's really hard to single out anyone. I positively lurve every one of the blogs listed in the blogrolls over to the right there ----->

You are all superstars! Thank you for inspiring me on good days and keeping my head out of the oven on bad ones!

Here are the rules:

1. Put the logo on your blog or post

2. Nominate at least 10 blogs which show great Attitude and/or Gratitude!

3. Be sure to link to your nominees within your post.

4. Let them know that they have received this award by commenting on their blog.

5. Share the love and link to the person from whom you received your award

Funky Disco Angel

2009-03-07T17:10:00.000-08:00

I decided to make this pattern in white. I was hoping that it would come out all “Rich Hippie at Cannes.” It didn’t occur to me that I’d look more like a freaky choir girl/funky disco angel. I also conveniently forgot that white is NOT slimming. I didn’t think about the fact that white really needs a lining either.

Issues, man.

I laid it out to cut and thought, “Wow. That fabric’s kind of thin.” Then I convinced myself that I wear t-shirts all the time that are that thin and that with flesh colored spanx or a nude bodysuit underneath it would be fine. I am way too lazy to figure out how to line a jumpsuit.

The sleeves were baffling. It took me a really long time to figure out the instructions. I don’t do well with written instructions anyway, but the pictures didn’t help that much. I knew I was missing some important point. But what?

Turns out, I was looking at the instructions for both Version A and Version B. THAT’S what. Once I realized that, it was easy. I can add raglan sleeves to my list of “sewing techniques I have successfully attempted.”

The collar stumped me because I knew I didn’t want the zipper to go all the way up to the top and I wanted the collar itself to be a little shorter. My neck looks better in a mock-neck than a turtle. I stitched the zipper so that it stopped right at the neckline and I used the collar technique from Simplicity 3399.

It was a disaster. The pattern piece says to stretch the edge when you sew it in, but I ignored this because I used a non-stretchy iron on facing. The piece wasn’t quite long enough without stretching and just would not fit. I thought I could make it work but, no. By the time I realized it was a lost cause, I’d already trimmed the inner seam allowance. The only thing I could do at this point was fold the collar in and make it the neck facing.

Funny thing, I really love the way it came out. It’s a space-age bateau-neck and I think it’s great!

The fabric is just as thin as I was afraid it was going to be. Thankfully, spanx/matching underwear combo really does keep it from being completely see-through. I'll have to trim the seam allowances so that the thin-ness is a little less obvious. I have big white stripes down my back and sides where the fabric overlaps.

Here's the completed suit.

I guess, with these curves, I’ll never look like a rich hippie at Cannes…I’m definitely more of a funky disco angel. But I think its okay. This suit really makes a statement. It says, “HEY! I’m WEARING a WHITE JUMPSUIT!” I’m okay with that.

Apple Green Jumpsuit

2009-02-27T07:28:00.000-08:00

So, yeah, remember how I’m in love with jumpsuits?

I made one out of apple-green polyester knit using this pattern.

I figured that I would have some fit issues. The pattern’s hip measurement is a little narrower than my hips. To adjust for that, I made the outer seam allowances a little narrower in the hip area.

My waist isn’t that small but it is pretty high and I have a rather long torso. I decided not to do a high-waist adjustment because I thought that the torso would end up too short. I’m glad I didn’t as the torso is just barely long enough. There is no “camel” effect, but if I’d shortened it at all, it would have been all camel - all the time. Yikes.

I ended up with too much extra fabric between the boobs and the hips. (Was this because I couldn’t adjust for the waist?) It was looking pretty lumpy in the front around the zipper and there was no obvious waistline. I was not digging it at all.

I decided to try adding some double-dart-thingies on either side of the zipper. I eyeballed where the darts should go and pinned them in. I tried on the suit and moved the pins around until the darts seemed even and straight. Then I took it off, checked my work, and stitched them in. It worked! It fits so much better now. The lumpiness under my boobs is completely gone and the suit as a whole is rather sleek, actually.

The collar was a bit of a pain. It needs to be exactly the same height on either side of the zipper and the points need to be precise. The poly didn’t really want to be ironed so it was really difficult to make it look even and crisp. Instead, it came out kind of wrinkly and bendy but I don’t think it’s too noticeable.

I knew I needed to add a belt to camouflage my belly but I wasn’t sure what to do. I thought, at first, about wearing a wide store-bought belt in a complimentary color at the hip line. I experimented with a few different ideas but eventually decided that a contrast line at my hip just made my hips look wider and didn’t really do anything to camouflage the beer gut.

I decided to make a self-belt with a white ring closure in the front. It was really hard to find a white ring that was the right size. The internet was useless. Eventually I found a child’s white bangle bracelet at Claire’s that was just perfect.

Leaving the belt un-attached didn't really work. It kept riding up and sliding around. After some trial and error, I attached the belt to the suit by cutting it down to the right length and stitching it into the seams at the side.

Here is the finished jumpsuit. I think it came out really well.

Yay!

Red One

2009-02-14T15:04:00.001-08:00

This poor pattern.

I suspect it was someone’s hated Home Ec project from the way each piece was haphazardly cut out. Many of the notches were cut off and the cut-lines were missing (or cut crookedly) on several pieces. Plus, it was shoved back into the envelope without any care. The pieces were so crumpled that not even gentle ironing could get them to completely flatten out. The main piece was so brittle that it tore several times (in the darts!) while I was trying to pin it.

Does anyone know a good way to repair torn patterns? I’m tempted to use cellophane tape, but I’m a little afraid. Any advice will be gratefully accepted.

It’s too bad that someone so obviously hated this pattern cos I love it!!! I used leftover red broadcloth from this project. Unfortunately I didn’t have enough for the jacket, but I wish I had. The jacket is too cool!

There is only one main piece for the dress and two more small pieces for the facings. It really couldn’t be any easier to cut and assemble (which makes me wonder why it took, like, 5 hours from start to finish. I think I’m out of practice.) The only major adjustment I made was to shorten the bodice to accommodate my weirdly high waist. I also shortened the skirt a bit as mid-calf doesn’t look that great on my short stubby legs.

For some reason, there is no facing piece included for the armscye. The pattern instructs you to make one out of bias tape. Instead, I cut a strip of fabric about an inch wide. It worked out okay, but not great. The facing keep flipping out flat under my armpit. Not enough to come out of the hole, but enough to rub uncomfortably.

I was afraid of the collar at first, but it worked out very well. I’ve heard horror stories about making collars, so I’m glad this one was easy to attach. I might even be brave enough to try a making a shirtwaist now. Although, the thought of making a shirtwaists' worth of buttonholes still horrifies me.

My one regret is the fusible interfacing I used around the neck. It’s entirely too heavy and I had a heck of a time getting the neck facing to lie down. I eventually had to topstitch it flat.

The zipper is, as usual, a nightmare. I still don’t quite have the hang of zipper installation. The good news, though, is that I used my new Viking double-sided zipper foot for the first time and it’s a dream and a half. It’s got a clip on each side so you can just snap it in place and its reversible, and can be turned to accommodate whichever direction you need to sew.

Here's a picture of the finished dress. I like!

My Current Obsession

2009-01-28T11:49:00.000-08:00

…is jumpsuits. Really. I believe that jumpsuits are the future. Make them well and let them lead the way. Or something.

Last year on NYE I was getting ready to go to a party and split my dress. It was a beautiful pale blue 60s lace cocktail dress that my husband got me for Christmas. It split right up the back seam when I tried to zip it up. I have a lot of stuff in my closet but that night ALL of my nice cocktail party clothes were suddenly and unexpectedly too small. All that holiday eating had completely kicked (and increased) my fat ass.

It was horrible and sad and it made me really angry. Sooo… I did what any other spunky, and occasionally crazed, girl who was suddenly too fat for her all clothes would do. I put on my giant fluffy bunny suit and went out anyway. It made me feel a lot better.

This past New Years Eve, I wore my bunny suit again. It occurred to me, as I was swaying drunkenly on my barstool just after midnight, that perhaps bunny suits are the answer to all life’s clothing dilemmas. One zip and you're in. Fat or thin it hides all figure flaws.

But you can’t wear a bunny suit every day. It's too hot and fluffy. No. There has to be another way. Then it occured to me: What is a bunny suit if not a jumpsuit made cuddly? Jumpsuits are the answer.

Way back in 1959, designer and writer Anne Fogarty was extolling the wonders of the jumpsuit as casual wear in her book "Wife Dressing". In the early 60s designer Pauline Trigere introduced jumpsuits as a wardrobe staple. Therefore, the jumpsuit fits nicely into my late-50s early-60s fashion obsession. Besides, if you’ve ever watched the Cathy Gale/Emma Peel years of the Avengers, you know how awesome a jumpsuit can be. I am inspired.

Of course, I don’t have a 16 inch waist like Mrs. Fogarty. I’m not even 1% as hot as Honor Blackman or Diana Rigg and, I think, I’m probably 10 (20?) years older than any of them were in their jumpsuit days. Nonetheless. I am in love with the jumpsuit.

Besides, if Sew Ducky can make and wear skants without shame, the field of extraordinary clothing choices is now wide open. (I love the skants, by the way, Miss Ducky. Really, truly.)

Here are three patterns I picked up recently. They will be made. And worn.

New Patterns

2009-01-19T19:32:00.000-08:00

Love Love Love. I believe these came from The Hem Line. She has goood stuff.

This one should be super easy. Its got wide kimono sleeves to accomodate my big 'ol peasant arms. Loving the obi belt to boot!

Another one that should be easy. It caught my eye because the collar in the view with the low neck is a dickey. Weird. Not sure how that's gonna work. On the up-side, my closet doesn't have nearly enough day dresses with plunging necklines.

I snapped this one up because I looove the collar and yoked neckline. Oops! Except it turns out that its not really a yoked neck. That's just piping. Also it appears that the collar is tacked down IN the piping. Not sure thats gonna work out. It may be beyond my meager skill.

Two Tone Red & Leopard Jumper

2009-01-19T19:08:00.001-08:00

Look! I sewed!

I STILL had this big chunk of leopard baby-wale corduroy leftover from the five yards (or was it six?) I got from fabric.com. I’ve managed to get two dresses, a skirt and a pair of (dubious) trousers out of it, so I should be satisfied. But, I hate leftovers.

I could shove the leftover bits in the bottom of the stash box and use a bit here and a bit there for trim, like on the sleeves and collar of a coat, maybe. But, it’s much more fun and challenging to try and use it all up.

I wanted to make a shorts jumper by combining these two patterns.

There was enough for the pinafore and straps, but there wasn’t quite enough to cut out shorts. Unfortunately, by the time I figured out that shorts weren't going to happen I’d already cut out the bib and straps. Ugh!

For a split second I thought about making a mini-skirt jumper but I think I might be teensy bit too old to be rockin’ a mini. Luckily, I had several yards of red broadcloth lying around from this project that didn’t happen. So, a two toned red and leopard jumper was the answer.

I changed the line of the bib somewhat, but I’m not sure it was the best idea ever. I realize now that the previous “two pointed” bib will lie flat under the boobage while this new one will likely fold over and look funny after a little wear. I hope not, but since the bib doesn't have much stiffening inside, it might go that way.

I was worried about the red broadcloth and leopard corduroy not really working together as they are both kind of intense. In order to pull it all together, I decided to use the appliqués that came with the pattern. I have to admit that the poodles were enticing, due to the extreme kitch factor. But I don’t really want the finished item to look like a costume.

I went with the hearts. I cut out three sizes in leopard and three sizes (just slightly smaller) in red. Without any real idea of how to attach them and keep them from fraying, I ironed some fusible interfacing onto the back of the fabric before I cut them out. Hopefully, this will prevent the edges from raveling.

To attach them to the skirt, I first sewed around the appliqué about 1/4 inch from the edge. Then, using the button hole stitch on my machine I sewed over the raw edge. The button hole stitch is wide enough that it looks like machine embroidery, which I suppose it is, really. Hopefully it’ll keep the appliqué on tight and prevent raveling.

Because I’ve used this jumper pattern so many times before, it went together quick & easy. (Despite the horrific zipper, as usual) I do think that the color choices are rather bold and I hope that I’m brave enough to wear it. Here’s the finished product.

Some Random Junk and Proof that Sewing is Hard

2008-12-29T08:49:00.001-08:00

I pretty much totally wussed out on Nopantesmber Week 4.

Monday

Tuesday

...and that's it. On Sunday (the one before xmas. I'm a little late in posting.) I wore a skirt that I made. We went to Dickens Fair.

Here's me.

I didn't use a pattern. I simply folded my fabric in half and seamed the ends together. Then I gathered one of the selvage ends and bunged it onto a piece of elastic. Instead of trimming the hem to the right length, I folded over the bottom end and stitched it in place. Because I made no cuts, I can use the fabric again by simply ripping out the stitching and giving it a good ironing.

Here is the husband who, I must say, does look rather dapper. I didn't make anything he's wearing. He's just cute and I like to show him off.

I got pretty lucky. The husband not only doesn't mind dressing up and going to these silly costume events that I love so much, he actually seems to enjoy it. Soo.... I joined the Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild. They put on several costume events during the year ranging from SciFi events to Tudor gatherings and everything in between.

My interest lies mainly in the mid-twentieth century, but it seems like GBACG is a lot more welcoming and dork-positive than, say, the Art Deco Society. GBACG also puts on mid-century & art deco era events AND since there is some cross-over with the two organizations, I'll still be able to attend some ADS events using my GBACG membership discount. Win/Win!

- - -

Here are some patterns I picked up lately in the thrift stores.

This 1970s dress could either be cute, or end up looking like a maternity dress but, at 69 cents, it was hard to pass up.

I realize this is a horrid 80s pattern, but I thought it might work well for a Gatsby dress. We shall see.

- - -

...AND NOW: Proof that sewing is hard. Those who faint easily, have heart conditions, or are in any way prone to hysteria may want to turn away from the computer. The following image is rather graphic...

Yes. That is a mouth. My mouth. Notice the jaggedy missing piece of tooth in the front there? I broke my tooth sewing.

I was attempting to turn a belt right side out and it was stuck. No amount of pulling, tugging, rubbing the fabric between my palms or stabbing at it with a chopstick seemed to work. So I took a bit of the fabric between my teeth and pulled. The fabric stayed stuck and slipped out from between my teeth which then snapped together with enough force to send the cap on the end of my tooth flying. Where it landed, no one knows.

This happened on Saturday night, of course. I had a small tantrum and went to bed, skipping out on various meetings with friends that I'd planned. (Sorry guys!) I didn't speak or eat until about 2pm on Sunday because I was so mad/ashamed/embarrassed. I'm getting it fixed today, thank goodness.

Will I tug at fabric with my teeth again? Probably not...maybe...

Remember kids! Sewing IS hard!

Nopantsember Week 3

2008-12-20T18:05:00.000-08:00

This week was raining and cold. Not really skirt weather but thanks to a stockpile of sweaters I didn't know I had, lots of layers, and the magic of tall boots, I managed to stay warm. I made the Sat night dress and the skirts I wore on Sun, Tues, Wed, Thu and Fri night.

Next week I'm only working three days and then I'm taking the week between Xmas and NYE off. I'll still post the pictures at the end of each week, just don't expect a lot of them. I will wear skirts if I go out, but if I'm just lounging at home or running errands it will be jeans.

Nopantsember Week 2

2008-12-12T20:07:00.000-08:00

I survived a week of wearing a skirt each day. This week I even wore stuff I made (M, Th, F). Yay! I learned some stuff.

1. I really should consider at least trying to do something with my hair every day. Its scraggly.

2. Flat shoes, while comfortable, don't look all that great with skirts on someone with short legs like mine. I may want to invest in some mid/kitten heeled shoes.

3. The mid-calf skirt length is best with heels OR I maybe might want to wear skirts that are just below the knee instead. I am short.

Here's the damn slideshow.

In other news.

I cut out a dress this evening! Woooo! It seems like its going to be hard. Its got a lot of pattern pieces and I am a girl with very little patience. Plus its a vintage repro pattern and they always seem to fit me strangely. I hope it works. Can't wait to start working on it but I have no time this weekend, sigh.

Nopantsember is Killing Me.

2008-12-09T11:15:00.000-08:00

1. Not wearing pants in December is hard. Its cold. I don't have enough tights or sweaters or WARM SHOES. I know its only fogtown. I realize I'd be SO much colder and more miserable if I lived somewhere with actual snow. But its all relative isn't it?

2. I tend to be highly self-critical anyway, but I've discovered that posting these crappy pictures of my crappy outfits everyday is not as inspiring as I'd hoped. Its kind of the opposite. If I don't have enough time to work on an outfit till I get it right, I see every little mistake in the photo and it kind of drives me nuts.

3. I think that posting all this other junk is diluting the purpose of the blog, which was to document sewing projects.

I'm not giving up completely. I'm going to keep going with the Nopantsember project, but I'm not going to post every day. I'll post a slideshow and comment at the end of the week instead.

Expect to see an actual sewing related post sometime soon. Before the end of the month, at least.